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  1. #1
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    Post up your 1x drivetrains

    I converted my standard Shimano double setup over to "ghetto" 1x:

    Wolf Tooth 42t n/w ring
    Shimano Ultegra short cage 11-spd r. der (set the spring to the tighter setting)
    Shimano XT 11-40 11-spd cassette
    Praxxis Works chain guide
    Wolf Tooth Road Link

    Works great but looking forward to picking up the new Ulegra RX clutched r. der for extra chain retention when it comes out soon.

    My next bike will probably have Sram 1x with a 42/10-42 which I think would be a *little* better range than I have now plus the superior 1x technology. Just have to get used to the double tap.
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  2. #2
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    i have rival 22 shifters + apex1 derailleur + e-thirteen 9-44 cassette + sram s2200 crankarms + doval 34t oval chainring

  3. #3
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    Mine is all apex1 42t/11-42 in the back. I do ok with that setp up, although not fancy.

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  4. #4
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    Rival 1 hydro with 42 up front and 11-42 rear (NX cassette I think).

    Excellent on the road, though I could use a little more high gear if I am out with guys on full blown road bikes.

    Perfect on dirt paths.

    A bit over geared on gravel/single tracks.

  5. #5
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    which tires do you use? i use 34t chainring but with 29x2.10 tires

  6. #6
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    38c triggers, but probably swapping to resolute 42s

  7. #7
    The Top Cap Guy
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    ok I am swapping a 2x compact Rival 22 group to a gravel bike - I bought a Sram 1x 42t front ring, and looking at rear derailleurs.. I see in the Rival line there are type 2.1 and now the newest 3.0 - and I cannot find out the differences in the versions... I am pretty sure the cage length has nothing to do with it as both cages are available in the 3.0 version...

    Thanks in advance
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  8. #8
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    No difference outside, just the torx screw on the clutch.

    Sram says it provides a "smoother torque curve for a quieter, more consistent operation and feel".

    Mine is type 2.1, and has been flawless. My wife's Apex 1 is type 3, and has also been flawless.

  9. #9
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    Mine's a cross bike I use for the odd gravel ride/race. Rival 1 with 38/11-32. Chainring is Raceface, brakes are Spyres, everything else is Rival. I think a bit more range on each end (40/11-36, maybe) might be a better match for the gravel riding I do, but I don't need that kinda range for CX and I haven't felt like spending the money yet.

  10. #10
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    Rival 1 shifters/brakes, Rival 1 derailleur, Easton EC90 crank with 44T chainring. Switching to AB oval 42T ring, shortly. KMC X11SL chain.


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  11. #11
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    Chorus 11 with a 40t Wolf Tooth chainring on an Ultegra crankset. Cassette is a custom 14-34 Ultegra. Shifter and derailler are Chorus with Hope jockey wheels.

    It might be a 38t in the pic and I may have a Roadlink on, but it wasn't necessary so I removed it.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Post up your 1x drivetrains-32783365_10155614585983358_2472850089509388288_o.jpg  

    You change your own flats? Support your LBS and pay them to instead.

  12. #12
    I like turtles
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    Mine

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  13. #13
    The Top Cap Guy
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    Ok thanks for the answers... one other quick question... I am running DT240 hubs and if I get a XD driver for them I can run one of the bigger cassettes like a 10-42 with the rival 1 long cage stuff right - the derailleur can handle a 42 - is the XD the only way to get those big gears and still have a 10t? or is it even worth the 10 if I have a 11t now.

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  14. #14
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    As far as I know, the XD driver is necessary to get the 10t at all, regardless of big cog size. There are some non-XD cassettes with 42t+ big cogs with 11t small cogs.

  15. #15
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    You will need the XD driver and end cap to run a 10t.

    Is it worth it? Thats up to you. If you have enough low gear and don't top out the high end, then no, its not.

    A 42t with an 11-42 has the same high gear as a 38t with 10-42, and you get a lower gear.

    Or you can split the difference and run a 40t and gain on each end.

    The difference between 10 and 11 is quite a bit.

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  16. #16
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    I don't need anymore high end with a 11-40 and a 42....could do a 11-42 to get a little more low end. I do think the 10 gives you a little more range but certainly not a deal breaker.
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  17. #17
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    It is more range, quite a bit, but if you don't need it, there's no point.

    It's an expensive upgrade, the XD driver and end cap is over $100 for a DT hub, and any of the decently light weight cassettes are over $200.

  18. #18
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    Name:  1198031d1526304700t-tideace-29er-monstercross-build-img-20180512-wa0069.jpg
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    rival 22 shifter

    apex1 rear dear

    e13 9-44 cassete

    34t doval chainring

  19. #19
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    Iím runnng SRAM Red shifters, Force 1 rear derailleur, crank is Praxis carbon (38) and the cassette is an e13 (9-46).

  20. #20
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    Quote Originally Posted by TiGeo View Post
    I don't need anymore high end with a 11-40 and a 42....could do a 11-42 to get a little more low end. I do think the 10 gives you a little more range but certainly not a deal breaker.
    Its 10% more. So you can run a 40 and its like a 44 with an 11t.




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  21. #21
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    Uphrade to Force 1 hydros complete. Went with a Sunrace 11-42 and kept my Wolf Tooth 42 ring. Kept the Praxis Works guide. Works flawlessly and much better chain retention.

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  22. #22
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    Similar to OP's setup, 46t wolftooth front, 11-4X(6?) XT rear, 105 der, and a roadlink. Only a few rides, and haven't done enough climbing to determine if it'll work as is long term.

    Switched back to eggbeaters, and an 80mm stem, otherwise ride as pictured. Still figuring stuff out though!

    Post up your 1x drivetrains-img_0995.jpg
    Post up your 1x drivetrains-img_0994.jpg
    Post up your 1x drivetrains-img_0993.jpg

  23. #23
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    1x14
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Post up your 1x drivetrains-dscn3285.jpg  

    Tread killer....

  24. #24
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    Quote Originally Posted by TiGeo View Post
    Uphrade to Force 1 hydros complete. Went with a Sunrace 11-42 and kept my Wolf Tooth 42 ring. Kept the Praxis Works guide. Works flawlessly and much better chain retention.

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  25. #25
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    Quote Originally Posted by garcia View Post
    Similar to OP's setup, 46t wolftooth front, 11-4X(6?) XT rear, 105 der, and a roadlink. Only a few rides, and haven't done enough climbing to determine if it'll work as is long term.

    Switched back to eggbeaters, and an 80mm stem, otherwise ride as pictured. Still figuring stuff out though!

    Click image for larger version. 

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    Click image for larger version. 

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    Very nice!

  26. #26
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    Post up your 1x drivetrains-9ea36901-493c-4a12-9f4d-83ab58cbefc9.jpg

    SRAM Red levers and brakes, Praxis carbon crank, SRAM Rival rear derailleur and E13 cassette (9-46)

  27. #27
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    10 speed:-
    Red shifters
    JuinTech calipers
    Jagwire cables/housing
    Red crank
    Wolftooth 38t
    XO short-cage 2.1
    1080 11-36

  28. #28
    z1r
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    So, I just sold my cross bike tha had a 1x10 drivetrain consisting of a clutched Shimano SLX rear derailleur and Microshift thumbshifter. It was fitted fitted with straight bars:Post up your 1x drivetrains-9u1rs24h.jpg

    It was bombproof and economical. I ran a 38 tooth front ring and 11x36 cassette.

    I recently discovered that the frame on my commuter bike, an old custom CX bike, was cracked. So, I decided to build up a Macho Man frame I had. Well, someone suggested I contact the builder, I did, and he said send him the frame.

    So, assuming it is repairable and I get it back, I was thinking of building it as a 1x10 instead of the 3x10 it was. I'd like to keep it as inexpensive as possible since I have already dumped most of my "fun" money into the Macho Man build. I also like the clutched derailleur. So, I'd have to replace my derailleur and shifters at a minimum since the Shimano MTB derailleur won't work with 10 spd road shifters. I could stick with bar end shifters if I picked up a set of Microshift bar end shifters. They make a set that works with Shimano MTB derailleurs.

    Or, I could switch to SRAM. My other two Gravel/Cross bikes have SRAM drivetrains. One has a Rival 22 Hydro setup and I love the shifting and brakes but hate the feel of the hoods. Not comfortable for me. The other has a 2x10 Apex setup and while it has mechanical discs, the hoods feel much more comfortable. Since my commuter is out of commission I have been riding my "road" bike that has a 2x10 Shimano 105 drivetrain. Riding it daily for the last two weeks I have discovered just how much more comfortable the Shimano brifters are for me.

    It sort of makes sense to try to go the SRAM route since the majority of my gravel/cross bikes are already SRAM equipped. And, I can get a brake only left lever and 10 speed right lever.

    Looking for suggestions since I'm having a hard time deciding for myself. Too bad the Shiano 105 brifters don't play well with the clutched 10 speed derailleurs.

  29. #29
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    SRAM Rival 40T up front.

    Wolftooth 20T out back.

    Stopping is provided by TRP Hylex.

    Post up your 1x drivetrains-14233027_10154482311934291_2858376979452597215_n.jpg
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  30. #30
    Bicycles aren't motorized
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    Quote Originally Posted by z1r View Post
    So, I just sold my cross bike tha had a 1x10 drivetrain consisting of a clutched Shimano SLX rear derailleur and Microshift thumbshifter. It was fitted fitted with straight bars:Click image for larger version. 

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    It was bombproof and economical. I ran a 38 tooth front ring and 11x36 cassette.

    I recently discovered that the frame on my commuter bike, an old custom CX bike, was cracked. So, I decided to build up a Macho Man frame I had. Well, someone suggested I contact the builder, I did, and he said send him the frame.

    So, assuming it is repairable and I get it back, I was thinking of building it as a 1x10 instead of the 3x10 it was. I'd like to keep it as inexpensive as possible since I have already dumped most of my "fun" money into the Macho Man build. I also like the clutched derailleur. So, I'd have to replace my derailleur and shifters at a minimum since the Shimano MTB derailleur won't work with 10 spd road shifters. I could stick with bar end shifters if I picked up a set of Microshift bar end shifters. They make a set that works with Shimano MTB derailleurs.

    Or, I could switch to SRAM. My other two Gravel/Cross bikes have SRAM drivetrains. One has a Rival 22 Hydro setup and I love the shifting and brakes but hate the feel of the hoods. Not comfortable for me. The other has a 2x10 Apex setup and while it has mechanical discs, the hoods feel much more comfortable. Since my commuter is out of commission I have been riding my "road" bike that has a 2x10 Shimano 105 drivetrain. Riding it daily for the last two weeks I have discovered just how much more comfortable the Shimano brifters are for me.

    It sort of makes sense to try to go the SRAM route since the majority of my gravel/cross bikes are already SRAM equipped. And, I can get a brake only left lever and 10 speed right lever.

    Looking for suggestions since I'm having a hard time deciding for myself. Too bad the Shiano 105 brifters don't play well with the clutched 10 speed derailleurs.




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  31. #31
    z1r
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    That was the setup I was running. Actually, it was a 1997 vintage XT 8 speed derailleur.
    Worked like a champ with both my 7 speed and 10 speed shifters. But I'd really like to run a clutched derailleur and as far as I know, they don't make on for a 9 speed. If it gets too complicated or expensive I may just buy a set of 105 Brifters and stick my spare XT derailleur on; I bought two in 1997, lol.

  32. #32
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    Quote Originally Posted by z1r View Post
    That was the setup I was running. Actually, it was a 1997 vintage XT 8 speed derailleur.
    Worked like a champ with both my 7 speed and 10 speed shifters. But I'd really like to run a clutched derailleur and as far as I know, they don't make on for a 9 speed. If it gets too complicated or expensive I may just buy a set of 105 Brifters and stick my spare XT derailleur on; I bought two in 1997, lol.
    You could get a Gevenalle rear derailleur in you flavor of choice (8/9/10 or 11). They have a stiffer/tighter(?) spring than normal and pair up nicely with a NW ring.
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  33. #33
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    Here's my setup on my TKO:

    Ultegra 6800 Crank
    Wolftooth 36t chainring
    XTR M9001 cassette 11-40t
    XTR chain
    Ultegra RX rear derailleur
    Shimano Brifters (R685 I think?)

    Post up your 1x drivetrains-vassago-dt.jpg

  34. #34
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    SRAM 10-42 with a Force mech, standard stuff, a bit different at the front as I'm running a Middleburn crank and 36 tooth narrow/wide Middleburn ring.

    Cutthroat 1 by mapledocumentdesign, on Flickr

  35. #35
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    Post up your 1x drivetrains-1x-drivetrain.jpg

    • SRAM Force 1 type 3 long cage derailleur
    • Force 1 cranks
    • XTR pedals
    • Absolute Black oval chain ring, 38t
    • KMC X11SL Ti-N chain
    • Sunrace CSMS8 EAX, 11-40, 11-speed cassette
    • Wheels Mfg. bottom bracket
    • White Ind. XMR hubs

  36. #36
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    SRAM GX long cage derailleur
    Sunrace 10/42 casete 10 speed
    Absolute Black 42 oval chainring
    SRAM force carbon brakes/shifter 10 speed
    TRP hydro, cable actuated brakes
    SRAM force carbon cranks


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  37. #37
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    Post up your 1x drivetrains

    Is everyone using a chain guide with the 1x setup?

  38. #38
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    Quote Originally Posted by j102 View Post
    Is everyone using a chain guide with the 1x setup?
    Nope. With a good dropless style chainring a clutch style derailleur you don't need one.

  39. #39
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    Quote Originally Posted by AZ Stumpy View Post
    Nope. With a good dropless style chainring a clutch style derailleur you don't need one.
    A cluch derailleur helps, but I thought people would still use a chain guide for the extra security.

  40. #40
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    Here's the setup on my Vault:

    Ultegra 6800 Crank
    Wolftooth 40t chainring
    XX1 cassette 10-42t
    XTR chain
    XTR Di2 RD-9050 long cage derailleur
    Shimano Di2 Brifters ST-R785

    Post up your 1x drivetrains-vault-dt.jpg

  41. #41
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    I dont have a clutch der. So far zero chain drop, even under pressure.

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  42. #42
    I like turtles
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    Quote Originally Posted by j102 View Post
    Is everyone using a chain guide with the 1x setup?
    I have Sram Force 1 which includes a clutch r. der. and a n/w ring...I still run a guide just because.
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  43. #43
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    Quote Originally Posted by Cheshire Cat View Post
    SRAM 10-42 with a Force mech, standard stuff, a bit different at the front as I'm running a Middleburn crank and 36 tooth narrow/wide Middleburn ring.

    Cutthroat 1 by mapledocumentdesign, on Flickr
    Nice!

  44. #44
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    Post up your 1x drivetrains

    Quote Originally Posted by TiGeo View Post
    I have Sram Force 1 which includes a clutch r. der. and a n/w ring...I still run a guide just because.
    If I change mine to a 1x, I would run a chain guide.

  45. #45
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    Curious how much climbing folks are doing with single ring set ups? I'm doing quite a bit of climbing - some steep and some gradual. Also mixing in some jeep roads and mellow singletrack. I've got a gravel ride coming up where I'll be doing 7k ft of vert. over 60 miles. Thinking about switching to a 36t front ring with my 10-40 10 speed cassette. Input is welcome.
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  46. #46
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    It sounds siginificantly more enjoyable than the punchy stuff I just did with 42/32 as my lowest option (loaded with bikepacking goodies too).

    Iím hesitant to say ďoh, youíll be fineĒ but it sounds well within the range of doable.
    Having such a big spread might be annoying, but is anything ever really ideal???

  47. #47
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    Quote Originally Posted by Chippertheripper View Post
    It sounds siginificantly more enjoyable than the punchy stuff I just did with 42/32 as my lowest option (loaded with bikepacking goodies too).

    Iím hesitant to say ďoh, youíll be fineĒ but it sounds well within the range of doable.
    Having such a big spread might be annoying, but is anything ever really ideal???
    Yeah, no combo is perfect for everything. I'm running a 32t now and its just not enough for the flats and descents but I can breeze up the steepest hills. I ordered a 34t and a 36t and I'll have to see which is the happy medium.
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  48. #48
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    Shimano 685 11 speed brake/shifters, Wolftooth Tanpan SH11 so I can use an MTB 10 speed clutch mech, One Industries Rad Cage on the Zee mech to clear the cogs.
    It's a bit dodgy on the 40t, so I think I'll be using it as a 10 speed 11-35 cassette with a 40t spoke protector.
    May even go from the 36t front to a 34t which will let me move the chainline in a couple of mm.
    I don't do high speed stuff, so top end isn't so important.
    Post up your 1x drivetrains-20180901_104840.jpg Post up your 1x drivetrains-20180901_105255.jpg

  49. #49
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    Post up your 1x drivetrains-img_6138.jpg

    Rotor 3D cranks
    Rotor 38T CX-1 Q-Ring
    11-34T XT cassette
    Force 1 rear mech
    SRAM chain

    Silent and low maintenance

  50. #50
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    SRAM 1x11

    Force long cage rear deraileur
    Force crank, 170mm
    Force 11sp rear shifter
    KMC x11sl chain
    Wolf Tooth 38t oval ring
    SRAM 10-42 xg-1195 cassette

  51. #51
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    I finally settled on a functional 1x gravel set up after screwing around with some different chainrings and cassettes:

    SRAM GX 10 speed rear derailleur
    Sunrace 10-40 10 speed cassette
    SRAM Apex shifter/brake levers
    KMC 10 speed chain
    Race Face Turbine Cranks
    Race Face N/W 36t ring
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    2013 Transition TransAM 29er
    2017 Motobecane Lurch FS 26 fat

  52. #52
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    I have mine set up so that I can alternate between gravel/singletrack and road setups pretty easily. The bike (Ibis Hakka MX) is set up with Rival 1 RD/shifters/brakes

    Road/Mixed terrain:
    40t Praxis N/W chainring
    10/42 11spd cassette
    700c/28 or 700c/40 carbon wheels/tires

    Gravel/Singletrack:
    38t Praxis N/W chainring
    11/42 cassette
    650b/2.1 alloy wheels/tires

    Basically a simple wheel swap and a quick chainring change provides me the flexibility and cost savings of only having a single bike.

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