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Thread: GT Grade

  1. #601
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    Had to re-tape my grails yesterday. Pulled the tires off to remove a giant Stan's booger in each one, and the beads ripped up the edges of my tape pretty bad. What a freakin PITA. That center channel makes it real hard to get the tape in there while trying to stretch it. These rims were a nice intro to the wonders of road tubeless, but I'm definitely not going to miss them when they're gone.

  2. #602
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    The moment when you just can't remember why you took the fenders off...
    GT Grade-p4pb14571028.jpg
    At least it was fun.

  3. #603
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    Drove up to the North Cascades Highway on Friday. 41 miles with about 3,800 feet of vert. All paved.









    This was the turn-around point. This is why they close the road.



    Scenery.





    And then the way out.




  4. #604
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    Looks like an amazing ride! Thanks for sharing the pics!

  5. #605
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    Quote Originally Posted by 92gli View Post
    Had to re-tape my grails yesterday. Pulled the tires off to remove a giant Stan's booger in each one, and the beads ripped up the edges of my tape pretty bad. What a freakin PITA. That center channel makes it real hard to get the tape in there while trying to stretch it. These rims were a nice intro to the wonders of road tubeless, but I'm definitely not going to miss them when they're gone.
    The same thing happened to me last week. In between trying to get the Kenda Happy Medium SCT's to seat (horrible experiencie, btw) and my undiscriminated usage of my plastic levers I ended up busting my rim tape. I also found out that using high pressure (> 45 psi's) on these builds is not recommended.

    I'll retape them again next week and will be extra careful with the pressure and levers.

    ps. the new Maxxis Terrane 33mm might be a better alternative to the hard-to-seat Kenda Happy Medium's.

  6. #606
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    Quote Originally Posted by dekaru View Post
    The same thing happened to me last week. In between trying to get the Kenda Happy Medium SCT's to seat (horrible experiencie, btw) and my undiscriminated usage of my plastic levers I ended up busting my rim tape. I also found out that using high pressure (> 45 psi's) on these builds is not recommended.

    I'll retape them again next week and will be extra careful with the pressure and levers.

    ps. the new Maxxis Terrane 33mm might be a better alternative to the hard-to-seat Kenda Happy Medium's.
    I can't get the rear wheel to seal. I thought it was good but there's sealant coming through a few spoke holes. I must have screwed the tape up again. I think I'm going to solve the annoyance the best way possible- throw money at it. Mavic ksyrium wheels are calling me. No holes to tape.

  7. #607
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    Quote Originally Posted by 92gli View Post
    I can't get the rear wheel to seal. I thought it was good but there's sealant coming through a few spoke holes. I must have screwed the tape up again. I think I'm going to solve the annoyance the best way possible- throw money at it. Mavic ksyrium wheels are calling me. No holes to tape.
    Give the Hunt wheels a try, excelent value (and looks!) for the money

    https://www.huntbikewheels.com

  8. #608
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    Last week I finally decided to go road tubeless with my grail rims, using stan's tape and schwalbe pro one tires. Had the exact same problem you described. Getting the wheel on caused the tape to get messed up and leak through spoke holes.

    After 2 attempts, i grabbed some gorilla tape, cut it to 21mm and slapped it on (1 layer). The tape went on perfectly smooth on the rim and the schwalbe's seated up on my first attempt after that. Ditch the stan's if that's what you're using.

  9. #609
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    Quote Originally Posted by dekaru View Post
    Give the Hunt wheels a try, excelent value (and looks!) for the money

    https://www.huntbikewheels.com
    I'd consider waiting for their wheels if I was going to get carbon, but wouldn't wait on them for alloy. There's nothing that special about them.

    Quote Originally Posted by fumanju View Post
    Last week I finally decided to go road tubeless with my grail rims, using stan's tape and schwalbe pro one tires. Had the exact same problem you described. Getting the wheel on caused the tape to get messed up and leak through spoke holes.

    After 2 attempts, i grabbed some gorilla tape, cut it to 21mm and slapped it on (1 layer). The tape went on perfectly smooth on the rim and the schwalbe's seated up on my first attempt after that. Ditch the stan's if that's what you're using.
    I got a roll of wider tape and it seems to be working better. It's 25mm. Goes up the bead shelf a little bit.

    Even though I fixed the issue, I still made an impulse purchase. DT spline R32 wheels are on the way from Germany. Price was too good to resist. They need tape too, but I went for the looks and like how the hubs convert to every axle standard out there.

  10. #610
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    Well I went out for a road ride today and looking at mountain bike trails I decided to try a little off road, now I had the tires pumped up to 100psi with the stock mostly slick tires and actually did a lot better than I thought it would, Now the one thing I do hate about road type bikes is drop bars...what would it take for me to go to a flat bar? Im thinking probably everything (brakes/levers/shifter...etc)
    2018 Spot Mayhem
    2016 Salsa Bucksaw
    2016 GT Grade Carbon

  11. #611
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    Quote Originally Posted by sml-2727 View Post
    Well I went out for a road ride today and looking at mountain bike trails I decided to try a little off road, now I had the tires pumped up to 100psi with the stock mostly slick tires and actually did a lot better than I thought it would, Now the one thing I do hate about road type bikes is drop bars...what would it take for me to go to a flat bar? Im thinking probably everything (brakes/levers/shifter...etc)
    And a longer stem, because you won't have the length the bars add.

  12. #612
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    Got rid of that crap formula front axle and switched to a maxle stealth. So much nicer looking and it doesn't sound like a zipper when you insert it. Have to carry a 6mm in the saddle bag now though. Have a DT RWS rear skewer but would like to find something less bulky for that too. With tubeless, I rarely have to remove the wheels these days...

  13. #613
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    The Maxle fits that is pretty cool to know. That much look so much nicer too.

  14. #614
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    Yep. They have a maxle stealth road version that matches length and threads perfectly.GT Grade-img_20170411_171528.jpg

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    .

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  16. #616
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    In case someone was wondering about framebags. Here is a Blackburn Outpost (Medium) in a 2016 55cm frame. That's is a spare toob between the seattube and the framebag. Good bang for the buck.

    GT Grade-p5pb14619707.jpg

  17. #617
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    Well, I did a complete dipshit thing last night. Bunny hopping a railroad tie in small chain ring/small cog on a dirt road the chain popped off and wedged between the chainring and the chainstay. It chewed up the chainstay a bit - not terrible, but took a little chunk out. Anyone else on a carbon Grade have a similar occurrence? It looks like the top layer of carbon is pretty much decorative, and there doesn't seem to be damage below that.

  18. #618
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    Some Grades

  19. #619
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    Finally got my DT Spline R32 wheels from Germany. Damn these things are mean lookin. And so nice that they come with every hub adapter possible. Also recently got ergon saddles for all my bikes. Love them! Not much left of my original bike... just the cranks, FD, post, brakes and brifters.

    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails GT Grade-img_20170426_155024.jpg  

    Last edited by 92gli; 04-26-2017 at 05:14 PM.

  20. #620
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    Quote Originally Posted by 92gli View Post
    Finally got my DT Spline R32 wheels from Germany. Damn these things are mean lookin. And so nice that they come with every possible hub adapter possible. Also recently got ergon saddles for all my bikes. Love them! Not much left of my original bike... just the cranks, FD, post, brakes and brifters.

    super nice! what size is it?

  21. #621
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    Quote Originally Posted by dekaru View Post
    super nice! what size is it?
    53...

  22. #622
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    Quote Originally Posted by 92gli View Post
    53...
    If you ever decide to sell it or if you wish to change it for another one size larger let me know :P

  23. #623
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    My local performance store has the 2016 105 carbon on sale for $1800. The one that has the green stripes. They have several sizes, 53 and whatever xl is. This version isn't shown on their website anymore but the manager said tbey have a good amount still in their system. They're doing an extra 15% off this weekend too. You would be under 1600 with this deal 😱

  24. #624
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    Quote Originally Posted by 92gli View Post
    My local performance store has the 2016 105 carbon on sale for $1800. The one that has the green stripes. They have several sizes, 53 and whatever xl is. This version isn't shown on their website anymore but the manager said tbey have a good amount still in their system. They're doing an extra 15% off this weekend too. You would be under 1600 with this deal 😱
    wow, sounds great! i'll check it out, thanks! i did not particularly like the green version of the 105. I have the 55 black/white version but it's a bit too big for me. I like the bike so much I'm seriously considering buying the same model just to get the right size (bought it online) ... I'm 5'9 and had to swap for a 90mm stem and push the saddle almost all the way to the front. I am flexible but I don't enjoy a slammed body position.

    Thanks!

  25. #625
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    Finally I got my hands on the Easton EC70AX bar. One nice thing about the bar is the coarse surface for the stem attachment. I'm not an expert on carbon bars but haven't seen that on any other carbon bars, road or mtb. I still put some carbon paste during assembly, just in case.
    Weighed in at 220g vs 312g of the original Al bar.
    GT Grade-p5pb14720784.jpg

    I was waiting to get the same bar as the GT original but in carbon. Actually the Easton is a little bit narrower at the drop ends.
    GT Grade-p5pb14720712.jpg

    The bends are actually quite different. I like the Easton better, I have always had a slight feeling that my hands are slipping down on the GT bars. Also I was able to setup the brifters so that it's easier to reach the brakes.
    GT Grade-p5pb14720760.jpg

    Waiting for a test ride to be done.

  26. #626
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    Speaking of handlebars... removing the bar tape from the "GT Droptune RS Ultra Light" on my GT Grade Ultegra 2014, I found the designation "RA68A.2 440" etched into the bar end.

    This hints that the original bar would be a rebranded TranzX JD-RA68A.2 made in Taiwan. The TranzX PDF catalogs list the following specs:

    Material: Alloy #2014-T6 DB
    Center: 31.8mm/120mm
    Reach (C-C): 70mm
    Drop (C-C): 120mm (360/380/400mm)
    Drop (C-C): 130mm (420/440/460mm)
    Flare Angle: 16°

    There is another model called JD-RA68A which identical specs but using 6061 instead of the 2014 alloy - I assume this must be what GT chose to call the "Super Light" variant. My "Ultra Light" variant isn't very light either at almost exactly 300g.


  27. #627
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    Oh and Bianci rebrands the same bar here, too:

    https://www.bianchistore.de/en/bianc...ar-alloy-ra68a

    (interestingly, Drop & Reach listed by Bianci differ a little bit from the original TranzX specs and in fact come closer to what I measured on mine).

  28. #628
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    After a couple hundred kilometers with the Easton Bar I can say it's good. I was waiting for a bigger effect on reducing the road buzz but I'm fine with the result. My expectation were pretty high after changing my seatpost to a Ritchey WCS Carbon Link Flexlogic. Superb seatpost btw. As said the Easton hook shape fits me better. It's a nice upgrade.

  29. #629
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    Not a lot of chatter among the Grade owners. Hopefully everyone is out there racking up miles on their Grade. I was getting a little rear brake rub and needed to clean my drivetrain, so I stuck the bike in the stand and took care of those last night. While mucking with the rear brake, I noticed that the rubber boot on the front dérailleur cable has pretty much disintegrated and my shift cable isn't in the greatest shape. Has anyone replaced this boot? If so, what did you use? I'm thinking of trying a V-brake boot as I can't seem to find one meant for a shift cable. Suggestions?

  30. #630
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    I would try the v-brake boot.

    I had a bigger hole in my Hutchinson Sector 32 that Stans wouldn't fix. Tires have been ridden only for 2200km. I went the lazy route and slapped on some Casco Liquisole glue on it only from the outside while the tire was still on the rim. Put 5,5 bar in it and rode the first 50km with zero pressure loss. Normally I use about 4,5 bar on the rear tire. I'll use the same stuff to patch other cuts before they get any bigger or filled with sand.

  31. #631
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    Just to tell that Hutchinson Overide fit in tube 38 version. They measure 37mm on my Alloy. It is a tight fit though: https://www.strava.com/activities/11...R&v=1501264797
    Last edited by Geraldaut; 07-30-2017 at 05:02 AM. Reason: Typo

  32. #632
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    Hi all, wanted to contribute some pics to the thread as a thanks for helping me land on the Grade as my first road-ish-type bike.

    It took a few rides to get things dialed in and accustomed. Such as working on my new found fear of upping and downing curbs (lol). After a solid 3hr ride today I think I have things where I want them. And I think I'm addicted to this thing. Loving the combo of speed, distance, and off-roadiness.

    Onto pics. Let's give some love to the economical end of the spectrum.
    Here's my '17 Claris:





    I love how the frame looks. Triangle is small on this 53cm frame.






    So as of '17 the Grade no longer comes with a carbon fork on the Sora and Claris models. Here's what the new alloy fork looks like.


    As for future plans... I really really really miss having full hydro-brakes. It's the feel and modulation that I love, and this (well, all) bikes deserve to have that. Maybe a Tiagra-hydro groupset + post-mount calipers at some point? Or if Shimano brings Hydro down to Sora level I'm completely fine with that.

  33. #633
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    Looking at a deal on a 2016 Carbon Grade, $600 difference between 105 and Ultegra, thinking it is not worth it but looking for some input! Cash could be used to upgrade some other things like wheelset.

    Excited to get on this ride.

  34. #634
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    Quote Originally Posted by calibrit View Post
    Looking at a deal on a 2016 Carbon Grade, $600 difference between 105 and Ultegra, thinking it is not worth it but looking for some input! Cash could be used to upgrade some other things like wheelset.

    Excited to get on this ride.
    By all reports I’ve seen, it seems the 105 5800 series shifts every bit as good as the ultegra 6800 series, just with additional weight. I’ve got 6870 (di2) on my Grade, but if I was looking for mechanical right now, I’d probably be aiming at the 105 5800 series. Seems to hit that “best bang for the buck” sweetspot


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  35. #635
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    I went with 2015 Ultegra because of the hubs, more than anything. DT 240s are bulletproof and the Ultegra was just a bonus. I assume the 105 is hydro, as well?

    You're gonna be happy either way...go with your gut and ride it.


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  36. #636
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jacobray View Post
    I went with 2015 Ultegra because of the hubs, more than anything. DT 240s are bulletproof and the Ultegra was just a bonus. I assume the 105 is hydro, as well?

    You're gonna be happy either way...go with your gut and ride it.


    Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
    Yeah 105 brakes are the same as the Ultegra as I understand. I looked at the hubs too, $600 goes a long way though!!!

  37. #637
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    FWIW, you couldn't build the wheelset on the ultegra grade for $600... Check out the price of the 240 rear hub. Even if you're thinking of going with carbon wheels, the ultegra might make sense. You could relace the 240 hubs to carbon hoops and sell the unused Grails. Also, I'm pretty sure the levers on the 105 bike are not the carbon ones on the ultegra. Not sure if that matters to you or not, but the 105 hydraulic levers are not the same as the carbon levers that are ultegra uses. The 105 stuff is still great, just wouldn't want you to be disappointed.

  38. #638
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    Agreed, 105 is a solid group. I made some changes and upgrades to my bike, it was not originally 105, but I went to 11spd 105 and haven't had a single problem with it. I recently replaced the chain because the wear gauge said I should, but shifting was still solid and no excess noise to speak of, the new chain shifts smoothly and is still quiet, so it seems like the rings and cassette aren't worn much. Again, shows how solid the 105 is. Like mentioned, new wheels may cost more than the difference - but are the stock wheels tubeless ready? I forget. If not, that might be a step you want to take. Either way - this bike is a blast to ride.

  39. #639
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    Hi all
    I'm looking at a GT Grade Carbon Tiagra as my first ever non mountain bike, getting 35% off so it's a good deal. One thing that's confusing me - it has a PF30 shell with what seems to be a square taper FSA Vero crankset. Must be some kind of adaptor..? It sounds ugly/heavy so I'm keeping an eye out for a BB30 crankset to replace it with. I assume switching it to a standard PF30 BB will be straightforward? Will probably get a LBS to fit the bearings, just don't want to be stuck with a cartridge BB.
    Any other bits that I might want to replace from stock?
    Thanks all

  40. #640
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    Couldn’t make a decision so I bought an rlt rdo.

  41. #641
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    The new 10spd Tiagra stuff is pretty nice; I know a couple friends with it on Spesh Diverges. Your low points (like any Tiagra bike) are going to be the crankset and wheels. I'm not sure what GT uses to mount a square taper BB in the PF30 shell, but I worked on a Jamis that had a PF30 bb and it had a threaded aluminum tube pushed in there. It was a real pain to get it out, but once out the PF30 cups pushed right in.

    That said, the praxis works adapter GT uses on the 105 and Ultegra bikes is a pretty solid BB. I have several thousand of miles on mine with zero issues. I'd definitely consider going that route if you like Shimano cranks. They weigh a little more than some of the BB30 stuff, but they are solid.

    calibrit - which level RLT RDO did you buy? How do you like it? If I was in the market for a new gravel bike right now, it would be high on my list.

  42. #642
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    Quote Originally Posted by SlipperyToad View Post
    The new 10spd Tiagra stuff is pretty nice; I know a couple friends with it on Spesh Diverges. Your low points (like any Tiagra bike) are going to be the crankset and wheels. I'm not sure what GT uses to mount a square taper BB in the PF30 shell, but I worked on a Jamis that had a PF30 bb and it had a threaded aluminum tube pushed in there. It was a real pain to get it out, but once out the PF30 cups pushed right in.

    That said, the praxis works adapter GT uses on the 105 and Ultegra bikes is a pretty solid BB. I have several thousand of miles on mine with zero issues. I'd definitely consider going that route if you like Shimano cranks. They weigh a little more than some of the BB30 stuff, but they are solid.

    calibrit - which level RLT RDO did you buy? How do you like it? If I was in the market for a new gravel bike right now, it would be high on my list.
    Thanks for the reply.
    Yes, if there's an adaptor stuck in there I think I'll just leave it. It would be OK to fit a hollowtech BB I assume? I could then pick up an Ultegra crankset on eBay at quite a good price.
    Bit of a shame not to use the BB30. At the moment it's stopping me from buying it. I'm worried about being stuck with a square taper set up.
    Bike shop took a photo, doesn't give much away.

    GT Grade-file-1.jpg

  43. #643
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    That looks like your standard square taper bb... since the adapter is a standard 68mm width, you should be able to pull out that square taper bb and screw in a hollowtech bb no problem.

  44. #644
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    Sorry, double post.
    Ok thanks SlipperyToad. Doesn't sound too painful.
    Last edited by jbuckingham; 10-05-2017 at 01:54 PM. Reason: double post

  45. #645
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    Re RDO. Rival. Ultegra is silly expensive.

  46. #646
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    Please can you show a pic of the threaded side too, ta.

  47. #647
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    Getting ready for the ice, snow and darkness with a new wheelset with dynamo lights

    https://ep1.pinkbike.org/p6pb15341112/p6pb15341112.jpg


    Shutter Precision PD-8 QR 28H
    Hunt 4 Season Gravel disc
    DT Swiss Revolution
    Shimano SM-RT66 160mm


    DTSwiss 350 135mm 28H
    Hunt 4 Season Gravel disc
    DT Swiss Revolution
    Shimano SM-RT66 160mm

  48. #648
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    Hi - I too am looking at the Carbon Tiagra...as a roadie not wanting to be stopped from exploring a few tracks. I have been through all the posts, which have confirmed I am going in the right direction - and will spend the rest of my life worrying about wheels and tyres I am still a little confused with sizing - and wont be a able to try the bike first. I am 5'10 (177cm) with an inside leg of 32.5" (82.5cm). The first bike shop suggested a 56 - but later changed to 55 when I challenged them....I have seen suggestions in this forum that the 53 may also be suitable. My roadbike fit data was 733mm saddle to bottom bracket and a reach of 544 from saddle to bars. Any words of advice before I push the button?

  49. #649
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    Quote Originally Posted by calibrit View Post
    Re RDO. Rival. Ultegra is silly expensive.
    Can be, but not on all bikes, for example:

    Save Up to 60% Off Disc Brake Road Bikes - Motobecane Century PRO Ti Titanium Ultegra R8000 Hydraulic Disc Brake Road Bikes
    14 GT Zaskar 9r
    15 Moto Night Train
    08 BMC Trailfox
    06 Cannondale Rush
    99 GT XCR
    93 Raleigh MT 200

  50. #650
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    I'm 5'11 with a similar inside leg to you & went for the 55. It's a good fit, might try a 90mm stem just to see but it's not uncomfortable at all. I have 19cm of seatpost showing.
    I switched a couple of parts & the bike is now under 8.5kg on my not-very-accurate scales. Not bad at all, should be very respectable with a light wheelset.

  51. #651
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    I'm with jbuckingham, I'd guess you'd be happiest on a 55, but obviously bike fit is largely a matter of personal preference I'm 5'8" and ride a 55 with a 90mm stem - 31.5 cycling inseam and about a +1 ape index. I wanted the extra stack height of the 55 (I'm getting old), otherwise I'd have gone with the 53.

    Just in case you're open to ordering a bike online, Jenson USA still has at least one Grade Ultegra in 55 on sale for $2300. Using Active Junky, you can save off that too.

  52. #652
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    I’m 5’10” and also chose the 55 over the 53 to get the increased stack. However, as a result, I don’t have much seatpost showing and I’m running a 90mm stem. But the upright position was important to me. I think a 53 is a better fit for someone looking to be more aero or who wants more seatpost showing to gain more compliance in their ride.

  53. #653
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    Cheers all....I have decided to track one down for a fit

  54. #654
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    Quote Originally Posted by humphuk View Post
    Hi - I too am looking at the Carbon Tiagra...as a roadie not wanting to be stopped from exploring a few tracks. I have been through all the posts, which have confirmed I am going in the right direction - and will spend the rest of my life worrying about wheels and tyres I am still a little confused with sizing - and wont be a able to try the bike first. I am 5'10 (177cm) with an inside leg of 32.5" (82.5cm). The first bike shop suggested a 56 - but later changed to 55 when I challenged them....I have seen suggestions in this forum that the 53 may also be suitable. My roadbike fit data was 733mm saddle to bottom bracket and a reach of 544 from saddle to bars. Any words of advice before I push the button?
    I am a similar size to you and went for the 53 and I am so glad I did, it’s plenty big enough for me I recon the 55 would of felt huge, but each rider likes a different riding position. I would try both sizes if you can

  55. #655
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    Think you better 53 I'm 187 with 88 for me 56 fine, 55 size not too much difference in geometry to cover 10cm. worst case you always can put 10-20mm longer stem, much better than adjust sizing by shortening it.

  56. #656
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    I was finally able to sell my Grade over the holidays after more than a year of trying. It was carbon with tiagra drivetrain and some upgrades, and I'm surprised how much trouble I had selling since it had very low miles and I wasn't asking crazy money for it. I have a hunch that it being a GT drove forks away, since GT overall have gone significantly down market. The last time I saw a GT bike was at Dick's Sporting Goods, and not even Performance carries them anymore (at least in my area). GT's customer service is not good either, as even getting a hold of anyone is not an easy task. Best of luck to you all on your Grades!

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