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  1. #1301
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    Quote Originally Posted by cytoe View Post
    Nice!!

    Dolomites, is that in Italy? Was it a biking trip??

  2. #1302
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    Quote Originally Posted by Apolonios View Post
    Nice!!

    Dolomites, is that in Italy? Was it a biking trip??
    Yes. Just got back. Here's the outfit I went with: Dolomighty | Big Mountain Bike Adventures. The trip was sooooo good. I took my bike and it ate it up. The trails were steep, so I mostly used Gravity mode.

  3. #1303
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    Uff the envy is hard to contain, haha

    How many days??

  4. #1304
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    Quote Originally Posted by Apolonios View Post
    Uff the envy is hard to contain, haha

    How many days??
    6 days of riding. Lots of eating and drinking

  5. #1305
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    That is a killer picture! Can we repost that on social media?

  6. #1306
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    Quote Originally Posted by cytoe View Post
    6 days of riding. Lots of eating and drinking
    The radation color makes the GG standout. lol

    Guerilla Gravity Megatrail. Any Thoughts?-img_20170903_090803.jpg

    Guerilla Gravity Megatrail. Any Thoughts?-img_094803.jpg

  7. #1307
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    Quote Originally Posted by mtg7aa View Post
    That is a killer picture! Can we repost that on social media?
    sure. I have more if you want

    Guerilla Gravity Megatrail. Any Thoughts?-img_094815.jpg
    Guerilla Gravity Megatrail. Any Thoughts?-img_130630.jpg
    Guerilla Gravity Megatrail. Any Thoughts?-pano_092824.jpg

  8. #1308
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    Quote Originally Posted by cytoe View Post
    sure. I have more if you want

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    Do you have riding pics too?

  9. #1309
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    Quote Originally Posted by stripes View Post
    Do you have riding pics too?
    There was another Colorado rider with a huge camera taking a bunch of riding pics...I'll post some up when I get them

  10. #1310
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    If anyone want to sell Megatrail V2 in M, I will consider offer for frame.
    Thanks

  11. #1311
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    So I did some rides with the -1 works headset in the bike as both a megatrail 170mm and 160mm and as a shred dogg 160mm.

    And I still like the shred dogg in gravity mode the best. I've tried trail mode in all sorts of versions, and I really don't care for it, except for pedaling uphill. The shred dogg in gravity mode is fun enough on the downs but still pedalable up.

    I will tell you I'm glad I put in the -1 headset but it's not a deal breaker to not have it. But for me, the bike feels better with it. Not just the head angle but I like how it lowers the bike a bit more.

    For the megatrail, it gets it more of a DH like feel with the -1 headset, which is great at the parks, but for me it would be overkill for trail riding. The bike felt both good with the -1 headset with both a 160mm and 170mm fork. Trail mode for the megatrail with the -1 headset feels better with the 160mm fork than the 170mm fork.

    With the 170mm fork, trail mode doesn't feel too tall like it did before, but it still feels twitchy to me. I guess it's because I've been riding a DH bike most of the summer.

    So fortunately, it's an easy switch to get the bike back to a -1 headset and in gravity mode, and if anyone has any other questions, lemme know because I've tried quite a few iterations of this awesome bike, no matter how you like it. It's ridiculously versatile, and for me, it worked great as a DH bike at the beginning of the summer and we will see how it works as a trail bike for me over the non DH season.

  12. #1312
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    Quote Originally Posted by stripes View Post
    So I did some rides with the -1 works headset in the bike as both a megatrail 170mm and 160mm and as a shred dogg 160mm.

    And I still like the shred dogg in gravity mode the best. I've tried trail mode in all sorts of versions, and I really don't care for it, except for pedaling uphill. The shred dogg in gravity mode is fun enough on the downs but still pedalable up.

    I will tell you I'm glad I put in the -1 headset but it's not a deal breaker to not have it. But for me, the bike feels better with it. Not just the head angle but I like how it lowers the bike a bit more.

    For the megatrail, it gets it more of a DH like feel with the -1 headset, which is great at the parks, but for me it would be overkill for trail riding. The bike felt both good with the -1 headset with both a 160mm and 170mm fork. Trail mode for the megatrail with the -1 headset feels better with the 160mm fork than the 170mm fork.

    With the 170mm fork, trail mode doesn't feel too tall like it did before, but it still feels twitchy to me. I guess it's because I've been riding a DH bike most of the summer.

    So fortunately, it's an easy switch to get the bike back to a -1 headset and in gravity mode, and if anyone has any other questions, lemme know because I've tried quite a few iterations of this awesome bike, no matter how you like it. It's ridiculously versatile, and for me, it worked great as a DH bike at the beginning of the summer and we will see how it works as a trail bike for me over the non DH season.

    Did you end up keeping the headset?

    Do you have to press-fit the headset or does it use some other method of installation??

  13. #1313
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    I had never heard of this bike before today, and it seems awesome. If I had known about it last week, it would have made my decision a little harder.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

  14. #1314
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    Guerilla Gravity Megatrail. Any Thoughts?

    Quote Originally Posted by Apolonios View Post
    Did you end up keeping the headset?

    Do you have to press-fit the headset or does it use some other method of installation??
    Yep still have it. I like the lower, slacker angles. Not sure what you mean by press fit it.

    Here is what I ordered:

    http://www.workscomponents.co.uk/10-...tube-216-p.asp

  15. #1315
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    Quote Originally Posted by stripes View Post
    So I did some rides with the -1 works headset in the bike as both a megatrail 170mm and 160mm and as a shred dogg 160mm.

    And I still like the shred dogg in gravity mode the best. I've tried trail mode in all sorts of versions, and I really don't care for it, except for pedaling uphill. The shred dogg in gravity mode is fun enough on the downs but still pedalable up.

    I will tell you I'm glad I put in the -1 headset but it's not a deal breaker to not have it. But for me, the bike feels better with it. Not just the head angle but I like how it lowers the bike a bit more.

    For the megatrail, it gets it more of a DH like feel with the -1 headset, which is great at the parks, but for me it would be overkill for trail riding. The bike felt both good with the -1 headset with both a 160mm and 170mm fork. Trail mode for the megatrail with the -1 headset feels better with the 160mm fork than the 170mm fork.

    With the 170mm fork, trail mode doesn't feel too tall like it did before, but it still feels twitchy to me. I guess it's because I've been riding a DH bike most of the summer.

    So fortunately, it's an easy switch to get the bike back to a -1 headset and in gravity mode, and if anyone has any other questions, lemme know because I've tried quite a few iterations of this awesome bike, no matter how you like it. It's ridiculously versatile, and for me, it worked great as a DH bike at the beginning of the summer and we will see how it works as a trail bike for me over the non DH season.
    I have the Shred Dogg, I haven't even began messing with putting in "gravity mode". I have to climb for all my fun around here so just never thought about messing with it. Can you tell a big difference when climbing? First thing, I am not a fast climber, never going to win a XC race, never the first in my group to the top. Not that I am out of shape (okay maybe a little) but I just get zero joy out of pushing myself to the point of exhaustion before I get to go downhill. For a slow climber like me will I even tell the difference in the two modes and do you recommend just putting it in Gravity all the time??

  16. #1316
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    Quote Originally Posted by Apolonios View Post
    Did you end up keeping the headset?

    Do you have to press-fit the headset or does it use some other method of installation??
    Yes...It's press fit just like whatever headset you have now. Works headsets are simple to install though and less finicky than anglesets or other gimble based setups.

    I have an angleset laying around that I may try out at some point...I'm pretty stoked on the bike in SS gravity mode with a 160mm fork though so it may be a while :-)

  17. #1317
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    Quote Originally Posted by JHart94949 View Post
    I have the Shred Dogg, I haven't even began messing with putting in "gravity mode". I have to climb for all my fun around here so just never thought about messing with it. Can you tell a big difference when climbing? First thing, I am not a fast climber, never going to win a XC race, never the first in my group to the top. Not that I am out of shape (okay maybe a little) but I just get zero joy out of pushing myself to the point of exhaustion before I get to go downhill. For a slow climber like me will I even tell the difference in the two modes and do you recommend just putting it in Gravity all the time??
    I ride in gravity mode all the time. The biggest reason I ever put the V1 MT in trail mode was for climbing (for the steeper st angle) and the MT 2 has a steeper seat tube angle in gravity mode than the V1 in trail so I'm covered.

    I'm not in a huge hurry uphill either but I never feel the need to mess with shock settings for climbs. I climb up in gravity mode with my dh shock and fork setup and I never feel like the bike is holding me back. It's surprisingly efficient feeling even out of the saddle so I never mess with anything.

  18. #1318
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    Quote Originally Posted by JHart94949 View Post
    I have the Shred Dogg, I haven't even began messing with putting in "gravity mode". I have to climb for all my fun around here so just never thought about messing with it. Can you tell a big difference when climbing? First thing, I am not a fast climber, never going to win a XC race, never the first in my group to the top. Not that I am out of shape (okay maybe a little) but I just get zero joy out of pushing myself to the point of exhaustion before I get to go downhill. For a slow climber like me will I even tell the difference in the two modes and do you recommend just putting it in Gravity all the time??
    I saw you're in the Bay Area. Are you still there? If so, where do you ride?

    It takes 30 seconds to change the position of the bolt, but I couldn't do that every few minutes for the rolling hills of the Bay Area. If you're going up a long climb in Skeggs, then I would definitely switch the position. There are some long DH sections that make it worthwhile.

    It also depends on what you're used to: for me, I'm used to a 200m DH bike for the summer, so the gravity mode feels more natural to me now. But when I first got it, the trail mode felt more natural because I was coming off the HD3, and the Shred Dogg in trail mode felt like the HD3, but with a lower BB. You definitely feel more "on" the bike in trail mode than the gravity mode, where you feel "in" the bike. And for me, I like being "in" the bike--both up and downhill.

    So for me, I leave mine in gravity mode all the time--especially now that I have an oval chainring. For any long climbs (anything a mile or longer, and that seems to be 95% of the riding here in Colorado), I'll probably put it in trail mode, but if it's any rolling terrain, I want to keep it in gravity mode. I live for the DH and really don't care that much about the climbs (the whole asthma thing kinda has me week about it), even if I walk.

    I just like going downhill, and the lifts aren't open year-round, and since my husband likes trail riding, I need to be getting used to climbing. Here's my thoughts:

    - Shred Dogg in trail mode: good for long climbs
    - Shred Dogg in gravity mode: good for all around riding, with a focus towards down
    - Megatrail in trail mode: good for all around riding, with more of a long travel XC bike feel
    - Megatrail in gravity mode: a short travel DH bike that you can pedal up short climbs

    For me, the Megatrail is overkill--except for riding it at the lift access bike parks. I don't ride anything rowdy enough to really justify that much trail. It feels like too much for the trails I ride, and not enough for me (I like the dual crown rides) for the DH rides to ride all day. It's not that the Megatrail can't--it can--it's very capable--but not for my riding.

    My riding I like the slack angles and short(er) travel, which is why I have my setup. Also, I'm looking forward to riding this at Moab. So I'm working on getting my bike setup for more pedaling than I've done in the past year.

  19. #1319
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    MT mornings

    Out early this morning. Three quarters the way up the mountain as the sun comes up

    Guerilla Gravity Megatrail. Any Thoughts?-mt-26-2-.jpg

    Had to stop and snap a shot. Always a good morning out on a MT.

  20. #1320
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    Quote Originally Posted by stripes View Post
    Do you have riding pics too?
    Guerilla Gravity Megatrail. Any Thoughts?-img_6509.jpg

    Guerilla Gravity Megatrail. Any Thoughts?-img_6475.jpg

  21. #1321
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    Quote Originally Posted by cytoe View Post
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    Awesome! That looks like such a cool trip...

  22. #1322
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    Quote Originally Posted by stripes View Post
    Here's my thoughts:

    - Shred Dogg in trail mode: good for long climbs
    - Shred Dogg in gravity mode: good for all around riding, with a focus towards down
    - Megatrail in trail mode: good for all around riding, with more of a long travel XC bike feel
    - Megatrail in gravity mode: a short travel DH bike that you can pedal up short climbs

    For me, the Megatrail is overkill--except for riding it at the lift access bike parks. I don't ride anything rowdy enough to really justify that much trail. It feels like too much for the trails I ride, and not enough for me (I like the dual crown rides) for the DH rides to ride all day. It's not that the Megatrail can't--it can--it's very capable--but not for my riding.
    This is really helpful - particularly for those of us [still!] straddling the fence on which shock length to go with (initially?) Interestingly, this seems to indicate that the MT in Trail mode is more pedally than the SD in Gravity mode. Coming off an 80mm old skool XC bike, I'm a bit torn - it seems like the SD will cover pretty much anything I ride on a regular basis, and I could leave it in Gravity mode most of the time. But the MT in Trail mode would be similarly capable, perhaps requiring the switch even less often.

    Super long climbs aren't the norm, but they do happen. Bike park days are infrequent - but for that I'd definitely want the MT/Gravity combo.

    Damn - it's almost as if 2 shocks is mandatory to get everything out of the bike, but I guess it's like getting a 2nd bike for the cost of a 2nd shock!


    Not a typical ride, and one for which I wouldn't have turned down an e-bike...

    Guerilla Gravity Megatrail. Any Thoughts?-elevationprofile.jpg

  23. #1323
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    Quote Originally Posted by Khai View Post
    This is really helpful - particularly for those of us [still!] straddling the fence on which shock length to go with (initially?) Interestingly, this seems to indicate that the MT in Trail mode is more pedally than the SD in Gravity mode. Coming off an 80mm old skool XC bike, I'm a bit torn - it seems like the SD will cover pretty much anything I ride on a regular basis, and I could leave it in Gravity mode most of the time. But the MT in Trail mode would be similarly capable, perhaps requiring the switch even less often.

    Super long climbs aren't the norm, but they do happen. Bike park days are infrequent - but for that I'd definitely want the MT/Gravity combo.

    Damn - it's almost as if 2 shocks is mandatory to get everything out of the bike, but I guess it's like getting a 2nd bike for the cost of a 2nd shock!


    Not a typical ride, and one for which I wouldn't have turned down an e-bike...

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    I dunno, for me I really had to decide between the MT in trail and the SD in gravity. What did it for me is the way the bike feels as a whole, not just for uphills. I feel the bike climbs just fine in SD gravity as it does in MT trail, but it feels better going down in SD gravity. I think I drove myself crazy changing out the shocks one night trying to figure out what I liked better.

    I have a park bike (200mm travel, Scott Gambler), the MT would be a backup park bike, or something to ride a bit slower or ride different DH runs with it. BUT--I don't need another park bike.

    What I need is something that will help my confidence on the trails, especially the technical. With the ride profile you posted, I would be more than happy to use trail mode up and gravity mode down. I also spend a lot of time working on jumps and dual slalom, which the MT isn't as much fun as the SD for it.

    I've had a few people give me some criticism is I ride a heavy AL bike with a coil shock and that's not ideal for the trails. Everyone to their own. I was able to climb faster in the SD trail than the MT trail and the HD3 on a 7.5 mile climb. It's not a new bike thing either--it's what works for me, especially once you get the suspension dialed.

    The SD doesn't sink into the travel the way the MT does. While they're both good bikes, I built up my SD to be playful and poppy. The MT doesn't feel poppy to me, but it's a good shorter travel bike for the lift parks.

    Also, remember I'm on a XS frame--while the engineering doesn't change, note that more travel might feel relatively bigger to me on a XS frame vs the larger frames. And being short, I don't want to have a ridiculous amount of rear travel to fight uphill. Gravity mode is fine.

    I'll get some more ride time on it tomorrow and next week. I should be able to have more feedback for you in the gravity mode.

  24. #1324
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    Quote Originally Posted by cytoe View Post
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    That looks like all kinds of awesome. Thanks for sharing!

  25. #1325
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    Quote Originally Posted by cytoe View Post
    sure. I have more if you want

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    more please !!!!!

  26. #1326
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    This bike is really fun

  27. #1327
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    Has anybody had issues with seatposts getting seized? Even with my collar 100% loose, the Fall Line I attempted to push into the seat tube won't come out. I had the frame sideways on the floor and was twisting the saddle back and forth pulling every muscle in my back and the thing wouldn't budge.

    Seems like the fit is way tighter than the LEV Integra which was previously equipped.
    Guerrilla Gravity Shred Dogg w/ 160mm Lyrik, 9-46t/28t

  28. #1328
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    Quote Originally Posted by pixel_nut View Post
    Has anybody had issues with seatposts getting seized? Even with my collar 100% loose, the Fall Line I attempted to push into the seat tube won't come out. I had the frame sideways on the floor and was twisting the saddle back and forth pulling every muscle in my back and the thing wouldn't budge.

    Seems like the fit is way tighter than the LEV Integra which was previously equipped.
    Did you buy a longer post?


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  29. #1329
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    Quote Originally Posted by marti163 View Post
    Did you buy a longer post?
    Yep! 175mm Fall Line should juuust fit (Medium frame, 6' rider). Problem is, it seized about halfway into the seat tube from the previous owner's carbon paste (I guess?), and now it won't come out. Taking a heat gun to the seat tube later (carefully)...

    On the bike side of things, this thing has been phenomenal!
    Guerilla Gravity Megatrail. Any Thoughts?-21457360_3993628032227_5119601121761491114_o.jpg

    Guerilla Gravity Megatrail. Any Thoughts?-21458275_3993628552240_8818686539136145865_o.jpg

    Guerilla Gravity Megatrail. Any Thoughts?-21458177_3993627192206_8721058670915016892_o.jpg
    Guerrilla Gravity Shred Dogg w/ 160mm Lyrik, 9-46t/28t

  30. #1330
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    Quote Originally Posted by pixel_nut View Post
    Yep! 175mm Fall Line should juuust fit (Medium frame, 6' rider). Problem is, it seized about halfway into the seat tube from the previous owner's carbon paste (I guess?), and now it won't come out. Taking a heat gun to the seat tube later (carefully)...

    On the bike side of things, this thing has been phenomenal!
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    I had that issue with my small frame trying to fit a 150mm dropper. The seat tube is curved or warped from welding and even though I have the vertical space for it I can't get the insertion depth to run it. I brought it up to GG and was told it's normal and that every frame they had in the shop had the same warp. Running a 125mm post instead. Put a straight edge down the back of the seat tube to check. If that's the case there's no fix.


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  31. #1331
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    Quote Originally Posted by marti163 View Post
    I had that issue with my small frame trying to fit a 150mm dropper. The seat tube is curved or warped from welding and even though I have the vertical space for it I can't get the insertion depth to run it. I brought it up to GG and was told it's normal and that every frame they had in the shop had the same warp. Running a 125mm post instead. Put a straight edge down the back of the seat tube to check. If that's the case there's no fix.


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    Well.....crap! Guess I'll find out soon enough
    Even so, the Fall Line wasn't going down nearly as far as the LEV Integra for some reason. I have a feeling it's the horizontal machined bands causing a collection of leftover carbon paste or something.
    Guerrilla Gravity Shred Dogg w/ 160mm Lyrik, 9-46t/28t

  32. #1332
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    Quote Originally Posted by marti163 View Post
    I had that issue with my small frame trying to fit a 150mm dropper. The seat tube is curved or warped from welding and even though I have the vertical space for it I can't get the insertion depth to run it. I brought it up to GG and was told it's normal and that every frame they had in the shop had the same warp. Running a 125mm post instead. Put a straight edge down the back of the seat tube to check. If that's the case there's no fix.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    I had a similar issue with my Intense Uzzi. The protrusion was too deep to be reamed out so I bought a cheap metal file from Harbor Freight, cut off the plastic handle and duct taped the file to the end of a broom handle and filed it down.

    Took a little while but it worked and the place where it protruded was in an area where it was surrounded by welds on the other side so I wasn't super worried about weakening the tubing.

    I don't think I took more than a couple mm's off. The seat post is still snug in there but I can move/remove it if need be now.

  33. #1333
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    Quote Originally Posted by liqwid View Post
    I had a similar issue with my Intense Uzzi. The protrusion was too deep to be reamed out so I bought a cheap metal file from Harbor Freight, cut off the plastic handle and duct taped the file to the end of a broom handle and filed it down.

    Took a little while but it worked and the place where it protruded was in an area where it was surrounded by welds on the other side so I wasn't super worried about weakening the tubing.

    I don't think I took more than a couple mm's off. The seat post is still snug in there but I can move/remove it if need be now.
    I have a 30.9 reamer that is long enough but it just works its way down the tube along the curve since there isn't a way to control the angle with hand reamer. I have that tool because I had an issue with a previous frame where the welds penetrated too far and affected the inner wall of the seat tube. Initially I thought that was the problem here until I discovered the warp.

  34. #1334
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    I sent 9point8 an email explaining what's going on, but it's just bizarre because the KS LEV will go down a good 8" into the tube, whereas the Fall Line gets incredibly stuck after 2-3"! The real kicker is that they measure totally identical with calipers down to the .001"! I can only imagine that the machined texture on the Fall Line is the culprit, causing some increased surface area...phenomenon...hah?

    Very thoroughly cleaned the inside of the seat tube, sanded down with a dowell (even though no burrs are present), and still no dice. I switched back to the LEV so I can continue riding for now.
    Guerrilla Gravity Shred Dogg w/ 160mm Lyrik, 9-46t/28t

  35. #1335
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    Quote Originally Posted by pixel_nut View Post
    I sent 9point8 an email explaining what's going on, but it's just bizarre because the KS LEV will go down a good 8" into the tube, whereas the Fall Line gets incredibly stuck after 2-3"! The real kicker is that they measure totally identical with calipers down to the .001"! I can only imagine that the machined texture on the Fall Line is the culprit, causing some increased surface area...phenomenon...hah?

    Very thoroughly cleaned the inside of the seat tube, sanded down with a dowell (even though no burrs are present), and still no dice. I switched back to the LEV so I can continue riding for now.
    The KS Lev posts seem to be much shorter than the others. I tried to get a 100mm Transfer in my XS shred dogg, and no joy. It's that much longer than the Levs.

  36. #1336
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    Quote Originally Posted by stripes View Post
    The KS Lev posts seem to be much shorter than the others. I tried to get a 100mm Transfer in my XS shred dogg, and no joy. It's that much longer than the Levs.
    Total length aside, the LEV goes into the seat tube way further than the Fall Line will, which is weird. The official response from GG and 9point8 is that they both think I should take my frame to the LBS to get the tube honed.

  37. #1337
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    I got back from a not-so-great ride at a new trail network today. There were a lot of small rollers and I was smacking my pedals constantly.

    Was there a problem with the bike? No.....not at all. I was in gravity mode and was just too (*&^ing lazy to stop and take the 30 seconds to move it back to trail mode for most of the ride. Towards the end, I finally did break out the multi-tool to make the switch and suddenly the pedal strikes went away and the bike was setup perfectly for the rolling and twisting trails in that park.

    Operator error all the way. I should have known which mode to use based on the topography of the area.
    Last edited by Curveball; 09-23-2017 at 06:59 AM. Reason: misspelling
    Riding Washington State singletrack since 1986

  38. #1338
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    Quote Originally Posted by cytoe View Post
    Click image for larger version. 

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    That's just stunning!

    I'm quite jealous!
    Riding Washington State singletrack since 1986

  39. #1339
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    Quote Originally Posted by pixel_nut View Post
    Total length aside, the LEV goes into the seat tube way further than the Fall Line will, which is weird. The official response from GG and 9point8 is that they both think I should take my frame to the LBS to get the tube honed.
    Just buy a flexible hone on amazon. Assuming you have a drill, easy to do at home.

  40. #1340
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    Quote Originally Posted by jcc383 View Post
    Just buy a flexible hone on amazon. Assuming you have a drill, easy to do at home.
    It arrives today
    $12 on Amazon.

    I'll start that project after my upcoming weekend at Windrock DH park in Tennessee-- I'd probably mess everything up right before my trip, so the LEV is staying in (and getting slammed down) until I get back. The stanchion damage on my Lyrik is finally roughing up the seals enough to leak some oil, so the DH is going to be pretty exhilarating!

    I'll probably be okay. Either way, very excited to test my 2.8" DHRII in the back for braking traction. I scorched my 180mm rotors front and back on my last (first) visit. I'm a DH noob!
    Guerrilla Gravity Shred Dogg w/ 160mm Lyrik, 9-46t/28t

  41. #1341
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    Particularly after seeing his Pedalhead review, I'm stoked for Lee McCormack's review of the MT.


    https://www.facebook.com/photo.php?f...5628092179871&

  42. #1342
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    Matt- do you guys have the travel reducers for the SD coil? I was thinking about getting a Shredd Dogg in a few months, but it seems like a better option to get a MT and just reduce travel and have two bikes with one shock.

  43. #1343
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    Quote Originally Posted by Fluidworks View Post
    Matt- do you guys have the travel reducers for the SD coil? I was thinking about getting a Shredd Dogg in a few months, but it seems like a better option to get a MT and just reduce travel and have two bikes with one shock.
    We don't, the couple riders I've seen do that made their own from a piece of plastic. The Rockshox part is a round disc of plastic with a round hole in the middle, but with no slot, the end of the damper shaft has to be removed to install or remove it. If you make one (or modify) with a slot, then you can slip it on and off similar to the spring collar.

  44. #1344
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    Here we go, attempting to get a 175mm 9point8 Fall Line to fit. Guerilla Gravity Megatrail. Any Thoughts?-img_20170926_124340.jpg

    Cleaning the inside thoroughly between test fitments is essential.
    Guerilla Gravity Megatrail. Any Thoughts?-img_20170926_124527.jpg

    The seatpost is making its way to the "50" line so far. What prevents the 175mm Fall Line vs the 150mm LEV from going down as far, is the 150mm LEV actually tapers in diameter towards the bottom a slight amount. I've discovered, as previously stated by others, that there is a forward bend in the seat tube as it nears the stealth cable's exit hole. Pressing the seat post down to this bend causes the seat post to be forced against the rear of the seat tube's surface, where the split is at the collar location.

    My Flex Hone only has an 8" shaft, and I've ordered an extension that should help me remove material where it matters-- at the bend:

    Guerilla Gravity Megatrail. Any Thoughts?-51wgnqtpybl._sl1000_.jpg

    I've filed away some material along the rear of my 9point8 dropper as well in an effort to increase the depth the post can enter before being pushed forward by the bend, but this made little difference. If honing at the bend works, it'll be worth it. If not, my $300 Fall Line will be worth a bit less when I sell it!
    Guerrilla Gravity Shred Dogg w/ 160mm Lyrik, 9-46t/28t

  45. #1345
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    New bike day!!! My XS Shred Dogg finally arrived in the mail on Monday (took UPS almost 45 minutes to find it at their facility when I went to pick it up, then they finally asked what it was I was getting and I replied "bike" they were like, oh yeah! and found it right away). Got the suspension set up yesterday with the help of a friend and need to bed in the brakes. First shakedown ride planned for Saturday and I CANNOT WAIT! Introducing Donatello
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Guerilla Gravity Megatrail. Any Thoughts?-donatellocomplete.jpg  

    Guerrilla Gravity BAMF, RideGG, Cycle-CNY, MTB4Her.com

  46. #1346
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    Quote Originally Posted by petey15 View Post
    New bike day!!! My XS Shred Dogg finally arrived in the mail on Monday (took UPS almost 45 minutes to find it at their facility when I went to pick it up, then they finally asked what it was I was getting and I replied "bike" they were like, oh yeah! and found it right away). Got the suspension set up yesterday with the help of a friend and need to bed in the brakes. First shakedown ride planned for Saturday and I CANNOT WAIT! Introducing Donatello

    Sweet! Can't wait for your ride report & build list!

  47. #1347
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    Quote Originally Posted by petey15 View Post
    New bike day!!! My XS Shred Dogg finally arrived in the mail on Monday (took UPS almost 45 minutes to find it at their facility when I went to pick it up, then they finally asked what it was I was getting and I replied "bike" they were like, oh yeah! and found it right away). Got the suspension set up yesterday with the help of a friend and need to bed in the brakes. First shakedown ride planned for Saturday and I CANNOT WAIT! Introducing Donatello
    Siiick, I just took my Shred Dogg to Windrock DH park for the second time and my bike blew my mind some more. One of these days I'll pop a coil in mine. That bike will not disappoint!

  48. #1348
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    Donatello us up and running! Taking him out on his inaugural voyage tomorrow. One of the first things I noticed is it is going to be MUCH easier to get that front wheel up. I feel like it's going to be a really short "getting acquainted" period for this bike - I felt instantly comfortable. This is completely different from my last ride (2013 Giant Trance X 29er) - smaller, slacker and more travel. Feeling pretty giddy right now!

    Ride 1 Build (with a couple of upgrades)
    Frame: Shred Dogg (formerly MegaTrail SS - hence the decals) - XS
    Shock: Rock Shox Super Deluxe RCT
    Fork: Rock Shox Lyrik 160mm
    Brakes: Shimano XT
    Drivetrain: Shimano XT
    Cranks: RaceFace Atlas 28T, 165mm
    Chainguide: MRP AMg carbon
    Pedals: Blackspire Sub4
    Handlebars: RaceFace Chester
    Stem: RaceFace Atlas 50mm
    Grips: ODI Ruffian Lock-on
    Seatpost: KS Lev i 125mm
    Seatpost lever: Wolf Tooth remote with southpaw
    Saddle: WTB Volt Pro
    Wheelset: Stan's Mark III Flow
    Front Tire: Maxxis DHF 2.6
    Rear Tire: Maxxis Rekon 2.6
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    Guerrilla Gravity BAMF, RideGG, Cycle-CNY, MTB4Her.com

  49. #1349
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    Awesome - look forward to your first ride report!

  50. #1350
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    Been staring at geo charts... call me crazy, but I think I'd build a 27.5 MegaTrail v2 with a 160mm 27.5+/29 RockShox Lyrik. You could run Specialized 27.5 x 2.6" tires (which are as tall as the 27.5 x 2.8 DHF) on wide rims and still have tons of clearance for a mud guard.

    65.7* HTA, 160/150 travel for trail (maybe run an air shock?)
    65* HTA, 160/165 travel for park (maybe run a coil shock?)

    Yes, you give up 10mm of front travel for park use, but it would make a super aggressive 27.5 bike for daily use. 160/150 27.5 seems well 'balanced' for aggressive trail riding in my mind, but that's just arm chair/laptop engineering.
    I like 'em long, low, slack and playful

  51. #1351
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    Guerilla Gravity Megatrail. Any Thoughts?

    So the 27.5 Lyrik won't fit the Specialized 2.6 tires??

    Although it does seem like a good idea. You could get a short stroke shock tire for some 29er goodness in the future.

  52. #1352
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    Quote Originally Posted by Apolonios View Post
    So the 27.5 Lyrik won't fit the Specialized 2.6 tires??
    I didn't say that

    I said you'd have room for days with a 2.6 and the 27.5+/29 Lyrik
    I like 'em long, low, slack and playful

  53. #1353
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    Is anyone here using a DVO Topaz on a Shred Dogg?

    I don't see the correct size for the bike listed on the DVO website.
    Riding Washington State singletrack since 1986

  54. #1354
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    Quote Originally Posted by 06HokieMTB View Post
    Been staring at geo charts... call me crazy, but I think I'd build a 27.5 MegaTrail v2 with a 160mm 27.5+/29 RockShox Lyrik. You could run Specialized 27.5 x 2.6" tires (which are as tall as the 27.5 x 2.8 DHF) on wide rims and still have tons of clearance for a mud guard.

    65.7* HTA, 160/150 travel for trail (maybe run an air shock?)
    65* HTA, 160/165 travel for park (maybe run a coil shock?)

    Yes, you give up 10mm of front travel for park use, but it would make a super aggressive 27.5 bike for daily use. 160/150 27.5 seems well 'balanced' for aggressive trail riding in my mind, but that's just arm chair/laptop engineering.
    Some feedback for you: Iíve rode both the megatrail in 160mm and 170mm for the fork.

    My thoughts:
    If youíre going to run it in trail mode most of the time, ride it with a 160mm fork. If youíre going to run it in gravity mode most of the time, go with a 170 or 180mm fork.

    For the first half of the season, I rode trestle with the megatrail with 170mm fork in gravity mode. The geo is perfect for parks if you donít want to get a DH bike. Since I picked up a DH bike halfway through the season, Iíve been on working on optimizing it for trail riding for me.

    So I did some trail riding with the megatrail as opposed to the shred dogg and it wasnít for me. It felt too tall for me in trail mode with 170mm fork, and it felt really squirrelly downhill. The gravity mode felt awesome but was painful for me to pedal.

    My current setup is the shred dogg in trail mode with a -1 works headset and a 160mm fork. I really like this because the bike is super responsive and climbs well but has the stability downhill I want. Iím curious to how it would feel with a 150mm fork too, but not that curious yet

    While itís nice to change the geo of the bike, thereís still enough stuff thatís up and down and Iíll need to be able to pedal it.

  55. #1355
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    Quote Originally Posted by Curveball View Post
    Is anyone here using a DVO Topaz on a Shred Dogg?

    I don't see the correct size for the bike listed on the DVO website.
    They don't list the size online, but it can be done if you call them.

  56. #1356
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    Quote Originally Posted by mtg7aa View Post
    They don't list the size online, but it can be done if you call them.
    So I guess that explains why the only 230x65 shocks I can find are used Super Deluxes? Is metric just not going to have availability through most retailers for some reason, or is it just something that's being oddly slow to catch on? I've never purchased a shock after the fact since I've generally been satisfied with stock suspension but this bike has me looking into DVO/Push since I'm pushing it harder than anything I've ever owned.

    FYI, I got the 175mm Fall Line fitment to work!

    Guerilla Gravity Megatrail. Any Thoughts?-img_20171001_130211.jpg

    Guerilla Gravity Megatrail. Any Thoughts?-img_20170929_214256.jpg

    It can be about a half inch from fully slammed-- further down and the cable exit hole forces the cable to bend too sharply. Works perfect if you're my exact height I guess! Any shorter than 6' and your climbing position would be too high! I'm 6'-6'1". If I crash and compress my spine I guess I'll have to go back to 150mm

    My friend has been begging me to ride but I've been letting my shoulder recover after tumbling down some rocks-- I had plenty of time to kill while working with the flex hone. Serviced my Lyrik lowers, swapped to a 28t chainring, swapped my tires (2.8 DHRII EXO up front now) and refreshed my Stans sealant.

    Guerilla Gravity Megatrail. Any Thoughts?-img_20170930_163041.jpg

    Tried to adjust my rebound, realized I installed the hardware on the wrong fork leg, lmao...

    Guerilla Gravity Megatrail. Any Thoughts?-img_20170930_181630.jpg
    Guerrilla Gravity Shred Dogg w/ 160mm Lyrik, 9-46t/28t

  57. #1357
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    Quote Originally Posted by pixel_nut View Post
    So I guess that explains why the only 230x65 shocks I can find are used Super Deluxes? Is metric just not going to have availability through most retailers for some reason, or is it just something that's being oddly slow to catch on? I've never purchased a shock after the fact since I've generally been satisfied with stock suspension but this bike has me looking into DVO/Push since I'm pushing it harder than anything I've ever owned.
    I would imagine that most of the used metric shocks available are Super Deluxes due to people replacing them with something like an ELEVENSIX, or something else that they have a strong preference for. As time goes on, I would estimate the aftermarket will catch up.

  58. #1358
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    Quote Originally Posted by pixel_nut View Post

    FYI, I got the 175mm Fall Line fitment to work!

    It can be about a half inch from fully slammed-- further down and the cable exit hole forces the cable to bend too sharply. Works perfect if you're my exact height I guess! Any shorter than 6' and your climbing position would be too high! I'm 6'-6'1". If I crash and compress my spine I guess I'll have to go back to 150mm
    just so you know, with the 9 point 8 fall line you can add spacers and effectively shorten the stroke. so you can go down to a 170mm or shorter stroke.

    I forget when/where I found this out, but I did when I was looking for how to replace a faulty brake in my fall line.

  59. #1359
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    Quote Originally Posted by pixel_nut View Post
    Tried to adjust my rebound, realized I installed the hardware on the wrong fork leg, lmao...
    Yep, I've done that too... Don't worry, you only do it once!
    I like 'em long, low, slack and playful

  60. #1360
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    Quote Originally Posted by 2zmtnz View Post
    just so you know, with the 9 point 8 fall line you can add spacers and effectively shorten the stroke. so you can go down to a 170mm or shorter stroke.

    I forget when/where I found this out, but I did when I was looking for how to replace a faulty brake in my fall line.
    I saw that, but I assumed it caused the dropped end of the travel to just bottom out sooner. Does it actually space in such a way that the overall length at its fully extended position is reduced? If so, that's awesome!
    Guerrilla Gravity Shred Dogg w/ 160mm Lyrik, 9-46t/28t

  61. #1361
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    Quote Originally Posted by pixel_nut View Post
    I saw that, but I assumed it caused the dropped end of the travel to just bottom out sooner. Does it actually space in such a way that the overall length at its fully extended position is reduced? If so, that's awesome!
    I've wondered about that myself. If "reduced travel" means that it goes from a fixed max height to a higher lowest height, I don't see any benefit - but if it means that the max height goes from x to "lower than x", and the max drop stays the same, that could be beneficial indeed.

  62. #1362
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    Quote Originally Posted by pixel_nut View Post
    So I guess that explains why the only 230x65 shocks I can find are used Super Deluxes? Is metric just not going to have availability through most retailers for some reason, or is it just something that's being oddly slow to catch on? I've never purchased a shock after the fact since I've generally been satisfied with stock suspension but this bike has me looking into DVO/Push since I'm pushing it harder than anything I've ever owned.

    FYI, I got the 175mm Fall Line fitment to work!

    Click image for larger version. 

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    It can be about a half inch from fully slammed-- further down and the cable exit hole forces the cable to bend too sharply. Works perfect if you're my exact height I guess! Any shorter than 6' and your climbing position would be too high! I'm 6'-6'1". If I crash and compress my spine I guess I'll have to go back to 150mm

    My friend has been begging me to ride but I've been letting my shoulder recover after tumbling down some rocks-- I had plenty of time to kill while working with the flex hone. Serviced my Lyrik lowers, swapped to a 28t chainring, swapped my tires (2.8 DHRII EXO up front now) and refreshed my Stans sealant.

    Click image for larger version. 

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    Tried to adjust my rebound, realized I installed the hardware on the wrong fork leg, lmao...

    Click image for larger version. 

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    Did the hone do the trick or did it take something more?


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

  63. #1363
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    Quote Originally Posted by marti163 View Post
    Did the hone do the trick or did it take something more?
    I used a file to remove an aesthetically displeasing amount of material off of the back of the dropper (where the insertion depth lines are) since that's where the post first makes hard contact with the frame, but the 1.25" low grit hone did the brunt of the work. I probably could have gotten it to work without touching the dropper. The specific extension that I bought for the flex hone worked beautifully, as lower down near the exit hole is where the fitment issue really is. I finalized with a dowell rod and some higher grit sandpaper, but with the good cleaning I gave it after each hone session, coupled with some grease over the seatpost, that isn't really necessary. The dowell + an ungodly amount of paper towells + duct tape to get the paper towells to stay put on the dowell was the most time-consuming part.

    @mtg7aa, I'm curious if you guys offer 175mm droppers on any of your builds, specifically if they're only available once you make it to a size Large frame.
    Guerrilla Gravity Shred Dogg w/ 160mm Lyrik, 9-46t/28t

  64. #1364
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    Quote Originally Posted by pixel_nut View Post
    I saw that, but I assumed it caused the dropped end of the travel to just bottom out sooner. Does it actually space in such a way that the overall length at its fully extended position is reduced? If so, that's awesome!
    Quote Originally Posted by Khai View Post
    I've wondered about that myself. If "reduced travel" means that it goes from a fixed max height to a higher lowest height, I don't see any benefit - but if it means that the max height goes from x to "lower than x", and the max drop stays the same, that could be beneficial indeed.
    straight from 9pint 8's FAQ:

    Absolutely! Any post can have the stroke reduced by addition of our spacers (available on our parts page in a range of lengths) . These spacers can be installed by the factory or can be purchased separately and installed by the user (brake release tool required).

    Note: spacers reduce the overall length of the post and stroke by the same amount.


    since I had to replace a faulty brake I can say that taking the fall line all apart is do able your self but it can get frustrating trying to put it back together, and I would suggest redoing the seals while you have it apart.

    also side note if you have the original lever get your self the wolf tooth lever (the lever they are now shipping with fall lines), it makes set up 100% easier!

  65. #1365
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    Quote Originally Posted by mtg7aa View Post
    They don't list the size online, but it can be done if you call them.
    It's confirmed by DVO. I'll buy the shock from you to replace the stock RS Deluxe which isn't so great. I just can't bring myself to get a coil shock and make the bike heavier. I'm getting too old to pedal a heavy bike.

  66. #1366
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    Quote Originally Posted by Khai View Post
    Particularly after seeing his Pedalhead review, I'm stoked for Lee McCormack's review of the MT.


    https://www.facebook.com/photo.php?f...5628092179871&
    I took a clinic last week from Lee, and he was riding the Shred Dogg. Looked like a great bike, and it got me interested in the brand. Lee was definitely shredding it, and the bike seemed happy to keep up with him.

    One issue he was having (and I would have big time) is that the reach is so long that it is hard to get a good fit for shorter folks (and even mid-height folks!). Lee was switching to 16 degree backsweep bars to get the grips back into the right position, and looking at the geo, I'm not sure I could get one to fit me at all, with any combination of stem and bars... I'm all about SLACK and LOW, but I wish companies would lay off the LONG a bit. Lee advocates getting to a fit where the grips are as far from the bottom bracket as an olympic bar would be from your feet during a deadlift (Rider Area Distance).

    This makes a ton of sense to me, and adjusting my fit in that direction has had huge benefits, but it almost always means a shorter reach than current frames are designed with. I'm 5'6", and need a rider area distance of about 730mm, which means the reach on the smallest size frame needs to be 400mm or less, which is getting really uncommon.

  67. #1367
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    Quote Originally Posted by phidauex View Post
    Lee advocates getting to a fit where the grips are as far from the bottom bracket as an olympic bar would be from your feet during a deadlift (Rider Area Distance).
    Do you know if he has an article where he explains this. The way you word it, is not making sense to me.

    I mean you're supposed to balance the bar through the middle of your foot during a deadlift. Do you mean the distance from your feet to the bar when you're fully extended?

    Im interested mainly because im between sizes on these bikes and not sure if I should size up or down.

  68. #1368
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    Quote Originally Posted by Apolonios View Post
    Do you know if he has an article where he explains this. The way you word it, is not making sense to me.

    I mean you're supposed to balance the bar through the middle of your foot during a deadlift. Do you mean the distance from your feet to the bar when you're fully extended?

    Im interested mainly because im between sizes on these bikes and not sure if I should size up or down.
    Ditto... I was always taught good deadlift form had the bar raising and lowering in a vertical line from the start, which is roughly over the balls of the feet. That would be a pretty short reach!

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    Quote Originally Posted by Apolonios View Post
    Do you know if he has an article where he explains this. The way you word it, is not making sense to me.

    I mean you're supposed to balance the bar through the middle of your foot during a deadlift. Do you mean the distance from your feet to the bar when you're fully extended?

    Im interested mainly because im between sizes on these bikes and not sure if I should size up or down.
    Yeah, I'm not describing it well at all.

    Here is a blog post he has about it - there is a pitch there for his sizing calculators. I have used them and they are really handy, but not 100% necessary.

    http://www.leelikesbikes.com/sizing-...-new-bike.html

    The concept is that when doing a deadlift, your body is in it's strongest position - feet spread, shoulders retracted, core engaged, etc., and this is the same position you want to be in when hauling on the bars up or down to pivot the bike through obstacles.

    The way we measured it was to hold a set of handlebars in our hands, and stand on flat ground with feet spread side-to-side and fore-aft in the same position that they would be on your pedals. Hold the bars like you are at the top of a deadlift, core solid, shoulders back. Having someone pull down on the bars with some weight helps "lock in" this position. Then the distance between that bar and the ground is your Rider Area Distance - and should match the distance between your bottom bracket center and the invisible line between your two grips (made visible with a piece of string).

    It isn't a magic technique - most people who've already dialed in their bike will have already landed there by trial and error, but it is a good way to get a good start. The challenge is that most modern geo bikes have reaches that make it hard to achieve - even with a 40mm stem I've had to flip my riser bar over to get close.

    Compare these two pics (and ignore the fact that Nicholi Rogatkin is nearly upside down), and how close the body position is.

    Guerilla Gravity Megatrail. Any Thoughts?-21617583_1644231852263233_4692579069570143911_n.jpg

    Guerilla Gravity Megatrail. Any Thoughts?-rookie-mistake-deadlift_0.jpg

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    Quote Originally Posted by Scott2MTB View Post
    Ditto... I was always taught good deadlift form had the bar raising and lowering in a vertical line from the start, which is roughly over the balls of the feet. That would be a pretty short reach!
    It is a shorter reach than most people are used to on modern geo bikes! But it does feel good when you get there.

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    Quote Originally Posted by phidauex View Post
    It is a shorter reach than most people are used to on modern geo bikes! But it does feel good when you get there.
    lol. I was thinking of the horizontal distance, not the vertical. RTFQ I guess.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Scott2MTB View Post
    lol. I was thinking of the horizontal distance, not the vertical. RTFQ I guess.
    Like I said, I explained it in a very confusing way! The part that isn't automatically intuitive is that when you are in the "deadlift position" on a bike, the bike isn't level. You can try it out though by pushing two picnic tables (or step ladders or sturdy boxes) about 8" apart, and then putting your bike in the gap, resting on the pedals. Then you can stand on the pedals and pivot the bike around the bottom bracket underneath you. Then you can feel the full range of motion from standing up fully to full pivot.

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    Quote Originally Posted by phidauex View Post
    It isn't a magic technique - most people who've already dialed in their bike will have already landed there by trial and error, but it is a good way to get a good start. The challenge is that most modern geo bikes have reaches that make it hard to achieve - even with a 40mm stem I've had to flip my riser bar over to get close.
    I paid for the RideLogic bike setup as I wasn't sure about the sizing for my (to be ordered) MT/SD. Lee tells me that I have to go with the XS to get the right fit, even though the GG size chart puts me in at a S.

    The main rationale that GG gives for sizing given the massive reach is the steep STA - so I compared my current ETT (butt to bars) with Stripes, as she is close to my height/inseam and has an XS. Hers is (slightly) longer. By trial and error (dumb luck?) my current whip fits me perfectly according to Lee's methodology - and I've managed to push that little 100mm XC bike through all sorts of steep and gnarly terrain for which it definitely was not designed. I'm happy with the fit of that bike, which bodes well for my Lee-determined size MT/SD.

    Odds are if I want a Pedalhead I'll have to get them to build me an XS. The reach on the Small Pedalhead is 20mm shorter than the Small MT/SD, but it still may be too long for me. I'll address that if/when I get there.

  74. #1374
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    Quote Originally Posted by Khai View Post
    I paid for the RideLogic bike setup as I wasn't sure about the sizing for my (to be ordered) MT/SD. Lee tells me that I have to go with the XS to get the right fit, even though the GG size chart puts me in at a S.

    The main rationale that GG gives for sizing given the massive reach is the steep STA - so I compared my current ETT (butt to bars) with Stripes, as she is close to my height/inseam and has an XS. Hers is (slightly) longer. By trial and error (dumb luck?) my current whip fits me perfectly according to Lee's methodology - and I've managed to push that little 100mm XC bike through all sorts of steep and gnarly terrain for which it definitely was not designed. I'm happy with the fit of that bike, which bodes well for my Lee-determined size MT/SD.

    Odds are if I want a Pedalhead I'll have to get them to build me an XS. The reach on the Small Pedalhead is 20mm shorter than the Small MT/SD, but it still may be too long for me. I'll address that if/when I get there.
    Yeah, the tension between "seated fit" and "out of the saddle fit" is tough. The holy grail is to get both right, but for a trail bike, I think it makes sense to prioritize the out-of-saddle fit with the saddle dropped, because that is where you'll be whenever you are doing something that could get you tossed off the bike - technical climbing, drops, jumps, rock gardens, etc. Then adjust seated fit by using various seat setbacks, etc.

    For my body size, it is much harder to get the RAD correct than it is to get the seated position correct, so that is what I have to shop for and tweak for.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Apolonios View Post
    Im interested mainly because im between sizes on these bikes and not sure if I should size up or down.
    Not having any info on you or your dimensions, but knowing (a bit about) Lee's methodology and GGs design philosophy, I'd wager you want the smaller size.

    GG does have a fit guarantee where they'll let you swap frame sizes if you're unhappy with the one you bought and want to trade up/down, but for me it was worth the money to get peace of mind with Lee crunching the numbers. I don't buy new bikes often (built my current 10 years ago) so I want to get it right.

  76. #1376
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    Quote Originally Posted by phidauex View Post
    Yeah, the tension between "seated fit" and "out of the saddle fit" is tough. The holy grail is to get both right, but for a trail bike, I think it makes sense to prioritize the out-of-saddle fit with the saddle dropped, because that is where you'll be whenever you are doing something that could get you tossed off the bike - technical climbing, drops, jumps, rock gardens, etc. Then adjust seated fit by using various seat setbacks, etc.
    I'm 100% in agreement with you there - dropped saddle/standing is where the fun happens, and where fit matters most. I'm not racing - I'll figure out how to climb efficiently enough. Setback/inline posts, various saddles, etc. can all help dial in the seated position if need be.

    I'm 5'5 with a 29" inseam and a RAD of 763. I'm interested in the Spank Vibrocore bars, but may end up with the SQLab ones for the 16deg sweep...

  77. #1377
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    Quote Originally Posted by Khai View Post
    I'm 5'5 with a 29" inseam and a RAD of 763. I'm interested in the Spank Vibrocore bars, but may end up with the SQLab ones for the 16deg sweep...
    I'm 5'6", but have long arms, which lands me in the 730mm zone for my RAD - that is what makes frame buying such a pain - many companies "small" lands in the 770-790mm range using a short stem and normal bars - I need to go farther!

    BTW - Lee just posted his review of the Shred Dogg (which I didn't realize is actually the same frame as the Megatrail, just setup differently): http://www.leelikesbikes.com/guerril...hred-dogg.html

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    I came here to post the same link ^^^

    This is my favorite part:
    "Bigger bike companies fire arrows at each of these categories, and they make bikes that very specifically target various types of riders.

    Meanwhile, Guerilla Gravity throws a grenade into the mid-travel and long-travel trail bike area, and the machine that survives is the Megatrail, but with two different suspension packages. In long travel mode, itís the Megatrail. In medium travel mode, itís the Shred Dogg."

  79. #1379
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    Quote Originally Posted by phidauex View Post
    I'm 5'6", but have long arms, which lands me in the 730mm zone for my RAD - that is what makes frame buying such a pain - many companies "small" lands in the 770-790mm range using a short stem and normal bars - I need to go farther!
    You can always get a riser bar and invert it for more drop.

    Quote Originally Posted by phidauex View Post
    BTW - Lee just posted his review of the Shred Dogg (which I didn't realize is actually the same frame as the Megatrail, just setup differently): http://www.leelikesbikes.com/guerril...hred-dogg.html
    Awesome! I've been waiting on this. Also hoping he'll try it out in Megatrail mode with the longer shock and do a writeup of that as well. I get the impression he's working his way through the entire lineup, as others have asked him to test out the Smash.

    I'm still a bit on the fence re: Shred Dogg vs Megatrail. 2 shocks (and a height adjust fork) is the easy solution, but only sort of.

    GREAT problems to have!

  80. #1380
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    Guerilla Gravity Megatrail. Any Thoughts?-riprowframehorns.jpg
    STRAVA: Enabling dorks everywhere to get trails shut down........ all for the sake of a race on the internet.

  81. #1381
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    Quote Originally Posted by Khai View Post
    You can always get a riser bar and invert it for more drop.
    That is exactly where I am! 35mm riser bar flipped over. I call it - Longhorn Mode.

    Guerilla Gravity Megatrail. Any Thoughts?-22090052_10154915818745095_7988543333890971003_n.jpg

    However, ultimate goal is to get a frame that doesn't require such trickery to get to a fit. I'm still at about 750mm, feeling much better than 790mm, and working to get to 730mm.

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    Quote Originally Posted by phidauex View Post
    Like I said, I explained it in a very confusing way! The part that isn't automatically intuitive is that when you are in the "deadlift position" on a bike, the bike isn't level. You can try it out though by pushing two picnic tables (or step ladders or sturdy boxes) about 8" apart, and then putting your bike in the gap, resting on the pedals. Then you can stand on the pedals and pivot the bike around the bottom bracket underneath you. Then you can feel the full range of motion from standing up fully to full pivot.
    That's an interesting idea. But what about guys who have disproportionately long torsos and ape-index? That puts us on bikes that are very small, relative to our actual height.

    Quote Originally Posted by Khai View Post
    I'm 100% in agreement with you there - dropped saddle/standing is where the fun happens, and where fit matters most.
    Another interesting thing to ponder. I might agree if we're talking about a DH bike, but what about a trail bike? You spend most of your time in the saddle. Also does 10mm or even 20mm make as much difference in finding a balanced position when standing vs the pain it can cause while seated?

    I think all these formulas have their merits as a starting point, if your riding style and physical proportions exactly matches the style of the formula's creator. As a counterpoint to my naysaying though, I've found that for myself, I like a smaller bike (than the current Mondraker-inspired dimensions) for aggressive riding. Sure, the long bikes are more stable in a straight line, but they're much harder for me to throw around. That long bike that's hard to get around a switchback is also hard to whip through high speed chicanes. Straight line speed isn't something that I feel like I need to optimize for.

    I like to relate it to surfing. It's easy for a wider range of people to learn to surf on a long board as they're stable in a straight line and easy to ride in general, but short boards are what you typically use for more dynamic surfing. There's a relationship between the size of the ride, and the rider's style, strength, and geometry that can't be easily factored into a standard fit equation.

  83. #1383
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    Quote Originally Posted by Scott2MTB View Post
    That's an interesting idea. But what about guys who have disproportionately long torsos and ape-index? That puts us on bikes that are very small, relative to our actual height.
    Maybe so - but I'd argue that height is not at all the right way to size a bike in the first place. You don't grab the bars with your teeth, after all. Some companies are more aware of this than others. Take a look at a Kona sizing chart sometime - it is so broad as to be useless - it is like they know that height is the wrong way to size a bike, but still feel like they have to do it that way since everyone else does too. For my height, 5'6", Kona literally recommends a Small, Medium or Large. Thanks?

    Another interesting thing to ponder. I might agree if we're talking about a DH bike, but what about a trail bike? You spend most of your time in the saddle. Also does 10mm or even 20mm make as much difference in finding a balanced position when standing vs the pain it can cause while seated?

    I think all these formulas have their merits as a starting point, if your riding style and physical proportions exactly matches the style of the formula's creator. As a counterpoint to my naysaying though, I've found that for myself, I like a smaller bike (than the current Mondraker-inspired dimensions) for aggressive riding. Sure, the long bikes are more stable in a straight line, but they're much harder for me to throw around. That long bike that's hard to get around a switchback is also hard to whip through high speed chicanes. Straight line speed isn't something that I feel like I need to optimize for.

    I like to relate it to surfing. It's easy for a wider range of people to learn to surf on a long board as they're stable in a straight line and easy to ride in general, but short boards are what you typically use for more dynamic surfing. There's a relationship between the size of the ride, and the rider's style, strength, and geometry that can't be easily factored into a standard fit equation.
    Well I'm definitely not talking about DH bikes (I don't do any real downhill riding, and have never been lift-served, or even shuttled), if I'm going down, it is because I hauled myself up.

    That said, seated pedaling up a fire road is just not terribly difficult, and I've never had a hard time getting a fit to work in that situation. There are many types of seatposts, saddles with long rails, bar sweeps, etc. You can change your effective seat tube angle along quite a range.

    However, the part of the fit that matters for the parts where you are likely to crash, is the relationship between your hands and feet, and if you can't put leverage on the bike, you won't be able to move it around. Looking at the deadlift photo, imagine how much weight you could hold in that position. Now imagine lifting your hands up 2" more, with bent elbows. How much less could you hold then? Probably 1/2, 1/4 or less. You just aren't very strong in that position. If you don't think 20mm means much, next time you are at the gym, do a 3 rep max deadlift - then try to raise the bar up 20mm more. It will probably be impossible.

    Maybe the method isn't very useful for bikes where you truly remain seated all the time, but as a point of curiosity, my La Cruz cross/touring bike which I've been dialed on for the last ten years has a RAD of 730mm to the drops position (damn near where I should be from the measurements). That wasn't intentional - it is just where I ended up through years of experimentation.

    As to your surfboard analogy, I get where you are coming from, but I think the differences you are talking about there are the bike's geometry, not the fit. I don't think anyone should ever ride a bike that doesn't fit them, but there are lots of ways to make a bike with longer wheelbase, or slacker head tube, that have nothing to do with just buying a larger size. I'd venture to say that any bike that has the correct RAD for you will "fit". Then every other aspect of the bike geometry will then determine how it feels. I rode a friend's 22" BMX at the pump track the other day, setting the bars to my approximate RAD - the bike handled entirely differently than my Fuse, or my cross bike for that matter, but I was able to ride it just fine, pumping, and even a little jumping.

  84. #1384
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    Quote Originally Posted by Scott2MTB View Post
    That's an interesting idea. But what about guys who have disproportionately long torsos and ape-index? That puts us on bikes that are very small, relative to our actual height.

    Another interesting thing to ponder. I might agree if we're talking about a DH bike, but what about a trail bike? You spend most of your time in the saddle. Also does 10mm or even 20mm make as much difference in finding a balanced position when standing vs the pain it can cause while seated?
    I don't think anyone here is talking about sizing a DH bike - but at the time when power and control is needed the most, you could be on any (mountain) bike - you'll be in essentially the same position.

    Absolutely one spends the majority of their time seated and pedaling. But pedaling a mtb is a fairly dynamic exercise, positionally. If you think about a (road) time trialist, a good one almost never varies from their optimal position - the ideal balance of aerodynamics and power generation given their morphology. A roadie will move around a bit more, climbing, descending, and perhaps when cornering - but the overall range of positions isn't that large. On a mtb you're moving around a good deal even when seated and pedaling. Unless it's a long continuous grade fire road or something like that, the position is rarely static.

    Because of that, dialing in the perfect seated position is of less value. You just don't spend all your time "in the pocket". It's not too hard to get a decent hip angle with the right length of seatpost and setback. I never set my ideal pedaling position on any mountain bike - XC race bike or otherwise. It's too high and has too much leg extension to be of use on trail, as the smallest bump that pops me up extends my leg too much, negatively impacting control. The same is true for my touring bike, though for different reasons. A few mm higher will net me better power output, but isn't so comfortable for repeated 12-16hr days in the saddle.

    Long torso or short, positive or negative ape index, t-rex or orangutan, the ETT (butt to bars) and RAD can coexist pretty well. It might not look quite the way you want if you have to have flipped riser bars, a reverse mounted setback post, or something unusual like that - but as long as the frame is large enough to support you and small enough so as not to be in the way, the size of the triangles is far less crucial than the location of the contact points (pedals/saddle/bars) - and those are all easily manipulated (within reason). But if you're experiencing pain in any position, it ain't right.

    None of this has anything to do with geometry or frame design - I'm talking purely about size. Chainstay length, head angle, bb height - that's all part of why you might choose one frame over another. Sizing is entirely different, and changes greatly between manufacturers as well as vintage.

  85. #1385
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    Quote Originally Posted by Khai View Post
    I paid for the RideLogic bike setup as I wasn't sure about the sizing for my (to be ordered) MT/SD. Lee tells me that I have to go with the XS to get the right fit, even though the GG size chart puts me in at a S.

    The main rationale that GG gives for sizing given the massive reach is the steep STA - so I compared my current ETT (butt to bars) with Stripes, as she is close to my height/inseam and has an XS. Hers is (slightly) longer. By trial and error (dumb luck?) my current whip fits me perfectly according to Lee's methodology - and I've managed to push that little 100mm XC bike through all sorts of steep and gnarly terrain for which it definitely was not designed. I'm happy with the fit of that bike, which bodes well for my Lee-determined size MT/SD.

    Odds are if I want a Pedalhead I'll have to get them to build me an XS. The reach on the Small Pedalhead is 20mm shorter than the Small MT/SD, but it still may be too long for me. I'll address that if/when I get there.
    Ditto - Stripes totally helped me determine my sizing as she and I are the same height and have the same inseam. As I'm on the east coast, I didn't have the opportunity to demo a SD, let alone an XS. So, like you, even though the charts suggest I be on a small bike, I decided (with Stripe's strong recommendation) to go XS. And so far, I am SO glad that I did. I've had limited time on the bike so far, but what I immediately noticed was how comfortable I was on the bike and how easy it was to get back on the bike without feeling like I was stretching too much. The reach is also almost exactly the same as my hardtail that I've been riding around all summer before I got the SD. So, the bike immediately felt familiar in that regard. I'll need to go back and measure, but pretty sure there is almost an inch difference in reach between my old FS bike and the SD - and what a huge difference that can make in comfort. There were a few times I worried, what if it feels too small? But I can happily say that is not the case at all - the bike feels amazing. YMMV, but I'm really glad I took Stripes' advice.
    Guerrilla Gravity BAMF, RideGG, Cycle-CNY, MTB4Her.com

  86. #1386
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    Quote Originally Posted by Khai View Post
    Not having any info on you or your dimensions, but knowing (a bit about) Lee's methodology and GGs design philosophy, I'd wager you want the smaller size.

    GG does have a fit guarantee where they'll let you swap frame sizes if you're unhappy with the one you bought and want to trade up/down, but for me it was worth the money to get peace of mind with Lee crunching the numbers. I don't buy new bikes often (built my current 10 years ago) so I want to get it right.
    Quote Originally Posted by phidauex View Post
    Yeah, the tension between "seated fit" and "out of the saddle fit" is tough. The holy grail is to get both right, but for a trail bike, I think it makes sense to prioritize the out-of-saddle fit with the saddle dropped, because that is where you'll be whenever you are doing something that could get you tossed off the bike - technical climbing, drops, jumps, rock gardens, etc. Then adjust seated fit by using various seat setbacks, etc.

    For my body size, it is much harder to get the RAD correct than it is to get the seated position correct, so that is what I have to shop for and tweak for.
    I've never done the RAD, mainly because I've done too many clinics with Lee that involve bike fitting. Also, for me, I use it as a guideline. It's not exact for me, because I have a broader shoulders than the RAD wants to put me in.

    But yeah-- GG's sizing makes me nuts. The small megatrail was ridiculously tall and long for me, and with my husband being 5'10" felt more comfortable on it than me. Also, he looks like he likes the small more than the medium--even though the designers like their bikes long and consider a medium to be 5'10". So neither of us fit their sizing charts.

    My XS Shred Dogg is running a 50mm stem (no spacers) and a 750mm Spank vibracore bar. According to the RAD, I should be on a shorter stem and narrower bars. I tried that last year--it was too twitchy for me and I wasn't comfortable with it, especially going off a drop.

    Also, the bike fits differently if you're running it in trail mode or gravity mode. Makes getting it fitted a very different animal depending on how you want to ride it. For me, I'll do the fit in trail mode since that's the main pedaling mode and not worry about the fit in gravity mode as that's where you're not doing a lot of pedaling.

    I fit my DH bike differently than I fit any bike I'm going to pedal extensively. My Scott Gambler is a medium, where the Shred Dogg is a XS. But my Shred Dogg fitting is much more particular because I'm doing a considerable amount more pedaling on it, even when I'm at Valmont working on jumps.

    Quote Originally Posted by Khai View Post
    I paid for the RideLogic bike setup as I wasn't sure about the sizing for my (to be ordered) MT/SD. Lee tells me that I have to go with the XS to get the right fit, even though the GG size chart puts me in at a S.

    The main rationale that GG gives for sizing given the massive reach is the steep STA - so I compared my current ETT (butt to bars) with Stripes, as she is close to my height/inseam and has an XS. Hers is (slightly) longer. By trial and error (dumb luck?) my current whip fits me perfectly according to Lee's methodology - and I've managed to push that little 100mm XC bike through all sorts of steep and gnarly terrain for which it definitely was not designed. I'm happy with the fit of that bike, which bodes well for my Lee-determined size MT/SD.

    Odds are if I want a Pedalhead I'll have to get them to build me an XS. The reach on the Small Pedalhead is 20mm shorter than the Small MT/SD, but it still may be too long for me. I'll address that if/when I get there.
    Yeah, I'm where you are with a Pedalhead. I'm hoping to get one ordered since it looks like we are going to have some trails here that would be fun on 3.0 tires here vs taking the Shred Dogg out and getting the bike mucky in the winter. Colorado winters are a non-consecutive event that goes from Oct to May . I would have to get them to make a XS. I'll be in touch with them to see if they can make it happen.

    As for my Shred Dogg, I opted to run mine 100% in trail mode with a -1 works headset. This way it's slack enough for crushing all the things, but the pedaling with it feels amazing. I really wanted to see if I could ride it in gravity mode most of the time, but my pedaling sucks and I need as much help as I can get.

    Now that I've decided on that, I need to get fitted for it. I've also rolled back my suspension settings to the default (except I kept out those tokens out of the fork because they made it feel too harsh).

    My suspension settings:
    - rear shock Super Delux Coil (stiffer spring, my choice): 500 lb, 2 clicks rebound, 1 click compression
    - front fork Lyrik (no tokens): 90psi, 5 clicks rebound, 1 click compression

    For longer climbs, I'll probably run 3 clicks compression front and rear, but when I'm at Valmont or Ruby Hill working on jumps and the like, 1 click seems to be fine. This bike is super playful in this setup, and is wonderfully fun working on jumps and running the dual slalom.

    I'm taking it to Moab this month. That should be really fun on this bike.

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    Quote Originally Posted by petey15 View Post
    Ditto - Stripes totally helped me determine my sizing as she and I are the same height and have the same inseam. As I'm on the east coast, I didn't have the opportunity to demo a SD, let alone an XS. So, like you, even though the charts suggest I be on a small bike, I decided (with Stripe's strong recommendation) to go XS. And so far, I am SO glad that I did.

    ...

    YMMV, but I'm really glad I took Stripes' advice.
    Stripes for BAMF!

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    Guerilla Gravity Megatrail. Any Thoughts?

    Quote Originally Posted by Khai View Post
    Stripes for BAMF!
    Quote Originally Posted by petey15 View Post
    Ditto - Stripes totally helped me determine my sizing as she and I are the same height and have the same inseam. As I'm on the east coast, I didn't have the opportunity to demo a SD, let alone an XS. So, like you, even though the charts suggest I be on a small bike, I decided (with Stripe's strong recommendation) to go XS. And so far, I am SO glad that I did. I've had limited time on the bike so far, but what I immediately noticed was how comfortable I was on the bike and how easy it was to get back on the bike without feeling like I was stretching too much. The reach is also almost exactly the same as my hardtail that I've been riding around all summer before I got the SD. So, the bike immediately felt familiar in that regard. I'll need to go back and measure, but pretty sure there is almost an inch difference in reach between my old FS bike and the SD - and what a huge difference that can make in comfort. There were a few times I worried, what if it feels too small? But I can happily say that is not the case at all - the bike feels amazing. YMMV, but I'm really glad I took Stripes' advice.
    Aww, thanks *blush* I'll see if GG lets me use some references for supporting my case

    Since DH season is over, and I have a Moab trip coming up, I decided to get in some easy miles at one of the nearby lake trails. We found a fun little chute that I would have usually not climbed up, but I went ride up it. The bike climbs as well as it descends. Me, I still suck at climbing, but this make makes it suck much less.

    It's always steeper than the picture makes it look, but this bike makes anything steep not so scary and makes me want to find harder stuff to ride.

    Also, it climbs better on technical stuff than the smooth flat stuff.

    It's amazingly stable. This type of stuff, no matter how easy it was, always felt a bit nerve-wracking on my previous bikes because of the high BBs. This bike is so stable, even in trail mode with the higher BB position.

    Guerilla Gravity Megatrail. Any Thoughts?-afternoon-ride.jpg

    I'm thinking that I want a different rear shock. I'm not really excited with either the SD air or coil, so I'm interested to hear the results of the Evo. Matt: is Push going to be offering an 11-6 for the Shred Dogg?
    Last edited by stripes; 10-05-2017 at 08:24 PM.

  89. #1389
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    Quote Originally Posted by stripes View Post
    I'm thinking that I want a different rear shock. I'm not really excited with either the SD air or coil, so I'm interested to hear the results of the Evo. Matt: is Push going to be offering an 11-6 for the Shred Dogg?
    I had been under the impression that the Push elevenSix was already available in SD sizing, but I don't see it listed. Still, given that every Push shock is pretty much custom I can't imagine that Darren & co wouldn't be able to accommodate. Last time I checked the Ohlins coil was not yet available in that size either - but it might be an option in the future as well.

    I'd love to see a comparison between those two sometime... (maybe including the SD Coil as a baseline)

  90. #1390
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    Quote Originally Posted by 2zmtnz View Post
    straight from 9pint 8's FAQ:

    Absolutely! Any post can have the stroke reduced by addition of our spacers (available on our parts page in a range of lengths) . These spacers can be installed by the factory or can be purchased separately and installed by the user (brake release tool required).

    Note: spacers reduce the overall length of the post and stroke by the same amount.
    Awesome - thanks!

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  92. #1392
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    Guerilla Gravity Megatrail. Any Thoughts?

    Quote Originally Posted by Khai View Post
    I had been under the impression that the Push elevenSix was already available in SD sizing, but I don't see it listed. Still, given that every Push shock is pretty much custom I can't imagine that Darren & co wouldn't be able to accommodate. Last time I checked the Ohlins coil was not yet available in that size either - but it might be an option in the future as well.

    I'd love to see a comparison between those two sometime... (maybe including the SD Coil as a baseline)
    Iím going to order an 11-6 soon as they are available.

    Tonight I got fitted for my bike in shred dogg trail mode. I have it setup as the same measurements as my old HD3, and it turns out it was a bad baselineóthis is how different the bikes fit.

    I ended up ordering an SQLab 12 degree handlebar out of it, and going to end up trying the ruffian grips to see if that helps with the hand fatigue I get. Not related to GG at all but to riding on tougher terrain and dealing with older injuries.

    With the new fit, I ended up with a longer seatpost than I started with in the sense I had to raise it 40mm. Now 3in of post is actually showing. Not sure if that means I can fit a Transfer or 9point8 in there now, but there might be hope.



    I didnít opt to try to get fitted for seated pedaling with it in gravity mode because I donít expect to be pedaling it much in gravity mode.

    Iíll know more on Sunday how the bike pedals with the fit.

    And yes, those are big ass pedals (pedaling innovation(: until I get used to my prescription orthotics for flat feet, this is what I have for trail riding. For dirt jumps and DH, I use straitline de factos.

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    The stock RS Deluxe on my SD isn't cutting it. If it set the rebound slow, then it's very harsh and if I set it fast, then it tries to send me OTB.

    Since I'm getting old and lazy ;-), I just can't bring myself to add a pound of coil shock to an already semi-portly bike. So, I ordered a DVO Topaz from GG who gave a great price on it.

    I'm stoked to get it and ride the living hell out of it.
    Riding Washington State singletrack since 1986

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    Guerilla Gravity Megatrail. Any Thoughts?

    Quote Originally Posted by Khai View Post
    I paid for the RideLogic bike...
    So how does this service works? Is it an online calculator or does someone actually help you through the process??

    I would need some help understanding their rational since I threw some RAD numbers around based on what I understood from the article and depending on which bar / stem combo I assume either large or medium works.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Curveball View Post
    The stock RS Deluxe on my SD isn't cutting it. If it set the rebound slow, then it's very harsh and if I set it fast, then it tries to send me OTB.

    Since I'm getting old and lazy ;-), I just can't bring myself to add a pound of coil shock to an already semi-portly bike. So, I ordered a DVO Topaz from GG who gave a great price on it.

    I'm stoked to get it and ride the living hell out of it.
    Not enough clicks of adjustment between too fast and too slow?


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

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    Quote Originally Posted by Apolonios View Post
    So how does this service works? Is it an online calculator or does someone actually help you through the process??

    I would need some help understanding their rational since I threw some RAD numbers around based on what I understood from the article and depending on which bar / stem combo I assume either large or medium works.
    There are a few ways to do it. The cheapest is to just get a $19 one-month subscription to the members-area of his website. It has a variety of Ridelogic calculators, which let you compare the actual RAD of different bike frames (and stem/bar combos), and estimate your RAD and and bar width from your body measurements. I found it useful to just get a better idea of where I stood, and what types of frames would work for me (and which just won't).

    http://www.llbmtb.com/ridelogic-bike-setup-system/

    He also does in person and remote-but-consulted fit services, if you were having trouble. The other content on his site is really good too - it is much of the same stuff as in the newest version of Mastering Mountain Bike Skills, but with embedded videos and whatnot. I've found it useful.

    And you might well find that if your sizing falls between two sizes, and the smaller may work with a longer stem and normal bar, and the larger works with a shorter stem and a swept bar.

  97. #1397
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    Quote Originally Posted by Curveball View Post
    The stock RS Deluxe on my SD isn't cutting it. If it set the rebound slow, then it's very harsh and if I set it fast, then it tries to send me OTB.

    Since I'm getting old and lazy ;-), I just can't bring myself to add a pound of coil shock to an already semi-portly bike. So, I ordered a DVO Topaz from GG who gave a great price on it.

    I'm stoked to get it and ride the living hell out of it.
    What made you decide on the Topaz vs other air shocks? Iím looking myself, and debating on that vs the 11-6. Mainly because I suck with air shocks.

  98. #1398
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    Quote Originally Posted by stripes View Post
    What made you decide on the Topaz vs other air shocks? Iím looking myself, and debating on that vs the 11-6. Mainly because I suck with air shocks.
    I've never really gotten on with RS products and the Topaz reviews here on MTBR are stellar. Also, DVO are a bunch of former Marzocchi guys and I'm a huge Marz fan from way back.
    Riding Washington State singletrack since 1986

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    Guerilla Gravity Megatrail. Any Thoughts?

    Quote Originally Posted by Curveball View Post
    I've never really gotten on with RS products and the Topaz reviews here on MTBR are stellar. Also, DVO are a bunch of former Marzocchi guys and I'm a huge Marz fan from way back.
    Iíve been good with the Lyrik as far as an air fork (especially after i took out the tokens) is concerned but Iím not fond of air suspension by its performance. But coil is heavy. And I agree that the super delux (both air and coil) leave a lot to be desired on this bike. On the ventana ciclon I had, the RS air shock I had (predecessor to the air super delux) was a good fit. But for the SD/MT, itís a good baseline. Just canít fine tune things the way I want.

    That said, Iím splitting hairs. This bike is amazing. I rode it, all 32 lbs of it, on a trail ride for 8 miles yesterday, and i couldíve kept going. I was able to make climbs on it, and it descends amazing.

    This was all in SD trail mode with a -1 works headset.



    While it wasnít a horribly technical trail, for me, it was relatively technical, but the Shred Dogg made everything enjoying and rideable.

    Except some technical climbing ledgy sections, but thatís on me not on the bike.

    It was like riding a weight training mountain goat uphill. Strong and could climb the walls if the rider can.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Curveball View Post
    I've never really gotten on with RS products and the Topaz reviews here on MTBR are stellar. Also, DVO are a bunch of former Marzocchi guys and I'm a huge Marz fan from way back.
    Me too ! The Marzo Z1 FR was a freaking beast. Dual cartridge, dual coil spring. 2.6kg of awesomeness ! Mine is still being ridden on my old Chromag back in France. And my cousin still has the original Z1 (the orange one), on a hardtail too.

    Side note, I took my MT on pedally sessions this weekend. After countless weekends of riding parks and enduro races, it feels good to pedal and not thinking too much. The MT is not a tank by any means when it comes to eating 35 miles of mellow singletrack. Which is insane considering how hard you can go on this thing in bike park mode.
    It replaced an Evil calling earlier this year, and I still cannot believe how versatile the MT is. You would think the Calling, which is a shorter travel carbon bike, would be a better climber, but no! The MT (in full strength mode), is a true do-it-all machine!
    French line enthusiast and expat in Denver

    I like bikes, I really do.

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