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  1. #1
    tmo
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    Shifting Help--flex or cassette?

    Took my newly built 2002 NRS1 out for a ride yesterday. Came back a bit frustrated. You see, I am having shifting issues. Here's the deal. When the chain is on the 2nd and 3rd largest cogs, it starts jumping down the cogset (to the smaller cogs). I believe Sheldon Brown refers to this as autoshifting. It didn't matter which ring I was in up front and I could use the cogs around the problem cogs effectively. Okay here are some of the factors. With the build, I replaced the chain (PC99), but not the cassette (XT). The cassette appears to be in good shape, but two cogs that are the issue are the ones I tend to use the most. Perhaps I am simply dealing with a worn cassette. On the other hand, I am worried that I am experiencing the famed NRS ghost shift. At about 180-185 pounds (riding weight), I may be heavy enough to be flexing the seatstays, causing ghost shifting. I am currently running my rear derailleur housing as originally designed; it does NOT run from the seatpost all the way to the derailleur, which has solved the ghost shifting for many people. Here are my questions:
    1. Is this just a case of a worn cassette?
    2. For those of you who have experienced the NRS ghost shifting, does it occur in all gears or just a few specific gears?
    3. Anyone have a recommendation?

  2. #2
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    . Is this just a case of a worn cassette?
    How old is the cassette?

    For those of you who have experienced the NRS ghost shifting, does it occur in all gears or just a few specific gears?
    Like your NRS mine only did it in the 2nd & 3rd largest gear.

    At about 180-185 pounds (riding weight), I may be heavy enough to be flexing the seatstays,
    I was 225-230 when I first started riding my NRS with no problems.

    Anyone have a recommendation?
    If your cassette is worn try replacing it first. If that doesn't work do a search on here for the other fixes such as the derailleur housing fix. The only time I had a problem with the ghost shifting was when my chain and cassette got pretty worn. It also happened when I set the rear shock kinda soft with the worn parts. Since then I replaced the cassette,chain,cables,housing ( same as what came on there original) & upgraded crank set to XT and have not had a problem yet. I hope this helps you out.

  3. #3
    tmo
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    Quote Originally Posted by bertt
    How old is the cassette?


    Like your NRS mine only did it in the 2nd & 3rd largest gear.


    I was 225-230 when I first started riding my NRS with no problems.


    If your cassette is worn try replacing it first. If that doesn't work do a search on here for the other fixes such as the derailleur housing fix. The only time I had a problem with the ghost shifting was when my chain and cassette got pretty worn. It also happened when I set the rear shock kinda soft with the worn parts. Since then I replaced the cassette,chain,cables,housing ( same as what came on there original) & upgraded crank set to XT and have not had a problem yet. I hope this helps you out.

    I would say that the cassette has 400-500 miles on it. I would imagine that it would have a bit more life on it, but perhaps the new chain is accentuating the wear. I know of the cable fix and may just go ahead and do it anyway. Probably should have from the get go. When you replaced your cassette, was it visibly worn?

  4. #4
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    I was going to leave the old one on because it did not look very worn. But since I was replacing everything else might as well do it also. Not sure of exact miles but I would say maybe 600-700.

  5. #5
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    Try running the cable housing down the stays. I'm 195 and had this very frustrating problem. I would put money down that this will be the end to your skipping! It ended it for me and I am now a happy NRS rider.

  6. #6
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    run full housing first. do not use the cable stops. try it first and just zip tie it to the frame to see if full housing solves the problem.

    dirt diggler

  7. #7
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    I have tried this a couple of times. Replace your cassette. I have never been able to get a used cassette to work with a new chain no matter what the mileage. Get on the power and they skip every time.

  8. #8
    tmo
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    Quote Originally Posted by rhodoman
    I have tried this a couple of times. Replace your cassette. I have never been able to get a used cassette to work with a new chain no matter what the mileage. Get on the power and they skip every time.
    Well, I ran the full housing last night and should be able to give it a whirl this weekend. I held out on a new cassette primarily because my lbs did not have one (that I wanted) in stock. One question though. When you run the full housing, do you zip tie it to the inside or outside of the cable guides. I have it on the inside now. If this trick works, I may just drill out the cable stops and run the cable through.

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    You can drill them out, i think a member Fnatek (sp) wrote up a nice detail of how to do it neatly and carefully. one note that it may void the waranty. you can buy or use jagwire hydraulic line fastener.

    one thing to note to is make sure the chain has no tight link and also check for proper chain length. i had to remove a link and 1/2 to avoid adjusting the b-tension screw on the rear der., because on the granny gear in the front and 32 tooth on the rear the upper pulley was touching.



    dirt diggler

  10. #10
    tmo
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    Quote Originally Posted by dirt diggler
    You can drill them out, i think a member Fnatek (sp) wrote up a nice detail of how to do it neatly and carefully. one note that it may void the waranty. you can buy or use jagwire hydraulic line fastener.

    one thing to note to is make sure the chain has no tight link and also check for proper chain length. i had to remove a link and 1/2 to avoid adjusting the b-tension screw on the rear der., because on the granny gear in the front and 32 tooth on the rear the upper pulley was touching.
    dirt diggler

    I bought the frame used so bring on the drill. First I will see if it works. The chain is new, so there are no kinks. It rode fine on the trainer last night, even with me bouncing around on it while I pedaled. Nevertheless, trainers are trainers and trails are trails. My fingers are crossed. I have seen that handle before. Though I think it is something like Faetec with the "a" "e" together. Some weird character or something. I will do a search and see what I come up with.

  11. #11
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    I think his name was naestep with the a & e together

  12. #12
    tmo
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    Quote Originally Posted by bertt
    I think his name was naestep with the a & e together
    I actually found the posting. His name is f*naetic with the a and e together--like "fanatic". His posting gives great pics and instructions for drilling out the cable stops. If the cable fix works, I will likely drill them out.

  13. #13
    tmo
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    Guess what?

    Surprise, running the shifter cable from the seatpost to the derailleur worked. I took the bike out today. Shifting problems are gone and I am loving the frame. I thank all of you for your help. For future riders, just run the cable as stated from the get go.

  14. #14
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    I did that trick and it also worked! BUT..everytime my rear shock compresses and springs back fast (quick dips, etc.) I get this brutal *SNAP* from the cable slapping the frame. Do you guys get this? If so, how do I get rid of it?

  15. #15
    tmo
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    Quote Originally Posted by col200
    I did that trick and it also worked! BUT..everytime my rear shock compresses and springs back fast (quick dips, etc.) I get this brutal *SNAP* from the cable slapping the frame. Do you guys get this? If so, how do I get rid of it?

    Hmmm...haven't experienced that. I am getting a lot of chain slap, but plan on throwing on chainstay protector and possibly remove a link. Would it be possible for you to zip tie the section in question to the frame keeping it from moving out far enough to slap on its return?

  16. #16
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    Told you so

    Quote Originally Posted by tmo
    Surprise, running the shifter cable from the seatpost to the derailleur worked. I took the bike out today. Shifting problems are gone and I am loving the frame. I thank all of you for your help. For future riders, just run the cable as stated from the get go.

  17. #17
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    do not use zip tie on any aluminum tubes.. the zip tie will wear out the finish and also the metal.. i use lizard skin carbon fiber protective stick-on and jagwaire sells neoprene tubing that slips over the housing to avoid cable rub and noise.

    dirt diggler

  18. #18
    tmo
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    Quote Originally Posted by dirt diggler
    do not use zip tie on any aluminum tubes.. the zip tie will wear out the finish and also the metal.. i use lizard skin carbon fiber protective stick-on and jagwaire sells neoprene tubing that slips over the housing to avoid cable rub and noise.

    dirt diggler
    Quote Originally Posted by dirt diggler
    3 Weeks Ago 06:31 AM
    dirt diggler run full housing first. do not use the cable stops. try it first and just zip tie it to the frame to see if full housing solves the problem.

    dirt diggler

    Hey Dirk, 3 weeks ago (see above), you recommended zip tying the housing to the NRS frame, which is, in most cases, aluminum. What gives? To help prevent against housing frame rub, you can pick up adhesive mylar from some hardware stores.

  19. #19
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    hey tmo,
    my earlier reply was for temporary to see if it is a housing problem, before you drill out the cablestops.

    dirt diggler

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