• 12-26-2010
    jeffj
    The Giant P-XC/S-XC Wheelset Thread
    It's hard to find more than a snippet or two here and there about the Giant house brand wheels, specifically the P-XC and S-XC models.

    The good, the bad, the ugly.

    The things I am most interested in:

    The actual rim weight(s)?

    Internal width(s)?

    What are the actual differences between the P-XC and the S-XC rims?

    Do they convert to tubeless? (and how easily do they do so?)

    And whatever else posters would like to discuss about these wheels :thumbsup:

    3. . . . . . . 2. . . . . . . 1. . . . . . . GO!
  • 12-28-2010
    alefak
    I have the SXC's and they are heavier than lead. I dont have a scale so I am interested in the weight also.
  • 12-28-2010
    iamamodel
    I've heard they are hand built.
  • 12-29-2010
    mikebobelak
    P-XC( off a Anthem 29'r 1) ,converted to tubeless about an hour ago with Stans tape and a valve. Wasn't the easiest to bead up but got it done with a compressor(Maxxis tires).
  • 12-29-2010
    TX_Shifter
    I have the S-XC2. From the information that I got from my Giant dealer is he highly praised that they are a very solid high quality rim. Also he said that they can go tubeless with stans.
  • 12-30-2010
    jeffj
    Quote:

    Originally Posted by mikebobelak
    P-XC( off a Anthem 29'r 1) ,converted to tubeless about an hour ago with Stans tape and a valve. Wasn't the easiest to bead up but got it done with a compressor(Maxxis tires).

    Good to know. Originally, these were supposed to be tubeless compatible in some way or another, but I have not heard much reported about how they actually work.

    One of the things I do when inflating tires on my own Flow rims, is that if they don't inflate right away (they almost never do) is to put my thumbs into the center of the tread and then use the my fingers on each sidewall to pull up and out as I press down with my thumbs. I do that several times (every three or four inches) around the circumference of the wheel and then put the air to it again. That pulls the beads toward the outsides of the rim and onto the 'shoulders' of the spoke bed, and usually does the trick right away.

    I also use a ball chuck (http://www.slgtools.com/ball-chuck-b...68cc62b69a1feb) and a presta to schraeder adapter rather than a standard inflator as they flow more air and are very easy to work with. to get the bead seated.

    If it didn't, I would probably put on another round or two of tape and go after it again.
  • 12-30-2010
    mikebobelak
    Quote:

    Originally Posted by jeffj
    Good to know. Originally, these were supposed to be tubeless compatible in some way or another, but I have not heard much reported about how they actually work.

    One of the things I do when inflating tires on my own Flow rims, is that if they don't inflate right away (they almost never do) is to put my thumbs into the center of the tread and then use the my fingers on each sidewall to pull up and out as I press down with my thumbs. I do that several times (every three or four inches) around the circumference of the wheel and then put the air to it again. That pulls the beads toward the outsides of the rim and onto the 'shoulders' of the spoke bed, and usually does the trick right away.

    I also use a ball chuck (http://www.slgtools.com/ball-chuck-b...68cc62b69a1feb) and a presta to schraeder adapter rather than a standard inflator as they flow more air and are very easy to work with. to get the bead seated.

    If it didn't, I would probably put on another round or two of tape and go after it again.

    Now that I've have some sleep..
    I'd recommend using a hair dryer or heat gun on low to work the tape into the rim, the center channel is fairly "deep" and the tape needed to be worked down if you want it to be "pretty".
    The front tire went on just fine; newer Ignitor with the "new sidewall", the rear was the stock tire (Anthem 29r1) Crossmark, it is not labeled as a UST/lust....so it put up the most fight.
    Agree on the "air" trick. I took it to the next level. I have a non OSHA( no line restriction) squeeze handled "air blower", with the valve core removed the " slightly modded" tip fits into the valve....
  • 12-30-2010
    Dictatorsaurus
    Im planning on goin tubeless with p-xc 29 wheels.

    Do I need one or two layers of gorilla tape?
  • 12-30-2010
    jeffj
    Quote:

    Originally Posted by mikebobelak
    Now that I've have some sleep..
    I'd recommend using a hair dryer or heat gun on low to work the tape into the rim, the center channel is fairly "deep" and the tape needed to be worked down if you want it to be "pretty".

    If you're using the yellow tape from Stans, it works best if you really pull hard on it as you go around the rim and it has always gone down all the way into the spoke bed. Don't be shy with it, it's pretty strong stuff. It's also good practice to mount up a tire with a tube in it and leave it overnight.
  • 01-05-2011
    dlorga
    Has anyone tried the guetto conversion? How was it?
  • 01-05-2011
    alefak
    has anyone weighed the sxc's or the pxc's? Im curious of the weight.
  • 01-12-2011
    Dictatorsaurus
    Converted the front wheel to tubeless using two layers of Gorilla tape. Used an Arden 2.25 tire.

    Used about 4 scoops of sealant and shook the wheel while slowly turning to get the sealant on the bead.

    Used a floor pump to get the bead pop in. The trick is to shack and turn the wheel while pumping it. Use one hand to pump while the other hand for shacking and rotating the wheel.

    Haven't ridden with the setup yet but it's holding air perfectly.
  • 02-01-2011
    gdbrekke
    What width Stan's tape did you use for the XC29 (v2) rims?

    I'm getting a Anthem X 29er 1 in a few weeks and want to have the LBS order up the right tape.
  • 02-01-2011
    pumaking


  • 02-08-2011
    salmartinez
    Thru axle to 9mm conversion on P-XC2
    a friend of mine has the P-XC2 wheels that are set to come off her 2011 Giant Anthem X1 W.

    She is looking to sell them to a friend but would like to know if the front wheel has a compatible 15mm to 9mm plug similar to what Mavic sells for there conversions? Also what do you all think would be a fare price for the set? wheels only no cassette.
  • 02-08-2011
    Duke of Earl
    My two cents:

    P-XC2 profile inner bead width is 19mm with a sleeve joint. The rim weights are: 440g (26") and 490g (29") give or take 10g. 24mm tall profile allows for a slightly shorter spoke which helps manage the overall wheel weight PLUS increase the stiffness slightly.

    S-XC2 profile inner bead width is also 19mm with a pinned joint. The rim weights are: 460g (26") and 520g (29"), also give or take 10g. A slightly shorter profile is not nearly as radially stiff which does allow for slightly greater vertical compliance.

    Hope it helps.

    B
  • 02-10-2011
    Dictatorsaurus
    Bump for more opinions on this wheelset.
  • 02-14-2011
    Sb.Reno
    I am getting my Anthem x1 29er later this week and want to set up tubeless immediately. Can you really only go with some stans/gorilla tape and a valve stem?
  • 02-15-2011
    Dictatorsaurus
    I did gorilla tape and valves.
  • 02-15-2011
    tegski
    Have done the electrical tape with valve stem - took a while to air upů
    Also just tried the 29er Bontranger symmetrical rim strip with valve made for tubeless use - very happy with this arrangement as: if there is a flat - take out valve - use existing as rim strip and add tube/tyre - off we go! Rim strip is a sort of semi hard plastic that fits right across rim.
  • 02-15-2011
    Sb.Reno
    Quote:

    Originally Posted by tegski
    Have done the electrical tape with valve stem - took a while to air upů
    Also just tried the 29er Bontranger symmetrical rim strip with valve made for tubeless use - very happy with this arrangement as: if there is a flat - take out valve - use existing as rim strip and add tube/tyre - off we go! Rim strip is a sort of semi hard plastic that fits right across rim.

    I have used these in the past with little fuss. I might just order these instead. Still cheaper than a stan's strip.
  • 02-23-2011
    jreinan01
    Quote:

    Originally Posted by salmartinez
    She is looking to sell them to a friend but would like to know if the front wheel has a compatible 15mm to 9mm plug similar to what Mavic sells for there conversions? .

    I also have a set of S-XC2's that I'm looking to sell and have someone that want's to know about conversion from 15QR to 9mm. Anyone know the answer to if this is possible??

    Also, who makes these hubs for Giant?
  • 03-06-2011
    scyule
    P-XC 2.....weight.

    Front wheel with rim strip ( without 15mm thru axle).953 grams
    15mm thru axle 71 grams
    Rear wheel with rim strip 1215 grams
    Rear quick release 63 grams


    Of course these weight are WITHOUT tires/cassette/brake disc/
    Also worth noting, the stock ASPEN tires are nice and light but are mounted with 180 gram tubes.
  • 03-08-2011
    willevans
    Quote:

    Originally Posted by scyule
    P-XC 2.....weight.

    Front wheel with rim strip ( without 15mm thru axle).953 grams
    15mm thru axle 71 grams
    Rear wheel with rim strip 1215 grams
    Rear quick release 63 grams


    Of course these weight are WITHOUT tires/cassette/brake disc/
    Also worth noting, the stock ASPEN tires are nice and light but are mounted with 180 gram tubes.

    I got an XTC 29er 1 over the weekend. I weighed the wheels in stock, unused, off the showroom floor "ready to ride" condition.

    P-XC 2 front wheel with tire, tube, 180mm rotor. Without thru axle. 1850 grams
    P-XC 2 rear wheel with tire, tube, 160mm rotor, cassette. Without skewer. 2466 grams.

    I haven't found a weight for the rear cassette, but it's a 11-36T unit, so I think it makes up the biggest difference between the front and rear weights (assuming rear hub is a normal amount heavier than the front hub). Depending on how the shake-down rides go, I might go to a lighter and more conventional 11-34 or 11-32 cassette.

    I think the wheels are the biggest difference between the 2010 and 2011 XTC 29er, since the 2011 bike feels like a rocket. I didn't ride the 2010, but some said it felt sluggish until the replace the wheels. I'm actually going to hang on to these P-XC2 wheels and see how they hold up.
  • 03-08-2011
    scyule
    Quote:

    Originally Posted by willevans
    I got an XTC 29er 1 over the weekend. I weighed the wheels in stock, unused, off the showroom floor "ready to ride" condition.

    P-XC 2 front wheel with tire, tube, 180mm rotor. Without thru axle. 1850 grams
    P-XC 2 rear wheel with tire, tube, 160mm rotor, cassette. Without skewer. 2466 grams.

    I haven't found a weight for the rear cassette, but it's a 11-36T unit, so I think it makes up the biggest difference between the front and rear weights (assuming rear hub is a normal amount heavier than the front hub). Depending on how the shake-down rides go, I might go to a lighter and more conventional 11-34 or 11-32 cassette.

    I think the wheels are the biggest difference between the 2010 and 2011 XTC 29er, since the 2011 bike feels like a rocket. I didn't ride the 2010, but some said it felt sluggish until the replace the wheels. I'm actually going to hang on to these P-XC2 wheels and see how they hold up.


    OK, I think we are just looking at this from different points of veiw... My curiousity with the weight of the wheels without cassette and discs ect, was so that I could compare the weight to the published weights of other options. I ended up swapping out the standard QR hub on my AMERICAN CLASSIC wheels for a 15mm through axle hub so I could trim around 700 grams of rotating weight as well as replacing the tubes with Maxxis Flyweight for another 180 gram saving.
  • 03-08-2011
    willevans
    I was just posting to this thread for people curious about the stock specs of the wheelset.

    I'm curious as to how much can be saved by going with a lighter front and rear rotor and a ghetto tubeless conversion.
  • 03-08-2011
    willevans
    Hey Dictatorsaurus,

    Where did you get the valves for your Gorilla Tape Getto Tubeless setup?
  • 03-08-2011
    Dictatorsaurus
    Quote:

    Originally Posted by willevans
    Hey Dictatorsaurus,

    Where did you get the valves for your Gorilla Tape Getto Tubeless setup?

    Stans makes different valves for different setups. I got their "standard" valves for regular rims. They also make valves for UST specific rims.
  • 03-09-2011
    tegski
    Has anyone tried to get at the bearings in the front 15mm Giant Hub from the PXC2?
    Mine were making some noises on Sat and I am not sure how to take off the caps around the 15mm axle. There are flats on them, but they do not seem to undo easily - I was not going to lean on the spanner without being sure what would happen nextůany advice gratefully received.
  • 03-10-2011
    scyule
    Quote:

    Originally Posted by willevans
    I haven't found a weight for the rear cassette, but it's a 11-36T unit, so I think it makes up the biggest difference between the front and rear weights (assuming rear hub is a normal amount heavier than the front hub). Depending on how the shake-down rides go, I might go to a lighter and more conventional 11-34 or 11-32 cassette.
    .


    Keep in mind that your new XTC comes with a TEN SPEED cassette, If you are going to change it for something lighter, you can't grab a 9 speed from the garage and pop it on, it won't shift
  • 03-10-2011
    willevans
    Quote:

    Originally Posted by scyule
    Keep in mind that your new XTC comes with a TEN SPEED cassette, If you are going to change it for something lighter, you can't grab a 9 speed from the garage and pop it on, it won't shift

    In case you aren't trolling, the whole reason why I bought the 2011 over the 2010 was the improved wheels and 10-speed drivetrain. I meant to imply earlier that I'd just sell the 11-36 and put that money towards a 10spd cassette with an 11-32 spread.

    For future notes: someone who uses a gram scale to weigh bike components typically (but not always) understands the compatibility issues between different drivetrains.
  • 03-17-2011
    TX_Shifter
    my bad, double post
  • 03-19-2011
    Rhys05
    Quote:

    Originally Posted by Duke of Earl
    My two cents:

    P-XC2 profile inner bead width is 19mm with a sleeve joint. The rim weights are: 440g (26") and 490g (29") give or take 10g. 24mm tall profile allows for a slightly shorter spoke which helps manage the overall wheel weight PLUS increase the stiffness slightly.

    S-XC2 profile inner bead width is also 19mm with a pinned joint. The rim weights are: 460g (26") and 520g (29"), also give or take 10g. A slightly shorter profile is not nearly as radially stiff which does allow for slightly greater vertical compliance.

    Hope it helps.

    B

    Interesting, so the rim weight on the P-XC2 is actually very close to the Stan's Arch rim (470g) and about 100g more than the Crest. That is good information to have! Thanks!
  • 03-19-2011
    gvs_nz
    My P-xc2 off AX1 are 913/ 1045 total at 1958g. Air up possibly even tighter than crests with a plenty of popping noises. I run with just stans yellow tape and sealant OK[ I always run a couple of psi higher without rim strips though]
    I like them especially the quiet DT350 hub on the rear compared to my hope hubs.Look like DT competition 2.0mm/ 1.8mm spokes. Really don't need to upgrade something like a flow wheelset as these are sensible weight and stiffness.
  • 03-20-2011
    ingsma
    Quote:

    Originally Posted by gvs_nz
    My P-xc2 off AX1 are 913/ 1045 total at 1958g.

    What makes up your measured weight (Wheel, hub, cluster, etc.)? It doesn't sound too bad at all.
  • 03-20-2011
    gvs_nz
    The usual, bare wheel with OEM rim tape, no skewer.
  • 04-15-2011
    LeonOfBristol
    Quote:

    Originally Posted by gvs_nz
    My P-xc2 off AX1 are 913/ 1045 total at 1958g. Air up possibly even tighter than crests with a plenty of popping noises. I run with just stans yellow tape and sealant OK[ I always run a couple of psi higher without rim strips though]
    I like them especially the quiet DT350 hub on the rear compared to my hope hubs.Look like DT competition 2.0mm/ 1.8mm spokes. Really don't need to upgrade something like a flow wheelset as these are sensible weight and stiffness.

    I'm going to collect an Anthem X2 tomorrow, and I was looking to drop a bit of weight. I thought the wheels might be a good place to start, but I think these won't be so easy to sell on, and looking at those figures, I won't even save so much weight.

    perhaps I should just rebuild the wheels with revs and alloy nipples and be done with it.
  • 04-15-2011
    gvs_nz
    X2 wheels are different to X1. X1 use DT350 rear hub, DT competition 2.0/1.8 spokes and alloy nipples.X2 wheels would be about 200g heavier X1. You could drop 140g with revs and alloy nipples. If you also switch to a XT M775 CL rear hub you would come similar to the X1 wheels.
  • 04-17-2011
    LeonOfBristol
    Quote:

    Originally Posted by gvs_nz
    X2 wheels are different to X1. X1 use DT350 rear hub, DT competition 2.0/1.8 spokes and alloy nipples.X2 wheels would be about 200g heavier X1. You could drop 140g with revs and alloy nipples. If you also switch to a XT M775 CL rear hub you would come similar to the X1 wheels.

    The wheels on my X2 have Sapim Race spokes, which are also double-butted. Can't imagine there's a lot of difference in weight.

    Actually, having finally ridden this bike, the thing I like least about the wheels is the rear hub engagement, which feels very slow compared to my other wheels (Hope Pro2, DT 240s & a King). I'm not sure I can live with it. Weight seemed fine though. Not super light, but definitely not heavy either. I haven't weighed them, since I don't have any scales, but I don't feel they are really holding me back.

    Leon
  • 05-09-2011
    willevans
    I converted my rear wheel with the stock Maxxis Aspen on it to ghetto tubeless and it's working really well.
  • 05-10-2011
    seewhatididther
    I guess I didn't need the whole kit with the rim strips and everything! Can you guys who've gone tubeless using tape and valves go into more detail for a beginner? Did you remove the tape giant had in there before you put down your tape? The tape that came with my stans plus 4 kit does not seem wide enough for my Pxc 29er wheels...
  • 05-10-2011
    willevans
    My first attempt was with Gorilla Tape and a Stan's valve. I couldn't pinpoint the leak source, but it wouldn't hold pressure overnight. After three rides where the tire would effectively be flat after 10 miles I had to replace with a tube. Now, with the ghetto tubeless method, the tire holds air as if there was a tube in it and I'm comfortable running at 5 psig less than before (with tubes).
  • 05-11-2011
    Phaceplant
    Tried the G Tape method and couldnt get tire to air.
    Tried innertube method seems to be working better, but I used some sealant from the shop I work at, and it must be old or garbage sealer, (not name familiar). Still seeping out around bead. Trying new sealant, I live in the boonies so slime is the most available.
    Got to ride tubeless on the way home, I am totally blown away by the diff.
    I wont give up till I get it right. Its worth it.
  • 05-11-2011
    Dictatorsaurus
    Quote:

    Originally Posted by Phaceplant
    Tried the G Tape method and couldnt get tire to air.
    Tried innertube method seems to be working better, but I used some sealant from the shop I work at, and it must be old or garbage sealer, (not name familiar). Still seeping out around bead. Trying new sealant, I live in the boonies so slime is the most available.
    Got to ride tubeless on the way home, I am totally blown away by the diff.
    I wont give up till I get it right. Its worth it.

    How many layers of Gorilla tape?

    I did two layers. Crossmark and Ardent seated fine with floor pump.
  • 05-11-2011
    JimmyNeutron10101
    Anyone tried enlarging the valve hole from a Presta to Schrader on their S-XC2? Does it weaken the rim? Anything I need to watch out for before I start enlarging the hole? I want to switch over to Schrader valve to keep only one type of tubes in my backpack for all 3 bikes that I take out for a ride.

    Thanks!
  • 05-11-2011
    SkaredShtles
    Do yourself a HUGE favor and buy a few of those little adapters that fit in the rim and convert your Schrader rims to Presta.
  • 05-11-2011
    JimmyNeutron10101
    I want to install some slime into the tube and I know it can be done w/ Presta valve, but requires more work. Maybe I'll just buy the Presta tubes that comes w/ Slime already.
  • 05-11-2011
    Phaceplant
    Quote:

    Originally Posted by Dictatorsaurus
    How many layers of Gorilla tape?

    I did two layers. Crossmark and Ardent seated fine with floor pump.


    I watched a Y/T video, the guy used one layer.
    So I used one layer.
    How wide did you make it?
    Does the tape come up the inside wall of the rim, like the innertube method does?
  • 05-12-2011
    gvs_nz
    Some tires are tighter than others. Crossmarks are very loose so probably need two layers.
  • 05-12-2011
    Dictatorsaurus
    Quote:

    Originally Posted by Phaceplant
    I watched a Y/T video, the guy used one layer.
    So I used one layer.
    How wide did you make it?
    Does the tape come up the inside wall of the rim, like the innertube method does?

    Different rims and different tires work well...differently :)

    You can get the 1" wide Gorilla tape and put two layers. Try not to ride up on the side walls too much so you can use a butterknife to sort of wedge the tape in the corner. It's ok if the tape rides on the side wall a little.
  • 05-12-2011
    seewhatididther
    do you guys take out the green tape that came in the wheels first?
  • 05-12-2011
    Dictatorsaurus
    Quote:

    Originally Posted by seewhatididther
    do you guys take out the green tape that came in the wheels first?

    You mean the rim tape. Yes. Take it out.
  • 05-23-2011
    alefak
    has anyone been successful with ghetto tubeless on SXC2's? i couldnt tell which of the posts above were PXC vs SXC... Thanks!
  • 05-23-2011
    mudmav
    SOME INFO AND UPDATES THAT I POSTED ON ROTORBURN WHICH MIGHT HELP


    For anyone that is interested i have converted by pxc2 rims from my 2011 xtc 29er1 to tubeless tonight using the parts listed below from bontrager (including part numbers),

    406892 Black 29er Rhythm Tubeless Rim Strip-Symmetric
    250324 Tubeless Rim Valve

    1. Basically the procedure was really easy strip down my stock wheels and remove the rim tape.

    2. Fit the rim strip starting at the valve hole. put the valve in before you start to fit it but don't tighten it up yet.

    3. Carefully work the rim strip into the centre of the rim channel and then go around both beads to make sure it is pushed right down into the bead.

    4. Tighten up tubeless valve core

    5. Fit tires, obviously with a scoop or two of stans, work the bead into place using nothing but your bare hands so you don't damage the rim strip with tire levers or the like.

    6. I then pumped my new tubeless pxc2 rims and tires up with my track pump (no compressor required), so far they are holding air perfectly.


    A couple of things to note.


    Rim strip fits absolutely perfectly like it was made for the rims.

    Tire beads snap into bead with a load twang (inspires confidence)

    I used maxxis no ust tires and they sealed up easily following the stans shake and rotate method.


    thats all guys ill give an update in a week after a few rides.

    any questions dont hesitate to pm me


    UPDATE 1

    they held at 60 psi overnight with no stans leaking out anywhere so it looks like this was a success ill let them down to high 20's low 30's and take them for a ride tomorrow.


    For the record tires are


    Maxxis ardent 29*2.4 front exo sidewall
    Maxxis ardent 29*2.25 lust rear

    i rode these tires with tubes for a few weeks before going tubeless and they were awwesome

    UPDATE 2

    Just a quick update over 200km in the last 2 weeks on the ardents tubless with the bontrager strips as low as 22psi on the front 2.4 and 26 psi on the rear 2.25, no burping no flats no problems at all, just tons and tons of grip. If your thinking about going tubless stop thinking and start doing it. No negatives that i can think of

    UPDATE 3

    I have done about 400kms on this setup on a mixture of wet single track (muddy), hard packed groomed trails and loamy single track, plus some rough rail trail and also some commuting on sealed pavement.


    comments

    Traction and lots of it
    No problems running pressures down to 22psi so far
    no burping
    no loss of pressure
    noticable difference in rolling resistance since ditching the tubes ( i was using heavy bontrager 2.3-2.5 tubes)
    Lighter wheelset by about 250 grams.


    All in all an awesome conversion that i would highly recommend
  • 05-23-2011
    formulaone33
    Quote:

    Originally Posted by alefak
    has anyone been successful with ghetto tubeless on SXC2's? i couldnt tell which of the posts above were PXC vs SXC... Thanks!

    Yup it works and seals better than anything else. I used normal 24x1.95 Presta q-tubes with removeable valve cores for putting in more stans. They work great.

    I took the stock rim tape out and replaced it with two rev's of nylon strapping tape.
  • 05-29-2011
    Gofannon
    What about older P29 rims? Do they fall into the same category or are they completely different rims?
  • 06-08-2011
    R-Mills
    Help!
    My PXC rims have a green rim strip. Do I remove that, clean it up and What Stan's kit/tape should I buy. I gotta try tubeless!!!!
  • 06-08-2011
    Andy FitzGibbon
    I set up my S-XC2's and non--UST Ignitors with one layer of Stan's tape and Stan's valves. Works fine. The P-XC2's are eyeletted (can't remember if that was mentioned) and the rim profile is better for tubeless (wider bead surfaces).
  • 06-08-2011
    Phaceplant
    Quote:

    Originally Posted by R-Mills View Post
    Help!
    My PXC rims have a green rim strip. Do I remove that, clean it up and What Stan's kit/tape should I buy. I gotta try tubeless!!!!

    Get rid of the green strip you wont need it. I spoke to Stans a couple weeks ago, and they still didnt have a kit for our wheels. I was successful using the innertube ghetto method, and so far, so good. I bought the ingredients, and made up a bunch. Works just like they say. Use the recepie listed here:
    http://forums.mtbr.com/showthread.ph...=tubeless+brew
    Bike is lighter better traction, all good... so far.
  • 06-12-2011
    hillsprinter
    I have the s-xc2 wheel set on my xtc 29er. I was wondering if it is possible to change the front hub from 15mm axle to a 9mm with just changing the end caps? thanks!!
  • 06-14-2011
    dolande
    Quote:

    Originally Posted by Andy FitzGibbon View Post
    I set up my S-XC2's and non--UST Ignitors with one layer of Stan's tape and Stan's valves. Works fine. The P-XC2's are eyeletted (can't remember if that was mentioned) and the rim profile is better for tubeless (wider bead surfaces).

    Did you use the 21mm or 25mm tape? Also what valve?


    Thanks
  • 06-14-2011
    gvs_nz
    Quote:

    Originally Posted by hillsprinter View Post
    I have the s-xc2 wheel set on my xtc 29er. I was wondering if it is possible to change the front hub from 15mm axle to a 9mm with just changing the end caps? thanks!!

    Mavic do some 15mm adapters with a very slim profile which just slip into the 15mm bore of the hub. I think Price point sell them.
  • 06-14-2011
    Jubas
    Quote:

    Originally Posted by mudmav View Post

    ...snip

    All in all an awesome conversion that i would highly recommend

    I followed mudmav's instructions and took some pictures at the same time.. I was a complete noob to tubeless, so found it a fun experience!
  • 06-15-2011
    Dictatorsaurus
    Quote:

    Originally Posted by gvs_nz View Post
    Mavic do some 15mm adapters with a very slim profile which just slip into the 15mm bore of the hub. I think Price point sell them.

    this one?

    http://www.pricepoint.com/detail/207...p=295%20MAVQ50

    I wonder if it would work on the giant hub.
  • 06-15-2011
    dolande
    Quote:

    Originally Posted by Jubas View Post
    I followed mudmav's instructions and took some pictures at the same time.. I was a complete noob to tubeless, so found it a fun experience!

    Wow just wow
    That's a great post it makes me want to get those parts right now. I have ardent 2.25 coming, I may try that on those.
    Thanks again for posting the weights:thumbsup:
  • 06-16-2011
    ozlongboarder
    Quote:

    Originally Posted by Jubas View Post
    I followed mudmav's instructions and took some pictures at the same time.. I was a complete noob to tubeless, so found it a fun experience!

    Nice work! Where did you get the rim strips from?

    Agree on the shocking weather, hopefully it dries out a little so we can ride this weekend.
  • 06-16-2011
    Jubas
    I ended up getting them from Clarence St Cyclery in Sydney. You can't buy bontrager parts online in Australia as far as i'm aware :( The prices for the valves and strips $9 per valve, and $15 per strip (Aussie dollars that is.. about 1.06 AUD to the American peso ;) )
  • 06-16-2011
    jn35646
    Has anyone tried using the Bontrager parts with the S-XC rims/stock Maxxis Crossmarks that come on the AX29er3? If so please chime in, I would like to convert mine, mostly to avoid thorn punctures but improved grip doesn't hurt either.

    406892 Black 29er Rhythm Tubeless Rim Strip-Symmetric
    250324 Tubeless Rim Valve
  • 06-16-2011
    ozlongboarder
    Quote:

    Originally Posted by Jubas View Post
    I ended up getting them from Clarence St Cyclery in Sydney. You can't buy bontrager parts online in Australia as far as i'm aware :( The prices for the valves and strips $9 per valve, and $15 per strip (Aussie dollars that is.. about 1.06 AUD to the American peso ;) )

    Thanks mate, did they have them in stock or did you have to order them in? I will get my wife to pick some up next time she is in the city for a meeting.
  • 06-16-2011
    tegski
    Have been running for ages - works fine. Aired up with a compressor first go for three tyres (original 2 and a replacement) Just about to go back to the last fave tyre - Aspen - as the crossmarks have worn out.
  • 06-16-2011
    Jubas
    Quote:

    Originally Posted by ozlongboarder View Post
    Thanks mate, did they have them in stock or did you have to order them in? I will get my wife to pick some up next time she is in the city for a meeting.

    Yep - in stock at the workshop (the bottom level). Probably not a bad idea to give them a call beforehand though.. it would be easy for them to check with the product numbers i imagine!
  • 06-16-2011
    Magilla_Guerrilla
    Does anyone know of a shop in Brisbane that also stocks the rim strips?
  • 06-17-2011
    Jubas
    Bontrager are distributed through Trek, so just track down a Trek store..
  • 06-18-2011
    Jaymorr
    The Bontrager Rythm strips are too wide for the SX-2 rim, so I went with Stan's yellow tape & valves. The rim channel must be slightly shallower. J
  • 06-18-2011
    BacDoc
    S-XC Panaracer Rampage ghetto conversion
    Just finished the ghetto gorilla tape conversion of my Anthem 29er S-XC wheelset.:) Rampage 2.35 folding tire and Stan's sealant no additives, followed the jimcarrie youtube video and inflated using a compressor. With these tires there is no way you can use a floor pump and even with compressor lots of leakage until the stuff gets shaken around and fills gaps. Rode around the block and set for a couple of hours and still holding. Checked with soapy water and no leaks:thumbsup: so far!

    Tip - using the tape end stuck on table, stretch it good as you wrap the wheel for clean bond. The tighter the tape the better the bond with no wrinkles Used 2 cups on first wheel but with all the leakage I used 3 on the second for good measure and later puncture protection. could not hear any sealant on shaking after everything sealed with 2 cups. These tires oozed a lot before the bead sealed.
    Hopefully, a ride off road this evening or tomorrow will be the test.:thumbsup: I am stoked!
  • 06-20-2011
    BacDoc
    Update on the S-XC Rampage Gorilla tape ghetto conversion Anthem X 29 -

    Been 2 days and 2 short pavement rides and 1 hr single track, no jumps or big drops but using most of my travel and running mid 20's psi. Still holding as of today! First day some strange weeping of black watery drips along the bead but after wiping did not reappear.

    One wrap of G tape and an old valve from old tube. Stan's only about 2 - 21/2 cups per tire.
  • 06-20-2011
    Andy FitzGibbon
    Quote:

    Originally Posted by dolande View Post
    Did you use the 21mm or 25mm tape? Also what valve?


    Thanks

    Can't remember what tape for sure, but I think it was the narrower stuff. Used Stans valves.
  • 06-21-2011
    Phaceplant
    Quote:

    Originally Posted by scyule View Post
    Keep in mind that your new XTC comes with a TEN SPEED cassette, If you are going to change it for something lighter, you can't grab a 9 speed from the garage and pop it on, it won't shift

    I have a 2011 XTC 2 and its a NINE speed.
  • 06-21-2011
    dolande
    Quote:

    Originally Posted by Andy FitzGibbon View Post
    Can't remember what tape for sure, but I think it was the narrower stuff. Used Stans valves.

    Thanks:thumbsup:
  • 06-24-2011
    willevans
    Ditch the Aspens if you ride near rocks
    I have been running ghetto tubeless on my 2011 XTC 29er 1 with the stock Maxxis Aspen tires. Everything on the bike is bone stock except for the tubeless conversion. 2 miles into my forth race I split the rear tire's sidewall so bad it wouldn't stay on the rim even after I put a tube in there. So sad as it was my home course and the only race to be held there this year.

    Ghetto tubeless works just fine on the stock rims, but go with a beefier tire.
  • 06-24-2011
    laynlow40
    FYI guys, Stan's has now tested the S-XC and deemed it compatible with the flow rim strip. They have also listed this on their site. The guy I spoke with at Stan's told me to just leave the factory rim strip in the tire and install the flow rim strip over it. No need to apply tape.

    I have them on order and will give it a go next weekend.
  • 06-24-2011
    ha-evolution
    Had my local shop do the Stan's conversion to my P-XC2's and it works perfectly. Tubeless is so much the win.
  • 06-25-2011
    jianxing
    new to tubeless..

    been looking at ZTR Crest wheelset and i was wondering how heavy are giant's Hub and how do they perform as compared to Hope or DT swiss 240 hubs..

    My bike is a 2011 XTC 2 29er.. so its the S-XC wheel.

    I wana reduce weight but should i change the whole set or can i reuse the hubs etc? i like the red hubs =)
  • 06-26-2011
    Andy FitzGibbon
    Quote:

    Originally Posted by jianxing View Post
    new to tubeless..

    been looking at ZTR Crest wheelset and i was wondering how heavy are giant's Hub and how do they perform as compared to Hope or DT swiss 240 hubs..

    My bike is a 2011 XTC 2 29er.. so its the S-XC wheel.

    I wana reduce weight but should i change the whole set or can i reuse the hubs etc? i like the red hubs =)

    I don't know the weight of the hubs alone, but the wheels are pretty heavy: 950 grams for the front and 1200 grams for the rear. That's without cassette, skewers, or rotors. I saved almost a pound by going to Stans 355 rims and WTB LaserDisc hubs.
  • 07-03-2011
    jeffj
    Quote:

    Originally Posted by jianxing View Post
    new to tubeless..

    been looking at ZTR Crest wheelset and i was wondering how heavy are giant's Hub and how do they perform as compared to Hope or DT swiss 240 hubs..

    My bike is a 2011 XTC 2 29er.. so its the S-XC wheel.

    I wana reduce weight but should i change the whole set or can i reuse the hubs etc? i like the red hubs =)

    As long as you're not heavy and very strong, I would not be too concerned about performance of the stock hubs. They should be fine. If you are very strong and heavy, I would take the opportunity to upgrade the hubs. I have trouble with Shimano freehubs for this reason.

    I have been riding DT Swiss 240s hubs for the past year with no troubles. Plenty strong and very easily serviced with NO tools needed to do so. Just push the freehub body off (leave the cassette on) with your fingers. Remove the two piece star ratchet and the two large coil springs, clean, lube and reassemble. Simplest thing I have ever seen.
  • 07-03-2011
    jianxing
    DT 240s are sweet but i prefer a red colour hub..

    Looking at chris king vs hope2 pro evo.
    Any thoughts? is it worth it or are there any better suggestions?
  • 07-11-2011
    brianpalser
    My rear hub on my S-XC is giving up the ghost. The bike 2 months old and has developed a grinding sound when freewheeling, a click in the pedal stroke, and the cassette wobbles very slightly. I am 205 lbs. Do you think Giant will warranty it?
  • 07-11-2011
    SkaredShtles
    Quote:

    Originally Posted by brianpalser View Post
    My rear hub on my S-XC is giving up the ghost. The bike 2 months old and has developed a grinding sound when freewheeling, a click in the pedal stroke, and the cassette wobbles very slightly. I am 205 lbs. Do you think Giant will warranty it?

    Two months? Absolutely.
  • 07-12-2011
    Phaceplant
    Quote:

    Originally Posted by JimmyNeutron10101 View Post
    I want to install some slime into the tube and I know it can be done w/ Presta valve, but requires more work. Maybe I'll just buy the Presta tubes that comes w/ Slime already.

    Some presta tubes have removeable cores. Sunlines' do.
    You have to look REAL close at the valve end of the presta valve. There are little flats for a small wrench, (I use crescent).
  • 07-12-2011
    sonypete
    Quote:

    Originally Posted by Andy FitzGibbon View Post
    Can't remember what tape for sure, but I think it was the narrower stuff. Used Stans valves.

    Andy, anyway you can just check your email for the invoice from where you ordered it? $15 ain't much for rim tape and shipping but I prefer not to do this twice :p
  • 07-13-2011
    jeffj
    Quote:

    Originally Posted by brianpalser View Post
    My rear hub on my S-XC is giving up the ghost. The bike 2 months old and has developed a grinding sound when freewheeling, a click in the pedal stroke, and the cassette wobbles very slightly. I am 205 lbs. Do you think Giant will warranty it?

    I would think so. Just the same, I would start thinking about a more durable rear hub.
  • 07-15-2011
    brianpalser
    With the help of a friend I pulled apart the hub and greased up the bearings. Put it back together and no issues whatsoever. On one hand I am very happy to have no problems, but on the other hand I was hoping to have a reason to buy a new set of Stan's arches, and a lighter cassette. The hubs on the s-xc's are not cartridge bearings.
  • 08-02-2011
    danK
    Just to put my semi-weight weenie mind to rest, it's the hubs that are heavy, right? Didn't one post in this long thread say the rims on the p-xc2 are 440 grams? That's tolerable. And the spokes are db and a bit shorter due to rim depth.

    Weight at the center I can tolerate. I'm all for 1600gram wheelsets for my xc-riding 170 pound non-jumping body but will live with a combined 450 extra grams if it's the hubs.

    Quote:

    Originally Posted by Andy FitzGibbon View Post
    I don't know the weight of the hubs alone, but the wheels are pretty heavy: 950 grams for the front and 1200 grams for the rear. That's without cassette, skewers, or rotors. I saved almost a pound by going to Stans 355 rims and WTB LaserDisc hubs.

  • 08-09-2011
    ride.the.mtn
    The rear freewheel on my P-XC2 just started making a grinding/knocking noise yesterday...
    I took it apart and regreased, but the sound is still there.

    Has anyone encountered this issue and solved it in another way than Brianpalser has?

    If I can I want to avoid sending it away or leaving it in a shop for an extended period of time.
  • 08-10-2011
    kamper11
    I was removing the crossmarks from my P-XC's this weekend (new 29erx1) - and while it didn't hit me at the time - i realized the my set has a "yellow" rim tape and not the green that has been discussed and even shown - it may be nothing - but was hypothesizing that maybe its the Stans yellow tape that would seal these for tubeless?

    I'd like to give it a shot - and see if they hold - but dont want to waste any brew if I can find out ahead of time - whether or not my hypothesis may be correct...

    any thoughts? or a simple test without going through the whole procedure to mount/test?

    Thanks
  • 08-10-2011
    BacDoc
    If that tape looks like its glued to the rim(doesn't move) and covers the spoke holes you should be ok! Try it with a scoop and a half or two of Stans and use a compressor to air up.:thumbsup:

    Shake and shake it up good - let us know how it works!
  • 08-11-2011
    CasinoKiD
    For the guys that used Stan's yellow tape...21mm or 25mm tape?
  • 08-11-2011
    krf350lv
    Stans Tape
    I used 25mm.
  • 08-11-2011
    danK
    I must eat crow. Contrary to what I wrote the other day, tonight the oem Anthem X1 wheels went ghetto tubeless on the front with a WTB Mutano Raptor 2.4 Race. Maybe it was better compressor technique or, heck, I dunno, but my DIY card was renewed in about 5 minutes tonight.

    Tomorrow I'll see if the newfound "technique" will work on that lightweight flimsy oem Crossmark 2.1; others have done it so fingers crossed.
  • 08-16-2011
    OxygenDeficit
    Great tips! Can't wait to lower the weight a bit on my XTC 1.