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  1. #2601
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    Both. Mainly on wet roots.
    Is it a good Allround tire? I need something that works for pretty much all conditions as I'm not gonna change tires based on weather or which trails I'm going to.
    I already ride tubeless and ~2bar in the back, I probably can't go much lower than that

  2. #2602
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    The Ardent is a good all around without being too aggressive like an enduro/DH tire.
    Can be a bit densily packed crampons to properly release mud (though my friends don't to see much of an issue).

  3. #2603
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    Do you have a comparison to the nobby nic? I see that one often used as all-round tire as it has a low rolling resistance and still offers good grip
    So will I be able to put a 2.35 in the back? I found the specifications for the fork and it said up to 2.4 so front no problem but I'm still not sure what to do with the back.

  4. #2604
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    I never tried the nn but I know the Ardent 3C has pretty grip nice on wet rocks and roots (we have lots off those around here).
    I don't think there should be an issue with a 2.35 in the back. Just remember to keep more or equal traction in the front, like that if a tire starts slipping it's the rear one which is a lot easier to deal with than the front washing out.
    You can also look at the Forekaster for a front, it's like the Ardent but wider and more open to clear out mud.

  5. #2605
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    Quote Originally Posted by sgticetea View Post
    Both. Mainly on wet roots.
    I need something that works for pretty much all conditions as I'm not gonna change tires based on weather or which trails I'm going to.
    I already ride tubeless and ~2bar in the back, I probably can't go much lower than that
    2 bar (=29PSI) is quite a lot of pressure unless you're a big guy... I run <1.5 bar (=22PSI) at 68kg (=150lbs).

    Nothing really works on wet roots, other than blind faith and a good sense of balance...

    The stock tyres are likely the cheapest rubber compound, and be very poor in the wet.

    I've never got on with the 2.25 Ardent (I thought they were dangerous in the wet), but apparently the 2.4 is a different tyre (and comes up small against it's specified size).

    Good all-round tyres are 2.3" WTB Vigilantes or Maxxis Minion DHF. I run the WTBs on my Talon and they are great for most everything. I run the Minions on another bike, and they are very similar.

  6. #2606
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    Yeah I've read a test saying the Ardent isn't really good in the wet.

    I run 2 bar because I'm ~90kg with gear. I could probably try to go a bit lower but I don't want to destroy the rim.

    The Vigilantes look good but they are heavy and probably overkill. Also I ride at least 40-50% on road/wide forest paths where I would probably benefit from something lighter/easier rolling. As an example, the minion dhf has 50 Watts rolling resistance while the Nobby nic has 20.

  7. #2607
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    Quote Originally Posted by sgticetea View Post
    Yeah I've read a test saying the Ardent isn't really good in the wet.
    Nope, the dual density Ardents are great when wet. It's rated for wet conditions. Maybe a bit too tightly packed crampons to release the mud but they stick regardless.

  8. #2608
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    I've run Racing Ralphs, Thunder Burts, Nobby Nic Evo, Ardent, and Minions of the DHR, DHF and SS varieties on my Talon. I'm back to Nobby Nic Evo's in 2.25" front and rear for spring/fall and change the rear out for a Racing Ralph in the summer when things dry out. It seems to be a darn good combo for my local conditions.

  9. #2609
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    Quote Originally Posted by basso4735 View Post
    Said goodbye to my Talon yesterday. Sad day indeed but hopefully it will get a lot of use by the next owner!




    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    If you don't mind, how much did you get for the bike?

  10. #2610
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    Got me a new Talon 2 2017...

    My boss got me the Talon 2 2017 from Singapore.
    Talon owners .....-image-0-02-06-b55e7d9eb330e493093f6967d6f94e77f0a38256879824a411edfaf3fa743893-v.jpg
    The one with the Fox fork is my boss Talon 1 2016. I'm assembling his bike for him.
    The Talon 2 2017 is the red frame. Already strip all the components that comes with it.
    Going to transfer all the component from my old Talon 1 2012.
    Talon owners .....-image-0-02-06-0d2212ea6440da1a18e7ce37931ac3428f91fcad283e985173f343a8a0e0a8f5-v.jpg
    The pictures shows the complete transfer of my old components.Talon owners .....-image-0-02-06-dd18d6f6934fc11f660ebcb7c41a32bebfbb5d753f07c33c8c9c22a1b5da47a8-v.jpg
    Finally decided to reroute the dropper post cable. Gonna try this setup on the trail this coming Sunday. Gonna upgrade the fork and front hub next time.

  11. #2611
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    I have a 2017 talon 2 and need help. I am trying to order a replacement 38t chainring but I haven't been able to find out exactly what size I need. I want to stay with 38t. Does anyone know a good replacement?

  12. #2612
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    Raceface makes a 104bcd 38t Chainring. I setup a cheapo ATX Lite rigid for my wife. She mainly rides gravel bike paths and the odd paved one. At first I threw a spare 32t on there but she didn't like it. She's back to the 38t Raceface and 11-40t cassette now. Works well.

  13. #2613
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    Thank you so much!

  14. #2614
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    Off subject here but I'd love so input. Im hoping to get the talon 3 but im stuck on which size to get. Im 5' 11 1/2" with 33" inseam. The chart says large starting at 5' 8" (which seems low to me). I road both medium and large today and liked how controllable the medium was. It was more fun and playful. But im afraid to get it and find out its just too small. What size are you all liking compared to height? Im really torn here. Im looking to do trail with some technical and moderate downhill. Any help here would be appreciated. Thanks!!

  15. #2615
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    "Technical and moderate Downhill?: medium should be ok. I tried mine already on the trail. The only changes I did was a shorter stem and a dropper post from giant.

  16. #2616
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    Yes. More technical trails and downhill are my favorite. Moderate meaning nothing extreme. So you have the medium? You didnt mention any dimensions.

  17. #2617
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    Quote Originally Posted by Glines View Post
    Yes. More technical trails and downhill are my favorite. Moderate meaning nothing extreme. So you have the medium? You didnt mention any dimensions.

    Oops. I'm 5'7". According to Giant Size chart I'm at the end of "small and at the beginning of medium". I have a Talon before the 2012 model. And its small. I find it a bit scary to use on the trail. But the medium makes me feel like I'm riding my Giant Reign.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Talon owners .....-giants.jpg  


  18. #2618
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    Quote Originally Posted by jun austria View Post
    My boss got me the Talon 2 2017 from Singapore.
    Click image for larger version. 

Name:	image-0-02-06-b55e7d9eb330e493093f6967d6f94e77f0a38256879824a411edfaf3fa743893-V.jpg 
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    The one with the Fox fork is my boss Talon 1 2016. I'm assembling his bike for him.
    The Talon 2 2017 is the red frame. Already strip all the components that comes with it.
    Going to transfer all the component from my old Talon 1 2012.
    Click image for larger version. 

Name:	image-0-02-06-0d2212ea6440da1a18e7ce37931ac3428f91fcad283e985173f343a8a0e0a8f5-V.jpg 
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    The pictures shows the complete transfer of my old components.Click image for larger version. 

Name:	image-0-02-06-dd18d6f6934fc11f660ebcb7c41a32bebfbb5d753f07c33c8c9c22a1b5da47a8-V.jpg 
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    Finally decided to reroute the dropper post cable. Gonna try this setup on the trail this coming Sunday. Gonna upgrade the fork and front hub next time.
    Did u drill a hole to internally run ur dropper post cable or is that the water bottle hole opening?

    Sent from my SM-G935V using Tapatalk

  19. #2619
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    Quote Originally Posted by pwe312 View Post
    Did u drill a hole to internally run ur dropper post cable or is that the water bottle hole opening?

    Sent from my SM-G935V using Tapatalk
    At first I used the water bottle bolt opening. Then looking at the picture, it is ugly. Then I decided to drill a new hole further down but not too close to the weld joint. Works perfectly.

  20. #2620
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    Has anyone tried a 120mm Fork? Do you recommend it?

  21. #2621
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    Quote Originally Posted by sgticetea View Post
    Has anyone tried a 120mm Fork? Do you recommend it?
    I haven't tried it yet but I already ordered a Rockshox Reba 120mm travel. And a new headset bearings.
    But before I ordered my new fork, I did some research. If you are changing your fork, make sure the head angle doesn't go beyond 1°. With the change of 100mm travel to 120mm. The head angle become slacker from 68° to 67°. I change mine coz I'm so use to my Reign. And ride slightly more aggressive with my Talon.

  22. #2622
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    Quote Originally Posted by WartownPiper View Post
    I have a 2017 talon 2 and need help. I am trying to order a replacement 38t chainring but I haven't been able to find out exactly what size I need. I want to stay with 38t. Does anyone know a good replacement?
    Just found out the hard way that the 2017 Talon 2 does not have a 104mm bcd larger chainring but rather a 96mm bcd. It's a bit harder to find but I just ordered one on chain reaction cycles for under $40. Luckily amazon's return policy is awesome!

  23. #2623
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    Hi all,

    2014 talon 1 XL

    Stripped out my left 175mm "giant" (FSA MegaExo) crank arm (peddle end) and can't find another one. Anyone updated theirs and maybe have one laying around?

    Second time on this bike and it looks like the guy who sold it to me forgot to mention the crank arm issue.

    I hate to have to buy a new crank set after just buying this bike, especially since I can't find one that will fit the FSA bottom bracket.

    Any help would be much appreciated.

    Cheers.

    Talon owners .....-2014-talon_27.5_1.jpg

  24. #2624
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    double post

  25. #2625
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    Quote Originally Posted by jun austria View Post
    My boss got me the Talon 2 2017 from Singapore.
    Click image for larger version. 

Name:	image-0-02-06-b55e7d9eb330e493093f6967d6f94e77f0a38256879824a411edfaf3fa743893-V.jpg 
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    The one with the Fox fork is my boss Talon 1 2016. I'm assembling his bike for him.
    The Talon 2 2017 is the red frame. Already strip all the components that comes with it.
    Going to transfer all the component from my old Talon 1 2012.
    Click image for larger version. 

Name:	image-0-02-06-0d2212ea6440da1a18e7ce37931ac3428f91fcad283e985173f343a8a0e0a8f5-V.jpg 
Views:	1190 
Size:	85.0 KB 
ID:	1143088
    The pictures shows the complete transfer of my old components.Click image for larger version. 

Name:	image-0-02-06-dd18d6f6934fc11f660ebcb7c41a32bebfbb5d753f07c33c8c9c22a1b5da47a8-V.jpg 
Views:	191 
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    Finally decided to reroute the dropper post cable. Gonna try this setup on the trail this coming Sunday. Gonna upgrade the fork and front hub next time.
    You wouldn't still have the stock cranks would you?

  26. #2626
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    Quote Originally Posted by katman View Post
    You wouldn't still have the stock cranks would you?
    All the components that comes with the new Talon were all transferred to my old Talon.

  27. #2627
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    I have a 120 mm (29er) rockshox fork. i got it for $50 basically new,. its a little taller than a 650b fork, but thats ok. i like the ride and slacked me out some so i like the rough stuff a lot better. i converted it to air and converted it to motion control. it isnt my nice bike so the frame warranty isnt a huge concern to me. the bike loves 120 mm for rougher trails. i run full xt with wtb i23 rims hans dampf front and rear.

  28. #2628
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    Quote Originally Posted by peanutz View Post
    I have a 120 mm (29er) rockshox fork. i got it for $50 basically new,. its a little taller than a 650b fork, but thats ok.
    Wow. Fantastic second hand deal. Is it the RECON? I ordered a new REBA @ 120mm travel and it cost me US$500. Good find mate.

  29. #2629
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    Mine was a xc32 so same as recon, straight alloy steerer with steel uppers. Came coil put in and air spring got a replacement mc damper and voila. I have a reba on my other bike I do have to say I like it more, but for 150 all in I can't complain. I couldn't find any good straight steerer forks when I looked so I figured something out lol.

  30. #2630
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    Quote Originally Posted by peanutz View Post
    I couldn't find any good straight steerer forks when I looked so I figured something out lol.
    I gave up on a straight steerer. Not much option, fortunately got the cane creek headset adapter for tapered steerer.

  31. #2631
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    Talon owners .....-taloned.jpg

    Changed from Nobby Nic front and rear to Minion DHF front and SS rear in 2.3". It's rained so much this year that moving to a beefier tire hasn't been a problem.

  32. #2632
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    What do you think of that as on the rear? I have hans dampf front and rear, excellent traction but a bit draggy

  33. #2633
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    The DHF reminds me of a Hans Dampf in feel. Maybe a little better in the hard cornering. The Minion SS has really surprised me with the amount of grip it offers. I'm loving the combo but it is a high rolling resistance setup. Like I said, it's been a very wet year and the beefier tire combo has been working well with my local trails being as water-logged as they are.

  34. #2634
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    Just noticed that Giant has added the 2018 Talon 2 and 3 models to their website. Builds look similar to the 2017's, but internal cable routing is new and so is the rear brake mount - which has been shifted about 90 degrees. Also, I guess the '17 and '18 Talons have been slackened by 2 degrees head angle. 68 degrees instead of the older 70 degrees.

  35. #2635
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    Smile Bit the 1x bullet.

    bit the 1x bullet. Talon owners .....-img_2851.jpgTalon owners .....-img_2852.jpgTalon owners .....-img_2854.jpg

    1x9
    11-40t Sunrace
    34t Deckas Narrow Wide

  36. #2636
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    Hey guys long time no talk. Anyways haven't rode my bike in a little over a year due to work. I brought it in for a tuneup and the bike shop guy asked if I ever thought about shortening my stem and getting longer bars? That is still all totally stock on my bike 2012 Talon 2. Are you guys bothering to replace that stuff and if so what size bars, etc? Is 780 long enough?

  37. #2637
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    Quote Originally Posted by GeauxLSU View Post
    Hey guys long time no talk. Anyways haven't rode my bike in a little over a year due to work. I brought it in for a tuneup and the bike shop guy asked if I ever thought about shortening my stem and getting longer bars? That is still all totally stock on my bike 2012 Talon 2. Are you guys bothering to replace that stuff and if so what size bars, etc? Is 780 long enough?
    I still have my Talon 1 2012. Small frame. The only original part is the frame. My stem was shortened to 70mm ( I think ). The bars are longer by 780mm. Change the fork to Recon air-solo. Oh, and I'm 5'7". And still loving it. Now my wife and son are using it now. Coz I also have the new 2017 model in medium size. And man, the medium size fits like a gloves. It's so comfortable to use.

  38. #2638
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    Quote Originally Posted by GeauxLSU View Post
    Hey guys long time no talk. Anyways haven't rode my bike in a little over a year due to work. I brought it in for a tuneup and the bike shop guy asked if I ever thought about shortening my stem and getting longer bars? That is still all totally stock on my bike 2012 Talon 2. Are you guys bothering to replace that stuff and if so what size bars, etc? Is 780 long enough?

    I find 780's to be too long. I'm running 740mm on my Talon and 760mm on my Trance.

  39. #2639
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    Quote Originally Posted by GeauxLSU View Post
    Hey guys long time no talk. Anyways haven't rode my bike in a little over a year due to work. I brought it in for a tuneup and the bike shop guy asked if I ever thought about shortening my stem and getting longer bars? That is still all totally stock on my bike 2012 Talon 2. Are you guys bothering to replace that stuff and if so what size bars, etc? Is 780 long enough?
    Was running 70/740 on my 2011 29 1 before I sold it and still run the same combination on my current bike.

  40. #2640
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    I run 720 with a 60 mm stem on my medium. i have lockons that i have extended 50 mm on each side so really a 730. I also have wide shoulders and that is about perfect for me on this bike. i have 760 on my camber evo (came with the bars) and sometimes i have trouble navigating tighter trails, but it feels great on the fast downhill stuff. 5mm stem on that one.
    p.s. have busted several knuckles hitting trees on the wider bar bike sotake that into account if you ride heavily wooded areas.
    Last edited by peanutz; 08-07-2017 at 06:35 AM.

  41. #2641
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    Quote Originally Posted by GeauxLSU View Post
    Hey guys long time no talk. Anyways haven't rode my bike in a little over a year due to work. I brought it in for a tuneup and the bike shop guy asked if I ever thought about shortening my stem and getting longer bars? That is still all totally stock on my bike 2012 Talon 2. Are you guys bothering to replace that stuff and if so what size bars, etc? Is 780 long enough?
    740mm Handlebar
    40mm Truvative Stem

    I have a small size Talon 3.

  42. #2642
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    picked up my new bike the other day.

    2018 Talon 29er 2. medium frame.

    dont rag on me too hard, bottle cage and seatbag have since been removed.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Talon owners .....-2017-08-12-15.33.07.jpg  


  43. #2643
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    Quote Originally Posted by dansan View Post
    picked up my new bike the other day.

    2018 Talon 29er 2. medium frame.

    dont rag on me too hard, bottle cage and seatbag have since been removed.
    Can you share more close-up pictures of the internal routing cables and the new placement for the rear brake please.

  44. #2644
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    new to the board and mountain biking.. here is my 2018 Giant Talon 3 Med 27.5

    I really like this bike so far

    Ron
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Talon owners .....-img_9982.jpg  


  45. #2645
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    just got the same bike in 29'er. i am enjoying it as well

  46. #2646
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    So, I'm new to mountain biking and I've been riding my 2017 Talon 3 for about 2 months and about 2 weeks ago started to ride more "technical" trails. I'm noticing that I'm not too confident on steep drops with sharp turns because my bike feels too big. When I purchased the bike the guy at the shop suggested a large and since then it looks like Giant actually recommends a medium in the Talon for my height (5'11).

    Has anyone else had an issue with the chosen frame feeling too big? As I said earlier, I'm new to biking... can anyone give me some suggestions on a modification to improve control? I've read that going with a shorter stem could help.

    Thanks in advance.

  47. #2647
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    Quote Originally Posted by mojavi View Post
    So, I'm new to mountain biking and I've been riding my 2017 Talon 3 for about 2 months and about 2 weeks ago started to ride more "technical" trails. I'm noticing that I'm not too confident on steep drops with sharp turns because my bike feels too big. When I purchased the bike the guy at the shop suggested a large and since then it looks like Giant actually recommends a medium in the Talon for my height (5'11).

    Has anyone else had an issue with the chosen frame feeling too big? As I said earlier, I'm new to biking... can anyone give me some suggestions on a modification to improve control? I've read that going with a shorter stem could help.

    Thanks in advance.
    I'm 5'8" and rode a Large, it felt a bit "long" at the beginning but after swapping the stem for a shorter one it was fine. The bike comes with a 90x6 and I went with a 70x6 and 740 bars.

  48. #2648
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    I just got a 2018 talon 3 and the second time I rode it I experienced a nasty chain suck that gouged the frame into the medal.. Not 15 min before I told my wife who was riding with me that I was thing about taking it back to the shop I purchased it from to see about having some adjustments made bc it didn't seem to be switching gears as smoothly as I thought it should. I am very disappointed that after less than 2 hours of seat time my brand new bike is damaged. I'm hoping nothing else is damaged but I guess I will find out tomorrow when I bring it in.
    Should I expect the shop to cover the cost of any damages and repair the paint job being that I was only going 10 mph and slowing down as I was nearing my house? In other words I was not pedaling heavy at all when I switched gears, my bike (and chain) is still as clean as the day I bought it (tires haven't even left the pavement yet).. I mean, should a brand new bike randomly have a chain suck when riding in optimal conditions, on flat pavement, while shifting gears properly, and with a 'fresh out the box' clean and factory lube on the chain? I will walk in with a 'these guys will take care of me' attitude but am I correct to assume the reason for the chain suck (and damage it caused) is most likely due to a component(s) not being adjusted properly when the shop assembled it?

    Btw, other than the chain suck issues I am really liking the bike so far!

  49. #2649
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    On a brand new bike, if it was in fact chain suck, chances are you shifted the front derailleur under load... maybe cross chained a little too. I doubt the bike shop will do much for you to be honest unless you can prove that it's a repeatable issue. It's typically a user induced problem or a slightly bend tooth on your chain ring. Have a good look over all the teeth. If it is a bent tooth, how do you prove to the shop that you didn't roll over something and bend a tooth? I've smashed up a few Raceface NW rings over the past few seasons and bent them.

    Anyways, don't fret about the paint job. It is a mountain bike, and a budget one at that. If you plan on mountain biking proper, it'll have all sorts of scuffs, scrapes and scratches after a few seasons. All my bikes have taken paint damage over the years.

    Good luck with the shop - remember that you catch more flies with honey then vinegar. Don't go in with a shitty attitude and blaming the shop.

  50. #2650
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    Guess I'll speak up here. I bought a 2018 talon 3. It's my get back on the saddle bike. So far I changed the pedals, grips and upgraded the fork via suntour to the raidon which is currently set at 100mm. I've added a chain stay protector too. I'd like to change my travel to 120 but I'm unsure if it will mess up the geo of the frame, secondly I'd really like to go 1x I never use the other gears, so not sure what to buy... I think I'll go tubeless as well (ghetto style of course). Other than that the brake levers suck, they don't adjust and I must pull them pretty far back that it took a chunk of skin off my middle finger knuckle.

  51. #2651
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    Hum, Altus/Acera derailleur, I would have sprung the cash for the Talon 2, just to insure you have stainless components. clean, dry and oil those components!
    Ya, after a couple falls the Tektro brake handle started leaking and needed to get purged often, at least it's easy with the cheap kit you can find on their website.
    I switched to the Shimano SLX to ease the pain when I found a good deal online.
    wait on the 1x, maybe ride out the bike as is and save for a better bike instead of putting a large amount of money in the conversion.
    I'd change the rear derailleur to an SLX or XT Shadow+ if you were to do that, if you can find a compatible cassette, you've got 8 speed cassette now???
    I've got the 2016 Talon 2 + SLX brakes, XT 10-spd Cassette & XT Chain.

  52. #2652
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    Quote Originally Posted by willowbeast View Post
    Guess I'll speak up here. I bought a 2018 talon 3. It's my get back on the saddle bike. So far I changed the pedals, grips and upgraded the fork via suntour to the raidon which is currently set at 100mm. I've added a chain stay protector too. I'd like to change my travel to 120 but I'm unsure if it will mess up the geo of the frame, secondly I'd really like to go 1x I never use the other gears, so not sure what to buy... I think I'll go tubeless as well (ghetto style of course). Other than that the brake levers suck, they don't adjust and I must pull them pretty far back that it took a chunk of skin off my middle finger knuckle.
    Well, you've already got the fork upgraded to an air fork - which saves a fair amount of weight on the Talon typically. I wouldn't change to 120mm. The geos are setup for 100mm and it rides nice there. The only problem with getting a Talon with less then 10spd cassette in the rear means you have to spend a fair amount to swap out to a 1x setup.

    Rear derailleur Shimano SLX Shadow+ 10spd $50
    Shimano SLX M7000 10 Speed Rear Derailleur | Chain Reaction Cycles

    Sunrace MS3 10spd 11-42t Cassette $72
    SunRace MS3 10 Speed Shimano - SRAM Cassette | Chain Reaction Cycles

    Shimano XT 10spd Rear Shifter $28
    Shimano XT M780 10-Speed Trigger Shifter | Chain Reaction Cycles

    Raceface NW chainring $41
    Race Face Narrow Wide Single Chainring | Chain Reaction Cycles

    10spd chain of your choice $25


    So all in, about $216 usd plus whatever shipping and customs fees you accrue. Kind of pricey to go 1x and keep a decent gear range. Considering the bike cost what? $600?

    I do agree though, the tektros kind of suck. I tried them for a bit on my Talon before going to Shimano SLX. The Tektros now live on a commuter bike I threw together. If you are taking skin off, go to 2 finger braking instead of 1 finger.

  53. #2653
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    Wow! Thanks guys for your prompt and detailed messages. Much appreciated. Maybe I'll forgo the 1x , leave the fork alone and perhaps just use the current brakes for a bit longer and try 2 finger. I just like having more fingers on the bar but I'll give it a go. I think the only other change might be an inexpensive Dropper post.

  54. #2654
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    Buying. Talon 2 2018

    I am about to buy a Giant Talon 2 2018. Saw a lot of fans her and would love to interact with you guys.

    Any mtb teams around Dublin which I can join?

  55. #2655
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    hey guys been stalking this thread quite a bit but new poster. I have a 2017 talon 3 and of course am looking to upgrade the fork. was wanting alittle more input on my options for a good straight 1 1/8 fork. or I've heard of the Kane creek adapter deal, just not for sure how exactly it works? does it take the place completely of the lower cup? and is that adapter all you need to run tapered forks?

  56. #2656
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    Planning to get a RockShox REBA next time. So gonna replace the headset..
    Talon owners .....-screenshot_20170919-210002.jpg

  57. #2657
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    soo with this headset you can run any 1.5 to 1 1/8 tapered fork?

    has anyone have any reviews or comments about the Manitou Markhor?

    Manitou Markhor 27.5" Fork | Jenson USA

  58. #2658
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    With the Cane Creek EC44-40, yes you can run a tapered fork on the talon. You need to use a long punch to knock out the old headset (careful to drive it out straight by tapping around the whole assembly in circles). Then you can press in the new lower cup assembly. It can be done ghetto style, rubber mallet and some blocks of wood but a press/vice is much better if you have them available.

    The Markhor seems to be an rebranding of straight steerer, 9mmQR Marvel forks. New Marvels seem to be tapered steerer models only. I've been running a Manitou Marvel on my Talon for a couple seasons now and love the heck out of the fork. Non of my local shops wanted to work on a Manitou so it forced me to order my own oil and seal kits and learn to do it on my own. I'd say it compares very well to the Fox 32's I've had on my other bikes.

  59. #2659
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    okay thanks for the reply. I'm still up in the site about a fork my I don't mind spending as much as 350 on one. soo I'm in between the suntour raidon, the Markhor, and possibly going the cane creek option and going with fox haven't really decided yet.

  60. #2660
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    Talon owners .....-img_0155.jpg


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  61. #2661
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    Talon owners .....-img_0159.jpg


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  62. #2662
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    Has anyone managed to damage the frame from jumping/drops? If so what happened? And did you get a warranty replacement?

  63. #2663
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    Quote Originally Posted by syphen View Post
    On a brand new bike, if it was in fact chain suck, chances are you shifted the front derailleur under load... maybe cross chained a little too. I doubt the bike shop will do much for you to be honest unless you can prove that it's a repeatable issue. It's typically a user induced problem or a slightly bend tooth on your chain ring. Have a good look over all the teeth. If it is a bent tooth, how do you prove to the shop that you didn't roll over something and bend a tooth? I've smashed up a few Raceface NW rings over the past few seasons and bent them.

    Anyways, don't fret about the paint job. It is a mountain bike, and a budget one at that. If you plan on mountain biking proper, it'll have all sorts of scuffs, scrapes and scratches after a few seasons. All my bikes have taken paint damage over the years.

    Good luck with the shop - remember that you catch more flies with honey then vinegar. Don't go in with a shitty attitude and blaming the shop.
    Yes it most definitely was a chain suck and no I was not pedaling under load. As I mentioned once before I was traveling *maybe* 10mph and slowing down. Unless I'm mistaken and not loading the pedals qualifies as pedal loading? Also, I was not shifting wildly or anything else crazy either. Shifted 1 time and suck... Brought it to the bike shop and they couldn't find anything on the chain ring (burs or bends) same with the chain. But they replaced the chain as a precaution. Also, just because my bike likely costs several grand less than your fancy ride doesn't make you sound like any less of an ass calling a $500 bike a 'budget' bike.. $500 plus dollars is a lot of money to spend on a bike for those of us that don't *live* for super extreme mountain bikes & trail riding all day every day. For the purpose of staying in shape with the option of maybe hitting a trail every now and again $500 bucks is a fair amount to spend on a bike.

    Anyway...

    So, I took it out last night for the first time since and about 15 min into my ride it happens again.. Same gear, same set of circumstances except I was going even slower (maybe 5mph) as my wife and I decided which way we wanted to go. Again no excessive load on the pedals, I was not zipping through the gears or doing *anything* to cause a chain suck. Clicked to change gears and suck. Same as last time. The bike shop was more than willing to take a look at it last time but ultimately couldn't find the cause. It's obvious now there is an issue with my bike.. How could there now be for this to happen 2 times in less then an hour of seat time *without any excessive pedal load* on a flat paved road in ideal conditions on a brand new bike? Im not hating on the talon 3 line, just the bike I have. I don't trust taking it down the street so obviously taking it on a trail ride (off road...what it was designed for) is totally out of the question. Unless I intend to strand myself.
    Frankly I don't care whether or not the shop can fix it bc at this point I just dont trust the damn thing anymore! The defect (whatever it may be) has caused damage 2 times now gouging the same spot on the frame. How many gouges does it take to weaken the frame? *rhetorical* obviously there is no definitive answer to that question, but that's the point! Might take a thousand chain strikes or a few really nasty ones...... Point being I have a brand new bike I literally can not ride nor do I *trust* to ride bc of chain suck issues and damage caused from it. I just hope the bike shop sees it the same way...

  64. #2664
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    Sorry to hear of your troubles. I have a t3 as well and have no issues. Have your derailleurs been properly tuned? Is the chain possibly stretched, have you tried a new chain? I'd go over all the teeth to be sure none are damaged. I know my large front chain ring has hit many items. Not a big deal for me as I never use it. Don't let your lbs off the hook. They put the bike together leave it there until it's figured out.

  65. #2665
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    I have not been on a Mountain bike since 2004. Today I picked up a 2014 Giant Talon 5 27.5 for $160. Looking forward to getting out and riding.

  66. #2666
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    Quote Originally Posted by _RomE_ View Post
    Also, just because my bike likely costs several grand less than your fancy ride doesn't make you sound like any less of an ass calling a $500 bike a 'budget' bike.. $500 plus dollars is a lot of money to spend on a bike for those of us that don't *live* for super extreme mountain bikes & trail riding all day every day. For the purpose of staying in shape with the option of maybe hitting a trail every now and again $500 bucks is a fair amount to spend on a bike.
    I ride a Talon as well. I'm not being an ass, I'm being honest. The Talon is considered a budget entry mtb, and it's one that I recommend to people often who are looking at getting into trail riding. Sorry if you don't like hearing that. It's not an insult. Lets be truthful to ourselves, a spade is a spade.

    How many gouges? Post a pic of these gouges. I'd love to see this damage. I've never seen chainsuck damage a frame to the point of weakening the aluminum. Just paint scuffs.

    My point was that you sounded angry in your post and that you need to be positive and grateful with the shop employees you deal with to try and get help, not angry. Like I said, it needs to be repeatable. If I'm a bike mechanic/shop owner.. I'd need to see the problem. I'd tell you to bring the bike in and ride it around the lot doing EXACTLY what you are doing to cause the problem. If they've looked over everything and it's all good and in spec - and replaced the chain, well its possible its a user error. Sorry you don't want to hear it. You'd rather call me an ass.

    In the end just ditch your front derailleur and go 1x. Problem solved. Otherwise, enjoy your buyers remorse and keep complaining on the internet because that will get you far.

  67. #2667
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    Re Chainsuck,
    Does it still have that yukky sticky original chain lube?
    My chain was a sticky mess after my first ride, horrible crap, same when I changed my chain, the shit Shimano uses when packing the chains.
    It needs to be thoroughly cleaned and re-lubed.

  68. #2668
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    Quote Originally Posted by Luc-514 View Post
    Re Chainsuck,
    Does it still have that yukky sticky original chain lube?
    My chain was a sticky mess after my first ride, horrible crap, same when I changed my chain, the shit Shimano uses when packing the chains.
    It needs to be thoroughly cleaned and re-lubed.
    I wash my bike after every ride. So no problem here. Just a tip. If it's your first time to ride your bike, take that time to feel what you need to adjust. Coz most entry level bike will not come out from the box perfect. My 2012 Talon now only left is the original frame. My 2017 Talon. So far only upgraded the the drivetrain system. Break system plus a Reverb (my giant Reign is just another different beast). And yes, all this babies needs a proper wash lube every ride. If younwant your bike to last longer and give you a pleasurable rides.

  69. #2669
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    Quote Originally Posted by Luc-514 View Post
    Does it still have that yukky sticky original chain lube?
    You should have cleaned the chain before use, that sticky substance is to prevent rust in the package, is not lube.

  70. #2670
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    Quote Originally Posted by fba0861 View Post
    bit the 1x bullet. Click image for larger version. 

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    1x9
    11-40t Sunrace
    34t Deckas Narrow Wide
    Was it hard to do? what did you do? I see you bought the Sunrace and Deckas, what else was involved? is that the original crank/arms?

  71. #2671
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    Quote Originally Posted by willowbeast View Post
    Was it hard to do? what did you do? I see you bought the Sunrace and Deckas, what else was involved? is that the original crank/arms?
    Doesn't look like the original crankset or bottom bracket from a Talon - that appears to be a hollowtech bottom bracket and cranks. Most Talons up till the last year or two came with Shimano Octalink bottom brackets and cranks (which are just fancy square taper really). Swapping out to a hollowtech threaded bottom bracket and crankset saves a ton of weight. 262g vs 85g (Shimano octalink vs Raceface Turbine X-Type BB).

    Otherwise, it's easy if you have the tools. You'll need:a chain whip, casette removal tool, chain breaker, allen keys, chainring nut wrench (unless you use a crankset thats drilled and tapped), and a phillips screw driver.

    1) Break the chain and remove.
    2) Remove rear wheel. Use chainwhip, and casette removal tool to pull the casette off the hub.
    3) Install new casette using casette removal tool and then reinstall rear wheel on bike.
    4) Use chainring nut wrench and allen keys to remove existing rings off cranks. Install new NW chain ring on appropriate position on cranks. Usually the middle 104BCD position for triple cranks. Depending on the cranks and chainrings, this can sometimes be done ON the bike but some sets may not have clearance to remove the rings off cranks and will need you to remove them from the bike.
    5) Install new chain - preferably with a quicklink master. Clean it, lube it.
    6) Using phillips screw driver, adjust B tension, and limit screws to match shifting to the new cassette as required.
    7) Drink beer.

  72. #2672
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    Thank you. #7 has me frightened....

  73. #2673
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    When I went 1x10 on my 2015 Talon with 11-42 sunrace, SLX clutch RD with the longer B screw, it shifted like crap. Had to get the goatlink.

  74. #2674
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    Quote Originally Posted by C8N View Post
    When I went 1x10 on my 2015 Talon with 11-42 sunrace, SLX clutch RD with the longer B screw, it shifted like crap. Had to get the goatlink.
    Yeah, the SLX and XT 10spd RD's can really only handle up to a 40t. Once you go to 42t, the shifting is spotty at best. The goatlink solved this, and you don't even need the longer B screw. I think this has been known for a bit. I used the same as you SLX Shadow + on my Talon and then an XT Shadow Plus on my Trance. Used a goatlink on both.

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