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  1. #1
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    Help! My Marathon i-drive started creaking again!?

    My I-drive was "creaking" then almost a grinding noise, took it into the shop & they lubed up the BB & it was fine for 3-4 rides.
    They said it was pretty dry & some of the anodized finish had come off inside.
    Anyone else run into this? Any advice?
    It started slightly creaking again last nite.
    It's only a few months old
    2008 GT Marathon 2.0
    http://www.gtbicycles.com/usa/eng/Pr...rchived=t#2619

    Thanks
    Last edited by Rock River; 04-01-2009 at 09:06 AM.

  2. #2
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    Have your shop apply anti-sieze to the pivot contact points and threads. That should cure the sound. If they aren't sure how to do that, they can contact GT and get help. It is pretty easy and shouldn't take long (since the GT pivots are so easy to service.)

  3. #3
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  4. #4
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    Thanks for the info, is this a common problem w/ the GT pivots?
    I've only ridden about 6 hours ( 1 light washing ) since they worked on the BB/pivots.

    Another person also mentioned Teflon tape?

  5. #5
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    My GT Marathon 3.0 also started making creaking sounds after about three months of 2x/week riding. It sounds like it's coming from the bottom bracket, but it's really the pivots. The mechanics at Performance Dublin told me it's a common problem. The pivot's aren't lubed (anti-seized?) enough at the factory. They reapplied more anti-seize and that stopped the creaking - but only for a few more days! Then the creaking re-started, even louder than before.

    I took apart the pivots myself and found out the anti-seize had dried up into a black, gritty, clumpy paste. At this point, it was more like an abrasive than a lubricant. I wiped it all out and replaced it with generous amounts of generic blue marine grease I had lying around. It's been quiet for about a month now, so I'm hoping it will stay that way.

    On my last ride I noticed that the headset is also starting to creak. They use the same bearings as the pivots, so I'll try replacing the anti-seize with some grease there, too.

  6. #6
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    Once I took mine back they greased it up a lot & it's been fine ever since.
    I just washed it last nite & I'm hoping the next time I take it for a spin it doesn't start creaking.

    You're exactly right, they said it was bone dry - not enough lube put in there from when it was originally put together. You'd think they'd check that before selling them, but ...

  7. #7
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    I'm new to the MTB set, having owned my marathon elite a whole 4 days and ridden it for about 45 minutes. However I have 13 years of working on seahawk helicopters and also grew up in my dads shop. It makes no sense to me that they use antiseise compound on a no heat moving part. The stuff is made to keep parts that get hot from getting "seized together. Specifically spark plugs to cylinder heads and that sort of thing.
    the blue marine grease mentioned above is the same thing I slap on the axle of my dirt bike every time i change the rear tire. works real good and will probably be going into my pivots real soon.it does not wash out at all.

  8. #8
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    I got a 08 marathon in So cal I ride roughly 50 to 70 miles per week got my bike in sep of 08. I had heard of these problems before but have not yet experienced it yet. Here is my maint regieme get back from ride pressure wash bike mainly for chain and sprockets, lube chain and put a couple of drops of synthetic motor oil on fram pivots. Hey no noise what a concept but the draw back is it will look like construction equipment with the oil and dirt there I dont pressure wash this area of the bike if it does get wet I blow it dry.works for me.

  9. #9
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    try hub bearing grease for cars. Tons of hard miles on my sanction and not a creak from the piviots.

  10. #10
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    boat trailer hub grease

    I 've always found this stuff works the best as it made for repeated drenchings in salt water

    surprisingly it looks just like good old Phil Wood grease

  11. #11
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    http://www.plews-edelmann.com/brochu...cation_id=2635

    they have it in a 400 lb drum. perfect for the OCD maintainence type rider

  12. #12
    Shred all that can be
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    So any new news on the creaking with the Marine grease?
    "This sticker is dangerous and inconvienent, but I do love Fig Newtons"

  13. #13
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    It's been a month so far and the marine grease is still keeping things quiet. The stuff just doesn't wash out, leak out, or dry out like the anti-seize paste did.

    I agree with mdeamicis. Anti-seize only makes sense to me when there are extreme thermal changes and high static forces (or there's titanium parts involved). A perfect example of where it's ideal is spark plug threads, where anti-seize is an absolute necessity to keep the steel threaded plug from seizing in the aluminum heads of most modern engines. However bike pivots don't experience high heat and they are subject to very dynamic loads.

    Do other FS bicycle manufacturers also recommend using anti-seize on their bearings, or is it just GT?

  14. #14
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    Just GT.... And it's kinda coming clearer now that I realized GT is affiliated with Finish line..
    "This sticker is dangerous and inconvienent, but I do love Fig Newtons"

  15. #15
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    my LBS said they've talked w/ GT,
    some of their bikes have bee arriving w/ very little great on the pivot/ idrive.
    the mechanic said he also used teflon tape on his Force & it's doing well

  16. #16
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    what do you mean by teflon tape? As in putting it on the contact points?
    "This sticker is dangerous and inconvienent, but I do love Fig Newtons"

  17. #17
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    Taking this idea, i took some threadlock teflon tape and wrapped the rear triangle where the replaceable dropouts make contact pretty liberally. Cut out holes for the bolts and reinstalled the dropouts on my Sanction. Very snug and very silent afterwards. I never liked the idea of greasing the metal as there is no way it will last with a non sealed area like that. I am feeling much better about the teflon wrap and will let everybody know if it does not last.

  18. #18
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    I had a heavy creaking under load on my i-drive 5. After rebuilding the main pivot and the BB pivot using automotive hub grease the sound remained. After a bit of poking around, I found the rear dropouts were loose and causing the creaking. Greased up the hardware and tightened it up and its been fine for the last few days. Can't say for certain that this is the issue in this case, but worth a shot considering how easy it is to access it.

  19. #19
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    Check the rear drop out.

    My shop couldn't figure out the creaking. The bike was almost new. I assumed it was the bottom bracket. They took it apart, applied teflon tape to the threads, greased it ... still noisy. The pivots weren't at fault either. I eventually found a tip on some New Zealand GT forum that suggested tightening the rear drop out bolt. That, amazingly, solved the problem.

    Of course the pivots started to creak on their own over time. I put on about 650 miles on my 08 Marathon Team this year before I had to warranty the frame. In that time I brought in the bike to have the pivots serviced about 3 times. Every so often the main pivot would loosen up (even with Locktite applied) -- but that was an easy fix. I'm not certain if they used AntiSeize -- one mechanic felt it was too abrasive. However, I wish they had followed GTs instructions because the noises and problems kept coming back. Eventually the lower pivot became 'ovalized' and was full of slop... I didn't think that should've happened so quickly (just over a year of riding).

    Want to hear how bad it gets? Check out this video from a race in April. I'm the third guy coming through:
    http://www.cyclingdirt.org/videos/co...at-2-leaders-1

    At the same race, I went to pass another rider: "On Your Left". To which she replied, "I know, I can hear your bike".

    Good luck.

  20. #20
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    Has there ever been a real solution to this issue? I just bought an idrive 5 from performance bike and on day 3 it started creaking like my grandmother's hip. The repairman tried cleaning and greasing and the problem didn't go away. based on the zillions of reports of this issue, it's obviously a design defect. Is GT going to stand behind this or are they going to pretend the problem doesn't exist? Will a new bottom bracket (NON GT) fix the problem or should I just return and exchange for something with a better design? Note, that I haven't even ridden it hard yet. Mostly street and some light hard-packed trails. I can't imagine riding this hard at this point.

    By the way, the derailer hangers were bent too (when brand new).

    Is Mongoose or Fuji any better or is this just what you get when you buy a made in taiwan bike for under $1500 ?!?

    VERY UNHAPPY IN CLEVELAND...

    Jack

  21. #21
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    Quote Originally Posted by jzucker
    Has there ever been a real solution to this issue? I just bought an idrive 5 from performance bike and on day 3 it started creaking like my grandmother's hip. The repairman tried cleaning and greasing and the problem didn't go away. based on the zillions of reports of this issue, it's obviously a design defect. Is GT going to stand behind this or are they going to pretend the problem doesn't exist? Will a new bottom bracket (NON GT) fix the problem or should I just return and exchange for something with a better design? Note, that I haven't even ridden it hard yet. Mostly street and some light hard-packed trails. I can't imagine riding this hard at this point.

    By the way, the derailer hangers were bent too (when brand new).

    Is Mongoose or Fuji any better or is this just what you get when you buy a made in taiwan bike for under $1500 ?!?

    VERY UNHAPPY IN CLEVELAND...

    Jack
    I went through 2 different forces and had about 5 different services between the two. I gave up and got a specialized. Still tawianese made but it seems better so far.

  22. #22
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    Quote Originally Posted by aenema
    Taking this idea, i took some threadlock teflon tape and wrapped the rear triangle where the replaceable dropouts make contact pretty liberally. Cut out holes for the bolts and reinstalled the dropouts on my Sanction. Very snug and very silent afterwards. I never liked the idea of greasing the metal as there is no way it will last with a non sealed area like that. I am feeling much better about the teflon wrap and will let everybody know if it does not last.

    I would have to agree with you. I have a 06 ID 7 1.0 beater bike and used teflon tape on all threaded pivot points including BB and thread ID caps. No more creaking. It has been almost 6 months. I also have put the teflon tape ona new Carbon Force Pro.....three month and so far so good. It also doesn't ooze out of the caps and attract dirt.

  23. #23
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    jzucker - did the shop remove the bearings and reapply antiseize to the frame? They come with very little antiseize from the factory, and it dries out quickly into an abrasive, clumpy mess. Instead of having the shop do it, you may just want to do it yourself and use some waterproof marine grease instead. It seems to last longer than antiseize. The Sanction/Force reference thread has the link to the i-drive disassemble/reassembly videos on GT's web site.

    BTW - I also thought it was the bottom bracket and the shop replaced it but it didn't do a darn thing to stop the creaking. The problem was the lower set of pivot bearings were almost completely dry. I lubed them up myself with grease and the creaking went away.

  24. #24
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    No they didn't try that but I'm not sure I want a bike that's going to need to be greased up like that every few rides. Seems like a design deficiency really.

    Quote Originally Posted by desolder
    jzucker - did the shop remove the bearings and reapply antiseize to the frame? They come with very little antiseize from the factory, and it dries out quickly into an abrasive, clumpy mess. Instead of having the shop do it, you may just want to do it yourself and use some waterproof marine grease instead. It seems to last longer than antiseize. The Sanction/Force reference thread has the link to the i-drive disassemble/reassembly videos on GT's web site.

    BTW - I also thought it was the bottom bracket and the shop replaced it but it didn't do a darn thing to stop the creaking. The problem was the lower set of pivot bearings were almost completely dry. I lubed them up myself with grease and the creaking went away.

  25. #25
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    by the way, if it's the pivot bearings why does it only creak when you are pedaling hard and not when you Flex the suspension/pivot joint?

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