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  1. #701
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    Sorry, I use a 90mm fork.

    Bye

  2. #702
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    Quote Originally Posted by xpatenaude View Post
    How much front fork travel are you all using on our LTS? Any problems with 120mm travel forks? More? Thanks!
    it depends of the model
    I modified mine (98 1000DH) to fit a cannondale jekyll air shock, and I get 140/160mm rear travel and now I have a manitou minute MRD 130mm front, no problem
    for some time I had a manitou nixon 145mm, more relaxed angle, but no problem

  3. #703
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    This is the LTS my wife currently rides...





    My Rides:
    Mountain Cycle San Andreas VPS
    Mountain Cycle Rumble Ltd.
    Mountain Cycle Battery
    GT STS-2 Carbon
    GT LTS

  4. #704
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    Nice!
    Is your rear linkage modified by noleen, or is just the original painted in white?

    Bye

  5. #705
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    Clean. How does the wife manage with such a high stand-over?

  6. #706
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    Quote Originally Posted by Andrea GT View Post
    Nice!
    Is your rear linkage modified by noleen, or is just the original painted in white?

    Bye
    Noreen springs all round. The linkage id the same finish as the forks too. And my wife is tall so stand over is fine...
    My Rides:
    Mountain Cycle San Andreas VPS
    Mountain Cycle Rumble Ltd.
    Mountain Cycle Battery
    GT STS-2 Carbon
    GT LTS

  7. #707
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    My girlfriend is 1,80m, she has long legs :-), and she feels good on the 19" LTS frame. Just the stem is a little bit longer.

    Bye

  8. #708
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    1 post and than I can post some pics ...

  9. #709
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  10. #710
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    Quote Originally Posted by xpatenaude View Post
    How much front fork travel are you all using on our LTS? Any problems with 120mm travel forks? More? Thanks!
    Mine currently has a 180mm Marzocchi 66 installed in 2009. This is no longer my main ride and is mostly ridden by friends and friends-of-friends almost weekly; this bike has been ridden hard and so far the frame has held up despite the increased leverage of the fork.

    Go on ahead, I'm gonna take a breather.

  11. #711
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    Quote Originally Posted by winter View Post
    Mine currently has a 180mm Marzocchi 66 installed in 2009. This is no longer my main ride and is mostly ridden by friends and friends-of-friends almost weekly; this bike has been ridden hard and so far the frame has held up despite the increased leverage of the fork.

    I wouldn't call it wrong, but....
    Quote Originally Posted by NicoleB28 View Post
    topless. that's what all mtb girls do. we go ride, get topless, have pillow fights in the woods, scissor, then ride home!

  12. #712
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    Hey Guys, new to the fourm here. I have 1999 LTS-4 I purchased new. I used it for one year and then it pretty much collected dust for the next 13 years. Any way I pulled her out and dusted her off. Went for a mild 10 mile paved path spin and noticed the elastomer is wasted.

    Any thoughts on where i can get a replacement or retro to a LTS 1 type suspension?

    Thanks in advance for the input!!

  13. #713
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    couple of pics...
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Everything Gt Lts-gtii.jpg  

    Everything Gt Lts-gt.jpg  


  14. #714
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    This place has some old LTS stuff. Is this what you're after?

    GT LTS-3 Yellow Elastomer [236-151-07] : • Milwaukee Bicycle Co. • Ben's Cycle

  15. #715
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    Quote Originally Posted by otter1363 View Post
    ...retro to a LTS 1 type suspension?
    No conversion exists unless you want to fabricate it yourself. The elastomer sprung bikes are totally different animals.... The only easy way to make it use an eye-to-eye shock or trunion mount shock like the other LTS/STS bikes is to find another frame and use it, unfortunately. Good luck on finding a replacement!

  16. #716
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    Well, I dont think I'll be doing any custom fab work for this bike. Think I'll give Milwaukee Bike co. a call today.

    Thanks for the input!!

  17. #717
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    Well ordered the elastomer. It stated its for a LTS-5 but looks like it mounts the same way.

  18. #718
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    The attached pics are of my 1996 LTS1. I bought it new off the bike shop floor here in Georgia. Rode the tires off of it trying to keep up with my then 15 year old son.
    It has hung from my workshop ceiling since about 2000.
    What you see is the way I bought it. Only changes are the SDG saddle.
    I did not discover until later that the bike is equiped as a TEAM LTS. At the time I wanted the XTR equipped bike and did not know that only TEAM bikes came equiped the way mine was set up.

    I am surprised that there is such facination with these old relics.

    Though I have long since switched to a touring bike (Litespeed BlueRidge) this old LTS
    is NOT for sale.

    Just wanted to share what I was riding when I was 40.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Everything Gt Lts-gtlts.1.jpg  

    Everything Gt Lts-gtlts.2.jpg  

    Everything Gt Lts-gtlts.3.jpg  

    Everything Gt Lts-gtlts.4.jpg  

    Everything Gt Lts-gtlts.5.jpg  


  19. #719
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    Quote Originally Posted by TFR1 View Post
    The attached pics are of my 1996 LTS1. I bought it new off the bike shop floor here in Georgia. Rode the tires off of it trying to keep up with my then 15 year old son.
    It has hung from my workshop ceiling since about 2000.
    What you see is the way I bought it. Only changes are the SDG saddle.
    I did not discover until later that the bike is equiped as a TEAM LTS. At the time I wanted the XTR equipped bike and did not know that only TEAM bikes came equiped the way mine was set up.

    I am surprised that there is such facination with these old relics.

    Though I have long since switched to a touring bike (Litespeed BlueRidge) this old LTS
    is NOT for sale.

    Just wanted to share what I was riding when I was 40.
    Sweeeeeeeet!Unbelievable shape.

  20. #720
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    Looking at my pics I realize that the chain has rusted.
    Lack of use is always our worst enemy.
    I put road tires on it years ago so my daughter could ride. Looks like I need to get some good tires, a chain and see if these 'over 55' bones can still ride.

  21. #721
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    Quote Originally Posted by TFR1 View Post
    The attached pics are of my 1996 LTS1. I bought it new off the bike shop floor here in Georgia. Rode the tires off of it trying to keep up with my then 15 year old son.
    It has hung from my workshop ceiling since about 2000.
    What you see is the way I bought it. Only changes are the SDG saddle.
    I did not discover until later that the bike is equiped as a TEAM LTS. At the time I wanted the XTR equipped bike and did not know that only TEAM bikes came equiped the way mine was set up.
    You have a mix there. Looks like you got some XTR parts and a fork from a Team. The wheels are LTS-1, Teams had White hubs. Those rear hubs were notorious for grenading themselves, and GT replaced many of them under warranty. Mine didn't last a year and they replaced it with an LX hub.
    The Nuke Proof stem is a swap as well. Kore stems were OE on all LTS's.

    Quote Originally Posted by TFR1 View Post
    I am surprised that there is such facination with these old relics.

    Though I have long since switched to a touring bike (Litespeed BlueRidge) this old LTS
    is NOT for sale.
    Mine is!

  22. #722
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    GT guy,
    Thanks for the input. I have serviced the hubs, but never any problems. Just lucky I guess.
    When I bought the bike I suspected one of the guys in the bike shop had built it for himself, hoping to ride what they couldn't sell.

    Is there a list some whwre of std features for the different LTS models?

    TFR1

  23. #723
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    Several of us here have collections of old GT catalogs. There's also bikepedia.com and there is a german website with lots of old bike catalogs scanned. Retrobike has a nice catalog selection too - Catalogues | Retrobike

    Be careful with the euro catalogs - the specs were often different between US bikes and those sold elsewhere. The model names and color choices were often different as well.

  24. #724
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    attached is a pic of one of my 1999 GT LTS 2000 ds,it comes with STX rc/LX/XT groupset but the current LX shifters/rapidfire seems to be out of order..not sure if it can be fix or repaired..also i was wondering if any of the newer groupset which comes with 9 or 10 speed can be fitted to this frame?

    an advice or suggestion is much appreciated and thanks

  25. #725
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    opps 1st post,cant attach link or pics..non the less,i hope to get some feedbacks from anyone of you LTS owners

  26. #726
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    Quote Originally Posted by michaelZHsee View Post
    attached is a pic of one of my 1999 GT LTS 2000 ds,it comes with STX rc/LX/XT groupset but the current LX shifters/rapidfire seems to be out of order..not sure if it can be fix or repaired..also i was wondering if any of the newer groupset which comes with 9 or 10 speed can be fitted to this frame?

    an advice or suggestion is much appreciated and thanks
    I don't know this exact bike well, but I don't think you should have problem replacing your shifters with new SLX/XT/XTR ones unless they are a combo with the brake levers. There is still some old LX 9 speed shifters around, like at JensonUSA if that's what you want.

    Regarding a full groupset, I don't think you'd be running into trouble either, as long as you make sure to get all your parts right. The only problem I could potentially see might be your front derailleur (LTS frames were sometimes "specials") and your current bottom bracket (BB).
    Quote Originally Posted by NicoleB28 View Post
    topless. that's what all mtb girls do. we go ride, get topless, have pillow fights in the woods, scissor, then ride home!

  27. #727
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    Quote Originally Posted by michaelZHsee View Post
    attached is a pic of one of my 1999 GT LTS 2000 ds,it comes with STX rc/LX/XT groupset but the current LX shifters/rapidfire seems to be out of order..not sure if it can be fix or repaired..also i was wondering if any of the newer groupset which comes with 9 or 10 speed can be fitted to this frame?

    an advice or suggestion is much appreciated and thanks
    Sometimes shifters can be repaired, but when they are older (if yours are original) then internal parts might be difficult to find and effort/cost not worth it. You may want to try cleaning out the shifters, as they can get gummed up with dirt over the years.

    As far as putting a new groupset on the bike, should not be a problem at all. Your limitation might be in the gearing, if you have seven speed it might limit you due to the hub wanting only a seven speed cassette attached to it. If you have eight speed the spacing will handle all newer cassettes. As far as shifters and derailleurs they will all work, just bolt on and enjoy.
    "You're messing with my zen thing, man!"

  28. #728
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bokchoicowboy View Post
    Sometimes shifters can be repaired, but when they are older (if yours are original) then internal parts might be difficult to find and effort/cost not worth it. You may want to try cleaning out the shifters, as they can get gummed up with dirt over the years.

    As far as putting a new groupset on the bike, should not be a problem at all. Your limitation might be in the gearing, if you have seven speed it might limit you due to the hub wanting only a seven speed cassette attached to it. If you have eight speed the spacing will handle all newer cassettes. As far as shifters and derailleurs they will all work, just bolt on and enjoy.
    Thanks a million for the suggestion and advice mate,yeah i will look into it and see if the shifters can be fix,the current that im using is an 8 speed drivetrain.

    ok say if i were to go with only replacing a new 10 speed shifter,and the hub that im using currently are 8 speed,as you have mentioned above that it will handle all the newer cassettes,does that mean it can handle 10 speed cassettes too? also would the current 8 speed rear derailleur be compatible when it comes to 10 speed ratio?

    thanks again

  29. #729
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    Quote Originally Posted by David C View Post
    I don't know this exact bike well, but I don't think you should have problem replacing your shifters with new SLX/XT/XTR ones unless they are a combo with the brake levers. There is still some old LX 9 speed shifters around, like at JensonUSA if that's what you want.

    Regarding a full groupset, I don't think you'd be running into trouble either, as long as you make sure to get all your parts right. The only problem I could potentially see might be your front derailleur (LTS frames were sometimes "specials") and your current bottom bracket (BB).
    thanks a lot David C,i will look into this as well,im sure the shifters have become wonky but not concrete about the FD and the RD,i can see that the cable that attached to the RD has worn out as well.

    i wasnt very familiar with LTS as well as i got this bike from a friend for USD250, converted from Ringgit Malaysia 800,used to ride a lot back in the 90's, but as i moved to another city for career advancement for 8 years,i left those mountain bikes behind as theres no suitable routes around to ride(highway everywhere) ,i came back to my hometown early last month,i decided to ride again after i realized that the state government has converted the city to a cycling state.Im trying to catch up with the bicycle updates especially on mountain bikes where i have left more than a decade,so much has changed in the bicycle industry and all my bikes are retros now..

  30. #730
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    Quote Originally Posted by michaelZHsee
    ok say if i were to go with only replacing a new 10 speed shifter,and the hub that im using currently are 8 speed,as you have mentioned above that it will handle all the newer cassettes,does that mean it can handle 10 speed cassettes too? also would the current 8 speed rear derailleur be compatible when it comes to 10 speed ratio?

    thanks again
    Your question is very common; and it's no surprise given the planned obsolescence of Shimano and SRAM. In sum...

    Your current hub (technically it's a freehub) will have the correct width for 8- 9- and even 10-speed cassettes as these all have the same cassette width. However, you will need the corresponding shifter in order to properly shift the rear derailleur as the spacing between the cogs is different from 8- to 9- to 10-speed systems. Your current derailleur will work with Shimano 8- and 9-speed shifters and also with SRAM Attack shifters. If you decide to go 10-speed, you'll need a 10-speed specific shifter AND derailleur as well because 10-speed mountain grouppos have a different cable pull ratio than 8- and 9-speed grouppos.

    Lots of info over on the drivetrain sub-forum if you have the time to browse the threads.
    Go on ahead, I'm gonna take a breather.

  31. #731
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    I did replace the elastomer on my LTS-4 (thanks for the link!!) and its back operational.

    I stopped by a local bike shop today, looking at some of the new Trek bikes. I mentioned to the sales guy I have an old GT LTS-4 I was considering selling. He seemed to be intrested when he heard its an LTS. I have no idea what it might be worth, maybe some one can chime in?? It has one season use, prolly 150 miles if that. Other than needing a good cleaning, its in very good condition. I know its the low end version of the LTS line, just looking for an idea.

    Pic of said bike... (same pic)
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Everything Gt Lts-lts-4.jpg  


  32. #732
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    I'd there a plac on the forum to sale bikes? I have a 98 Lts. Any ideas on a fair price to sell it for? Its been sitting for several years.

  33. #733
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    Yup, at the top of the page, you have a link for the MTBR classified
    Quote Originally Posted by NicoleB28 View Post
    topless. that's what all mtb girls do. we go ride, get topless, have pillow fights in the woods, scissor, then ride home!

  34. #734
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    started on my 96 LTS build this week... need to keep adding one liners until I'm allowed to post pics

  35. #735
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    Decided to keep the LTS, I know its a bottom line elastomer model but ya know. Stripping it down so I can clea her upn and put back to the origional condition. whatever lol...

  36. #736
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    elastomer to shock conversion

    can you convert the elastomer frame to a normal shock version is this possible ? has anybody done it

  37. #737
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    Frame size

    Hello all,
    Looking for a project LTS/STS frame, but quite sure what is the right frame size for me. I΄m 6΄2". What size frames are you guys riding?
    Have not decided, whether to get DS or XC frame.
    Thanks for any replies.

    Clydesdale Sam

  38. #738
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    Rebuilding GT LTS-1

    Hey guys,

    I am alomost done with updating my older 1996 GT LTS-1!!!
    I have had so much fun re-building this bike!!

    But I had a few questions before I'm calling it "done"

    #1). Getting rear disc brakes??
    I have seen many different ways to install a new rear disc brake on your bike. (brake therapy, a2z disc brake adapter, ect.) But I was wondering if anyone has had good luck using something on their LTS bicycle??

    and

    #2). What rear shock I should install?, and what is the correct size?
    I know a few people on here have updated their rear shock, so what worked best, and what should I stay away from?

    Please any help and suggestions would be super awesome!!


    anyway here are some of my pictures of my updated GT LTS-1
    hope you enjoy the pictures.
    Thanks very much!

    -Bryan









    Last edited by volc0m13; 07-16-2012 at 10:34 AM. Reason: forgot title

  39. #739
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    I'm really liking the polished aluminum. Great job!
    2012 Intense M9
    2012 Pivot Mach 5.7 Carbon
    2008 Look 595
    2007 Custom Litespeed Sewanee

  40. #740
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    Where can I find the elastomer for a lts 4.
    Last edited by alltradz; 07-18-2012 at 07:54 PM.

  41. #741
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    Probably Ben's Cycle who bought out a lot of the LTS and STS parts when Pacific bought GT.

    • GT LTS/STS : • Milwaukee Bicycle Co. • Ben's Cycle
    Needed: 26.8mm XTR seatpost, blue GT/Grundig Jersey.

  42. #742
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    Gt Lts 4

    There sold out, any other suggestions.

  43. #743
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    Needed: 26.8mm XTR seatpost, blue GT/Grundig Jersey.

  44. #744
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    You can't be possibly leaving the rear disc on there are you? Just a little ghetto? Nice build however. Looks pretty badass

  45. #745
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    Help with shock

    Hi all, I am new to the forum. I have a GT Lts-2 1996 I think and I would like to upgrade the rear shock to one that locks. Can I still get one? anyone know a model?

    Thanks!

  46. #746
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    TheButcha - if you've got the same frame as mine, highly recommend the Fox Float RP2. I lock mine using the propedal settings and am able to adjust things like rebound
    Last edited by davevo_82; 07-26-2012 at 11:37 PM.
    Current rides: 1996 GT LTS-3, Bianchi Nirone C2C, Giant Trinity
    SOLD: 2009 Giant Anthem X0, 2008 Orbea Alma Carbon Team

  47. #747
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    See below

    Quote Originally Posted by davevo_82 View Post
    Hi all,

    First time post on MTBR - but have drawn a lot of inspiration from here.

    My childhood rebuild was brought to modern day specs and is now 99% complete. The specs looks as follows:

    Frame: 1996 GT LTS-3 Never built up before this. The swingarm has been modified to have a disc mount (thanks to GripSport in Melbourne, Victoria)
    Rear shock - Fox Float RP2 with Propedal (140mm e-to-e)
    Headset: Tioga
    Fork: RST F1rst Platinum RL
    Cranks: Truactiv Stylo with external BB
    Cassette: SRAM PC990
    Shifters: Front - XTR M960 dual controls, Rear - XT M775 dual controls
    Rims: Easton XC One with Schwalbe Rocket Rons 2.1s
    Brakes: Front - XT M775, Rear - XT M775 (mounted on courtesy of GripSport. Thank you Jon!)
    Pedals: XT
    Stem: Easton EA50
    Seatpost: FSA FR200
    Handlebar: Specialized Carbon flat bars
    Saddle: Fizik Tundra
    Weight: 11.3kgs

    Last few changes will be:
    - Stem
    - Seatpost
    - BETD bearing kit for the pivot points (to get rid of the bushings)

    Should bring it down to 11kgs exact - and that will be it!



    Current rides: 1996 GT LTS-3, Bianchi Nirone C2C, Giant Trinity
    SOLD: 2009 Giant Anthem X0, 2008 Orbea Alma Carbon Team

  48. #748
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    sweet build! I really like it. I have been looking for awhile for a new rear shock and have had no luck what so ever. I'm jealous of your Fox float RP2

  49. #749
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    Quote Originally Posted by volc0m13 View Post
    sweet build! I really like it. I have been looking for awhile for a new rear shock and have had no luck what so ever. I'm jealous of your Fox float RP2
    I bought mine from CRC a few years ago.. I believe the 140mm shocks were used on the Cannondales..

    To answer your question above about disc brakes.. I had mounts welded on.. And never regretted it.. I initially tried to use the A2Z adapter.. But it was too much of a hassle removing the rear wheel and the adapter kept on requiring readjustment...

    So if you can.. To straight for a good welder who knows what he's doing.. Where are you located?
    Current rides: 1996 GT LTS-3, Bianchi Nirone C2C, Giant Trinity
    SOLD: 2009 Giant Anthem X0, 2008 Orbea Alma Carbon Team

  50. #750
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    Quote Originally Posted by davevo_82 View Post
    I bought mine from CRC a few years ago.. I believe the 140mm shocks were used on the Cannondales..

    To answer your question above about disc brakes.. I had mounts welded on.. And never regretted it.. I initially tried to use the A2Z adapter.. But it was too much of a hassle removing the rear wheel and the adapter kept on requiring readjustment...

    So if you can.. To straight for a good welder who knows what he's doing.. Where are you located?
    Sorry, I was on the mobile when I replied he above... anyway, try the below:

    X-Fusion O2 Rear Air Mtb Shock 140mm 1-in | eBay
    Cane Creek AD 12 Rear Mtb Air Shock 140mm 1.5-in | eBay
    Current rides: 1996 GT LTS-3, Bianchi Nirone C2C, Giant Trinity
    SOLD: 2009 Giant Anthem X0, 2008 Orbea Alma Carbon Team

  51. #751
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    i just found one of these listed on my local craigs list... im 6'0" what size should i be looking at? im gonna take a look at it tomorrow!!! awsome thread...

  52. #752
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    Quote Originally Posted by stecz20 View Post
    i just found one of these listed on my local craigs list... im 6'0" what size should i be looking at? im gonna take a look at it tomorrow!!! awsome thread...
    18" c-c
    Needed: 26.8mm XTR seatpost, blue GT/Grundig Jersey.

  53. #753
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    Quote Originally Posted by gm1230126 View Post
    18" c-c

    thank you... thats what size it is..

  54. #754
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    1997 gt lts-2

    Could not pass on this!!! In great shape and ridden a handful of times... $300 from Craigslist...... SN#S7KA1961 Can't really make out how that reads, but maybe one of you guys will...

    Ive been looking hard at a karakoram, thought i had my heart set again!!! After seeing this, ill be looking for a matching Zaskar...
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  55. #755
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    Hey all I have an lts-3 that I acquired a couple years ago that I'm looking to sell, but I would like to get some more information first. The serial is S7IA4411. Can anyone help with some information? Thanks!

  56. #756
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    lts 2000 front derailer

    hi can anybody tell me what front derailer i should have i this frame or one they reconmend many thanks

  57. #757
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    May i know how old is GT LTS-2

  58. #758
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    For anyone who keeps wondering where is a replacement shock for your trunion-mount frame, here's your answer! I should've known that the answer was so simple to be found on ebay! Just take an old eye-to-eye shock and thread a trunion mount onto it! So simple!

    I love the sellers response to the one question...
    Q: is the rear shock completely, properly mounted?
    A: Hi Yes, the rear shock have a special adapter from factory. That's the way it should be mounted Thanks
    Now we know how it should be, so I don't want to hear any more questions about rear shocks. Item number 221124944622 for those who want it done right.
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  59. #759
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    There's a good simple tip on the trunion....

  60. #760
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    It's been a while since I've been on here, and I've only read up to about page 8 on replies. I just bought a STS frame to build up instead of the LTS one that I still haven't gotten around to. I just moved and have a buddy that used to be a bike mechanic and he's gonna help me with the build in exchange for beer.
    I'm curious if anyone has, or has a source for, the liners to guide the cables through the frame? I'd much rather get the routed the right way than have to zip tie them to the frame.

  61. #761
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    It's been a while since I've been on here, and I've only read up to about page 8 on replies. I just bought a STS frame to build up instead of the LTS one that I still haven't gotten around to. I just moved and have a buddy that used to be a bike mechanic and he's gonna help me with the build in exchange for beer.
    I'm curious if anyone has, or has a source for, the liners to guide the cables through the frame? I'd much rather get the routed the right way than have to zip tie them to the frame.

  62. #762
    Pickin' n' Grinnin'
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    If anyone has a great condition LTS or STS frame for sale, send me an PM.

    Edit: No more need for this, as I just purchased a used Ellsworth Moment.
    Last edited by btl68; 11-12-2012 at 05:57 AM. Reason: No more need for a LTS or an STS
    Ignorance is bliss until they take your bliss away...

  63. #763
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    Quote Originally Posted by btl68 View Post
    If anyone has a great condition LTS or STS frame for sale, send me an PM.
    How about a complete LTS? PM sent.

  64. #764
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    Quote Originally Posted by GT_guy View Post
    How about a complete LTS? PM sent.
    PM's answered, offer sent, awaiting reply.
    Ignorance is bliss until they take your bliss away...

  65. #765
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    Pivot replacement parts LTS 3

    I need to get pivot replacement parts for a 96/97 LTS-3. Does anyone know where I can find the lower and upper pivot replacment parts for this bike?

    Thanks
    Get out of the gutter and onto the mountain top.

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  66. #766
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    you can find the replacement parts you need along with the sealed roller bearing kits at Betd... GT Lts and Sts spares : Mountain bikes and componets by BETD Goldtec

  67. #767
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    Can anyone post some pics with close-ups of cable routing on a STS? I just turned over my frame to my buddy to build it up for me and he's concerned about how the cable comes out of the down tube for the front deraileur and also about proper length for the rear deraileur. I'm assuming a good loop is required for the rear, but not sure. Are there any special fittings that should be used where the cables come out from the frame or anything else special that should be considered???

  68. #768
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    I'm not proud of these pictures....

    This is the way it's done on my STS. The other bike that I never ride is even worse than it.
    I have a short section of cable liner that gives is some protection, but I hardly think its enough. As seldom as I ride it anymore, I have no intention of changing it, so maybe someone else has it it run differently and better than my setup.

    Just make sure your rear derailleur has a bit of a gentle curve to it when the suspension is fully extended between the top tube and rear triangle. If it is run totally straight, it could cause ghost shifting as I found out the hard way.

    I just used regular metal cable ends on mine and haven't had any problems.
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  69. #769
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    Quote Originally Posted by johntheroadie View Post
    This is the way it's done on my STS.
    Ooh I do love that STS...
    2012 Intense M9
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  70. #770
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    Quote Originally Posted by singletrackmack View Post
    I need to get pivot replacement parts for a 96/97 LTS-3. Does anyone know where I can find the lower and upper pivot replacment parts for this bike?

    Thanks
    • GT LTS/STS : • Milwaukee Bicycle Co. • Ben's Cycle
    Needed: 26.8mm XTR seatpost, blue GT/Grundig Jersey.

  71. #771
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    rear disc brake fouling

    please can any one help i have fitted one of those a2z disc brake adapters and replaced the horstlink bottom brushes baiscally when i spin the rear wheel the disc dont touch on the pads but when i pedal or turn a corner it rubs quite badly its a real nightmare am that close to giving up has anyone had this experience with these adapters or having rear disc brakes on a lts ? my friend reckons its the frame flexing and lts cant run rear disc brakes because of this and were never desighed to have them but i dont think thats exactly true because am sure 99 lts had disc brakes correct me if am wrong please help me guys its took me months and months to build this bike from scatch i really dont want to give up

  72. #772
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    Did you bolt the adapter to your left rear dropout along with the skewer atachment? Send pictures. I did one on my wifes 96 small lts-1 and it worked just fine except when i had to take the rear wheel off. No rubbing of the rotor when everything is bolted up snug.

  73. #773
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    rear disc brake fouling
    Check out the other options for Disk Brakes on page 27 of this forum...

  74. #774
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    Quote Originally Posted by doralswheels View Post
    Did you bolt the adapter to your left rear dropout along with the skewer atachment? Send pictures. I did one on my wifes 96 small lts-1 and it worked just fine except when i had to take the rear wheel off. No rubbing of the rotor when everything is bolted up snug.
    thank you so much for the reply our do some pictures now and upload them

  75. #775
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    Quote Originally Posted by Betoh00 View Post
    Check out the other options for Disk Brakes on page 27 of this forum...
    thanks for the reply yes i have but am not keen on drilling holes am not confident it doing that i dont understand why the a2z mount dont work well it does its just this rubbing

  76. #776
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    SAVIE62. Go to the "BRAKE TIME" forum and then find "rear disc brake adapter help", then scroll down to # 10. It shows the GT type mounting adapters. Also read #11 at the same site and look at the hayes and magura click-ons. You can make your own adapter mounting bracket and save your self the trouble you are having. Hope this helps. Also, go to page 7 of the "BRAKE TIME" forum and then scroll down 3 lines to "A2Z disc brake adapter for frames without disc mount, anyone try one"? There is alot of info at this page. Good luck.
    Last edited by doralswheels; 11-14-2012 at 04:11 PM.

  77. #777
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    Quote Originally Posted by doralswheels View Post
    SAVIE62. Go to the "BRAKE TIME" forum and then find "rear disc brake adapter help", then scroll down to # 10. It shows the GT type mounting adapters. Also read #11 at the same site and look at the hayes and magura click-ons. You can make your own adapter mounting bracket and save your self the trouble you are having. Hope this helps. Also, go to page 7 of the "BRAKE TIME" forum and then scroll down 3 lines to "A2Z disc brake adapter for frames without disc mount, anyone try one"? There is alot of info at this page. Good luck.
    thanks for that it would apear people rate them and dont seem to have any problem which is making me wonder about the frame now

  78. #778
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  79. #779
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    What's holding your the adapter on the top? Mine doesn't look the same as yours where the little machined part butts up against the seatstay. Also, I didn't need to use any shims or washers to bolt mine up.

    My problem was whenever you tried to pull the rear tire off, you'd have to literally spread the rear triangle apart to get it out...the hub axle was too beefy to slip out of the adapters dropouts. Mine didn't have any problems rubbing, like yours. It worked for me but I didn't put on a whole lot of miles on mine. Your rear hub is still in good shape, right?
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  80. #780
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    What type of skewer are you using? Is it the lever type that you just bend over to tighten? If it is, why are you running the lever on the drive side of the bike. I am thinking, maybe its the skewer, and you are not tightening it enough, but i would not run it on the drive side. Also, you said something in the begining about the rear pivot. Are you sure you have the pivots set up correctly, with the sleeve between the 2 bushings installed and torqed to 15-20" pounds with blue locktight installed. Just trying to think it out. See how "johntheroadie" has the skewer lever on the non-drive side of the bike.

  81. #781
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    Quote Originally Posted by johntheroadie View Post
    What's holding your the adapter on the top? Mine doesn't look the same as yours where the little machined part butts up against the seatstay. Also, I didn't need to use any shims or washers to bolt mine up.

    My problem was whenever you tried to pull the rear tire off, you'd have to literally spread the rear triangle apart to get it out...the hub axle was too beefy to slip out of the adapters dropouts. Mine didn't have any problems rubbing, like yours. It worked for me but I didn't put on a whole lot of miles on mine. Your rear hub is still in good shape, right?
    you may have somethin there it would apear that am missing a bolt at the top like yours there is one there but its behind the plate at the top if i take it apart i can use that bolt and a washer to clamp it up at the top , the rear seems fine doesnt apear to have any play in the wheel

  82. #782
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    Quote Originally Posted by doralswheels View Post
    What type of skewer are you using? Is it the lever type that you just bend over to tighten? If it is, why are you running the lever on the drive side of the bike. I am thinking, maybe its the skewer, and you are not tightening it enough, but i would not run it on the drive side. Also, you said something in the begining about the rear pivot. Are you sure you have the pivots set up correctly, with the sleeve between the 2 bushings installed and torqed to 15-20" pounds with blue locktight installed. Just trying to think it out. See how "johntheroadie" has the skewer lever on the non-drive side of the bike.
    hi i did have a quick release but with the clamp i founf that a allen key type 12mm axle is better for geting it tighter its exactlt the same as the quick release just no springs and alley key bolts either en

  83. #783
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    Very good choice on the skewer/axle. I hope that missing bolt will solve your problem. My wife's lts worked for over 3 years with the AtoZ adapter, but she finnlley wanted a newer bike, so we bought her a Santa Cruz Julliana. I still have 1 RTS team and 2 LTS's along with about 20 other mountain and 3 road bikes. It is getting crowded in the garage/shop.

  84. #784
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    I wish I could post up a picture of a close up of the bolts I'm talking about, but that I sold that bike to a friend of a friend so that he could get into biking... I still haven't seen him on the trail yet.

    My STS pictured earlier is now a mullet; Disc on the front, V-brake on the rear. If all else fails, you could consider that route. However, I really hope you get it sorted out and let us know how that works out.

    Thanks doralwheels for making me feel better about my addiction. I whittled my collection down to 2 STSs and 3 LTSs. I did pick up about three 29ers... to make up for that loss.

  85. #785
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    Addiction

    Quote Originally Posted by johntheroadie View Post
    I wish I could post up a picture of a close up of the bolts I'm talking about, but that I sold that bike to a friend of a friend so that he could get into biking... I still haven't seen him on the trail yet.

    My STS pictured earlier is now a mullet; Disc on the front, V-brake on the rear. If all else fails, you could consider that route. However, I really hope you get it sorted out and let us know how that works out.

    Thanks doralwheels for making me feel better about my addiction. I whittled my collection down to 2 STSs and 3 LTSs. I did pick up about three 29ers... to make up for that loss.
    John. Sorry, i forgot the GT Zaskar ti hardtail hanging up in the attic. I want to try some 650b wheels on it, but i havn't had time yet. Doral

  86. #786
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    you have a ti Zaskar? freaking sweet man.

  87. #787
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    well today was a instresting day it would apear that the a2z mount is fine its a good piece of enginering that .
    The a2z mount dont move at all , the problems were the frame and using a massive 203mm disc on the back the LTS bless it in 1990,s was out of this world but compared to todays full suspension frames they are miles apart, theres way to much flex in the rear mainly down to the bushes i reckon and many of them.
    The 203mm disc mount and the the caliper bolted on top of that was not helping this flex as there was more liveridge from the longer caliper mount so i have have fitted a 160mm disc and mount and seems to be ok, as the mount sits lower down over the smaller disc so less leveridge but the frame still flexes if you press the rear brake and rock a pedal backwards and forwards have a look at how much flex the lts has its shocking and my bushes are fine but at least i can use disc brakes now

  88. #788
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  89. #789
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    There are some very cool LTS's on here! Keep up the great work everyone!

  90. #790
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    rear suspension

    anybody reconmend a good shock to use on the rear discovered somethin today if you change the bottom bracket height to maxium by turning the trunion adustment down it actailly winds your shock in aswell taking all your travel away so more height you want from the bottom bracket less travel you have so i have my bottom bracket quite low which ant great but am geting good travel at the rear this way but would like a good bottom bracket height without comprising the travel

  91. #791
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    PSA on a clean looking LTS 2000

    Saw this on my local craiglist and thought I would share, looks clean.

    GT LTS 2000 FULL SUSPENSION MOUNTAIN BIKE

  92. #792
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    Quote Originally Posted by morlysafer View Post
    Saw this on my local craiglist and thought I would share, looks clean.
    It absolutely does. Looks like it is all original equipment to me. I think something is said by the fact that there are reflectors on it too. Too bad that frame is so darn small...
    2012 Intense M9
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  93. #793
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    I'm still holding out for a 99 model with disc brake tabs or an XR-1000...

    Good looking bike tho'

  94. #794
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    rear disc brake nightmare continues

    well as you probaly would of been reading my previuos post about my rear disc rubing on my pads that i thought i solved how wrong i was
    its still rubing but only when i turn corners agressively it must be the rear end flexing i cant see any play in bushes but theres alot more force involved when your riding has anybody had experience of this is this normal ? how can you normally tell if a bush is gone

  95. #795
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    I suspected my bushings were shot because when I would really *really* get on the power going up a hill, it would actually twist the rear triangle enough to make the rear derailleur ghost shift. Does yours do that? I never noticed any brake rubbing because I ran V-brakes at that time.

    Remove your rear shock. Even though it shouldn't be a lateral load bearing member, it may be trying to hide how much wear your suspension pivots may have. If you can, remove your horst pivot bolts and then check how much play is in each section of the suspension. When I took out the horst pivot bolts and separated my chainstay from the seatstay I found a lot of lateral (left-right) play in my chainstay.

    On a side note, I actually never replaced my horst pivot bushings, I didn't see them causing any problems, but the bushings on the front triangle were the one that were totally shot on mine.

    Rather than try to find bushings, I just upgraded mine to a BETD bearing kit, upper and lower. Pricey, but problem solved. Good luck on finding something wrong!
    Last edited by johntheroadie; 11-22-2012 at 06:54 PM. Reason: typos

  96. #796
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    Quote Originally Posted by johntheroadie View Post
    I suspected my bushings were shot because when I would really *really* get on the power going up a hill, it would actually twist the rear triangle enough to make the rear derailleur ghost shift. Does yours do that? I never noticed any brake rubbing because I ran V-brakes at that time.

    Remove your rear shock. Even though it shouldn't be a lateral load bearing member, it may be trying to hide how much wear your suspension pivots may have. If you can, remove your horst pivot bolts and then check how much play is in each section of the suspension. When I took out the horst pivot bolts and separated my chainstay from the seatstay I found a lot of lateral (left-right) play in my chainstay.

    On a side note, I actually never replaced my horst pivot bushings, I didn't see them causing any problems, but the bushings on the front triangle were the one that were totally shot on mine.

    Rather than try to find bushings, I just upgraded mine to a BETD bearing kit, upper and lower. Pricey, but problem solved. Good luck on finding something wrong!
    hi thanks for the reply yeah if the bushing have gone i would get the betd ones but i dont want to do that only to find the frame just flexes anyway and there is nothing you can do about it meaning you can never use disc brakes on the back without them catching thats why i was asking if anyone runs disc brakes on the back with no problems using a a2z mount i could never go back to v brakes now love lts last thing i want to do is get another frame but if i cant stop brake rubing nightmare

  97. #797
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    a2z mount anybody use all the time

    hi does anybody use the a2z mount permantly on any lts if so do they have any problems like brake rubbing and mount moving

  98. #798
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    I have a 1997 GT LTS-1 that I have been using an A2Z DM-UNI adapter on for about two years. I have not had any trouble with the adapter at all, and have really enjoyed having disc brakes instead of v-brakes.

    I have only used a 160 mm rotor with mechanical disc calipers. I don't see any reason to upsize the rotor in the rear of the bike. I am going to change out the 160 on the front of my bike to a 180 to get better braking, but that doesn't have anything to do with the A2Z adapter. Most braking force is in the front anyway, so a larger diameter disc in the rear is overkill as far as I am concerned, and if it causes more lateral force on the whole setup it is probably a good idea to stick with what I have.

    I am a larger rider (6' 1.5" @ 255 lbs) so I put a lot of force on the rear of the bike. I have felt flex, but I think that is inherent in the design. I have the complete BETD bearing kit, and that eliminated some flex, but not all of it. Just something I have learned to live with. With the flex I have not noticed any rubbing of the disc, so I do not think the flex is based on the Horst link at the dropout, near the adapter. I think it is at the bottom bracket pivot, so the disc stays tracking pretty square.

    The adapter has stayed in place just fine. I have checked the torque of the bolts (the A2Z instruction sheet sucks, by the way) periodically and have found them tight. The blue Locktite I used may have helped in that. The only time anything was out of sorts was after the initial install I had difficulty with removing/installing the wheel. Another poster made a comment on how difficult it was to get the wheel in and out of the dropouts when using this adapter. I loosened up the bolts a few times and fine tuned the position of everything until I found a "sweet spot" where the wheel would move the best and still have the adapter in the correct position. Clamped everything down to torque spec and it has all been great. It does take a little bit of spreading to get the wheel out and in, but a good whack on the top of the wheel will get it to drop out, then I hold the rear of the triangle give a bit of a spread apart when dropping the frame down into the wheel, goes in just fine.

    I did have to readjust the position of the adapter when I changed my top pivot and Horst link pivots from the bushings to the BETD bearings. Everything in the rear triangle moved around during that install, and the adapter needed to be fine-tuned in position again. No problems since then.

    My photos of the adapter are here: Keeping a weather eye on the horizon: Equipment Review: A2Z DM-UNI Disc Brake Adaptor I wrote that up after a little less than a year with the adapter in place.
    "You're messing with my zen thing, man!"

  99. #799
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bokchoicowboy View Post
    I have a 1997 GT LTS-1 that I have been using an A2Z DM-UNI adapter on for about two years. I have not had any trouble with the adapter at all, and have really enjoyed having disc brakes instead of v-brakes.

    I have only used a 160 mm rotor with mechanical disc calipers. I don't see any reason to upsize the rotor in the rear of the bike. I am going to change out the 160 on the front of my bike to a 180 to get better braking, but that doesn't have anything to do with the A2Z adapter. Most braking force is in the front anyway, so a larger diameter disc in the rear is overkill as far as I am concerned, and if it causes more lateral force on the whole setup it is probably a good idea to stick with what I have.

    I am a larger rider (6' 1.5" @ 255 lbs) so I put a lot of force on the rear of the bike. I have felt flex, but I think that is inherent in the design. I have the complete BETD bearing kit, and that eliminated some flex, but not all of it. Just something I have learned to live with. With the flex I have not noticed any rubbing of the disc, so I do not think the flex is based on the Horst link at the dropout, near the adapter. I think it is at the bottom bracket pivot, so the disc stays tracking pretty square.

    The adapter has stayed in place just fine. I have checked the torque of the bolts (the A2Z instruction sheet sucks, by the way) periodically and have found them tight. The blue Locktite I used may have helped in that. The only time anything was out of sorts was after the initial install I had difficulty with removing/installing the wheel. Another poster made a comment on how difficult it was to get the wheel in and out of the dropouts when using this adapter. I loosened up the bolts a few times and fine tuned the position of everything until I found a "sweet spot" where the wheel would move the best and still have the adapter in the correct position. Clamped everything down to torque spec and it has all been great. It does take a little bit of spreading to get the wheel out and in, but a good whack on the top of the wheel will get it to drop out, then I hold the rear of the triangle give a bit of a spread apart when dropping the frame down into the wheel, goes in just fine.

    I did have to readjust the position of the adapter when I changed my top pivot and Horst link pivots from the bushings to the BETD bearings. Everything in the rear triangle moved around during that install, and the adapter needed to be fine-tuned in position again. No problems since then.

    My photos of the adapter are here: Keeping a weather eye on the horizon: Equipment Review: A2Z DM-UNI Disc Brake Adaptor I wrote that up after a little less than a year with the adapter in place.
    hi thanks for the reply so theres hope for me yet then well i have replaced the horst link bushes and also droped to a 160mm disc the rubbing is not as bad and i only notice it when i turn handle bars or go round corners other wise it dont rub.
    Must be to do with the bushes, am i right in thinking your sugesting it would be worth changing the bottom bracket pivot bushes ? one thing i have noticed is if i hold the rear brake very tight and rock the left pedal with my foot and can see lower arm move geting closer to the tyre not sure if thats normal but would certainly cause disc to rub i would think

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    Quote Originally Posted by savie62 View Post
    hi thanks for the reply so theres hope for me yet then well i have replaced the horst link bushes and also droped to a 160mm disc the rubbing is not as bad and i only notice it when i turn handle bars or go round corners other wise it dont rub.
    Must be to do with the bushes, am i right in thinking your sugesting it would be worth changing the bottom bracket pivot bushes ? one thing i have noticed is if i hold the rear brake very tight and rock the left pedal with my foot and can see lower arm move geting closer to the tyre not sure if thats normal but would certainly cause disc to rub i would think
    If you can see the movement that clearly, then the bushings are probably really slack and need to be replaced very soon. When I got my LTS frame, the bushings were worst at the bottom bracket pivot and the rear of the link behind the trunion mount. There was a lot of slop, lot of movement laterally. Replacing the bottom bracket pivot with a bearing tightened things up immensely. I think you will see your trouble diminish or go away altogether if you get the bearing at least for that same pivot.
    "You're messing with my zen thing, man!"

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