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  1. #1
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    XTC Composite 29er build ?s

    I was planning on pulling the trigger on an XTC Composite 29'er frameset large at the end of the model year/end of summer for my first 29er build this winter. I talked to my LBS and they told me not to wait on ordering the frame as they are going fast and getting harder to get. I'm not really ready (financially) but if I have to pull the trigger I have a few questions.

    What did folks pay OTD for your frame?
    Which model Chris King or Cane Creek headset fits?
    Looks like it needs a BB86 bottom bracket...only one choice (shimano) if I want to go with an XT crankset?
    What fork did you go with and has anyone tried a 120mm fork?

    Any info you can share about your builds would be greatly appreciated!
    Last edited by fireroad; 03-07-2012 at 09:08 PM.

  2. #2
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    IMO you should just buy the complete bike.
    You can get a very good deal on a "1" and the spec is quite good...

  3. #3
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    What would be considered a good deal? Don't know if my lbs (closest giant dealer 2 hrs away) can keep them in stock long enough for me to get down there and haggle.Plus that god awful neon yellow irks me for some reason. Strongly considered a "0", wish I could find a demo.

    Decided to build one up as I have found that over that I spend to much money on upgrades and fine tuning the fit, would just be better/cheaper to start from scratch.I am patient and wait to pick up parts at really good deals.

  4. #4
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    I bought a 2012 0 in late Sept. for $2700. You will not get a deal on the frame alone. There is no room for a LBS to deal on frame only. The problem now is MTB season is coming back. When I bought mine, I live in Mi, the season was ending. They wanted to get rid of their stock.

    If you have parts better than what would be on the full bike, buy the frame. If you have these parts and feel confident selling off parts from a complete bike, buy the complete bike. You will probably save in the end selling off the parts on the complete bike as opposed to just buying the frame. I am in the process of selling the parts of my 0.

    If you buy the frame. I believe the headset is included. Certainly no reason to buy a King. The FSA is more than adequate.

    The BB is a PF BB91/92 not an 86. Shimano is still basically your only option. You might be able to use an 86 because with the composite frame, you don't need the spacer that connects the two bearing cups. This is because the BB shell is sealed, so no water comes in from any of the other tubes leading into the BB shell. Saves some grams too.

  5. #5
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    Yeah, I'm have second thoughts about building a XTC 29er...at least from scratch. Now I'm leaning towards getting a used Alum "1" and making sure I'm totally in love with the bike first before I drop the money on a carbon version. Figure I'll get "1" set up just right for me and if it's the right fit invest in a carbon frameset down the road and swap frames. I did that with my 26er Stumpjumper HT and couldn't be happier. I've never been a big fan of aluminum, but I've never owned a newer Giant either and I'm get the impression that aluminum has come a long way in the last 10 years (alot less "harsh").

    Anyone know what has changed about the XTC 29er aluminum frames form the 2010 through 2012 models?

  6. #6
    Fragglepuss The Chaste
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    The 2012 XTC Composite 29'er frame is pretty freakin' mantastic IMO. I built one up from the frame only option and it gets a lot of attention even in our DH oriented shop when I have it sitting out on the floor.
    We even had a guy who does some carbon work/analysis type stuff for Ibis come into the shop and he was geeking out on how well the layup on the frame turned out.

    Ride quality is pretty freakin' amazing for a hardtail and the fit is spot on for a guy 6'4" tall in the XL sizeway. This is my 5th 29'er and 4th hardtail 29'er and can't see myself going back to an aluminum or even steel frame, unless I want to try and fuse my spine.

    BTW-Giant's frame-only options come with headsets and a seat collar. This frame uses an odd 34mm collar, but the one Giant supplies with the frame is actually super clean and I have yet to have any seat post slippage with a light coat of Fiber Paste.

    As far as BB's go: if you have older cranks or the new Shimano 10 speed stuff, you'll need to use the Shimano PressFit option. If you've got a newer 10 speed SRAM/TruVativ crankset there is a good chance it is tapered and you'll need the TruVativ specific PressFit BB. Leave it to SRAM to screw another good thing up *sigh*.

    Yet another excuse to post up these photos *yawn*.



    This sticker always gets a second glance followed by a slightly confused look until it finally hits them. Most mountain bikers tend to be a little slow.


  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by slcrockymountainrider View Post
    but the one Giant supplies with the frame is actually super clean and I have yet to have any seat post slippage with a light coat of Fiber Paste.
    +1 on the two bolt seat collar. I installed it without paste, torqued both bolts to 5 Nm, no issue on slipping, cracking or any noises.

    I've gotten a stock XTC 1 Composite due to price difference for frame alone and done a few parts modifications.

    This bike rides like a dream and is built like a tank.

  8. #8
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    brake line hose lenght

    Hi Guys
    Im about to purchase some XTR trail brakes for my XTC composite build and need to check the hose lenght required. Ive got a Fox Talas 95-120 fork so Im thinking 40mm longer than those required for a 26er?
    Any help much appreciated.
    Cheers Jeff

  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by jeffzx12 View Post
    Hi Guys
    Im about to purchase some XTR trail brakes for my XTC composite build and need to check the hose lenght required. Ive got a Fox Talas 95-120 fork so Im thinking 40mm longer than those required for a 26er?
    Any help much appreciated.
    Cheers Jeff
    If your buying them new, it shouldn't matter. The line should be plenty long enough, and you'll probably want to make it shorter.
    Bar width and where you have the lever mounted will have a factor in how long the hose should be. I run a 600mm bar and my hose will be shorter than someone running a 700mm bar.

    With that said, I run a 100mm fork and my hose is roughly 655mm(65.5cm)

  10. #10
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    Thanks Mucky. They come with lines 900mm front nd 1400mm rear so they do look long enough if not too long.That said its an XL frame so better to be safe.
    Thanks for your help

  11. #11
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    Does anyone know if i can run a XT 3x10 setup on the xtc composite 29er? I was told no by my LBS,,,,

  12. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by ddaigle711 View Post
    Does anyone know if i can run a XT 3x10 setup on the xtc composite 29er? I was told no by my LBS,,,,
    I'll check for ya. Give me a little bit of time. Wife has an XT triple on her Rockhopper.

  13. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by ddaigle711 View Post
    Does anyone know if i can run a XT 3x10 setup on the xtc composite 29er? I was told no by my LBS,,,,
    It fits, but it's a REALLY close fit. The inner ring has decent clearance at the chainstay. The problem is the inner ring's mounting tabs circle the BB shell. There is literally 1-2mm of clearance. It clears thought, and it doesn't ever move. So if it were me, I would use it. The is a little bit of the mounting tabs that could be ground down to give more clearance. That's what I would do, but that's me.

    Good luck

    P.S. Yet another instance where the LBS doesn't know what they are talking about.

  14. #14
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    Quote Originally Posted by ddaigle711 View Post
    Does anyone know if i can run a XT 3x10 setup on the xtc composite 29er? I was told no by my LBS,,,,
    I

    I've been running Xt and SLX 9 speed triple crankests (as double withut outer ring) without any issues. Third ring of course will not get in the way, so your LBS was wrong.

    And I can report that the ghetto Shimano double works better than the X7 double, chainline is better placed, and better shifting, on any combo (tried 22, 24, 26 -> 36)

  15. #15
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    Quote Originally Posted by slcrockymountainrider View Post
    The 2012 XTC Composite 29'er frame is pretty freakin' mantastic IMO...
    How is the shifter cable routing serving you? I see you went on the inside line - I am thinking the same due to fork lock out - cable interference.

    Will the cables be torn out in case of bar spinning 180 degrees (fall) ?

  16. #16
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    So, if you wanted to run a "normal" 1-1/8" to 1.5" tapered fork on a Giant, what do you do? The upper bearing is 1-1/4"; what reducers are available?

    I've acquired one of the ebay Carbon frames and would eventually like to swap everything I'm using to build that up over to an XtC Composite frame.

  17. #17
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    Quote Originally Posted by fireroad View Post
    Yeah, I'm have second thoughts about building a XTC 29er...at least from scratch. Now I'm leaning towards getting a used Alum "1" and making sure I'm totally in love with the bike first before I drop the money on a carbon version. Figure I'll get "1" set up just right for me and if it's the right fit invest in a carbon frameset down the road and swap frames. I did that with my 26er Stumpjumper HT and couldn't be happier. I've never been a big fan of aluminum, but I've never owned a newer Giant either and I'm get the impression that aluminum has come a long way in the last 10 years (alot less "harsh").

    Anyone know what has changed about the XTC 29er aluminum frames form the 2010 through 2012 models?
    I ride a 2012 29er 1 Alum (large) and love it. It's fast, light and has a nice stiff feel. I love the matte black and white logo contrast all over the bars too, very slick.

  18. #18
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    Quote Originally Posted by Le Duke View Post
    So, if you wanted to run a "normal" 1-1/8" to 1.5" tapered fork on a Giant, what do you do? The upper bearing is 1-1/4"; what reducers are available?

    I've acquired one of the ebay Carbon frames and would eventually like to swap everything I'm using to build that up over to an XtC Composite frame.
    The frame will come with a headset for a tapered fork and the reducer for a standard 1 1/8 fork. I'm not sure what you mean by the 1 1/4 bearing. The upper bearing's I.D. is 1 1/8

  19. #19
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    Thanks Mucky you da man bro

  20. #20
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    Quote Originally Posted by mucky View Post
    The frame will come with a headset for a tapered fork and the reducer for a standard 1 1/8 fork. I'm not sure what you mean by the 1 1/4 bearing. The upper bearing's I.D. is 1 1/8
    A link on the page for the frameset:

    "OverDrive 2

    FEATURES: Giantís all-new oversize fork steerer-tube technology. Oversize headset bearings and a tapered steerer tube work in harmony to offer unprecedented steering performance with no additional weight. Both road and mountain versions feature massive 1 1/4-inch top and 1 1/2-inch bottom bearings."

  21. #21
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    Quote Originally Posted by Le Duke View Post
    A link on the page for the frameset:

    "OverDrive 2

    FEATURES: Giantís all-new oversize fork steerer-tube technology. Oversize headset bearings and a tapered steerer tube work in harmony to offer unprecedented steering performance with no additional weight. Both road and mountain versions feature massive 1 1/4-inch top and 1 1/2-inch bottom bearings."
    1 1/4 is probably right. I guess if it was 1 1/8 the steerer tube wouldn't fit. My point is, all headset for a 1 1/8 steerer tube have the same I.D. bearing size. Some frames with a tapered headtube don't include the headset. Some people buy 2 headsets, one 1 1/8 and one for 1 1/2. I think more companies are now offering headsets complete for tapered headtubes and forks. FSA is certainly one, King makes one.
    Giant includes this with their frameset, along with a reducer for the bottom bearing, to utilize a full 1 1/8 steerer tube.

  22. #22
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    Well a big thank you for the help you guys have provided. Got my xtc 29er up and running and went for my first ride.
    THis may replace my 26 xtc advance.......we will see.

    Observations from an old fella
    Bike is probably a better fit for me, I got an Xl as opposed to a 20inch 26er .handlebars are only slightly lower than the seat whereas on the 26 it's about 4 inches.
    Far smoother to ride on gravel/tarseal. Really makes a difference and I suspect far less tiring on the 4 hour plus rides.
    I read the reports on it being a bit twitchy with the 100mm fork so went with a talas 95-120. Happy with the decision. It is more twitchy than the 26er. Not a problem in itself until you get tired and slack. 95 going up ,120 down.
    I wasn't quicker but not slower either. I suspect I will be faster once I get up to speed. 3 minutes slower than my best round a 1.45 hours 40km loop.
    Stand and mash up the hills.....no rear wheel slip.
    Heavy gravel downhills....front felt more planted than the 26er
    Only downside was I found it harder to spin up the bigger wheels on downhills before a steep rise......practice.

    Haven't checked out the very very steep technical abilities yet but it can wait as its wet at the moment.

    Won't be selling the 26er yet but I'm happy so far.
    XTC Composite 29er build ?s-imageuploadedbytapatalk1337406699.125345.jpg
    XTC Composite 29er build ?s-imageuploadedbytapatalk1337406716.196633.jpg
    XTC Composite 29er build ?s-imageuploadedbytapatalk1337406732.755431.jpg
    XTC Composite 29er build ?s-imageuploadedbytapatalk1337406744.470879.jpg

    Thanks again for your help
    Cheers Jeff

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