Hello,
The purpose of this thread is to hear of modifications people have made to their giant reign to find out what works and what doesn't.
I am very interested to know about switching the rear shock for something other than the DHX air. I have also heard of guys changing the stroke legnth on the rear shock to gain more travel ie...from 2" stroke and 6" travel to 2.35" stroke 6.75" travel. Anyone tried this?
Here's my mods;
2009 Giant Reign 0
-36 Fox Talas , brings my head tube angle to 66.5 and the BB just over 14". I really like this setup, makes the reign much more capable on gnarly descents but just as versatile for climbs, XC type stuff. It comes with a 1lb weight penalty.
-KS i950r adjustable seat post with 5" travel. For me this was necessary because as you know the interrupted seat tube on a reign did not allow for maximum extension for climbing AND total drop down for downhill. this post is awesome, adjust on the fly and have the seat right where you want it depending on what your riding. it comes with a 1/2lb weight penalty.
-RaceFace Bashgaurd
-Chromag 50mm Ranger Stem for better control downhill and less of a felling like i'm going over the bars
-Chromag Fubars OS 730mm for extra stability, less twitchyness
so hey...you put a rear shock with a 2.25 stroke rather than a 2.00 stroke..
can you please elaborate on what this does to the rear suspension....
ie...less bottom out? less blowing through midstroke travel? more travel? any drawbacks?
thanks
Since the shock has .25 inch longer stroke and the reign has a 3:1 ratio you get an extra 3/4" travel. Not a huge difference but it's useful since the linkage doesn't provide much progression until the last bit of travel.
I bought it from CRC. No reason in particular, I actually did buy a 5.0, but it the size was misquoted to me. In the end, I just went with the 4.0, because it was cheap and there wasn't anything else going. It's really good though. I find that with the progressive stroke, the bottom-out resist is somewhat redundant.
It's hard to say, really, since the shock is slightly different. The problem with the stock Rp2 (Aus stock) was that with the correct sag it always blew through the travel. It may be because I am a little on the heavy side, but it is a problem many people have encountered. I figured that the extra travel wouldn't hurt, and I heard of a few people doing it, so I did to experiment. The results are pretty good so far, it doesn't change the stroke at all, it just gives it a bit more of a bottomless feel (as opposed to the stock). As far as I can tell, there aren't any drawbacks, although I did have to shift the front derailleur up, as it would have made contact at full compression.
As a side note, I would like to try a few other setups, maybe a coil shock (I've heard of pretty good results), and maybe a DHX 5.0 (large volume).
Have a question... really want to change out the rear hub to a hope pro II. But I am on a budget and will only be able to do the back for the moment, which I don't think is an issue (or is it?). Can I lace the pro II to the stock WTB laserdisc rim in the mean time or will I have to replace the rim as well? Keep in mind I eventually want to go hope pro II front and back with DT 5.1s and DT comps. BUT until then, is there an issue with just getting the new rear hub and lacing it up to the stock rim with some new spokes?
im no expert on lacing wheels, i think you can use the rims but may need new spokes...
however, what i do know, the cheapest place for hope hubs or custom built wheelsets with hope hubs is chain reaction cycles...even after shipping/duty to north america.
I guess I can either experiment or just get the back wheel built up completely and wait to do the front. The latter of the two seems like the more intelligent thing to do anyway. Besides I am not too concerned about anyone asking why I rock two different wheels haha. Biking on a budget right. If it goes it goes.
Thanks. Kinda mixed on the Highrollers. HR 2.35 are narrower than my Nevegal 2.35's. They are light, fast rolling tires, but I feel they are a bit narrow for the size. As for the coil, night and day difference coming from the DHX4.0, and at 2.25 travel you gain extra travel. Much better handling on jump landing/ drops and rough downhills. No bottom out issues at all (550lb. spring - 195 rider weight.) Climbing with the coil feels no different than with ProPedal on the DHX 4.0. I had to press out the bottom bushing on the VanRC to get the Giant 8mm shock mounting pin to fit (Van RC is spec'd 6mm.) Other than that.....would highly recommend switching to the coil.
I skimmed all the post...I want a 2.25 stroke dhx 5.0 on my reign. If you bottom it out will the air can slam into the downtube. I wanted the new reign x but with all the breakage it will be fine just uping the travel.
Thanks. Kinda mixed on the Highrollers. HR 2.35 are narrower than my Nevegal 2.35's. They are light, fast rolling tires, but I feel they are a bit narrow for the size. As for the coil, night and day difference coming from the DHX4.0, and at 2.25 travel you gain extra travel. Much better handling on jump landing/ drops and rough downhills. No bottom out issues at all (550lb. spring - 195 rider weight.) Climbing with the coil feels no different than with ProPedal on the DHX 4.0. I had to press out the bottom bushing on the VanRC to get the Giant 8mm shock mounting pin to fit (Van RC is spec'd 6mm.) Other than that.....would highly recommend switching to the coil.
Dont think there would be an issue with the canister hitting the downtube with the 5.0. When switching to 2.25 travel, I needed to raise the front derailleur maybe 1/8 inch to make sure the bottom swing arm does not come in contact when bottoming the shock out.
I've swapped out the stock brakes for the Avid Code 5 ( I love the stopping power)
Deity Stem
and most recently installed the Raceface Atlas AM cranks ( love it)
my next move is toward the 2011 Fox 36 Float, seems the logical thing to do
since there isn't much of a weight penalty and I'll be gaining so much more out of the bike.
Although I have to admit the stock Fox 32 140mm Float has held up on everything I've thrown at it (Sun Peaks, Rossland, Beacon, 7-Summits) all those places its done really well.
Anyway I just love this bike and the coloring, I'll probably add a Trance X to the lineup this year.
it doesnt feel unbalanced, but it does slacken your head tube angle and seat tube angle which makes climbing less efficient. this can be overcome by having a travel adjust fork.
the only complaint i have is that it added a half an inch or so the the wheelbase.
Upgrades:
2010 Fox 36 Talas
CrankBros 4in Adjustable seatpost (Can't live without this thing)
Wider Bars
Shorter Stem
ODI Grips
XT Pedals
WTB Rocket V Seat
Race Face Bash Guard
Better Kenda's, i flatted the stock's more than any tire i've ever owned.
yes changing your fork to a 36 does void the warranty. i dont know how sticky they are on this i just always figured if i had a problem i'd take the fork off first or borrow a 32 from someone.
XL and it looks even bigger in person, if you don't have 9 3/4 of steer, you cant fit the fork. Biggest dang bike i've ever owned. The L was just a little too small for me.
I've got a mismatched wheel set, the rear is the stock WTB, the front is from my buddies Trek Remedy. He won a new wheel set in a raffle and graciously sold me the 1 year old front. So its a Bontrager Rhythm, I'm thinking of making it tubeless.
Can anyone confirm fittment of a 2.4 maxxis advantage on the rear of a 2009 Giant reign?
It currently has 2.35 Nevegals with some room to spare.
I am having a hard time finding an appropriate tire to run on the rear of my reign tubeless on some flow rims. it seems you need the bigger sizes to get a strong sidewall and the advantage 2.4 single ply has a reinforced sidewall where as the 2.25 doesn't.
other recommendations welcome;
criteria;
good climbing
strong sidewall
good rolling
good grip mostly dry but good for wet days also.
easy tubeless conversion on flow rims
- stem: now using a 60mm Raceface Atlas AM ; i have felt a big difference bombing down trails, but it definitely makes climbing difficult and the front nervous on the ups.
- pedals: 50/50 Crankbros , reason, is easier to avoid big crashes with platforms than clips and they looked nice with my Reign´s color.
- Grips: Ergon GA1 white, amazing grips, after this I might never go back.
Next upgrades:
- complete bike for a 2011 =))))
or
- Fork: Talas with 15QR axle
- Hubs: Hope Pro II
- Wheelset - but which?
by the way, after 10 rides each time having pinch flats in bot tires at the end of the ride, I ditched the Nevegals, and started riding Schwalbes, on the dry , loosy stuff, or gravel roads, the FA Alberts 2.4" with Snake Skin are nothign but great, never flated or pinched.
On the wet and off-camber though...they are scary and plainly gripless. Now Im wating for my Big bettey to arrive and see how they feel.
This is actually my 3rd Giant bike, VT, Faith and the Reign, and on all 3 I had to replace the stock Tires. Nevegals are really good tires and I've been using them for 6 years, just the ones they provided on the Reign (like all their other bikes) blow.
I just wish they would put tires with thicker casing on the bikes, I'm not selecting the bike because its sub 30lbs without the pedals...
by the way, after 10 rides each time having pinch flats in bot tires at the end of the ride, I ditched the Nevegals, and started riding Schwalbes, on the dry , loosy stuff, or gravel roads, the FA Alberts 2.4" with Snake Skin are nothign but great, never flated or pinched.
On the wet and off-camber though...they are scary and plainly gripless. Now Im wating for my Big bettey to arrive and see how they feel.
yes i've heard about the alberts in that respect...its too bad because on paper they are exactly what im after. but here in BC i cant be taking chances like that over wet roots and rocks etc.
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