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  1. #201
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    hey David,
    I called my lbs and they said they can get me the ztr rims/x9hub/dtswiss spokes for $350 (including the $50 they give me for my sxc2 wheels)
    I think I'll go ahead and get them. I considered the crest with the revolution spokes but i think it would be asking for trouble as far as being to flimsy... so I will most likely get the arch ex with the dtswiss comp spokes.. I presume this will still be a nice improvement over the stock tubed sxc2 wheels..
    Quote Originally Posted by davidcarson48 View Post
    XT or X9 hubs should be under $400 for sure. The ZTR hubs on Stan's site are lighter and more expensive.

  2. #202
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    That sounds like a nice deal. DT Swiss makes a bunch of spokes. I think the best choice would be Competition spokes. Strong, reasonably light, and readily available.

  3. #203
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    Giant S-XC29 2 tubeless conversion not going well

    As anyone ran into problems with the Giant S-XC29 2 rims not converting tubeless due to the joint where the rim comes together leaking? I'm having my LBS setup my bike with tubeless tires and one of the rims continues to leak from what appears to be the "pinned" joint that connects the rims together. I originally had them install Continental Mountain King's II but they couldn't get the front tire to seat. They thought it was the tire so they tried a set of Specailized tires which at first seemed to work, but then the same rim started leaking again at the rim joint. Is this something the LBS is doing wrong or do I have a bad S-XC29 2 rim that is never going to seal up well enough to convert tubeless because of the rim joint?

  4. #204
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    Perhaps use a rim strip?

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  5. #205
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    Quote Originally Posted by Dusty61 View Post
    As anyone ran into problems with the Giant S-XC29 2 rims not converting tubeless due to the joint where the rim comes together leaking? I'm having my LBS setup my bike with tubeless tires and one of the rims continues to leak from what appears to be the "pinned" joint that connects the rims together. I originally had them install Continental Mountain King's II but they couldn't get the front tire to seat. They thought it was the tire so they tried a set of Specailized tires which at first seemed to work, but then the same rim started leaking again at the rim joint. Is this something the LBS is doing wrong or do I have a bad S-XC29 2 rim that is never going to seal up well enough to convert tubeless because of the rim joint?
    Wow, sorry to hear that. I just got a new 2013 "early release" AnthemX Advanced 29er 2 that came with the exact wheelset w/Schwalbe Racing Ralph 2.25 and my lbs converted them over tubeless with stans and I've had no problems so far. Converting a non-tubeless wheelset to tubeless is not 100% guaranteed so you have to accept the results pretty much. I also have a 2011 Specialized FSR 26 that was converted where the front tire has to be pumped up about every 3 days (loses about 5lbs) so I live with that. Currently looking at a set of I9 ZTR ArchEX (which are Stans and designed tubeless).... price of those has caused me to pause a bit though.
    Last edited by Amazed; 01-03-2013 at 04:58 AM.

  6. #206
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    my local shop would not even touch my sxc2 wheels as far as tubeless goes. they said they were not intended for tubeless.. ofcourse we know that they do work in most cases but I suppose they dont want to have to deal with issues like this or slow leaks etc..
    best of luck

  7. #207
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    P-XC2 tubeless question

    For those of you who have successfully converted the P-XC2 wheels tubeless, did you drill out the inner channel hole to 3/8" like the Stan's video shows? It's the "Tubeless Kit" video in this link: Help Center

    I don't really understand the importance of this step, unless the valve would not fit through the hole. Fwiw, I'll be using the gorilla tape method.
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  8. #208
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    Quote Originally Posted by MTBeing View Post
    For those of you who have successfully converted the P-XC2 wheels tubeless, did you drill out the inner channel hole to 3/8" like the Stan's video shows? It's the "Tubeless Kit" video in this link: Help Center

    I don't really understand the importance of this step, unless the valve would not fit through the hole. Fwiw, I'll be using the gorilla tape method.
    I have no idea why they have that step on the video. I remember seeing it also, and was thinking, no way I am taking a drill to my rims. You DO NOT need to drill anything! Put the drill away Good luck and enjoy your tubeless setup! The only thing I can think of is that they were doing that to improve airflow for that initial burst of air from the compressor, but that would not be a bottleneck compared to that tiny opening for the presta valve. Anyway, I did no drilling and have no problems.

    Quote Originally Posted by Bigfoots View Post
    my local shop would not even touch my sxc2 wheels as far as tubeless goes. they said they were not intended for tubeless.. ofcourse we know that they do work in most cases but I suppose they dont want to have to deal with issues like this or slow leaks etc..
    best of luck
    FWIW: I have been running my SXC-2 rims for quite a while and I have had ZERO issues. I have learned to make sure to not skip the soapy water step, and I have to use my air compressor every time to get them inflated (only when I break the bead to add more stans/remove the bugger/change or rotate tires). In my opionion these wheels were made to be run tubeless

  9. #209
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    Both the P-XC and S-XC wheels have been really bomber. Of the few hundred we've sold we've only seen 1 or 2 dented rims. These are tough wheels.

    Heavy though and tubeless conversion as you read here are a bit hit or miss.

    Here is what we were recommended to use for conversion--we don't do it ourselves in the shop, but this is what we tell folks:

    For Giant's P-XC2 29er wheelset: 2 layers Stans' of 21mm rim tape and 1 Stan's Flow rim strip plus lots of soapy water and of course plenty of their sealant. This was specifically for the OEM Maxxis Crossmark that comes on these bikes, which has a really loose fit on these rims.

    The new Schwalbe tires that will be coming on these bikes just required 1 layer of tape (could use Stan's tape or just the heavy duty packing tape with strings in it) plus the Flow rim strip and soapy water if necessary.
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  10. #210
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    @ mtbdennis: Thanks for the affirmation. Drilling into new wheels would freak me out a bit and, yes, the bottleneck is surely the valve itself.

    @kaj: My local shop suggests I try taping the p-XC2 with Gorilla Tape using two layers (no rim strip) and just a valve. Have you had success doing this at all?
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  11. #211
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    Quote Originally Posted by MTBeing View Post
    @ My local shop suggests I try taping the p-XC2 with Gorilla Tape using two layers (no rim strip) and just a valve. Have you had success doing this at all?
    That is what I did, but only one layer of the 1 inch tape. Just used the Stan's valves, not the rim strip. Working great, going on around a year now, still holding up fine.

  12. #212
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    Quote Originally Posted by mtbdennis View Post
    That is what I did, but only one layer of the 1 inch tape. Just used the Stan's valves, not the rim strip. Working great, going on around a year now, still holding up fine.
    Good to know, thanks. I'll probably give it a go with one layer and see how it works out.

    Edit: Used two layers as described below and I'm glad I did.
    Last edited by MTBeing; 01-12-2013 at 02:39 PM.
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  13. #213
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    P-XC2 tubeless setup detailed (1of 2)

    Just got my Trance X 29er and I'm going to make the P-XC2 wheels tubeless, of course. The first post will show the setup and a followup post will discuss the 'aftermath'. Here's some figures/weights and pictures.

    Figures/weights:

    Front wheel:
    - Green rim strip: 18g
    - 170 HS1 rotor+bolts 128g
    - Front wheel (no rotor or rim strip): 860g
    Total F wheel weight including rotor, 2 layers Gorilla tape, and a Stan's valve 1034g

    Rear wheel:
    Rotor (no cassette, rim strip), 2 layers G tape, Stan's valve 1258g

    Schwalbe NN 29, 2.25 700g even.

    Taping procedure:

    1. Remove/discard green rim strip. If I was going to use a Flow r/s for tubeless, I'd leave the stock green r/s in probably.

    2. Clean the bare rim with isopropyl alcohol. This procedure removed some of the interior sheen, and the rag turned a little gray probably taking a little paint with it. This is ok as I need good contact from the tape.

    Note: With the rim strip out I attempted to measure the rim bead hook height/sidewall or whatever it's called. Measure 0.222" - 2 layers G/T (0.038") = 0.184". I hope this residual distance provides a good bead lock for the tire.

    3. Gorilla Tape application:

    Begin 2.5 spoke holes away from the valve hole and end 2.5 holes away (going the other way). Make sure you get the tape centered really well into the drop channel to begin with. I was slightly off center on my first attempt and I had to start over after wrapping about 1/4 of a wheel. In applying the tape, I positioned myself perpendicular to the wheel, looking down into the wheel center-line. I found that this gave me the best view of the process and, more importantly, the best leverage to apply the G/T.

    I proceeded slowly and was not in any rush to apply the tape. Probably applied 4-5 inches at a time all the while PULLING VERY HARD and laying it down. Don't worry, you're not gonna rip this stuff. This stretches the tape just a little and makes it easier to get it even on the rim.

    At this point I was only concerned about getting enough tack to keep the tape from slipping back. I finished wrapping the wheel so that I had two layers all the way around, but the overlap area near the valve hole will actually have 3 for a short distance. The fine-tuning comes next.

    I used a clean rag to then run my fingers over the tape and press into the center area. This will even out the adhesion and remove any small bubbles/imperfections between the tape layers and the rim. After this was completed, I used my Park tire lever to press the tape down evenly on the bead ledge. Be careful on this step so you don't tear this area, otherwise you'll have to start over. The Park t/l has a radius on the pry end which minimizes the chance for tearing the tape.

    The final step was to throw the tube back in and air it up to 40 psi and let the wheel sit overnight. Some of these steps might be overkill but this is the way I've done it with Stan's tape in the past and it's worked very well.

    Sealant and air-up to follow...
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails The Giant P-XC/S-XC Wheelset Thread-img_20130111_204856.jpg  

    The Giant P-XC/S-XC Wheelset Thread-img_20130111_193456.jpg  

    The Giant P-XC/S-XC Wheelset Thread-img_20130111_201116.jpg  

    The Giant P-XC/S-XC Wheelset Thread-img_20130111_200132.jpg  

    The Giant P-XC/S-XC Wheelset Thread-img_20130111_210558.jpg  

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  14. #214
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    P-XC2 tubeless setup detailed (2 of 2)

    So after deflating the tires (tubed) and removing the tubes and tires of the rims I noticed that the tape had further settled into place as evidenced by the adhesive protruding a little from the sides (pic 1). This was most likely the result of the the pressured tube/tire being on the rim overnight and something I consider to be a critical step in the whole process.

    Furthermore, after deflating the tire, I noticed that the bead did not fall away from the sidewall which is a good thing too (pic 2). The bead unseated with a little pinch pressure but not to the extent of what would be required on a Stan's rim.

    Removed the tube, installed the Stan's valve and it was time to soap the beads and re-inflate. Not sure it was the prep work, the good bead interference, or the result of a high-quality tire but the tire lost very little pressure in the 5 or so minutes I had it inflated with just soap and water (pic 3). I couldn't even do this on a Stan's Arch rim (which I own) and this gave me a ton of confidence that running these rims tubeless would not be an issue. The tire seated with the distinctive POP, POP at about 30 psi. All that was left to do was to deflate the tire and put in 3 scoops of my home-brew sealant (per tire) (pic 4).

    The tires are holding air perfectly and only required one shake revolution per wheel, since the tire holds air really well by itself. Overall, I'm really pleased with the results and the process was pretty smooth. Thanks to everyone who participated in this thread and gave advice on setting these Giant wheels up tubeless.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails The Giant P-XC/S-XC Wheelset Thread-img_20130112_104209.jpg  

    The Giant P-XC/S-XC Wheelset Thread-img_20130112_101454.jpg  

    The Giant P-XC/S-XC Wheelset Thread-img_20130112_102614.jpg  

    The Giant P-XC/S-XC Wheelset Thread-img_20130112_103340.jpg  

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  15. #215
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    Has any one tried the Bontrager rims strips with the Giant P-XCR 1 wheels? You can see the description of these wheels here P-XCR 29er 1 WheelSystem (WheelSystems) - Bike Gear | Giant Bicycles | Australia . I don't know the difference between the rims on these wheels and the P-XC 2 wheels.
    The P-XCR 1 wheels come with DT Swiss tubeless conversion strips http://www.dtswiss.com/Resources/Sup...it-User-Manual. The wheels initially leaked a lot from the join in the rim, but Stans sealant seems to have stopped this. What I am a little worried about, is that the tyres I am using (RaRa evo tlr) fall straight off the bead when you let the tyre down. You then need a compressor to get them to air up again, no hope with a hand pump. This is very different to my experience with Maxxis Ignitor and LUST Crossmarks on 26" UST rims, that lock very solidly up on the beads. Perhaps the difference is the tyres rather than the rims?
    The Bontrager 406892 rim strip is made for a rim with a 21mm internal width, but the P-XCR 1 rims have a 19mm internal width. Is the internal width of the P-XC 2 rims also 19mm?
    The Bontrager 400337 rim strip is made for a rim with a 19mm internal width, but I believe is asymmetric Bontrager: Tubeless Replacement Parts (Model #02566).

  16. #216
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    On my P-XCR 0 I had a similar DT setup provided.

    I've applied Gorilla tape, and works like a charm. Track pump to get aired, and seems reliable, I can't get it to burp even below 15PSI. And Gorilla is lighter also.

  17. #217
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    Burping issues?

    I was wondering if anyone has had any burping issues and losing a large amount of air pressure during a ride? I have always used UST specific rims which occasionally burped (I could see dried sealant by the rim after a ride) but sealed without issue during the ride. I will be converting 26" P-XCR 2 wheels to tubeless, and I usually run about 28-30 psi.

    I did not see any complaints of massive air pressure loss due to burping during a ride but I thought I would ask.

    Thanks.

  18. #218
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    Quote Originally Posted by Stevem9 View Post
    I was wondering if anyone has had any burping issues and losing a large amount of air pressure during a ride? I have always used UST specific rims which occasionally burped (I could see dried sealant by the rim after a ride) but sealed without issue during the ride. I will be converting 26" P-XCR 2 wheels to tubeless, and I usually run about 28-30 psi.

    I did not see any complaints of massive air pressure loss due to burping during a ride but I thought I would ask.

    Thanks.
    I don't have alot of hours on the conversion listed above but given that they hold air with soaped beads, I strongly doubt they'll burp

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    Good point and thanks, MTBeing.

  20. #220
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    Quote Originally Posted by dkselw View Post
    Has any one tried the Bontrager rims strips with the Giant P-XCR 1 wheels? You can see the description of these wheels here P-XCR 29er 1 WheelSystem (WheelSystems) - Bike Gear | Giant Bicycles | Australia . I don't know the difference between the rims on these wheels and the P-XC 2 wheels.
    The P-XCR 1 wheels come with DT Swiss tubeless conversion strips http://www.dtswiss.com/Resources/Sup...it-User-Manual. The wheels initially leaked a lot from the join in the rim, but Stans sealant seems to have stopped this. What I am a little worried about, is that the tyres I am using (RaRa evo tlr) fall straight off the bead when you let the tyre down. You then need a compressor to get them to air up again, no hope with a hand pump. This is very different to my experience with Maxxis Ignitor and LUST Crossmarks on 26" UST rims, that lock very solidly up on the beads. Perhaps the difference is the tyres rather than the rims?
    The Bontrager 406892 rim strip is made for a rim with a 21mm internal width, but the P-XCR 1 rims have a 19mm internal width. Is the internal width of the P-XC 2 rims also 19mm?
    The Bontrager 400337 rim strip is made for a rim with a 19mm internal width, but I believe is asymmetric Bontrager: Tubeless Replacement Parts (Model #02566).
    It is not just the RaRa evo tlr that falls off the bead. I have also now tried a UST Crossmark, and it also falls off the bead when you loose pressure. However the Crossmark is tight enough that you can inflate the tyre with a track pump, I did not need a compressor to seat the bead.
    I removed the DT Swiss rim strip, and used 3 layers of Gorilla tape instead. I can now seat the bead of both the RaRa and the Crossmark with a track pump. Both tyres still drop into the rim center channel when you let the tyre down. Perhaps its not a major problem, I have not burped the tyres yet. But it does not give me a lot of confidence.
    I would still be interested if someone has tried the Bontrager rim strips on the P-XCR 1 rims.
    Last edited by dkselw; 02-03-2013 at 05:32 PM.

  21. #221
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    Quote Originally Posted by jn35646 View Post
    Has anyone tried using the Bontrager parts with the S-XC rims/stock Maxxis Crossmarks that come on the AX29er3? If so please chime in, I would like to convert mine, mostly to avoid thorn punctures but improved grip doesn't hurt either.

    406892 Black 29er Rhythm Tubeless Rim Strip-Symmetric
    250324 Tubeless Rim Valve

    Hey Just a heads up, this set up may have worked in prior years of the PXC Wheels, however, I have a set of 2012 PXC2 Wheels and that set up did not work at all. They may have changed something, but my LBS tried to do it and no go. A Stan's kit however sealed them up tight and easy.

    Like I said a Heads up, not saying it doesn't work with the 2011 and older versions but the 2012 it does not.

    Happy Trails.

  22. #222
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    Quote Originally Posted by Goran_injo View Post
    And Gorilla is lighter also.
    Than what? Stans? The supplied tubeless tape from Giant? No, it's not. Gorilla tape is cheap, works really well and you get tons of it in a roll. It is not light.
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  23. #223
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    Quote Originally Posted by Silentfoe View Post
    Than what? Stans? The supplied tubeless tape from Giant? No, it's not. Gorilla tape is cheap, works really well and you get tons of it in a roll. It is not light.
    I think Goran_injo might have been referring to my previous post inquiring about Bontrager rim strips.

  24. #224
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    If you have a look at page 13 of http://media.bontrager.com/owners_ma..._Wheels_EN.pdf . The P-XCR 1 rim bed looks more like the Road TLR than the Mountain TLR. Unfortunately the 429864 Road TLR Tubeless Rim Strip is only 17mm wide though.

  25. #225
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    I have a 2012 Talon 0 29er that has the Giant S-XC29 2 wheelset. Is there a QR to 15mm conversion kit for this front wheel?

    - Thanks!

  26. #226
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    Quote Originally Posted by watson357 View Post
    I have a 2012 Talon 0 29er that has the Giant S-XC29 2 wheelset. Is there a QR to 15mm conversion kit for this front wheel?

    - Thanks!
    Earlier in this thread, someone was talking about using the "mavic QR plugs" from Pricepoint with success. I haven't tried it but have only "heard" it done. They're only $13 I think so its not much of a loss.

    *EDIT* My mistake that is for going from 15mm to 9mm. You cant increase the 9mm to 15mm without replacing the hub. Some hubs do have adapters that change from 9-15-20 such as sunringle'. You CANNOT on the giants wheels.

    Only 15-9 using the mavic plugs (so ive heard)

    Sorry for the mixup...

  27. #227
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    I hope that someone can answer this question and it isn't stupid.

    I remember reading somewhere on the forum that certain Giant-branded rear hubs use DT Swiss (350) internals and can use the ratchet upgrade DT Swiss offers.

    So I'm getting a 2013 model year Giant XTC Comp 1 that comes with the PXC29er 2 wheelset. Specs from website:

    Wheels
    Rims Giant P-XC29er 2, Double Wall
    Hubs [F] Giant Tracker Sealed/CNC w/ 15mm Axle, [R] Giant Tracker Performance, 32h
    Spokes DT Swiss Competition, 14/15g

    Can anyone comment on if this wheelset is this mythical DT Swiss internals hub.

    Thanks!

  28. #228
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    To the best of my knowledge, that wheelset has rebranded Formula-type hubs. You are SOL, my friend.

  29. #229
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    Re: The Giant P-XC/S-XC Wheelset Thread

    I hope that someone can answer this question and it isn't stupid. <br />
    <br />
    I remember reading somewhere on the forum that certain Giant-branded rear hubs use DT Swiss (350) internals and can use the ratchet upgrade DT Swiss offers.<br />
    <br />
    So I'm getting a 2013 model year Giant XTC Comp 1 that comes with the PXC29er 2 wheelset. Specs from website:<br />
    <br />
    Wheels<br />
    RimsGiant P-XC29er 2, Double Wall<br />
    Hubs[F] Giant Tracker Sealed/CNC w/ 15mm Axle, [R] Giant Tracker Performance, 32h<br />
    SpokesDT Swiss Competition, 14/15g<br />
    <br />
    Can anyone comment on if this wheelset is this mythical DT Swiss internals hub. <br />
    <br />
    Thanks!
    I think its the P-TRX WheelSystem wheels that have the DT Swiss internals.

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  30. #230
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    ha, thanks guys. guess I'm buying a new wheelset : )

  31. #231
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    I've just picked up my '13 Anthem X1 29'er with the P-XC2 wheelset and TLR Racing Ralph's.
    I've tried to get them setup tubeless using Stans strips but to no avail, the tyres are way too baggy on the rim, even with the strip installed do there's no chance of them ever seating.
    Any pointers?

  32. #232
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    Quote Originally Posted by steve_b77 View Post
    I've just picked up my '13 Anthem X1 29'er with the P-XC2 wheelset and TLR Racing Ralph's.
    I've tried to get them setup tubeless using Stans strips but to no avail, the tyres are way too baggy on the rim, even with the strip installed do there's no chance of them ever seating.
    Any pointers?
    Are you using an air compressor? Also I have found that the soapy water around all of the bead of the tire is a must...

  33. #233
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    The tyre was way too slack on the rim, even with the strip installed. Gave up and brought a set of crests on Hope Pro II Evo straight pulls and promptly dropped 1.5lbs off the bike anyway

  34. #234
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    I have a 2011 xtc 2 29er and looking to change wheel set. The option I have for the rear wheel is 135mmx10mm, 135x12mm or 142mmx12mm. How do I know what I have?

  35. #235
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    Quote Originally Posted by Putt4Dough View Post
    I have a 2011 xtc 2 29er and looking to change wheel set. The option I have for the rear wheel is 135mmx10mm, 135x12mm or 142mmx12mm. How do I know what I have?
    Call the bike shop you purchased the bike from, just to be sure.
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  36. #236
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    Got the bike lightly used last season.Not from a shop.

    Nobody here has changed wheel set on this bike?

  37. #237
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    Re: The Giant P-XC/S-XC Wheelset Thread

    You need a 135x? Either of those will work but you'll need a new skewer.
    I'm a mountain bike guide in South West Utah

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    Can't I use the same skewer?

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    Re: The Giant P-XC/S-XC Wheelset Thread

    Sorry, maybe...135x5 is the standard size where 5 is referring to the skewer diameter.

    Confusing but 135x10 is also the same as 135x5 but now 10 refers to the axle diameter. However, sometimes that can refer to a 10mm thru axle.

    You'll need to verify this. Both will fit on your bike but if it's the 10mm thru axle, you'll need one of those as well.

    The other two sizes will not fit on your bike.

    Clear as mud?
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    Does anybody have info for the weight of P-XCR wheels that come on the Advanced X1 29'er and how it compares to the P-XC wheels on my Anthem X1 29'er?
    Was wondering if they are a bit ligher and/or stronger than my P-XC2 wheels.
    If somebody is upgrading their Advanced X1 29'er wheels I would consider scooping up the P-XCR rather than building a new set, depending on weight/cost etc.

  42. #242
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    Re: The Giant P-XC/S-XC Wheelset Thread

    Quote Originally Posted by morkys View Post
    Does anybody have info for the weight of P-XCR wheels that come on the Advanced X1 29'er and how it compares to the P-XC wheels on my Anthem X1 29'er?
    Was wondering if they are a bit ligher and/or stronger than my P-XC2 wheels.
    If somebody is upgrading their Advanced X1 29'er wheels I would consider scooping up the P-XCR rather than building a new set, depending on weight/cost etc.
    They are advertised at 1750 grams, but i never weighed them. They are lighter and stiffer and made by DT. Plus, the rear hub is much better with DT star ratchet internals. They ate also tubeless ready and come with the DT Swiss tape and valves for easy conversion.

    I'm 200 pounds and ride rocky terrain and they've held up great. Still true.

  43. #243
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    Just converted my P-XC wheels off my 2011 Anthem X29 using Stan's yellow tape (25mm), sealant and valves. I was hoping to mount Ro Ro and Ra Ra EVO TL tires front and rear. Seal was too floppy, so I tried my Specialized Captain 2Bliss tires. The Spec's aired up immediately using a compressor, and are holding air well. Was hoping to use the Schwalbe tires to get the weight down, but as my wife says, "just pedal faster".

  44. #244
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    Quote Originally Posted by AK47 View Post
    Just converted my P-XC wheels off my 2011 Anthem X29 using Stan's yellow tape (25mm), sealant and valves. I was hoping to mount Ro Ro and Ra Ra EVO TL tires front and rear. Seal was too floppy, so I tried my Specialized Captain 2Bliss tires. The Spec's aired up immediately using a compressor, and are holding air well. Was hoping to use the Schwalbe tires to get the weight down, but as my wife says, "just pedal faster".
    Throw on an extra layer of the tape and see what happens. I put two layers of Gorilla Tape on my P-XC2 wheels and the stock NNs aired up perfect.
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  45. #245
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    Quote Originally Posted by MTBeing View Post
    Throw on an extra layer of the tape and see what happens. I put two layers of Gorilla Tape on my P-XC2 wheels and the stock NNs aired up perfect.
    Thanks for the idea, and I'll give it a whirl and report back!

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    My LBS used a Stan's Kit and they sealed up really well. Ignitor in the back and an Ardent up front.

    As for the wheel themselves....they are a bit on the heavier side, but I'm on the heavy side too, so I don't really mind the weight all that much. But the rear hub does not have near the engagement of my last wheelset....granted that had Chris King Hubs....(Honestly I should have kept them...oh well) Coming off a King Hub and moving down to these you can really tell the difference. Normally I just ride the piss out of stuff till it breaks and I don't notice too much about little things. But Hub engagement is the first little thing, (Besides moving to a carbon fiber frame for a road bike, and finally riding a Ti Frame offroad) that I have a beef with. Other than that they're strong, so I abuse them pretty good. They just need to last until I decide on new lighter wheels, with King Hubs ;P
    Climbing Builds Character

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    I just got a set of these wheels with my Trance X1. I want to put them on my old bike and swap my Stans wheels to the trance. Stans offers a conversion to go from from 9mm QR to 15mm.

    Is there a way to convert my giant wheels to 9mm QR? Id like to use them on my old bike.

  48. #248
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    SX-C tubeless tale:

    Helped a friend convert his SX-C rims, from 2013 XTC carbon 3. He got the Stan's tape/valves and the Schwalbe tires were very loose on the rim but aired up nice with some soapy water and compressor. Shake, flip and repeat with other side and holding pressure with no issues.

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    Quote Originally Posted by infanterene View Post
    I just got a set of these wheels with my Trance X1. I want to put them on my old bike and swap my Stans wheels to the trance. Stans offers a conversion to go from from 9mm QR to 15mm.

    Is there a way to convert my giant wheels to 9mm QR? Id like to use them on my old bike.

    YES! I just read this entire thread. A year or so ago @crclawn commented this:

    For those asking about the Mavic 15mm to 9 mm adapter its very simple on the S-XC2. Its basically just plug and play. You can get it from price point.

    Mavic QR Plug- Fits 15mm Front Axle at Price Point


    See the post and photos here

    The Giant P-XC/S-XC Wheelset Thread

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    DaveChuck- Best first post Ever. Thank you, Saved me about $100

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