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Thread: Revel Thread

  1. #51
    eff
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    Quote Originally Posted by AntiSocialClimber View Post
    I ran the tires today at 65# but I think I need to lower that for off-road. I was having traction issues, especially in loose stuff and uneven surfaces like pebble fields.
    You should cut that in half. We usually run about 32#.

  2. #52
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    Quote Originally Posted by eff View Post
    You should cut that in half. We usually run about 32#.

    Agreed, I hang around 40 or so. It is firm enough to roll but I still get good traction.

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    Quote Originally Posted by coling View Post
    Agreed, I hang around 40 or so. It is firm enough to roll but I still get good traction.
    Thanx to eff and coling for the pressure advice.

    I think I'll drop to 40 for my next time out and bring a pressure gauge if I have to go lower.

    @eff - good to know I can go as low as #32. Pinch flats much of a problem at that pressure?

  4. #54
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    I ran as low as 25 without knowing it, over a rather root filled trail. Not that I suggest it, however.

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    Quote Originally Posted by akaBrowntown View Post
    I ran as low as 25 without knowing it, over a rather root filled trail.

    Kewl!

    Good to know you can runj that close to "flat" and at my weight 25# might not be enough, but that said ....

    The place closest to my home doesn't have roots. It has rocks - there are occasional pebble fields with rocks ranging from golf ball size up to watermellon.

    Being as new to serious MTB'ing as I am to my bike, those fields were challenging at 65#

  6. #56
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    Yea, the lower psi makes the ride more comfortable as well. But on some hard pack jack it up and you're flying.

  7. #57
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    Here 'tis

    Finally got my 10 in

    Here's the bike as it looked yesterday


  8. #58
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    How wide of a tire will the Revel frame allow?

  9. #59
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    I think you would want to consider the rim the tire bead is inside of before pushing it too far. Its like getting mud tires on your truck. its safe to get wider wheels at the same time. I wouldn't run anything wider than 2.3 or maybe 2.4. I have a 2.1 and it gets plenty of grip.

  10. #60
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    Need a bit of help.

    I'm about to take advantage of the Suntour upgrade program, and I can either get the Raidon or the Epicon. I know the Raidon is a good fork for the money, but the Epicon is one of their best for sub-300, so that's hard to pass up.

    The Epicon has a 15mm through axle..will this work on the stock hubs on the Revel 1?

  11. #61
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    I dont believe so, the stock fork is not a 15mm through axle.

    I believe I put my last 11 miles on my Revel, new bike soon. :O

  12. #62
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    No, they are not convertible. You'll need a new hub as well and then of course, a new wheel build by either you or your LBS.
    I'm a mountain bike guide in South West Utah

  13. #63
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    Quote Originally Posted by Silentfoe View Post
    No, they are not convertible. You'll need a new hub as well and then of course, a new wheel build by either you or your LBS.
    Welp... Looks like its the Raidon then. Not willing to spend that kind of dough. Unless there's a standard Epicon, which I doubt.

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    You can keep an eye out for 29" anthem/trance front wheels. They have a 15QR, they pop up on pink bike often.

  15. #65
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    Quote Originally Posted by AntiSocialClimber View Post
    Thanx to eff and coling for the pressure advice.

    I think I'll drop to 40 for my next time out and bring a pressure gauge if I have to go lower.

    @eff - good to know I can go as low as #32. Pinch flats much of a problem at that pressure?
    None yet, we climb over a lot of rocks and the lower pressure really helps with traction.

  16. #66
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    Quote Originally Posted by eff View Post
    None yet, we climb over a lot of rocks and the lower pressure really helps with traction.
    I've ran mine as low as 25 before and there was no pinching. The stock tires seem to have very stiff sidewalls.


    My amazing deal of getting BB7's for $25 fell through, so I just bought a brand new set with HS1 rotors for $55 shipped. Should be here next week.

    Does anyone else have problems with the stock Tecktros being total crap? I've adjusted them, I've had my LBS adjust them... And they'll always work amazing the first time out after adjusting, and then it's back to suckage.

    Can't wait to get them in and then upgrade the fork and I'll be a happy camper.

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    As a beginner I'm thinking about getting a Revel 1. I'm in Long Island, Ny and enjoy riding around the nearby trails. I'm wondering if you guys would recommend this bike. Hows it treating all of you on the trails? How much did you pay, does anyone have a 2013? Any upgrades needed when I first get it?

  18. #68
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    Quote Originally Posted by Krunk_Kracker View Post
    Does anyone else have problems with the stock Tecktros being total crap? I've adjusted them, I've had my LBS adjust them... And they'll always work amazing the first time out after adjusting, and then it's back to suckage.

    Can't wait to get them in and then upgrade the fork and I'll be a happy camper.

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    Yes........ they suck balls!!! I'm gonna look up the bb7 ebay deal after posting this!

    A new fork will definitely make you a happy camper! I didn't realize how much effect it had on my riding until I bought the R/S silver recon solo air.

  19. #69
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    Quote Originally Posted by Krunk_Kracker View Post
    Does anyone else have problems with the stock Tecktros being total crap? I've adjusted them, I've had my LBS adjust them... And they'll always work amazing the first time out after adjusting, and then it's back to suckage.
    Yeah, I think they totally suck. I already installed the Avid Speed Dial levers and that made a big difference, and I plan to upgrade to BB7's in a month or so.

  20. #70
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    Quote Originally Posted by keith421 View Post
    As a beginner I'm thinking about getting a Revel 1. I'm in Long Island, Ny and enjoy riding around the nearby trails. I'm wondering if you guys would recommend this bike. Hows it treating all of you on the trails? How much did you pay, does anyone have a 2013? Any upgrades needed when I first get it?
    I really like my Revel, but there are some short comings:

    1. Fork
    2. Brakes
    3. 8 speed cassette (I need better low gear selection and the 22t chainring doesn't get where I want to be either.)


    Now compared to other bikes in it's class the Revel comes with better components across the board at a lower price. That said it's worth of purchase and use out of the box and then upgrade as funds allow or you brake something.

  21. #71
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    Quote Originally Posted by keith421 View Post
    As a beginner I'm thinking about getting a Revel 1. I'm in Long Island, Ny and enjoy riding around the nearby trails. I'm wondering if you guys would recommend this bike. Hows it treating all of you on the trails? How much did you pay, does anyone have a 2013? Any upgrades needed when I first get it?
    It is a good bike.

    I had about $2200 set aside, and I was either getting a Trance X or a Scott Spark but then I got engaged and having to pay for the wedding out of pocket, I gave that to the fiancee. That said, I had to readjust my budget. I picked up the 2013 Revel 1 for $500 and I was a bit deflated. For the most part, it met most of my expectations, even though I was wanting a much more high end bike.

    It's two biggest weak points are the brakes and the front fork IMO.

    The brakes aren't terrible per se, just under performing. They tend to get a little "soft" feeling but they do work. I don't think they were meant for real aggressive riding.

    The fork, is jello. Under hard braking it flexes and you'll see the top of the tire push left about an 8th of an inch... This is normal though for lower end forks. It works and it's smoother than a rigid fork, but you'll want to plan to upgrade it if you do any kind of aggressive riding.

    Fortunately, Suntour has a killer upgrade program right now, where you can get their mid level air fork for $175 which is what I'm doing.





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  22. #72
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    Quote Originally Posted by eff View Post
    Yeah, I think they totally suck. I already installed the Avid Speed Dial levers and that made a big difference, and I plan to upgrade to BB7's in a month or so.
    I was looking into those....what about them made such a big difference?

    I bought BB7's with HS1 rotors for mine, but I'll be using the stock levers and cables at first.

    Are these the ones you got? Avid Speed Dial 7 Levers > Components > Brakes > Mountain Bike Brake Levers | Jenson USA Online Bike Shop

  23. #73
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    Quote Originally Posted by Krunk_Kracker View Post
    I was looking into those....what about them made such a big difference?

    I bought BB7's with HS1 rotors for mine, but I'll be using the stock levers and cables at first.

    Are these the ones you got? Avid Speed Dial 7 Levers > Components > Brakes > Mountain Bike Brake Levers | Jenson USA Online Bike Shop
    I found the Tektro brakes were on or off. No feel what so ever. The Avid levers allow you to adjust the pull so that you can fine tune how hard the lever is to pull. That made the brakes tolerable for now. I highly recommend getting a set. Only $15-$20 and well worth it IMHO.

  24. #74
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    Quote Originally Posted by eff View Post
    I found the Tektro brakes were on or off. No feel what so ever. The Avid levers allow you to adjust the pull so that you can fine tune how hard the lever is to pull. That made the brakes tolerable for now. I highly recommend getting a set. Only $15-$20 and well worth it IMHO.
    Ordered them.

    Looking forward to redoing the brakes on this thing.

    Still be using the stock cables, but that's fine with me.

  25. #75
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    You gonna hit up Alafia/Balm anytime soon?

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    Quote Originally Posted by akaBrowntown View Post
    You gonna hit up Alafia/Balm anytime soon?
    Was hoping to this weekend, but I have a friend of mine who wants to go, so we're going to Carter Rd instead. He's on a Wally World bike, so I don't want to go far from home.

    I do have a camping trip with my daughter and a friend and his son planned to Alafia on the 16th of Feburary though

  27. #77
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    Looking at purchasing a 2013 Revel 0 for my first mtb. For some reason they just really catch my eye and i feel like they are a pretty good value (with exception of the front fork) any suggestions on some simple upgrades that will help me get a bit more value from the bike?

  28. #78
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    Quote Originally Posted by techGuy714 View Post
    Looking at purchasing a 2013 Revel 0 for my first mtb. For some reason they just really catch my eye and i feel like they are a pretty good value (with exception of the front fork) any suggestions on some simple upgrades that will help me get a bit more value from the bike?
    Those are good bikes...they already come with Avid BB5 brakes and X5 drivetrain.

    I'd say run it as is, and replace the fork in a month or two when you start noticing it's suckage. You'll notice when your skill level will outdo the fork.

    Make sure to take advantage of Suntours excellent upgrade program.

  29. #79
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    Is anyone having issue finding shifters in 8 speed?

    I really want these, BlueSkyCycling.com - Shimano Deore M590 Shifter Pods 9 Speed, but they are 9 speed.

  30. #80
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    So go 9 speed! A Deore 9 speed cassette isn't expensive and this would be a great upgrade to your bike.
    I'm a mountain bike guide in South West Utah

  31. #81
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    Quote Originally Posted by Silentfoe View Post
    So go 9 speed! A Deore 9 speed cassette isn't expensive and this would be a great upgrade to your bike.
    I was just thinking the same. I'll have to wait though, the Deore 9 speed is $90.

  32. #82
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    Quote Originally Posted by Krunk_Kracker View Post
    I was just thinking the same. I'll have to wait though, the Deore 9 speed is $90.
    HUH?!!! Maybe the XT cassette but a quick google search finds all the Deore 9 speed cassettes for around $25.
    I'm a mountain bike guide in South West Utah

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    Quote Originally Posted by Silentfoe View Post
    HUH?!!! Maybe the XT cassette but a quick google search finds all the Deore 9 speed cassettes for around $25.
    Ahhh ok, theres a Deore XT and a Deore...I see now.

    I'm going to skip that for now anyways, as the shifters really don't bother me all that much.

    I did pick up this, because I want to cut down the bars, but I don't want to do it to the stock bars in case I sell this thing when I upgrade: BlueSkyCycling.com - Race Face Ride Xc Low Riser Bar w/ Race Face Evolve Stem Kit

  34. #84
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    Quote Originally Posted by eff View Post
    Is that a MRP bashguard?

    What forks are you going to get?

  35. #85
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    Quote Originally Posted by Shaney Boogz View Post
    Is that a MRP bashguard?

    What forks are you going to get?
    That is the BBG bashguard. BBG Website

    I am upgrading the crank and drivetrain to 9 speed, Sram X9 and Truvative Stylo. The fork I am still up in the air, but I am leaning toward Rockshox Recon Silver Solo Air.

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    Just test rode a Talon 1, Revel 0, trek marlin and mamba. The marlin was super unimpressive, and the mamba was ok. The talon 1 was nice but in the end the Revel just felt great to ride. So on Tuesday I'm going to buy my first mountain bike which will be the Revel 0. So pumped

  37. #87
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    I need some advice -

    My rear cassette is needing replacement, since I am learning on it, it's taking a beating.

    I want to upgrade the entire drivetrain to the Deore level. I notice there's Deore and Deore XT level of components. What's the difference between these?

    When I look for a front derailleur some say top cable and others say bottom cable... Do I need a top cable? If I do it right, I can make this conversion to 9 speed close to around $100

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  38. #88
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    Even though it says "deore" XT, ignore the Deore part. Shimano components go in this order: XTR, XT, SLX/Saint, Deore, and then general junk that works but should be replaced ASAP. Go for a straight Deore drivetrain and you'll have good components.

    Many derailleurs are dual pull. Basically just get one that looks like the one you have.
    I'm a mountain bike guide in South West Utah

  39. #89
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    Quote Originally Posted by Silentfoe View Post
    Even though it says "deore" XT, ignore the Deore part. Shimano components go in this order: XTR, XT, SLX/Saint, Deore, and then general junk that works but should be replaced ASAP. Go for a straight Deore drivetrain and you'll have good components.

    Many derailleurs are dual pull. Basically just get one that looks like the one you have.
    Do you think the Deore drivetrain will be a good replacement over the Alivio that is on it now? Maybe I should shoot for SLX if I can fit it into the budget?

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  40. #90
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    So now you see the curse of upgradeitis. Yes, Deore is good, but of course...if SLX fits your budget you should go for it.
    I'm a mountain bike guide in South West Utah

  41. #91
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    Quote Originally Posted by Silentfoe View Post
    So now you see the curse of upgradeitis. Yes, Deore is good, but of course...if SLX fits your budget you should go for it.
    Would it be silly not to replace the front derailleur at all? I have never shifted the front derailleur in actual use. If I did that, I could SLX rear derailleur and cassette and XT shifters.

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  42. #92
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    Quote Originally Posted by eff View Post
    That is the BBG bashguard.
    Did you order the 104 bcd guard? If so do they fit on the 106 bcd crank? Tried searching but kept getting mixed answers.

    Also does anyone know if you can make a bashwich on the revel 1?

  43. #93
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    Quote Originally Posted by Shaney Boogz View Post
    Did you order the 104 bcd guard? If so do they fit on the 106 bcd crank? Tried searching but kept getting mixed answers.

    Also does anyone know if you can make a bashwich on the revel 1?
    It's the 104 BCD. I think the Suntour site has a typo. I also considered a bashwich but it looks like the inner guard will hit the chainstay. I went with the N-Gear Jump Stop.

  44. #94
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    It's not silly. If that's what you want to do, go for it.
    I'm a mountain bike guide in South West Utah

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    Quote Originally Posted by Silentfoe View Post
    It's not silly. If that's what you want to do, go for it.
    Front Derailuers are so cheap there's not really a reason not to replace it, I've learned since posting that question.


    Do I need a long or medium cage rear derailuer?

  46. #96
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    Quote Originally Posted by Krunk_Kracker View Post
    Front Derailuers are so cheap there's not really a reason not to replace it, I've learned since posting that question.


    Do I need a long or medium cage rear derailuer?
    If you are keeping 3 chainrings you will need the long cage. If going to 1x or 2x than run a medium cage.

    More detail here When to use a Long Cage vs Short Cage Derailleur?

  47. #97
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    Quote Originally Posted by eff View Post
    If you are keeping 3 chainrings you will need the long cage. If going to 1x or 2x than run a medium cage.

    More detail here When to use a Long Cage vs Short Cage Derailleur?
    Ahh, now that you said that, it makes sense. More chainrings means longer chain which means longer cage to take up the slack.

    Thank you. I can't rep you, as I must have repped you recently.

    :EDIT:

    From reading that link, looks like it might be a good idea for me to relearn my gears using the biggest chainring, since that would give me more clearence with the rear derailuer. Right now, my favorites tend to be 2/ 2-3-4-5

  48. #98
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    Clearance with your RD isn't really ever an issue. It's so close to the wheel that the tire itself creates a barrier before anything hits the RD. I've been riding since 1991 and knock on wood, never broken a RD.
    I'm a mountain bike guide in South West Utah

  49. #99
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    Quote Originally Posted by techGuy714 View Post
    Just test rode a Talon 1, Revel 0, trek marlin and mamba. The marlin was super unimpressive, and the mamba was ok. The talon 1 was nice but in the end the Revel just felt great to ride. So on Tuesday I'm going to buy my first mountain bike which will be the Revel 0. So pumped
    I'm pretty sure you'll like it. I like mine a lot. I test rode a GT and a TREK but had to settle on the Revel 0.

  50. #100
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    Learned en route ....

    I was mounting a tubular luggage rack to my Revel yesterday and discovered that the 5mm X 10 rack mounting screws in the seat stays are garbage. Very weak metal. I had one bust off and never felt it coming. Did not strip or cross-thread it, either. Had to use a drill & extractor to remove it - total PITA. Replaced with 5mm stainless cap screws. Much better.

    On the bright side, it was a lovely afternoon for a ride on the Revel to the hardware store for an extractor and new screws.

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