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  1. #376
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    I measured the distance between holes on my 2012 force 2.0. They're 2.2 inches apart center to center. This corresponds with the iscg '05 standard.

    The 03 iscg holes are only 1.88 inches apart center to center. Couldn't tell you about the 2011 frame.

  2. #377
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    Quote Originally Posted by On3_kn0WN View Post
    I measured the distance between holes on my 2012 force 2.0. They're 2.2 inches apart center to center. This corresponds with the iscg '05 standard.

    The 03 iscg holes are only 1.88 inches apart center to center. Couldn't tell you about the 2011 frame.
    Finally, something conclusive and solid. HAHA. Thanks bro!

  3. #378
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    ... and if we just ...

    Quote Originally Posted by ehansen007 View Post
    Here's a quick run down of how you can fix or maintain the pivots on an I-Drive bike.
    Awesome work! And thanks for the run down, IŽll do that myself this very week!
    http://32spokesmtb.com - Promoting MTB & cycling from Mexico to the World!

  4. #379
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    ... and if we just ...

    Quote Originally Posted by ehansen007 View Post
    Here's a quick run down of how you can fix or maintain the pivots on an I-Drive bike.
    Awesome work! And thanks for the run down, IŽll do that myself this very week!
    http://32spokesmtb.com - Promoting MTB & cycling from Mexico to the World!

  5. #380
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    Ehansen, thanks for the awesome tutorial on page 6. Now, to remove the pivots, do I really need TWO bbt-2 tools or can I get away w/ just using one?
    d butt u kicked today, could b d same butt you'll kiss tomorrow.....

  6. #381
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    You really need two to do it. If they are more than hand tight you won't get them apart or be able to tighten them correctly. The threaded rod is also essential or the will just keep slipping out of the pivots.
    2008 GT Force
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  7. #382
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    Weeeeeelllllll.....I just did it with one, twice, and you can do it. You just have to be VERY careful because it will slip out and strip the teeth. I was just being lazy and frustrated having just finished servicing them and dirt got in there immediately so I had to do it again.

  8. #383
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    I have a strong feeling it shouldn't be an issue, but is my moto grease good to use on my Force? Here is a link to the grease I use for my dirt bike Yamalube Race Grease | Dirt Bike | Rocky Mountain ATV/MC

  9. #384
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    Im using grease. i find it better than the stuff gt recommends. it seems to last longer and is easier to clean off when to redo it the following times.

    and i have only ever used one bb tool to work on the i drive. the povits don't need to be done up that hard.

  10. #385
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    can anyone tell us the size of orings used and where to keep the dirt from getting in?

    some pictures would be cool too!
    http://32spokesmtb.com - Promoting MTB & cycling from Mexico to the World!

  11. #386
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    My 2011 force 2.0 had o rings in it. Not sure if you can reference any manual for the sizes though.

  12. #387
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    Hey guys, I'm getting questions on the actual bottom bracket tool to use. It's the 20T shimano bottom bracket tool. Here's one example. Two can be used to prevent stripping as they are very shallow and one tool will jump out and try to strip. Up to you. Best of
    Luck.

    Universal Cycles -- Park Tool BBT-22 Bottom Bracket Tool

  13. #388
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    Good job!

    Quote Originally Posted by ehansen007 View Post
    Hey guys, I'm getting questions on the actual bottom bracket tool to use. It's the 20T shimano bottom bracket tool. Here's one example. Two can be used to prevent stripping as they are very shallow and one tool will jump out and try to strip. Up to you. Best of
    Luck.

    Universal Cycles -- Park Tool BBT-22 Bottom Bracket Tool
    Thanks for the confirmation, I just ordered a pair of them! and once more, thanks for the awesome guide!
    http://32spokesmtb.com - Promoting MTB & cycling from Mexico to the World!

  14. #389
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    The fact that the tool is named "BBT-22" is not helpful. I've counted the teeth 5 times and it only has 20. So glad to see people getting into servicing their own bikes. I enjoy the hell out of it.

  15. #390
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    2011 GT Force 3.0: Cable Routing and Drop-Out Maintenance

    I was getting some creaking after some back to back riding in dusty conditions, with creek crossings, and washes. The pivots were already fiddled with when they were loose and so I went ahead and tackled the dropouts.

    What I found is interesting, there is a hole in both mounts of the dropouts that, when grime gets in the seat stay, allow grime to work its way onto the 2 bolts that hold on to the dropout. I cleaned out the hole as best I could and forced grease in the hole as best I could in hopes that it can act as sort of a barrier to avoid continuous contamination of the mount.

    I am pointing to the crud filled hole in question:


    We will see how this holds up.

    Also, when I first got the bike I was aware of the cable rubbing issues but was so excited that I rode the bike anyway. After just one day of riding I have already rubbed off the clear coat on my seat tube. I then used some helicopter tape to protect the area, but dirt and grime always found itself through the tape. I then went to modify the routing to mimic those of the photos of the GT Distortion using zip-ties as pictured.

    Worked but maintenance was sure problematic:


    My Joplin4 is not remote, and I have done away with the front derailleur for a 1x9 setup (with Sunline V1 bash ISCG-05) so my cable guides on the top tube were vacant. I have always fount the original to be very pleasant to look at but was a chore to perform maintenance on due to the fact that I had to remove the shock in order to get to the cables. Plus those neat little anodized cable guides were always twisting, and attempts to tighten the bolt just results in the marring of the hex holes.

    New routing attempt:


    There is helicopter tape applied on the seat tube, but at the moment there is no contact. I have also placed a single zip-tie keep both cables from straying to far into my pedal zone.

    I hope it works out. I will riding later this afternoon to see if anything needs tweaking.

    Bryan
    Just keep pedaling, don't stop pedaling.

  16. #391
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    nice catch on the hole in the drop outs, gonna have to check mine when i get home...

  17. #392
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    I use a white adhesive back vinyl for printing on to protect the paint... this was a quick job, but it covers the area and prevents cable housings from rubbing on the frame.... and yep, its dirty right now!
    2012-06-28 18.36.16

  18. #393
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    Nice post bryan_d . I like the routing in the second pic, I think I might try that. I've played with them every which way and not been happy 100% with any of them. I cant do the route you show in the last post, even though I have a 1x9, I the older Force doesn't have any cable retention spots on the non drive side of the top tube. I don't have those aluminum clamps on the down tube though, I have the type like the top tube. Did you have any other issues with the second pic routing besides the clamps? Do the tie wraps stay in place? thanks
    2008 GT Force
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  19. #394
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    I'm VERY close to picking up the Sanction 1.0 on nashbar. It's yellow/green, which I believe is a 2011.

    Does anyone know if this frame would fit a 650b wheel set?

    were there any major enhancements to the 2011 vs the 2010...or the 2012 vs. the 2011? I'm trying to figure out if the 2011 nashbar deal is worth snapping up, or if I should pay more for a 2012...OR maybe even look elsewhere. Seems like a fantastic bike but the creaking and cable routing sounds sub-par. i've got a very high comfort level working on bikes but I don't like to buy problems if I can avoid it.
    "The bitterness of poor quality remains long after the sweetness of a low price is forgotten." - Benjamin Franklin

  20. #395
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    I was actually the person that picked up the one size large they had off nashbar. Got the bike last week and have about 4 rides on it so far. I am coming from a DH bike so anything seems snappy, light, and quick to me.

    But I really feel like this bike climbs very well for the amount of travel it has, haven't felt the need to even use the lockout up front or pro-pedal in back. Only three things I changed was the brakes ( switched to new Shimano SLX brakes since they are absolute beasts) and got rid of the dropper post on ebay, since i feel like I would rarely use it, lastly I put my DMR Vault pedals on the bike since I will be using it on lift access days too (the pedals that it came with were surprisingly decent with big pins for grip)

    I absolutely love this bike so far and can't wait to keep hammering down on it, so smooth and not one creek or moan yet! Let me know if you have any more questions

  21. #396
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    Quote Originally Posted by natzx7 View Post
    Nice post bryan_d . I like the routing in the second pic, I think I might try that. I've played with them every which way and not been happy 100% with any of them. I cant do the route you show in the last post, even though I have a 1x9, I the older Force doesn't have any cable retention spots on the non drive side of the top tube. I don't have those aluminum clamps on the down tube though, I have the type like the top tube. Did you have any other issues with the second pic routing besides the clamps? Do the tie wraps stay in place? thanks
    Thanks. The second option works great, and I think either way will work. I just finished riding some trails today near a popular university located in Santa Cruz, CA and everything was dandy both on my brothers and my Force with both options.

    Quote Originally Posted by RTM View Post
    I'm VERY close to picking up the Sanction 1.0 on nashbar. It's yellow/green, which I believe is a 2011.

    Does anyone know if this frame would fit a 650b wheel set?

    were there any major enhancements to the 2011 vs the 2010...or the 2012 vs. the 2011? I'm trying to figure out if the 2011 nashbar deal is worth snapping up, or if I should pay more for a 2012...OR maybe even look elsewhere. Seems like a fantastic bike but the creaking and cable routing sounds sub-par. i've got a very high comfort level working on bikes but I don't like to buy problems if I can avoid it.
    From what I gather the Force and the Sanction share the same rear triangle, and judging from that 650B would not work as the rear triangle barely has room for 2.5" Nevegals. Also the bottom bracket is high as it is and adding anymore height would really funk out the handling in my opinion.

    Bryan
    Just keep pedaling, don't stop pedaling.

  22. #397
    RTM
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    Quote Originally Posted by bkboom123 View Post
    I was actually the person that picked up the one size large they had off nashbar. Got the bike last week and have about 4 rides on it so far. I am coming from a DH bike so anything seems snappy, light, and quick to me.

    But I really feel like this bike climbs very well for the amount of travel it has, haven't felt the need to even use the lockout up front or pro-pedal in back. Only three things I changed was the brakes ( switched to new Shimano SLX brakes since they are absolute beasts) and got rid of the dropper post on ebay, since i feel like I would rarely use it, lastly I put my DMR Vault pedals on the bike since I will be using it on lift access days too (the pedals that it came with were surprisingly decent with big pins for grip)

    I absolutely love this bike so far and can't wait to keep hammering down on it, so smooth and not one creek or moan yet! Let me know if you have any more questions
    great to hear from you. Thanks for the reply! Our backgrounds and riding styles sound similar so your feedback really hit the mark.

    How tall are you? I'm 5'10" and was thinking I'd take the medium since they "run big" (?)
    "The bitterness of poor quality remains long after the sweetness of a low price is forgotten." - Benjamin Franklin

  23. #398
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    Quote Originally Posted by On3_kn0WN View Post
    I use a white adhesive back vinyl for printing on to protect the paint... this was a quick job, but it covers the area and prevents cable housings from rubbing on the frame.... and yep, its dirty right now!
    My brother has been using clear vinyl in his HD bikes and it does the job, protecting the from rubs, tire thrown nicks, and crash scratches
    http://32spokesmtb.com - Promoting MTB & cycling from Mexico to the World!

  24. #399
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    Quote Originally Posted by RTM View Post
    great to hear from you. Thanks for the reply! Our backgrounds and riding styles sound similar so your feedback really hit the mark.

    How tall are you? I'm 5'10" and was thinking I'd take the medium since they "run big" (?)

    Im 6' and Im on a med sanction frame. they a bit longer in the top tube compared to the same sized force

  25. #400
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    I went large on my 2012 force and I'm 6'2".

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