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  1. #1
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    95 gt upgrade or not?

    Hi. I took my 95 GT Rebound, 3140 cromoly frame, Altus/Acera stuff from the garage and have been riding some light but long trails. I was intending to make an upgrade, basically a better fork (instead of the old Quadra 5) and safer v-brakes. Then I went to my LBS and he told me to keep my GT the way it is and make an investment on a new bike. Any opinions/suggestions, please?

  2. #2
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    I would just buy a newer bike. The money you're going to put into the GT could go toward a bike with newer components, disc brake tabs, modern geometry and better suspension right from the start. With a newer bike, you'll be spending more time on the trails and less time wrenching and searching for parts.

    That is, of course, if you don't have some really fond memories of hammering with the old girl. That's the only reason why I still ride my ancient GT's.

    john

  3. #3
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    Quote Originally Posted by johntheroadie
    That is, of course, if you don't have some really fond memories of hammering with the old girl. That's the only reason why I still ride my ancient GT's.
    john
    Feelings... that's a big part of it. My idea was to upgrade my GT having it confortable for "small" stuff and then complement my "collection" with a full suspension (as soon as I get cashed).
    Last edited by blue gt; 08-22-2008 at 12:40 PM.

  4. #4
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    If your old GT is still in good shape, save your money from the upgrades and you'll be able to get your full susser sooner and still keep the old girl for those cool easy going rides.

  5. #5
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    If you enjoy riding it that much, you could go ahead and upgrade the fork and brakes for the time being, just be forewarned, you may fall into a vicious cycle of "upgradeitus". Buy a set of V-brakes and you'll have to buy the brake levers too, since V-brakes require more cable pull than the older cantilever brake levers can provide, but if you do your own wrenching, you could get it done for less than $75. (But your frame can handle V's, right? no funky U-brake arches on it?) If you do that, go ahead and replace all the cables and housings...you'd be surprise how much a bike will sharpen up with just some new cables.

    But a fork may be a more difficult choice; Back in "the day", I believe the max travel that a hardtail at that time could tolerate was 63-70mm. 80mm was considered long travel at that time and factories only spec'd them them on full suspension bikes. I don't know if there are hardly any of the shorter travel forks left being made currently...I think they're mostly either 80mm or greater. I guess you could run a longer travel fork, but I remember bike mags cautioning riders to keep the travel under that for a hardtail, lest ye be afflicted with a broken frame.

    I'm not sure if you have a 1 1/8 inch headset, but if your bike only has a 1" headset, decent forks are virtually impossible to find. If that's the case, a new bike is really the only way to go. Also, if you have a threaded headset, you'll probably have to go with threadless headset(see?? upgradeitus!).

    You can do whatever you want to, but it's really easy to spend a pile of money that could go toward a newer bike in a very short amount of time (I done this too many times to count ). Just weigh your options carefully and don't hesitate to ask questions. Just remember, new bikes make great memories too....

  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by johntheroadie
    You can do whatever you want to, but it's really easy to spend a pile of money that could go toward a newer bike in a very short amount of time (I done this too many times to count ). Just weigh your options carefully and don't hesitate to ask questions. Just remember, new bikes make great memories too....
    Thank you, John, got the point. Just gonna change my brake pads and look for a new bike!

  7. #7
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    Just wondering, my crankset is a 24-32-38 Shimano Altus. Can something "strange" happen if I replace it with a 22-32-42 new one?

  8. #8
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    I doubt that something "strange" will happen. You'll be taking away two teeth on the granny and adding teeth to the big ring so you'll probably find that your bike will be geared lower when you're in the granny (mo' stump-pullin' power) and overgeared in the big ring (faster, but harder to pedal). The middle chainring will not change. You may or may not have to reposition the front derailleur for optimum shifting, though...

    As long as you have a long cage rear derailleur, I think you should be fine (but you may want to wait for a second opinion...). I ran into problem with my fisher running a larger crankset, but that's only because it had a medium cage derailleur. I had to ditch the medium cage and buy a long cage to get my crankset to work.

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    Thanks again, John!
    I'll visit my LBS and ask about the derailleur/crankset matter.
    Also thinking about buying a new set of wheels to "match" my new brake pads.

    Probably "upgradeitus"?

  10. #10
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    Yup, that's the early symptoms of it. The next stages are; reading all of the mountain bike magazines, memorizing the urls to all of your favorite bicycle part outlets, and working at the local bike shops without even being paid.

    On the plus side, pretty soon you'll have enough parts to build up another bike!

  11. #11
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    Too late. I've applied for a job at a nearby bike shop... Tips are welcomed!
    Last edited by blue gt; 08-31-2008 at 03:22 PM.

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