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  1. #1
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    I-Drive Pivot maintenance/repair

    Here's a quick run down of how you can fix or maintain the pivots on an I-Drive bike. These pivots might be creaking or knocking on you (making you think it's the bottom bracket....mine were knocking on out-of-the-saddle pedaling). However, after this, I think it's good to do this sort of maintenance once or twice a year depending on the mileage whether they are making noise or not. This little tool that John at Performance in Laguna Hills told me to make cost about $30. Happy wrenching!


    Here are the parts you will need. Two bottom bracket tools, some threaded rod, and some nuts and fender washers to hold them in place. You could also use a quick release skewer! Personally I think in the future I'll be using a spring from an RC car to create pressure rather than having to tighten and loosen as you remove the pivots. (you'll see what I mean below.


    The Assembled Tool.


    Remove your crankset


    This will expose both the main pivots.


    If you're running a chain guide, then you'll have to remove the bottom bracket to get to the pivot.


    Using a 4 and 5mm allen, undo the shock to allow the arm to swing down.


    Using a 5 and 6mm allen, take out the securing bolts and the washer.





    The bolts and washers removed allowing removal of the pivot.


    Using your special tool, insert the treaded rod through both sides to keep the BB tools from falling out and stripping the splines.


    Now loosen the left side while holding the right side. NOTE, when loosening, you will be threading out the pivot, putting pressure on the nuts on the outside. Turn the wrench, then loosen the nut, turn the wrench, loosen the nut, and so on until you can turn the BB tool by hand. Then, take out the rod and loosen the left side until it comes out.


    The right side of the pivot needs some help. Using a spark socket, or something similar, take a rubber mallet and tap the pivot out from the left side.


    This is what it will look like as it starts coming out.


    Remove the split beveled washer (Not shown) to expose the bearing. That's a years worth of dirt and I was shocked to see so much in there!


    I'm glad they are sealed! Now take a cloth and gently wipe the dirt off the sides and clean up. Do not press down! Even though they are 'sealed' dirt can still be forced in.


    Once you're finished cleaning everything, make sure to grease the pivot threads with grease (I use poly 1000). Reassemble the upper pivot until hand tight. DO NOT TIGHTEN FULLY YET.


    Proceed to use the same process on the lower pivot. You'll have to move it around to dislodge it and get to the pivot. Look! More dirt!

    Clean and replace bearings and hand tighten. Make sure the swingarm moves freely and there is no binding.

    Tighten both the upper and lower pivots using the tool. Here you'll have to turn and tighten the outer nuts as you screw in the pivot.


    When installing the pinch bolts and washers, please use loc-tite!

    If this doesn't solve the creaking problem, please refer to other posts in the GT Sanction Force Reference thread for lubing the rear dropouts.

  2. #2
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    Great work!

    My first time servicing the i-drive pivots was really intimidating, but in hindsight it's really quite simple. Hopefully this guide with encourage others to do their own service.

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    Any advice on servicing the single main pivot and self-lubing bearings from my old 2001 i-Drive 1.0? It's got the truly old-school Eccentric bottom bracket design, with the dogbone through from the lower end of the downtube, through eccentric shell. There was alot of wobble in the Main Pivot area, and I'd like to remove the pivot, the two sets of bearings left and right sides, get replacements for them and put them back together again with my handy-dandy bench vise. I tried tapping the main pivot out last night with an appropriately sized spark plug box wrench and a hammer, and it only moved out of the end by 1/16." Is there a better way to do this? GT/Pacific are useless. The only GT "dealer" in my area took one look at it, called GT, then told me I was out of luck, but, oh, by the way, we have a sweet new Specialized for $2800 to sell you! I am sure that this is not a difficult fix, but I'd like some advice from someone who may have done this before. I know I can get replacement bearings and even a new main pivot from several suppliers in the UK. Now I just need to get these stubborn things out of the frame.



    Chris

  4. #4
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    I posted a bunch of pics on the yahoo GT I-Drive Team forum that I took of my Team frame and some others from an I-drive poster I have. I'll see if I can put them in this forum this afternoon.
    2009 GT Marathon Team,GT Force 2.0, GT Jelly Belly TT (nude carbon), and a very special Todd Wells Zaskar.

  5. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by NoFearATB
    Any advice on servicing the single main pivot and self-lubing bearings from my old 2001 i-Drive 1.0?
    I had also been in search of service information of the main pivot for the older eccentric I-Drives. I made a thread asking for help and i was advised that i needed to use a hydraulic press...

    I've searched the web, and there isn't much material on servicing the main pivot itself, but here are some documents i've come across which may or may not help:

    - Spare parts list from Monza Imports
    - Assorted manuals from GT

  6. #6
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    just started a thread with some pics from an I-drive poster I have at home. Maybe that will help you guys.
    2009 GT Marathon Team,GT Force 2.0, GT Jelly Belly TT (nude carbon), and a very special Todd Wells Zaskar.

  7. #7
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    Just for some clarification, how come you decided to use two bottom bracket splined tools to loosen the pivot? Does it free spin if you don't hold one side in place? Just asking because in the GT video demonstration, the guy just uses one tool, and loosens one side without holding the other.

    And when tightening the two pivots, is there a known torque spec for how tight they should be? Or is it just enough so there is no resistance in the pivot movement?

    Thanks.

  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by peternguyen
    Just for some clarification, how come you decided to use two bottom bracket splined tools to loosen the pivot? Does it free spin if you don't hold one side in place? Just asking because in the GT video demonstration, the guy just uses one tool, and loosens one side without holding the other.

    Nah, the pivot doesn't free spin. When undoing the pivots you have to be carefull because the tool rolls easily and can damage the splines of the pivot.

    You've probably seen a few Forces or iD's with slightly damaged splines before. It's very
    common. The reason two tools are used here is to keep even pressure on the tool so
    neither one does any damage. It's a great idea and i'll be doing it from now on.

    I dont know what the recommended torque setting is. I just do mine up nice and snugg
    then give it a tiny bit more (highly scientific aren't i!!!). The bearings in there need a some
    preload but not heaps.

    Does anyone know if there is a recommended torque?
    I'm Ron Burgundy?

  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by Eatyapeas
    Does anyone know if there is a recommended torque?
    Ah i see, thanks for explaining that, it makes more sense now. Good tip.

    After i posted, i was looking at some of the manuals. In this one here, there are exploded views of some of the older i-Drives (but not the Force/Sanction), and there are torque specs indicated, although none for the actual two main pivots, just the securing bolts. It also shows the torque specs for the rear drop outs and the i-Link (and the flex bone) for the applicable diagrams. There are instructions included explaining how tight to tighten the main pivot, and it doesn't appear to have a torque spec.

    By the way, how nice are the drawings for the first exploded view (when you zoom in).

  10. #10
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    Yeah, but...

    Quote Originally Posted by Eatyapeas
    Nah, the pivot doesn't free spin. When undoing the pivots you have to be carefull because the tool rolls easily and can damage the splines of the pivot.

    You've probably seen a few Forces or iD's with slightly damaged splines before. It's very
    common. The reason two tools are used here is to keep even pressure on the tool so
    neither one does any damage. It's a great idea and i'll be doing it from now on.
    Hey Eat,

    Instead of the second BB socket, couldn't you just use a really big washer that rests against the BB shell? I'm cheap and don't want to buy a second BB spline socket tool thing.
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  11. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by Appendage
    Hey Eat,

    Instead of the second BB socket, couldn't you just use a really big washer that rests against the BB shell? I'm cheap and don't want to buy a second BB spline socket tool thing.

    Yeah that'd still work. Anything thats gonna hold the BB spline socket jigger thingy nice
    and flat and in the pivot will still work.
    I'm Ron Burgundy?

  12. #12
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    The GT website has new pivot disassemble and assembly videos available to watch. (The music isn't so cheesy this time).

  13. #13
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    Could someone please clarify the the difference between regular grease and marine grease? Am i right to say that the marine is meant to be more water resistant?

    Secondly, the GT videos suggest using anti-seize for 'best results', although it seems most people here are using grease instead. I'd like to hear opinions on what people think would be most ideal for the contact points.

  14. #14
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    Yes, marine greases are a bit better at resisting water washout, and have better corrosion inhibitors. This is because they're meant for boat trailer wheel bearings, which end up being dunked in water/saltwater when launching. Unless you're also regularly dunking your bike in water, then any decent wheel bearing grease will work just as well.

    The recommended Park anti-seize stuff didn't work for me. It dried out after a few weeks and the creaking was back. I replaced it with marine grease, and it lasted several months, but unfortunately the creaking returned. I regreased it and also wrapped some teflon plumbers tape around the bearings. It held up for a few more months... then someone stole my GT Marathon . The new Sensor has a redesigned pivot mechanism that issupposed to address this issue. Now I just need to scrape together the funds.....

  15. #15
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    Oh damn, that's a real bummer. I hope that thief gets what's coming to him...

    I don't have any marine grade grease or anti-seize, but i do have the Finish Line Teflon grease. I suppose i will use that. Has anyone used this grease for the pivots?

    About the infamous creaking, i am happy to report that after about a year on my Force, i have not experienced this. But since it has been a year, i would like to give my bike a full service and clean. What is the cause of the creaking exactly? I've read through the forums, and it still seems uncertain. Aside from the dropout bolts, from what i gather about the creaking from the main pivots, is it due to the friction between the floating bb link and the rear triangle, caused be the torque applied from the drivetrain?

  16. #16
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    main pivot and eccentri bearings

    Should I replace the eccentric bearings if I am doing a total overhaul? I know these are hard to find but, how do I know if they are bad?
    Last edited by JCOX98; 07-11-2010 at 12:42 PM.

  17. #17
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    I think mine was creaking due to play in the BB link. The teflon tape really quieted it down, more than grease alone did, since it took up some of the play. Others have also mentioned that using 1/64" headset spacers/shims eliminates the creaking for them.

  18. #18
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    Cool, I just ran across this thread. I'm starting to get a little creak in my iDrive 4.

    Quote Originally Posted by peternguyen
    And when tightening the two pivots, is there a known torque spec for how tight they should be? Or is it just enough so there is no resistance in the pivot movement?
    From the "GT Suspension Frame Troubleshooting Guide" PDF file at http://www.gtbicycles.com/int/eng/Troubleshooting:

    C.Proper pivot adjustment
    1. Proper adjustment will avoid premature wear and possible creaking in the
    pivot system.
    2. Loosen the pivot pin lock bolt.
    3. Use a standard Shimano BB tool to tighten the pivot pin cap from the left side
    of the bike.
    4. Tighten until all play is gone. Note: there is no torque specification for this
    adjustment because these are angular contact bearings (same as a head set).

    5. Adjust the pivots the same way you would adjust a head set.
    6. Do not over tighten.
    In the same guide, the torque on the pivot pin lock bolt is 60 in-lb.

    A.Tighten the pivot pin lock bolts
    1. The pivot pin lock bolts are to keep the pivot pin and pivot pin cap from
    loosening.
    2. DO NOT USE LOCK TIGHT ON PIVOT PIN THREADS.This will make
    future adjustments very difficult.
    3. Tighten this to 60 in-lb (70 kg-cm)
    As a strange aside, the iDrive 4 exploded view parts list identifies the pivot pin lock bolt as the "M6 Sex Nut."

  19. #19
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    I just serviced the frame for the first time today, by fully disassembling it first, cleaning the hardware, then re-assembling it. While assembling, i left the shock till last, so that i could see how much resistance there is in the suspension through the pivots. Here is what i noticed during the re-assembly:

    - The main pivot on its own was very smooth, like a headset. Moving the swing arm up and down was very smooth and effortless.

    - The BB pivot on its own was not as smooth, and was a little clunky. Though i think this is because one of the bearings has worn.

    - The i-Link, which uses bushings, had a lot more resistance than the bearings. Understandable, but i'm not sure how much resistance there should be, and whether it will make any perceivable difference.

    Once everything was connected, when moving the swing arm, there was now a a bit of resistance. The action was smooth still, but i wonder if the little added resistance affects small bump compliance. Can anyone comment on this?

    I'd like to hear other people's experiences in regards to the pivot motion.

  20. #20
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    Just did my first pivot rebuild

    I was getting odd clacking and tinking sounds when I'd hit square-edged bumps. My biggest worry was that the frame was cracked. So, for the first time, I took the whole thing apart. Mostly, I wanted to be able to closely inspect the frame for cracks, especially in those hard-to-see areas.

    I didn't find any cracks, but I did find that one of the two main pivot bearings was in bad shape. I replaced it and reassembled everything according to the video on the GT webside. Note to peternguyen: according to the video, you attach the shock before tightening the pivot bolts. So, that's the way I did it.

    I got no noises during a test ride up and down the curbs in front of my house, whereas prior to the service, I got plenty. I haven't had time to take it out for a full-one thrashing, but I'm optimistic that the problem is solved.

    Like yours, my main pivot was smoother than the crankset pivot or whatever it's called. Personally, I don't think that a little drag in the movement of the pivots is a big deal. Think about how much leveraged force (ha!) moves these things. But yeah, I used to ride a DW-Link bike, and it was a little more sensitive to small bumps.

    I'd like to shake the hand of the guy who designed this system. It is beautifully simple and easy to service. GT says the Sensor has a "simplifed" version- criminy, how simple can it get? Anyway, props to GT.
    Last edited by Appendage; 11-25-2010 at 12:41 PM.
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  21. #21
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    Quote Originally Posted by Appendage
    Note to peternguyen: according to the video, you attach the shock before tightening the pivot bolts. So, that's the way I did it.
    Yeah i saw this too, but i assumed they did this so that the swing arm was in a 'neutral' position making it easier to assemble the rest, instead of it hanging down.

    Did anyone also notice that for the two pivots, for each pair of bearings, one was etched with

    "TH INDUSTRIES 1 1/8' ACB 36x45 873# STAINLESS", while the other was etched with:
    "TH INDUSTRIES 1 1/8' ACB 36x45 873S# STAINLESS"; note that an "S" suffix is present here.

    Does anyone know what this means?

    EDIT: After searching the web, apparently the 'S' signifies that it is stainless steel. Maybe the 873# didn't have 'STAINLESS' etched after it; i only jotted down the 873S#. So i guess then my next question would be, does it matter which side either of them goes on?
    Last edited by peternguyen; 11-25-2010 at 05:11 PM.

  22. #22
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    No, but

    Quote Originally Posted by peternguyen
    Yeah i saw this too, but i assumed they did this so that the swing arm was in a 'neutral' position making it easier to assemble the rest, instead of it hanging down.

    Did anyone also notice that for the two pivots, for each pair of bearings, one was etched with

    "TH INDUSTRIES 1 1/8' ACB 36x45 873# STAINLESS", while the other was etched with:
    "TH INDUSTRIES 1 1/8' ACB 36x45 873S# STAINLESS"; note that an "S" suffix is present here.

    Does anyone know what this means?
    Yeah, mine had the same stuff on 'em. Dunno what it means, but they're just standard headset bearings. Got my replacements at the LBS, but they could probably be purchased from a bearing supplier for a lot less.
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  23. #23
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    Quote Originally Posted by Appendage

    I'd like to shake the hand of the guy who designed this system. It is beautifully simple and easy to service. GT says the Sensor has a "simplifed" version- criminy, how simple can it get? Anyway, props to GT.


    There are less parts involved with the pivots. So less to go wrong. And its easier to disassemble and reassemble.

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    It's fixed!

    Okay, I took the bike out for a good test ride today, and the noises are definitely gone. Dunno if it was the bad bearing or just the cleaning/relubing of the pivots, but the problem is solved.
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  25. #25
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    Quote Originally Posted by Appendage
    Okay, I took the bike out for a good test ride today, and the noises are definitely gone. Dunno if it was the bad bearing or just the cleaning/relubing of the pivots, but the problem is solved.
    Nice! Good to hear it is running well. After replacing the bad bearings with new ones, did you notice any improvement in bump sensitivity in the back end?

  26. #26
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    Sensitive bumps

    Quote Originally Posted by peternguyen
    Nice! Good to hear it is running well. After replacing the bad bearings with new ones, did you notice any improvement in bump sensitivity in the back end?
    Well, no noticeable change, but I'll tell you something that did make a big difference.

    Summary (if you don't want to read the details): use a shock with a flat (less progressive) spring rate. That would be a hi-vol air shock or a coil.

    Details: I built up the frame (2 years ago) with a Cane Creek air shock. The shock has 3 volume settings for the air chamber. It was set in the stock (middle) position. I noticed the lack of small bump sensitivity, and also that I was rarely using the full travel at recommended sag, at least compared to my DW Link bike. So I moved the volume plate to the high volume setting (which should flatten the spring rate). Immediately the small bump compliance improved, and the shock moved deeper into the travel more frequently. There was still enough ramp-up so that it would bottom only on the biggest hits, and even then not harshly. Set at 20-25% sag. The thing rides super plush, but still pedals efficiently. Moral of the story: the ID works better and the spring rate goes flatter. Love the bike.
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  27. #27
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    Quote Originally Posted by Appendage
    Well, no noticeable change, but I'll tell you something that did make a big difference.
    Interesting. What shock do you have? Sounds nice to have air volume adjustments. I've got the stock RP23 which i don't think you can get higher volume canisters to my knowledge, but i know the RS Monarchs can.

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    Quote Originally Posted by peternguyen
    Interesting. What shock do you have? Sounds nice to have air volume adjustments. I've got the stock RP23 which i don't think you can get higher volume canisters to my knowledge, but i know the RS Monarchs can.
    Cane Creek AD-12. Not sure if it's a current model or not. Volume adjustment requires disassembling the shock, so it's a bit of a hassle. I didn't bother until it was time for a rebuild. I've been pleased with all the Cane Creek stuff I've had, and their tech support has been prompt.
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    Sorry for the bump, but have to first complement ehansen007 on an excellent guide. I've used that method to service my ID5.

    Second thing is a question. The downloadable GT manual shows there are two split bearing seats either side of the bearing, however I've only ever seen one on the outside. My ID5 is a modification of what they show as it's a version produced for UK retailer Halfords (ID5 XCR 2009), could it be they don't use the inside split seat any more? The bearing seems to fit snug into the recess in the frame.

    Problem is the bike has recently developed a huge amount of play in the BB link. The link shifts a lot against the frame, side to side, and means the cranks have a lot of play. The cranks have no play in the BB link itself, but the link does.

    I've done the service before and it went fine. Doing it again this time round I can't seem to shift the play, even tightening up the pivots more. Although I don't want to over tighten them, or is it safe to do this? I've found if too tight the pivot is too tight to move though. I've tried extra grease to help, and stripped it down and tried again, but no luck.

    The bearings on quick inspection looked okay, but I could try replacing them anyway. Anything else to try?

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    I strongly believe that you should have had a split bearing seat on both sides. I don't see how your pivots work without it. There is no way that your suspension is going to sit against that bearing and not grind into your rear triangle and mess it up. Does anyone have a second opinion on this? Unless your I-drive is the new style that has the locking bolts on it and I'm not familiar with the new style. but from the sound of it, you have the same as my Force 2.0 or marathon which require a split seat on both sides. 4 split seats in total (2 per pivot). My Marathon Team also required a couple of shims too.
    2009 GT Marathon Team,GT Force 2.0, GT Jelly Belly TT (nude carbon), and a very special Todd Wells Zaskar.

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    The pivot parts on mine are quite similar to the photos above.

    Unless somehow I'm missing something and haven't noticed them, but I can't see how. I'll strip it down yet again and see.

    I may have managed to lose them last time I did the service, but it was fine for a long time after the service, and only recently developed play. It makes sense it should have the two split seats per bearing though, and the manual shows that, although the manuals GT have are not exactly my model as that was a special job for Halfords.

    Are the split seats theoretically easy to get without buying the full pivot kit (the whole kit in the UK is very expensive)? I can find the bearings fairly easily.
    Last edited by deadkenny; 06-09-2011 at 03:04 PM.

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    I have a 2006 i-Drive 4.2 and a 2008 Force. On the Force, the bearing drops in directly against the frame and then the split cone sits on top of the bearing. On the i-Drive however, there is a bearing seat (which doesn't have a spilt in it) which presses into the frame first, then the bearing slides in and the split cone sits on top of the bearing.
    GT Force 3 ('08) | GT i-Drive 4 2.0 ('06) | GT RTS 3 ('94)

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    You should be able to go to your bike shop and they should be able to help you out. If you take the split seat with you they can try and match one from a regular headset. These split seats come from headsets and so do the bearings. They are 1 1/8 headset bearings. the seat should be available by itself if your local bike shop is willing to help you out. Another way to find them online is to look in the headset section of online shops and find the closest one pictured that matches what you have. Hope this helps you out a bit more.
    2009 GT Marathon Team,GT Force 2.0, GT Jelly Belly TT (nude carbon), and a very special Todd Wells Zaskar.

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    Here's an example of a U.S. website.

    http://www.jensonusa.com/store/produ...ase+Plate.aspx
    2009 GT Marathon Team,GT Force 2.0, GT Jelly Belly TT (nude carbon), and a very special Todd Wells Zaskar.

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    Thanks all.

    I've heard that the UK Halfords ID5 XCR is a bit of a hybrid between models and that the frames are stock with modified improvements from newer frames, or something like that (e.g. the manual for the ID5 shows a straight flexbone, but the Halfords ID5 XCR has the improved dogbone).

    It could be it just seats the bearings directly in the frame. I have to say I don't recall ever seeing any split seats on the frame side since I bought it.

    I'll get the bearings and see if I can get the play out of it anyway. Without split seats, could the frame have damage if it's supposed to have them?

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    Now reading the other posts, I kinda see where your frame may differ from my frames. Mine don't have the inside seat, I guess mine are the new style. They only have the split seat that goes between the outside of the bearing and the rear triangle. There are no split seats that go inbetween the inside bearing race and the front triangle. If you have the ability to post pics that may help some of us understand your dilemma. I'm very curious to see what you have.
    2009 GT Marathon Team,GT Force 2.0, GT Jelly Belly TT (nude carbon), and a very special Todd Wells Zaskar.

  37. #37
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    Okay, I have images, but being new here I don't have enough posts yet. If you can see my Flickr link in my signature you'll see them there (under MTB Misc or just in my main photostream). If not I'll post back here when I can.

    Pulling it apart again it seems like the pivot shifts in the frame, possibly wobbling in the bearings or the bearings are wobbling. The fit into the BB link seems solid so I'm hoping that isn't bust (though it is in a way as I seized on the BB cup on one side by forgetting the thread turns the opposite way to normal on one side! I can live with the existing BB cups for now though but just would have been nice to replace them as they grind a little).

    Just not sure where all the play is. The bearings still don't look worn to me, but I don't know how cartridge bearings show their wear. Could be the bearings just aren't seating right. They seem to fit snug but something shifts when it's assembled.

    Because of the shifting I seem to also have a small gap between the BB link and the frame, and this is causing grease to come out. I try to tighten the pivots up to remove play but I'm having to tighten way too much I think and still doesn't help. Just seems that something's missing or something is broken.
    Last edited by deadkenny; 06-14-2011 at 07:53 AM.

  38. #38
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    I know that my Marathon frame needed some shims to not wobble. These shims go between the split seat and the pivot (or outside of the split seat). My Force didn't have any and rides fine without them, but the Marathon frame had a wobble in it when the nylon ones wore out. They come with some headsets, some are steel and others nylon. I got some steel ones from my local shop. I'm sure you can visit your local shop and they may have some spares. Here's a link to chain reaction cycles and a picture of the nylon one. On another note, I see that you messed with your bottom bracket as well and since you had a little problem I gotta ask this. Did you make sure your bottom bracket had a spacer in it and did you put it back in the right side of the bike? My Force has a spacer on the drive side between the bottom bracket cup and the frame. I wish I was there to help you out in person bro. I'm sure we could have had it fixed by now or at least find out what's going on. I hope this helps you a bit more.

    http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/M...?ModelID=18740
    2009 GT Marathon Team,GT Force 2.0, GT Jelly Belly TT (nude carbon), and a very special Todd Wells Zaskar.

  39. #39
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    one more pic to take if you can. Take a pic of the assembled I-drive that shows that gap between the BB link and the frame. That will kinda tell me if you do need those shims. There's a good chance, if you had the nylon shims, that they wore out and broke off.
    2009 GT Marathon Team,GT Force 2.0, GT Jelly Belly TT (nude carbon), and a very special Todd Wells Zaskar.

  40. #40
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    Will do the other photo later when I get a chance. There's a definite little gap, though didn't seem to be there before. Hadn't noticed shims but could be a chance they fell out.

    As the the BB spacer, yes I remember reading that there would be one. I didn't find one but I only got one side off. I got a new set of cups and it has the spacers in the box. I just didn't get round to fitting it as I messed up the existing one. The problem was that I totally forgot about the thread direction difference. I undid one side with some effort, and did the other and thought it was seized tight so put loads of force into it not realising I'd over tightened it. Tried everything to get it off including soaking in penetrating oil and tried a breaker bar but no success.

    Alternate option is to buy the pivot/BB kit. Someone got one but cost him £160! Would get me all new parts though, but I've seen the same bike going nearly new on ebay for £200.

    Think I may get some shims anyway and give them a try.

  41. #41
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    Okay, one more photo added to my Flickr stream. Difficult to get a good shot but can clearly see a gap between link and the bearing seat.

    A bunch of shims on their way. If for some reason I didn't have shims before I can only think that the bearing seat has worn down or something like that.

    The seat is a bit worn in that it's not all smooth and shiny. I'd get replacements but I'm struggling to find anywhere that does split seats on their own of the right type, at least in the UK. Would any crown race do I wonder? I could take a Dremel or hacksaw to it to make a s split version

    Will see how the shims go if you think they'd do the job. Have to say it makes a lot of sense. Just hadn't though of trying that. That would hopefully stop the left to right through the frame shifting. There's play up and down also though, but maybe that's reduced by a tight fit and probably not an issue given the downward pedalling force.

  42. #42
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    Struggled to get that headset shim, but local DIY shop had some similar looking things in the plumbing section (and much cheaper).

    Turned out to be too thick though even though they were quite thin. Took a Dremel to one to sand it down very thin. Fitted that, and so far so good.

    Next up is sorting out the squeak which is either the top pivot or the BB. The BB needs sorting also but think I'm looking at getting the whole BB link + pivot kit.

    Thanks for the advice and tip on the shim

  43. #43
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    Not wanting to give away my secret source of GT parts... but... you could always try these guys:

    http://www.bikelab.co.nz/products/ac...t-frame-parts/

    I've always got great service from them and they are very helpful - they may be able to send parts to other countries around the world (other than Australia and New Zealand).
    GT Force 3 ('08) | GT i-Drive 4 2.0 ('06) | GT RTS 3 ('94)

  44. #44
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    The exact kit I need is (or was) available here in the UK from Halfords who had the exclusive deal on the bike, although they don't have the deal any more and stopped selling the bike. The company that imports the frames (Merida UK) for them have run out of stock of parts but they say only Halfords can sell them anyway. From what someone else said the whole kit is £160. I've seen the whole bike on ebay for £200!

  45. #45
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    Have you guys checked out GT's tech documents on their website? They have some good stuff about iDrive. I printed out the tech manual for my Sensor for reference when I have to service the pivots.

    http://www.gtbicycles.com/support/manuals

  46. #46
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    Quote Originally Posted by ak57 View Post
    Have you guys checked out GT's tech documents on their website? They have some good stuff about iDrive. I printed out the tech manual for my Sensor for reference when I have to service the pivots.

    http://www.gtbicycles.com/support/manuals
    +100 to this. Just redid the pivots on my Sanction and the Sensor manual was a big help. Minor differences aside, it describes exactly where to grease, which I was unclear on. My bike feels amazing now, better than when I first bought it even. (The motion control upgrade on my Domain that I did has also been great.)

  47. #47
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    In the 1st post, it was specified that "When installing the pinch bolts and washers, please use loc-tite!"

    What kind of loc-tite should be used?

    Thanks in advance.

  48. #48
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    blue, 248 is what I use. It is applied like a chapstick.You can use 242 which is a liquid or 246 which is a gel

  49. #49
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    Thanks MitchD! Appreciate it.

  50. #50
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    Hey thanks for this post I just serviced my 2006 idrive 5 4.0 without a hitch>
    You are a hero!
    Erik

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