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  1. #1
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    25 ft. Ladder Gap





    Only a 2 ft. lip but 7th gear pinned. I'm glad it lasted long enough for me to hit it before the haters destroy it. =P
    Last edited by rat7761; 08-21-2011 at 01:12 AM.

  2. #2
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    On a side note, looking forward to hitting this sick drop at Timberline in October. It has already been guinea pigged successfully.

  3. #3
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    ...mo' ono d'an one chicken-yakitori stick from Hamura's...

    and tell Jason you need plenty "special-kine nickels" next time you see him.

  4. #4
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    Sessums went big!

  5. #5
    slaving away in paradise
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    Looks like the headset was too big lol:

    This from Intense's website:

    Some observations on the One Point Five interface standard:
    1. The One Point Five standard defines the diameter and tolerance for the bore in the head tube – the standard specifically does not cover the diameter of the headset cups – to quote from the standard drawing, ”HS CUP OD NOT SPECIFIED”. The diameter specified for the head tube is 1.9516” – 1.9532” (49.57mm – 49.61mm).
    2. As manufacturers are free to define their own requirements for the cup OD, both the requirements and the actual parts tend to vary. Cane Creek specifies an OD of 1.9567” – 1.9579” (49.70mm – 49.73mm). We have had experience with two Cane Creek Double Xc Flush headsets causing the head tube to crack on the 6.6. These cups measured 1.9579” to 1.9585” (up to .0006” over Cane Creek’s high limit tolerance). It should also be noted that the Cane Creek is a “deep” headset (20mm vs. 10mm insertion depth).
    3. Here at Intense, we tend to use the FSA Orbit Z 1.5R in this application. Although the FSA drawing allows the OD of the cups to be 1.9547” to 1.9587” (49.65mm – 49.75mm), the units we have measured run 1.9545” – 1.9565”. The insertion depth of these cups is 10mm. We have had no problems in using this head set.
    4. Standard engineering practice for a locational press fit for this diameter part is to have .0004” to .0020” interference. While the actual size of the FSA sets as compared to the 1.5 Standard head tube diameter yields an interference of .0013” - .0049”, the larger Cane Creek sets come in at .0047” - .0069”. We are very concerned that the additional interference is causing undue stress in the head tube material.
    5. Due to the above concerns, Intense Cycles strongly recommends against using any headset with an OD above 1.9565”. This specifically refers to the Cane Creek Double X series, as well as any other head set creating an interference of .0050 or larger.

    Phil Stromg
    Intense Engineer


    Then they come out with this:

    Mitch,
    The 6.6 frame used to have an issue with the Cane Creek Double X series
    headsets back when the frame was introduced in late 2005. This issue has
    been resolved and you will have no problem running their headsets on our
    frames. The Socom headtube is different than the 6.6. Nonetheless, there
    will be no problem running the Cane Creek headset on the Socom frame.

    Cheers,
    Andrew VanZuyen
    I guess it depends on the age of that frame?

  6. #6
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    lol thought you didnt like building with wood...sweet. been awhile since ive been up there..
    Respect the Aina....Aloha

  7. #7
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    Haha, yeah it's not my first choice because it's easy for the haters to destroy it but the lip stays consistent and doesn't wear down from the weather. Been digging a lot up there. The trail is really neglected. Racing on Oahu every month gives me inspiration too. The scene is happening up there.






  8. #8
    slaving away in paradise
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    Nice job Riley,
    That first turn was always a bit too off camber to take at high speed. I hope you built that berm
    up with lots of rocks. Every time I put something in there the first big flood would destroy it (there's
    a lot of water coming down that little hill there).

    On that last ladder there...good luck. I found a couple things I'd do different on that one (it's
    the third or forth one I know about there), drive some huge stakes in the ground on all four corners
    to prevent anyone from pulling it out, thru-bolt the rungs on to prevent mx knobby's from ripping
    the rungs out of the wood. I tried nails, and 3" wood screws and they still got ripped out.

    So many things I've learned from trial and error on that trail and living here in BC learning
    from the best. Although, I hear the lanai and the drop on the bamboo sector is still there
    after all this time lol. There's a huge stash of lumber between the step-up (at the bottom
    and the road). If you're looking at the step-up, turn right, walk into the culdesac in the trees
    and on the right side of it there's a little less growth, walk through there toward the road about
    100' and you're there. Have fun and don't get caught!

  9. #9
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    Nice job..gotta get up there sooooon
    Respect the Aina....Aloha

  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by kauaibullit View Post
    Nice job Riley,
    That first turn was always a bit too off camber to take at high speed. I hope you built that berm
    up with lots of rocks. Every time I put something in there the first big flood would destroy it (there's
    a lot of water coming down that little hill there).

    On that last ladder there...good luck. I found a couple things I'd do different on that one (it's
    the third or forth one I know about there), drive some huge stakes in the ground on all four corners
    to prevent anyone from pulling it out, thru-bolt the rungs on to prevent mx knobby's from ripping
    the rungs out of the wood. I tried nails, and 3" wood screws and they still got ripped out.

    So many things I've learned from trial and error on that trail and living here in BC learning
    from the best. Although, I hear the lanai and the drop on the bamboo sector is still there
    after all this time lol. There's a huge stash of lumber between the step-up (at the bottom
    and the road). If you're looking at the step-up, turn right, walk into the culdesac in the trees
    and on the right side of it there's a little less growth, walk through there toward the road about
    100' and you're there. Have fun and don't get caught!
    I'm no trail builder by any means so thanks for the tips. I try as best as I can to make bypass lines around the stuff for guys who don't want to hit them. Lugging water to pack the stuff down is one of the biggest chores.

  11. #11
    slaving away in paradise
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    Quote Originally Posted by rat7761 View Post
    I'm no trail builder by any means so thanks for the tips. I try as best as I can to make bypass lines around the stuff for guys who don't want to hit them. Lugging water to pack the stuff down is one of the biggest chores.
    I found the main issues I had on that trail was:
    -rain and runoff. plan your drainage, go up during rains...which also is a good time to dig...and
    see how the water is flowing and where it pools.

    -nazis There's only a few hunters that hate/hated us, most of them didn't care, a few only cared
    if we were up there on weekends and holidays when they could hunt. For the nazis, you have
    to make your features so that they're easily rebuildable (like the river gap) or really hard to tear
    up/out. I built the lanai pretty solid, but I overlooked the landing. The second or third week it
    was up the tranny got torn out (I almost died lol).

    -getting water. I only built dirt features during the rain (when your actions will be best unseen)
    and right after rains.

    Keep it up, I can't wait to get back for a visit and sample what you're done.

  12. #12
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    nice!

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