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  1. #901
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    Quote Originally Posted by MTB_Dozer View Post
    your correct about the lower the level number-better everything - no disagreement there...I was just trying to compare the two models, the reviews from owners, from different bike organizations, research.
    True dat... Good deal, too. Good thing you're keeping up on it via reading and research. I like to do the same as well, if/when possible. Knowledge/information is power.

    Typically, with Giant's level numbers, the lower the number, the better fork, brakes, and drive train components. I think other things, like handlebar, stem, saddle, pedals, grips, etc., likely don't change at all or very little anyway (at least throughout the same series; i.e., Talon). The wheelsets probably stay the same, also. The "meat-n-potatoes" are in those other major components/systems though, and they are what gets most consumers excited, for the most part.

    With a lower level component kit, you get to save money on the initial purchase and then swap out to fancier components as time goes on. I didn't do that though. I went for the highest level Talon I could get, and have since spent lots of money swapping out half of what's on the bike. I continue to justify my noobish mistake by telling myself there's no way I could've lived with any other frame choice than my shiny black one with cool baby blue/silver Giant-branded stickers! LOL...

  2. #902
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    After taking a quick look at the specs the bikes share the same frame and that's where the similarities end.

    The Talon 27.5 1 has far better components than the 27.5 4 but agree that at double the cost might be a reasonable purchase with upgrading in mind; the 1 cost almost doubles the cost of the 4.

    Main differences, drivetrain (Deore/XT 10spd vs Altus/Alivio 9spd, brakes (Shimano hydro vs Tektro mechs), wheels, fork, cranks, tires.

  3. #903
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    Talon owners .....

    Quote Originally Posted by DiRt DeViL View Post
    (Shimano hydro vs Tektro mechs), wheels, fork, cranks, tires.
    My 4 came with Tektro hydros, not mechs.
    Ride it into the ground.

  4. #904
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    Quote Originally Posted by DiRt DeViL View Post
    After taking a quick look at the specs the bikes share the same frame and that's where the similarities end.

    The Talon 27.5 1 has far better components than the 27.5 4 but agree that at double the cost might be a reasonable purchase with upgrading in mind; the 1 cost almost doubles the cost of the 4.

    Main differences, drivetrain (Deore/XT 10spd vs Altus/Alivio 9spd, brakes (Shimano hydro vs Tektro mechs), wheels, fork, cranks, tires.
    Hey DD...I agree what you're saying - that's true. Have to consider the cost, the components, and, the upgrades-changes down the road. Again, after careful research, and reviews/ratings that the talon 4 had, I went with this type of bike - I figured it out that I can easily make upgrades on this bike and come out ahead of the type 1-model - no disrespect to the Talon 1. Also, I want to thank you DD very much for the information you provide - most appreciative.

  5. #905
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    Quote Originally Posted by dshoe70 View Post
    True dat... Good deal, too. Good thing you're keeping up on it via reading and research. I like to do the same as well, if/when possible. Knowledge/information is power.

    Typically, with Giant's level numbers, the lower the number, the better fork, brakes, and drive train components. I think other things, like handlebar, stem, saddle, pedals, grips, etc., likely don't change at all or very little anyway (at least throughout the same series; i.e., Talon). The wheelsets probably stay the same, also. The "meat-n-potatoes" are in those other major components/systems though, and they are what gets most consumers excited, for the most part.

    With a lower level component kit, you get to save money on the initial purchase and then swap out to fancier components as time goes on. I didn't do that though. I went for the highest level Talon I could get, and have since spent lots of money swapping out half of what's on the bike. I continue to justify my noobish mistake by telling myself there's no way I could've lived with any other frame choice than my shiny black one with cool baby blue/silver Giant-branded stickers! LOL...
    Thank you dshoe - at one point I almost purchased the talon 27.5-1
    We also, live and learn as we go from noobs to say veteran bikers....

    can you tell me as to what type of front forks/shocks that you may have upgraded on your 27.5-1?

  6. #906
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    What is the "noobish mistake" - buying the less expensive bike and upgrading or buying the better one? I need some clarity as I'm about to buy one or the other ... unless someone persuades me the Trek Superfly 29 is better.

  7. #907
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bruce in SoCal View Post
    What is the "noobish mistake" - buying the less expensive bike and upgrading or buying the better one? I need some clarity as I'm about to buy one or the other ... unless someone persuades me the Trek Superfly 29 is better.
    The noobish mistake I was referring to is what I've done with my bike over time. When I bought mine, I wanted the best I could get (aka the best component level) (aka Giant's lowest level number). So, I bought a brand new 2012 Giant Talon 0. I think it was around $1200, OTD. On the day I bought my bike, I also rode the Level 1. I think it was around $900, if I recall correctly. I don't remember if there was a level even lower, but there might have been.

    With the Giant Talon, you buy a Giant Talon. All you really need to know other than that is what size to get, and how fancy do you want it (aka level number). Size doesn't have a monetary value to it. Level number does. All Talons use the same frame (from what I've heard). The frames are only different in look (color and stickers).

    So, why are you buying a Talon to begin with? What do you expect to use it for? How long do you plan to keep it? Do you plan to keep it as-is, or do you think maybe you'll upgrade things on it?

    For me, I bought the best in the Talon line-up. I was a noob. My first real mountain bike. Was I happy that I did, and happy with it? ABSOLUTELY! Did I keep it in its stock form? ABSOLUTELY NOT! LOL... I've already mentioned elsewhere on MTBR about having well over $3K into my Talon. Now, it's more like +/- $3,700. Why? Because I have a severe case of bike-specific "retail therapy." LOL... Upgrading is FUN! Did I intend to do that in the beginning? Nope... I found out over time that that's the avenue I wanted to take. With what I've done, and still plan to do, I could've had a "finished" Talon that would be no different than Level 0 versus Level 4, except for frame color and stickers. In other words, I could've bought the cheapest Talon I could get at the time, and still have the exact same build of bike that I'm going to have when I'm done (except color and stickers). Cheaper money initially would've saved me more money to go toward components. I do love my shiny black frame with cool baby blue/silver Giant-branded stickers though! LOL...

    Hindsight... ALWAYS 20/20!

    If you want Talon, then by all means do it. Just try to know, as best you can, where you're headed with it from here. If you're just testing the waters and anything will do, get the cheaper one. If you plan to keep it only a year or so at most, get the cheaper one. If you have any inkling whatsoever that you may contract that disease I mentioned above (upgrade-itis), get the cheaper one (if you can live with the frame color/stickers of course). If you want the best Talon you can get, and ride it and be done with it, get the most expensive one you can afford.

  8. #908
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    Quote Originally Posted by MTB_Dozer View Post
    Thank you dshoe - at one point I almost purchased the talon 27.5-1
    We also, live and learn as we go from noobs to say veteran bikers....

    can you tell me as to what type of front forks/shocks that you may have upgraded on your 27.5-1?
    My Talon is a 2012 29er 0 model. I went with a Rock Shox Reba RL on mine. The Recon Gold TK is a good choice, too. Have only heard great things about the Manitou Tower Pro and Expert. I looked into trying to go with the Manitou, but it didn't work out for me. Others have mentioned a few models by Marzocchi being a really good choice.

  9. #909
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    Thanks for the clarification. It has helped me immensely. Long ago I outgrew the need to buy something and then change it. Now, I buy it the way I want it and use it as it is, replacing parts when they get old or become unsafe (except in the case of my boat, when they make me uncompetitive). However, I still occasionally use "retail therapy," but I know it is just therapy and not necessity.

    My plan is to keep the bike for as long as I'm able to ride bikes. I do not foresee any developments in the cycling world that would render it obsolete for the riding I do or plan to do.

    I am pretty sure that the "4" would be more than adequate for me and that I would not need to electively upgrade anything. However, I just feel like getting the "1" -- which I will probably do after testing one more bike.

    Again, thanks

  10. #910
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bruce in SoCal View Post
    Thanks for the clarification. It has helped me immensely. Long ago I outgrew the need to buy something and then change it. Now, I buy it the way I want it and use it as it is, replacing parts when they get old or become unsafe (except in the case of my boat, when they make me uncompetitive). However, I still occasionally use "retail therapy," but I know it is just therapy and not necessity.

    My plan is to keep the bike for as long as I'm able to ride bikes. I do not foresee any developments in the cycling world that would render it obsolete for the riding I do or plan to do.

    I am pretty sure that the "4" would be more than adequate for me and that I would not need to electively upgrade anything. However, I just feel like getting the "1" -- which I will probably do after testing one more bike.

    Again, thanks
    Sounds good... Be careful on other points, too. Over time, I found that upgrading some expensive components for me became more of a necessity, than a desire. Two things I upgraded not long ago are the brakes and wheelset. Those two purchases alone were about the same price as my whole bike was. One major thing that made me want Talon 0 over Talon 1 was the brakes. My Talon 0 came with Avid Elixir 1's. At first, they were fine. Later on, they became unbearable. They had to be replaced. I got too tired of scaring the hell outta everyone on the trails (the obnoxious noise)! LOL... So, in the end, I ended up having to spend more money on better brakes anyway; something that almost certainly would've happened anyway, had I bought cheaper versus more expensive component level. My OEM wheels proved to be more flexy than I wanted, too. I'm a Clyde, and didn't learn that (the wheel issue) until later on. So, I guess what I'm saying then is.............you can buy as expensive as you want, but you "may" find that even that isn't good enough somewhere down the road, and then be forced to upgrade anyway (if you want to keep using the bike).

    Everything on my bike is different now, except drive train and headset. Headset is getting changed real soon; just haven't gotten around to it, yet. Drive train? I'm trying my best to resist, but oh it would be so much fun! LOL... Anyone else get those emails yesterday from PricePoint and Giant Nerd, talking about the current, big Shimano components sales?! Don't you think for even one second that I haven't already filled my shopping carts, checking prices, etc. LOL...

    So, if you can, try to look ahead and make sure that even the Level 1 is going to be able to handle your needs, with its components, well into the future and that you won't need to upgrade major things regardless. If you realize that may be true, then you'd likely be better off going with the cheaper bike initially and getting even better components than Level 1 offers later on.

  11. #911
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    I'm already 56 years old and it is unlikely that I will ever need more bike than what I'll be getting. I may break things or wear them out, in which case I'll replace them, perhaps with something "better." But, I do not foresee elective upgrades ... except possibly tubeless.

  12. #912
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    Quote Originally Posted by dshoe70 View Post
    My Talon is a 2012 29er 0 model. I went with a Rock Shox Reba RL on mine. The Recon Gold TK is a good choice, too. Have only heard great things about the Manitou Tower Pro and Expert. I looked into trying to go with the Manitou, but it didn't work out for me. Others have mentioned a few models by Marzocchi being a really good choice.
    +1 on this.
    The Reba is more than likely going to be one of the better regarded forks you can upgrade to within a certain budget. I went with the Recon Gold because I got it for $238 (new)...couldn't pass up that deal, plus I shaved off 2.2lbs over the stock boat anchor.
    The biggest piece of advice I have for buying upgrades (especially a fork) is BE PATIENT. You will definitely find deals. The Recon Gold deal was around for several weeks, and really nice deals pop up all the time. Don't go pulling the trigger on a fork just because it's within your budget. Be patient and shop around. You'll find a great fork (or other upgrade) at a great price...promise!

  13. #913
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bruce in SoCal View Post
    I'm already 56 years old and it is unlikely that I will ever need more bike than what I'll be getting. I may break things or wear them out, in which case I'll replace them, perhaps with something "better." But, I do not foresee elective upgrades ... except possibly tubeless.

    I would suggest the 27.5 Talon 1, because it has a better fork, crank, RD and brakes than the Talon 4. As a result, it is a couple of pounds lighter and more fun to ride.

    At age 56, two years my junior, you should get what you want.

    My experience with the Talon 1 is similar to dshoe. I have about $2,500-2,700 into my Talon 1, including the tubeless wheels, which have three rides totaling 18 miles on them. There are a couple of posts a few pages above that are me going through the process of upgrading.

    Best of luck with your new ride, whichever way you go.

  14. #914
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    Quote Originally Posted by wacobkr View Post
    My 4 came with Tektro hydros, not mechs.
    My Talon 4 also came with Tektro hydros.

    There is a review of the Talon 4 by Bikeradar which gave it 4 out of 5 stars, stating the 4 has "Confident handling and respectable components in an entry-level package"

    Review here Giant Talon 27.5 4 review - BikeRadar

  15. #915
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    Quote Originally Posted by dshoe70 View Post
    The noobish mistake I was referring to is what I've done with my bike over time. When I bought mine, I wanted the best I could get (aka the best component level) (aka Giant's lowest level number). So, I bought a brand new 2012 Giant Talon 0. I think it was around $1200, OTD. On the day I bought my bike, I also rode the Level 1. I think it was around $900, if I recall correctly. I don't remember if there was a level even lower, but there might have been.

    With the Giant Talon, you buy a Giant Talon. All you really need to know other than that is what size to get, and how fancy do you want it (aka level number). Size doesn't have a monetary value to it. Level number does. All Talons use the same frame (from what I've heard). The frames are only different in look (color and stickers).

    So, why are you buying a Talon to begin with? What do you expect to use it for? How long do you plan to keep it? Do you plan to keep it as-is, or do you think maybe you'll upgrade things on it?

    For me, I bought the best in the Talon line-up. I was a noob. My first real mountain bike. Was I happy that I did, and happy with it? ABSOLUTELY! Did I keep it in its stock form? ABSOLUTELY NOT! LOL... I've already mentioned elsewhere on MTBR about having well over $3K into my Talon. Now, it's more like +/- $3,700. Why? Because I have a severe case of bike-specific "retail therapy." LOL... Upgrading is FUN! Did I intend to do that in the beginning? Nope... I found out over time that that's the avenue I wanted to take. With what I've done, and still plan to do, I could've had a "finished" Talon that would be no different than Level 0 versus Level 4, except for frame color and stickers. In other words, I could've bought the cheapest Talon I could get at the time, and still have the exact same build of bike that I'm going to have when I'm done (except color and stickers). Cheaper money initially would've saved me more money to go toward components. I do love my shiny black frame with cool baby blue/silver Giant-branded stickers though! LOL...

    Hindsight... ALWAYS 20/20!

    If you want Talon, then by all means do it. Just try to know, as best you can, where you're headed with it from here. If you're just testing the waters and anything will do, get the cheaper one. If you plan to keep it only a year or so at most, get the cheaper one. If you have any inkling whatsoever that you may contract that disease I mentioned above (upgrade-itis), get the cheaper one (if you can live with the frame color/stickers of course). If you want the best Talon you can get, and ride it and be done with it, get the most expensive one you can afford.

    very well said......

  16. #916
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    Quote Originally Posted by dshoe70 View Post
    My Talon is a 2012 29er 0 model. I went with a Rock Shox Reba RL on mine. The Recon Gold TK is a good choice, too. Have only heard great things about the Manitou Tower Pro and Expert. I looked into trying to go with the Manitou, but it didn't work out for me. Others have mentioned a few models by Marzocchi being a really good choice.
    Thank you for the information; and will have to check them out.
    I am unfamiliar with Marzocchi...little knowledge on the Manitou....I am more partial to either FOX or Rock Shox

  17. #917
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    Quote Originally Posted by GelatiCruiser View Post
    +1 on this.
    The Reba is more than likely going to be one of the better regarded forks you can upgrade to within a certain budget. I went with the Recon Gold because I got it for $238 (new)...couldn't pass up that deal, plus I shaved off 2.2lbs over the stock boat anchor.
    The biggest piece of advice I have for buying upgrades (especially a fork) is BE PATIENT. You will definitely find deals. The Recon Gold deal was around for several weeks, and really nice deals pop up all the time. Don't go pulling the trigger on a fork just because it's within your budget. Be patient and shop around. You'll find a great fork (or other upgrade) at a great price...promise!
    I like what you're saying here. I almost purchased a front shock last month price was good, then saw another shock item that was better, so, I held off for time being until I investigated front shocks more and decide on choosing the better one for me.

  18. #918
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    We have 2 2011 Talon 1's at home.

    The first one (Medium) paid $975 and immediately started changing things, changed the cranks (SLX), changed the seatpost, stem, handlebar, seat (Selle Italia ProLink), fork (Marzocchi 44 TST2), seat clamp (Salsa), headset, derailleur pulleys, tires (Rapid Rob) and the bike felt even better but my son took it away and for this season he's sporting Mavic CrossRide wheels. The changes that really made a difference in performance and weight where the wheels, cranks and fork; the bike feels great and he loves it.

    The second one (Large) was a trade for an old beaten down but well specd Reign X1 and it also has suffered changes, crankset (Stylo GXP), seatpost, stem, handlebar, grips, seat (Selle Italia ProLink), fork (Reba RLT), seat clamp, derailleur pulleys and headset. Again the big changers fork and cranks.

    Other than the frame we kept the Root hydros and X5 components, they perform as expected and will be replaced when worn down or broken.

    Can relate to buying the most bike within your budget and that's why I usually do but sometimes is better to save some cash on the whole bike and immediately start upgrading what you don't like with the money you saved, the problem is that some components could be even more expensive than the whole bike when purchased afterwards. A good example is the fork, would you pay $1000 for a Fox when your whole bike is about $700? I wouldn't, got the 44 for less than $300 and the Reba for less than $500 on eBay and to cover the cost of the Reba sold my trusted NRS1. Would love to upgrade the drivetrain to 2x10 but that brings the same scenario, an expensive upgrade to a "cheap" bike and don't get me wrong the Talon is here to stay but can't justify such an upgrade at this time.

  19. #919
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    Quote Originally Posted by DiRt DeViL View Post
    We have 2 2011 Talon 1's at home.

    The first one (Medium) paid $975 and immediately started changing things, changed the cranks (SLX), changed the seatpost, stem, handlebar, seat (Selle Italia ProLink), fork (Marzocchi 44 TST2), seat clamp (Salsa), headset, derailleur pulleys, tires (Rapid Rob) and the bike felt even better but my son took it away and for this season he's sporting Mavic CrossRide wheels. The changes that really made a difference in performance and weight where the wheels, cranks and fork; the bike feels great and he loves it.

    The second one (Large) was a trade for an old beaten down but well specd Reign X1 and it also has suffered changes, crankset (Stylo GXP), seatpost, stem, handlebar, grips, seat (Selle Italia ProLink), fork (Reba RLT), seat clamp, derailleur pulleys and headset. Again the big changers fork and cranks.

    Other than the frame we kept the Root hydros and X5 components, they perform as expected and will be replaced when worn down or broken.

    Can relate to buying the most bike within your budget and that's why I usually do but sometimes is better to save some cash on the whole bike and immediately start upgrading what you don't like with the money you saved, the problem is that some components could be even more expensive than the whole bike when purchased afterwards. A good example is the fork, would you pay $1000 for a Fox when your whole bike is about $700? I wouldn't, got the 44 for less than $300 and the Reba for less than $500 on eBay and to cover the cost of the Reba sold my trusted NRS1. Would love to upgrade the drivetrain to 2x10 but that brings the same scenario, an expensive upgrade to a "cheap" bike and don't get me wrong the Talon is here to stay but can't justify such an upgrade at this time.

    Hey DD...a very good point - and, well said. Is your bike a 29er or 27.5? Again, everything comes down to money-cost, a budget, what you are willing to pay, and willing to make any changes/upgrades, etc.
    As for me...I purchased my bike new in Jan 2014.
    (just my opinion) > I chose the 4-model because I liked the bike, the cost for the bike could not go wrong (reviews were good). I figured it out, that for the upgrades-parts I could save money here and there (many companies have sales on parts at good prices). I will ride the bike with stock items for now, get a feel of the bike more - see what changes you want to make, and, until parts start to wear, > then proceed to make big changes - just like you said in your post (I like your ideas-concept).

  20. #920
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    Quote Originally Posted by MTB_Dozer View Post
    Hey DD...a very good point - and, well said. Is your bike a 29er or 27.5? Again, everything comes down to money-cost, a budget, what you are willing to pay, and willing to make any changes/upgrades, etc.
    As for me...I purchased my bike new in Jan 2014.
    (just my opinion) > I chose the 4-model because I liked the bike, the cost for the bike could not go wrong (reviews were good). I figured it out, that for the upgrades-parts I could save money here and there (many companies have sales on parts at good prices). I will ride the bike with stock items for now, get a feel of the bike more - see what changes you want to make, and, until parts start to wear, > then proceed to make big changes - just like you said in your post (I like your ideas-concept).
    Mine are 29er (no 27.5 Talon on 2011) but if I were to do it again would go 27.5.

    I hear you, look for bargain basement, closeouts, take offs and even used from buddies that are constantly upgrading to the latest and greatest.

    This are our bikes without the latest changes

  21. #921
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    Quote Originally Posted by DiRt DeViL View Post
    Mine are 29er (no 27.5 Talon on 2011) but if I were to do it again would go 27.5.

    I hear you, look for bargain basement, closeouts, take offs and even used from buddies that are constantly upgrading to the latest and greatest.

    This are our bikes without the latest changes
    Nice...great looking bikes for sure. I cant really tell, you run flats or clipless?
    Hey, I will Pm you in moment.....
    thanks

  22. #922
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    Quote Originally Posted by MTB_Dozer View Post
    Nice...great looking bikes for sure. I cant really tell, you run flats or clipless?
    Hey, I will Pm you in moment.....
    thanks
    Clipless

  23. #923
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    Quote Originally Posted by DiRt DeViL View Post
    Clipless
    I was running clipless, now have flats. I may go back to clipless soon

  24. #924
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    Quote Originally Posted by MTB_Dozer View Post
    Thank you for the information; and will have to check them out.
    I am unfamiliar with Marzocchi...little knowledge on the Manitou....I am more partial to either FOX or Rock Shox
    After all the good things I read about em', I tried to find the love for Manitou around here but it just wasn't happening. And, Marzocchi was even worse. All the LBSs I spoke with told me to stick with either of the two big players in the industry: Fox and Rock Shox. Actually, they told me not to even bother with Fox, for similar reasons as DiRt DeViL mentioned (too expensive and not really warranted/relevant for a Talon hardtail bike).

    I've done a little reading on the Fox versus Rock Shox debate, too. It seems as though most people say Rock Shox has better CS, and their products are easier to maintain, also. All I needed to know was there was no way I was going to put a +/- $1K fork on a +/- $1K whole bike! Fox doesn't make anything more economical and befitting of the Talon, so I'd shy away from them if I were you.

  25. #925
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    Quote Originally Posted by DiRt DeViL View Post
    We have 2 2011 Talon 1's at home.

    The first one (Medium) paid $975 and immediately started changing things, changed the cranks (SLX), changed the seatpost, stem, handlebar, seat (Selle Italia ProLink), fork (Marzocchi 44 TST2), seat clamp (Salsa), headset, derailleur pulleys, tires (Rapid Rob) and the bike felt even better but my son took it away and for this season he's sporting Mavic CrossRide wheels. The changes that really made a difference in performance and weight where the wheels, cranks and fork; the bike feels great and he loves it.

    The second one (Large) was a trade for an old beaten down but well specd Reign X1 and it also has suffered changes, crankset (Stylo GXP), seatpost, stem, handlebar, grips, seat (Selle Italia ProLink), fork (Reba RLT), seat clamp, derailleur pulleys and headset. Again the big changers fork and cranks.

    Other than the frame we kept the Root hydros and X5 components, they perform as expected and will be replaced when worn down or broken.

    Can relate to buying the most bike within your budget and that's why I usually do but sometimes is better to save some cash on the whole bike and immediately start upgrading what you don't like with the money you saved, the problem is that some components could be even more expensive than the whole bike when purchased afterwards. A good example is the fork, would you pay $1000 for a Fox when your whole bike is about $700? I wouldn't, got the 44 for less than $300 and the Reba for less than $500 on eBay and to cover the cost of the Reba sold my trusted NRS1. Would love to upgrade the drivetrain to 2x10 but that brings the same scenario, an expensive upgrade to a "cheap" bike and don't get me wrong the Talon is here to stay but can't justify such an upgrade at this time.
    Very well said! What is it about the different cranksets that makes you say they provide a big difference? Weight? Performance? Smoothness? Longevity? All of the above?

    I'm dying to pull the trigger on a complete Shimano XT 2x10 drive train; especially with the current components sales that are going on. I priced out a full package (less brakes; already have those) for around $616. That's a lot of money. My existing drive train is original OEM stuff from initial purchase. It's pushing three years old now, too. I keep telling myself to just wait on the new drive train, and I'll have a real need for it soon enough (with old wearing out more). So, that's probably what I'll end up doing. At least I have the research part done, and know what I want when the time comes. I still haven't done that headset upgrade, either, but it's cheap. So, I'll likely do it within the next month or so, before the spring riding season hits.

    Those white bikes, with dominantly black components, you have look really nice, also!

  26. #926
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    Quote Originally Posted by dshoe70 View Post
    Very well said! What is it about the different cranksets that makes you say they provide a big difference? Weight? Performance? Smoothness? Longevity? All of the above?

    I'm dying to pull the trigger on a complete Shimano XT 2x10 drive train; especially with the current components sales that are going on. I priced out a full package (less brakes; already have those) for around $616. That's a lot of money. My existing drive train is original OEM stuff from initial purchase. It's pushing three years old now, too. I keep telling myself to just wait on the new drive train, and I'll have a real need for it soon enough (with old wearing out more). So, that's probably what I'll end up doing. At least I have the research part done, and know what I want when the time comes. I still haven't done that headset upgrade, either, but it's cheap. So, I'll likely do it within the next month or so, before the spring riding season hits.

    Those white bikes, with dominantly black components, you have look really nice, also!
    Our Talons came with a Shimano 3 piece crankset, the bb was the worse offender. It was heavy, felt like grinding and felt like it was loose; it was the fault of the plastic cups under pressure. With a 2 piece crank and external bearings all those issues went away, the bike felt alive and lighter. Having said that the Shimano bearings are outliving the Truvativ by a couple of seasons; they have been on my son's Talon since 2011 and going strong while I have gone thru 2 Truvativs.

  27. #927
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    Anyone here have any experience with Sun Ringle rims on their talon? I have a '12 Talon 2...looking into getting a set of the Charger Comps. I think ANYTHING over the stock set would be an upgrade, but am wondering what others' experiences were.

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    Quote Originally Posted by GelatiCruiser View Post
    Anyone here have any experience with Sun Ringle rims on their talon? I have a '12 Talon 2...looking into getting a set of the Charger Comps. I think ANYTHING over the stock set would be an upgrade, but am wondering what others' experiences were.
    Dunno... My new wheelset has Stans Flows EX rims. Stans and Sunringles are hand-n-hand, supposedly. Looks like the Charger series is designed for trail/AM use. So, they likely are the equivalent to the Flows, or at least close enough. Depends on what you wanna do with them, how you intend to ride them, and how big a person you are. I went with those new Stans because I'm a big boy (250ish all decked out), and they're a beefy rim. Definite improvement over the Giant OEM wheelset, too. Looks like the Comp version might be the lower end of the Charger series. Dunno what that means exactly, as far as quality/strength/longevity is concerned. You looking at whole wheelset, or just rims? If whole wheelset, what kinda price are you seeing on the Sunringle set? I bought Hope Hoops wheelset, with Stans Flow EX, Hope Pro 2 Evo hubs, and Sappim spokes/nipples. The set last fall was barely over $400. Around first of this year, I noticed they had gone up about $100 more. If +/- $500 is in the same price range as the Sunringle set you're looking at, you might consider the Hope Hoops set, also, as another alternative. Only other wheelset I considered before I bought mine was the Azonic Outlaw set. Think it's around four bills, too, and seems to get decent reviews. Anyway, more directly related to your question... I bet those Sunringles would be really nice.

  29. #929
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    Mainly trail use. Looking to save a little weight, go tubeless and stiffen up the wheels. I'm 180-185 decked out. Seeing them with sealant and tubeless valves for just over $200.

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    Quote Originally Posted by GelatiCruiser View Post
    Mainly trail use. Looking to save a little weight, go tubeless and stiffen up the wheels. I'm 180-185 decked out. Seeing them with sealant and tubeless valves for just over $200.
    Sounds like an awesome deal! Sounds like they'd be a great set-up for your size and use, too. Others, in different threads, seem to like them a lot as well. I've never used them, but knowing that Sunringles and Stans are more or less the same thing, and me really loving my Stans so far, I'd say go for it; especially at that kind of price point. Like you said, if you're still running the OEM set, then I bet you'll likely see a big, positive difference in the Sunringle set.

  31. #931
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    gelati, where are you finding them for $200?

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    Talon owners .....-photo-2.jpgHi, can you tell me how many s-xc2 29 wheel set weights? Here's my Talon I plan to change fork to RS Reba dual air white & XT wheel set. Actually it weights only 12,8kg! What do you think about my talon?

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    Quote Originally Posted by fishwrinkle View Post
    gelati, where are you finding them for $200?
    Nashbar has them for $249.99 and 20% off through tomorrow. Thread about it in the "Best Deals" subforum.

  34. #934
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    nice, thx!

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    Chargers come with Stan's rim tape (pre-installed), valves and sealant! Great deal!

  36. #936
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    Quote Originally Posted by ChrisGiantTalon29er View Post
    Click image for larger version. 

Name:	photo 2.jpg 
Views:	141 
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ID:	870130Hi, can you tell me how many s-xc2 29 wheel set weights?
    2367g

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    Re: Talon owners .....

    Quote Originally Posted by GelatiCruiser View Post
    Nashbar has them for $249.99 and 20% off through tomorrow. Thread about it in the "Best Deals" subforum.
    Got mine in today. I have a talon 29er 2 and after swapping everything over, I shaved 2.07 lbs off my bike... And the tires I'm using are ~400 grams (total) heavier than some nicer tires. Hoping to shave a total of somewhere near 3 lbs off total. Not bad for a $228 wheelset. Cant wait for the weather to turn here.

  38. #938
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    Quote Originally Posted by GelatiCruiser View Post
    Got mine in today. I have a talon 29er 2 and after swapping everything over, I shaved 2.07 lbs off my bike... And the tires I'm using are ~400 grams (total) heavier than some nicer tires. Hoping to shave a total of somewhere near 3 lbs off total. Not bad for a $228 wheelset. Cant wait for the weather to turn here.
    Cool! Yeah, that's a great price you found on that wheelset. What kinda total bike weight are you seeing now? Mine's right at 28 pounds in size XL, and with current components...

  39. #939
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    Quote Originally Posted by GelatiCruiser View Post
    Got mine in today. I have a talon 29er 2 and after swapping everything over, I shaved 2.07 lbs off my bike... And the tires I'm using are ~400 grams (total) heavier than some nicer tires. Hoping to shave a total of somewhere near 3 lbs off total. Not bad for a $228 wheelset. Cant wait for the weather to turn here.
    Lets see them!!!

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    I know... Worthless posts without pics. I should be sitting somewhere around 28lbs right now... I have some pretty heavy pedals on. My stock wheelset Weighed in at 2623gm and the new wheelset was 2205gm. Definitely a noticeable difference, the other pound came from ditching the tubes and saving a few grams on tires. I have to fire up the compressor to get the tires inflated (can't seat the bead with a floor pump) and once I do, I'll mount them up and get some pics up!

  41. #941
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    here are a few ghetto basement pics of the new wheel set i built, velocity dually's (45mm). the knard on there and the 500 a/c fork puts my HT angle at 70* and i love it. however come spring the wheels will go on the nimble 9, which they were intended for, wrapped with a chunky monkey up front and a smorgasbord out back. wide rims and high volume tires are where it's at.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Talon owners .....-dscn3205.jpg  

    Talon owners .....-dscn3209.jpg  


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    Re: Talon owners .....

    Quote Originally Posted by DiRt DeViL View Post
    Lets see them!!!
    Just attaching a couple pics... Stats above. LOVE the tubeless tires and adding the beef from the stock 2.10" SB8s...and going to 2.35". Can't wait to ride! Feel like I got a steal at $228 for the set, with qr, 15ta and 20mm, and skewers and 2 bottles of sealant. Mounted up super easy. No leaks no psi loss... Ready to ride!
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Talon owners .....-uploadfromtaptalk1393025051673.jpg  

    Talon owners .....-uploadfromtaptalk1393025069949.jpg  

    Talon owners .....-uploadfromtaptalk1393025084933.jpg  

    Talon owners .....-uploadfromtaptalk1393025117802.jpg  


  43. #943
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    Looks great, that was a steal!

  44. #944
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    Quote Originally Posted by DiRt DeViL View Post
    Looks great, that was a steal!
    Thanks. Like I said, I couldn't pass it up. Not the lightest/best out there, but it suits my needs just fine and the price was right. Plus everything coming in the box with it for a tubeless set up was nice and user friendly for a first timer. Next up, saddle/post! Taking recommendations!

  45. #945
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    Quote Originally Posted by GelatiCruiser View Post
    Next up, saddle/post! Taking recommendations!
    Thomson on the post and biased on Selle Italia for the saddle, WTB makes good confi saddles too.

  46. #946
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    This is how my son's Talon is looking like, the only remaining OE parts are the frame, brakes, shifters, mechs and grips.



    Mine is a bit different component wise but the only remaining OE parts are the frame, shifters, mechs and brakes.

  47. #947
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    What size/brand are those rotors?

  48. #948
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    Quote Originally Posted by GelatiCruiser View Post
    What size/brand are those rotors?
    Those are the OE rotors that came with the Root brakes (160mm, 6 bolt).

  49. #949
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    Quote Originally Posted by GelatiCruiser View Post
    Thanks. Like I said, I couldn't pass it up. Not the lightest/best out there, but it suits my needs just fine and the price was right. Plus everything coming in the box with it for a tubeless set up was nice and user friendly for a first timer. Next up, saddle/post! Taking recommendations!
    I was using a WTB Laser V Pro saddle and a Race Face Turbine post. Now, I've switched to a Chomag Trailmaster saddle and a Thomson Elite post. The WTB saddle was nice, but it did make me a bit numb after a couple of hours of riding. It had more of a "swoop" (aka banana-shaped) design. I sold it on ebay a couple of weeks ago. The Race Face post is really nice. I still have it, and I'm going to hang onto it in case I ever need it again. I really like its design. The new Chromag saddle is really nice. It's more of flatter style saddle, with a love groove. All leather top, too. I've ridden it several times now, including about a two-hour ride last Saturday. I'm really liking it. The Thomson post goes without saying. Extremely nice stuff that Thomson makes. I switched to the new post, with the new saddle, because of the differences in saddle/rail lengths. The Race Face post is a laid-back style; the Thomson isn't. I looked at those Selle Italia models, too. They're super nice, but pretty expensive. The model I thought about getting is around $160. The Chromag is only just shy of $100. If you haven't done it already, measure your butt bones and see what size saddle you'd likely need, then go from there. I didn't do that early on, but I did do it before buying the Chromag. Turns out the Chromag and WTB were about the same width anyway, so I "guessed" right the first time around regardless.

  50. #950
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    I was either going to use the "tin foil" method, or just have the lbs measure my sit bones. I was hoping not to part with a bunch of cash for a seat and post combo. Maybe I'll just wait for a deal to come along somewhere.

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