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  1. #1
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    Lust Advanced dropper post routing

    I've just set up my wife's new Lust Advanced 2 with a few parts from her old bike. One of them being her dropper post. As the bike has internal routing, there aren't any external cable guides for the dropper post cable. Is there anyway that I can route the cable other than using zip ties on the top tube? If she got a reverb stealth, would she need to get a new rubber grommet to allow for the dropper and shifter cable? Looks to only allow for one cable at the moment.

  2. #2
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    I used the jag wire stick on guides. They work great and keeps everything "clean". Will try to post some picks of how I ran them. However, I am routing it internally, eventually.

    Stick-On Guides | Jagwire

    No the grommet will accommodate another cable. If you choose to set it up internally, just pull the crank and BB. Then all you have to do is push the housing through the top grommet and keep feeding it until you see it in the BB shell.

  3. #3
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    Great, thanks for that! I've just ordered some of the Jagwire stick on guides. If you get a chance to post pics of the routing that would be awesome.

    In regard to internally routing it at some stage, the grommet at the top appears to only have one hole, does yours have 2, or do you just force the dropper housing through the current whole, along with the shifter housing?

    At the moment, my wife has a Joplin dropper, so it's not a Stealth model. Can this be internally routed, coming out the BB and up the seat stay or something like that? Sorry, I'm away at there moment and can't see the bike myself.

  4. #4
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    Sorry looks like I don't have the pics anymore. And I converted to internal yesterday.

    I put one on the back of the post its self. Right on the screw cap. This keeps the cable from flaring out when compressing.
    The next stop was near the junction of the top tube and seat tube. not under neath the top tube but kind of on the side.

    I then ran 2 more under the top tube. One about half way and the last one near the grommet. What this allowed is for the housing to slide easily so when compressed. You do get a bit more cable out in front of the bars, but she is running a post that only has 75mm of drop so that wasn't much of an issue.

    i just "shoved" the cable housing into the grommet on the right side. No problems there. I guess if you really wanted to you could take it out and "cut" a hole for it, but it wasn't needed.

  5. #5
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    Sweet, thanks for that!

  6. #6
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    Had a few minutes tonight so here you go.
    Here is an idea of how I used the Jag stick on guides. Yellow are the guides, green the housing and the Purple is where I put 2" electrical tape, because the cable slides up and down on the seat tube there.


    Couple shots of it run stealth.



    Bar set up


    Grommet Pic:


    Maxis Ikon 2.35 Front


    Maxis Ikon 2.35 Rear


    Anthem Advance 1 Stealth


    Anthem Advance 1 BB. The lust frame is identical.

  7. #7
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    That's awesome, thanks for taking the time to put up this info!

  8. #8
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    Hey heythorp, I routed my wife's Joplin using the stick on cable guides and it worked great. The post not so much so, I think it's blown seals again so rather than mess around with it any more I got a good deal on a Giant dropper post that I'll route internally. I just wanted to double checked, the bb will need to be removed to install the housing won't it? I don't have the tools to install the press fit bb so I'll take it to the lbs to do, but I want to make sure that was the case first.

  9. #9
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    Steps to route cable.

    1. Pull Crank:
    You will most likely need to bang the crank off. You do not need a crank puller. I used a piece of wood and a hammer. Came off with a couple of soft taps close to the spindle.

    2. Remove BB:
    With the Lust 2 try to remove the drive side only. The bb tube is permanently attached to the drive side bearing. If you can remove that one first there is no need to remove the non drive side bearing.

    I use a socket just small enough to fit through the bearing and lightly bang the bearing out. I tap against it move from side to side in order to push out the bearing as straight as possible.

    NOTE!!
    These bearings are not meant to be reused by design even if you have a bearing removal tool.

    3: Run cable housing:
    From the right side grommet pull the cable housing out towards you. (I ran mine "behind" the shifter cable, as in i pulled the shifter cable towards the rear of the bike, so the dropper post housing was behind the shifter cable, but more "forward" or closer to the head tube.)
    It should feed directly into the BB. If it gets hung up just keep trying until you get it down there. There shouldn't be a problem. When I did the LUST it went straight through, when I did my anthem the housing was curled in a way it was catching on the inside of the tube. Took 4 tries and got it.

    Once inside the BB shell its easy to route it up the seat tube.

    4: Install seat post.
    Watch this video for converting the Giant post from external to internal.
    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZdT06EF_H6E

    Do all of you adjusting before you put everything back together. Make sure you are happy with everything.

    5. BB reinstallation:

    Like I said, the BB is not intended to be reused and my anthem "creaks" ever so slightly on very steep grinding climbs (more on that later). I did pull it again and used the green loc-tite. I have not riden it yet though and I did order a replacement and have it ready to go.

    By design these BB and Shells are very "loose" fitting. I installed the bearing back into my anthem with the palm of my hand!!!! I couldn't believe this and thought perhaps the BB shell was out of spec until I read this.

    PRESS-IN MTB BOTTOM BRACKET FROM REAL WORLD CYCLING
    "Because manufacturing tolerances vary, on many frames no special tools will be necessary to install the cups as they will press in by hand. On frames with a tighter fit, a mechanical means of pressing in the cups may be required"

    The Lust/GXP was definitely a much tighter fit that the Anthem/BB92. I used a threaded rod/nut/2" washer homemade bearing press. You could probably use a vice or big C-clamp with a couple 3x3 pieces of steel plate or plywood. to give an even press over the bearing.

    Good luck.

    And tap lightly getting the bearings out.
    Last edited by heythorp; 05-08-2014 at 10:03 AM.

  10. #10
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    There is one other way to route this cable without removing the BB. I have never done it, but its how my shop does it for some bikes.

    1. Remove seat post
    2. remove front right grommet
    3. Remove wheels ( to make the bike light and easy to move around.
    4. run shifter cable down seat tube.

    Now the fun starts, you need a strong magnet, shop has a small but strong rare earth magnet.

    Its hard to see the bend in Lust/Anthem frame where you need the cable to go, but you need to use the magnet/gravity to guide the wire to the right place.

    Once you get it into the down tube all you have to do is push it up further and then use the magnet once again to "fish" it towards the grommet hole. You might want a good pair of needle nose pliers to grab it.

    Now that you have the shifter cable routed, you attach cable housing to it and then pull it back through to run the housing.

    Make sure its attached well or you will go fishing again.

  11. #11
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    sorry to dig up an oldish thread, but I did this with my wife's lust advanced a few weeks ago (KS Lev integra dropper) it sounds like I found a slightly easier way to do it than described here.

    First up I put a ~30 - 45 degree bend in the last inch of the cable housing. Next up I removed the seatpost and pushed the cable housing down. When I got to the BB, I gently pushed it whilst twisting the cable housing. After a few goes the cable housing turned the corner and I was able to push it all the way up the down tube. I retrieved it from the grommet hole with needle nose pliers.

    cheers

    tim

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