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  1. #1
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    HT II XT cranks on VT frame...???

    I just had my LBS install the new HT II XT cranks on my Giant VT - cost me $30. Didn't want to pay for a tune up because that was an extra $50. I know how to perform a complete overhaul, but I don't have the FC32 BB wrench needed for the HT II cranks. Anyway, I tried for hours to get my front derailleur to hook up properly - usually only takes about 15-20 minutes. I'm convinced my chain line is off.

    The LBS installed one spacer on the drive side and two spacers on the non-drive side... I'm not 100% sure what width I need, but I think I need to remove one of the spacers from the non-drive side (since there are two installed and the front derailleur just won't work right). I'm thinking I need 113mm? Using only two spacers (one on each side) would give me 113mm right?

    Can someone please help me out? If anyone knows what BB width I need or if its the same BB width as your bike as well, please tell me how you have the HT II cranks installed on your bike...

    Much appreciated.

  2. #2
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    its suppose to be 2 spacers on the driveside (the side with the chainrings) and 1 spacer on the non driveside. If your Vt is like my nrs (68x113) then you have to use all three spacers. In order to use only 2 spaces (on each side) on a 68x113 you need to have a e-type derailleur. You can find the bb width on the old bb that was on the bike. Hope that helps. For sure... the two spacers does not go on the non drive side.

  3. #3
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    Thats exactly right (what 2002NRS said). 2 spacers on the driveside, 1 spacer on the non-drive side (for 68mm BB Shell). For 73mm shells you run 1 spacer on the driveside and none on the non-drive side.

    If you run an e-type mech, you replace one spacer on the drive-side with the mech-plate.

    Hope that helps.

  4. #4
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    Quote Originally Posted by 2002NRS
    its suppose to be 2 spacers on the driveside (the side with the chainrings) and 1 spacer on the non driveside. If your Vt is like my nrs (68x113) then you have to use all three spacers. In order to use only 2 spaces (on each side) on a 68x113 you need to have a e-type derailleur. You can find the bb width on the old bb that was on the bike. Hope that helps. For sure... the two spacers does not go on the non drive side.
    same goes for LX HTII cranks.

  5. #5
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    yer - that goes without saying (at least i thought :-P)

  6. #6
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    Since you don't have the tool and the bike shop did it wrong, I would expect that they should re do it correctly for no charge.

    Good luck!

  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by Smidge
    Thats exactly right (what 2002NRS said). 2 spacers on the driveside, 1 spacer on the non-drive side (for 68mm BB Shell). For 73mm shells you run 1 spacer on the driveside and none on the non-drive side.

    If you run an e-type mech, you replace one spacer on the drive-side with the mech-plate.

    Hope that helps.
    sure about the spacer requirement for 73mm shells? i installed the lx cranks without any spacers on my zaskar (73mm) without issue...

    the instruction cartoon that came with the set blows.

  8. #8
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    OK, I'm an idiot! It's installed just as some have said. I just double checked and the non-drive side has 1 spacer and the drive side has 2 spacers. I must have been too frustrated and got it mixed up...

    Anyway, my front derailleur still does not match up. I've removed it and repositioned it at least 5 times and it just won't work properly... I can't get onto the large ring! The small and middle rings work fine.

    I know what I'm doing, because I just tuned my other bike's front and rear derailleurs (Specialized hard tail) in about 20 minutes without any problems. This is driving me crazy. Here is how I'm installing the front derailleur: make sure shifter is on lowest gear (right index finger trigger on XT pods) and let out all cable slack and turn barrel adjuster about 90% inside. Position front derailleur about 2-3mm above large ring (making sure the chain doesn't touch the chain guide when on both small rings front and back at same time). Then tighten front derailleur and pull cable and tighten cable bolt. Then check movement from small to middle ring and then check movement from middle to large ring in which case I usually have to turn the barrel adjuster a little bit to tighten cable so the chain will jump up to large ring with minor adjustments to the limit screws.

    Here is my problem: chain will not jump onto large ring! (barrel adjustment won't work cuz the large ring is still outside the chain guide of front derailleur and should be in the middle.) This is why I believe its a chainline issue...???

    I checked the ParkTools website and saw the 4 diagrmas of installation. Although there is no diagram of 1 spacer on the non-drive side and 2 spacers on the drive side, do you think this will correct my problem? I certainly don't want to install it incorrectly... But, I'm almost 99% convinced its a chain line issue. What else could it be?

    Front derailleur installation and tuning is not this difficult (at least it never has been) and I've installed several cranks and performed several overhauls over the years without this much hassle...

  9. #9
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    Well if you can't figure it out then just take out a spacer on the drive side... make sure you take out the plastic tube that goes between the two cups (it just protects the shaft.. inside the bb area.. I dont think you really need it but thats up to you). If you dont use the right amount of spaces, that plastic tube will get crushed... my friend did that to his. You should invest in the tools though...the tl-fc32 is around 12 bucks (got that at a local performance bike store) and the tl-fc16 is around 2 bucks (my lbs sells them for 2 bucks, san jose,ca). The HT II cranks are one of the easiest things to install/remove on a bike.

    http://www.speedgoat.com/product.asp...=330&brand=226

    pictures of the tl-fc16
    http://www.totalcycling.com/ProductD...tegoryID/42/v/

    I dont recommend the park tool that has both of those tools in one wrench because you can accidently over tighten the bolt for the tl-fc16 easily

  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by drunkle
    sure about the spacer requirement for 73mm shells? i installed the lx cranks without any spacers on my zaskar (73mm) without issue...

    the instruction cartoon that came with the set blows.
    I'm positive - i've fitted enough of them in the shop.

  11. #11
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    thinking about it, the only thing spacers on the non drive side could do is affect centerline of the cranks and Q factor.

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