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  1. #776
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    SAVIE62. Go to the "BRAKE TIME" forum and then find "rear disc brake adapter help", then scroll down to # 10. It shows the GT type mounting adapters. Also read #11 at the same site and look at the hayes and magura click-ons. You can make your own adapter mounting bracket and save your self the trouble you are having. Hope this helps. Also, go to page 7 of the "BRAKE TIME" forum and then scroll down 3 lines to "A2Z disc brake adapter for frames without disc mount, anyone try one"? There is alot of info at this page. Good luck.
    Last edited by doralswheels; 11-14-2012 at 04:11 PM.

  2. #777
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    Quote Originally Posted by doralswheels View Post
    SAVIE62. Go to the "BRAKE TIME" forum and then find "rear disc brake adapter help", then scroll down to # 10. It shows the GT type mounting adapters. Also read #11 at the same site and look at the hayes and magura click-ons. You can make your own adapter mounting bracket and save your self the trouble you are having. Hope this helps. Also, go to page 7 of the "BRAKE TIME" forum and then scroll down 3 lines to "A2Z disc brake adapter for frames without disc mount, anyone try one"? There is alot of info at this page. Good luck.
    thanks for that it would apear people rate them and dont seem to have any problem which is making me wonder about the frame now

  3. #778
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  4. #779
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    What's holding your the adapter on the top? Mine doesn't look the same as yours where the little machined part butts up against the seatstay. Also, I didn't need to use any shims or washers to bolt mine up.

    My problem was whenever you tried to pull the rear tire off, you'd have to literally spread the rear triangle apart to get it out...the hub axle was too beefy to slip out of the adapters dropouts. Mine didn't have any problems rubbing, like yours. It worked for me but I didn't put on a whole lot of miles on mine. Your rear hub is still in good shape, right?
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Everything Gt Lts-p1013117.jpg  


  5. #780
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    What type of skewer are you using? Is it the lever type that you just bend over to tighten? If it is, why are you running the lever on the drive side of the bike. I am thinking, maybe its the skewer, and you are not tightening it enough, but i would not run it on the drive side. Also, you said something in the begining about the rear pivot. Are you sure you have the pivots set up correctly, with the sleeve between the 2 bushings installed and torqed to 15-20" pounds with blue locktight installed. Just trying to think it out. See how "johntheroadie" has the skewer lever on the non-drive side of the bike.

  6. #781
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    Quote Originally Posted by johntheroadie View Post
    What's holding your the adapter on the top? Mine doesn't look the same as yours where the little machined part butts up against the seatstay. Also, I didn't need to use any shims or washers to bolt mine up.

    My problem was whenever you tried to pull the rear tire off, you'd have to literally spread the rear triangle apart to get it out...the hub axle was too beefy to slip out of the adapters dropouts. Mine didn't have any problems rubbing, like yours. It worked for me but I didn't put on a whole lot of miles on mine. Your rear hub is still in good shape, right?
    you may have somethin there it would apear that am missing a bolt at the top like yours there is one there but its behind the plate at the top if i take it apart i can use that bolt and a washer to clamp it up at the top , the rear seems fine doesnt apear to have any play in the wheel

  7. #782
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    Quote Originally Posted by doralswheels View Post
    What type of skewer are you using? Is it the lever type that you just bend over to tighten? If it is, why are you running the lever on the drive side of the bike. I am thinking, maybe its the skewer, and you are not tightening it enough, but i would not run it on the drive side. Also, you said something in the begining about the rear pivot. Are you sure you have the pivots set up correctly, with the sleeve between the 2 bushings installed and torqed to 15-20" pounds with blue locktight installed. Just trying to think it out. See how "johntheroadie" has the skewer lever on the non-drive side of the bike.
    hi i did have a quick release but with the clamp i founf that a allen key type 12mm axle is better for geting it tighter its exactlt the same as the quick release just no springs and alley key bolts either en

  8. #783
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    Very good choice on the skewer/axle. I hope that missing bolt will solve your problem. My wife's lts worked for over 3 years with the AtoZ adapter, but she finnlley wanted a newer bike, so we bought her a Santa Cruz Julliana. I still have 1 RTS team and 2 LTS's along with about 20 other mountain and 3 road bikes. It is getting crowded in the garage/shop.

  9. #784
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    I wish I could post up a picture of a close up of the bolts I'm talking about, but that I sold that bike to a friend of a friend so that he could get into biking... I still haven't seen him on the trail yet.

    My STS pictured earlier is now a mullet; Disc on the front, V-brake on the rear. If all else fails, you could consider that route. However, I really hope you get it sorted out and let us know how that works out.

    Thanks doralwheels for making me feel better about my addiction. I whittled my collection down to 2 STSs and 3 LTSs. I did pick up about three 29ers... to make up for that loss.

  10. #785
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    Addiction

    Quote Originally Posted by johntheroadie View Post
    I wish I could post up a picture of a close up of the bolts I'm talking about, but that I sold that bike to a friend of a friend so that he could get into biking... I still haven't seen him on the trail yet.

    My STS pictured earlier is now a mullet; Disc on the front, V-brake on the rear. If all else fails, you could consider that route. However, I really hope you get it sorted out and let us know how that works out.

    Thanks doralwheels for making me feel better about my addiction. I whittled my collection down to 2 STSs and 3 LTSs. I did pick up about three 29ers... to make up for that loss.
    John. Sorry, i forgot the GT Zaskar ti hardtail hanging up in the attic. I want to try some 650b wheels on it, but i havn't had time yet. Doral

  11. #786
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    you have a ti Zaskar? freaking sweet man.

  12. #787
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    well today was a instresting day it would apear that the a2z mount is fine its a good piece of enginering that .
    The a2z mount dont move at all , the problems were the frame and using a massive 203mm disc on the back the LTS bless it in 1990,s was out of this world but compared to todays full suspension frames they are miles apart, theres way to much flex in the rear mainly down to the bushes i reckon and many of them.
    The 203mm disc mount and the the caliper bolted on top of that was not helping this flex as there was more liveridge from the longer caliper mount so i have have fitted a 160mm disc and mount and seems to be ok, as the mount sits lower down over the smaller disc so less leveridge but the frame still flexes if you press the rear brake and rock a pedal backwards and forwards have a look at how much flex the lts has its shocking and my bushes are fine but at least i can use disc brakes now

  13. #788
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  14. #789
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    There are some very cool LTS's on here! Keep up the great work everyone!

  15. #790
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    rear suspension

    anybody reconmend a good shock to use on the rear discovered somethin today if you change the bottom bracket height to maxium by turning the trunion adustment down it actailly winds your shock in aswell taking all your travel away so more height you want from the bottom bracket less travel you have so i have my bottom bracket quite low which ant great but am geting good travel at the rear this way but would like a good bottom bracket height without comprising the travel

  16. #791
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    PSA on a clean looking LTS 2000

    Saw this on my local craiglist and thought I would share, looks clean.

    GT LTS 2000 FULL SUSPENSION MOUNTAIN BIKE

  17. #792
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    Quote Originally Posted by morlysafer View Post
    Saw this on my local craiglist and thought I would share, looks clean.
    It absolutely does. Looks like it is all original equipment to me. I think something is said by the fact that there are reflectors on it too. Too bad that frame is so darn small...
    2012 Intense M9
    2012 Pivot Mach 5.7 Carbon
    2008 Look 595
    2007 Custom Litespeed Sewanee

  18. #793
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    I'm still holding out for a 99 model with disc brake tabs or an XR-1000...

    Good looking bike tho'

  19. #794
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    rear disc brake nightmare continues

    well as you probaly would of been reading my previuos post about my rear disc rubing on my pads that i thought i solved how wrong i was
    its still rubing but only when i turn corners agressively it must be the rear end flexing i cant see any play in bushes but theres alot more force involved when your riding has anybody had experience of this is this normal ? how can you normally tell if a bush is gone

  20. #795
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    I suspected my bushings were shot because when I would really *really* get on the power going up a hill, it would actually twist the rear triangle enough to make the rear derailleur ghost shift. Does yours do that? I never noticed any brake rubbing because I ran V-brakes at that time.

    Remove your rear shock. Even though it shouldn't be a lateral load bearing member, it may be trying to hide how much wear your suspension pivots may have. If you can, remove your horst pivot bolts and then check how much play is in each section of the suspension. When I took out the horst pivot bolts and separated my chainstay from the seatstay I found a lot of lateral (left-right) play in my chainstay.

    On a side note, I actually never replaced my horst pivot bushings, I didn't see them causing any problems, but the bushings on the front triangle were the one that were totally shot on mine.

    Rather than try to find bushings, I just upgraded mine to a BETD bearing kit, upper and lower. Pricey, but problem solved. Good luck on finding something wrong!
    Last edited by johntheroadie; 11-22-2012 at 06:54 PM. Reason: typos

  21. #796
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    Quote Originally Posted by johntheroadie View Post
    I suspected my bushings were shot because when I would really *really* get on the power going up a hill, it would actually twist the rear triangle enough to make the rear derailleur ghost shift. Does yours do that? I never noticed any brake rubbing because I ran V-brakes at that time.

    Remove your rear shock. Even though it shouldn't be a lateral load bearing member, it may be trying to hide how much wear your suspension pivots may have. If you can, remove your horst pivot bolts and then check how much play is in each section of the suspension. When I took out the horst pivot bolts and separated my chainstay from the seatstay I found a lot of lateral (left-right) play in my chainstay.

    On a side note, I actually never replaced my horst pivot bushings, I didn't see them causing any problems, but the bushings on the front triangle were the one that were totally shot on mine.

    Rather than try to find bushings, I just upgraded mine to a BETD bearing kit, upper and lower. Pricey, but problem solved. Good luck on finding something wrong!
    hi thanks for the reply yeah if the bushing have gone i would get the betd ones but i dont want to do that only to find the frame just flexes anyway and there is nothing you can do about it meaning you can never use disc brakes on the back without them catching thats why i was asking if anyone runs disc brakes on the back with no problems using a a2z mount i could never go back to v brakes now love lts last thing i want to do is get another frame but if i cant stop brake rubing nightmare

  22. #797
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    a2z mount anybody use all the time

    hi does anybody use the a2z mount permantly on any lts if so do they have any problems like brake rubbing and mount moving

  23. #798
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    I have a 1997 GT LTS-1 that I have been using an A2Z DM-UNI adapter on for about two years. I have not had any trouble with the adapter at all, and have really enjoyed having disc brakes instead of v-brakes.

    I have only used a 160 mm rotor with mechanical disc calipers. I don't see any reason to upsize the rotor in the rear of the bike. I am going to change out the 160 on the front of my bike to a 180 to get better braking, but that doesn't have anything to do with the A2Z adapter. Most braking force is in the front anyway, so a larger diameter disc in the rear is overkill as far as I am concerned, and if it causes more lateral force on the whole setup it is probably a good idea to stick with what I have.

    I am a larger rider (6' 1.5" @ 255 lbs) so I put a lot of force on the rear of the bike. I have felt flex, but I think that is inherent in the design. I have the complete BETD bearing kit, and that eliminated some flex, but not all of it. Just something I have learned to live with. With the flex I have not noticed any rubbing of the disc, so I do not think the flex is based on the Horst link at the dropout, near the adapter. I think it is at the bottom bracket pivot, so the disc stays tracking pretty square.

    The adapter has stayed in place just fine. I have checked the torque of the bolts (the A2Z instruction sheet sucks, by the way) periodically and have found them tight. The blue Locktite I used may have helped in that. The only time anything was out of sorts was after the initial install I had difficulty with removing/installing the wheel. Another poster made a comment on how difficult it was to get the wheel in and out of the dropouts when using this adapter. I loosened up the bolts a few times and fine tuned the position of everything until I found a "sweet spot" where the wheel would move the best and still have the adapter in the correct position. Clamped everything down to torque spec and it has all been great. It does take a little bit of spreading to get the wheel out and in, but a good whack on the top of the wheel will get it to drop out, then I hold the rear of the triangle give a bit of a spread apart when dropping the frame down into the wheel, goes in just fine.

    I did have to readjust the position of the adapter when I changed my top pivot and Horst link pivots from the bushings to the BETD bearings. Everything in the rear triangle moved around during that install, and the adapter needed to be fine-tuned in position again. No problems since then.

    My photos of the adapter are here: Keeping a weather eye on the horizon: Equipment Review: A2Z DM-UNI Disc Brake Adaptor I wrote that up after a little less than a year with the adapter in place.
    "You're messing with my zen thing, man!"

  24. #799
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bokchoicowboy View Post
    I have a 1997 GT LTS-1 that I have been using an A2Z DM-UNI adapter on for about two years. I have not had any trouble with the adapter at all, and have really enjoyed having disc brakes instead of v-brakes.

    I have only used a 160 mm rotor with mechanical disc calipers. I don't see any reason to upsize the rotor in the rear of the bike. I am going to change out the 160 on the front of my bike to a 180 to get better braking, but that doesn't have anything to do with the A2Z adapter. Most braking force is in the front anyway, so a larger diameter disc in the rear is overkill as far as I am concerned, and if it causes more lateral force on the whole setup it is probably a good idea to stick with what I have.

    I am a larger rider (6' 1.5" @ 255 lbs) so I put a lot of force on the rear of the bike. I have felt flex, but I think that is inherent in the design. I have the complete BETD bearing kit, and that eliminated some flex, but not all of it. Just something I have learned to live with. With the flex I have not noticed any rubbing of the disc, so I do not think the flex is based on the Horst link at the dropout, near the adapter. I think it is at the bottom bracket pivot, so the disc stays tracking pretty square.

    The adapter has stayed in place just fine. I have checked the torque of the bolts (the A2Z instruction sheet sucks, by the way) periodically and have found them tight. The blue Locktite I used may have helped in that. The only time anything was out of sorts was after the initial install I had difficulty with removing/installing the wheel. Another poster made a comment on how difficult it was to get the wheel in and out of the dropouts when using this adapter. I loosened up the bolts a few times and fine tuned the position of everything until I found a "sweet spot" where the wheel would move the best and still have the adapter in the correct position. Clamped everything down to torque spec and it has all been great. It does take a little bit of spreading to get the wheel out and in, but a good whack on the top of the wheel will get it to drop out, then I hold the rear of the triangle give a bit of a spread apart when dropping the frame down into the wheel, goes in just fine.

    I did have to readjust the position of the adapter when I changed my top pivot and Horst link pivots from the bushings to the BETD bearings. Everything in the rear triangle moved around during that install, and the adapter needed to be fine-tuned in position again. No problems since then.

    My photos of the adapter are here: Keeping a weather eye on the horizon: Equipment Review: A2Z DM-UNI Disc Brake Adaptor I wrote that up after a little less than a year with the adapter in place.
    hi thanks for the reply so theres hope for me yet then well i have replaced the horst link bushes and also droped to a 160mm disc the rubbing is not as bad and i only notice it when i turn handle bars or go round corners other wise it dont rub.
    Must be to do with the bushes, am i right in thinking your sugesting it would be worth changing the bottom bracket pivot bushes ? one thing i have noticed is if i hold the rear brake very tight and rock the left pedal with my foot and can see lower arm move geting closer to the tyre not sure if thats normal but would certainly cause disc to rub i would think

  25. #800
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    Quote Originally Posted by savie62 View Post
    hi thanks for the reply so theres hope for me yet then well i have replaced the horst link bushes and also droped to a 160mm disc the rubbing is not as bad and i only notice it when i turn handle bars or go round corners other wise it dont rub.
    Must be to do with the bushes, am i right in thinking your sugesting it would be worth changing the bottom bracket pivot bushes ? one thing i have noticed is if i hold the rear brake very tight and rock the left pedal with my foot and can see lower arm move geting closer to the tyre not sure if thats normal but would certainly cause disc to rub i would think
    If you can see the movement that clearly, then the bushings are probably really slack and need to be replaced very soon. When I got my LTS frame, the bushings were worst at the bottom bracket pivot and the rear of the link behind the trunion mount. There was a lot of slop, lot of movement laterally. Replacing the bottom bracket pivot with a bearing tightened things up immensely. I think you will see your trouble diminish or go away altogether if you get the bearing at least for that same pivot.
    "You're messing with my zen thing, man!"

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