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  1. #1
    Slowly but surely...
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    Original i-Drive riders still out there?

    I picked up a 2001 XCR-1000 frame a couple years back. It sustained the typical seatpost crack with less than 100 miles on it and had been replaced on warranty and the guy had kept the old frame. I had it re-welded and have been riding it ever since and love it. It's my fourth full-susser and by far my favorite. It was also one of the last US made bikes before the bankruptcy.
    Anyhow, it's a great climber, great for XC and a great all around bike. I even use it for commuting. But I never see anyone else around here on one, which makes me wonder, how many people are still out there on the original i-drive design?

    Here's my baby (though I blew the SID rear and now have a 5th Element on there)
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    The secret to mountain biking is pretty simple. The slower you go the more likely it is you'll crash.
    - Juli Furtado

  2. #2
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    I still rock the old eccentric iDrive system on my freeride bike. It's an '05 Ruckus 2.0 and still rides like new going into six years old. Pretty impressive i think.
    This is an older photo. She's had a few upgrades since and has shed a few grams.
    I'm Ron Burgundy?

  3. #3
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    nice! freeriding usually takes more guts than I have. I mostly stick to the XC stuff, but I've played a few times.(It probably doesn't help that I'm getting older and think more about how much a crash would hurt than I used to)
    The secret to mountain biking is pretty simple. The slower you go the more likely it is you'll crash.
    - Juli Furtado

  4. #4
    Recogonize.
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    I had an old xcr 4000 frame I built up years ago. Loved the way it rode. Like eatyapees, I sold the bike and bought a Stinky for freeriding.
    "We're gonna need a bigger boat."

  5. #5
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    My 99 xcr is still my main off road bike. I rarely see anyone on a GT, let alone an old GT.

  6. #6
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    my 99 is still going strong
    I always type in bold cuz I'm blind as a bat
    For the Rich there is therapy!!!! for the rest of us we have Mountain Biking


  7. #7
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    I just picked up a 2001 I-Drive off of CL for 50$.

    Granted, it's the 6.0, so the lowest end, but it is still great for 50$ I have big plans for this baby. I'll try posting pictures sometime soon.

    Update: Heres some photos. I can't believe I got this for 50$. This is why I prowl craigslist daily! it finally paid off!




    She has seen better days, but she also has better days ahead.
    Last edited by Buggyr333; 01-23-2011 at 11:17 AM.

  8. #8
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    I still rock my 2000 XCR 3000 on the trails. Until recently it was my main mountain bike! Now I rock two other GTs.
    Quote Originally Posted by forkboy
    And don't be scared to walk. Walking is one of the mystical 3 gears of Single Speed.

    Sit
    Stand
    Walk.

  9. #9
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    2001 I-Drive race still going strong

    My 2001 i-drive race is used as a back up bike to a Giant Trance X2 but I love the i-drive design from an engineering standpoint. Just added some new wheels and tires (well new to this bike!!). I rebuilt the whole bike 2 years ago.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Original i-Drive riders still out there?-img_0226-large-.jpg  


  10. #10
    Recogonize.
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    nice bike and neighborhood steve. buggy, nice find for 50 bucks!
    "We're gonna need a bigger boat."

  11. #11
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    Raukman, I love the finish. Is it just the polished aluminum and did it come that way or did you do it? May have to give that a try sometime.

    Buggy, I'll give you $55 for that bike. I need a new ride for my wife and you just made me totally jealous.

    Steve, A Trance and a i-Drive race? Lucky! I still need to figure out how to convince my wife that more than 1 bike at a time is a good thing.
    The secret to mountain biking is pretty simple. The slower you go the more likely it is you'll crash.
    - Juli Furtado

  12. #12
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    Nice I-Drives!!!!!

    I rode an loved mine until it cracked in the winter of '08-'09

    XCR1500
    Bikin' Bric's Bike Blog

    2012 Norco CCX3
    2014 Nashbar Fat Bike
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  13. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by fmdj
    Raukman, I love the finish. Is it just the polished aluminum and did it come that way or did you do it? May have to give that a try sometime.

    Buggy, I'll give you $55 for that bike. I need a new ride for my wife and you just made me totally jealous.

    Steve, A Trance and a i-Drive race? Lucky! I still need to figure out how to convince my wife that more than 1 bike at a time is a good thing.
    Its a ball burnish real easy to polish up , there is a thread here in GT section were a guy stripped and polished his zaskar up.
    Here is a pick from my shiny fetish
    I always type in bold cuz I'm blind as a bat
    For the Rich there is therapy!!!! for the rest of us we have Mountain Biking


  14. #14
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    Quote Originally Posted by Rakuman
    Its a ball burnish real easy to polish up , there is a thread here in GT section were a guy stripped and polished his zaskar up.
    Here is a pick from my shiny fetish
    I think I just got drool on my keyboard
    The secret to mountain biking is pretty simple. The slower you go the more likely it is you'll crash.
    - Juli Furtado

  15. #15
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    2001 GT I Drive Timberline - Upgraded

    One of my favorites! Has treated me well for 5 years now.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Original i-Drive riders still out there?-imag0376.1.jpg  


  16. #16
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    Another 2001 Timberline I-Drive
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Original i-Drive riders still out there?-timberlines7301211.jpg  


  17. #17
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    Here's mine. 2001 model? Has XT components(LX crank) RS Judy Race, and SID rear. Looks like crap, and I'm upgrading the brakes to disk. Picked it up for $200.00 about a month ago. I like it!

  18. #18
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    Holy crap!!! Fun for all. Still rockin the '01 iDrive 4.0. The only stock component left is the rear spring. Got it down well below 27 lbs and I'm guessing it probably has almost 5000 miles on it.

    I've ridden every subsequent iDrive design and this one still delivers a firmer ride and better feel for XC. Seems the newer ones are designed around shocks with platforms. This one didn't need it.

    This one grew up in rocky/rooty Ct. and now resides in flowy Georgia. Love it to deth.





    '01 iDrive 4.0 Frame
    '05 Manitou Black Super Air SPV 80
    American Classic hubs, Mavic x317s with Wheelsmith DB14s and alu nipples
    Mix of '04 - '05 Shimano LX and XT
    Square taper '04 Truvativ Firex SLs
    IRC Mibros 2.25/2.1 with Stans
    Maxm MX-6 bars, ODI Ruffian Lockons
    990 Cassette
    Bontrager Race 2014 post, WTB Rocket V ProGel (don't make these anymore)

    Overall, just a *****in bike. Like I said...I've tried just about everything else and this one rides better than almost all of them. I'll be upgrading the bars soon since these are about 5 years past their service life. Other than that, rock on!


    AJ
    "Stop smirking. It's irritating" - Judge Judy

  19. #19
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    idrive Team

    I got an '01 idrive team on CL a couple years ago. I was just beginning to love it and the bearings went on the eccentric pivot. I can't find replacements anywhere! Grrr. Any ideas?

  20. #20
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    I have a set

    Quote Originally Posted by jxp356
    I got an '01 idrive team on CL a couple years ago. I was just beginning to love it and the bearings went on the eccentric pivot. I can't find replacements anywhere! Grrr. Any ideas?
    Drop me an email. I have an installed but unused set. If yer local I can install em too.

    Mcseforsale.at.yahoodotcom

    AJ
    "Stop smirking. It's irritating" - Judge Judy

  21. #21
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    Here is an update on my 2001 GT Idrive 6.0 that I scored for 50$ In January with all the stock components.
    Well here it is a few months later, with Many upgrades:
    -RS Tora 302 85-135mm Uturn fork
    -Fox Float Rear shock
    -Deore XT Rd
    -Deore XT Crankset
    -Shimano Gripshifter (only rear, 1x8 setup)
    -Wellgo DH pedals
    -Sette Venn seatpost
    -WTB rocket V saddle
    -WTB Wolverine 2.2 tires
    -ESI chunky black grips
    -FSA Gravity bars
    -XTR V brakes

    Wheelset is next on the upgrade list.




    (for when it gets mucky out, rear fender was improvised from a broken old front one)

  22. #22
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    Quote Originally Posted by Buggyr333
    Here is an update on my 2001 GT Idrive 6.0 ..........
    Did you happen to weigh the frame when you had it all stripped down?

  23. #23
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    No, I didn't have it all stripped down at once (gradual upgrades) But I'm guessing it's somewhere around 7 or 8lbs. (Idrive 6.0 and Idrive Timberline have slightly heavier frames than the 5.0 and up. The seat tube mounting is more robust, which I think will make it last longer in the long run since that's what cracks on the higher end frames.)

  24. #24
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    Buggy, that looks great!

  25. #25
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    Quote Originally Posted by Buggyr333
    No, I didn't have it all stripped down at once (gradual upgrades) But I'm guessing it's somewhere around 7 or 8lbs. (Idrive 6.0 and Idrive Timberline have slightly heavier frames than the 5.0 and up. The seat tube mounting is more robust, which I think will make it last longer in the long run since that's what cracks on the higher end frames.)
    I asked because I've upgraded gradually as well. Never had the frame naked. My 99 XCR has the same main triangle as your 2001, with slight differences to the rear triangle.

  26. #26
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    Quote Originally Posted by Buggyr333
    No, I didn't have it all stripped down at once (gradual upgrades) But I'm guessing it's somewhere around 7 or 8lbs. (Idrive 6.0 and Idrive Timberline have slightly heavier frames than the 5.0 and up. The seat tube mounting is more robust, which I think will make it last longer in the long run since that's what cracks on the higher end frames.)
    I asked because I've upgraded gradually as well. Never had the frame naked. My 99 XCR has the same main triangle as your 2001, with slight differences to the rear triangle.

  27. #27
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    Hope OK, Don't make fun but....

    here ya go. I used to hang out here heavily. I never had to report my frame because the iDrive 1.0-4.0 are the same. The 5.0-6.0 are the same and the Race and Team are the same. Here's yer listing....

    http://weightweenies.starbike.com/li...spensionframes


    AJ


    Quote Originally Posted by bme107
    I asked because I've upgraded gradually as well. Never had the frame naked. My 99 XCR has the same main triangle as your 2001, with slight differences to the rear triangle.
    "Stop smirking. It's irritating" - Judge Judy

  28. #28
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    3540g in XL, so my LG would be somewhere around 7.5 lbs. My guess was right on the money.

  29. #29
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    Nice job Buggy! Ya know,you've got disc tabs on there.

    You've spent a lot on that bike but in my opinion,that frame is worth it.

    Funny, when my neighbor gave me that beat Timberline I-Drive, I politely thanked him and wheeled it into my shed and figured I'd save the BB7's and just put the bike in the trash a few months later. LOL Now,it's my favorite ride! I've ridden it in the past when it was in good operating condition and it never impressed me. The short stem 24" wide bars and 80mm fork on it made it scary on the chunky downhills. It was way too twitchy. Now, with the 26" bars,130mm fork and longer stem,it feels much better going down. It's not quite as stable going down as my 68 degree Jamis XLT, but it's close.

  30. #30
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    Quote Originally Posted by bigbeck
    Nice job Buggy! Ya know,you've got disc tabs on there.

    You've spent a lot on that bike but in my opinion,that frame is worth it.
    Yeah, the disk tabs are tempting, but at the moment I am enjoying the bling factor of XTR v brakes. And on top of that I don't have disk hubs yet, and if I were to have disks i'd have the ugly studs on the fork sticking out.

    As far as spending alot, I actually haven't spent much at all on it. Probably right around the 400$ to 500$ mark, with the initial cost of the bike included. Most of the parts I either had lying around, took off another of my bikes, or got for very cheap. The only exception is the fork which ran me about 200$. Brakes came from a bike I had lying around, as did the bars and saddle. and most of the other parts were cheap from a bike swap meet.

  31. #31
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    I asked this in another thread with no answers, so I figured I would ask here.
    Does anyone know what the difference in performance between the old eccentric idrive system and the newer system seen on the more modern gt bikes? or did they just change the system to make it more user friendly and lighter?

  32. #32
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    I've ridden most of the new designs...

    I think there were a couple of primary design philosophies when they started with the re-design.

    First, the original one with the eccentric was very complicated and difficult to manufacture. With the giant bearings they had to use and all the complex machining (just take a good hard look at your eccentric from a mechanical perspective..) to produce the parts, it wasn't sustainable I don't think. Plus, the new designs use far less parts, creating far less exposure to support issues.

    Second, I think all the newer designs were built with different shock rates to make them MORE active and use platform shocks, whereas the original ones were designed when platform shocks weren't around yet...thus making the design and rates of the suspension responsible for the platform.

    With that said, I still prefer the original iDrive for most trail riding. I'm sure the new ones are more betterer at other things, but without all the platforms engaged, the new ones feel too squishy for me...which is why I liked the iDrive in the first place.

    AJ



    Quote Originally Posted by Buggyr333
    I asked this in another thread with no answers, so I figured I would ask here.
    Does anyone know what the difference in performance between the old eccentric idrive system and the newer system seen on the more modern gt bikes? or did they just change the system to make it more user friendly and lighter?
    "Stop smirking. It's irritating" - Judge Judy

  33. #33
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    Quote Originally Posted by 2sonmike
    Here's mine. 2001 model? Has XT components(LX crank) RS Judy Race, and SID rear. Looks like crap, and I'm upgrading the brakes to disk. Picked it up for $200.00 about a month ago. I like it!
    Looks like a 2000 model XCR3000. And I'd lower that seatpost/get a longer one ASAP.

  34. #34
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    Quote Originally Posted by Buggyr333
    Yeah, the disk tabs are tempting, but at the moment I am enjoying the bling factor of XTR v brakes. And on top of that I don't have disk hubs yet, and if I were to have disks i'd have the ugly studs on the fork sticking out.
    Unscrew the studs and put rubber plugs in the holes. The main reason I changed to discs is because I got tired of my rims wearing out from the abrasive type dirt that I ride in. My rims used to split at the braking track in only one season of riding. I remember wearing a set of pads out in one 1.5 hour ride. It was raining hard and the soil had a high Mica content. The braking surface was cupped pretty badly too. A few rides later,the braking tracks started to split and fold over. I got tired of this and have been using discs for the past 6 years with no unusual wear problems.

    Today, V-brakes would probably work much better for me as I almost never ride when the trails are wet. Dirt with a high sand content, plus water, equals a very effective grinding compound. It also grinds up the the drivetrain prematurely.

  35. #35
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    Quote Originally Posted by bigbeck
    Unscrew the studs and put rubber plugs in the holes. The main reason I changed to discs is because I got tired of my rims wearing out from the abrasive type dirt that I ride in. My rims used to split at the braking track in only one season of riding. I remember wearing a set of pads out in one 1.5 hour ride. It was raining hard and the soil had a high Mica content. The braking surface was cupped pretty badly too. A few rides later,the braking tracks started to split and fold over. I got tired of this and have been using discs for the past 6 years with no unusual wear problems.

    Today, V-brakes would probably work much better for me as I almost never ride when the trails are wet. Dirt with a high sand content, plus water, equals a very effective grinding compound. It also grinds up the the drivetrain prematurely.
    Well even if I unscrew the bosses themselves, there's still an inch long cone sticking out on both sides. And my xtr's work fine, my environment is mostly dry (Southern California), and I've never had problems with my rims grinding away. And besides, I don't like disks all that much, I'm not too good at getting adjusted quite right. I have one bike with Avid BB7's and one with Juicy 7's. While I like how easy it is to adjust the bb7s to not scrape the rotors, I always have to pull the lever all the way to the grip to skid, and while the Juicys offer excellent stopping power, I cannot get them to stop scraping the rotors.

    So I'll stick with my XTR v brakes. I just enjoy how easy they are. And they're a conversation piece on the trail "Oh those look really interesting, what are the benefits to that design?" blablablah.

    And btw, with my most recent upgrades, I am loving the living hell out of my idrive. I don't know if I like it more than my 29ers, But definitely have a whole lot more fun on it than I did when I first got it.

  36. #36
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    I2k

    I2K with some old parts thrown on....
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Original i-Drive riders still out there?-i2k3.jpg  


  37. #37
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    Quote Originally Posted by Buggyr333
    While I like how easy it is to adjust the bb7s to not scrape the rotors, I always have to pull the lever all the way to the grip to skid
    Well, I have BB7's on two of my bikes, including the I-drive. Either your cable housings are very worn and/or are compressing or the inner or outer pads are not adjusted properly. I'm assuming the calipers are aligned with the discs. The stopping power should be close to the hydraulics - just need more hand pressure.

    With the BB7's set up properly, you should be able to skid or put yourself over the bars with say, only a 1/2" movement of the levers. Also, you should never use the barrel adjusters on your levers to adjust those brakes. Adjustment should be at the pads only. Keep the inner pad as close to the rotor as possible and use the outer pad to control the distance your lever travels before the brakes lock up. You can make your BB7's lock up anywhere within the lever travel using this method. If that doesn't work, then the problem lies with the cables or housing or contaminated pads/rotors.

  38. #38
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    Quote Originally Posted by bigbeck
    Well, I have BB7's on two of my bikes, including the I-drive. Either your cable housings are very worn and/or are compressing or the inner or outer pads are not adjusted properly. I'm assuming the calipers are aligned with the discs. The stopping power should be close to the hydraulics - just need more hand pressure.
    It's none of that, it's actually because the rotors are warped, since the design relies on the flexing of the rotor to get any stopping power. They weren't like that at first, I just use that bike a whole lot, and can't justify the price of new rotors for the time being, since I can still skid the bike fine, it just needs more lever movement than the average bike.

  39. #39
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    Just finished building it!

    Literally just finished building this 2005 I-drive 2.0 for my brother. Enjoy!





    Quote Originally Posted by forkboy
    And don't be scared to walk. Walking is one of the mystical 3 gears of Single Speed.

    Sit
    Stand
    Walk.

  40. #40
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    I believe my bike is an early GT i-drive. bought it at a local pawn shop for $400. The frame style is sililar to these early 2000's GT's. My frame is a real shiney coper color. It came with a fox vanilla fork and a float RL in the rear also looks to be converted to hayes hydrolic discs. NO stickers can anybody tell me how to identify it? I am looking to exchange/upgrade a few parts but the bike rides real nice for me as is

  41. #41
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    Quote Originally Posted by iradi8 View Post
    I believe my bike is an early GT i-drive. bought it at a local pawn shop for $400. The frame style is sililar to these early 2000's GT's. My frame is a real shiney coper color. It came with a fox vanilla fork and a float RL in the rear also looks to be converted to hayes hydrolic discs. NO stickers can anybody tell me how to identify it? I am looking to exchange/upgrade a few parts but the bike rides real nice for me as is
    I'm sure with some good pictures it could be identified.

  42. #42
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    yeah I think so too but since I am new I cant start a new thread until 5 posts. This is #3

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    Quote Originally Posted by iradi8 View Post
    yeah I think so too but since I am new I cant start a new thread until 5 posts. This is #3
    then reply to this post .

    and the next one.

  44. #44
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    Quote Originally Posted by trauma-md View Post
    I2K with some old parts thrown on....
    Nice ride! So what gives? Was this a special addition? It looks almost identical to a bike I speacial ordered in 2000'. Mine was an XCR-LE which also had the same GT Race blue yellow paint scheme and hand made frame at the Sana Ana plant. Made from Easton 6061 taper walled aluminum. Which shaved a pound off of any other I-drive offered in the 4.6" travel. Yours looks like it may have less travel than that. What year and model is that? Yours is obviously the same Easton tubing and from the same plant hence the "ping pong padel" decal on the seat tower which signified hand made Easton 6061 aluminum which only these frames received.
    Last edited by DIRTJUNKIE; 07-02-2011 at 07:14 PM.

  45. #45
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    My 01 iDrive Race Rocks it like NO OTHER!
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Original i-Drive riders still out there?-933914_10200776644645837_425446189_n.jpg  

    Original i-Drive riders still out there?-933914_10200776644605836_51502507_n.jpg  

    Last edited by y33dave; 02-26-2014 at 01:02 PM.
    Live
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    SPIN

  46. #46
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    Great to see the ol i-drives still kick it. As soon as I take a one of my 1999 xcr-1000 i'll post it.

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    Not for much longer...

    I'm afraid the last holdout of my eccentric-era stable has succumbed to the dreaded seatpost mast failure, fourth or fifth one for me. Too bad, this had been a great frame thus far, been my daily commuter/'road bike' for a few years now. It was an '04 Pro model, lightweight short-travel version. The rear triangle broke about a year ago but I was able to find a take-off from a 1.0 or 2.0 version and keep it going, with a bit more travel thanks to different lower shock mount. It's super plush and comfy with a 6.75x1.25" shock and 130mm coil Revelation (both Push'd), kept me pedalling through the endless NorCal winter when all the trails were too muddy to ride... it has served well.

    I'm convinced that opening/closing the seatpost q/r is what does these frames in; this one, and my last 1.0 had extra material added in the problem zone and held up much longer than my first generation iDrives did for sure. But I learned to monitor and check regularly and sure enough, just like my 1.0 this one was fine one minute and cracked after removing and reinstalling the post. If you're still riding one of these I'd recommend running a bolt-type clamp instead of a quick release, and only adjust if absolutely necessary.

    Alas, unless I find a screamin' deal on a replacement eccentric frame it looks like this one will be upgraded to ID-style soon, I'll just nurse as many commutes out of it as possible in the meantime. Farewell old friend, thanks for the rides!
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Original i-Drive riders still out there?-jul11-101.jpg  

    Original i-Drive riders still out there?-jul11-103.jpg  


  48. #48
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    Seems to be lots of good info in here, and some sweet bikes! I've got a couple questions for those of you who are familiar with these give me some input as to this possible craigslist project...

    "This is just the frame, It is a size medium, it is missing the i-drive bearings but otherwise would make a good project bike. Asking $50"

    i'm not sure how expensive / difficult replacing the bearings is (still researching), but would this be an alright frame to build off of or do you think i'd be better off scrounging craigslist more...

    edit: can't post pics/link yet but heres the link minus http with a pic in it: ://kalamazoo.craigslist.org/bik/2482418296.html

    sorry for the noob post and thanks for any info!

  49. #49
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    Quote Originally Posted by GTfreefall View Post
    One of my favorites! Has treated me well for 5 years now.
    Over look at Tasali, NC
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Original i-Drive riders still out there?-imag0424.jpg  


  50. #50
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    I have a 98 STS xcr 2000 I still ride. Bone stock except for the seat. Thinking of lightening it up a bit. Anyone done a recent build on one of these frames? Wondering how light I could go.

  51. #51
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    Picked this 2002 (i think) ruckus 2.0 frame up last winter and had to put it together on a budget. I'll continue upgrading as funds allow. But after this first summer of abuse I'm pretty pleased.

    2011 Marzocchi Bomber 55tst2 air
    Rock Shox monarch 3.1
    WTB dual duty fr wheels
    WTB MX prowler tires
    Bontrager King Earl crank
    Truvativ stem
    Truvativ hussefelt handlebar
    Truvativ howitzer bottom bracket
    Avid bb7 brakes, came off old bike
    Deore LX derailleurs and shifters, came of a 1999 xcr4000
    WTB seat and seat post
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Original i-Drive riders still out there?-dsc01577.jpg  

    Original i-Drive riders still out there?-dsc01579.jpg  


  52. #52
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    I had a Ruckus 2.0 then a ID5 1.0, both got replaced due to I-drive issues after many years of service and I miss riding them both.

    Old I-drive system rode better though.

  53. #53
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    I still have an ride my 99 xcr i drive.
    an like mentioned i rarely see another on the trails


  54. #54
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    Quote Originally Posted by jballz01 View Post
    I have a 98 STS xcr 2000 I still ride. Bone stock except for the seat. Thinking of lightening it up a bit. Anyone done a recent build on one of these frames? Wondering how light I could go.
    I believe you are incorrect in the year of your i-Drive. The first year of that design was 1999.

  55. #55
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    Quote Originally Posted by Eric. View Post
    I'm afraid the last holdout of my eccentric-era stable has succumbed to the dreaded seatpost mast failure, fourth or fifth one for me. Too bad, this had been a great frame thus far, been my daily commuter/'road bike' for a few years now. It was an '04 Pro model, lightweight short-travel version. The rear triangle broke about a year ago but I was able to find a take-off from a 1.0 or 2.0 version and keep it going, with a bit more travel thanks to different lower shock mount. It's super plush and comfy with a 6.75x1.25" shock and 130mm coil Revelation (both Push'd), kept me pedalling through the endless NorCal winter when all the trails weree too muddy to ride... it has served well.

    I'm convinced that opening/closing the seatpost q/r is what does these frames in; this one, and my last 1.0 had extra material added in the problem zone and held up much longer than my first generation iDrives did for sure. But I learned to monitor and check regularly and sure enough, just like my 1.0 this one was fine one minute and cracked after removing and reinstalling the post. If you're still riding one of these I'd recommend running a bolt-type clamp instead of a quick release, and only adjust if absolutely necessary.

    Alas, unless I find a screamin' deal on a replacement eccentric frame it looks like this one will be upgraded to ID-style soon, I'll just nurse as many commutes out of it as possible in the meantime. Farewell old friewell old friend, thanks for the rides!


    Well you sure stuck it out (with that design) for a hell of a lot longer than I did. Back in 2000' I special ordered the premier i-Drive. An XCR-LE which I rode fairly aggressively for six months. At the six month mark the now infamous seat mast failure happened. GT stepped up and replaced the frame with one of the last LE's produced. I questioned the GT sales Rep if this was a common problem? and is it a desiign flaw? will this inevitablely happen again to this new frame? He responded saying it is not a design flaw and out of the numerous thousands of i-drive frames built he only heard of two such failures happening. So with some peace of mind I rode that frame normally ( fairly aggressively) but mind you I would often stop in the middle of a ride to check the seatmast area for stress cracks.
    Well low and behold one day in the middle of a 12 mile ride while standing out of the saddle I hear a tinging sound. I in my head immediately think "oh no" the same sound I heard on the first frame failure. I hit the skids and jump off to check and sure enough a stress crack in the EXACT same spot as the first frame. And what really tripped me out was that it happened EXACTLY at the SIX month mark. The same amount of time it took for the first frame to fail. Well needless to say rode the last six miles out of the saddle to the trail head. Well back to get a warranty replacement frame. In my head knowing I received the last LE produced last time I wondered what frame they were going to downgrade me to. Well upon my arrival at my lbs the salesman tells me GT filed bankruptcy and therefore no GT warranty's are being honored. I was dumbfounded and asked to talk to the manager
    I explained my situation and he knew I special ordered that bike and paid $4500.00 for it with an additional $500.00 in gear a year prior. And I was a frequent repeat customer at his store. So being the stand up person and shop that they had a reputation of. Did what they could do and what GT at that point couldn't do. He offered me a $500.00 discount on another brand frame of my choice. Along with free tear down a build of the new frame.Well having no other option I took the deal. I was in luck that they carried other top brands. I chose to go with an Intense UZZI-SL which was a $2000.00 frame. Most of my parts from the GT were switched over. But I was forced to buy a new fork $650.00 and I chose to go with newer brakes Hope minis hydros to replace the crappy Formula hydros the GT came with. So this GT seatmast failure cost me substantial amount of coin due to the GT bankrupsy. I miss that i-Drive LE and loved the way it handled and performed flawlessly in all situations. It climbed like a mountain goat and descended with precision. And IMO one of the best suspension designs of all time. I don't get the corrilation between that old i-drive design and the new one. In my eyes they are not even close,not enough so to warrant the i-drive name to be branded on the new design.
    Last edited by DIRTJUNKIE; 10-01-2011 at 12:50 PM.

  56. #56
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    hi all, i have a 05 gt i-drive 2.0 that im building up , i use it for xc,freeriding and downhill .. jack of all trades any ways last thing to upgrade is the front forks .. it still has the stocks ones , i wanna put a set of 140 or 50mm forks on .. been looking on chainreactioncycles.for a set but dunno what steer tube size i need .. if any one could let me no a good set that will fit .. wanna keep it under $400 a set if i can .. cheeeers boys .

  57. #57
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    I'm sure your frame is a 1 1/8th inche ht.

  58. #58
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    cheers mate yeah its 11/8"


    heres my rig (i-drive 2.0) ... just a fun budget style build .. nice and cheap fun . pretty much all done just need sum new forks , then its all sweet ..used for freeriding and sum downhill ..


    Original i-Drive riders still out there?-imgp6525.jpg

    Original i-Drive riders still out there?-imgp6516.jpg

    Original i-Drive riders still out there?-imgp6514.jpg

    Original i-Drive riders still out there?-imgp6511.jpg
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Original i-Drive riders still out there?-imgp6527.jpg  


  59. #59
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    Hello all,

    New to forums. Glade to see a great GT Post.

    Just a quick question. I have a line on two 2001 GT Idrive Team frames, one has a Talas RCL fork and they both have Fox RC race shocks. Any idea what they’re worth. I want to build one for my son and one for myself.

    Don't know much about them but they are just cool looking frames!!!

    Thanks

  60. #60
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    Quote Originally Posted by missionbound08 View Post
    Hello all,

    New to forums. Glade to see a great GT Post.

    Just a quick question. I have a line on two 2001 GT Idrive Team frames, one has a Talas RCL fork and they both have Fox RC race shocks. Any idea what they’re worth. I want to build one for my son and one for myself.

    Don't know much about them but they are just cool looking frames!!!

    Thanks
    Well the 2001' Team was GT's top of the line frame for that year. It was GT's last horay before the Big Bankruptsy. It was a frame designed for XC Racing. All i-drives prior to that point and the rest of that years lineup were 4.6" travel bikes. But the Team and its sister frame the Race which was the same frame with lower components both had 3" travel. More oriented for XC racing. They had Race Edition geometry which meant longer toptube and shorter chain stays. They were hand built at the Santa Ana plant using lightweight Easton 6061 custom butted taperwall aluminum. A much higher grade aluminum which is just as strong but much lighter than the 7000 series aluminum uses on all other i-drives except the 00' LE which was also handbuilt Easton 6061 taperwalled but that frame was 4.6" travel
    Great find by the way and as far as price well the Team frame sold new for $2000.00. So in today's market a good condition one I would say a fair price of $400-$600. Oh and also the Team came only in one color combo of team GT race colors which were blue/yellow.,,
    Last edited by DIRTJUNKIE; 10-05-2011 at 07:13 PM.

  61. #61
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    I came here to start a similar thread but am glad to see this one going.
    I ride a 2001 4.0 that is 100% original. Not many miles on it at all. Just pulled it out of the garage to start riding again.

  62. #62
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    Picked up one of two Idrive team frames!!

    Quote Originally Posted by DIRTJUNKIE, View Post
    Well the 2001' Team was GT's top of the line frame for that year. It was GT's last horay before the Big Bankruptsy. It was a frame designed for XC Racing. All i-drives prior to that point and the rest of that years lineup were 4.6" travel bikes. But the Team and its sister frame the Race which was the same frame with lower components both had 3" travel. More oriented for XC racing. They had Race Edition geometry which meant longer toptube and shorter chain stays. They were hand built at the Santa Ana plant using lightweight Easton 6061 custom butted taperwall aluminum. A much higher grade aluminum which is just as strong but much lighter than the 7000 series aluminum uses on all other i-drives except the 00' LE which was also handbuilt Easton 6061 taperwalled but that frame was 4.6" travel
    Great find by the way and as far as price well the Team frame sold new for $2000.00. So in today's market a good condition one I would say a fair price of $400-$600. Oh and also the Team came only in one color combo of team GT race colors which were blue/yellow.,,
    DIRTJUNKIE.

    THANKS. Great info. I did get one of the frames today. I told the LBS owner that I'm trying to build it for my son (1 of 4). I mentioned putting 24" tires with disc hubs ( found online for $200). And a 150mm crank. He loved the idea so much that he gave the frame to him they do have a good relstionship, he has had my son to the shop to "work" several times. I don't think I'll get that price for the second but we'll see. Don't know if it will all work as far as geometry but we are going to give it a try. Probably take the Talas 90-130mm off and go short as possible. I have a Duke 63-108mm. Will try to add picts as possible. Any thought are welcome.

  63. #63
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    Cool thread! I used to have a 01' XCR 1.0 and loved it.

  64. #64
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    Quote Originally Posted by missionbound08 View Post
    DIRTJUNKIE.

    THANKS. Great info. I did get one of the frames today. I told the LBS owner that I'm trying to build it for my son (1 of 4). I mentioned putting 24" tires with disc hubs ( found online for $200). And a 150mm crank. He loved the idea so much that he gave the frame to him they do have a good relstionship, he has had my son to the shop to "work" several times. I don't think I'll get that price for the second but we'll see. Don't know if it will all work as far as geometry but we are going to give it a try. Probably take the Talas 90-130mm off and go short as possible. I have a Duke 63-108mm. Will try to add picts as possible. Any thought are welcome.
    Sounds great! And I would say your son is a lucky young man. Well for your frame I would suggest running a 163mm fork. That is what the Team was designed to run. Some people have ran 180mm and have said they liked it. But 163mm matches the rear travel and the geometry of the frame. As far as your sons build with running 24" wheels that is going to be trial and error picking the correct travel fork. Your idea of running the Duke with its adjustability from 63-108mm sounds like a great plac to start. I certainly would like to hear the progress of both builds. Keep us informed along the way. And congratulations to both of you I think you will be very happy with your choice of frames.
    Last edited by DIRTJUNKIE; 10-06-2011 at 10:37 PM.

  65. #65
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    Always changing my bike, figured I would update. Still love the hell out of it, and no sign of any seat mast failures, and Ive been riding her hard.




    Parts List:
    Fork: 2001 Marzocchi Z.1 Mcr 130mm
    Rear Shock: Fox Float
    Wheelset: Velocity Synergy in Yellow, GT front hub, STX rear hub.
    Tires: Forte Pisgah 2.3 front, 2.1 rear
    Brakes: XTR
    Levers: Avid FR5
    Bars: UNO 680mm wide riser Gold
    Grips: ESI Chunky
    Stem: Titec Big Al
    Shifters: Sram Attack grip shifters
    Front Derailleur: Shimano alivio
    Rear Derailleur: Shimano XTR mid cage
    Cassette: Shimano 11-32
    Crankset: Shimano XT hollowtech 1, 22-32-bash
    Pedals: Shimano dual spd
    Seatpost: Deity Tibia
    Saddle: Nashbar F1

    Right around the 30lb mark.

  66. #66
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    Thats a sexy bike you got there buggy.

    I just recently got a 99 xcr-3000 from my step dad, thing runs like a dream and you cant beat the price of free. Had one question though. Some of you guys seem like you have disc brakes on the rear, my lbs told me that I wouldnt be able to put them on my bike so just wondering how you all did.

    Cheers

  67. #67
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    Quote Originally Posted by DIRTJUNKIE, View Post
    Sounds great! And I would say your son is a lucky young man. Well for your frame I would suggest running a 163mm fork. That is what the Team was designed to run. Some people have ran 180mm and have said they liked it. But 163mm matches the rear travel and the geometry of the frame. As far as your sons build with running 24" wheels that is going to be trial and error picking the correct travel fork. Your idea of running the Duke with its adjustability from 63-108mm sounds like a great plac to start. I certainly would like to hear the progress of both builds. Keep us informed along the way. And congratulations to both of you I think you will be very happy with your choice of frames.
    Don't know if you meant 63mm instead of 163mm. I used to have a 2001 Team frame and the longest fork you should run is a 80mm travel fork. Anything more than that it will really screw up the geometry and it won't handle right. Trust me, I tried running a 100mm and it never felt right. running a 180mm fork is like running 7 inches of travel when you should be running no more than 4 inches. Of course, these are also part of the seatpost crack issue. Mine never cracked and rode great but two things to watch for on the seatpost. 1. Make sure that when you adjust the post that you have at least half inch showing through the bottom to distribute the weight better, no less than that. 2. try to balance out the saddle (fore and aft) on the seatpost. If you place it too far back you will be putting unnecessary strain on that weld. Have a great time with that frame, it was definitely one of my favorite bikes to ride. I had mine weighing 24 lbs which was unheard of for a full suspension bike in the early 2000's.
    Still loving my GT's!! find me on the "GT Bike Group" page on FB. I hardly ever hang out in here anymore.

  68. #68
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    Quote Originally Posted by gt jorgito View Post
    Don't know if you meant 63mm instead of 163mm. I used to have a 2001 Team frame and the longest fork you should run is a 80mm travel fork. Anything more than that it will really screw up the geometry and it won't handle right. Trust me, I tried running a 100mm and it never felt right. running a 180mm fork is like running 7 inches of travel when you should be running no more than 4 inches. Of course, these are also part of the seatpost crack issue. Mine never cracked and rode great but two things to watch for on the seatpost. 1. Make sure that when you adjust the post that you have at least half inch showing through the bottom to distribute the weight better, no less than that. 2. try to balance out the saddle (fore and aft) on the seatpost. If you place it too far back you will be putting unnecessary strain on that weld. Have a great time with that frame, it was definitely one of my favorite bikes to ride. I had mine weighing 24 lbs which was unheard of for a full suspension bike in the early 2000's.
    Yes I meant 63mm sorry it must have been a long day.

  69. #69
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    I ride a 100% stock 2001 idrive 4.0
    I bought it new then quit mtb'ing until just recently. Learning about shelf wear.
    I ride to make me like myself.

  70. #70
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    how is the ride of the I-Drive compared to an LTS? Anyone here ridden both?

  71. #71
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    Quote Originally Posted by ClayP View Post
    how is the ride of the I-Drive compared to an LTS? Anyone here ridden both?
    I didn't on the LTS, but I'd say rear wheel tracking on the climbs are so much better with an i-Drive. But a 4 bar linkage would be faster on rough terrain, since the i-Drive is kinda slow with the suspension design.
    Quote Originally Posted by NicoleB28 View Post
    topless. that's what all mtb girls do. we go ride, get topless, have pillow fights in the woods, scissor, then ride home!

  72. #72
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    Quote Originally Posted by ClayP View Post
    how is the ride of the I-Drive compared to an LTS? Anyone here ridden both?
    I was a GT dealer when the idrives came out and got to ride both LT's and idrives back to back, quite often.

    The LTS was only slightly more plush than the Idrive, since the LTS had about 1/2" more travel.

    The sensation of riding an Idrive after having ridden an LTS for so long, was that the Idrive just floated over terrain.

    The LTS had noticeable pedal feedback
    Last edited by iheartbicycles; 12-17-2011 at 01:18 PM.
    Stupid, but sometimes witty. Occasionally brilliant. Slow and fat though.

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  73. #73
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    I-drive 2004 geometry

    There is one I-drive 3 , model 2004, hanging from garage floor, waiting, maybe forever new parts. I had to disassemble poor bike, these parts which joins rear and front ends were badly worn out.And well served as this one was there were lots of (new) usefull parts in my newer bike...
    This GT is size S, I wonder if anybody has really measured seatpost and steering angles?

    Martti, Greetings from Finland, the real home of Santa Claus

  74. #74
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  75. #75
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    sorry to ask this here, but what is the story on the large bottom bracket? i think that has something to do with the iDrive, but what is the purpose, and how does it work?

    i like it when people come up with a new solution to an old problem. actually, i'm not even sure what problem they were trying to fix.

  76. #76
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    i-drive

    i-drive stands for independent drive. This was GT's solution to the problem of bicycles with a rear suspension affecting the drive train by slacking the chain when the suspension compresses, causing chain slap, dropped chains and inconsistent pedal motion. There is a small titanium i-beam that goes from the bottom of the down tube into the the larger "can" surronding the bottom bracket. When the suspension compresses, the i-drive rotates the inside of the "can" much like a headset rotates when you turn your handlebars. This makes it so the pedal motion or drive is now independent of the input from the suspension's motions.

  77. #77
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    Very cool. Thank you very much for explaining.

  78. #78
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    Sorry if this is the wrong place, but would this bike on cg be worth it?

    providence.craigslist.org/bik/2712098031.html

  79. #79
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    Quote Originally Posted by daringh View Post
    Sorry if this is the wrong place, but would this bike on cg be worth it?

    ♦♦♦ GT FULL SUSPENSION HYBRID / COMFORT BIKE-LIKE NEW
    On bikepedia.com : 2001 GT Timberline i-Drive

    Looks like a nice little cruiser for bike path. Just be sure to check everything good and that the frame has no cracks, especially at the welds of the seat tube area and main frame.

    And no, $300 for that bike is still way too much. Offer them $100 and see how it goes. FYI, I paid a like new GT XCR 3000, year 2000 model, for $350. And that bike was twice the price has this one new ($1500).

    David
    Quote Originally Posted by NicoleB28 View Post
    topless. that's what all mtb girls do. we go ride, get topless, have pillow fights in the woods, scissor, then ride home!

  80. #80
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    My 2000 GT i-2k special edition limited


  81. #81
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    Quote Originally Posted by FormulaRX View Post
    My 2000 GT i-2k special edition limited

    Sweet bike. I like that stand too. Infos ?
    Quote Originally Posted by NicoleB28 View Post
    topless. that's what all mtb girls do. we go ride, get topless, have pillow fights in the woods, scissor, then ride home!

  82. #82
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    Thanks! Yes it's my 2000 GT i-2k special edition i-drive...only made in limited quantities. USA made 6061 alu from the Santa Ana factory. Never was available to the general public but only for GT reps and selected dealers...based on the 99 XC frame.

    Fork: Rock Shox SID Hydra Air XC
    Rear Suspension: Rock Shox SID Dual Air
    Rims: Mavic CrossMax SL SSC w/ Exalith coating for V-brakes
    Crank/Gearset: Shimano XTR
    Brakes/Levers: Shimano XTR V-Brakes & Koolstop pads/XTR levers
    Headset: Chris King
    Stem: Thomson Elite
    Bars: Easton MonkeyLite CT2 carbon
    Seat: WTB Rocket-V
    Seat Post: original Syncros
    Tires: Specialized “The Captain” S-Works
    Grips: Lizard Skin
    Computer: Avocet 25

    Parts mostly considered outdated by today's standards but they still work great!

  83. #83
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    Quote Originally Posted by FormulaRX View Post
    Thanks! Yes it's my 2000 GT i-2k special edition i-drive...only made in limited quantities. USA made 6061 alu from the Santa Ana factory. Never was available to the general public but only for GT reps and selected dealers...based on the 99 XC frame.

    Fork: Rock Shox SID Hydra Air XC
    Rear Suspension: Rock Shox SID Dual Air
    Rims: Mavic CrossMax SL SSC w/ Exalith coating for V-brakes
    Crank/Gearset: Shimano XTR
    Brakes/Levers: Shimano XTR V-Brakes & Koolstop pads/XTR levers
    Headset: Chris King
    Stem: Thomson Elite
    Bars: Easton MonkeyLite CT2 carbon
    Seat: WTB Rocket-V
    Seat Post: original Syncros
    Tires: Specialized “The Captain” S-Works
    Grips: Lizard Skin
    Computer: Avocet 25

    Parts mostly considered outdated by today's standards but they still work great!
    Nice ride RX! As you know that frame made it into production in 2000' under a different model name. I special ordered one in 2000'. It was called an XCR-LE which was a limited produced frame, hence the LE insignia. It was also hand buillt in the Santa Ana plant which is where all the high end GT frames were built. Made out of Easton 6061 taperwalled aluminum. That frame was identical to yours but had a different parts build than yours. I would suspect yours was the prototype model or models that turned out to be the XCR-LE in 2000'
    Last edited by DIRTJUNKIE; 01-21-2012 at 04:39 PM.
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  84. #84
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    Here's my XCR 3000, hand-built in CA, model year 2000.
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    Quote Originally Posted by NicoleB28 View Post
    topless. that's what all mtb girls do. we go ride, get topless, have pillow fights in the woods, scissor, then ride home!

  85. #85
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    Sorry but your 3000 was not "hand built' out of the Santa Ana plant. There was another GT plant in Cal. that the frames were machine made. And they used 7000 series aluminum not the premium Easton 6061 Taperwalled aluminum. Which shaved close to a pound off the frame weight compared to the 7000 series. Scroll up and look at the blue bike above. Do you see the "Ping Pong Paddle" sticker in black and red on the seat tower. That is an insignia that only the high end hand built frames out of the Santa Ana plant received. I know you are going to say Mabe my sticker is missing. Trust me I S/O my LE in 2000' and I know what models came out of that plant and the 3000 was definately not one of them. That's not to say your bikes not nice. In fact it looks brand new.
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    Quote Originally Posted by DIRTJUNKIE, View Post
    Nice ride RX! As you know that frame made it into production in 2000' under a different model name. I special ordered one in 2000'. It was called an XCR-LE which h was a limeted produced frame, hence the LE insignia. It was also hand buillt in the Santa Ana plant which is where all the high end GT frames were built. Made out of Easton 6061 taperwalled aluminum. That frame was identical to yours but had a different parts build than yours. I would suspect yours was the prototype model or models that turned out to be the XCR-LE in 2000'
    DIRTJUNKIE Yes you're right...the i-2K that I have is based off the XCR-LE ...well maybe it's based off the XCR-LE or reverse, the XCR-LE was based off of the i-2K. Both were Easton 6061 hand welded at the Santa Ana factory but I think the i-2K was indeed a prototype version with a different paint scheme and name that was given only to select few GT dealers and reps.

    Although my bike is a 2000 year (also indicated by the name i-2k), I believe it was based on a 1999 version of the frame that eventually led to the production XCR-LE frame. As you can see in this pic, my bike does not even have rear disc brake mount tabs welded on swingarm like some 2000+ XC frames even though it is considered a "2000".



    This leads me to believe it's a late 1999 prototype frame. Nevertheless, it's a rare frame and I have no intentions of letting it go anytime soon :-p I'll clean it up and post better detailed pics in a few weeks

  87. #87
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    Quote Originally Posted by FormulaRX View Post
    DIRTJUNKIE Yes you're right...the i-2K that I have is based off the XCR-LE ...well maybe it's based off the XCR-LE or reverse, the XCR-LE was based off of the i-2K. Both were Easton 6061 hand welded at the Santa Ana factory but I think the i-2K was indeed a prototype version with a different paint scheme and name that was given only to select few GT dealers and reps.

    Although my bike is a 2000 year (also indicated by the name i-2k), I believe it was based on a 1999 version of the frame that eventually led to the production XCR-LE frame. As you can see in this pic, my bike does not even have rear disc brake mount tabs welded on swingarm like some 2000+ XC frames even though it is considered a "2000".



    This leads me to believe it's a late 1999 prototype frame. Nevertheless, it's a rare frame and I have no intentions of letting it go anytime soon :-p I'll clean it up and post better detailed pics in a few weeks
    Yep the Y-2k was the prototype that lead to the production version LE. The frames were identical except the disc brake tabs. The reason they didn't need the tabs was due to the Team GT cross country racers in 2000' were riding the y2-k. And due to XC race weights v-brakes were lighter hence the tabs were not needed. When they produced the LE for the public disc brakes were new and all the rage. So the production version Y2-K was named the LE and was sold with disc brakes. The next year 01' GT came out with a shorter travel longer toptube shorter seat stays XC race oriented Team and Race models. Both versions were hand built with Easton 6061 tubing at the Santa Ana plant. That was GTs last hoorahh before the "Big" Bankrupsy. I was a victim of that big deal. I broke my LE at the dreaded seattower six months in. GT warranteed me one of the last LE frames made. Well exactly six months later I had the same failure same spot. The bankruptcy just went through and I was S.O.L. Luckely my LBS stepped up and gave me a credit of $500 towards another brand frame. I had no choice even though the LE frame alone sold for $2000.00 I opted for an Intense frame for $2000.00 and had the parts swapped over. I lost $1500.00 due to the GT bankruptcy. I loved that LE and nothing rides like an early i-Drive. Take care of that sweet Y2-K.
    Last edited by DIRTJUNKIE; 01-08-2012 at 06:24 PM.
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    Last edited by Goinslo; 01-08-2012 at 07:13 PM.

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    Quote Originally Posted by DIRTJUNKIE, View Post
    Yep the Y-2k was the prototype that lead to the production version LE. The frames were identical except the disc brake tabs. The reason they didn't need the tabs was due to the Team GT cross country racers in 2000' were riding the y2-k. And due to XC race weights v-brakes were lighter hence the tabs were not needed. When they produced the LE for the public disc brakes were new and all the rage. So the production version Y2-K was named the LE and was sold with disc brakes. The next year 01' GT came out with a shorter travel longer toptube shorter seat stays XC race oriented Team and Race models. Both versions were hand built with Easton 6061 tubing at the Santa Ana plant. That was GTs last hoorahh before the "Big" Bankrupsy. I was a victim of that big deal. I broke my LE at the dreaded seattower six months in. GT warranteed me one of the last LE frames made. Well exactly six months later I had the same failure same spot. The bankruptcy just went through and I was S.O.L. Luckely my LBS stepped up and gave me a credit of $500 towards another brand frame. I had no choice even though the LE frame alone sold for $2000.00 I opted for an Intense frame for $2000.00 and had the parts swapped over. I lost $1500.00 due to the GT bankruptcy. I loved that LE and nothing rides like an early i-Drive. Take care of that sweet Y2-K.
    Wow! thanks for that bit of info! I originally wanted to convert the bike to full disc brakes which isn't a problem on the front, but the rear arm has no brake tabs. I was looking around online to see if I could source an XC rear swingarm with the disc tabs because none of that disc brake adapter junk stuff would work with my current rear swingarm anyway...but now that I think about it, I do have something special and your bit of info about how Y2-k Team frames chose not to use disc brakes due to weight savings back in the day, I'm just gonna keep the bike setup the way it is and preserve the rarity of it. I guess I was bitten by the disc brake bug but in reality, my XTR V-brakes with the Exalith coated Mavic SSCs stop on a dime, better than mechanical discs and maybe even as well if not better than some hydro discs. Do you happen to have any old pics left of your XCR?

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    Yes I knew it! My blue i-2K above is the prototype version Easton 6061 hand welded frame that eventually led to the year 2000 production XCR-LE, but the frame design was based on the '99 XCR-1000 like Goinslo's white bike above, hence the non disc brake tab rear swingarm. Some interesting info guys. I learned a bit more about my bike today. Thanks!

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    1999 xcr-1000

    I bought this new in 1999. I have update a few parts over the last 2 years fork Magura Menja, Crossmax ST wheels, rear Cane Creek Cloud Nine shock. I didn't change the seat post for fear of the dreaded seat post clamp frame crack. I will ride it till I can't ride it anymore. I love this bike. Sorry for the low quality pics (cell phone pics).
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Original i-Drive riders still out there?-img00078-20110806-1058.jpg  

    Original i-Drive riders still out there?-img00132-20120108-2005.jpg  

    Original i-Drive riders still out there?-img00133-20120108-2006.jpg  

    Original i-Drive riders still out there?-img00134-20120108-2007.jpg  

    Original i-Drive riders still out there?-img00135-20120108-2008.jpg  


  92. #92
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    Quote Originally Posted by FormulaRX View Post
    Wow! thanks for that bit of info! I originally wanted to convert the bike to full disc brakes which isn't a problem on the front, but the rear arm has no brake tabs. I was looking around online to see if I could source an XC rear swingarm with the disc tabs because none of that disc brake adapter junk stuff would work with my current rear swingarm anyway...but now that I think about it, I do have something special and your bit of info about how Y2-k Team frames chose not to use disc brakes due to weight savings back in the day, I'm just gonna keep the bike setup the way it is and preserve the rarity of it. I guess I was bitten by the disc brake bug but in reality, my XTR V-brakes with the Exalith coated Mavic SSCs stop on a dime, better than mechanical discs and maybe even as well if not better than some hydro discs. Do you happen to have any old pics left of your XCR?
    I totally agree with you on the rarity your Y2-K and if I were you I would leave it as original as possible. In fact due to the seattower issues would be afraid to ride it. Not for fear of injury but rather ruining such a fine peace of GT history. It belongs in a GT museum if one was ever developed. The Y2-K and the LE were the highlight of the old i-drives the best they ever made. The Team a year later was in that catagory but was of a shorter travel. And yes I do have old prints of my LE but have no way of scanning and uploading. I will dig them out and try to get them up.
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    Quote Originally Posted by DIRTJUNKIE, View Post
    I totally agree with you on the rarity your Y2-K and if I were you I would leave it as original as possible. In fact due to the seattower issues would be afraid to ride it. Not for fear of injury but rather ruining such a fine peace of GT history. It belongs in a GT museum if one was ever developed. The Y2-K and the LE were the highlight of the old i-drives the best they ever made. The Team a year later was in that catagory but was of a shorter travel. And yes I do have old prints of my LE but have no way of scanning and uploading. I will dig them out and try to get them up.
    Now where exactly is the seat tower known to crack? I've ridden this bike everywhere and heard of other frames of the like cracking at the seatpost/tower but have yet to experience it and hope to never experience it! I can't replace this frame.

  94. #94
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    Quote Originally Posted by FormulaRX View Post
    Now where exactly is the seat tower known to crack? I've ridden this bike everywhere and heard of other frames of the like cracking at the seatpost/tower but have yet to experience it and hope to never experience it! I can't replace this frame.
    The seat tower is known to crack right near the seat clamp on the front. I have no way of posting a picture. But a guy named Eric posted a good shot of it in this thread. Go to the first page all the way at the bottom. The picture is of a blue bike. Look real close in front of the seat clamp. This is the same spot that both of my frames cracked. Oh and also you may want to check out further up that page. Another Guy posted a photo of his Y2-K.
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    Quote Originally Posted by DIRTJUNKIE, View Post
    Sorry but your 3000 was not "hand built' out of the Santa Ana plant. There was another GT plant in Cal. that the frames were machine made. And they used 7000 series aluminum not the premium Easton 6061 Taperwalled aluminum. Which shaved close to a pound off the frame weight compared to the 7000 series. Scroll up and look at the blue bike above. Do you see the "Ping Pong Paddle" sticker in black and red on the seat tower. That is an insignia that only the high end hand built frames out of the Santa Ana plant received. I know you are going to say Mabe my sticker is missing. Trust me I S/O my LE in 2000' and I know what models came out of that plant and the 3000 was definately not one of them. That's not to say your bikes not nice. In fact it looks brand new.
    Thanks. Just want to clarify a few points thought.

    1. I know about the Ping-pong sticker and the whole story already.

    2. I never said it was built in Santa Ana. I said in CA. I have the sticker on the left side chain stay that says "Designed and built in California USA". It never had the ping pong sticker anyway.

    3. This is a 6061 frame. Again, there's the sticker to prove it, right on the inside of the curve that join the top tube and seat tube.

    4. Thanks, my bike is really nice. And yes, it is pretty much in brand new condition. We just did a overhaul of the drive train today and we only have to get a new rd cable because the end frayed. And we ordered a new chain, because even if the stock one was still very good, we didn't want to waste time cleaning it after cleaning out the whole drivetrain. It has the original tires, brake pads, housing, grips, etc...

    We did put new tires (the stock ones still had about 40% life left, but my brother decided he wanted to do so), changed the shifters to the same Deore ones, because the gear optic display was broken on one and the other shifter had trouble. Then the plastic top cap of the stock stem broke due to wrong handling, so we put a nice RaceFace Deus XC stem. Then we had to change the i-drive bearings and crowns races due to 10 years without any maintenance into them, so sand made his way in. Everything else is like new. Even the fork stanchions are perfects. Not a single scuff or scratch. Paid the bike $350. Put in about $80 in upgrades, $150 in maintenance/repairs and countless hours of owner's care and love. The BB is showing some wear signs, but will hold for a while. Drive train has little wear, negligible. Ride quality is awesome

    My brother :
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Original i-Drive riders still out there?-imageuploadedbytapatalk1326088585.750564.jpg  

    Quote Originally Posted by NicoleB28 View Post
    topless. that's what all mtb girls do. we go ride, get topless, have pillow fights in the woods, scissor, then ride home!

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    Btw, here's why I don't own that bike myself. Long story short, i had a deal I couldn't pass on this bike while in the USA, so my dad paid cash (US currency) and I was supposed to paid him back when we get back home (Canada) because I didn't had a US bank account. He never wanted me to pay him back. Instead he gave it to my little brother for his 17th birthday present last year... And I gave him another GT bike too for his commuting now that he started college. So basically he got a hell of a bike for free while I had to work to pay my own bikes. At least I have someone to ride with.

    But he doesn't have a job yet, so when he got the i-drive bill, he started taking care way more of that bike

    So I'm teaching him how to ride, to wrench and to own a bike. Not always easy but at least I don't have to pay the bills. But since I'm doing most of the wrenching, tune ups, cleaning, etc on that bike, I take the liberty to call it mine around here

    Another shot of my bro. You can see the piece of junk I had to build up to ride trails with him instead of riding MY GT
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Original i-Drive riders still out there?-imageuploadedbytapatalk1326089151.169407.jpg  

    Quote Originally Posted by NicoleB28 View Post
    topless. that's what all mtb girls do. we go ride, get topless, have pillow fights in the woods, scissor, then ride home!

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    Wink

    David,



    OK your 3000 is a nice bike but you are wrong on one point. You said it was a 6061 frame. Your bike may have been built in Cal. but it wasn't hand built out of Santa Ana. Only the bikes that came from that plant used Easton 6061 taperwalled aluminum. If yours says 6061 it's not Easton taperwalled. There was another plant in Cal. that machine built frames using 7000 series and some 6061 but not (Easton taperwalled tubing) There was only a select few models that were hand built out of Santa Ana and the 3000 was not one. And high end ones out of that plant was the LE,Y2-k, STS Carbon, Team,Race and,a couple hardtails and a couple road bikes. As far as the "regular" GT i-drive line up goes out of the other Cal. plant. The model lineup is as follows from the top of the line to the bottom. The 1000 then 2000 then 3000 then 4000 and bottom was 5000. So you can see yours is in the middle. Keep in mind even the top of that line the 1000 was a whole pound different in frame weight to any of the i-drives coming out of Santa Ana. They used the regular 6061 (not Easton taperwalled) tubing on the 1000,2000 and your 3000.
    BTW good job on keeping her up and running.
    Last edited by DIRTJUNKIE; 01-08-2012 at 11:56 PM.
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  98. #98
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    Quote Originally Posted by DIRTJUNKIE, View Post
    OK your 3000 is a nice bike but you are wrong one point. You said it was a 6061 frame. Your bike may have been built in Cal. but it wasn't hand built out of Santa Ana. Only the bikes that came from that plant used Easton 6061 taperwalled aluminum. If yours says 6061 it's not Easton taperwalled. There was another plant in Cal. that machine built frames using 7000 series and some 6061 but not Easton taperwalled tubing. There was only a select few models that were hand built out of Santa Ana and the 3000 was not one. And high end ones out of that plant was the LE,Y2-k, STS Carbon, Team,Race and,a couple hardtails and a couple road bikes. As far as the "regular" GT i-drive line up goes. From the top of the line to the bottom. The 1000 then 2000 then 3000 then 4000 and bottom was 5000. So you can see yours is in the middle. Keep in mind even the top of that line the 1000 was a whole pound different in frame weight to any of the i-drives coming out of Santa Ana. They used the regular 6061 (not Easton) tubing on the 1000,2000 and your 3000.
    BTW good job on keeping g her up and running.
    I didn't say it was hand built in Santa Ana. But that it was hand built in CA. Might not totally hand built though. Here's the stickers attached. I was going on my memory, and I don't think it was hand-built like they would do in Santa Ana. I never said it was the Easton tubing either. It's 6061 heat treated aluminum. I know about the signification of the 3000, 2000,1000, etc. As far as I know, 3000 and 1000 frame were pretty much the same, except the color, not talking about components.

    And I take great prides in my GT's
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Original i-Drive riders still out there?-dscn3704_web.jpg  

    Original i-Drive riders still out there?-dscn3703_web.jpg  

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    Quote Originally Posted by NicoleB28 View Post
    topless. that's what all mtb girls do. we go ride, get topless, have pillow fights in the woods, scissor, then ride home!

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    finishing up my sons GT Idrive team.

    I’ve seen the rear shock mounted in both directions on different Idrive bikes. Does it matter what direction it is mounted for performance.

    Also I would like to post pictures. What’s the easiest way? The Picture button asks for a URL, can I just grab a picture from "My Photos” or do I need to upload the photo somewhere first.

    Thanks
    Joe

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    David,
    Let me say that it's awesome what you are doing for your brother.
    Yes like I said earlier the 1000,2000 and 3000 were identical framewise. Just different components. They were machine built from Cal. With 6061 aluminum but "not" Easton 6061 "taperwall" tubing. Those frames used 6061 straight tubing. Granted these frames used a higher grade aluminum than the 4000 and 5000 models which were machine built with 7000 series aluminum.
    To give you some comparison the LE and Y2-k that were hand built out of Santa Ana using the Easton taperwall was a whole pound lighter than the 1000 in frame weight.
    Some other comparison your 3000 fully built cost a little over $600.00. The LE "frame only" cost $2000.00 and sold built for $3900.00. That's how much different it is to save a pound in frame weight they all had the same geometry.
    Last edited by DIRTJUNKIE; 01-09-2012 at 05:46 AM.
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