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  1. #201
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    hey David,
    I called my lbs and they said they can get me the ztr rims/x9hub/dtswiss spokes for $350 (including the $50 they give me for my sxc2 wheels)
    I think I'll go ahead and get them. I considered the crest with the revolution spokes but i think it would be asking for trouble as far as being to flimsy... so I will most likely get the arch ex with the dtswiss comp spokes.. I presume this will still be a nice improvement over the stock tubed sxc2 wheels..
    Quote Originally Posted by davidcarson48 View Post
    XT or X9 hubs should be under $400 for sure. The ZTR hubs on Stan's site are lighter and more expensive.

  2. #202
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    That sounds like a nice deal. DT Swiss makes a bunch of spokes. I think the best choice would be Competition spokes. Strong, reasonably light, and readily available.

  3. #203
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    Giant S-XC29 2 tubeless conversion not going well

    As anyone ran into problems with the Giant S-XC29 2 rims not converting tubeless due to the joint where the rim comes together leaking? I'm having my LBS setup my bike with tubeless tires and one of the rims continues to leak from what appears to be the "pinned" joint that connects the rims together. I originally had them install Continental Mountain King's II but they couldn't get the front tire to seat. They thought it was the tire so they tried a set of Specailized tires which at first seemed to work, but then the same rim started leaking again at the rim joint. Is this something the LBS is doing wrong or do I have a bad S-XC29 2 rim that is never going to seal up well enough to convert tubeless because of the rim joint?

  4. #204
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    Perhaps use a rim strip?

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  5. #205
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    Quote Originally Posted by Dusty61 View Post
    As anyone ran into problems with the Giant S-XC29 2 rims not converting tubeless due to the joint where the rim comes together leaking? I'm having my LBS setup my bike with tubeless tires and one of the rims continues to leak from what appears to be the "pinned" joint that connects the rims together. I originally had them install Continental Mountain King's II but they couldn't get the front tire to seat. They thought it was the tire so they tried a set of Specailized tires which at first seemed to work, but then the same rim started leaking again at the rim joint. Is this something the LBS is doing wrong or do I have a bad S-XC29 2 rim that is never going to seal up well enough to convert tubeless because of the rim joint?
    Wow, sorry to hear that. I just got a new 2013 "early release" AnthemX Advanced 29er 2 that came with the exact wheelset w/Schwalbe Racing Ralph 2.25 and my lbs converted them over tubeless with stans and I've had no problems so far. Converting a non-tubeless wheelset to tubeless is not 100% guaranteed so you have to accept the results pretty much. I also have a 2011 Specialized FSR 26 that was converted where the front tire has to be pumped up about every 3 days (loses about 5lbs) so I live with that. Currently looking at a set of I9 ZTR ArchEX (which are Stans and designed tubeless).... price of those has caused me to pause a bit though.
    Last edited by Amazed; 01-03-2013 at 04:58 AM.

  6. #206
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    my local shop would not even touch my sxc2 wheels as far as tubeless goes. they said they were not intended for tubeless.. ofcourse we know that they do work in most cases but I suppose they dont want to have to deal with issues like this or slow leaks etc..
    best of luck

  7. #207
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    P-XC2 tubeless question

    For those of you who have successfully converted the P-XC2 wheels tubeless, did you drill out the inner channel hole to 3/8" like the Stan's video shows? It's the "Tubeless Kit" video in this link: Help Center

    I don't really understand the importance of this step, unless the valve would not fit through the hole. Fwiw, I'll be using the gorilla tape method.
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  8. #208
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    Quote Originally Posted by MTBeing View Post
    For those of you who have successfully converted the P-XC2 wheels tubeless, did you drill out the inner channel hole to 3/8" like the Stan's video shows? It's the "Tubeless Kit" video in this link: Help Center

    I don't really understand the importance of this step, unless the valve would not fit through the hole. Fwiw, I'll be using the gorilla tape method.
    I have no idea why they have that step on the video. I remember seeing it also, and was thinking, no way I am taking a drill to my rims. You DO NOT need to drill anything! Put the drill away Good luck and enjoy your tubeless setup! The only thing I can think of is that they were doing that to improve airflow for that initial burst of air from the compressor, but that would not be a bottleneck compared to that tiny opening for the presta valve. Anyway, I did no drilling and have no problems.

    Quote Originally Posted by Bigfoots View Post
    my local shop would not even touch my sxc2 wheels as far as tubeless goes. they said they were not intended for tubeless.. ofcourse we know that they do work in most cases but I suppose they dont want to have to deal with issues like this or slow leaks etc..
    best of luck
    FWIW: I have been running my SXC-2 rims for quite a while and I have had ZERO issues. I have learned to make sure to not skip the soapy water step, and I have to use my air compressor every time to get them inflated (only when I break the bead to add more stans/remove the bugger/change or rotate tires). In my opionion these wheels were made to be run tubeless

  9. #209
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    Both the P-XC and S-XC wheels have been really bomber. Of the few hundred we've sold we've only seen 1 or 2 dented rims. These are tough wheels.

    Heavy though and tubeless conversion as you read here are a bit hit or miss.

    Here is what we were recommended to use for conversion--we don't do it ourselves in the shop, but this is what we tell folks:

    For Giant's P-XC2 29er wheelset: 2 layers Stans' of 21mm rim tape and 1 Stan's Flow rim strip plus lots of soapy water and of course plenty of their sealant. This was specifically for the OEM Maxxis Crossmark that comes on these bikes, which has a really loose fit on these rims.

    The new Schwalbe tires that will be coming on these bikes just required 1 layer of tape (could use Stan's tape or just the heavy duty packing tape with strings in it) plus the Flow rim strip and soapy water if necessary.
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  10. #210
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    @ mtbdennis: Thanks for the affirmation. Drilling into new wheels would freak me out a bit and, yes, the bottleneck is surely the valve itself.

    @kaj: My local shop suggests I try taping the p-XC2 with Gorilla Tape using two layers (no rim strip) and just a valve. Have you had success doing this at all?
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  11. #211
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    Quote Originally Posted by MTBeing View Post
    @ My local shop suggests I try taping the p-XC2 with Gorilla Tape using two layers (no rim strip) and just a valve. Have you had success doing this at all?
    That is what I did, but only one layer of the 1 inch tape. Just used the Stan's valves, not the rim strip. Working great, going on around a year now, still holding up fine.

  12. #212
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    Quote Originally Posted by mtbdennis View Post
    That is what I did, but only one layer of the 1 inch tape. Just used the Stan's valves, not the rim strip. Working great, going on around a year now, still holding up fine.
    Good to know, thanks. I'll probably give it a go with one layer and see how it works out.

    Edit: Used two layers as described below and I'm glad I did.
    Last edited by MTBeing; 01-12-2013 at 02:39 PM.
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  13. #213
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    P-XC2 tubeless setup detailed (1of 2)

    Just got my Trance X 29er and I'm going to make the P-XC2 wheels tubeless, of course. The first post will show the setup and a followup post will discuss the 'aftermath'. Here's some figures/weights and pictures.

    Figures/weights:

    Front wheel:
    - Green rim strip: 18g
    - 170 HS1 rotor+bolts 128g
    - Front wheel (no rotor or rim strip): 860g
    Total F wheel weight including rotor, 2 layers Gorilla tape, and a Stan's valve 1034g

    Rear wheel:
    Rotor (no cassette, rim strip), 2 layers G tape, Stan's valve 1258g

    Schwalbe NN 29, 2.25 700g even.

    Taping procedure:

    1. Remove/discard green rim strip. If I was going to use a Flow r/s for tubeless, I'd leave the stock green r/s in probably.

    2. Clean the bare rim with isopropyl alcohol. This procedure removed some of the interior sheen, and the rag turned a little gray probably taking a little paint with it. This is ok as I need good contact from the tape.

    Note: With the rim strip out I attempted to measure the rim bead hook height/sidewall or whatever it's called. Measure 0.222" - 2 layers G/T (0.038") = 0.184". I hope this residual distance provides a good bead lock for the tire.

    3. Gorilla Tape application:

    Begin 2.5 spoke holes away from the valve hole and end 2.5 holes away (going the other way). Make sure you get the tape centered really well into the drop channel to begin with. I was slightly off center on my first attempt and I had to start over after wrapping about 1/4 of a wheel. In applying the tape, I positioned myself perpendicular to the wheel, looking down into the wheel center-line. I found that this gave me the best view of the process and, more importantly, the best leverage to apply the G/T.

    I proceeded slowly and was not in any rush to apply the tape. Probably applied 4-5 inches at a time all the while PULLING VERY HARD and laying it down. Don't worry, you're not gonna rip this stuff. This stretches the tape just a little and makes it easier to get it even on the rim.

    At this point I was only concerned about getting enough tack to keep the tape from slipping back. I finished wrapping the wheel so that I had two layers all the way around, but the overlap area near the valve hole will actually have 3 for a short distance. The fine-tuning comes next.

    I used a clean rag to then run my fingers over the tape and press into the center area. This will even out the adhesion and remove any small bubbles/imperfections between the tape layers and the rim. After this was completed, I used my Park tire lever to press the tape down evenly on the bead ledge. Be careful on this step so you don't tear this area, otherwise you'll have to start over. The Park t/l has a radius on the pry end which minimizes the chance for tearing the tape.

    The final step was to throw the tube back in and air it up to 40 psi and let the wheel sit overnight. Some of these steps might be overkill but this is the way I've done it with Stan's tape in the past and it's worked very well.

    Sealant and air-up to follow...
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails The Giant P-XC/S-XC Wheelset Thread-img_20130111_204856.jpg  

    The Giant P-XC/S-XC Wheelset Thread-img_20130111_193456.jpg  

    The Giant P-XC/S-XC Wheelset Thread-img_20130111_201116.jpg  

    The Giant P-XC/S-XC Wheelset Thread-img_20130111_200132.jpg  

    The Giant P-XC/S-XC Wheelset Thread-img_20130111_210558.jpg  

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  14. #214
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    P-XC2 tubeless setup detailed (2 of 2)

    So after deflating the tires (tubed) and removing the tubes and tires of the rims I noticed that the tape had further settled into place as evidenced by the adhesive protruding a little from the sides (pic 1). This was most likely the result of the the pressured tube/tire being on the rim overnight and something I consider to be a critical step in the whole process.

    Furthermore, after deflating the tire, I noticed that the bead did not fall away from the sidewall which is a good thing too (pic 2). The bead unseated with a little pinch pressure but not to the extent of what would be required on a Stan's rim.

    Removed the tube, installed the Stan's valve and it was time to soap the beads and re-inflate. Not sure it was the prep work, the good bead interference, or the result of a high-quality tire but the tire lost very little pressure in the 5 or so minutes I had it inflated with just soap and water (pic 3). I couldn't even do this on a Stan's Arch rim (which I own) and this gave me a ton of confidence that running these rims tubeless would not be an issue. The tire seated with the distinctive POP, POP at about 30 psi. All that was left to do was to deflate the tire and put in 3 scoops of my home-brew sealant (per tire) (pic 4).

    The tires are holding air perfectly and only required one shake revolution per wheel, since the tire holds air really well by itself. Overall, I'm really pleased with the results and the process was pretty smooth. Thanks to everyone who participated in this thread and gave advice on setting these Giant wheels up tubeless.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails The Giant P-XC/S-XC Wheelset Thread-img_20130112_104209.jpg  

    The Giant P-XC/S-XC Wheelset Thread-img_20130112_101454.jpg  

    The Giant P-XC/S-XC Wheelset Thread-img_20130112_102614.jpg  

    The Giant P-XC/S-XC Wheelset Thread-img_20130112_103340.jpg  

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  15. #215
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    Has any one tried the Bontrager rims strips with the Giant P-XCR 1 wheels? You can see the description of these wheels here P-XCR 29er 1 WheelSystem (WheelSystems) - Bike Gear | Giant Bicycles | Australia . I don't know the difference between the rims on these wheels and the P-XC 2 wheels.
    The P-XCR 1 wheels come with DT Swiss tubeless conversion strips http://www.dtswiss.com/Resources/Sup...it-User-Manual. The wheels initially leaked a lot from the join in the rim, but Stans sealant seems to have stopped this. What I am a little worried about, is that the tyres I am using (RaRa evo tlr) fall straight off the bead when you let the tyre down. You then need a compressor to get them to air up again, no hope with a hand pump. This is very different to my experience with Maxxis Ignitor and LUST Crossmarks on 26" UST rims, that lock very solidly up on the beads. Perhaps the difference is the tyres rather than the rims?
    The Bontrager 406892 rim strip is made for a rim with a 21mm internal width, but the P-XCR 1 rims have a 19mm internal width. Is the internal width of the P-XC 2 rims also 19mm?
    The Bontrager 400337 rim strip is made for a rim with a 19mm internal width, but I believe is asymmetric Bontrager: Tubeless Replacement Parts (Model #02566).

  16. #216
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    On my P-XCR 0 I had a similar DT setup provided.

    I've applied Gorilla tape, and works like a charm. Track pump to get aired, and seems reliable, I can't get it to burp even below 15PSI. And Gorilla is lighter also.

  17. #217
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    Burping issues?

    I was wondering if anyone has had any burping issues and losing a large amount of air pressure during a ride? I have always used UST specific rims which occasionally burped (I could see dried sealant by the rim after a ride) but sealed without issue during the ride. I will be converting 26" P-XCR 2 wheels to tubeless, and I usually run about 28-30 psi.

    I did not see any complaints of massive air pressure loss due to burping during a ride but I thought I would ask.

    Thanks.

  18. #218
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    Quote Originally Posted by Stevem9 View Post
    I was wondering if anyone has had any burping issues and losing a large amount of air pressure during a ride? I have always used UST specific rims which occasionally burped (I could see dried sealant by the rim after a ride) but sealed without issue during the ride. I will be converting 26" P-XCR 2 wheels to tubeless, and I usually run about 28-30 psi.

    I did not see any complaints of massive air pressure loss due to burping during a ride but I thought I would ask.

    Thanks.
    I don't have alot of hours on the conversion listed above but given that they hold air with soaped beads, I strongly doubt they'll burp

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    Good point and thanks, MTBeing.

  20. #220
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    Quote Originally Posted by dkselw View Post
    Has any one tried the Bontrager rims strips with the Giant P-XCR 1 wheels? You can see the description of these wheels here P-XCR 29er 1 WheelSystem (WheelSystems) - Bike Gear | Giant Bicycles | Australia . I don't know the difference between the rims on these wheels and the P-XC 2 wheels.
    The P-XCR 1 wheels come with DT Swiss tubeless conversion strips http://www.dtswiss.com/Resources/Sup...it-User-Manual. The wheels initially leaked a lot from the join in the rim, but Stans sealant seems to have stopped this. What I am a little worried about, is that the tyres I am using (RaRa evo tlr) fall straight off the bead when you let the tyre down. You then need a compressor to get them to air up again, no hope with a hand pump. This is very different to my experience with Maxxis Ignitor and LUST Crossmarks on 26" UST rims, that lock very solidly up on the beads. Perhaps the difference is the tyres rather than the rims?
    The Bontrager 406892 rim strip is made for a rim with a 21mm internal width, but the P-XCR 1 rims have a 19mm internal width. Is the internal width of the P-XC 2 rims also 19mm?
    The Bontrager 400337 rim strip is made for a rim with a 19mm internal width, but I believe is asymmetric Bontrager: Tubeless Replacement Parts (Model #02566).
    It is not just the RaRa evo tlr that falls off the bead. I have also now tried a UST Crossmark, and it also falls off the bead when you loose pressure. However the Crossmark is tight enough that you can inflate the tyre with a track pump, I did not need a compressor to seat the bead.
    I removed the DT Swiss rim strip, and used 3 layers of Gorilla tape instead. I can now seat the bead of both the RaRa and the Crossmark with a track pump. Both tyres still drop into the rim center channel when you let the tyre down. Perhaps its not a major problem, I have not burped the tyres yet. But it does not give me a lot of confidence.
    I would still be interested if someone has tried the Bontrager rim strips on the P-XCR 1 rims.
    Last edited by dkselw; 02-03-2013 at 05:32 PM.

  21. #221
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    Quote Originally Posted by jn35646 View Post
    Has anyone tried using the Bontrager parts with the S-XC rims/stock Maxxis Crossmarks that come on the AX29er3? If so please chime in, I would like to convert mine, mostly to avoid thorn punctures but improved grip doesn't hurt either.

    406892 Black 29er Rhythm Tubeless Rim Strip-Symmetric
    250324 Tubeless Rim Valve

    Hey Just a heads up, this set up may have worked in prior years of the PXC Wheels, however, I have a set of 2012 PXC2 Wheels and that set up did not work at all. They may have changed something, but my LBS tried to do it and no go. A Stan's kit however sealed them up tight and easy.

    Like I said a Heads up, not saying it doesn't work with the 2011 and older versions but the 2012 it does not.

    Happy Trails.

  22. #222
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    Quote Originally Posted by Goran_injo View Post
    And Gorilla is lighter also.
    Than what? Stans? The supplied tubeless tape from Giant? No, it's not. Gorilla tape is cheap, works really well and you get tons of it in a roll. It is not light.
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  23. #223
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    Quote Originally Posted by Silentfoe View Post
    Than what? Stans? The supplied tubeless tape from Giant? No, it's not. Gorilla tape is cheap, works really well and you get tons of it in a roll. It is not light.
    I think Goran_injo might have been referring to my previous post inquiring about Bontrager rim strips.

  24. #224
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    If you have a look at page 13 of http://media.bontrager.com/owners_ma..._Wheels_EN.pdf . The P-XCR 1 rim bed looks more like the Road TLR than the Mountain TLR. Unfortunately the 429864 Road TLR Tubeless Rim Strip is only 17mm wide though.

  25. #225
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    I have a 2012 Talon 0 29er that has the Giant S-XC29 2 wheelset. Is there a QR to 15mm conversion kit for this front wheel?

    - Thanks!

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    Quote Originally Posted by watson357 View Post
    I have a 2012 Talon 0 29er that has the Giant S-XC29 2 wheelset. Is there a QR to 15mm conversion kit for this front wheel?

    - Thanks!
    Earlier in this thread, someone was talking about using the "mavic QR plugs" from Pricepoint with success. I haven't tried it but have only "heard" it done. They're only $13 I think so its not much of a loss.

    *EDIT* My mistake that is for going from 15mm to 9mm. You cant increase the 9mm to 15mm without replacing the hub. Some hubs do have adapters that change from 9-15-20 such as sunringle'. You CANNOT on the giants wheels.

    Only 15-9 using the mavic plugs (so ive heard)

    Sorry for the mixup...

  27. #227
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    I hope that someone can answer this question and it isn't stupid.

    I remember reading somewhere on the forum that certain Giant-branded rear hubs use DT Swiss (350) internals and can use the ratchet upgrade DT Swiss offers.

    So I'm getting a 2013 model year Giant XTC Comp 1 that comes with the PXC29er 2 wheelset. Specs from website:

    Wheels
    Rims Giant P-XC29er 2, Double Wall
    Hubs [F] Giant Tracker Sealed/CNC w/ 15mm Axle, [R] Giant Tracker Performance, 32h
    Spokes DT Swiss Competition, 14/15g

    Can anyone comment on if this wheelset is this mythical DT Swiss internals hub.

    Thanks!

  28. #228
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    To the best of my knowledge, that wheelset has rebranded Formula-type hubs. You are SOL, my friend.

  29. #229
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    Re: The Giant P-XC/S-XC Wheelset Thread

    I hope that someone can answer this question and it isn't stupid. <br />
    <br />
    I remember reading somewhere on the forum that certain Giant-branded rear hubs use DT Swiss (350) internals and can use the ratchet upgrade DT Swiss offers.<br />
    <br />
    So I'm getting a 2013 model year Giant XTC Comp 1 that comes with the PXC29er 2 wheelset. Specs from website:<br />
    <br />
    Wheels<br />
    RimsGiant P-XC29er 2, Double Wall<br />
    Hubs[F] Giant Tracker Sealed/CNC w/ 15mm Axle, [R] Giant Tracker Performance, 32h<br />
    SpokesDT Swiss Competition, 14/15g<br />
    <br />
    Can anyone comment on if this wheelset is this mythical DT Swiss internals hub. <br />
    <br />
    Thanks!
    I think its the P-TRX WheelSystem wheels that have the DT Swiss internals.

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  30. #230
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    ha, thanks guys. guess I'm buying a new wheelset : )

  31. #231
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    I've just picked up my '13 Anthem X1 29'er with the P-XC2 wheelset and TLR Racing Ralph's.
    I've tried to get them setup tubeless using Stans strips but to no avail, the tyres are way too baggy on the rim, even with the strip installed do there's no chance of them ever seating.
    Any pointers?

  32. #232
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    Quote Originally Posted by steve_b77 View Post
    I've just picked up my '13 Anthem X1 29'er with the P-XC2 wheelset and TLR Racing Ralph's.
    I've tried to get them setup tubeless using Stans strips but to no avail, the tyres are way too baggy on the rim, even with the strip installed do there's no chance of them ever seating.
    Any pointers?
    Are you using an air compressor? Also I have found that the soapy water around all of the bead of the tire is a must...

  33. #233
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    The tyre was way too slack on the rim, even with the strip installed. Gave up and brought a set of crests on Hope Pro II Evo straight pulls and promptly dropped 1.5lbs off the bike anyway

  34. #234
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    I have a 2011 xtc 2 29er and looking to change wheel set. The option I have for the rear wheel is 135mmx10mm, 135x12mm or 142mmx12mm. How do I know what I have?

  35. #235
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    Quote Originally Posted by Putt4Dough View Post
    I have a 2011 xtc 2 29er and looking to change wheel set. The option I have for the rear wheel is 135mmx10mm, 135x12mm or 142mmx12mm. How do I know what I have?
    Call the bike shop you purchased the bike from, just to be sure.
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  36. #236
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    Got the bike lightly used last season.Not from a shop.

    Nobody here has changed wheel set on this bike?

  37. #237
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    Re: The Giant P-XC/S-XC Wheelset Thread

    You need a 135x? Either of those will work but you'll need a new skewer.
    I'm a mountain bike guide in southwest Utah

  38. #238
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    Can't I use the same skewer?

  39. #239
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    Re: The Giant P-XC/S-XC Wheelset Thread

    Sorry, maybe...135x5 is the standard size where 5 is referring to the skewer diameter.

    Confusing but 135x10 is also the same as 135x5 but now 10 refers to the axle diameter. However, sometimes that can refer to a 10mm thru axle.

    You'll need to verify this. Both will fit on your bike but if it's the 10mm thru axle, you'll need one of those as well.

    The other two sizes will not fit on your bike.

    Clear as mud?
    I'm a mountain bike guide in southwest Utah

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    Does anybody have info for the weight of P-XCR wheels that come on the Advanced X1 29'er and how it compares to the P-XC wheels on my Anthem X1 29'er?
    Was wondering if they are a bit ligher and/or stronger than my P-XC2 wheels.
    If somebody is upgrading their Advanced X1 29'er wheels I would consider scooping up the P-XCR rather than building a new set, depending on weight/cost etc.

  42. #242
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    Re: The Giant P-XC/S-XC Wheelset Thread

    Quote Originally Posted by morkys View Post
    Does anybody have info for the weight of P-XCR wheels that come on the Advanced X1 29'er and how it compares to the P-XC wheels on my Anthem X1 29'er?
    Was wondering if they are a bit ligher and/or stronger than my P-XC2 wheels.
    If somebody is upgrading their Advanced X1 29'er wheels I would consider scooping up the P-XCR rather than building a new set, depending on weight/cost etc.
    They are advertised at 1750 grams, but i never weighed them. They are lighter and stiffer and made by DT. Plus, the rear hub is much better with DT star ratchet internals. They ate also tubeless ready and come with the DT Swiss tape and valves for easy conversion.

    I'm 200 pounds and ride rocky terrain and they've held up great. Still true.

  43. #243
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    Just converted my P-XC wheels off my 2011 Anthem X29 using Stan's yellow tape (25mm), sealant and valves. I was hoping to mount Ro Ro and Ra Ra EVO TL tires front and rear. Seal was too floppy, so I tried my Specialized Captain 2Bliss tires. The Spec's aired up immediately using a compressor, and are holding air well. Was hoping to use the Schwalbe tires to get the weight down, but as my wife says, "just pedal faster".

  44. #244
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    Quote Originally Posted by AK47 View Post
    Just converted my P-XC wheels off my 2011 Anthem X29 using Stan's yellow tape (25mm), sealant and valves. I was hoping to mount Ro Ro and Ra Ra EVO TL tires front and rear. Seal was too floppy, so I tried my Specialized Captain 2Bliss tires. The Spec's aired up immediately using a compressor, and are holding air well. Was hoping to use the Schwalbe tires to get the weight down, but as my wife says, "just pedal faster".
    Throw on an extra layer of the tape and see what happens. I put two layers of Gorilla Tape on my P-XC2 wheels and the stock NNs aired up perfect.
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  45. #245
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    Quote Originally Posted by MTBeing View Post
    Throw on an extra layer of the tape and see what happens. I put two layers of Gorilla Tape on my P-XC2 wheels and the stock NNs aired up perfect.
    Thanks for the idea, and I'll give it a whirl and report back!

  46. #246
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    My LBS used a Stan's Kit and they sealed up really well. Ignitor in the back and an Ardent up front.

    As for the wheel themselves....they are a bit on the heavier side, but I'm on the heavy side too, so I don't really mind the weight all that much. But the rear hub does not have near the engagement of my last wheelset....granted that had Chris King Hubs....(Honestly I should have kept them...oh well) Coming off a King Hub and moving down to these you can really tell the difference. Normally I just ride the piss out of stuff till it breaks and I don't notice too much about little things. But Hub engagement is the first little thing, (Besides moving to a carbon fiber frame for a road bike, and finally riding a Ti Frame offroad) that I have a beef with. Other than that they're strong, so I abuse them pretty good. They just need to last until I decide on new lighter wheels, with King Hubs ;P
    Climbing Builds Character

  47. #247
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    I just got a set of these wheels with my Trance X1. I want to put them on my old bike and swap my Stans wheels to the trance. Stans offers a conversion to go from from 9mm QR to 15mm.

    Is there a way to convert my giant wheels to 9mm QR? Id like to use them on my old bike.

  48. #248
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    SX-C tubeless tale:

    Helped a friend convert his SX-C rims, from 2013 XTC carbon 3. He got the Stan's tape/valves and the Schwalbe tires were very loose on the rim but aired up nice with some soapy water and compressor. Shake, flip and repeat with other side and holding pressure with no issues.

  49. #249
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    Quote Originally Posted by infanterene View Post
    I just got a set of these wheels with my Trance X1. I want to put them on my old bike and swap my Stans wheels to the trance. Stans offers a conversion to go from from 9mm QR to 15mm.

    Is there a way to convert my giant wheels to 9mm QR? Id like to use them on my old bike.

    YES! I just read this entire thread. A year or so ago @crclawn commented this:

    For those asking about the Mavic 15mm to 9 mm adapter its very simple on the S-XC2. Its basically just plug and play. You can get it from price point.

    Mavic QR Plug- Fits 15mm Front Axle at Price Point


    See the post and photos here

    The Giant P-XC/S-XC Wheelset Thread

  50. #250
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    DaveChuck- Best first post Ever. Thank you, Saved me about $100

  51. #251
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    Ok, so what exactly was the final answer for the weight on the S-XC2 29" wheels.

    The only numer I see mentioned is "520g"

    is that front? rear? sounds a little light..

    what is the weight of the WHEELS.. I.E. front and rear, no cassette, no tires, no rotors..

    for reference when considering an upgrade..

  52. #252
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    Here is a great article about an upgrade wheelset on a XTC. Here are the proper weight mesurements.

    Stock bike with Shimano clipless pedals and a water bottle cage – 27lbs/11oz
    Stock rear wheel with 2.0 Kenda Karma, 26” presta tube, 11-34 Deore level 9 speed cassette, 160mm Avid rotor, QR – 5lbs/11oz or 2580g
    Stock, bare rear wheel with no accessories – 1262g

    26”x1.5-2.2 tube – 172g
    Rear Kenda Karma 2.0 – 554g
    Stock front wheel with 2.2 Kenda Karma, 26” tube, 160mm rotor – 4lbs/10oz or 2100g
    Front 2.2 Karma – 809g
    Stock front wheel, bare no accessories – 973g

    Upgrade:

    Haven rear wheel bare w/tubeless stem – 984g
    Rear Specialized Fastrak LK 2.0 – 566g
    2 scoops Stan’s sealant
    Complete Haven rear wheel with OE Giant accessories, Easton QR – 4lbs/15 oz or 2240g

    Haven front wheel bare w/ tubeless stem – 807g
    Specialized 2.2 Purgatory S Works – 668g
    2 scoop Stan’s sealant
    Complete Haven front wheel with rotor, etc – 3lbs/10oz or 1644g

    Weight saved on total front wheel – 1lb or 454g
    Weight saved on total rear wheel – 1lb/1oz or 482g
    New bike total weight – 25lbs 15oz
    Easton Haven 29"er Wheels On Test: Project XC

  53. #253
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    Is the
    bike in the review a 2013? they dont say what year, does every XTC-1 come with the the S-XC2 wheels?
    Just wondering considering the review never mentions the year of the bike, and always refers to the stock wheels as "stock wheels"

  54. #254
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    The article was writhen in November 2010 and the colour does match the 2010 xtc 1 model.

    XtC 29er 1 (2010) - Bikes | Giant Bicycles | United States

  55. #255
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    "ultra-stiff P29 rim"


    ???????????

  56. #256
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    My bad! There are multiple contradicting information in this thread in regards to weight so your best bet is to strip them down and do the work yourself. That is if your objective is replace to reduce to the least weight possible. I have a set of those rimes and I am upgrading soon to Arch EX but I am not sure I will take the time to strip the old rims to measure them since I already have them setup for commuting.

  57. #257
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    Edit: Nevermind. I found my answer...

  58. #258
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    Quote Originally Posted by Sb.Reno View Post
    I am getting my Anthem x1 29er later this week and want to set up tubeless immediately. Can you really only go with some stans/gorilla tape and a valve stem?
    Just converted mine with gorilla tape and valves last night. Used the racing Ralphs that came on the bike and 2 1/2 scoops of Stan's. was able to get the bead to seat with my floor pump.

  59. #259
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    With a 2nd layer of Stan's yellow tape (25mm), I finally got non-tubeless tires aired up on my P-XC wheels (2011 AX29). I tried several times to no avail with the floppy, stock Crossmarks...

  60. #260
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    Quote Originally Posted by AK47 View Post
    With a 2nd layer of Stan's yellow tape (25mm), I finally got non-tubeless tires aired up on my P-XC wheels (2011 AX29). I tried several times to no avail with the floppy, stock Crossmarks...
    My previous bike was 2011 anthem 29 and got most tires to work ghetto style on PX-C but the Crossmark was impossible. Interestingly, it aired up without issue on a Stan's arch rim using just a floor pump!

  61. #261
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    Quote Originally Posted by ja001son View Post
    Is the
    bike in the review a 2013? they dont say what year, does every XTC-1 come with the the S-XC2 wheels?
    Just wondering considering the review never mentions the year of the bike, and always refers to the stock wheels as "stock wheels"

    Quote Originally Posted by Putt4Dough View Post
    The article was written in November 2010 and the color does match the 2010 xtc 1 model.

    XtC 29er 1 (2010) - Bikes | Giant Bicycles | United States
    The bike in that article was indeed a 2010 XTC 1 with the P-XC rims. The original wheels were from what I would say was an early production run. The had the silver colored rims (and I think they were a darker color after that) with a Shimano FH-M525 rear hub and I believe a house brand front 15QR hub. I know that because I had to replace that freehub after about a month of riding it ;~)

    It was an odd wheelset for an XTC 1, IMHO since the XTC 1 was an otherwise fairly XC race-worthy bike, and those stock rims were overkill. The Havens were much nicer, and even they were overkill for what the bike actually is. The wheelset was really the only thing on that bike that wasn't pure XC oriented. Even with the odd wheelset, it was riding that bike that convinced me to retire my 2005 Reign, and begin slurking down the big wheel kool-aid.

    Regards,
    Jeff

  62. #262
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    The Giant P-XC/S-XC Wheelset Thread

    Has anyone confirmed if the mavic 15-9mm plugs fit in the giant wheels?

    These?

    http://www.pricepoint.com/Brand/Mavi...-R-Adapter.axd
    There's something about those long grueling climbs that gets my front end all stiff... And I'm not talking about lockout...

  63. #263
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    Perfect fit on mine.

  64. #264
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    Re: The Giant P-XC/S-XC Wheelset Thread

    Dido! Work greeeaat!

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  65. #265
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    Quote Originally Posted by MTBeing View Post
    Throw on an extra layer of the tape and see what happens. I put two layers of Gorilla Tape on my P-XC2 wheels and the stock NNs aired up perfect.
    The 2 layers of 25mm wide Stan's tape did the trick for me in airing up a tubeless ready RoRo on the front and a RaRa in the rear.

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    If you have giant tracker front hubs that are not DTswiss rebrand - they are fine, I have them and it works.
    If you have Dtswiss that has 15mm endcaps, and you fit 9mm endcaps in those 15mm endcaps, DT 15mm caps can break.


    Quote Originally Posted by kikoraa View Post
    Has anyone confirmed if the mavic 15-9mm plugs fit in the giant wheels?

    These?

    Mavic 15mm to 9mm Q/R Adapter | Mavic | Brand | www.PricePoint.com

  67. #267
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    Hey guys, so I have the S-XC 2s with Schwalbe Nobby Nic, 26x2.25 Performance. I'm constantly getting flats, be it pinched or otherwise. Just tired of dealing with tubes.

    Can I convert this to tubeless? The Schwable site said the "Performance" one isn't a tubeless tire. If not, whats a decent tire you might suggest that would work well with this wheel?

    Thanks, bit of a newb, been out of the game for a few years

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    Schwalbe 'Performance' may work - expect some issues

    Quote Originally Posted by beno0055 View Post
    Hey guys, so I have the S-XC 2s with Schwalbe Nobby Nic, 26x2.25 Performance. I'm constantly getting flats, be it pinched or otherwise. Just tired of dealing with tubes.

    Can I convert this to tubeless? The Schwable site said the "Performance" one isn't a tubeless tire. If not, whats a decent tire you might suggest that would work well with this wheel?

    Thanks, bit of a newb, been out of the game for a few years
    I recently bought a Giant XTC Composite 1 29er. It is stock with the exception of the tires (more on that later). The wheelset is Giant P-XC2.

    I have successfully converted to tubeless - and I learned a great deal on the way to get there. Initially, I attempted to go tubeless with the stock 2.1" RacingRalphs Performance tires (non-tubeless), Gorilla Tape and Slime Pro Tire Sealant. I applied one layer of Gorilla Tape and used a heat gun to shrink the tape after applying. One layer of tape was not enough to get the tire bead to seat on the rim. I applied another layer of tape and the beads successfully seated with compressed air.

    As an aside, the RacingRalphs were really easy to get on and off the rim. They were so loose that you could literally grab the un-inflated tire with one hand and pull it right off the rim.

    Once inflated to 60psi, the tires had numerous pin-holes in the sidewalls which the sealant did successfully seal. After doing the pump-and-shake dance a few times, they started holding air overnight.

    On the trail, they would slowly loose air at the rim. While they could be pumped up again on the trail, eventually I had to resort to re-installing tubes. I believe that part of the problem was that the lightweight casing and the 2.1" tire size was just not enough for my 195lb body. Anything less than 30psi and I could feel the tire warble over during turns. I think they would have worked better if I was 25lbs lighter.

    I bought a set of 2.25" Maxxis Ardents with the EXO casing. They went on the rims without tools. I can set the bead with a floor pump. I have about 6 rides on them with absolutely no problems. Are they heavier? Yes. But, I could not be happier with their performance.

    In conclusion:
    - Gorilla Tape: 2 Layers required, works just fine for $3
    - Slime Pro Sealant: Works just fine, smells great too
    - Racing Ralph Performance 2.1's: Will seal - did not work for me
    - Maxxis Ardents 2.25's: Works with no issues

    So, can you go tubeless with the S-XC's and Nobby Nics? Maybe. I believe that rim is pinned and not welded. So, you may need to go full ghetto tubeless to make the rim airtight. The Nobby Nics will probably seal up, but the sidewalls may not be enough for tubeless. I think its worth attempting, though. Based upon my limited experience, I would have no reservations going with any of the Maxxis Exo Sidewall tubeless tires.

    Cheers

  69. #269
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    Does anyone know what internals are in the 2013 sxc-2 rear free hub? Was wanting to upgrade it and read somewhere in this thread that I might be able to do it with the DT Swiss kit? Or could it be a deore hub? Anyone have any insight?

    Bike is a 2013 Trance X3
    SXC-2 Wheel set [F] Giant Tracker Sealed, [R] Formula Sealed Bearing, 32h

  70. #270
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    Re: The Giant P-XC/S-XC Wheelset Thread

    Quote Originally Posted by Hagen View Post
    Does anyone know what internals are in the 2013 sxc-2 rear free hub? Was wanting to upgrade it and read somewhere in this thread that I might be able to do it with the DT Swiss kit? Or could it be a deore hub? Anyone have any insight?

    Bike is a 2013 Trance X3
    SXC-2 Wheel set [F] Giant Tracker Sealed, [R] Formula Sealed Bearing, 32h
    You don't have DT internals in your hub. It's a generic Formula hub.

  71. #271
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    Has anyone replaced the freehub on giant tracker pxc2 rear hub?

    My freehub bearings are toast. I have a complete new spare hub. Is it possible to swap over all the internals of the hub without re lacing it to the spokes and rim? I was told that I could take out the internals and just swap them overdoes the freehub stay attached to the axle?

  72. #272
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    The Giant P-XC/S-XC Wheelset Thread

    I have two sets of s-xc wheels. Both converted to tubeless. I used a stans kits, and have RaRa and NoNi mounted. I used co2 to get hem mounted, but so far, yes they do lose pressure over time, but do not deflate completely, and always pressure up when I want to use them.


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  73. #273
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    Hi guys,

    I have a 26" Gaint P-XC2 Wheelset which I would like to convert to tubeless.

    I have become a bit confused with which rim strips & valves to use.
    Which are the best ones to use?


    Also do you use UST tyres, UST compatible tyres or just regular tyres?

  74. #274
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    You should just be able to get some Stan's yellow tape and tape those wheels up. As far as valves, you can cut the valves out of an old set of tubes, or you can buy Stan's valves or WTB valves. The tires I have mounted on my two sets of wheels tubeless are all regular tires, but that can be hit and miss. Tape the wheels up, and put the valve stems in, then try to mount your tires and get the beads to seat without any sealant. If they'll seat (doesn't matter if they hold air long term or not - without sealant, they won't) then add sealant, get it all where it needs to be, and you should be fine.

  75. #275
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    Quote Originally Posted by Cotharyus View Post
    You should just be able to get some Stan's yellow tape and tape those wheels up. As far as valves, you can cut the valves out of an old set of tubes, or you can buy Stan's valves or WTB valves. The tires I have mounted on my two sets of wheels tubeless are all regular tires, but that can be hit and miss. Tape the wheels up, and put the valve stems in, then try to mount your tires and get the beads to seat without any sealant. If they'll seat (doesn't matter if they hold air long term or not - without sealant, they won't) then add sealant, get it all where it needs to be, and you should be fine.

    Can I cut the valve out of a road tube or will it have to be a MTB one?

  76. #276
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    I would use an MTB tube if you go that route. There's a thick place in the tube around the base of the stem, cut all the way around that, not right around the base of the stem. I don't think a road tube has as large a thick area. I honesty only went that route over buying valve stems because I had the tubes with removable core stems laying around with punctures in them.

  77. #277
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    So what is the tightest 29er tire available to mount on these P-XC tires? Double layer gorilla tape, compressor does not work for me.

    Thanks.

  78. #278
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    Quote Originally Posted by DerrickT View Post
    So what is the tightest 29er tire available to mount on these P-XC tires? Double layer gorilla tape, compressor does not work for me.

    Thanks.
    Lots of soapy water on the bead. I also remove the valve stem core and use the pool toy plastic adapter and put it in the open stem, then blast 110 psi in there. Then put finger over stem whole and quickly put core back in. Has worked with every tire I have tried.

    Try, try, and try again, you will get it. For me the soapy water is not optional.

  79. #279
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    I couldn't get a conti mountain king or a tioga psycho genius to mount with any amount of soapy water, valve core removed, and an air compressor with a real presta head on it. My RaRa's mounted up just fine, and I hear most Schwalbe's will, so if you like something they make, try that. Otherwise, I'm looking for other stuff to try, because I don't like the RaRa's much, and I've about worn the back one out anyhow. I may give the MK another try up front, and move that RaRa to the back though.

  80. #280
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    The Giant P-XC/S-XC Wheelset Thread

    Fwiw my stock Nobby Nics were holding air with just a soapy bead. two layers of GT and Stan's valves.

    Are your tires just not filling? When I put in new sealant I have to put the wheel between my legs and pull the sidewalls away from the center channel of the rim. This really helps with good, quick inflation. Sometimes I'll press the tire in with my thumb over the valve hole as I'm inflating. I don't know why, but it seems to help if the tire is being stubborn.
    Please donate to IMBA or your local IMBA chapter. It's trail karma.

  81. #281
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    Some P-XC2 wheel weights 2012 Anthem X0 (Australian model)

    Some P-XC2 wheel weights from 2012 Anthem X0 (Australian model)

    Wheel - Front 925g - Rear 1190g OEM hub/spoke/nipple/rim/rimstrip assy.
    Tyre - F572g R520g OEM Racing Ralph Evo (very mild wear on rear tyre)
    Tube - F185g R183g OEM Avid
    Disc - F135g R93g OEM Avid
    Disc Bolt - F13g R13g OEM
    Cassette - 367g OEM HG81? 11-36

    Have photos on scale, couldn't be bothered uploading them.
    But will do if people need to see/verify.
    Ride Safe.

    www.lighttouchchiropractic.com.au Manly Sydney

  82. #282
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    The Giant P-XC/S-XC Wheelset Thread


    Pulled the rear hub apart of my pxc2 rims. Drive side bearing was cactus. The freehub body has some play but I think I'll put it all back together with new bearings. Need an 11mm Allen key to remove the freehub. The wheels are my second set as I have arch ex's on the bike now. They save about 500grams on the giant rims
    The specific tools you need are a 19mm cone wrench and 11mm Allen wrench

  83. #283
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    The Giant P-XC/S-XC Wheelset Thread

    Nice pics Charliedontsurf. I disassembled my freehub body and left the pawls and pawl carrier on the hub. You don't need to remove and possibly damage any wheel bearings that way. To do that, simply insert a set of long nose pliers into the cut out sections you can see on your second pic, just inside the free hub body and turn clockwise to undo (it's reverse thread) EDIT FROM ORIGINAL POST. This removes the bearing carrier and the outer part of the freehub will come away. There are two rows of loose bearings inside which will be full of dirt and crap. After cleaning, it can be difficult to get the loose bearings to sit in the correct position for reassembly. So I found that a smear of grease along the bearing race and you then stick each bearing to the grease so that when you reassemble everything stays where it should be. A very light oil should be used for the pawls and ratchet and you will get a nice positive and clean ratchet noise. Just my 2c. Hope this has not been covered already.

    By the way, has anyone worked out how to tighten the axle nut and locknut on the freehub body side? The axle nut sits below the level of the freehub, so you cannot get a cone spanner onto it. Any ideas??
    Last edited by pvdm10; 09-03-2013 at 02:02 PM.

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    The Giant P-XC/S-XC Wheelset Thread

    Thanks for the info. I might regrease the free hub loose bearings too. That could be why I have play in them. I used a small adjustable spanner to tighten the lock nut. Worked well
    Last edited by CharlieDontSurf; 09-04-2013 at 03:04 AM.

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    The Giant P-XC/S-XC Wheelset Thread

    No worries, it kept mine going for a bit longer, otherwise it was a bin job. Mine also has developed play now though. No sure the rebuild will help with that. Let us know how you get on.

    The axle nut needs to be held with a thin cone spanner while you tighten the lock nut. I can get a cone spanner on the lock nut no problems, but holding the axle nut at the same time is impossible as the free hub body protrudes over it and blocks access for a second cone spanner. You might run into this problem on reassembly. I was just wondering if anyone had worked out how to tighten it in this way.

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    The Giant P-XC/S-XC Wheelset Thread


    Thought I would give a little more detail on the Giant Tracker Performance Hub service. These are PXC-2 wheels from a Trance X1 29er 2013. As far as I know you cannot upgrade this hub, so its service or replace. This service requires patience and about 1 hour to perform. Take your time and be careful not to lose any loose bearings. There should be 25 in each row.

    1) first remove the cassette, lock nut, washer and seal from the free hub side and you will see the wheel bearing as per the photo. A set of long nose pliers can be used to loosen the bearing carrier by turning CLOCKWISE. Insert the tips into the recesses i have circled. Hold the free hub body against the hub as you remove the bearing carrier so you don't let the lower set of loose bearings fall out.

    Then you will see this:


    2) This is the first row of bearings. Remove and clean. Then carefully lift up the free hub body and the lower bearings will be exposed. Careful not to lose bearings that might be stuck to the grease on the free hub body as you remove it.



    3) Clean and grease including the freehub body. Remember light oil for ratchet and pawls and grease for bearings.





    4) Apply a smear of grease and stick all 25 clean and dry bearings in place. Note their position is right on the race and not sitting lower down (where they want to fall).

    5) Place the free hub body back on and check that it is sitting right down against the hub and seal. Otherwise your bearings have moved.

    6) drop the remaining bearings back in the top and align as in the pic below. Don't forget the washer that I have put an arrow next to. It's easiest to put it in first before the bearings.

    7) reinstall the bearing carrier and tighten by turning anti-clockwise. Check for smooth operation and then reinstall seal, axle nut, washer and lock nut. Go ride!

  87. #287
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    Quote Originally Posted by pvdm10 View Post
    No worries, it kept mine going for a bit longer, otherwise it was a bin job. Mine also has developed play now though. No sure the rebuild will help with that. Let us know how you get on.

    The axle nut needs to be held with a thin cone spanner while you tighten the lock nut. I can get a cone spanner on the lock nut no problems, but holding the axle nut at the same time is impossible as the free hub body protrudes over it and blocks access for a second cone spanner. You might run into this problem on reassembly. I was just wondering if anyone had worked out how to tighten it in this way.
    I removed the axle through the drive side (mine won't go our the brake side) and set the cone nut, washer and lock nut so the bearing had the smallest amount of play I could get on the axle. I locked the assembly before re-inserting it in the drive side. I drew it up tight on the brake side.

  88. #288
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    I just purchase a new wheelset for my 2012 Anthem X 4 29er. I had to pull my S-XC2 wheelset off and strip it down. Here is the weights of the wheels. These have Stans rimstrips and valves install.

    Front 1090 grams
    Back 1295 grams

    The Giant P-XC/S-XC Wheelset Thread-img_3119.jpgThe Giant P-XC/S-XC Wheelset Thread-img_3121.jpg

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    I recently bought a closeout Talon 0 hardtail (a few weeks ago) so I've been riding it quite a bit, just cross country type stuff, nothing too technical. I'm pretty happy with the bike for the most part. Budget components means it is heavy and I've noticed the shifting is a little slow at times but overall I really like the bike and the way it rides. It is a large with the 29er wheels so it rolls over everything.

    Anyway, I have been lurking here and reading about these S-XC2 wheels so after looking around the web and reading about various wheelsets I took the plunge and bought a 2012 Easton EA70 XCT on closeout for $179 and paired it with a 2013 Easton EA70 XCT (graphics might be a very very slight shade different but otherwise I can't tell the difference).

    When I took them out of the packaging I first thought I had just wasted $480 but after swapping the brake disc and the tire/tube off my old front wheel I changed my mind. The front wheel with brake disc, skewer, tire and tube weighs 5.2 lbs. The Easton EA70 XCT front wheel with brake disc, skewer, tire and tube weighs almost 1/2 lb less (my fish scale only weighs in lbs and kilos).

    One other thing I noticed is the Giant wheels felt really gritty when I hold the axle and spin them in my hand. Like there is dirt in the bearings or not enough grease or they are just not well machined parts. The Eastons are smooth as butter plus they have sealed cartridge bearings. They are also lighter, stiffer and stronger. I noticed a lot of flex in the budget Giant wheels. We'll see if that translates into a harsh ride on the trails I guess but so far they seem to be a huge win.

    Plus, they are UST ready so when I wear these tires out I'm going to go tubeless which should drop even more weight off the wheels.

    I'm going to swap over the rear wheel tonight and go riding this weekend with some friends. Can't wait!

    Rear wheel is installed. Weight dropped by a full pound. Can anyone tell if the graphics are ANY different between the 2012 and the 2013 wheel? This bike weighs less than my wife's 26" hardtail Trek.

    Oh, and the rear wheel, while it had some surface rust on the skewer had none of the gritty feeling the front wheel has when spinning it by hand. Maybe it was just a bad one.

    I cleaned the chain and took a pic this morning. Going to thrash it tomorrow.

    Last edited by sandiego; 09-28-2013 at 09:00 AM.

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    That might be the best lookin talon i have ever seen

    PS. I would switch the tires before they wear out. Rapid robs arent the best tires sidewall wise, traction wise nor weight wise...

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    Quote Originally Posted by Woodwhistler View Post
    That might be the best lookin talon i have ever seen

    PS. I would switch the tires before they wear out. Rapid robs arent the best tires sidewall wise, traction wise nor weight wise...
    Thanks!

    Got any recommendations for the tires? I'm in San Diego so I ride a lot of dry dusty trails, some beach rides, some technical dirt/rock strewn stuff. Lots of climbing and bombing down hills.

    I stopped by Performance Bike today and they have the Kenda Nevegal tire onsale for $45 each.
    Last edited by sandiego; 09-28-2013 at 09:06 PM.

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    Nevegals according the info I have got by surfing the web can be overkill for a hardtail. Dunno. What I can recommend from real life is: Maxxis ardent front and crossmark rear or Schwalbe Nobby Nic front and Rocket Ron rear or Specialized Purgatory front and ground control rear. Then you choose the width and sidewall protection amount according to your own preferences. And my 2 cents is: if you are thinking between two tires, and the other one has bigger thread than the other, buy the one with bigger thread! Watch out that you dont buy a dh tire, though!

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    Thanks for the tips. I'll check them out.

    I'm off to ride in about 2 hours so I'm anxious to see how these new wheels feel out on the trails. I'll try to get some pics and post them later today.


    This is part of the trail we rode yesterday. It was freaking hot out there.

    Last edited by sandiego; 09-30-2013 at 07:07 PM.

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    Any info on the weights of these wheels for 27.5"

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    What trail is that? I'm in San Diego and am interested in new trails

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    The Giant P-XC/S-XC Wheelset Thread

    Quote Originally Posted by sandiego View Post
    Thanks!

    Got any recommendations for the tires? I'm in San Diego so I ride a lot of dry dusty trails, some beach rides, some technical dirt/rock strewn stuff. Lots of climbing and bombing down hills.

    I stopped by Performance Bike today and they have the Kenda Nevegal tire onsale for $45 each.
    Kenda "Nevergos" are a good tire but have higher rolling resistance. Might want to take a look at Geax Saguaros.


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    Quote Originally Posted by MTBeing View Post
    Kenda "Nevergos" are a good tire but have higher rolling resistance. Might want to take a look at Geax Saguaros.


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    I run 2.35 x 26" Nevegals and I would agree with that statement. The traction is great on the (often wet) rocky, rooty terrain we have here in New England, but they feel very heavy and slow.

    For dry conditions I imagine there are better choices.

    Although the new version of the Nev might be worth looking into. I saw them this weekend at a bike fest. The knobs are the same basic shape, but smaller and lower profile. The Kenda guy said the design goal was "lighter & faster". According to him, the 29" tires are 130 grams lighter.
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  98. #298
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    Has anyone got the 27.5 P-XC wheels? Are they tubeless ready, I pulled the tyre off and it has tape but not sure if it's tubeless ready. Doesn't say so I guess not

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    Quote Originally Posted by Joel. View Post
    Has anyone got the 27.5 P-XC wheels? Are they tubeless ready, I pulled the tyre off and it has tape but not sure if it's tubeless ready. Doesn't say so I guess not
    Did setup a set from the Anthem 27.5 x1 Alu, worked OK with Tape + rim strips. Worked the same way as the 26/29 versions. Did notice a little leak where the rim was welded.

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    New question here.

    Hi Everyone

    This is actually my first post

    I have a 2012 Anthem X 29er (size L) and so far far I have upgraded the seat, seatpost and grips.

    After saving some cash, I'm looking at a worthwhile upgrade, for which I'd like to ask for some advice.

    I do mostly XC, riding 2-4 times a week, and I currently weigh 78.5kg (that's about 173lbs).

    As you'd expect, the bike came with S-XC2, and it sure seems that a lot of people think it's worth upgrading to something lighter.

    I'm no trial monster, nor am I the faster rider, but I do manage get some (minimal) air when we race. As I'm sure like most of you, my enjoyment of riding leads me into some unpredictable situations. So far the S-XC2's have been holding up pretty well, I must say, I never experienced any problems and I can recall quite a few hard hits, some causing tire blowouts and even rips in tire walls. The S-XC2's might be heavy, but in my case they have certainly inspired confidence!

    From reading these threads, I am tempted into thinking that one could really benefit by upgrading to something like Stan's ZTR Crest 29er. This is a *big* deal for me, since I'm on a budget and I live in South Africa (read: those rims cost even more over here after shipping and reseller costs get added).

    On Stan's own web site they describe the Crests (claimed weight of 1610 grams) as "The ZTR Crest is built for cross country and light trail use." (emphasis added), whereas the Arch (claimed weight of 1775g) is described as "Although lightweight, the Arch EX can handle aggresive trail riding".

    So I need some advice, please...

    Would you recommend the Crests for mostly XC use, or should I rather go for the Arch, in which case I'm not really saving that much weight? (if I understand correctly the S-XC2 to Arch upgrade saves only about 300g).

    Then again, considering my bike and weight, am I overlooking another (albeit cheaper) upgrade that might benefit me more? If so, what would you recommend?

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