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  1. #1
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    GT Sanction and Force reference thread

    I've been using the MTBR forums to both post and receive info on these bikes. They are new to the market and as such they have their little quirks. Let's share and talk about them here.

    So far my personal experience with the bike has been one of amazing performance but with a few mechanical issues that are easily solved. I'll list here:

    1. Rock Shock Lyrik oil leak-Sanction- Not limited to GT owners, this 2-Step fork has complex internals and as such has developed a leaky reputation in the Mission Control leg. SRAM is currently backordered on these because of it. While I've probably lost a few cc's of oil, it's not been enough to deter me from riding it, in fact I just took it to Mammoth and it was awesome. I'm waiting to hear from Performance as to when my parts come in.

    2. Main Pivots- There are actually two large pivots just above the bottom bracket and these have a tendency to come from the factory a bit loose. This causes noise that can be mistaken for the bottom bracket. I had Performance tighten them up as it takes a special tool or ghetto tool (a QR skewer with two stem top caps to hold the main inner section together while tightening the outers with a free wheel tool.) No problems since.

    3. Rear Dropouts- The rear drop outs are completely separate from the frame which is nice if you break one. However, these can produce noise which can also be mistaken for BB noise. Simple remove, clean, and lube the contact areas as well as the allen screws with something like anti seize or Poly lube 1000, etc. No problems since. I anxious to see how long it lasts. It was so easy to do though I think it could be part of the regular "deep clean" process.

    4. Brake noise- common with any bike with semi-metallic pads, these XT brakes can be noisy. I simply replaced the fronts with the XTR pads which have more organic material in them and they brake just as well.

    5. Seat quick release- Nothing major here but if you like to adjust your seatpost on the fly, the GT QR clamp will not hold it's position. Once released, there is no tension on the clamp and it just falls. I simply replaced this with a Salsa clamp which is much better.

    6. 11-32 cassette- I just noticed that GT specs out an 11-34 cassette yet mine came with an 11-32. Believe me, this does make a big difference when pedaling a 33lb bike! I'll inquire with Performance.

    7. 32T front Chainring-Sanction only- This is simply not kosher. You'll be spinning out before you know it. I've since switched to a 36T front and it's perfect. Blackspire makes one for $25. The only problem is, it's sticks out beyond the bashguard.

    Mods I've really enjoyed thus far:

    -Monkey Lite high rise carbon bar
    -I tried the Sun Race 50mm stem but went back to the stock Thompson 70mm elite for more cockpit room. I switch back to the Sun Race when doing bike parks.
    -Stan's tubeless. Reduced rolling weight and better sidewall traction really help this heavier bike.
    -SDG Team I-Beam Saddle- Lighter and cool looking but not as comfortable as the WTB
    -Shimano M424 pedals- I don't know how any one likes those CB Acids. They seemed noisy.
    -Lizard Skins Oversized chainstay guard- the chainstay gets whacked pretty hard so it's a neccesity
    -Blackspire Stinger- this chain will derail with some of the bit hits it can take and this little item for $30 really helps.

    That's it! Hope this helps some folks out as I've had to search long and wide on some of this stuff!

  2. #2
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    Great info Ehansen. My creak went away with the rear dropout lubing and the bottom bracket pivot point tightening. So far no noise. I'm very satisfied with my Force 2.0

  3. #3
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    Another small difference I noticed was the headset. The GT site says my bike should have a FSA Orbit headset. It looks like an orbit but it says cane creek??? Good thread!

  4. #4
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    Had major creaking/cracking noise with my GT Force 3.0. Took it back to the original bike shop and they had no idea how to fix the issue other than to try and grease the bottom bracket. Took it out after the greasing and the noise was less frequent and not as loud for about the first two hours I rode and was then back again as bad as ever.

    So I took it to Performance, since they sell GTs, and one of the mechanics was familiar with the issue. Sounds like the problem is something with the two pivot points that they fixed at no cost since the bike is still under waranty. So far no creeking/cracking at all. The mechanics at Performance are my new best friends. I'll update and let everyone know if the noise returns or if it was a fix.

    Other than the noise problems (which are hopefully gone now) I've had no issues with my GT Force.

  5. #5
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    hey, SoMo, can you please post results after that mechanic and ask him what really cause creaking? It'll be very helpful (assuming noise is coming from pivots) to fixing that in future.

    I believe it BB pivot link (may be shims with bearings or so). I can't find it by myself though I've rebuild pivots.

    Thanks.
    "We do not stop playing because we are old; we grow old because we stop playing."

  6. #6
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    I'm going for a ride today and plan to bash on the bike pretty hard. If there is no creaking it will be the first time since I bought the bike since even after the last tune-up it still creaked right out of the shop. If the noise is gone, I'll call and ask the mechanic what he did and post it on here.

  7. #7
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    ... and if we just ...

    I went for two long rides in the desert this weekend and....














    ....not one single creak. It was perfect, wonderful, beautiful, music to my ears, silence the entire time. Completely fixed. My bike didn't even begin to make noise after four straight hours of mashing through hot, dusty, rocky desert terrain.

    When I find out what the mechanic did to my bike I'll post the solution.

  8. #8
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    Glad to here it
    Yesterday I've rebuild bottom link with new bearings and grease but still creaking.

    So it or dogbon or swingarm link. And I'm waiting for your solution how to back it to normal condition. I'm looking forward for your post
    "We do not stop playing because we are old; we grow old because we stop playing."

  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by SoMo Addict
    IWhen I find out what the mechanic did to my bike I'll post the solution.
    I really need to know. details?

  10. #10
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    If you want to call and talk to the mechanic yourself I took the bike to Performance Cycles in Chandler Arizona and the shop manager is the one who worked on my bike.

    He did an awesome job. My bike hasn't felt so nice to ride ever.

    Talked to someone from the shop. They said that because parts of the bike are made of carbon, a special type of lube needs to be used on the bike to make sure the lube doesn't dry out in the pivot points because these are constantly being worked when riding the bike. The lube is some sort of heavy teflon like lube with carbon micro balls or something like that? The creaking noise was coming from the pivot points and reapplying this kind of lubricant in there was the fix. It isn't the normal lubricant they use for most bikes. They asked me to just come down there with my bike and they would show me where to lube my bike if it happens again and that they sell this special teflon like lube.

    I hope you all know what this stuff is they are talking about. I don't.
    Last edited by SoMo Addict; 09-22-2008 at 08:01 PM.

  11. #11
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    First of all: carbon parts?
    I thought you've force3 which completely alu?

    I'm afraid that call to that mechanic can cost me at least half of new frame as I'm living on different side of our planet

    So, as I take a look a little bit deeply at my Idrive5 and find some time (and of course, motivation ) to rebuild pivot on swingarm, main reason of creaking is dirt/mud/etc in pivots.
    As I've changed bearing in this pivot (as grease well) and clean it from dirt (frame ran about 1.5 year) and take it to little test drive - no creaking! ta-dam!

    In short, for Alu frames of GT suspension cleaning and regreasing should help to avoid almost all annoying sounds. Don't know anything about carbons frames (haven't it).
    I've used Motorex Bike Grease 2000 for pivots and new bearing kit (4 bearings) for Force/Sanction from my LBS.

    But, SoMo_Addict, thanks for support and explaining your solution - it'll help somebody else, i'm sure!
    "We do not stop playing because we are old; we grow old because we stop playing."

  12. #12
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    Glad to hear its not creaking! Makes riding so much more enjoyable.

  13. #13
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    Have been riding a Sanction 2.0 frame for 2 weeks. The most horrific creaking I have ever heard. So bad I can feel it through the pedals. It is a warranty frame with all of my old parts. Old frame didn;t creak, definetly the frame. Sounds like the thing is going to break in half, snap crackle pop! type sounds with force on the pedals. Bike shop has no clue, I am afraid to let them touch it anyways after watching them mess with it a little today. All they want to do i over tighten everything and make sure the pedals are lubed. Please, give me the number of that performance shop!

  14. #14
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    any GT dealer should know what you are talking about. This is not uncommon. Tell them to service the I-drive pivots. Your issue is described exactly like mine, now completely gone. Pret at Performance Bicycles in Chandler AZ does the work here. You can look it up.

  15. #15
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    Yeah, I just got an email back from GT and they acknowledged that this is a common problem. They told me to use an anti seize compound on the threads in the pivots. Going to try that with some optimism, as it sounds like others have solved the problem. I will post my results. Frame rides great though. Loving it on the downhill when I don;t have to listen to it!

  16. #16
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    I thought I would ask here. I use an ETA fork that i can lock down for climbs, on other frames it seems like a real benefit.

    On this frame, with fork locked down, I notice that the bike feels distinctly more difficult to pedal. Am I imagining this? Is it a geometry thing with independent drive mechanism? Anybody else experiencing this?

  17. #17
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    I have the exact same setup. I use the ETA lockdown for steeper climbs only. It seems essential for that with the head angle not being exactly xc oriented. I find that it pedals fine, but if there are obstacles and its not super steep, I find it way more economical to climb with the fork extended. I probably keep my shock sag less than most people too though.

  18. #18
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    post. sorry need to keep this relevant (getting a new santion frameset!!!)
    "This sticker is dangerous and inconvienent, but I do love Fig Newtons"

  19. #19
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    after 2 months creek free, it has come back.

  20. #20
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    I can no longer recommend this frame, the creaking is just too crazy. A servicing (under warranty) got rid of it for awhile, but it came back with vengeance. Probably the last GT I will own, this my third GT frame in 12 years.

    To make matters worse, after being told to bring the bike in for another warranty servicing, I spent 3 days without it. I returned on my promised day, only to find out that they never touched it. Never called me or tried to communicate. They now wanted to charge me $80, and put me without my bike for another week. Sparing the details, in less than a minute, I was treated with less dignity than I have ever experienced by a service related shop.

    Performance bikes, Chandler AZ.

    IF ANYONE EVER uses this bike shop, do not be taken in by the manager, Lance. This guy is the snake from hell. About as slippery as they get...this "boy" really needs to reconsider the uniform he wears to work, because customer serviice is NOT his calling. I wouldn't hire him to manage my sons toybox. By the time he was done with me I felt lucky to still have the bike...so I took it home unfixed rather than yielding to his trickery.

    I have spent maybe $5000 over 10 years at this store (granted it used to be supergo), and after this experience I will never return, or recommend it while it holds the same name. I am one of those people that gets very angry when treated like an idiot that just emerged from the incubator.

    As for the Force/Sanction, perhaps someone who has figured out GT's design flaw, could post a tutorial on how to remedy it, assuming it can be fixed. My frame began creaking inside the warranty, and GT is not going to take care of this "pre-existing" condition. If you are thinking about getting one, give it some careful thought. These were some of my main concerns when purchasing a Pacific Bikes frame, and so I can't say I am surprised, it is what it is, a post-bankruptcy compromise. I love it as long as I don't have to pedal.

  21. #21
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    I, for one, am extatic about my Force 2.0. I had some creaking after I bought it. I went and took the rear dropouts out and lubed them with a water resistant lube (white lithium grease). I did the same for all the pivots in the i-d suspension/ bb area. I went ahead and also put an extremely light coating on the seat tube. Enough not to make it slippery but to quiet it down. This was over three months ago and it is still going strong. Everything is tight and no creaking. I don't know how mechanically inclined you are MasterP, but when it comes to doing creak maintenance I don't trust anyone but myself eventhough my Local shop is pretty awesome. I'm in Oklahoma City and if you were any closer I would have loved to help you with your problem, cuz a creak is not fun to have, but to give up on a great bike because of it, is just not right. If you have the time and the ability to do so, I would start with lubing the rear dropouts and nothing else, then move to the seatpost, then the bottom bracket and pivot areas. I would do one by one until you find the creak. If you ever make it to Oklahoma let me know, maybe I can help you out. If I ever visit my cousins in Phoenix and you haven't given up on the bike then I'll let you know and maybe I can help you out. I'm sure the creaking will come back. When it does, I'll take out my lithium grease tube and do it all over again, but I love working on bikes so that's not a problem to me. I even work on my buddy's beaten up Jamis bikes.

  22. #22
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    I have built several bikes, I won't give up on it. My remarks are more about dealers, ethics etc. Nothing nags at me worse than someone who won't follow through on a promise, then somehow finds a way to blame you for their decision to be a meathead. If I conducted myself this way in life, I would still be working the paper route I started 30 years ago.

    These specific bikes appear to have very specific creaking in the main pivots. You have to pull the whole bike apart to do it. It's a high labor item thus far, you have to remove the cranks just to get to them. It's a whole lot more painful than regular maintenance. If it was once a year, no complaints. But in our dust, every 6 weeks?

    Oh, and thanks for the offer. C'mon down, its good riding hear.

  23. #23
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    Is there a simple bike stand that i can attach to a workbench? One that holds the seat post.

  24. #24
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    Don't know about the bike stand MP2. I bought a stand alone bike stand from minoura 3 years ago and it still works well. I'm glad you're not giving up on the bike man. Oklahoma can get pretty dusty sometimes. Our trails are a mix of hardpack and sand. Sometimes after a good rain, you can find sand and mud just a few feet from each other. On your creaking problem, I'd say start trying different greases. The lithium has worked well for me this past summer, even in a sandy year. It sucks when you can't count on dealers to be honest and fair with you. I'm lucky to have a great bike shop that helps me out. I still do most of my maintenance on all my rides unless it's something that requires more knowledge or tools than what I have. I wish you the best and I hope you find the culprit on your creaks and fix it. I would think even some type of teflon grease may help you out. I guess water proof isn't really that important in Arizona huh? If I ever make it to AZ. I'll look you up bro.

    GT J

  25. #25
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    I had the creaking problem with my IDXC 1.0, a month after I bought it in 2006. I brought it to a shop to fix it. After a week the creaking was back again. So I decided to service the bike of my own. I bought the necessary tools and with the help of a friend I took the bike apart. I did everything gt jorgito described and I took a lot of grease. The result was no creaking for two years.

    This year in August I bought a sanction 1.0. Before the first ride, I took it apart and greased everything. No creaking till now.

  26. #26
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    I have some different greases, including a marine type I use for the boat trailer. I'll try that first.

  27. #27
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    Quote Originally Posted by masterp2
    Is there a simple bike stand that i can attach to a workbench? One that holds the seat post.
    Yes, but it's not the cheapest. I went to Costco and bought that huge vice they were selling for $100. I bolted that to the workbench (I actually bought for doing other work) and then I got the Park Tool Work Stand and a 8inch section of pipe and mounted it up. it's been awesome. Let me know if you need a pic.

  28. #28
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    I just weighed my Force 2.0 with time alium pedals and it weights 31.4 lbs. It is totally stock. I guess we can use this as a reference to get ours to loose some poundage. I'm gonna put my crossmax XL on it and it should drop about a pound or so. I will eventually change the bars and other heavy stuff and see where it gets me.

  29. #29
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    Creaking Update

    I want to update this creaking thing. There are 2 different creaking issues. I have now had both of them, confirmed.

    1. The pivots
    2. The dropouts

    Each has a different sound. When my dropout creak started, I noticed the sound was different from the pivot problem I had earlier. I dismissed it as personal sanity issue. Now I realize I should have paid closer attention.

    The pivot issue probably has not recurred, but I pulled it all apart to fix my (dropout) creak, and my frustration peaked when it was not fixed.

    I determined the dropout problem by holding the front brake, and holding the dropout while off the bike, one foot on the crank. You can feel it. I had put an anti-sieze compound on there a few months ago, and would suggest not doing this. It didn't last. Use good sticky grease.

  30. #30
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    I didn't use any anti-seize on my just because anti-seize eventually dries out and offers no lubrication whatsoever. I went with a moisture repelling lithium grease and it's still working well. I'm gonna ride the bike in the snow if it snows here in Oklahoma this winter and see how it holds out. So far dirt and sand have not affected it. I may try a silicone based grease next if the lithium one doesn't hold out, but it has done very well so far. I hope you get yours creak free masterP.

  31. #31
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    It is at the moment.

    Quite honestly, a very stable platform, enjoyed National from the towers for the first time with it, with 160mm, confidence inspiring.

  32. #32
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    GT Creeking noises

    I have a 08 gt sanction 2.0 and love it. I bought it as a leftover back in september and it's been great. I am starting to have some noise issues now and my local GT dealer is ran by a 71 year old amish guy who caters to local rail to trail people. He sells the bikes, but doesn't really know how to service them. The next closest dealer is over 2 hours away. So enough with the sob story. What i would like to ask you who have been so informative with the creeking noise issues is to please post pictures of what you lube on your bikes to get rid of the noises. I'm a noob to maintaining my bike but don't want to neglect it. Any info would be greatly appreciated. Thanks

  33. #33
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    GT offers pretty good tutorial how to dissasemble and assemble the bike.

    http://www.gtbicycles.com/GT/tech/di...sassembly.html

    http://www.gtbicycles.com/GT/tech/As.../Assembly.html

    You should use a bikestand and take a lot of grease.

    Good Luck!

  34. #34
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    Wow, i asked for silver and you gave me gold!!! SOOO much better than pictures and exactly what i needed! Thanks you SO much alf2

  35. #35
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    Hey guys, I've made some changes I thought I'd throw up here for reference.

    I've gone to a more aggressive setup to give a bit more bounce for preloading and jumping. I really like it. Still supple enough for the rock gardens too.

    Fork
    Fast compression 1-click out from soft
    Slow Compression 10 clicks from soft- Trying avoid brake jack here
    Rebound compression- 2 clicks from fast- faster spring return
    PSI- 95PSI

    Rear Shock- still running around 150 on the main and maxing out the platform at 200PSI. This makes it pedal really well under platform settings.

    I've also switched to a SRAM 991 11-34T with a 990 Cross step chain from the XT setup. It is buttery smooth right out of the box.

    Last, I threw on a Kenda Small block eight 2.35 for some better pedaling and it's like having an extra gear. Braking traction suffers a little bit but it's worth it.

    Peace out!

  36. #36
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    THis is good but only shows the main suspension disassembly. It doesn't show dropout disassembly but if you can get this the dropouts are easy. But B18 is right, this is good stuff.

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    Had a Force 2.0 for 2 weeks and the creaking is unbelievable !! can't believe I'm gonna have to strip it down already and lube like crazy !!

    Still its an awesome bike and probably worth the work

  39. #39
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    My Marathon 3.0 started creaking loudly under forceful pedaling after just a few months of riding. I took it back to Performance, TWICE, once to put anti-seize on the pivots, and a second time to replace the bottom bracket. Neither had much of an effect, and each time I had to leave the bike there for a week. Pretty frustrating.

    I finally decided to open up the pivots and look at them myself tonight. Thanks alf2 for the links to the disassembly video. I started with the lower pivot. When I got to the bearings, I noticed that the anti-seize had dried up into a gritty, clumpy paste. I wiped it all out and liberally greased all parts with some blue grease, then reassembled everything. When I jumped on the pedals - no creaking! Hopefully it will stay quiet.

  40. #40
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    Thanks for posting this. I'm pretty sure my local shop did this the first time I brought my in for the noise. They do a lot of volume so they were pretty much ready for it! When I heard it again, it was the dropouts. Ever since, no issues. I'm still loving this thing and I'm coming up on a year since I bought it and 700mi.

    Quote Originally Posted by catragnotti

  41. #41
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    98% sure it is your drop-outs!

    remove the drop-outs, grease the bolts and the frame where the Drop-outs interfacewith the frame and you should be good... super easy and a quick fix to an annoying creak. I rebuilt my pivots 3 times before I realized it was the drop-outs.

    simple and easy but annoying to detect


    Quote Originally Posted by JONAC
    Had a Force 2.0 for 2 weeks and the creaking is unbelievable !! can't believe I'm gonna have to strip it down already and lube like crazy !!

    Still its an awesome bike and probably worth the work

  42. #42
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    My pivots and drop outs haven't made a peep since I lubed them last, but now my Seatpost is creaking a little. I guess dirt got in there and now it's creaking. I usually clean the seatpost and then roll up a skinny rag and shove it down the seat tube. I also put an extremely light coat of lube on the seat post. I do mean EXTREMELY LIGHT COAT of lube. That takes it away. I don't use any anti-seize since like desolder said, it dries up and goes to clumpy crap. Mine's worked out very well so far. Only lubed the dropouts once at the beginning of purchase and the pivots once as well a month ago. In June I'll have a year with my Force 1. That's easy maintenance for me.
    Still loving my GT's!! find me on the "GT Bike Group" page on FB. I hardly ever hang out in here anymore.

  43. #43
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    Quote Originally Posted by farmerjohn
    98% sure it is your drop-outs!

    remove the drop-outs, grease the bolts and the frame where the Drop-outs interfacewith the frame and you should be good... super easy and a quick fix to an annoying creak. I rebuilt my pivots 3 times before I realized it was the drop-outs.

    simple and easy but annoying to detect
    Thanks for the heads up John,

    Been busy at work so not had time to strip it down yet, will try the drop-outs first !


  44. #44
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    Force 2.0 2008 weight saving

    Hi all,

    I'm currently looking at ways to slightly reduce the weight on my Force 2.0 (not that it is overly heavy anyhow!)

    Here are a few of the known weights that I should be able to sort out pretty cheaply:

    Bars - Ritchey Pro Rizer Alloy 31.8 clamp, low rise = 315g !!! these are heavy !
    Probably looking at the Easton monkeylite XC at 155g

    Seat -WTB Rocket V Comp = 275g
    Plenty to choose from but not made up my mind yet.

    Ritchey Comp Seat Post = 250g
    Also Plenty of options to go at.

    Anyone weighed the stem ? Ritchey 31.8 clamp, 3-D forged ? Can't find any info on this and not had it off yet to weigh it myself.
    Probably go for the Thomson elite x4 at 145 – 185 grams(approx) dependent on length.Friends really rate this stem

    Can't afford to replace the wheels yet but I should imagine there is some to shave off there.
    If anyone wants to add to my list please do, and any recomendations would be appreciated.

    P.s
    I am mainly into XC but also like a little downhill action with a few small jumps and drop offs. Don't want to trade weight for strength too much in the important areas

    once again any advice welcome.

  45. #45
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    Hey Jonac,

    Funnily enough i've been thinkin the same for my '09 Force 2.0!!! Both have mostly the same parts except i have a Rock Shox Revalation and SRAM X9. Same bars, stem, post, pretty much everything else!

    Yeah the bar will be the first thing for me too, and i also was looking at the Monkey light XC.

    The stem's from memory are around 205g but don't hold me to that! So a Thompson will be great. Personally i was thinking of the Easton EA70 or Truvativ Team both come in around the 145 mark.

    Seat and post was easy for me. I've run SDG seats for ages and the Belair is all go. The I-Beam carbon post and Belair SL will come in at 385g, a good saving from the stock 525g set up!

    The wheels will be fairly easy for me. The stock WTB rims are actually really really good. Strength to weight they are one of the better ones out there so i'll be keeping mine. I'm gonna pull the Chris King ISO's of my freeride bike and lace them up with DT revolution spokes and pro loc nipples. The stock wheels weigh in around 2,105g, my setup should drop that to 1,680.

    What was the stock weight on your bike?

    Mine was 14.35kgs just 700grams heavier than the cross country race bike i sold to get this one!!! So after these mods it'll be even lighter. Should be 785g lighter than stock. Then swaping out the Nevegals for Crossmarks with Stan's to loose another 100odd grams. Then the brakes, then the cranks,...... then the divorce!!!!!
    Last edited by Eatyapeas; 05-12-2009 at 06:13 PM.
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    How tight should I make the pivots? I tightened them pretty good but then the GT video worried me when it said "do not overtighten". They did not give a torque however.
    2008 GT Force 3.0
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    Yeah i noticed that too! The way i've always done it is just till they have no play between the swingarm and mainframe (or between the swingarm and Bottom Bracket link) then just a touch tighter to make sure. THEN i make sure i do the lock bolts up real tight with loctite. Haven't had one come back yet.
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    Quote Originally Posted by Eatyapeas
    Hey Jonac,

    Funnily enough i've been thinkin the same for my '09 Force 2.0!!! Both have mostly the same parts except i have a Rock Shox Revalation and SRAM X9. Same bars, stem, post, pretty much everything else!

    Yeah the bar will be the first thing for me too, and i also was looking at the Monkey light XC.

    The stem's from memory are around 205g but don't hold me to that! So a Thompson will be great. Personally i was thinking of the Easton EA70 or Truvativ Team both come in around the 145 mark.

    Seat and post was easy for me. I've run SDG seats for ages and the Belair is all go. The I-Beam carbon post and Belair SL will come in at 385g, a good saving from the stock 525g set up!

    The wheels will be fairly easy for me. The stock WTB rims are actually really really good. Strength to weight they are one of the better ones out there so i'll be keeping mine. I'm gonna pull the Chris King ISO's of my freeride bike and lace them up with DT revolution spokes and pro loc nipples. The stock wheels weigh in around 2,105g, my setup should drop that to 1,680.

    What was the stock weight on your bike?

    Mine was 14.35kgs just 700grams heavier than the cross country race bike i sold to get this one!!! So after these mods it'll be even lighter. Should be 785g lighter than stock. Then swaping out the Nevegals for Crossmarks with Stan's to loose another 100odd grams. Then the brakes, then the cranks,...... then the divorce!!!!!
    Hi EatYa

    Thanks for the reply. Not sure on the stock weight of mine personally but heard the 31lb figure mentioned once or twice, not that bad for an all round bike to be honest.
    I am also considering the Easton EA70 which also has a great rep.
    I'm def going to take a look at your seat and post set up because that is a great saving

    I know what you mean on the divorce side of things ! I have recently moved from spending far too much on my motorbikes to spending on this !! boys n their toys The wife thinks i'm mad but the hobbies keep us out of trouble.... sort of

    Would love to see some pics if you get the chance and i'll do the same as soon as the funds are in place for my mods

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    Quote Originally Posted by Halfrican
    How tight should I make the pivots? I tightened them pretty good but then the GT video worried me when it said "do not overtighten". They did not give a torque however.
    Think of it like a headset (which it basically is) so you want it to snug it up finger tight with a BB tool, then tighten the locking bolt (which will also tighten it up some in doing it up).

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    Force Carbon flight

    blasting on my Force Carbon
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    Nice pics Farmer John

  52. #52
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    So I'm using Finishline's Teflon bearing grease, you know the stuff that comes in the tube for the grease gun, is this comprable to the previous gentlemens white lithium grease?
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    One thing I liked about the lithium grease is that is very stable at high temperatures, and it is waterproof (Not spray hose proof though). I don't know much about the teflon. Hey, if it works use it. I think we gotta go with trial and error when it comes to finding out what works. I say try it and check. Teflon should be good.
    Still loving my GT's!! find me on the "GT Bike Group" page on FB. I hardly ever hang out in here anymore.

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    this bikes 33lbs?????

  55. #55
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    I recently purchased an 09 Force 3.0 at Performance. I had them weigh it stock and it came in at 33 something pounds.

    Then I put on X9 shifters and rear derailleur, FOX Float RP2 and Wellgo MG-1s.

    Then bike weighed 32.5 pounds after the components were swapped.

  56. #56
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    Quote Originally Posted by Halfrican
    How tight should I make the pivots? I tightened them pretty good but then the GT video worried me when it said "do not overtighten". They did not give a torque however.
    Where as I haven't actually ridden (or built for that matter) my Sanction yet, I have re-lubed the dropouts and the pivots, I too watched the video and saw that the amount (or at least what it looked like) of "tension" they put on the pivots to tighten them looked extreme as it only takes "finger tightening" to remove any "play" so I being the anal retentive A$$ that I am bought a touque wrench and decided to play around with the "play" if you will. I came to a good compromise between the finger tightening and the hulk force used in GT's Assembly video, that torque rating I found was 40 lbs/in which if your looking at the 360 deg rotational difference between finger tight (or start point) to the 40lb mark was accumulated to about a 20 to 30 degree turn or about a half inch more from finger tight. My reasoning is that finger tight, although enough in the stand, might not be adequate enought to handle the rigors of riding. I hope this helps.. or someone tells me I'm seriously wrong before I go out and destroy my bearings first ride. And keep an eye out for photos, ride reports, weights, and professional grade cinematics, on the "All Mountain" forums.
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    I recently picked up an 09 force 3.0. It took 1 ride for the creaking to start. Taking it in to performance tomorrow to have it looked at. I am also having a problem with the bike ghost shifting or not shifting on the middle chain ring and in the middle of the cassette range. Hopefully performance can fix these issues.

    Either way the bike seems ok. Def not great but better than most other options in it's price range.

    One more question... looking at getting a fox float 32 rlc second hand. Steer tube length on that fork is 7.75. This means I won't be able to run the 3 15mm spacers that the bike ships with. Do any of you see that as a problem? I am a little concerned about loading the front of this bike up as from what i read it's know for not so front end loading friendly geometry.

    Any thoughts?

  58. #58
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    Don't sweat too much about the creaking or the shifting issues. Performance are supposed to be really good at customer service and both these issues are pretty easy to fix.

    The Fox fork should be fine. Do you know what travel it is? If it's the 120 your geometry will feel a bit differant. You might like it tho! 130 would be the lowest i'd personally go, but you could still get away with 120.

    As for your spacers, you only need to worry about that if you want/need to run the spacers. If you don't want/need to run 'em there is no issue at all. When i get a new bike i spend the first few weeks getting a feel for it and playing around with settings to find my prefferance. Personally i'm running 2 spacers under a shorter than stock 90mm Thomson stem. But thats me.

    One thing i will say tho, if that fork is a 120mm, plus you go from 3 spacers to none, that thing is gonna feel alien for the first few rides. You might get used to it and love it but it'll feel very very differant from stock.

    Hope that helps.
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    Quote Originally Posted by Eatyapeas
    Don't sweat too much about the creaking or the shifting issues. Performance are supposed to be really good at customer service and both these issues are pretty easy to fix.

    The Fox fork should be fine. Do you know what travel it is? If it's the 120 your geometry will feel a bit differant. You might like it tho! 130 would be the lowest i'd personally go, but you could still get away with 120.

    As for your spacers, you only need to worry about that if you want/need to run the spacers. If you don't want/need to run 'em there is no issue at all. When i get a new bike i spend the first few weeks getting a feel for it and playing around with settings to find my prefferance. Personally i'm running 2 spacers under a shorter than stock 90mm Thomson stem. But thats me.

    One thing i will say tho, if that fork is a 120mm, plus you go from 3 spacers to none, that thing is gonna feel alien for the first few rides. You might get used to it and love it but it'll feel very very differant from stock.

    Hope that helps.
    Thanks for the reply. It's a 140mm float rlc. So the geometry will be the same as far as fork length etc. The only thing that is going to change is that the steer tube is already cut at 7.75 (197mm). Stack height on the force 3.0 is 200. 130 head tube+30 headset+40 stem. The bike ships with a stack height of 215 due to the three 5mm spacers.

    With this new fork I will not be able to run those three 5mm spacers as from what I can tell it's already cut to the exact stack height size without spacers.

    My fear is that dropping the bars 15mm or 9/16" is going to load the front of the bike up more. I just don't want to make this move and ruin the geometry of the bike. Also does any one know what the specs are on the stock stem that ships with the L 09 force 3.0. I could offset the change in spacers with a stem that has more rise but I can't figure out what's on the bike for oem.
    Last edited by minimusprime; 05-28-2009 at 06:11 AM.

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    Sorry mate, just not sure what you mean by load the front end.

    Removing spacers from under the head stem wont change the geometry of the bike. All it'll do is drop the handlebar height. You'd get the same effect by swaping from a riser bar to a flat bar. So you'd just be effectively moving your body weight slightly forward. Thats perfectly fine to do that and the bike itself won't handle any differant. Well, you'll be able to climb better which is a good thing.

    I'm not sure what the specs on your stem are, but the large Forces that come through our shop (mostly 1.0's and Carbon's) have all had 5o rise and 95mm length. And your spot on, getting a stem with a steeper rise, and/or a handlebar with a taller rise will cancel out the loss of the spacers.

    Hopefully i didn't miss your point there!
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    I too am having creaking issues. I didn't start until I rode through a stream so it's my own fault. I watched the videos and it seems pretty straightforward except one thing. Can someone tell me what special tools are needed for this job?

  62. #62
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    My little help to this thread is go ahead and do your dropouts first then go ride around and see if that fixed it before tearing into all the pivots. I just did mine in about 5 mins and was convinced it was the i drive. But nope drop outs, its much smaller of a project to start with. hope this helps.

  63. #63
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    Quote Originally Posted by floxy
    I too am having creaking issues. I didn't start until I rode through a stream so it's my own fault. I watched the videos and it seems pretty straightforward except one thing. Can someone tell me what special tools are needed for this job?
    Park Tool BBT-22 is the only special tool you will need. The rest are standard.
    2008 GT Force 3.0
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    Broken GT Force 3.0 Derailleur Hanger

    Has anyone broken theirs yet? If so did you order a new one from a GT dealer or on your own through the net? How much do they cost?

  65. #65
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    my 09 force is currently at 30.9lbs on the bathroom scale - see ref here:
    New 09 Force - going large

    strongly considering the new 2010 revelation at 150mm - should be able to drop over a 1/2lb more....


    unfortunately, mine has started creaking as well...is there any consensus on the best grease to use?

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    There's a post somewhere in here. The guy ordered the rear derraileur from GT and got them at a pretty good price. I'm pretty sure it's in this thread but I could be wrong, it may be in the GT forum somewhere. When it comes to the grease, I'm still using the white lithium waterproof grease and still working fine. I'm guessing anything that is waterproof and temperature stable (and not too runny) should be good.
    Still loving my GT's!! find me on the "GT Bike Group" page on FB. I hardly ever hang out in here anymore.

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    I am about to clean and re-lube my main pivots on my Force 1.0. Do you fellow Force owners recommend using the Finish Line anti-seize/assembly lube that GT uses, or would you use a heavy duty synthetic assembly lube like the on made by Amsoil? Any other options would be appreciated! Thanks!

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    help with new GT Sanction

    I created a new thread also but wanted to catch all the people subscribed to this one...

    I just purchased a sanction 2 complete. It is stock and I have one issue with the seatpost adjustment. I bought a medium and running stock seatpost I cannot get it to drop all the way. There was a stop that kept it from going all the way down. Taking out the seatpost and looking down with a light, there appears to be some sort of shim at the bottom of the seat tube. It is super thin, but enought to stop the seat from going the last 5 or so inches down to the bottom of the seat tube. It doesn't make sense to me as it is an unbending, uninterupted seat tube and I can see no reason for there to be a mechanical stop. No tubes join at that area and no welds other than a little connection going forward from the bottom of the seat tube. To my eye, it does not look like an area needing reinforcement.

    I called GT and they couldn't really tell me what it was and wondered if other Sanction owners have this same thing going or if anybody could provide more info.

    I am providing linkds to a couple of photobucket pics of the area. I could not save an upload them as photobucket is blocked to me, just had google image search to the thumbnails...

    http://media.photobucket.com/image/g...l/DSCF3515.jpg
    and
    http://media.photobucket.com/image/g...l/DSCF3514.jpg

    thanks

  69. #69
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    cut 2 inches off your seat post
    2008 GT Force 3.0
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  70. #70
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    that is an obvious solution. Problem is that I am raising to the maximum height for climbing and cutting too much off the seatpost is going to compromise its strength. There is a reason there is a maximum height line on them and If I cut two inches, technically that means I have to subtract two inches from how high I can raise it.
    Telescoping type seatpost is the other obvious answer but I would like to know the purpose of that shim-like component and if all sanction frames come that way.

  71. #71
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    I battled creaking and squeaking on this bike from the first day i got it. I had to take it to two different performance bike shops until I found one that would service the bike correctly. The took the entire bike apart and lubed all the pivot's and drop outs. Since then I've put prob 20 miles or so on the bike and it hasn't made noise.

    Now onto the upgrading. I'm ditching the stock pedals as the fact that there are clips on only one side is killing me. I'm ordering some shimano XT pedals today. I've also got a full set of X.9 shifters and derailleur's i'm contemplating putting on. After initial stretch and adjustment the deore stuff isn't bad... but I'm thinking the X.9's would give the bike confidence inspired shifting. I also think some new grips are in order. Something with a bit more meat on them.

    Overall I'm content with regards to the force 3.0. It could definitely be better, but it could most assuredly be worse. For the price I paid (1250 out the door) there isn't that much out there that could do what this is doing. It's taking a beating and it doesn't seem to be too phased. The stock components are performing surprisingly well. Heck even that cheapie mag fork seems to be up to the task.... for now at least.

  72. #72
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    The dropout hex allen bolts need to be watched carefully. I lost one set without knowing it. Glad i'm still alive.

    Better use locktite after greasing the dropouts.

  73. #73
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    So the rear dropouts of the Sanction and Force are separate from the frame and can be removed. So would i be correct in saying that you use the quick release drop outs from the force, on the sanction frame, or vice versa? If so, where can you get these dropouts?

  74. #74
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    Quote Originally Posted by peternguyen
    So the rear dropouts of the Sanction and Force are separate from the frame and can be removed. So would i be correct in saying that you use the quick release drop outs from the force, on the sanction frame, or vice versa? If so, where can you get these dropouts?
    Thats absolutely correct!

    The two are interchangable making the Maxel rear end a very nice upgrade to the Force and the standard rear end handy for Sanction owners using a nice QR wheelset.

    Both sets of dropouts should be available from GT Directly or your local dealer, except here in Australia but i've spoken to a few guys from Monza who said they'd look into it so maybe sometime soon we'll have 'em too?
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  75. #75
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    Quote Originally Posted by Eatyapeas
    Thats absolutely correct!

    The two are interchangable making the Maxel rear end a very nice upgrade to the Force and the standard rear end handy for Sanction owners using a nice QR wheelset.

    Both sets of dropouts should be available from GT Directly or your local dealer, except here in Australia but i've spoken to a few guys from Monza who said they'd look into it so maybe sometime soon we'll have 'em too?
    Sweet, thanks! Yeah, i hope they are (or will be) available in Australia.

  76. #76
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    I got a good response from one of my engineer friends on a grease recommendation for the pivots:

    Here is my opinion: Anti-Seize is most beneficial when you have two dissimilar metals mated in a static configuration (ex. Al seatpost in a Ti frame). Good quality A-S is thick, pasty and gritty. You know why? It is comprised of ~40% metal flakes (typically Zinc) that are then mixed with grease! The metal in the A-S serves as a sacrificial component during galvanic corrosion.

    For suspension pivots, I suspect a good quality waterproof grease would be ideal (I’ve heard some guys use wheel bearing grease intended for boat trailers). And, since you will probably be servicing the bearings every year or so, long-term galling/seizing shouldn’t be an issue.


    Makes sense...looks like I'll be using some type of waterproof grease on mine.

  77. #77
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    and to make matters more complicated, there are 2 different size dropouts from GT.

  78. #78
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    whats the confusion with the drop-outs?

    all forces and sanctions use the same drop-out with the exception of the 12 threaded maxle option... should not be consider confusing, its a BENEFIT!

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    BTW, if you pull off the dropouts to grease them, don't ride again without loctite on the bolts Ask me how I know.

    GT came through on these bolts, after the local dealers gave me a hard time.

  80. #80
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    Quote Originally Posted by masterp2
    BTW, if you pull off the dropouts to grease them, don't ride again without loctite on the bolts Ask me how I know.
    Haha, how do you know?

  81. #81
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    Do you reckon that having detachable dropouts can be a compromise in stiffness or frame structure in any way?

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    Is there a special tool you use to hold the backnut while tightening the hangar bolts?

  83. #83
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    It is the same tool you use on chainring bolts to hold the back sides. Kittle guy with prongs that fit the slots. Any bike shop will have them but not always for sale. They are a couple bucks online

  84. #84
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    Quote Originally Posted by aenema
    It is the same tool you use on chainring bolts to hold the back sides. Kittle guy with prongs that fit the slots. Any bike shop will have them but not always for sale. They are a couple bucks online
    Peg spanner?

  85. #85
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    that is it, yes.

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    odered one, thanks guys

  87. #87
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    anyone have torque specs on the dropout bolts?

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    Don't strip them, anything else is a go!
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  89. #89
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    Can someone tell me.. on the 2008 Sanction 1.0, are the rotors 6 bolt or center lock for the XT brakes?

  90. #90
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    Quote Originally Posted by superbird
    anyone have torque specs on the dropout bolts?
    75 in/lb
    "This sticker is dangerous and inconvienent, but I do love Fig Newtons"

  91. #91
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    Quote Originally Posted by masterp2
    and to make matters more complicated, there are 2 different size dropouts from GT.
    Are you talking about the dropouts for the Force/Sanction?

  92. #92
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    http://cgi.ebay.com/2009-GT-SANCTION...11213005r29313

    wow, beefy - i remember someone asking about a coil shock on these. here you go.

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    Hey guys, I'm looking at getting a Blackspire Stinger for my 08 Sanction 1.0, I have no idea what mount I need though. I'm on CRC and I have
    BB Mount
    BMX Mount
    ISCG 05 Mount
    ISCG Mount

    Does anyone know what is on the Sanction?

    Thanks heaps in advance

  94. #94
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    Regarding the 2008 sanction 1.0, how many people have experienced problems with the lyrik? Also, the specs say it has 160-180mm travel. I thought the lyrik only has 160mm of travel?

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    I've been riding a 2009 GT Carbon Force Pro for almost a year and it's been incredible. Yes, I had to relube the pivots and dropouts with anti-seize, but it's been quiet as a mouse ever since. I have a 2010 Fox 36 VAN on the front, a 2010 Fox RP23 with the new boost valve on the back, and 8" Juicy 7's to slow things down. The bike rips in all terrain and weighs just over 30 lbs.
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  96. #96
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    No ISCG tabs on these bikes - so go with the BB mount on the stinger.

    Lyrik is 160mm - must be a typo. 2010 models are 170mm.

    36 Vanilla looks nice on that carbon frame! Any idea how much it affects the head angle? 1degree to 68 perhaps?

    BTW - crazy seat angle, but if it works for you....

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    Seat angle is fine at 72.6 degrees. Climbs great and I'm usually standing with the seat slammed for steep downhills. Yes, the head angle gets raked to 68 degrees with a 6" fork, which is perfect IMO.
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  98. #98
    mtbr member
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    OH, I see what you mean now. Seat angle, not seat tube angle. It's actually level when sitting in the sag.

  99. #99
    mtbr member
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    Sep 2006
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    240
    ah...i meant the downward angle of your saddle.

  100. #100
    Platforms For Life
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    Sep 2008
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    They should have to put a warning sticker on bontrager tires that they are for recreational xc only.
    2008 GT Force 3.0
    2009 Bianchi Pista fixie

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