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Everything Gt Lts

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#1 ·
Please Post Everything You Have Related To The Gt Lts Bike From Old Ads To Articles To Specs , Tips, Stories About Bike. Manuals And Of Course All You Pics . I Am Building A 1996 New Old Stock Lts 1 Frame I Found With All Xtr And Saint Parts
 

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#865 ·
where can i buy used Gt bikes at lowest price?
From your local Craigslist is where the LTS bargains are to be found apparently...

The sellers on ebay think the bikes they have now are made of unobtainium or something.... If someone offered me 1,200 large for my STS, I'd sell it too...

I've got a soft spot for a Trek y-11, 97 model and there's one seller asking more for one than what it cost new. They weren't even all that to begin with.
 
#866 ·
Shock upgrade

So, inspired by Ironv6's mod, y made one for myself, with a monarch R.
Went to the local lathe "maestros" and with a rough sketch we worked for three hours and got the pieces (in aluminum).

I attached some pictures of the pieces being made, and then mounted.

They are rough, ugly, but the mod works a treat! The bike felt so much better climbing and going down.

Now, I will just polish everything so to make them look neat.

BTW its a 98 lts 3000, changed the fork for a Tora (heavy as f%#$), and almost every component is xt or xtr.

What can I say I just love the bike, now I want to switch to a lighter fork (keeping it RS). Wood Machine tool Bumper Gas Milling
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#869 ·
So, inspired by Ironv6's mod, y made one for myself, with a monarch R.
Went to the local lathe "maestros" and with a rough sketch we worked for three hours and got the pieces (in aluminum).

I attached some pictures of the pieces being made, and then mounted.

They are rough, ugly, but the mod works a treat! The bike felt so much better climbing and going down.

Now, I will just polish everything so to make them look neat.

BTW its a 98 lts 3000, changed the fork for a Tora (heavy as f%#$), and almost every component is xt or xtr.

What can I say I just love the bike, now I want to switch to a lighter fork (keeping it RS). View attachment 777399 View attachment 777400 View attachment 777401
Very nice retrofitting! I don't have the trunion mount on my LTS-1, but I still stuffed a 6.5 ete Fox Float on there and it made all the difference in the world ad I'm sure you've felt. It's amazing how after all these years, these frames still dominate against alot of what's offered out there.
 
#872 ·
I'm part way though reading this thread. Some GREAT information. I did want ask you fellow LTS geeks :D about this one I picked up off Craigslist.

I think it's early, don't see any disc mounts in the rear...any info would be appreciated!

Can you tell the year by the serial number? Sorry if there is an answer in this thread, just have not completely read through yet.
 

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#873 · (Edited)
So I was able to get the s/n off the bottom: 960069 S So this is a small DH? Top tube length is about 17 1/2". Bottom Bracket to seat post is about 22"

Doesn't seem like a small to me, but guess it's the 1996/97 LTS DH small?

It's okay if I'm talking to myself, just want somewhere to have this info. I'm not on page 5 of this thread....might answer my own questions :thumbsup:

EDIT! Great info in this thread, just need to spend the time and weed through the fluff:D

http://mtb-kataloge.de/Bikekataloge/PDF/GT/1997.pdf

http://mtb-kataloge.de/Bikekataloge/PDF/GT/1998.pdf

http://mtb-kataloge.de/Bikekataloge/PDF/GT/1998-2.pdf

So from what I can gather on my 2 LTS DH's; My original one is a 1997 LTS DH size medium
And the one I just picked up from Craigslist for $240 is also a 1997 LTS DH but is a size small, and why it looks a little different.
I don't think I got a bad deal, but don't think I got an awesome deal either.

I reposted the above links from the middle of this thread....sorry but I geekout on this stuff.

although what is "rahmen" is that the DH kit with the chain guide?
 
#874 ·
Just a quick thought, your Craigslist bike may be a 96 or older. Note the cantilever hanger on rear triangle. By 97 they had gone to V-brakes on high and mid-level bikes.

It still looks pretty big for a small though, but then again, I don't know much about the DH bikes...never a hill big enough around me to justify one (or the 'nads for matter)
 
#875 ·
I think you're right John, I have both bikes side to side today and the differences are huge! I almost think the rear on the craigs might be a replacement? I'll take some more detailed pics of the 2 side to side....

I love geeking out on this stuff and hope some of you all can help once I post up better pictures and measurements.

Just a quick thought, your Craigslist bike may be a 96 or older. Note the cantilever hanger on rear triangle. By 97 they had gone to V-brakes on high and mid-level bikes.

It still looks pretty big for a small though, but then again, I don't know much about the DH bikes...never a hill big enough around me to justify one (or the 'nads for matter)
 
#876 ·
Well Im back in here for the second time, after buying my first lts december of 2012.

I just got a carbon STS frame on ebay with plans to rebuild. Turns out I only had a partial kit that happened to have a couple needle bearings in it.

Has anyone rebuilt the rear section with needle bearings instead of the old plastic type bearings? And more specifically Im looking at the ones from mtbcomponents in europe.

Im also planning on throwing a couple coats of clear over the carbon sections to smooth and protect, then some modern gt logos if I can find them.

 
#882 ·
Well Im back in here for the second time, after buying my first lts december of 2012.

I just got a carbon STS frame on ebay with plans to rebuild. Turns out I only had a partial kit that happened to have a couple needle bearings in it.
.

nice score! I was watching that for a long time! Can't wait to see it!
 
#878 ·
Pics of my kit, or pics of the one Im looking at?

This is the site Im looking into: GT Lts and Sts spares : Mountain bikes and componets by BETD Goldtec

To do the entire rear half is about 250, which is high but if its worth it I dont mind the cost.

Edit: Just realized we're talking about the same company ha, and that I didnt ask the question I meant. Im no stranger to modifications and mechanical maintenance so install wont be a problem. What Im curious about its the value; durability, longevity, quality compared to the old style bushings.
 
#879 ·
I did the entire swap-out of the bushings for the bearing kits from BETD on my 97 LTS-1. Completely worth it. Smooth, strong, and most importantly QUIET! In the case of the worn bushings and sleeves/cores (or whatever you call some of the metal bits in the bushing system) on my bike, the pivots firmed up. There was a lot of slop due to the worn nature of the sleeves/cores. Do it, you will be very happy with the results.
 
#881 ·
Hello all.
I have a question regarding the GT LTS specifically only in the 1995 model.
What is the difference between the GT LTS vs GT Team LTS (decal on the top tube).
Is it because GT Team LTS has all the higher end shimano XTR setup compared to the GT LTS.
&
Is the aluminium frame grading the same for both?
Is the rear fox suspension same for both?
Is the geometry & hinges the same for both?

Thank you.
 
#883 ·
Amazing to see how long this thread has been in existance. Love it.:thumbsup:

Its been a couple of years since I was more active on MTBR, but this thread got me inspired to fix up my 99' STS 1000 DS and put it back into service. I always was a big time fan of this bike and of GT back in the day. You can see a picture of my bike (how it was a few years back ago) in the "Post your GT here" thread in the first post.

So I got myself set up with everything that I needed for the rebuild:

...BETD LTS / STS bearing kit -> check
...new Mavic Crossmax ST wheelset -> check
...new XT groupset -> check
...new replacement oil for my oldskool Magura Gustav M's -> check
...fresh new lube / degreaser / cleaning materials -> check
...good mood -> check :cool:

So far so good with my rebuild - I completed everything over a couple of weekends and now I am working on the finishing touches.

Just one thing which seemed a bit unusual when I installed the bearing kit on the rear linkage - the bearing set for directly behind the trunion mounted shock. If you take a look at the attached picture - you will notice that there are spaces between the rear linkage and the seatstays. Before I installed the bearing kit, the old GT bushings filled up those spaces and there was no play. Now, there is no noticeable play when moved by hand, but when installing the travel chips I had to use a hammer :madman: and I noticed that this force causes the gaps between the rear linkage and seatstays to change. Hammer force from the right onto the travel chips --> seatstay space to the right gets bigger, just like on the picture below.

Did you also notice this when installing your bearing kits? I am thinking of heading down to the local hardware store to get some plastic spacers to fill up the gaps left and right of the linkage. What do you think? How did you solve this problem? Or is it not really a problem from your point of view?

Also one final question - when installing the new BB and cranks, I used ONE black 3.5mm spacer on the drive side of the BB to get up to 73mm (as recommended by Shimano) - this was ok, right? Can't help feel that the right crank might be a tad far out, but that could just be me not being used to how the hollowtech cranks look like....

Thanks for any help / answers you may have.

Pics will be posted once the bike is finished. :)

Best regards,

Cohiba

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#884 ·
Amazing to see how long this thread has been in existance. Love it.:thumbsup:

Its been a couple of years since I was more active on MTBR, but this thread got me inspired to fix up my 99' STS 1000 DS and put it back into service. I always was a big time fan of this bike and of GT back in the day. You can see a picture of my bike (how it was a few years back ago) in the "Post your GT here" thread in the first post.

So I got myself set up with everything that I needed for the rebuild:

...BETD LTS / STS bearing kit -> check
...new Mavic Crossmax ST wheelset -> check
...new XT groupset -> check
...new replacement oil for my oldskool Magura Gustav M's -> check
...fresh new lube / degreaser / cleaning materials -> check
...good mood -> check :cool:

So far so good with my rebuild - I completed everything over a couple of weekends and now I am working on the finishing touches.

Just one thing which seemed a bit unusual when I installed the bearing kit on the rear linkage - the bearing set for directly behind the trunion mounted shock. If you take a look at the attached picture - you will notice that there are spaces between the rear linkage and the seatstays. Before I installed the bearing kit, the old GT bushings filled up those spaces and there was no play. Now, there is no noticeable play when moved by hand, but when installing the travel chips I had to use a hammer :madman: and I noticed that this force causes the gaps between the rear linkage and seatstays to change. Hammer force from the right onto the travel chips --> seatstay space to the right gets bigger, just like on the picture below.

Did you also notice this when installing your bearing kits? I am thinking of heading down to the local hardware store to get some plastic spacers to fill up the gaps left and right of the linkage. What do you think? How did you solve this problem? Or is it not really a problem from your point of view?

Also one final question - when installing the new BB and cranks, I used ONE black 3.5mm spacer on the drive side of the BB to get up to 73mm (as recommended by Shimano) - this was ok, right? Can't help feel that the right crank might be a tad far out, but that could just be me not being used to how the hollowtech cranks look like....

Thanks for any help / answers you may have.

Pics will be posted once the bike is finished. :)

Best regards,

Cohiba

View attachment 784045
View attachment 784046
Cohiba, check out the PDF BETD has on how to install the bearing kit for that location. It can be found here: http://www.mountainbikecomponents.co.uk/ftp/product/pdf/LTS bearing kit fitting instructions.pdf

If you go to the last photo on the third page you will see how they advise using the flat 1 mm washers included in the kit to center the whole assembly.

Per their instruction, you don't put the washers onto the bolt, but wedge them between the linkage and the seatstays. It is a little hard to see in the photo, I actually missed it the first time I tried to do this install and was in the same quandary as you!

You then tighten the nyloc nuts until movement stops, then loosen and remove the washers.

I still had trouble with the whole thing moving to one side, so I went and got some nylon washers to make a spacer. Have ridden the bike with the nylon washers in the gaps between the linkage and seatstays with no trouble or noise for a couple of years now.
 
#885 ·
Finally got my 1996 LTS-DH assembled with the 1999 Boxxer, new PIG headset, XT disc, Saint lever, front hub....I may swap the stem. The frame is a medium plus I like the longer cockpit....I love this bike! This would have been my dream DH rig back in the day:D
 

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#888 ·
Love this thread - its the reason I've signed up. I have a '97 STS that I built up from the frame - pics will have to wait till I get a few posts under my belt.

Meanwhile - anybody have some dimensions on those bearings from BEDT or anybody elses bearing kit? I think I'll have a go at making my own bearing conversion and it would be a great head start (or I could go take my bike apart and measure...I only rode it once last year..)

Mike
 
#895 ·
They changed the rear upper link in 1997, and they made a few 1995 LTS-1's, but you could not run the new v-brakes on the rear. I know this because I changed my 95 over to run v-brakes. I pluged the rear brake studs and re-drilled them at the proper angle. I still have my 95 along with my 97 and my 99. I also still have my 1994 team RTS.
 
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