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  1. #651
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    Quote Originally Posted by ynnek View Post
    Fun subject: Best trailer-hitch and rack combo (have neither yet) for a 2012 Mazda 3 hatchback? (I'm sure there is a thread for this somewhere but I couldn't find what i was looking for.)
    Mazda Owners Unite!

  2. #652
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    Got myself a pair of schwalbe hans dampf 2.35 tires for my talon, they are SO SO grippy I can really throw the bike around more, the stock tires are totally dire! The 2.35's are so wide too and they have such a unique sound when rolling.

    Still haven't got a new fork, can't part with the money for it primarily because I'm looking at another bike! (the horror I know)




    http://i.imgur.com/St38Y2g.jpg - Semi clean talon
    http://i.imgur.com/ac92bYr.jpg - Trailstar for the front and pacestar for the rear
    http://i.imgur.com/9axZyCS.jpg - They're wide!

  3. #653
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    Quote Originally Posted by ynnek View Post
    Fun subject: Best trailer-hitch and rack combo (have neither yet) for a 2012 Mazda 3 hatchback? (I'm sure there is a thread for this somewhere but I couldn't find what i was looking for.)
    Did you checked the Car & Biker subforum?

  4. #654
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    That Mazda lovers link had what I needed. Thanks.
    2012 Giant Talon 1

  5. #655
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    It's time for the fork upgrade. I don't want to spend a lot.. but I want an actual upgrade from the Suntours. Been looking at Recon Silvers and considering the Suntour Upgrade program to Raidons.

    What wallet-friendly forks would you buy (or do you have) for your Talon (29er)? All opinions are appreciated!
    2012 Giant Talon 1

  6. #656
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    if you want to save i'd look at classifieds. i found a fork that i love that was rode only a handful of times and i got it for 1/2 the price. many people like the manitou tower pro for its price, tunability, and customer service. check pinkbike classifieds also. if you cant find used and have to buy new i'd still buy it. i think you can find them for $450ish. the trade in program also looks very tempting. i have a fork sitting here off my 12 T1 but feel like spending that on a fat front instead. let us know what you do

  7. #657
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    Need new chain rings

    I need replacement chain rings for my '11 1. What have you guys used?

  8. #658
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    Quote Originally Posted by heypal99 View Post
    I need replacement chain rings for my '11 1. What have you guys used?
    Replaced the OE crankset with Truvativ Stylo's so I'm using Truvativ rings, believe that the OE rings are 4 hole 104 bcd so anything compatible should work.

  9. #659
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    I'm curious if anyone has installed Shimano brakes on their Talon? Was thinking about ditching the Avid brakes for Shimano Deore M596 disc brakes. Which Shimano brakes did you install (if you have)? I was wondering if they were a direct bolt on or maybe if you had to get a disc brake adapter?

  10. #660
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    Quote Originally Posted by 29er Kid View Post
    I'm curious if anyone has installed Shimano brakes on their Talon? Was thinking about ditching the Avid brakes for Shimano Deore M596 disc brakes. Which Shimano brakes did you install (if you have)? I was wondering if they were a direct bolt on or maybe if you had to get a disc brake adapter?
    If the caliper is post mount you don't need a thing, tried some Shimano Deore (don't recall the model) and had fit issues with the SRAM shifter, eventually went back to the OE (Root) brakes but with the last generation of levers I don't see any issues.

  11. #661
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    Quote Originally Posted by DiRt DeViL View Post
    If the caliper is post mount you don't need a thing, tried some Shimano Deore (don't recall the model) and had fit issues with the SRAM shifter, eventually went back to the OE (Root) brakes but with the last generation of levers I don't see any issues.
    Thanks DiRt DeViL for the input. I will explore more on this one and see if the recent generation of levers will work OK with the SRAM shifters.

  12. #662
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    Anyone has replaced the headset retainer ring style bearings on their bikes? My son's Talon bearings are almost gone and looking to replace them with sealed bearings without having to replace the whole headset.

  13. #663
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    if the bearings are shot then i'd assume the races are too? i didn't know that you could get a sealed bearing to fit that race, HS's can be cheap.

  14. #664
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    Quote Originally Posted by fishwrinkle View Post
    if the bearings are shot then i'd assume the races are too? i didn't know that you could get a sealed bearing to fit that race, HS's can be cheap.
    Why replace the whole thing when the only part showing wear are the bearings, the balls are falling off them and are rusty. Not trying to cheap but practical.

  15. #665
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    Ok. The Suntour fork has got to go, on my bike. What's the best option for a fork from 250-300?

    There's a tk solo air for 290 on amazon. Other thoughts?
    Last edited by Dealwagon; 08-16-2013 at 09:05 AM.

  16. #666
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    Quote Originally Posted by DiRt DeViL View Post
    Why replace the whole thing when the only part showing wear are the bearings, the balls are falling off them and are rusty. Not trying to cheap but practical.
    Idk but if it were me I'd replace the whole thing. You're saying the bearings are rusted and worn? The metal dust and rust are putting a lot of wear on the cups too. So if you replace the ball bearings then I don't see what you are gaining as the tolerances of race and cup have been compromised. If u want just the bearing here ya go Dia Compe Headset Bearing Each 1-1/8" / 1-1/4" ST/SA/SE/Tank:Amazon:Sports & Outdoors You could also get this which is by far better Aest Anodised Semi Intergrated Threadless Internal Headset Sealed Cartridge Bearings 1 1/8 inch:Amazon:Sports & Outdoors

  17. #667
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    Subject: RockShox XC30.

    I have a 2013 Talon 0 and have about 190 singletrack miles on it. I have already had to replace the Remote Lockout once. The XC30 fork is a lower end fork I understand. I'm just not sure how much I need to lower my expectations on the product.

    There are adjustment knobs but I feel like there is no difference in feel. For example the rebound adjustment just turns and turns. Are there suppose to be stopping points at the rabbit and the turtle? Honestly, I'm just trying to find the middle and leave it sit until I can replace fork. I have searched the internets but cannot find any manual or instructions for making adjustments. I am going to take it to my LBS tonight and see what they have to say. However, if anyone has any suggestions or documentation on how to make adjustments (if possible) to the fork please let me know.

  18. #668
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    Quote Originally Posted by bikephotog View Post
    Subject: RockShox XC30.

    I have a 2013 Talon 0 and have about 190 singletrack miles on it. I have already had to replace the Remote Lockout once. The XC30 fork is a lower end fork I understand. I'm just not sure how much I need to lower my expectations on the product.

    There are adjustment knobs but I feel like there is no difference in feel. For example the rebound adjustment just turns and turns. Are there suppose to be stopping points at the rabbit and the turtle? Honestly, I'm just trying to find the middle and leave it sit until I can replace fork. I have searched the internets but cannot find any manual or instructions for making adjustments. I am going to take it to my LBS tonight and see what they have to say. However, if anyone has any suggestions or documentation on how to make adjustments (if possible) to the fork please let me know.
    I'm in same situation! (except I didn't have to replace anyting yet). Please tell me if you find anything about the rebound adjustment.

  19. #669
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    The Talon fork has a 360 turn (dunno why they never put a stopper in it) no big deal. Look at the knob and also the pictures. The knob has a longer end like an arrow. Point it toward the front of the bike for slowest rebound and toward the rear for faster and anywhere in between on the right side.


    So far I've put just over 1.5k on mine (just ordered its 3rd set of tires) and the majority of that has been a mix of different offroad. I've put quite a beating on the bike and so far here's what's warn out.

    1. Broke a stock pedal. (They sucked anyway and who doesn't put their own favourite pedals on a new bike?)

    2. Had the free hub start to slip and they replaced it as it was defective. (this was the only "real" problem I had"

    3. Had to re tighten the BB as it was a little loose after break in.

    4. Handle bar grips slipping a little after washing.

    I'm loving this bike. I test rode a lot of bikes before this one and it's a gem. I don't know why you're hating on the fork, it's decent especially compared to the Talon fork of previous years.

  20. #670
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    Quote Originally Posted by chuckeieio View Post
    The Talon fork has a 360 turn (dunno why they never put a stopper in it) no big deal. Look at the knob and also the pictures. The knob has a longer end like an arrow. Point it toward the front of the bike for slowest rebound and toward the rear for faster and anywhere in between on the right side.


    So far I've put just over 1.5k on mine (just ordered its 3rd set of tires) and the majority of that has been a mix of different offroad. I've put quite a beating on the bike and so far here's what's warn out.

    1. Broke a stock pedal. (They sucked anyway and who doesn't put their own favourite pedals on a new bike?)

    2. Had the free hub start to slip and they replaced it as it was defective. (this was the only "real" problem I had"

    3. Had to re tighten the BB as it was a little loose after break in.

    4. Handle bar grips slipping a little after washing.

    I'm loving this bike. I test rode a lot of bikes before this one and it's a gem. I don't know why you're hating on the fork, it's decent especially compared to the Talon fork of previous years.
    Thanks for your answer. So even if I've made several turn clockwise or counter, I just have to point the arrow between the rabbit and the turtle? So the adjustment is'nt a endless screw?

  21. #671
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bourdagespl View Post
    Thanks for your answer. So even if I've made several turn clockwise or counter, I just have to point the arrow between the rabbit and the turtle? So the adjustment is'nt a endless screw?
    It's not a screw. It's just a rotating valve. Pretty much like a ball valve if you can picture one with no stopper. (it's not that simple but easiest to explain without a diagram) It just spins.
    Point it toward the back and bounce up and down fast, do the same for the front and you'll hear and feel the difference. I run mine about 3/4 to the front as it suits my riding best.

  22. #672
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    Rockshox XC 30 woes continue...

    Okay, I'm totally with you guys on the "rotating valve". Thanks for the input btw...and after some tinkering I felt like I had renewed faith in the fork. Then.....

    The new remote purchased at my LBS rocked for a couple of rides but now seems to have a slipped cable or something. To one up that tonight on my 12th mile of my ride I went over a log obstacle and the coil just popped right out of tube. I have not messed with the preload dial very much so I don't what happened here. I guess it is possible that the medium spring is not enough for my 226 pounds and it just bottomed out and kept going. I don't know. Any thoughts as to why this would happen? I really would like to get two years out of this fork. Back to my LBS tomorrow.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Talon owners .....-img_1011.jpg  


  23. #673
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    Re: Talon owners .....

    You definitely need a firmer spring. Your preload just came unscrewed. Not sure why, you may have messed with it more than you thought.
    I'm a mountain bike guide in South West Utah

  24. #674
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    I noticed my tube end was loose too one day when I tried to add preload. It was turning by hand. If you want to put it back you should remove the preload knob with an allen key and then tighten the cap down with a wrench. I dried the oil off it and the female end and used thread locker blue on it.

    Just wanted to add that it's unlikely but it is possible that you put enough pressure on it somehow to strip the threads and pop it off. You'll want to check both thread surfaces for flattening or broken threads. Most likely it just "walked" its way out with vibration.
    GTA
    Ontario

  25. #675
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    Quote Originally Posted by bikephotog View Post
    Okay, I'm totally with you guys on the "rotating valve". Thanks for the input btw...and after some tinkering I felt like I had renewed faith in the fork. Then.....

    The new remote purchased at my LBS rocked for a couple of rides but now seems to have a slipped cable or something. To one up that tonight on my 12th mile of my ride I went over a log obstacle and the coil just popped right out of tube. I have not messed with the preload dial very much so I don't what happened here. I guess it is possible that the medium spring is not enough for my 226 pounds and it just bottomed out and kept going. I don't know. Any thoughts as to why this would happen? I really would like to get two years out of this fork. Back to my LBS tomorrow.
    Take it back for sure and see if you can get a deal for a better fork, people (myself included) said that the Suntour fork was bad but I've never seen a Radion do that. Also at your weight you should be looking at heavier springs or an air fork.

  26. #676
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    I am a new member and I got a new 2011 Talon 2 from a local LBS. It is my first bike in a long time. I was looking at a few other 29er bikes from other shops but the Talon just felt right. As soon as I took it for a test ride I wanted it. It helps that it was the cheapest 29er with disc brakes and a lockout fork that I could find locally. I also did alot of research on this site before I pulled the trigger. While I did read that the fork on the bike is a weakness I don't have enough experience to tell a difference at this point. So far I love the bike.

  27. #677
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    Thanks! I am heading to my LBS tonight afterwork..I'll update what they say after they take a look. I am hoping for it just "walking" it's way out. The bike is getting about 75 miles of singletrack a week right now so...I"m hopeful it's not going to a big issue. I do love the bike...it feels balanced and I have no purchase regrets at all. Just the fork is giving me some unexpected troubles. I have read some really great things about the performance level of this fork.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Talon owners .....-horseshoe-lean.jpg  


  28. #678
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    Quote Originally Posted by DiRt DeViL View Post
    Take it back for sure and see if you can get a deal for a better fork, people (myself included) said that the Suntour fork was bad but I've never seen a Radion do that. Also at your weight you should be looking at heavier springs or an air fork.
    its a RS fork not suntour

  29. #679
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    Quote Originally Posted by nomad220 View Post
    I am a new member and I got a new 2011 Talon 2 from a local LBS. It is my first bike in a long time. I was looking at a few other 29er bikes from other shops but the Talon just felt right. As soon as I took it for a test ride I wanted it. It helps that it was the cheapest 29er with disc brakes and a lockout fork that I could find locally. I also did alot of research on this site before I pulled the trigger. While I did read that the fork on the bike is a weakness I don't have enough experience to tell a difference at this point. So far I love the bike.
    Welcome. The only weakness "per say" of the 2011 is the fork. Like you said, ride the crap out of it until you're good enough that it bothers you. They are great riding bikes.
    Edit to add** I read somewhere on here that there's some sort of suntour exchange program or trade in or something similar? I'm sure someone will chime in with the details.

    Cheers
    GTA
    Ontario

  30. #680
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    Quote Originally Posted by fishwrinkle View Post
    its a RS fork not suntour
    That was what I meant, the RS did it but the Suntour didn't.

  31. #681
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    Quote Originally Posted by chuckeieio View Post
    Welcome. The only weakness "per say" of the 2011 is the fork. Like you said, ride the crap out of it until you're good enough that it bothers you. They are great riding bikes.
    Edit to add** I read somewhere on here that there's some sort of suntour exchange program or trade in or something similar? I'm sure someone will chime in with the details.

    Cheers
    Is in here.

  32. #682
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    I have a 2012 Talon 1 and just replaced the fork with a Rock Shox Recon Silver TK Solo Air from amazon for 276. Its so much smoother yet doesn't feel foreign (I was a little worried about that). This thing is SO much better than the suntour.

    Side note: the exchange program with suntour is only for original owner of the bike and you must show a receipt.. I bought mine used so I wasn't eligible or I might have gone that way.

    TOTALLY happy with the new fork. Transforms the bike. Now, if only it had that smooth a feeling under the back tire...

  33. #683
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    Hello:

    I am trying to choose between a 2014 Talon 27.5 1 and a 2014 Trek Stache 6. I have ridden a version of both and like them equally. Curious if there are any Talon 27.5 1 owners, are you happy with your purchase? I am especially interested comments about the RockShox XC 30 Gold fork. My LBS does not have a 1 in stock so I could not test that version. That is an air shock, correct?

  34. #684
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    Cant comment on the 27.5s other than I want a FS 27.5, but Giant has lost its mind on pricing, but...

    The XC 30 is a spring fork, and not air. If you are buying a new bike look for an air fork. You will thank me later.

  35. #685
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    Took my 2013 Talon into my LBS last night and turns out the either I accidentally backed out the threads a little messing with the Preload or I just compressed them so hard that the spring just shot out. Also, I read before purchase that the Talons are sold with a Medium spring in the RS XC30. I purchased a small frame for my 5'6" self. Well, it turns out that the small frames have a "Soft" spring in them. So, at 226lbs. I ordered a extra firm spring and should be in next week. I am now looking for the performance of the fork to be much better. If I can get a year or two out of it I'd be happy. If it breaks then I'll upgrade.

    I agree with Dealwagon's comment..however, my budget would not allow for an Air Fork on a new bike that I could find sub $1200. I plan on purchasing a Xfusion or Manitou Tower as a fork upgrade down the road a bit but for now I'm gonna give RS XC 30 workout.

  36. #686
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    The pricing on the 2014 full sussers is steep, I demoed the 27.5 Trance and the MSRP of that thing is over 5k; the ride was so sweet that I wanted to keep it but no way that I can afford it.

  37. #687
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    Quote Originally Posted by bikephotog View Post
    Took my 2013 Talon into my LBS last night and turns out the either I accidentally backed out the threads a little messing with the Preload or I just compressed them so hard that the spring just shot out. Also, I read before purchase that the Talons are sold with a Medium spring in the RS XC30. I purchased a small frame for my 5'6" self. Well, it turns out that the small frames have a "Soft" spring in them. So, at 226lbs. I ordered a extra firm spring and should be in next week. I am now looking for the performance of the fork to be much better. If I can get a year or two out of it I'd be happy. If it breaks then I'll upgrade.

    I agree with Dealwagon's comment..however, my budget would not allow for an Air Fork on a new bike that I could find sub $1200. I plan on purchasing a Xfusion or Manitou Tower as a fork upgrade down the road a bit but for now I'm gonna give RS XC 30 workout.
    Where did you ordered the extra firm spring?

  38. #688
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bourdagespl View Post
    Where did you ordered the extra firm spring?
    I just had my LBS order it. 33 bucks seemed reasonable to get right setup.

  39. #689
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    Hi guys,

    Just wanted to introduce myself. I recently got back into riding and picked up a '11 T1 a few months ago. The bike i got used in "like new" condition. it was a steal that I could not turn down. I have put about 250Miles since I got it. Only upgrade I've done is some ergon grips for full palm support. I also have a Shimano 203MM front rotor with a megura adaptor to give me some more modulation and easier front stopping power( wont be putting this on till I upgrade my fork). I am looking at the options that may best fit me, 5'11 @225lbs, for a front fork. Price being important but i would rather spend the money on a quality fork that I will get great use out of.

    I also want to get your guys' input in terms of seats. I am not too happy with the stock saddle, so for my size what should I look at?

    Lastly, I have noticed that I am getting a clicking when I apply power to the driveline, its hard to tell but it seems like its coming from the BB or possibly the chain? (i have not replaced anything since I got the bike other than the above mentioned). It seems like the more TQ i put on the driveline (like when uphill climbing) the more clicks per rotation I get. its no very sequential, if that makes sense?

    I love this bike and its taken a huge beating. I would like to go with a wider tire too. What is the widest someone has gone in the rear without fitment issues?

    Edit:I was thinking is it worth it buying some of the specialty tools to do all the maintenance on the bike myself, over taking in to my LBS?

    The giant website shows that the BB is a sealed shimano unit, but I cant seem to find what the technical name/unit it is, anyone have that info? Again its a '11 T1 29er
    Last edited by ///M3fresh; 09-02-2013 at 01:12 PM.

  40. #690
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    Quote Originally Posted by ///M3fresh View Post
    Hi guys,

    Just wanted to introduce myself. I recently got back into riding and picked up a '11 T1 a few months ago. The bike i got used in "like new" condition. it was a steal that I could not turn down. I have put about 250Miles since I got it. Only upgrade I've done is some ergon grips for full palm support. I also have a Shimano 203MM front rotor with a megura adaptor to give me some more modulation and easier front stopping power( wont be putting this on till I upgrade my fork). I am looking at the options that may best fit me, 5'11 @225lbs, for a front fork. Price being important but i would rather spend the money on a quality fork that I will get great use out of.

    I also want to get your guys' input in terms of seats. I am not too happy with the stock saddle, so for my size what should I look at?

    Lastly, I have noticed that I am getting a clicking when I apply power to the driveline, its hard to tell but it seems like its coming from the BB or possibly the chain? (i have not replaced anything since I got the bike other than the above mentioned). It seems like the more TQ i put on the driveline (like when uphill climbing) the more clicks per rotation I get. its no very sequential, if that makes sense?

    I love this bike and its taken a huge beating. I would like to go with a wider tire too. What is the widest someone has gone in the rear without fitment issues?

    Edit:I was thinking is it worth it buying some of the specialty tools to do all the maintenance on the bike myself, over taking in to my LBS?

    The giant website shows that the BB is a sealed shimano unit, but I cant seem to find what the technical name/unit it is, anyone have that info? Again its a '11 T1 29er

    I found a WTB Rocket V after trying many seats over the last couple of years. I would give it a try. I don't think I'll even try another seat out. I also heard the Charge Spoon seat was awesome but as soon as the Rocket V made it on the seatpost it is not coming off the bike soon. Another note I can touch on is about your LBS and or purchasing tools. I do some work in the garage but I really dig my LBS. If you have not already built a great relationship with your LBS do so. A good shop is worth the weight in gold. On the other hand don't be afraid to dabble and learn about the maintenance on the bike. It could come in mighty handy out on the trail.

  41. #691
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    I can comment on the clicking.. Mine had some after riding. I SWORE it was the bottom bracket. LBS tore it down trying to find it. It was the pedals. Brothers bike now doing it. Try some other pedals and see if it happens.

    That's a cheap fix too. (assuming its your issue too)

  42. #692
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    grease the seat post for a possible solution of the clicking, don't know how many times this has happened to me. it has even sounded like a bad headset but still it was the post and the sound traveled the frame to mislead me.

  43. #693
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    Usual suspects, seat post at collar, seat post at the seat clamp, pedals, bb cups. Mine creaks a lot at the seat collar area, ordered a Salsa clamp go the that sorted out, the Giant clamp slips.

  44. #694
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    Great info guys! I did a bit of hunting it down some more and feel confident its not anything seat related. I also dont think its a BB. I could be the pedals (havent swapped them out yet, will try this when I have some time) I think its the chain and or the Front ring set? is that a possibility? Im just curious, does anyone know the type of Shimano BB that giant is using in the 11T1's?

    I am trying to test as many seats as I can, as I feel that is one of (if not the most) important part of the bike.

  45. #695
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    ^ I had a clicking started a few days ago on mine. It was loose chain ring I tightened yesterday.
    GTA
    Ontario

  46. #696
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    Quote Originally Posted by ///M3fresh View Post
    I think its the chain and or the Front ring set? is that a possibility? Im just curious, does anyone know the type of Shimano BB that giant is using in the 11T1's?
    Loose ring bolts do make sounds when loose, just tight them up. The bb is a 73x113 square taper, that was the first thing I change on ours.


  47. #697
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    Quote Originally Posted by DiRt DeViL View Post
    Loose ring bolts do make sounds when loose, just tight them up. The bb is a 73x113 square taper, that was the first thing I change on ours.

    Perfect, Dirt Devil! That is what I was looking for. Yesterday when I washed the bike I took a long hard look at the crankset and the BB to see if there is any play and to my surprise, there wasnt anything!

    Ill try and get my post count up so I can post a picture or two of the ride!

  48. #698
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    Quote Originally Posted by ///M3fresh View Post
    Yesterday when I washed the bike I took a long hard look at the crankset and the BB to see if there is any play and to my surprise, there wasnt anything!!
    Look for a couple of things, play at the spindle, loose cranks arms, loose bb cups and loose ring bolts; all of them make noises when loose, grease and thighten as per specs.

    If the spindle has play replace the bb.

  49. #699
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    The chain rings may not appear to have any "noticeable" play but you should still put the tools to them to make sure. I was dead sure I had BB noise until I re tightened my bolts up.
    That being said, sometimes the BB does need to be taken out, re greased and re tightened. Especially on a new bike after its first year out.
    GTA
    Ontario

  50. #700
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    Quote Originally Posted by chuckeieio View Post
    That being said, sometimes the BB does need to be taken out, re greased and re tightened. Especially on a new bike after its first year out.
    Agreed, specially if frequently ridden in mud.

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