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  1. #26
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    I was just posting to this thread for people curious about the stock specs of the wheelset.

    I'm curious as to how much can be saved by going with a lighter front and rear rotor and a ghetto tubeless conversion.

  2. #27
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    Hey Dictatorsaurus,

    Where did you get the valves for your Gorilla Tape Getto Tubeless setup?

  3. #28
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    Quote Originally Posted by willevans
    Hey Dictatorsaurus,

    Where did you get the valves for your Gorilla Tape Getto Tubeless setup?
    Stans makes different valves for different setups. I got their "standard" valves for regular rims. They also make valves for UST specific rims.

  4. #29
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    Has anyone tried to get at the bearings in the front 15mm Giant Hub from the PXC2?
    Mine were making some noises on Sat and I am not sure how to take off the caps around the 15mm axle. There are flats on them, but they do not seem to undo easily - I was not going to lean on the spanner without being sure what would happen next…any advice gratefully received.

  5. #30
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    Quote Originally Posted by willevans
    I haven't found a weight for the rear cassette, but it's a 11-36T unit, so I think it makes up the biggest difference between the front and rear weights (assuming rear hub is a normal amount heavier than the front hub). Depending on how the shake-down rides go, I might go to a lighter and more conventional 11-34 or 11-32 cassette.
    .

    Keep in mind that your new XTC comes with a TEN SPEED cassette, If you are going to change it for something lighter, you can't grab a 9 speed from the garage and pop it on, it won't shift

  6. #31
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    Quote Originally Posted by scyule
    Keep in mind that your new XTC comes with a TEN SPEED cassette, If you are going to change it for something lighter, you can't grab a 9 speed from the garage and pop it on, it won't shift
    In case you aren't trolling, the whole reason why I bought the 2011 over the 2010 was the improved wheels and 10-speed drivetrain. I meant to imply earlier that I'd just sell the 11-36 and put that money towards a 10spd cassette with an 11-32 spread.

    For future notes: someone who uses a gram scale to weigh bike components typically (but not always) understands the compatibility issues between different drivetrains.

  7. #32
    Tossin the salad.
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    my bad, double post
    Last edited by TX_Shifter; 03-17-2011 at 07:47 PM.

  8. #33
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    Quote Originally Posted by Duke of Earl
    My two cents:

    P-XC2 profile inner bead width is 19mm with a sleeve joint. The rim weights are: 440g (26") and 490g (29") give or take 10g. 24mm tall profile allows for a slightly shorter spoke which helps manage the overall wheel weight PLUS increase the stiffness slightly.

    S-XC2 profile inner bead width is also 19mm with a pinned joint. The rim weights are: 460g (26") and 520g (29"), also give or take 10g. A slightly shorter profile is not nearly as radially stiff which does allow for slightly greater vertical compliance.

    Hope it helps.

    B
    Interesting, so the rim weight on the P-XC2 is actually very close to the Stan's Arch rim (470g) and about 100g more than the Crest. That is good information to have! Thanks!

  9. #34
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    My P-xc2 off AX1 are 913/ 1045 total at 1958g. Air up possibly even tighter than crests with a plenty of popping noises. I run with just stans yellow tape and sealant OK[ I always run a couple of psi higher without rim strips though]
    I like them especially the quiet DT350 hub on the rear compared to my hope hubs.Look like DT competition 2.0mm/ 1.8mm spokes. Really don't need to upgrade something like a flow wheelset as these are sensible weight and stiffness.
    Last edited by gvs_nz; 03-20-2011 at 01:19 PM.

  10. #35
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    Quote Originally Posted by gvs_nz
    My P-xc2 off AX1 are 913/ 1045 total at 1958g.
    What makes up your measured weight (Wheel, hub, cluster, etc.)? It doesn't sound too bad at all.

  11. #36
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    The usual, bare wheel with OEM rim tape, no skewer.
    Last edited by gvs_nz; 04-15-2011 at 01:29 PM.

  12. #37
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    Quote Originally Posted by gvs_nz
    My P-xc2 off AX1 are 913/ 1045 total at 1958g. Air up possibly even tighter than crests with a plenty of popping noises. I run with just stans yellow tape and sealant OK[ I always run a couple of psi higher without rim strips though]
    I like them especially the quiet DT350 hub on the rear compared to my hope hubs.Look like DT competition 2.0mm/ 1.8mm spokes. Really don't need to upgrade something like a flow wheelset as these are sensible weight and stiffness.
    I'm going to collect an Anthem X2 tomorrow, and I was looking to drop a bit of weight. I thought the wheels might be a good place to start, but I think these won't be so easy to sell on, and looking at those figures, I won't even save so much weight.

    perhaps I should just rebuild the wheels with revs and alloy nipples and be done with it.

  13. #38
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    X2 wheels are different to X1. X1 use DT350 rear hub, DT competition 2.0/1.8 spokes and alloy nipples.X2 wheels would be about 200g heavier X1. You could drop 140g with revs and alloy nipples. If you also switch to a XT M775 CL rear hub you would come similar to the X1 wheels.

  14. #39
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    Quote Originally Posted by gvs_nz
    X2 wheels are different to X1. X1 use DT350 rear hub, DT competition 2.0/1.8 spokes and alloy nipples.X2 wheels would be about 200g heavier X1. You could drop 140g with revs and alloy nipples. If you also switch to a XT M775 CL rear hub you would come similar to the X1 wheels.
    The wheels on my X2 have Sapim Race spokes, which are also double-butted. Can't imagine there's a lot of difference in weight.

    Actually, having finally ridden this bike, the thing I like least about the wheels is the rear hub engagement, which feels very slow compared to my other wheels (Hope Pro2, DT 240s & a King). I'm not sure I can live with it. Weight seemed fine though. Not super light, but definitely not heavy either. I haven't weighed them, since I don't have any scales, but I don't feel they are really holding me back.

    Leon

  15. #40
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    I converted my rear wheel with the stock Maxxis Aspen on it to ghetto tubeless and it's working really well.

  16. #41
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    I guess I didn't need the whole kit with the rim strips and everything! Can you guys who've gone tubeless using tape and valves go into more detail for a beginner? Did you remove the tape giant had in there before you put down your tape? The tape that came with my stans plus 4 kit does not seem wide enough for my Pxc 29er wheels...

  17. #42
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    My first attempt was with Gorilla Tape and a Stan's valve. I couldn't pinpoint the leak source, but it wouldn't hold pressure overnight. After three rides where the tire would effectively be flat after 10 miles I had to replace with a tube. Now, with the ghetto tubeless method, the tire holds air as if there was a tube in it and I'm comfortable running at 5 psig less than before (with tubes).

  18. #43
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    Tried the G Tape method and couldnt get tire to air.
    Tried innertube method seems to be working better, but I used some sealant from the shop I work at, and it must be old or garbage sealer, (not name familiar). Still seeping out around bead. Trying new sealant, I live in the boonies so slime is the most available.
    Got to ride tubeless on the way home, I am totally blown away by the diff.
    I wont give up till I get it right. Its worth it.

  19. #44
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    Quote Originally Posted by Phaceplant
    Tried the G Tape method and couldnt get tire to air.
    Tried innertube method seems to be working better, but I used some sealant from the shop I work at, and it must be old or garbage sealer, (not name familiar). Still seeping out around bead. Trying new sealant, I live in the boonies so slime is the most available.
    Got to ride tubeless on the way home, I am totally blown away by the diff.
    I wont give up till I get it right. Its worth it.
    How many layers of Gorilla tape?

    I did two layers. Crossmark and Ardent seated fine with floor pump.

  20. #45
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    Anyone tried enlarging the valve hole from a Presta to Schrader on their S-XC2? Does it weaken the rim? Anything I need to watch out for before I start enlarging the hole? I want to switch over to Schrader valve to keep only one type of tubes in my backpack for all 3 bikes that I take out for a ride.

    Thanks!

  21. #46
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    Do yourself a HUGE favor and buy a few of those little adapters that fit in the rim and convert your Schrader rims to Presta.

  22. #47
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    I want to install some slime into the tube and I know it can be done w/ Presta valve, but requires more work. Maybe I'll just buy the Presta tubes that comes w/ Slime already.

  23. #48
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    Quote Originally Posted by Dictatorsaurus
    How many layers of Gorilla tape?

    I did two layers. Crossmark and Ardent seated fine with floor pump.

    I watched a Y/T video, the guy used one layer.
    So I used one layer.
    How wide did you make it?
    Does the tape come up the inside wall of the rim, like the innertube method does?

  24. #49
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    Some tires are tighter than others. Crossmarks are very loose so probably need two layers.

  25. #50
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    Quote Originally Posted by Phaceplant
    I watched a Y/T video, the guy used one layer.
    So I used one layer.
    How wide did you make it?
    Does the tape come up the inside wall of the rim, like the innertube method does?
    Different rims and different tires work well...differently

    You can get the 1" wide Gorilla tape and put two layers. Try not to ride up on the side walls too much so you can use a butterknife to sort of wedge the tape in the corner. It's ok if the tape rides on the side wall a little.

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