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  1. #2401
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    Quote Originally Posted by Sethbash View Post
    Noob Question
    For those of you all that have gone with a 1x system, what was every part you got for your bike. Do the talon's need a new crankset or bottom bracket or is that just an optional upgrade?

    Thanks for the replys

    Hi,

    I went with



    Shimano Saint M820 1x10 Speed Trigger Shifter

    Shimano XT M771 10 Speed MTB Cassette (11-36)

    Shimano XT HG95 SIL-TEC 10 Speed Chain Silver, 116 Links

    Shimano XT M786 Shadow+ 10 Speed Rear Mech

    I already had a Deore Triple crankset on the bike, So I bought a Narrowwide chainring 104&64 bcd compatible (that is what my Deore triple crankset is) and bolted it onto the middle chainring. My Chainring choice was an AbsoluteBlack oval 32T.


    you need a triple or 1x crankset, Lots of options for chainrings.

  2. #2402
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    Quote Originally Posted by Sethbash View Post
    Noob Question
    For those of you all that have gone with a 1x system, what was every part you got for your bike. Do the talon's need a new crankset or bottom bracket or is that just an optional upgrade?

    Thanks for the replys
    I stuck with the Deore 10spd shifter that came with my Talon 2.
    Replaced my derailleur with an SLX Shadow + to give me a decent clutch derailleur. I used a Wolf Tooth / Lindarets Goat Link to place the derailleur in a better position for widerange rear cassettes.
    Replaced the cassette with a Sunrace MX3 11-40t (I could have gone 42t, but older 10 speed Shimano plays better with 40t without something like the One Up cage mod)
    I initially used a Raceface 32t NW ring on the factory cranks, but I optionally changed the bottom bracket and crankset to the new XT M8000 stuff - and went to an Wolf Tooth Oval ring 32t. You can easily use the original Octalink bottom bracket and crankset, just grab a 104BCD narrow wide ring.

  3. #2403
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    Rattling Rear D

    Hi All, I need some advise. Lately, my rear derailleur is giving off a rattling sound when I travel at medium & high speed. More apparent when using the smaller cogs (high gear). I managed to zoom down the sound coming from the chain rubbing the cage (see photo). As you can observe, the surface of the cage has got scratch marks due to the rub. I am surprised that the chain could actually vibrate & hit that surface. I just changed my drivetrain last 3 months & have not really gone on trails, aside from some dirt tracks. I doubt it is a wear & tear issue....I am thinking more of some settings issue. Any advise would be much appreciated. Thanks!!!
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Talon owners .....-rear-d.jpg  


  4. #2404
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    Shimano chain? Is the connecting pin link flexible or sticky?
    Are you sure that is where the rattle is coming from. Maybe you have gear cable stretch, and the read derailleur needs adjusted a smidge.

  5. #2405
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    Hi Cyclinglymie. Firstly, thank you for responding. I apologize because I am not familiar with the term "flexible" or "sticky". Perhaps you can also help advice me on those terms.
    My chain is a HG-X 10 speed. I am having a 10X2 XT groupset. I hope this info can help.
    I am sure the sound is coming from there. I have 3 reasons for that.....
    1) When I gave the bike a spin (while on a stand), I can see the chain occasionally "jumping" & hitting the cage surface.
    2) There is also a scratch mark which suggest continuous contact between the chain & the surface had occurred.
    3) The rattling sound is definitely a sound made when something hits the cage. It has a "hollow" kind of sound. Definitely not a sound of chain rubbing the cogs.

    My initial guess would be a loose chain....but I don't think a HG-X chain can be loose in just 3 months, considering I ride only twice a week & had not hit the trails yet. But I may be wrong.

    I do not know of any settings change that could cause such a phenomenon. Does a H, L & B changes could result to that?

  6. #2406
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    H, L & b is above my paygrade.

    KMC & SRAM chains use quick connects. Shimano chains still use a chain pin to connect the ends of the chain, and then the extra length gets broken off. If this pin is not in far enough or in too far. The two chain links bind on that pin. So when the chain comes around your Derailleur jocky wheel it bends, and if that connecting pin is sticky the chain will stay bent between those 2 links.

  7. #2407
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    Quote Originally Posted by Cyclinglymie View Post
    H, L & b is above my paygrade.

    KMC & SRAM chains use quick connects. Shimano chains still use a chain pin to connect the ends of the chain, and then the extra length gets broken off. If this pin is not in far enough or in too far. The two chain links bind on that pin. So when the chain comes around your Derailleur jocky wheel it bends, and if that connecting pin is sticky the chain will stay bent between those 2 links.
    Thank you for the info. The sticky chain may be a probable cause. However, for the sound to be repetitive, there has so be many chains which a sticky. And I don't see this case visually. But again, let me inspect it.
    But from what you explained, it makes me think that this problem is more chain related then any other. Thanks again!

  8. #2408
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    Not saying that is what it is, just saying It Is something to check.

  9. #2409
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    Noted Sir!!! Thanks.

  10. #2410
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    Quote Originally Posted by ndr View Post
    Anybody have suggestions for a decent cheap stem (shipped to Canada). Was thinking about this: Race Face Ride XC Stem | Chain Reaction Cycles

    Also, does anyone know the stack height of the current stem (2015 Talon 1)? Is it likely I'll need spacers?
    good choice. I was also looking for a "budget stem" this summer and came up with the same thing. Value wise this can't be beaten. Looks good too.

    stack height of current stem should be easy to find out by yourself if you own the bike.

  11. #2411
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    I need an urgent help. I saw a good deal for Talon 1 29er 2016 and I cannot find proper info about the standover height. Could you please somebody measure the horizontal bar's top height from the ground (30cm form the seat post) for the L and XL.
    Just in case I am 190cm (6'3") tall and leg inside is 85cm (2'9")
    Thank you

  12. #2412
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    Quote Originally Posted by zsoltq View Post
    I need an urgent help. I saw a good deal for Talon 1 29er 2016 and I cannot find proper info about the standover height. Could you please somebody measure the horizontal bar's top height from the ground (30cm form the seat post) for the L and XL.
    Just in case I am 190cm (6'3") tall and leg inside is 85cm (2'9")
    Thank you
    Based on Giant's page

    Size Head Angle Seat Angle Top Tube Reach Head Tube Stack Chain Stay Wheel Base Standover Height
    Inches Degrees Degrees Inches Centimeters Inches Centimeters Inches Inches Inches
    L/20 70.5 72.0 24.2 N/A 4.7 N/A 17.6 43.2 30.4
    XL/22 70.5 72.0 25.0 N/A 4.9 N/A 17.6 44.0 32.2

    For reference, I'm 5'8" and ride a large 2011 291 with 0 standover (jewels touch the top tube when standing), top tube lenght is more important than standover IMO.

  13. #2413
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ashrie08 View Post
    ... I just changed my drivetrain last 3 months...
    Was everything OK before you changed the drivetrain?

    Is the new chain the same number of links as the old one (same length)? If the chain is too long, there may not be enough tension in some gear combinations (especially small chainring and the small rear sprockets).

    Quote Originally Posted by Ashrie08 View Post
    ...My chain is a HG-X 10 speed...
    I believe that the HG-X chain is "directional". It looks from the picture that it is fitted correctly, as I cannot see any writing on the links. (The writing on the links should be visible from the outside of the chain - pdf link ). Worth double checking.

    Does a H, L & B changes could result to that?
    I can't think of any adjustment of the H (high limit), L (low limit) or B screw that would cause the chain to hit where you have shown.

    The chain does vibrate a lot on rough ground, so I'm not surprised to see some marks there. They may or may not be the source of your noise.

    I would check for stiff links first (as suggested already), check that the jockey wheels (the small sprockets on the derailleur itself) are running freely and clean and lube the chain to see if this solves the problem.

    Video on how to check for and fix a 'stiff link': (If you have a chain tool, there is a better way to fix the link than using the screwdriver if flexing the link doesn't fix it)



    Otherwise try and gather more information about the noise as you can - does it happen every pedal stroke? Every 3 or 4? Small and big chainrings? and so on...

  14. #2414
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    Are you talking about chain slap? That's normal when riding trails.

    Hate the the Shimano pin system, prefer SRAM or KMC chains for their mother link system (Power Link if talking SRAM). You can use one of those mother links on Shimano chains with no problems.

  15. #2415
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    Hello Misterg, thank you for the extensive reply....

    Firstly, I changed the whole drivetrain from an Acera to an XT. Thus all components are new & I can't make comparisons. The problem only surfaced about 2 weeks ago.
    My chains directions are pretty correct. I had confirmed that with a veteran & also an LBS.

    Just to share with you, I had been searching about this problem on other forums & it seems I am not the only one who experienced it. That cage surface (tab) has got only about 2~3mm allowance from the chain. Thus a slight change in chain tension can result to the chain hitting & rubbing the tab.
    A few conditions that causes the rubbing/grinding sound is when
    1) Using the smaller cogs
    2) high cadence
    3) riding a semi rough (e.g. tar road) surface. (I don't know if that is considered rough??)

    I read in the forum that owners of XTR also experienced this & many blame it on the design of the tab being there in between the pulleys.
    Here is the link of the forum => Weird derailleur grind - Shimano XT RD-M772 Short Cage

    Some suggest to reroute the chain. But how?

  16. #2416
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ashrie08 View Post
    ...Some suggest to reroute the chain. But how?
    That suggestion is wrong. There is a mistake that people sometimes make to route the chain incorrectly through the derailleur cage so that it always rubs on the tab, and the first reply on that thread assumed that it was what the original poster had done. Your chain is routed correctly, as far as I can see.

    The only thing I can think is to check that the chain is not too long. Did you need to shorten the chain when you changed the drivetrain?



    If the chain length is correct when checked in the way shown in the video, then I can't suggest anything else. Maybe it is a "feature" of that particular mech...

  17. #2417
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    Hard to see in the pic but believe that the chain goes on the other side of the tab.



    Check this guide out: Chain Installation?Derailleur Bikes | Park Tool

  18. #2418
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    Quote Originally Posted by DiRt DeViL View Post
    Hard to see in the pic but believe that the chain goes on the other side of the tab.


    Check this guide out: Chain Installation?Derailleur Bikes | Park Tool
    His chain is on correctly.

  19. #2419
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    Guys, thanks a lot for the replies.

    When I changed my drivetrain 3 months ago, I couldn't change my BB because I do not have the proper tools. Thus I still used my Stock (suntour) chainring. 2 days later, I brought my bike to an LBS to change the BB & chainring (to XT). I didn't recall the guy shortening my chain. Considering the talon 4 stock chainring is perhaps larger than an XT chainring.
    But things were good until 2 weeks ago. I probably will get my chain length checked. It seems no other variables are as prominent as the chain for now.
    I'll get my chains checked & if necessary, rectified. If the problem still persist, I have to say it is a design issue. Thank you All!!!

  20. #2420
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    Hi guys,

    Newbie rider here, Have been riding for about 4 months on an old Giant Boulder SE, thought it was time for an upgrade since i'm enjoying the sport, this weekend I've recently purchased a 2016 Talon 2, my question is on the giant website the 2017 talon 2 is now $700 while the 2016 was $1100, what has changed from 2016 to 2017 with the Talon line? I noticed 2016 had a talon 1,2,3,4 for 2017 there is only a 2 & 3? It seems they're similar with but have do differ in componets like the fork, my question is why the same name?

  21. #2421
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    Hi

    The 2016 models improved in spec from Talon 4 .... Talon 0. It's normal for the specs to evolve from year to year - usually it improves, but not always...

    Quote Originally Posted by Kelin1616 View Post
    ...what has changed from 2016 to 2017 with the Talon line?
    It seems the spec level of each model dropped! (Along with the price)

    From the Giant USA web site...

    2016 Talon 2

    2016 Talon 3


    2017 Talon 2

    Forks:

    2016 "2" - SR Suntour Epixon LO-RC w/ low speed compression and rebound adjuster, 100mm travel (Has damping. OK fork - Entry level for trail use)
    2016 "3" - SR Suntour XCM w/ hydraulic lockout & preload adjuster, 100mm travel (No damping - will quickly become limiting on trails)

    2017 "2" - SR Suntour XCM w/ hydraulic lockout & preload adjuster, 100mm travel (same as 2016 "3")

    Drivetrain:

    2016 "2" - Deore level 10 speed / Shimano crankset
    2016 "3" - Altus / Alivio level 9 speed / FSA crankset

    2017 "2" - Alivio / Deore level 9 speed / FSA crankset (slightly better than a 2016 "3", but not as good as a 2016 "2")

    etc...

    (I would prefer the Shimano brakes on the 2017 model, though, but that is just personal preference.)

    why the same name?
    Marketing? Dirty tricks? People will read reviews of a "Talon" based on the 2016 models and think that's what they're getting when they go to buy a 2017 'Talon 2', etc.



    It's sharp practice in my book

  22. #2422
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    I may be wrong, but I feel Giant is having difficulty to market the Talon now. The talon is a great bike & it seems no one had ever disputed that. People only complain about components but people don't complain about the bike.
    However, with the new advancement in bike technology (e.g. tapered head etc), which the Talon does not have, makes it less attractive to invest in. So, sadly, it becomes an entry level choice & so, the price has to be entry level. So Giant is trying to make the price attractive & the only way is to downgrade the components.
    Just look at a Talon 0. With the components it has, the bike is super. But for investment wise, someone will likely consider an XTC SLR 4, which has lower grade components, but an up to date frame to build on. Just my thoughts.

  23. #2423
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    Quote Originally Posted by Steel Calf View Post
    good choice. I was also looking for a "budget stem" this summer and came up with the same thing. Value wise this can't be beaten. Looks good too.

    stack height of current stem should be easy to find out by yourself if you own the bike.
    Did you need to add spacers?

  24. #2424
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    Quote Originally Posted by Misterg View Post
    Hi

    The 2016 models improved in spec from Talon 4 .... Talon 0. It's normal for the specs to evolve from year to year - usually it improves, but not always...
    :
    Interesting, thanks for informational reply

    I absolutely love this bike, road a few trek X-caliber's and specialized rockhoppers, didnt expect to even take a look at a talon/didnt even know what it was, was about to buy a trek excaliber before the shop asked me to try this bike, just felt more comfortable and confident on this bike, I'll really get a chance to break it in this weekend, all the mods you guys have done makes me think this is still a great platform to build on, glad to see a strong community.

  25. #2425
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    Quote Originally Posted by ndr View Post
    Did you need to add spacers?
    yes.

  26. #2426
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    Quote Originally Posted by Kelin1616 View Post
    Interesting, thanks for informational reply

    I absolutely love this bike, road a few trek X-caliber's and specialized rockhoppers, didnt expect to even take a look at a talon/didnt even know what it was, was about to buy a trek excaliber before the shop asked me to try this bike, just felt more comfortable and confident on this bike, I'll really get a chance to break it in this weekend, all the mods you guys have done makes me think this is still a great platform to build on, glad to see a strong community.
    As I had mentioned, it is a good bike. I bought a Talon 4 2015. 1 yr down the road, I upgraded it with these..
    1) Epixon Fork
    2) Magura Brakes
    3) XT Drivetrain
    4) Wellgo Flat Pedals

    No plans to change to a new bike.

  27. #2427
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    Strange that the US is dropping it's Talon line. We (the Netherlands) still have the Talon 2, Talon 1, Talon 0 and we get the Talon RC with Fox 32 suspension. I personally ride the 2014 Talon 0 with Fox 32 up front and I love it. It's not race geometry (that's basically the XTC's terrain), but it's the first 'propper' mountainbike in the line-up.

    Additionally, we now have the Fathom 29, Talon 29, Revel 29 and a really nice XTC advanced 3. Pricing difference between the 27.5 Talon RC, Fathom 29 0 and XTC Advanced 3 is very marginally with similar specification.

    Giant has even added nearly all full-suspension bikes to it's stock this year, where as we had to do with only the Anthem. Time to start saving up for a new bike.

  28. #2428
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    Quote Originally Posted by Scotchchrissy View Post
    Has anyone got the fox float 27.5 100mm forks?

    Quick question

    Are they suppose to lock out completely?

    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    The lock-out takes out 95% of movement. You can't physically block it a 100%.

  29. #2429
    ndr
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    Quote Originally Posted by Steel Calf View Post
    yes.
    Damn. I forgot to order some when I ordered the stem. Looks like i'll be making a trip to the LBS.

  30. #2430
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    Quote Originally Posted by ndr View Post
    Damn. I forgot to order some when I ordered the stem. Looks like i'll be making a trip to the LBS.
    an additional 5mm Spacer shouldn't be that hard to source

  31. #2431
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    Quote Originally Posted by Steel Calf View Post
    an additional 5mm Spacer shouldn't be that hard to source
    in a pinch a roll of electrical tape works. LOL I knew a guy that raced that way. Messing with fit and adjustment. 2 am got distracted forgot to cut a custom spacer, saw the roll of tape half way through race the next day. It's a good thing it wasn't a wet race.

  32. #2432
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    Talon owners .....-20160807_223526.jpgTalon owners .....-20160620_232906.jpggreat bike except i wished headtube was bit more agressive angle and i dont know why but my chain drops alot seems like its too loose

  33. #2433
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    Good day all.
    I am new to the forum but have been browsing for a while. I am a proud Talon owner and absolutely love this bike. I have basically rebuilt if from the ground up with only a few more upgrades to go, wheels and headset. Which brings me to my question.

    Has anyone changed the headset on their Talon?

  34. #2434
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    Quote Originally Posted by thebrown View Post
    Has anyone changed the headset on their Talon?
    I did on both of our Talon 291's, used the Giant branded FSA zero stack sealed bearing headset that the older XTC used to use (before tapered headtubes) and eventually substituted the lower cup with a Cane Creek 40 adapter cup to use a tapered fork on mine.

    The headtube ID on mine is 44, measure yours to make sure.

  35. #2435
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    Quote Originally Posted by Igor9999 View Post
    Click image for larger version. 

Name:	20160807_223526.jpg 
Views:	43 
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ID:	1097816Click image for larger version. 

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ID:	1097814great bike except i wished headtube was bit more agressive angle and i dont know why but my chain drops alot seems like its too loose
    Your chain could be worn so start there.. they tend to stretch over thing. Also try a clutched rear derailleur.

  36. #2436
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    Quote Originally Posted by DiRt DeViL View Post
    I did on both of our Talon 291's, used the Giant branded FSA zero stack sealed bearing headset that the older XTC used to use (before tapered headtubes) and eventually substituted the lower cup with a Cane Creek 40 adapter cup to use a tapered fork on mine.

    The headtube ID on mine is 44, measure yours to make sure.
    It's a 2015 Talon so I'm pretty sure is it a 44 as well.
    Was it a tough procedure?

  37. #2437
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    Quote Originally Posted by thebrown View Post
    Was it a tough procedure?
    Not at all, you need to remove the cups, replace and press into place.

    I made my own removal tool and press, a long bolt with nut and wide washers do the trick but make sure the cups are leveled before pressing and put a bit of grease on outside of the inner lip of the cup before installation.

  38. #2438
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    I've made one of the exact same presses before myself. No need to buy a fancy tool when you can make one for a couple bucks. I'm looking at this headset: Cane Creek 10 ZS44/28.6|ZS44/30 Short > Components > Headsets > Complete Headsets | Jenson USA

    by all my research it looks like it should do the job.

  39. #2439
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    Quote Originally Posted by syphen View Post
    Added a carbon seatpost and carbon 720mm bars. Going to take it out for a ride tomorrow and see if it feels any different.
    Man I can't get over how sweet the white frames look. I love the contrasting blue stickers as well.

  40. #2440
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    Just got a Talon 1 27.5 2016 model second hand for $700 (Australian dollar). Brand new condition hardly ridden.

    Talon owners .....-zgtal116.jpg

    Gave it a full tune up and new pedals. Great bike, very smooth, good balance and handling and comfortable. Quality components. Fairly light for the price range. Might get some new tyres but doesn't really need much in the way of upgrades.

    Have had quite a few different bikes over the years. This is one of the best to ride. You can't really go wrong with a decent bike from one of the big brands.

  41. #2441
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    I have a '16 Talon 29er, anyone know how wide of a tire will fit front and rear? I will measure clearance but first hand experience would be nice. Still running the stock Suntour up front, may switch to a Recon if I decide to keep the bike for next season as well.

    Also if anyone's riding in New England, tire recs are welcome as well. I have the stock Maxxis Crossmarks on there now.

  42. #2442
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    Quote Originally Posted by basso4735 View Post
    I have a '16 Talon 29er, anyone know how wide of a tire will fit front and rear? I will measure clearance but first hand experience would be nice. Still running the stock Suntour up front, may switch to a Recon if I decide to keep the bike for next season as well.

    Also if anyone's riding in New England, tire recs are welcome as well. I have the stock Maxxis Crossmarks on there now.
    Not sure how wide but a 2.4 should fit in the front. I'm in CNY and the Crossmarks work fine in dry hard pack conditions, for other conditions use the Kenda Neveal 2.2's, all you need are knobby tires. A good combo is the Bontrager XR4 front and XR3 rear.

  43. #2443
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    New Talon owner.

    Traded my 1998 Cannondale f500 for a 2014 27.5 1. When I say traded, I mean I sold the Cannondale for $450.00 and picked the Talon up for the same price. I consider that a good swap.

    The Tally is an xl cuz I am 6.1. Pretty happy with it, seat is a little stiff but very happy with the compo upgrade from the Cannon.

    I think I am going to get a shorter stem too if anyone wants to trade my 110 for an 80 or 90mm.

    Also, want some thinner tires as I will be more road than xc. What are the thinnest tires I can go on the stock rims?

    Cheers.

    Talon owners .....-img_5214.jpg
    Last edited by katman; 10-17-2016 at 02:18 AM.

  44. #2444
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    Quote Originally Posted by katman View Post
    New Talon owner.

    Traded my 1998 Cannondale f500 for a 2014 27.5 1. When I say traded, I mean I sold the Cannondale for $450.00 and picked the Talon up for the same price. I consider that a good swap.

    The Tally is an xl cuz I am 6.1. Pretty happy with it, seat is a little stiff but very happy with the compo upgrade from the Cannon.

    I think I am going to get a shorter stem too if anyone wants to trade my 110 for an 80 or 90mm.

    Also, want some thinner tires as I will be more road than xc. What are the thinnest tires I can go on the stock rims?

    Cheers.

    Click image for larger version. 

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    Instead of going thinner, have you considered sticking with a 2.25" tire that is more geared towards XC? I'm running a Racing Ralph front and Thunder Burt rear on my Talon right now for the more buffed out local XC style trails. It's proving to be a decent setup. I went to this from Nobby Nic front and rear on the Talon but found I was taking my Trance more often on rougher trails. I prefer the Talon setup a little more XC.

  45. #2445
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    If you plan on doing more road than dirt put on some semi slicks, 1.9's should be fine.

  46. #2446
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    I would just go ahead and buy a pair of dedicated slick tires. I bought a set of Panracer Nifty Swifty and they work great. very low profile and they roll super smooth.

  47. #2447
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    Picked up a pair of CrankBros Candy 1 pedals.
    Last edited by katman; 10-18-2016 at 12:57 AM.

  48. #2448
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    moved
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Talon owners .....-2014_talon_27_5_1.jpg  


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    Quote Originally Posted by roaming_art View Post
    Cool, I'll look into those!
    Hi, I'd like to see how was you tire upgrade? I'm also thinking of using 2.2" or 2.35" but i am a bit worry that I might not fit specially in rear.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

  50. #2450
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    Quote Originally Posted by syphen View Post
    Looks good Typo - It'll be so much sweeter with those new brakes!

    Totally took my Talon for a ride today also!
    Attachment 1031778
    But it was -6c (20f) and snowy... So I kept her indoors
    Its that a 27.5 on the back or 29?
    If it is 27.5 what kind of tire is it and where did you get it?

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