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  1. #51
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    do you guys take out the green tape that came in the wheels first?

  2. #52
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    Quote Originally Posted by seewhatididther
    do you guys take out the green tape that came in the wheels first?
    You mean the rim tape. Yes. Take it out.

  3. #53
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    has anyone been successful with ghetto tubeless on SXC2's? i couldnt tell which of the posts above were PXC vs SXC... Thanks!

  4. #54
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    SOME INFO AND UPDATES THAT I POSTED ON ROTORBURN WHICH MIGHT HELP


    For anyone that is interested i have converted by pxc2 rims from my 2011 xtc 29er1 to tubeless tonight using the parts listed below from bontrager (including part numbers),

    406892 Black 29er Rhythm Tubeless Rim Strip-Symmetric
    250324 Tubeless Rim Valve

    1. Basically the procedure was really easy strip down my stock wheels and remove the rim tape.

    2. Fit the rim strip starting at the valve hole. put the valve in before you start to fit it but don't tighten it up yet.

    3. Carefully work the rim strip into the centre of the rim channel and then go around both beads to make sure it is pushed right down into the bead.

    4. Tighten up tubeless valve core

    5. Fit tires, obviously with a scoop or two of stans, work the bead into place using nothing but your bare hands so you don't damage the rim strip with tire levers or the like.

    6. I then pumped my new tubeless pxc2 rims and tires up with my track pump (no compressor required), so far they are holding air perfectly.


    A couple of things to note.


    Rim strip fits absolutely perfectly like it was made for the rims.

    Tire beads snap into bead with a load twang (inspires confidence)

    I used maxxis no ust tires and they sealed up easily following the stans shake and rotate method.


    thats all guys ill give an update in a week after a few rides.

    any questions dont hesitate to pm me


    UPDATE 1

    they held at 60 psi overnight with no stans leaking out anywhere so it looks like this was a success ill let them down to high 20's low 30's and take them for a ride tomorrow.


    For the record tires are


    Maxxis ardent 29*2.4 front exo sidewall
    Maxxis ardent 29*2.25 lust rear

    i rode these tires with tubes for a few weeks before going tubeless and they were awwesome

    UPDATE 2

    Just a quick update over 200km in the last 2 weeks on the ardents tubless with the bontrager strips as low as 22psi on the front 2.4 and 26 psi on the rear 2.25, no burping no flats no problems at all, just tons and tons of grip. If your thinking about going tubless stop thinking and start doing it. No negatives that i can think of

    UPDATE 3

    I have done about 400kms on this setup on a mixture of wet single track (muddy), hard packed groomed trails and loamy single track, plus some rough rail trail and also some commuting on sealed pavement.


    comments

    Traction and lots of it
    No problems running pressures down to 22psi so far
    no burping
    no loss of pressure
    noticable difference in rolling resistance since ditching the tubes ( i was using heavy bontrager 2.3-2.5 tubes)
    Lighter wheelset by about 250 grams.


    All in all an awesome conversion that i would highly recommend

  5. #55
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    Quote Originally Posted by alefak
    has anyone been successful with ghetto tubeless on SXC2's? i couldnt tell which of the posts above were PXC vs SXC... Thanks!
    Yup it works and seals better than anything else. I used normal 24x1.95 Presta q-tubes with removeable valve cores for putting in more stans. They work great.

    I took the stock rim tape out and replaced it with two rev's of nylon strapping tape.

  6. #56
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    What about older P29 rims? Do they fall into the same category or are they completely different rims?
    Me. The chosen one. They chose me. And I didn't even graduate from fu**ing high school.

  7. #57
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    Help!
    My PXC rims have a green rim strip. Do I remove that, clean it up and What Stan's kit/tape should I buy. I gotta try tubeless!!!!

  8. #58
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    I set up my S-XC2's and non--UST Ignitors with one layer of Stan's tape and Stan's valves. Works fine. The P-XC2's are eyeletted (can't remember if that was mentioned) and the rim profile is better for tubeless (wider bead surfaces).

  9. #59
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    Quote Originally Posted by R-Mills View Post
    Help!
    My PXC rims have a green rim strip. Do I remove that, clean it up and What Stan's kit/tape should I buy. I gotta try tubeless!!!!
    Get rid of the green strip you wont need it. I spoke to Stans a couple weeks ago, and they still didnt have a kit for our wheels. I was successful using the innertube ghetto method, and so far, so good. I bought the ingredients, and made up a bunch. Works just like they say. Use the recepie listed here:
    Best Tubeless Brew?
    Bike is lighter better traction, all good... so far.

  10. #60
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    I have the s-xc2 wheel set on my xtc 29er. I was wondering if it is possible to change the front hub from 15mm axle to a 9mm with just changing the end caps? thanks!!

  11. #61
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    Quote Originally Posted by Andy FitzGibbon View Post
    I set up my S-XC2's and non--UST Ignitors with one layer of Stan's tape and Stan's valves. Works fine. The P-XC2's are eyeletted (can't remember if that was mentioned) and the rim profile is better for tubeless (wider bead surfaces).
    Did you use the 21mm or 25mm tape? Also what valve?


    Thanks

  12. #62
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    Quote Originally Posted by hillsprinter View Post
    I have the s-xc2 wheel set on my xtc 29er. I was wondering if it is possible to change the front hub from 15mm axle to a 9mm with just changing the end caps? thanks!!
    Mavic do some 15mm adapters with a very slim profile which just slip into the 15mm bore of the hub. I think Price point sell them.

  13. #63
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    Quote Originally Posted by mudmav View Post

    ...snip

    All in all an awesome conversion that i would highly recommend
    I followed mudmav's instructions and took some pictures at the same time.. I was a complete noob to tubeless, so found it a fun experience!

  14. #64
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    Quote Originally Posted by gvs_nz View Post
    Mavic do some 15mm adapters with a very slim profile which just slip into the 15mm bore of the hub. I think Price point sell them.
    this one?

    http://www.pricepoint.com/detail/207...p=295%20MAVQ50

    I wonder if it would work on the giant hub.

  15. #65
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jubas View Post
    I followed mudmav's instructions and took some pictures at the same time.. I was a complete noob to tubeless, so found it a fun experience!
    Wow just wow
    That's a great post it makes me want to get those parts right now. I have ardent 2.25 coming, I may try that on those.
    Thanks again for posting the weights

  16. #66
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jubas View Post
    I followed mudmav's instructions and took some pictures at the same time.. I was a complete noob to tubeless, so found it a fun experience!
    Nice work! Where did you get the rim strips from?

    Agree on the shocking weather, hopefully it dries out a little so we can ride this weekend.
    blah blah blah

  17. #67
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    I ended up getting them from Clarence St Cyclery in Sydney. You can't buy bontrager parts online in Australia as far as i'm aware The prices for the valves and strips $9 per valve, and $15 per strip (Aussie dollars that is.. about 1.06 AUD to the American peso )

  18. #68
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    Has anyone tried using the Bontrager parts with the S-XC rims/stock Maxxis Crossmarks that come on the AX29er3? If so please chime in, I would like to convert mine, mostly to avoid thorn punctures but improved grip doesn't hurt either.

    406892 Black 29er Rhythm Tubeless Rim Strip-Symmetric
    250324 Tubeless Rim Valve

  19. #69
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jubas View Post
    I ended up getting them from Clarence St Cyclery in Sydney. You can't buy bontrager parts online in Australia as far as i'm aware The prices for the valves and strips $9 per valve, and $15 per strip (Aussie dollars that is.. about 1.06 AUD to the American peso )
    Thanks mate, did they have them in stock or did you have to order them in? I will get my wife to pick some up next time she is in the city for a meeting.
    blah blah blah

  20. #70
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    Have been running for ages - works fine. Aired up with a compressor first go for three tyres (original 2 and a replacement) Just about to go back to the last fave tyre - Aspen - as the crossmarks have worn out.

  21. #71
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    Quote Originally Posted by ozlongboarder View Post
    Thanks mate, did they have them in stock or did you have to order them in? I will get my wife to pick some up next time she is in the city for a meeting.
    Yep - in stock at the workshop (the bottom level). Probably not a bad idea to give them a call beforehand though.. it would be easy for them to check with the product numbers i imagine!

  22. #72
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    Does anyone know of a shop in Brisbane that also stocks the rim strips?

  23. #73
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    Bontrager are distributed through Trek, so just track down a Trek store..

  24. #74
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    The Bontrager Rythm strips are too wide for the SX-2 rim, so I went with Stan's yellow tape & valves. The rim channel must be slightly shallower. J

  25. #75
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    S-XC Panaracer Rampage ghetto conversion

    Just finished the ghetto gorilla tape conversion of my Anthem 29er S-XC wheelset. Rampage 2.35 folding tire and Stan's sealant no additives, followed the jimcarrie youtube video and inflated using a compressor. With these tires there is no way you can use a floor pump and even with compressor lots of leakage until the stuff gets shaken around and fills gaps. Rode around the block and set for a couple of hours and still holding. Checked with soapy water and no leaks so far!

    Tip - using the tape end stuck on table, stretch it good as you wrap the wheel for clean bond. The tighter the tape the better the bond with no wrinkles Used 2 cups on first wheel but with all the leakage I used 3 on the second for good measure and later puncture protection. could not hear any sealant on shaking after everything sealed with 2 cups. These tires oozed a lot before the bead sealed.
    Hopefully, a ride off road this evening or tomorrow will be the test. I am stoked!

  26. #76
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    Update on the S-XC Rampage Gorilla tape ghetto conversion Anthem X 29 -

    Been 2 days and 2 short pavement rides and 1 hr single track, no jumps or big drops but using most of my travel and running mid 20's psi. Still holding as of today! First day some strange weeping of black watery drips along the bead but after wiping did not reappear.

    One wrap of G tape and an old valve from old tube. Stan's only about 2 - 21/2 cups per tire.

  27. #77
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    Quote Originally Posted by dolande View Post
    Did you use the 21mm or 25mm tape? Also what valve?


    Thanks
    Can't remember what tape for sure, but I think it was the narrower stuff. Used Stans valves.

  28. #78
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    Quote Originally Posted by scyule View Post
    Keep in mind that your new XTC comes with a TEN SPEED cassette, If you are going to change it for something lighter, you can't grab a 9 speed from the garage and pop it on, it won't shift
    I have a 2011 XTC 2 and its a NINE speed.

  29. #79
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    Quote Originally Posted by Andy FitzGibbon View Post
    Can't remember what tape for sure, but I think it was the narrower stuff. Used Stans valves.
    Thanks

  30. #80
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    Ditch the Aspens if you ride near rocks

    I have been running ghetto tubeless on my 2011 XTC 29er 1 with the stock Maxxis Aspen tires. Everything on the bike is bone stock except for the tubeless conversion. 2 miles into my forth race I split the rear tire's sidewall so bad it wouldn't stay on the rim even after I put a tube in there. So sad as it was my home course and the only race to be held there this year.

    Ghetto tubeless works just fine on the stock rims, but go with a beefier tire.

  31. #81
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    FYI guys, Stan's has now tested the S-XC and deemed it compatible with the flow rim strip. They have also listed this on their site. The guy I spoke with at Stan's told me to just leave the factory rim strip in the tire and install the flow rim strip over it. No need to apply tape.

    I have them on order and will give it a go next weekend.

  32. #82
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    Had my local shop do the Stan's conversion to my P-XC2's and it works perfectly. Tubeless is so much the win.

  33. #83
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    new to tubeless..

    been looking at ZTR Crest wheelset and i was wondering how heavy are giant's Hub and how do they perform as compared to Hope or DT swiss 240 hubs..

    My bike is a 2011 XTC 2 29er.. so its the S-XC wheel.

    I wana reduce weight but should i change the whole set or can i reuse the hubs etc? i like the red hubs =)

  34. #84
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    Quote Originally Posted by jianxing View Post
    new to tubeless..

    been looking at ZTR Crest wheelset and i was wondering how heavy are giant's Hub and how do they perform as compared to Hope or DT swiss 240 hubs..

    My bike is a 2011 XTC 2 29er.. so its the S-XC wheel.

    I wana reduce weight but should i change the whole set or can i reuse the hubs etc? i like the red hubs =)
    I don't know the weight of the hubs alone, but the wheels are pretty heavy: 950 grams for the front and 1200 grams for the rear. That's without cassette, skewers, or rotors. I saved almost a pound by going to Stans 355 rims and WTB LaserDisc hubs.

  35. #85
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    Quote Originally Posted by jianxing View Post
    new to tubeless..

    been looking at ZTR Crest wheelset and i was wondering how heavy are giant's Hub and how do they perform as compared to Hope or DT swiss 240 hubs..

    My bike is a 2011 XTC 2 29er.. so its the S-XC wheel.

    I wana reduce weight but should i change the whole set or can i reuse the hubs etc? i like the red hubs =)
    As long as you're not heavy and very strong, I would not be too concerned about performance of the stock hubs. They should be fine. If you are very strong and heavy, I would take the opportunity to upgrade the hubs. I have trouble with Shimano freehubs for this reason.

    I have been riding DT Swiss 240s hubs for the past year with no troubles. Plenty strong and very easily serviced with NO tools needed to do so. Just push the freehub body off (leave the cassette on) with your fingers. Remove the two piece star ratchet and the two large coil springs, clean, lube and reassemble. Simplest thing I have ever seen.

  36. #86
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    DT 240s are sweet but i prefer a red colour hub..

    Looking at chris king vs hope2 pro evo.
    Any thoughts? is it worth it or are there any better suggestions?
    Last edited by jianxing; 07-04-2011 at 01:18 AM.

  37. #87
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    My rear hub on my S-XC is giving up the ghost. The bike 2 months old and has developed a grinding sound when freewheeling, a click in the pedal stroke, and the cassette wobbles very slightly. I am 205 lbs. Do you think Giant will warranty it?

  38. #88
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    Quote Originally Posted by brianpalser View Post
    My rear hub on my S-XC is giving up the ghost. The bike 2 months old and has developed a grinding sound when freewheeling, a click in the pedal stroke, and the cassette wobbles very slightly. I am 205 lbs. Do you think Giant will warranty it?
    Two months? Absolutely.

  39. #89
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    Quote Originally Posted by JimmyNeutron10101 View Post
    I want to install some slime into the tube and I know it can be done w/ Presta valve, but requires more work. Maybe I'll just buy the Presta tubes that comes w/ Slime already.
    Some presta tubes have removeable cores. Sunlines' do.
    You have to look REAL close at the valve end of the presta valve. There are little flats for a small wrench, (I use crescent).

  40. #90
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    Quote Originally Posted by Andy FitzGibbon View Post
    Can't remember what tape for sure, but I think it was the narrower stuff. Used Stans valves.
    Andy, anyway you can just check your email for the invoice from where you ordered it? $15 ain't much for rim tape and shipping but I prefer not to do this twice

  41. #91
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    Quote Originally Posted by brianpalser View Post
    My rear hub on my S-XC is giving up the ghost. The bike 2 months old and has developed a grinding sound when freewheeling, a click in the pedal stroke, and the cassette wobbles very slightly. I am 205 lbs. Do you think Giant will warranty it?
    I would think so. Just the same, I would start thinking about a more durable rear hub.

  42. #92
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    With the help of a friend I pulled apart the hub and greased up the bearings. Put it back together and no issues whatsoever. On one hand I am very happy to have no problems, but on the other hand I was hoping to have a reason to buy a new set of Stan's arches, and a lighter cassette. The hubs on the s-xc's are not cartridge bearings.

  43. #93
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    Just to put my semi-weight weenie mind to rest, it's the hubs that are heavy, right? Didn't one post in this long thread say the rims on the p-xc2 are 440 grams? That's tolerable. And the spokes are db and a bit shorter due to rim depth.

    Weight at the center I can tolerate. I'm all for 1600gram wheelsets for my xc-riding 170 pound non-jumping body but will live with a combined 450 extra grams if it's the hubs.

    Quote Originally Posted by Andy FitzGibbon View Post
    I don't know the weight of the hubs alone, but the wheels are pretty heavy: 950 grams for the front and 1200 grams for the rear. That's without cassette, skewers, or rotors. I saved almost a pound by going to Stans 355 rims and WTB LaserDisc hubs.

  44. #94
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    The rear freewheel on my P-XC2 just started making a grinding/knocking noise yesterday...
    I took it apart and regreased, but the sound is still there.

    Has anyone encountered this issue and solved it in another way than Brianpalser has?

    If I can I want to avoid sending it away or leaving it in a shop for an extended period of time.

  45. #95
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    I was removing the crossmarks from my P-XC's this weekend (new 29erx1) - and while it didn't hit me at the time - i realized the my set has a "yellow" rim tape and not the green that has been discussed and even shown - it may be nothing - but was hypothesizing that maybe its the Stans yellow tape that would seal these for tubeless?

    I'd like to give it a shot - and see if they hold - but dont want to waste any brew if I can find out ahead of time - whether or not my hypothesis may be correct...

    any thoughts? or a simple test without going through the whole procedure to mount/test?

    Thanks

  46. #96
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    If that tape looks like its glued to the rim(doesn't move) and covers the spoke holes you should be ok! Try it with a scoop and a half or two of Stans and use a compressor to air up.

    Shake and shake it up good - let us know how it works!

  47. #97
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    For the guys that used Stan's yellow tape...21mm or 25mm tape?

  48. #98
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    Stans Tape

    I used 25mm.

  49. #99
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    I must eat crow. Contrary to what I wrote the other day, tonight the oem Anthem X1 wheels went ghetto tubeless on the front with a WTB Mutano Raptor 2.4 Race. Maybe it was better compressor technique or, heck, I dunno, but my DIY card was renewed in about 5 minutes tonight.

    Tomorrow I'll see if the newfound "technique" will work on that lightweight flimsy oem Crossmark 2.1; others have done it so fingers crossed.

  50. #100
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    Great tips! Can't wait to lower the weight a bit on my XTC 1.

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