1. DON'T PAINT IT! Thats one of the cool GT paint jobs, painting that would be a crime.
2. The bike is fairly old, thats cool, but many of the parts are looking original, which is only bad if you plan to change them, as new parts won't match up with other parts... eg, changing the stem, that looks like an old quill type stem (it goes INTO the headset), replacing that with a new one will require a new stem, new headset and new forks. Otherwise you'll have to find an old stem that suits your needs that is still a quill, either new old stock from somewhere or a 2nd hand one.
also the brakes, the brakes you have on there are cantilever brakes, so to replace the lever you don't need the exact same lever, but you do need the same type of lever, in this case a cantilever compatable lever, which once again means buying an old lever, usually 2nd hand. You could replace the levers and brakes with some newer V-brake ones.
3. It looks like the previous owner cut off the shifters, who knows why, maybe they broke a shifter and replaced it with a pod (unattached) shifter, but why they did it to both sides??? Getting 7 speed shifters these days ins't that easy these days.
All this stuff, I'm sure there are companies out there that are still making quill stems, canti-brake levers, but ebay is your friend there. If you just want to replace like for like, then just getting Shimano STX will be fine, but you can always "upgrade", look for shimano XT
4. looks like maybe a 1995 model.
A couple issues I see from those pictures.
1) That bike would have come with a threadless headset. Is there a bolt on the right side of the stem where the two parts meet? (There should be).
The stem and bar are both heavy steel, so replacing them with even low end aluminum parts will help.
2) You do need some new brake levers. Shouldn't be hard to find canti levers at your local shop or online. I see a pair of Tektro online for under $20. There's nothing wrong with properly set up canti's. You might want to put new pads on, since those are likely hard as rocks by now.
3) What kind of cranks are those? Shimano LX? they aren't original and they look kind of long in the picture. What size frame is that? There should be a number forged on the inside of the crank arm - 170, 175, or 180.
4) probably a good idea to replace tires and tubes if they show any signs of rot. (Much cheaper than dental work)
5) I'd also get rid of that huge seat and maybe the seat post as well. You'll save some weight there too.
6) Don't paint it! There are some extra decals on the top tube (That GT doesn't belong there) Take those off if you can, but don't cover the "Team Scream" paint job. ;-)
The bike is a 1995 and it was right in the middle of GT's steel frame lineup. It should be a dependable first bike that will serve to teach you about riding and wrenching. In my opinion it's not worth upgrading the parts much beyond what the original spec was. That bike sold for around $550 new (in 1995).
I couldn't wait like I should have and ordered some new parts earlier today -
Kalloy Adjustable Threadless Stem: 31.8
Product Id: 333222367907
size / color: [90mm / Black]
at 23% off
(1x) Ritchey Rizer Handlebar 31.8mm with 35mm rise
Product Id: 333222370919
at 13% off
(1x) Lizard Skins Charger Single Compound Grip
Product Id: 333222384541
size / color: [One Size / Black]
at 10% off
(1x) Shimano Acera M421 V-Brake Levers
Product Id: 333222384919
size / color: [Pair / Black]
Will this stuff work... From the research I did today and based off of a PM I got with this bikes specs it should be or I interpreted it to be a 1 1/8" threadless stem...
Went for a 3.5 mile ride tonight and it was pretty smooth but my hands got numb from all my weight on the handlebars... Which is why I wanted to upgrade all those parts to raise the bar up a little bit...
How did I do?
I just got home and took at look at the stem... It is threadless and measured 1 1/8" across so I should be good with that stem I ordered correct??? And I measured the steerer tube that was exposed and it was about 1 1/2" so the 40mm stack height of the stem should fit well.. May have to remove one spacer possibly but I should have room...
Also looked at the model of the gear shifters on it and its a Shimano SL-MC40... Link below.
Amazon.com: Shimano SL-MC40 STX/Alivio Rapidfire Plus 7-Speed Shifter Set: Sports & Outdoors
Here is pic with stem removed...
Last edited by shan1784; 07-16-2013 at 09:13 PM.
we'll i'll be, that is a threadless stem, couldn't see any pinch bolts so figure muct be quill.
the brake levers... well they will work, just not very well, probably worse than it was, v's take different cable pull to cantis.
Didn't realize that about the brakes.. I had some V-Brakes added to my order so I will be swapping those out as well...
Are there any foreseeable issues in upgrading to the V-Brakes... Will they be compatible with this bike?
they should be fine, I do memories of the stud being too long on may manitou frame, tu don't recall any other issues on other frames and forks, so should be fine.
V brakes will mount to the frame. I would get v brake specific levers, and I would also get one of those horseshoe looking brake boosters because v-brakes put forces on those seat stays they were not designed to handle. What happens is that when the extra power of the v brakes is applied, the seat stays will spread apart because they just are not strong enough, and your brakes will work like *S*. The booster keeps the stays from spreading, and the power goes into braking like it should.
Also, the rear cantilever cable may have a yoke like setup that goes around both sides of the seat tube that is fed from a little cable guide on the under side of the top tube just in front of the seat tube. You should be able to run cable housing from that (through the 'noodle') to your v-brake. I have a 1996 GT steel frame that I was able to adapt to v-brakes that way.
My shopping list keeps getting longer... Thanks for the info.
You don't "need" a brake booster, if you find they work crappily then get one. I have never and still don't use one and brakes work fine, thats been on steel, aluminium and ti frames. Only time I had a problem was with mushiness when I had the old red DX levers, switched to XT ones, problem went way.
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