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  1. #1
    Slowly but surely...
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    Original i-Drive riders still out there?

    I picked up a 2001 XCR-1000 frame a couple years back. It sustained the typical seatpost crack with less than 100 miles on it and had been replaced on warranty and the guy had kept the old frame. I had it re-welded and have been riding it ever since and love it. It's my fourth full-susser and by far my favorite. It was also one of the last US made bikes before the bankruptcy.
    Anyhow, it's a great climber, great for XC and a great all around bike. I even use it for commuting. But I never see anyone else around here on one, which makes me wonder, how many people are still out there on the original i-drive design?

    Here's my baby (though I blew the SID rear and now have a 5th Element on there)
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    The secret to mountain biking is pretty simple. The slower you go the more likely it is you'll crash.
    - Juli Furtado

  2. #2
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    I still rock the old eccentric iDrive system on my freeride bike. It's an '05 Ruckus 2.0 and still rides like new going into six years old. Pretty impressive i think.
    This is an older photo. She's had a few upgrades since and has shed a few grams.
    I'm Ron Burgundy?

  3. #3
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    nice! freeriding usually takes more guts than I have. I mostly stick to the XC stuff, but I've played a few times.(It probably doesn't help that I'm getting older and think more about how much a crash would hurt than I used to)
    The secret to mountain biking is pretty simple. The slower you go the more likely it is you'll crash.
    - Juli Furtado

  4. #4
    Recogonize.
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    I had an old xcr 4000 frame I built up years ago. Loved the way it rode. Like eatyapees, I sold the bike and bought a Stinky for freeriding.
    "We're gonna need a bigger boat."

  5. #5
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    My 99 xcr is still my main off road bike. I rarely see anyone on a GT, let alone an old GT.

  6. #6
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    my 99 is still going strong
    I always type in bold cuz I'm blind as a bat
    For the Rich there is therapy!!!! for the rest of us we have Mountain Biking


  7. #7
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    I just picked up a 2001 I-Drive off of CL for 50$.

    Granted, it's the 6.0, so the lowest end, but it is still great for 50$ I have big plans for this baby. I'll try posting pictures sometime soon.

    Update: Heres some photos. I can't believe I got this for 50$. This is why I prowl craigslist daily! it finally paid off!




    She has seen better days, but she also has better days ahead.
    Last edited by Buggyr333; 01-23-2011 at 11:17 AM.

  8. #8
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    I still rock my 2000 XCR 3000 on the trails. Until recently it was my main mountain bike! Now I rock two other GTs.
    Quote Originally Posted by forkboy
    And don't be scared to walk. Walking is one of the mystical 3 gears of Single Speed.

    Sit
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    Walk.

  9. #9
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    2001 I-Drive race still going strong

    My 2001 i-drive race is used as a back up bike to a Giant Trance X2 but I love the i-drive design from an engineering standpoint. Just added some new wheels and tires (well new to this bike!!). I rebuilt the whole bike 2 years ago.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Original i-Drive riders still out there?-img_0226-large-.jpg  


  10. #10
    Recogonize.
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    nice bike and neighborhood steve. buggy, nice find for 50 bucks!
    "We're gonna need a bigger boat."

  11. #11
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    Raukman, I love the finish. Is it just the polished aluminum and did it come that way or did you do it? May have to give that a try sometime.

    Buggy, I'll give you $55 for that bike. I need a new ride for my wife and you just made me totally jealous.

    Steve, A Trance and a i-Drive race? Lucky! I still need to figure out how to convince my wife that more than 1 bike at a time is a good thing.
    The secret to mountain biking is pretty simple. The slower you go the more likely it is you'll crash.
    - Juli Furtado

  12. #12
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    Nice I-Drives!!!!!

    I rode an loved mine until it cracked in the winter of '08-'09

    XCR1500
    Bikin' Bric's Bike Blog

    2012 Norco CCX3
    2014 Nashbar Fat Bike
    2016 Norco Torrent

  13. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by fmdj
    Raukman, I love the finish. Is it just the polished aluminum and did it come that way or did you do it? May have to give that a try sometime.

    Buggy, I'll give you $55 for that bike. I need a new ride for my wife and you just made me totally jealous.

    Steve, A Trance and a i-Drive race? Lucky! I still need to figure out how to convince my wife that more than 1 bike at a time is a good thing.
    Its a ball burnish real easy to polish up , there is a thread here in GT section were a guy stripped and polished his zaskar up.
    Here is a pick from my shiny fetish
    I always type in bold cuz I'm blind as a bat
    For the Rich there is therapy!!!! for the rest of us we have Mountain Biking


  14. #14
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    Quote Originally Posted by Rakuman
    Its a ball burnish real easy to polish up , there is a thread here in GT section were a guy stripped and polished his zaskar up.
    Here is a pick from my shiny fetish
    I think I just got drool on my keyboard
    The secret to mountain biking is pretty simple. The slower you go the more likely it is you'll crash.
    - Juli Furtado

  15. #15
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    2001 GT I Drive Timberline - Upgraded

    One of my favorites! Has treated me well for 5 years now.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Original i-Drive riders still out there?-imag0376.1.jpg  


  16. #16
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    Another 2001 Timberline I-Drive
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Original i-Drive riders still out there?-timberlines7301211.jpg  


  17. #17
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    Here's mine. 2001 model? Has XT components(LX crank) RS Judy Race, and SID rear. Looks like crap, and I'm upgrading the brakes to disk. Picked it up for $200.00 about a month ago. I like it!

  18. #18
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    Holy crap!!! Fun for all. Still rockin the '01 iDrive 4.0. The only stock component left is the rear spring. Got it down well below 27 lbs and I'm guessing it probably has almost 5000 miles on it.

    I've ridden every subsequent iDrive design and this one still delivers a firmer ride and better feel for XC. Seems the newer ones are designed around shocks with platforms. This one didn't need it.

    This one grew up in rocky/rooty Ct. and now resides in flowy Georgia. Love it to deth.





    '01 iDrive 4.0 Frame
    '05 Manitou Black Super Air SPV 80
    American Classic hubs, Mavic x317s with Wheelsmith DB14s and alu nipples
    Mix of '04 - '05 Shimano LX and XT
    Square taper '04 Truvativ Firex SLs
    IRC Mibros 2.25/2.1 with Stans
    Maxm MX-6 bars, ODI Ruffian Lockons
    990 Cassette
    Bontrager Race 2014 post, WTB Rocket V ProGel (don't make these anymore)

    Overall, just a *****in bike. Like I said...I've tried just about everything else and this one rides better than almost all of them. I'll be upgrading the bars soon since these are about 5 years past their service life. Other than that, rock on!


    AJ
    "Stop smirking. It's irritating" - Judge Judy

  19. #19
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    idrive Team

    I got an '01 idrive team on CL a couple years ago. I was just beginning to love it and the bearings went on the eccentric pivot. I can't find replacements anywhere! Grrr. Any ideas?

  20. #20
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    I have a set

    Quote Originally Posted by jxp356
    I got an '01 idrive team on CL a couple years ago. I was just beginning to love it and the bearings went on the eccentric pivot. I can't find replacements anywhere! Grrr. Any ideas?
    Drop me an email. I have an installed but unused set. If yer local I can install em too.

    Mcseforsale.at.yahoodotcom

    AJ
    "Stop smirking. It's irritating" - Judge Judy

  21. #21
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    Here is an update on my 2001 GT Idrive 6.0 that I scored for 50$ In January with all the stock components.
    Well here it is a few months later, with Many upgrades:
    -RS Tora 302 85-135mm Uturn fork
    -Fox Float Rear shock
    -Deore XT Rd
    -Deore XT Crankset
    -Shimano Gripshifter (only rear, 1x8 setup)
    -Wellgo DH pedals
    -Sette Venn seatpost
    -WTB rocket V saddle
    -WTB Wolverine 2.2 tires
    -ESI chunky black grips
    -FSA Gravity bars
    -XTR V brakes

    Wheelset is next on the upgrade list.




    (for when it gets mucky out, rear fender was improvised from a broken old front one)

  22. #22
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    Quote Originally Posted by Buggyr333
    Here is an update on my 2001 GT Idrive 6.0 ..........
    Did you happen to weigh the frame when you had it all stripped down?

  23. #23
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    No, I didn't have it all stripped down at once (gradual upgrades) But I'm guessing it's somewhere around 7 or 8lbs. (Idrive 6.0 and Idrive Timberline have slightly heavier frames than the 5.0 and up. The seat tube mounting is more robust, which I think will make it last longer in the long run since that's what cracks on the higher end frames.)

  24. #24
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    Buggy, that looks great!

  25. #25
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    Quote Originally Posted by Buggyr333
    No, I didn't have it all stripped down at once (gradual upgrades) But I'm guessing it's somewhere around 7 or 8lbs. (Idrive 6.0 and Idrive Timberline have slightly heavier frames than the 5.0 and up. The seat tube mounting is more robust, which I think will make it last longer in the long run since that's what cracks on the higher end frames.)
    I asked because I've upgraded gradually as well. Never had the frame naked. My 99 XCR has the same main triangle as your 2001, with slight differences to the rear triangle.

  26. #26
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    Quote Originally Posted by Buggyr333
    No, I didn't have it all stripped down at once (gradual upgrades) But I'm guessing it's somewhere around 7 or 8lbs. (Idrive 6.0 and Idrive Timberline have slightly heavier frames than the 5.0 and up. The seat tube mounting is more robust, which I think will make it last longer in the long run since that's what cracks on the higher end frames.)
    I asked because I've upgraded gradually as well. Never had the frame naked. My 99 XCR has the same main triangle as your 2001, with slight differences to the rear triangle.

  27. #27
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    Hope OK, Don't make fun but....

    here ya go. I used to hang out here heavily. I never had to report my frame because the iDrive 1.0-4.0 are the same. The 5.0-6.0 are the same and the Race and Team are the same. Here's yer listing....

    http://weightweenies.starbike.com/li...spensionframes


    AJ


    Quote Originally Posted by bme107
    I asked because I've upgraded gradually as well. Never had the frame naked. My 99 XCR has the same main triangle as your 2001, with slight differences to the rear triangle.
    "Stop smirking. It's irritating" - Judge Judy

  28. #28
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    3540g in XL, so my LG would be somewhere around 7.5 lbs. My guess was right on the money.

  29. #29
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    Nice job Buggy! Ya know,you've got disc tabs on there.

    You've spent a lot on that bike but in my opinion,that frame is worth it.

    Funny, when my neighbor gave me that beat Timberline I-Drive, I politely thanked him and wheeled it into my shed and figured I'd save the BB7's and just put the bike in the trash a few months later. LOL Now,it's my favorite ride! I've ridden it in the past when it was in good operating condition and it never impressed me. The short stem 24" wide bars and 80mm fork on it made it scary on the chunky downhills. It was way too twitchy. Now, with the 26" bars,130mm fork and longer stem,it feels much better going down. It's not quite as stable going down as my 68 degree Jamis XLT, but it's close.

  30. #30
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    Quote Originally Posted by bigbeck
    Nice job Buggy! Ya know,you've got disc tabs on there.

    You've spent a lot on that bike but in my opinion,that frame is worth it.
    Yeah, the disk tabs are tempting, but at the moment I am enjoying the bling factor of XTR v brakes. And on top of that I don't have disk hubs yet, and if I were to have disks i'd have the ugly studs on the fork sticking out.

    As far as spending alot, I actually haven't spent much at all on it. Probably right around the 400$ to 500$ mark, with the initial cost of the bike included. Most of the parts I either had lying around, took off another of my bikes, or got for very cheap. The only exception is the fork which ran me about 200$. Brakes came from a bike I had lying around, as did the bars and saddle. and most of the other parts were cheap from a bike swap meet.

  31. #31
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    I asked this in another thread with no answers, so I figured I would ask here.
    Does anyone know what the difference in performance between the old eccentric idrive system and the newer system seen on the more modern gt bikes? or did they just change the system to make it more user friendly and lighter?

  32. #32
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    I've ridden most of the new designs...

    I think there were a couple of primary design philosophies when they started with the re-design.

    First, the original one with the eccentric was very complicated and difficult to manufacture. With the giant bearings they had to use and all the complex machining (just take a good hard look at your eccentric from a mechanical perspective..) to produce the parts, it wasn't sustainable I don't think. Plus, the new designs use far less parts, creating far less exposure to support issues.

    Second, I think all the newer designs were built with different shock rates to make them MORE active and use platform shocks, whereas the original ones were designed when platform shocks weren't around yet...thus making the design and rates of the suspension responsible for the platform.

    With that said, I still prefer the original iDrive for most trail riding. I'm sure the new ones are more betterer at other things, but without all the platforms engaged, the new ones feel too squishy for me...which is why I liked the iDrive in the first place.

    AJ



    Quote Originally Posted by Buggyr333
    I asked this in another thread with no answers, so I figured I would ask here.
    Does anyone know what the difference in performance between the old eccentric idrive system and the newer system seen on the more modern gt bikes? or did they just change the system to make it more user friendly and lighter?
    "Stop smirking. It's irritating" - Judge Judy

  33. #33
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    Quote Originally Posted by 2sonmike
    Here's mine. 2001 model? Has XT components(LX crank) RS Judy Race, and SID rear. Looks like crap, and I'm upgrading the brakes to disk. Picked it up for $200.00 about a month ago. I like it!
    Looks like a 2000 model XCR3000. And I'd lower that seatpost/get a longer one ASAP.

  34. #34
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    Quote Originally Posted by Buggyr333
    Yeah, the disk tabs are tempting, but at the moment I am enjoying the bling factor of XTR v brakes. And on top of that I don't have disk hubs yet, and if I were to have disks i'd have the ugly studs on the fork sticking out.
    Unscrew the studs and put rubber plugs in the holes. The main reason I changed to discs is because I got tired of my rims wearing out from the abrasive type dirt that I ride in. My rims used to split at the braking track in only one season of riding. I remember wearing a set of pads out in one 1.5 hour ride. It was raining hard and the soil had a high Mica content. The braking surface was cupped pretty badly too. A few rides later,the braking tracks started to split and fold over. I got tired of this and have been using discs for the past 6 years with no unusual wear problems.

    Today, V-brakes would probably work much better for me as I almost never ride when the trails are wet. Dirt with a high sand content, plus water, equals a very effective grinding compound. It also grinds up the the drivetrain prematurely.

  35. #35
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    Quote Originally Posted by bigbeck
    Unscrew the studs and put rubber plugs in the holes. The main reason I changed to discs is because I got tired of my rims wearing out from the abrasive type dirt that I ride in. My rims used to split at the braking track in only one season of riding. I remember wearing a set of pads out in one 1.5 hour ride. It was raining hard and the soil had a high Mica content. The braking surface was cupped pretty badly too. A few rides later,the braking tracks started to split and fold over. I got tired of this and have been using discs for the past 6 years with no unusual wear problems.

    Today, V-brakes would probably work much better for me as I almost never ride when the trails are wet. Dirt with a high sand content, plus water, equals a very effective grinding compound. It also grinds up the the drivetrain prematurely.
    Well even if I unscrew the bosses themselves, there's still an inch long cone sticking out on both sides. And my xtr's work fine, my environment is mostly dry (Southern California), and I've never had problems with my rims grinding away. And besides, I don't like disks all that much, I'm not too good at getting adjusted quite right. I have one bike with Avid BB7's and one with Juicy 7's. While I like how easy it is to adjust the bb7s to not scrape the rotors, I always have to pull the lever all the way to the grip to skid, and while the Juicys offer excellent stopping power, I cannot get them to stop scraping the rotors.

    So I'll stick with my XTR v brakes. I just enjoy how easy they are. And they're a conversation piece on the trail "Oh those look really interesting, what are the benefits to that design?" blablablah.

    And btw, with my most recent upgrades, I am loving the living hell out of my idrive. I don't know if I like it more than my 29ers, But definitely have a whole lot more fun on it than I did when I first got it.

  36. #36
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    I2k

    I2K with some old parts thrown on....
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Original i-Drive riders still out there?-i2k3.jpg  


  37. #37
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    Quote Originally Posted by Buggyr333
    While I like how easy it is to adjust the bb7s to not scrape the rotors, I always have to pull the lever all the way to the grip to skid
    Well, I have BB7's on two of my bikes, including the I-drive. Either your cable housings are very worn and/or are compressing or the inner or outer pads are not adjusted properly. I'm assuming the calipers are aligned with the discs. The stopping power should be close to the hydraulics - just need more hand pressure.

    With the BB7's set up properly, you should be able to skid or put yourself over the bars with say, only a 1/2" movement of the levers. Also, you should never use the barrel adjusters on your levers to adjust those brakes. Adjustment should be at the pads only. Keep the inner pad as close to the rotor as possible and use the outer pad to control the distance your lever travels before the brakes lock up. You can make your BB7's lock up anywhere within the lever travel using this method. If that doesn't work, then the problem lies with the cables or housing or contaminated pads/rotors.

  38. #38
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    Quote Originally Posted by bigbeck
    Well, I have BB7's on two of my bikes, including the I-drive. Either your cable housings are very worn and/or are compressing or the inner or outer pads are not adjusted properly. I'm assuming the calipers are aligned with the discs. The stopping power should be close to the hydraulics - just need more hand pressure.
    It's none of that, it's actually because the rotors are warped, since the design relies on the flexing of the rotor to get any stopping power. They weren't like that at first, I just use that bike a whole lot, and can't justify the price of new rotors for the time being, since I can still skid the bike fine, it just needs more lever movement than the average bike.

  39. #39
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    Just finished building it!

    Literally just finished building this 2005 I-drive 2.0 for my brother. Enjoy!





    Quote Originally Posted by forkboy
    And don't be scared to walk. Walking is one of the mystical 3 gears of Single Speed.

    Sit
    Stand
    Walk.

  40. #40
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    I believe my bike is an early GT i-drive. bought it at a local pawn shop for $400. The frame style is sililar to these early 2000's GT's. My frame is a real shiney coper color. It came with a fox vanilla fork and a float RL in the rear also looks to be converted to hayes hydrolic discs. NO stickers can anybody tell me how to identify it? I am looking to exchange/upgrade a few parts but the bike rides real nice for me as is

  41. #41
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    Quote Originally Posted by iradi8 View Post
    I believe my bike is an early GT i-drive. bought it at a local pawn shop for $400. The frame style is sililar to these early 2000's GT's. My frame is a real shiney coper color. It came with a fox vanilla fork and a float RL in the rear also looks to be converted to hayes hydrolic discs. NO stickers can anybody tell me how to identify it? I am looking to exchange/upgrade a few parts but the bike rides real nice for me as is
    I'm sure with some good pictures it could be identified.

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    yeah I think so too but since I am new I cant start a new thread until 5 posts. This is #3

  43. #43
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    Quote Originally Posted by iradi8 View Post
    yeah I think so too but since I am new I cant start a new thread until 5 posts. This is #3
    then reply to this post .

    and the next one.

  44. #44
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    Quote Originally Posted by trauma-md View Post
    I2K with some old parts thrown on....
    Nice ride! So what gives? Was this a special addition? It looks almost identical to a bike I speacial ordered in 2000'. Mine was an XCR-LE which also had the same GT Race blue yellow paint scheme and hand made frame at the Sana Ana plant. Made from Easton 6061 taper walled aluminum. Which shaved a pound off of any other I-drive offered in the 4.6" travel. Yours looks like it may have less travel than that. What year and model is that? Yours is obviously the same Easton tubing and from the same plant hence the "ping pong padel" decal on the seat tower which signified hand made Easton 6061 aluminum which only these frames received.
    Last edited by DIRTJUNKIE; 07-02-2011 at 08:14 PM.

  45. #45
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    My 01 iDrive Race Rocks it like NO OTHER!
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Original i-Drive riders still out there?-933914_10200776644645837_425446189_n.jpg  

    Original i-Drive riders still out there?-933914_10200776644605836_51502507_n.jpg  

    Last edited by y33dave; 02-26-2014 at 01:02 PM.
    Live
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    SPIN

  46. #46
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    Great to see the ol i-drives still kick it. As soon as I take a one of my 1999 xcr-1000 i'll post it.

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    Not for much longer...

    I'm afraid the last holdout of my eccentric-era stable has succumbed to the dreaded seatpost mast failure, fourth or fifth one for me. Too bad, this had been a great frame thus far, been my daily commuter/'road bike' for a few years now. It was an '04 Pro model, lightweight short-travel version. The rear triangle broke about a year ago but I was able to find a take-off from a 1.0 or 2.0 version and keep it going, with a bit more travel thanks to different lower shock mount. It's super plush and comfy with a 6.75x1.25" shock and 130mm coil Revelation (both Push'd), kept me pedalling through the endless NorCal winter when all the trails were too muddy to ride... it has served well.

    I'm convinced that opening/closing the seatpost q/r is what does these frames in; this one, and my last 1.0 had extra material added in the problem zone and held up much longer than my first generation iDrives did for sure. But I learned to monitor and check regularly and sure enough, just like my 1.0 this one was fine one minute and cracked after removing and reinstalling the post. If you're still riding one of these I'd recommend running a bolt-type clamp instead of a quick release, and only adjust if absolutely necessary.

    Alas, unless I find a screamin' deal on a replacement eccentric frame it looks like this one will be upgraded to ID-style soon, I'll just nurse as many commutes out of it as possible in the meantime. Farewell old friend, thanks for the rides!
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Original i-Drive riders still out there?-jul11-101.jpg  

    Original i-Drive riders still out there?-jul11-103.jpg  


  48. #48
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    Jul 2011
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    Seems to be lots of good info in here, and some sweet bikes! I've got a couple questions for those of you who are familiar with these give me some input as to this possible craigslist project...

    "This is just the frame, It is a size medium, it is missing the i-drive bearings but otherwise would make a good project bike. Asking $50"

    i'm not sure how expensive / difficult replacing the bearings is (still researching), but would this be an alright frame to build off of or do you think i'd be better off scrounging craigslist more...

    edit: can't post pics/link yet but heres the link minus http with a pic in it: ://kalamazoo.craigslist.org/bik/2482418296.html

    sorry for the noob post and thanks for any info!

  49. #49
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    Quote Originally Posted by GTfreefall View Post
    One of my favorites! Has treated me well for 5 years now.
    Over look at Tasali, NC
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Original i-Drive riders still out there?-imag0424.jpg  


  50. #50
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    I have a 98 STS xcr 2000 I still ride. Bone stock except for the seat. Thinking of lightening it up a bit. Anyone done a recent build on one of these frames? Wondering how light I could go.

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