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  1. #1
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    140 or 150 up Front

    Need some advice

    I'm looking at the new talas 2011 for my SL. I'm currently running a 650B in front with a 2008 talas 140, I love the handling and am going to keep the 650b in front, 26 in rear.

    Here's my delema, I recently sold my 2008 talas 140 and am going to replace it with either another 140 or try a 150 talas 2011 (to get full travel).

    If I get a 150 it will be quite slack and slow handling but great for the down hill single track stuff. Plus the short travel setting will give me 120mm or 4.74 inches of travel plus the additional 3/4" hight from the 650 wheel making it almost the same geo as the rear. This would be good for the technical stuff and the up hills. The best of both worlds I think. Or just keep the same travel as before (140) but a newer version of fork.

    I like to push the hadling boundries of my bike, but if I choose the 150 and it dosn't work with the 650 in front, I'm out a lot of cash.

    What do you guys think?

    Mojo
    Last edited by Mojo Man; 05-02-2010 at 06:28 PM.

  2. #2
    ajm
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    My choice would be the 2011 Talas 150-120, or the 2010 Talas 150-130-110. Small amount of added weight from the Float, but great versatility. I have ridden the Mojo in every travel position from 110-150 mm and like the whole range. Ibis says the frame is designed around 130-150 forks, but even in 110-120 the Mojo is quick and centered. 120 is a great setting for a quick handling, racy XC feel to the Mojo. On the other hand, when trail riding more aggressive or steeper terrain, the Mojo is simply amazing in 150 fork travel!! Brings it to a 68.6 degree HTA and the bike just rocks when descending stuff. 140 of travel is nice too, but I prefer the extra travel and slacker angle that 150 gives you on the Mojo.

  3. #3
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    Quote Originally Posted by ajm
    My choice would be the 2011 Talas 150-120, or the 2010 Talas 150-130-110. Small amount of added weight from the Float, but great versatility. I have ridden the Mojo in every travel position from 110-150 mm and like the whole range. Ibis says the frame is designed around 130-150 forks, but even in 110-120 the Mojo is quick and centered. 120 is a great setting for a quick handling, racy XC feel to the Mojo. On the other hand, when trail riding more aggressive or steeper terrain, the Mojo is simply amazing in 150 fork travel!! Brings it to a 68.6 degree HTA and the bike just rocks when descending stuff. 140 of travel is nice too, but I prefer the extra travel and slacker angle that 150 gives you on the Mojo.
    Yes that makes scense, but what I'm worried about is the additional 3/4" front height from running a 650B.

    Another way I've been looking at it is a longer travel fork allows you to run additional sag up front which would bring the geo. back to normal when running a 150 with a 650B in front. But I'm not sure of my hunch without testing.

    I'd like to run a 150 with my 650 up front but without testing it's a gamble.

    Please can someone make up my mind

    Mojo

  4. #4
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mojo Man
    Yes that makes scense, but what I'm worried about is the additional 3/4" front height from running a 650B.

    Another way I've been looking at it is a longer travel fork allows you to run additional sag up front which would bring the geo. back to normal when running a 150 with a 650B in front. But I'm not sure of my hunch without testing.

    I'd like to run a 150 with my 650 up front but without testing it's a gamble.

    Please can someone make up my mind

    Mojo
    At 130mm travel a front only 650b steers about the same as a 26" front with 140mm. At 150mm travel with 650b front only it would be pretty slack steering for tight trail but pretty nice for downhills and very rocky trail.

  5. #5
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    If I was running 650B up front, I would definitely worry about having only 150 and 120 options. I have Talas 140-120-100 and I do not like how the bike handles at 120, except up steepish climbs. Front end is too weighted. The bigger front wheel and stack height adjustments would help with that, but it's an expensive gamble. If I were you I'd be looking at the 2010 Talas 150-130-110 for more options.

  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by derby
    At 130mm travel a front only 650b steers about the same as a 26" front with 140mm. At 150mm travel with 650b front only it would be pretty slack steering for tight trail but pretty nice for downhills and very rocky trail.
    If I ran the 150 with 10mm of additional sag wouldn't the geo be like a 140 but with more plushness due to the additional sag?

    Mojo
    Last edited by Mojo Man; 05-02-2010 at 06:31 PM.

  7. #7
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    Mojo, I had a good 40km ride today on my Mojo SL with the new Cobalts. I was running a heavier wheelset, around a pound heavier, and the whole bike was feeling more like a AM bike instead of a XC or a trail bike, so running the Float 150 15QR was spot on while riding the heavier wheelset, but since I got 800g off with the Cobalts and another parts like pedals and brakeset (I kept the same tires though), the whole bike has changed. Maybe it's the almost 2 pounds off, but no longer the bike kept the front onground and started to lift on the steep climbs. Tomorrow I set the Float at 140 and go ride it and see what it's like. Maybe I even try it at 130mm. Let's see.

    Well, so if you gonna run XC setup, I advise you to go 130 or 140. If you plan to go bigger, go 140 or 150. Whish I had the new TALAS that goes from 150 to 120 in one click. That would solve my problem beautifully.

    And two things on the Cobalts: they are rock stiff, but are they SLOW. Really, I'll get the bike back to the LBS and ask them to check on the rear hub. No wheel is supposed to hold back like that, but they are.
    Last edited by Black RONIN; 05-02-2010 at 03:43 PM.

  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mojo Man
    If I ran the 150 with 10mm of additional sag wouldn't the geo be like a 140 but with more plushness do to the additional sag?

    Mojo
    I'm running mine with a bigger sag. It dives a bit more, but I like my forks more on plush side. Anyway, while riding flats and downhills it is just fine with the extra sag, but you have to lean a bit more forward while climbing seated anyway.

  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by Black RONIN
    Mojo, I had a good 40km ride today on my Mojo SL with the new Cobalts. I was running a heavier wheelset, around a pound heavier, and the whole bike was feeling more like a AM bike instead of a XC or a trail bike, so running the Float 150 15QR was spot on while riding the heavier wheelset, but since I got 800g off with the Cobalts and another parts like pedals and brakeset (I kept the same tires though), the whole bike has changed. Maybe it's the almost 2 pounds off, but no longer the bike kept the front onground and started to lift on the steep climbs. Tomorrow I set the Float at 140 and go ride it and see what it's like. Maybe I even try it at 130mm. Let's see.

    Well, so if you gonna run XC setup, I advise you to go 130 or 140. If you plan to go bigger, go 140 or 150. Whish I had the new TALAS that goes from 150 to 120 in one click. That would solve my problem beautifully.

    And two things on the Cobalts: they are rock stiff, but are they SLOW. Really, I'll get the bike back to the LBS and ask them to check on the rear hub. No wheel is supposed to hold back like that, but they are.
    Your set up if a lot differant than mine. I'm running a 650b up front which raises the front end 3/4" (19mm).

    If I were running a typical 26'er upfront, it would be a no brainer, 150mm all the way.

    Mojo

  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by getbusyliving
    If I was running 650B up front, I would definitely worry about having only 150 and 120 options. I have Talas 140-120-100 and I do not like how the bike handles at 120, except up steepish climbs. Front end is too weighted. The bigger front wheel and stack height adjustments would help with that, but it's an expensive gamble. If I were you I'd be looking at the 2010 Talas 150-130-110 for more options.
    I found myself never using the middle setting on my previous 2008 140 model, so the 2011 with a 120/150, or a 110/140 makes more sence to me.

    Mojo

  11. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mojo Man
    Your set up if a lot differant than mine. I'm running a 650b up front which raises the front end 3/4" (19mm).

    If I were running a typical 26'er upfront, it would be a no brainer, 150mm all the way.

    Mojo
    Sorry, I totally missed that. I really don't know how much slacker the angles would be on a 650B, but I wonder that on a 150mm it would be like on 170-180mm? Guess I read somewhere about it, I'll try to remember and post it here as a link if I find it.
    Last edited by Black RONIN; 05-02-2010 at 09:15 PM.

  12. #12
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    quick and dirty

    test idea

    I think the 150 with a 650 front is a risk and you should see what it's going to feel like before you spend the $.

    Without borrowing a 150 fork (best) here's a way you could experience the head angle and it's effect on the steering.

    Put a smaller rear tire on to lower the rear 10 mm. Raise your bar / stem 10 mm.

    The steering will feel about like that... Your center of gravity / BB height is going to be lower than it would in reality, so try to factor that into your decision. You could raise the seat to see what that's going to feel like, but pedaling will be overextended.

    At least the steering geometry will be close and it should take 20 minutes to try..

    H

  13. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mojo Man
    Your set up if a lot differant than mine. I'm running a 650b up front which raises the front end 3/4" (19mm).

    If I were running a typical 26'er upfront, it would be a no brainer, 150mm all the way.

    Mojo
    In fact 650b raises the axle only 1/2 inch (12 - 13mm) using the same width tires and rims.

    If going 650b front AND rear with the same fork and sag steering trail is "slacker" by 4%, almost not noticeable even on on smooth pavement. Using 650b front only with the same fork steering trail increases about 10% due to the slacker frame angles and greater front wheel radius. Adding 10mm fork travel (and a2c) with no change in wheel wheel adds about 4% steering trail. (all numbers are rounded up). 150mm travel with 650b front only adds close to14% steering trail, very noticeable, the difference of simply extending the fork a2c about 30mm with the same wheel.

  14. #14
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    Thanks everyone for your replys. I'm unable to do any testing because I sold my older 140's and don't know of anyone with a 150 (my area is all moving on the 29 band wagon,very little 26'er left).

    I like a slacker and taller steering height/position but a 150 would be too much of a gamble. At this time I think I will play it safe and stick with the tried & true 140.

    Mojo
    Last edited by Mojo Man; 05-03-2010 at 07:29 AM.

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