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  1. #1
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    Servicing Trance X 29-1 shock

    I'm at the interval where my Fox Float rear shock will require basic servicing, as in a seal service. I've seen a couple videos on the web about doing this and it looks very straightforward. My questions are (1) has anyone done this on the 1 or 0 themselves, and (2) is it possible to remove the shock without removing the crankset? I'm a novice at servicing bikes but I'm a quick study and like the aspect of working on my own bike. Plus, the lbs where I bought it isn't exactly around the corner.

    Maybe someone could list some quick steps and any special tools I'd need. Probably a 0.25" torque wrench is needed. Thanks for any advice.
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  2. #2
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    I serviced my 2011 Trance rear shock (Fox RP2) earlier this year - was the first time for me. I ended up removing the cranks (wasn't sure I needed to but thought it better safe than sorry), which needed a really good clean anyway (lots of dirt in where you can't access without removing) and this was quick and straight forward.

    I then removed the shock (air let out first) being careful to note (take photos) where the various bolts, washers and bearings went.

    I followed a youtube video (can't remember which one) and I didn't have any problems, so I'd say go for it. I replaced the seals and added new float fluid, etc.

    I'd recommend using a torque wrench to re-assemble the linkage/shock mounts and you'll probably need to use locktite on the threads - you'll know when you take the shock out as you'll see blue loctite on the threads then.

  3. #3
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    Servicing Trance X 29-1 shock

    Awesome, thanks dischucker. Regarding the cranks, did this require a crank puller? It doesn't appear so on the SRAM service document but I'm just wondering what you used.

    Edit/Update: No crank puller. Just used a 8mm hex and loosened the non-drive side (lefty loosy) and the arm popped right off the rest of the crank came out with ease.

    Edit 2: I serviced the shock per the Fox YouTube video and it went pretty smoothly with no major surprises. Getting the spacers/bushings aligned to drive the red 'axel' through the bottom of the shock (eyelet) was a minor PITA but if you do it a bit at a time it works. Not sure I was supposed to do this but a put a very light coat of PW grease on the axel and the bushings/spacers. It's really pretty easy and I would encourage anyone with decent DIY skills to give it a try. Just follow the video step by step.
    Last edited by MTBeing; 10-31-2013 at 11:07 AM.
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  4. #4
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    I have Shimano SLX cranks which use a splined crank shaft, so the crank comes off pretty easily (I might have given it a tap ?) once you undo the bolts, etc. Most modern cranks are the same but I don't know for sure with SRAM. A quick google for your model should answer the question of whether it has a splined shaft or not (or just eye-balling it if you know what to look for).

  5. #5
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    loosen the large chain ring bolts and remove the ring. takes 2 minutes

  6. #6
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    If the 6mm allen side of the lower shock bolt is on the non-drive side, then you can remove the shock without removing the cranks by using a shortened 5mm allen wrench that fits behind the crank. It's easy to shorten a 5mm with a hacksaw, and it's a great tool to keep in your camelback should anything loosen up on the trail. If the 6mm side of the bolt is facing the drive side though, then you'll need to remove the cranks. Just reverse it when you put it back in, to avoid this problem again.

    Or, you could upgrade to a Kashima shock that I happen to be selling almost new off my Trance BustedSpoke.com - View topic - PRICE DROP Fox RP23 CTD & Fox Air volume tuning kit

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