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Thread: NRS fork length

  1. #1
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    NRS fork length

    What's the maximum recommended fork length for NRS (NRS3 2003 in my case), the maximum, above which the frame/head tube can break ?

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    I am not sure what they recommend but I know plenty of people, myself included, who run 100mm forks. I am currently running a Marathon S 105 on mine.
    Quote Originally Posted by velco
    What's the maximum recommended fork length for NRS (NRS3 2003 in my case), the maximum, above which the frame/head tube can break ?

  3. #3
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    Hello there,
    I was going to post the same question.
    I just got a new NRS3 that comes with 80mm Judy TT (heavy & sorry). A friend of mine has a Blur (XC bike with max of 100mm) with Fox TALAS running @ 125mm and feel the geometry has changed, but is FAR MORE comfortable than my NRS (too racy of position, thinking of changing the pedal to BMX-style, as well).
    I am planning to get a new fork soon, with 100-125mm travel (possibly Manitou Black, Vanilla, or TALAS RL). I know 100mm should not be a problem (LBS guy told me), but am not sure if 125mm can affect the frame strength (or, any other factor).
    Anybody has experience / recommendation / suggestion about this?
    Another question, by fitting the long-travel, it will make the riding position more comfortable for long-ride, is it not?

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    Same thing here - I'm considering Manitou Minute 1:00 for making the bike a bit more enduro inclined.

    As for the position, I'd rather think a low travel fork (setting) would be more appropriate for hours and hours of pedalling.

  5. #5
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    hello all,
    i ride a 16.5 NRS2 '03 with 100mm marzocchi mx pro w/eta suspension fork. i am exchanging it with a noleen 80mm fork because the 100mm raised the front end of the bike causing slowers turning (chopper). if you insist in running 100mm fork then i suggest your order the SGF aftermarket rocker arms on ebay to level the bike. the SGF rocker link adds travel to the rear shock which evens out the 100mm front travel.

    dirt diggler

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    Hey Diggler, how do the aftermarket rockers affect the over all performance of the bike. I assume more travel and some more initial plushness. Does it sacrifice much in the way of pedaling efficiency?

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    Quote Originally Posted by berudd
    Hey Diggler, how do the aftermarket rockers affect the over all performance of the bike. I assume more travel and some more initial plushness. Does it sacrifice much in the way of pedaling efficiency?
    I have seen these rockers and have a couple of questions. First does this void the warranty on the frame? Second is the current rear shock have enough stroke to accomodate the larger travel?

    I thought about getting them at one point but then I figured this bike is not designed for that much travel it is more of a "race" oriented bike. Of course ever since then I have toyed with the idea. How much are they again?

  8. #8
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    Yes, they prob will void the warrenty...assuming you tell Gaint you used them to begin with. Shock stroke? The shock stroke is a constant. The rockers just increase the leverage ratio from the shock to swingarm(chainstay), thats all. 1.5" up front, is multiplied to 4.5" at the axle..same way as the std rockers do it to 3.75". The real question at hand is: how does the shock handle the extra leverage? It must obviously be boosted in both psi and rebound to handle the extra leverage. This can be a problem with heavier riders, cause now they will be approaching or even exceed the factory reccommended max psi of 250. The other is that the shock WILL wear out sooner. Just physics, plain and simple. I sold DirtDiggler his rockers for the record. Still have a blue set as well.

    For the record, the original question(fork length)is rather silly. Too many varibles, ie:ride style, rr axle run height(like the rockers), weight of the rider, fork setup, etc etc etc, for any kind of useful answer. For correct handling, one should stay in the 80-100mm range with std rockers. Period. But, I ran a 115mm(4.6")Fox Vanilla R in the front of ny "epic" nrs with the 4.5" rockers for a long time, and it was fine. I have 2 NRS's, one for racing..one for trails, so I always have a reference for handling in both directions.

    Only pic I have of the rockers ATM. The race bike with them in this one. Yes they are race-able. Fork was 3lb 5oz Zoke Marathon 02 100mm airfork.

    Last edited by Duckman; 07-29-2004 at 02:31 PM.

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    Hey Duckman and dirtdilger you still running the SGF links? I know you still have them but you still running them? How do they hold up as far as longevity. Do they REALLY wear out the rear shock THAT much faster? Figured I would ask cause it seems like you have had them for a while. Was thinking about using them for "epic" rides in the mountians here in North Carolina. If you all are not running them anymore why not?
    Last edited by mtbcyclist; 08-03-2004 at 04:56 AM.

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    hello all,
    yes i still have them on my bike, ad thanks again duckman. so far so good. the sgf rocker bearings do need a bit of tlc after a few months, which is opening the them and cleaning and lube. as far as plush . yes and very smooth. great addition to 100mm forks.

    dirt diggler

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    one more thing to add. wit the stock rockers i noticed that the crankarms hit obstacles (rocks and such) on the downstroke, but with the new sgf rockers it minimized most of the interference. the wheelbase is a tad longer 1/4" and seems stable.

    dirt diggler

  12. #12
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    Both my SID race rear shocks have a LOT of time on them. Seems lately, they have a hard time keeping the 200psi setting the rockers require for my weight(165lbs before the CBak and stuff). figure they are just gettign tired(2 yrs of racing/riding full time since I'm on a long 2yr vacation hehehe), so lately I don't run them. Too lazy to rebuild them I guess, since they work with the std rockers with no leak downs. Plus the std rockers are 60gms lighter , and I'm a WW for sure. They ROCK for epics in NC. Used them alot in Pisgah. Heartbreak Ridge, Avery Creek, Black Mtn, etc. The rear derail cable sometimes needs to be lengthened at the pivot housing section. They are a larger scale, so the angle of attack at the rocker to upper chainstay pivot is more effective, and makes the bike even more plush then if otherwise wasn't and just had the extra 1" of travel. The bad part of that is, the shock needs more psi even in the std 3.5" setting cause of this factor.

    The black NRS w/ the rockers just before a NC epic ride at Heartbreak Ridge.


    Last edited by Duckman; 08-03-2004 at 08:53 AM.

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    Duck man, what do you mean by "Cbak and stuff".(165lbs before the CBak and stuff)

    I see you also got a Marzocchi Fork on there? How do you like it. Thinking about upgrading to a Marzocchi fork. I like fox, but I don't like there stiff price tag (neither does the wife )
    Is that an air fork?

  14. #14
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    [QUOTE=mtbcyclist]Duck man, what do you mean by "Cbak and stuff".(165lbs before the CBak and stuff)

    Meaning add about 10-12lbs for water, spares, etc. CBak=CamelBak pack.

    The fork? Yes, its the same Zoke 02 Marathon 100mm airfork on the blue bike above. Its on neither right now, as its on my HT race bike as of last night(had a big fork swap fest sorta..again). They're(zoke)lightest made fork. 3lbs 5oz(3.28lb) on my scale. The 03 version is like 3lbs 13oz. Good fork. Light, smooth, lockout, and 2 rebound settings. I've also run a Fox Vanilla R on that bike, as well as a Sid Team, Duke SL100, Noleen 100mm(whats on it now, but just stuck it back on last night from the Duke...again). The Fox's will be smoother/stiffer, but like you said...the $$ is big concern sometimes, and its not "that" much smoother IMHO. The Vanilla was just too heavy for my taste. Sold it after a year.

    The Noleen on the same bike a few months ago. Love this fork. 32mm stantions. Smooth and stiff. Air dampened(no oil, just grease fittings)..and on closeout for $99 from $400 retail. bought 2 and have both on each NRS at present. Weighs the same as a POS Sid. 3lbs even.




    The Blue race only ride...21lb 7oz in this pic.


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    Where did you get the Noleen from? Who makes it? Can you get parts for it? Is it your favorite fork? Travel lengths?

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    duckman,
    i just scored a noleen with shaved off brake bosses, just disc only application so now even lighter. i had to repaint it. very easy to take apart to convert from 80mm to 100mm travel via spacers. parts are still available by k2.
    by far a nice fork with microlube ports, 32mm stanchions for stiffness, very easy to service. i did have the left side leak as others mention, but quickly remedied with teflon tape and thread pipe seal.

    i still need to experiment with air pressure for my weight (165 lbs.)

    there's one on ebay as we speak.

    dirt diggler

  17. #17
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    Quote Originally Posted by mtbcyclist
    Where did you get the Noleen from? Who makes it? Can you get parts for it? Is it your favorite fork? Travel lengths?
    Wow...lots of Qs.

    Lets see...

    ediscountbike.com(ebay), as they just finished blowing out hundreds that were new "take-offs".

    K2

    I dunno

    Yes it could be, for the weight/performance, it can't be beat at ANY price

    75 and 100mm being easily adjustable

  18. #18
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    Quote Originally Posted by Duckman
    ...They are a larger scale, so the angle of attack at the rocker to upper chainstay pivot is more effective, and makes the bike even more plush then if otherwise wasn't and just had the extra 1" of travel. The bad part of that is, the shock needs more psi even in the std 3.5" setting cause of this factor.
    Interesting thread regarding the SGF aftermarket rocker arms -- I had just about backed away from getting an NRS frame due to all the feedback about it being a 'race only' bike. I have been leaning heavily towards used StumpJumper frame.

    Then I read some comments in another post that the NRS is great if most of the stuff you are riding over is 3"-5" roots & rocks w/ a few 1'-2' drops thrown in for good measure (which is what I am typically riding over here near Charlotte, NC). I had wondered if SGF aftermarket rocker arms would help plush out the ride. How much difference will they make?

    I would be running a Noleen up front, too, as I picked one up before they sold out. I had it long enough to figure out that I should pick up another as a spare, but I did not act quick enough. Anyway, do the SGF aftermarket rocker arms help the ride that much? Also, do they have any downside on the reduce pedal bob?

    I recently built out my ht & have decided to move over to a dual sus. -- I plan to transfer most all of the parts to the dual susp frame when I get it. Any suggestion on what year NRS to get or which one to avoid? I seem to remember reading that some improvements were made to the 2002 frames. I believe the 2004 frames are made for 100mm travel, but they are too much for my budget right now.
    Last edited by journey; 08-03-2004 at 07:41 PM.

  19. #19
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    The rockers make a very noticeable difference in the ride. Climbing and descending both are much improved. The shock is setup the same so the shock is JUST topped out. Stand over clearance is slightly reduced, and wheelbase is slightly increased for a touch slower steering.

    The Noleen fork is the best kept secret in forks this year me thinks. Been racing one all season with no problems. My 03 Sid Team isn't even close except for weight. POS. cost me 5 times as much. Already sold ot for a huge loss.

    The 00 NRS broke frames(seat tube)like crazy between the shock mnts(no gusset that year). The 01 fixed this. The 02 fixed the lower rear chainstay design from being hit by the chain all the time. The 03s got the nice and also stiffer hydro formed gussets for the TT and DTs where they meet the steer tube. 04s got a Fox shock and redesigned rear triangle, as well as a tighter(1degree) steertube angle so it takes a 100mm fork argubly better.
    My 03 black from was snag'd on Ebay back in Sept of 02 coming from Oregon. The blue 02 was a frame build my LBS built up and got into SSs b4 ever riding it. I've since rebuilt it over about 3 times. IMHO, the NRS is alot of frame for the $ spent if one is patient.
    Last edited by Duckman; 08-03-2004 at 08:12 PM.

  20. #20
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    Thx for the feedback on the rockers & the various models--I will 'bookmark' this post. Sounds like the best deal will be to go for an '02 or '03 if the budget allows. I had read about the chainslap and am glad to hear that the '02's take care of it.

    Seems like the SGF aftermarket rocker arms will be the way to go for a bit more 'plush' ride. Also, it looks like getting a Cane Creek rear shock would be a nice addition/ upgrade at some point (got to have something to look forward too ;-)

    BTW, do the SGF rocker arms have any affect on the 'brake jack' issue that I have read about? How bad is it anyway? Some folks seem to be really affected by it. Is it any more harsh than what I experience on HT when applying the rear brake while going over ruts/ roots? (yes, lots of questions by inquiring minds...)

  21. #21
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    Agree on the 02 and up frame choice. I resisted that very statement since one of mine is an 02...but that "why" it is. The 02s had all the bugs sorted out. Just got stiffer in 03..and more refined in 04. My 02 has been raced the most on some courses that beg to break frames, 60 miles of Pisgah Death March action, 2 years of xc slamming, etc. If it broke tomorrow, I'd have to say.."what took it so long to break?"...so thats not a bad indorsement IMHO. I've heard of many Blurs cracking lately. How old can any of those frames be?

    The rockers makes the rear overall more compliant. The brake jack is overcome more easily going down by bumps, as is the topping out as one excellerates over bumps on flat and ups. The brakejack comepared to a HT? Not even close. I have a 22lb HT thats race spec with big volumn Karma tires(comfort), that has the Marathon fork above, cabon bars(comfort), etc..and it beats me to death in the rear over our SE roots and rocks. I ride it in the rough ever so often to remind me how "smooth" my NRS rides are. Many other designs do the brakejack drill in descents(RacerX comes to mind)also by the way. Detracters just seem to bash the NRS the most for it. Yes its a race oriented bike, but its still 'just a bike'...that happens to be light, quick, and very efficient when it counts, whether its racing, or climbing Black Mtn in Pisgah. Its all good.

    Duckster

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    Thanks for all the info fellas. I just sucked it up and ordered me a set. I will post my opionions later.

  23. #23
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    Fork length, sgf rockers, and cane creek

    * I had read about the chainslap and am glad to hear that the '02's take care of it.*

    Weird, I'm riding what I think is an '01 and i've never noticed any big issue with chainslap. hmmm

    **Seems like the SGF aftermarket rocker arms will be the way to go for a bit more 'plush' ride. Also, it looks like getting a Cane Creek rear shock would be a nice addition/ upgrade at some point (got to have something to look forward too ;-)**

    I just put a set of sgf arms on my bike -- Sergio lowered the price to $49, great deal. They do make the rear a bit more *active*, which is to say I feel it moving a bit more than it did with the stock arms. But I wouldn't describe it as bad or problematic. I could probably go up a bit more on rear shock pressure and take care of this but it's kinda cool and plush right now. I'm currently running ~20lbs. more than I did with the stock arms. Also, he doesn't mention it on the website, but he makes two *versions* of the arms, a light and a heavy. Let him know what your riding weight is (c-bak, shoes and all...) and he'll hook you up. I'm at about 195-200 all decked-out.

    I have an AD12 on my bike and love it. Tossed the crap-ola sid as quickly as I could -- it wouldn't hold air. I'd run an AD5 before I ran one of the sids. YMMV

    Up front I just switched from an f80x to a 100rlt. I've also run a variety of forks on this bike, including a sid (crap) and a duke (good), may have had my marathon S on here at some point in time, too. I agree that the combination of rockers and longer travel fork make it a tad slower steering. It's no big deal, doesn't bother me at all, just feels a little different. As I mentioned in another thread/post, when I put the arms on I also replaced the bushings. Feels great.

    Again, gotta agree with dman, I don't look at the nrs as just a race frame, or as *just* a cross-country frame. It's certainly not a dh or even a freeride frame but just a nice, capable all-around frame. I too am amazed that mine hasn't failed with all the riding i've done on it. But unlike a sc blur (which I wouldn't mind owning) when this one fails, I'll go on ebay and pick up another used frame for 3-400 and that'll be that.

    ***BTW, do the SGF rocker arms have any affect on the 'brake jack' issue that I have read about? How bad is it anyway? Some folks seem to be really affected by it. Is it any more harsh than what I experience on HT when applying the rear brake while going over ruts/ roots? (yes, lots of questions by inquiring minds...)***

    I have yet to experience this. Not even sure if I'd know it if it occured... I run the four-pot xt (765's?) discs on my bike and they're great stoppers. No weirdness or issues, 'cept maybe a little drag.

    cheers

  24. #24
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    I've got an 03 NRS w/ the SGF rockers (light version) and a Fox Float100rlc and I dig it. The only complaint I have w/ the setup is the fact that it makes the wheelbase longer and reduces standover (although increasing ground/pedal clearance). I prefer a slightly shorter wheelbase which makes riding manuals easier, but after riding it for awhile you will get used to it- like any new bike. I would'nt mind having a talas or other adj. travel fork sometimes, but the way I ride now I often wonder how long my frame will last at 100mm of travel. If you feel the need to have 5" of travel all the time the NRS is just not for you.
    Schralp it Heavy.

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