• 10-19-2013
    Cotharyus
    Quote:

    Originally Posted by Silentfoe View Post
    The Anthems are much better seated climbers BTW.

    That. Only on rare occasions when climbs are super technical and steep all in the same go do I find myself standing, and that's usually carrying too much gear to spin, and plowing through at unthinkable speeds, you know, the way 29er riders are accused of blowing through all the of "fun technical" sections of a trail.
  • 10-21-2013
    manuelr417
    Quote:

    Originally Posted by Silentfoe View Post
    What psi are you running? How much do you weigh? Yes, you can combine slx and xt. Climbing is all about technique. Adjust to your bike and learn where it likes you to be to get the best bite. The Anthems are much better seated climbers BTW.

    True. When my wife and I switched from 26 HT to 29er FS, we had to adjust our climbing technique, reducing torque to prevent losing traction. I find it easier to speed up a little bit before a short climb and then remain seated, or stay seated during longer climbs. I only get out the saddle on very steep short climbs, or on the road (force of habit).

    I switched my stock Racing Ralphs 2.25 on my Anthem X1 to Specialized Ground Control 2.10, due to a sidewall puncture . That was not good. The bike had a bit better traction but overall I felt it slower, especially on the single tracks. I switched to Racing Ralphs 2.25 Snake Skin and now it feels quick again, plus the snake skins are holding up to rocks.
  • 10-21-2013
    morkys
    Quote:

    Originally Posted by Silentfoe View Post
    What psi are you running? How much do you weigh? Yes, you can combine slx and xt. Climbing is all about technique. Adjust to your bike and learn where it likes you to be to get the best bite. The Anthems are much better seated climbers BTW.

    Quote:

    Originally Posted by Cotharyus View Post
    That. Only on rare occasions when climbs are super technical and steep all in the same go do I find myself standing, and that's usually carrying too much gear to spin, and plowing through at unthinkable speeds, you know, the way 29er riders are accused of blowing through all the of "fun technical" sections of a trail.

    Quote:

    Originally Posted by manuelr417 View Post
    True. When my wife and I switched from 26 HT to 29er FS, we had to adjust our climbing technique, reducing torque to prevent losing traction. I find it easier to speed up a little bit before a short climb and then remain seated, or stay seated during longer climbs. I only get out the saddle on very steep short climbs, or on the road (force of habit).

    I switched my stock Racing Ralphs 2.25 on my Anthem X1 to Specialized Ground Control 2.10, due to a sidewall puncture . That was not good. The bike had a bit better traction but overall I felt it slower, especially on the single tracks. I switched to Racing Ralphs 2.25 Snake Skin and now it feels quick again, plus the snake skins are holding up to rocks.

    I still run approximately 180 shock and 85 fork. I weigh 190. I wonder if there is something odd going on with the rear shock, so I may swap in my RP23 from my other bike.

    These were definitely longer climbs. I think I am asking alot, but I test rode the Anthem 27.5 on the same hill and I swear I was able to either sit in the 38 ring or stand and not lose traction or momentum and when I went to ride the same with my own bike, I lost traction. Now, given that the 27.5 X1 Anthem is probably lighter and given the smaller wheels and identical gearing (38-36)...it had lower overall gearing.

    I do well seated but I found I was climbing more and more standing, trying to stay faster and in the 38 rather than the granny and doing well but recently I had a bit more trouble with bite. I wondered if it was tires, riding position standing or the chainstays. I don't like to stay seated all the time, or for all climbs. I guess I wanted to start standing more. I am often amazed at how much traction I have over roots I figure should send me bouncing and spinning.

    I can't give that extra mile in the 38 on longer steeper climbs when seated because I may not be fit enough and/or its also harder on my back. A few weeks ago I was relishing climbing in the 38 and standing. I was seriously muscling my way up with my arms and legs and felt fairly fast.

    Let's rule some things out. I noticed earlier this year that standing doesn't work so well with my Anthem 29 on gravel hills in the middle ring so perhaps its not so good that way. Any bike standing can be an issue at some point, but I like being able to stand and hammer as much as possible, as an option. For now I'll defer to sitting more often and using the granny until I solve my traction issues.

    Is it possible the longer chainstays on this bike require seated climbing a little more than most?

    Could I try a shorter stem to get my weight back a bit more when standing?

    Perhaps before going 1 x I could simply try a lower big ring than the 38 and that could work better?

    I've used this stock Racing Ralph since new and I can't say I've ridden more than 35-40 times max. Average 1-3 hour rides. Could I have worn down this rear Ra Ra enough that it's bite is reduced? It doesn't look terrible.
  • 10-24-2013
    morkys
    Anybody with a Fox oem evolution CTD Fork and Shock noticed decreased performance?
    I will try to address my climbing issues with above tweaks, sitting more and also being realistic (fall here has moisture and leaves)...

    Now about my suspension issues.

    About the suspension though. There is something strange going on. It's not my brake cables or water bottle and cage vibrating. Something is vibrating or bouncing. I will check all the bolts on my bike before the next ride and change the PSI and alter/adjust the rebound setting again. The problem I am having is that the shock and/or fork performance has changed over the last month or two, and the only way I can describe it, the bike ends up shaking.

    I will check with Fox and the bike store I bought the bike from, but I was wondering if anybody else is finding a decrease in their 2013 X1 Fox oem evo fork and/or shock.
  • 11-11-2013
    Cotharyus
    Drivetrain question:

    Anyone with a 2x10 tried going to a 1x10 with a 36 tooth front ring? I've been threatening to do it, and I need a new chain and new large front ring. Wolftooth makes a 36 tooth ring that will fit the SRAM 120 BDC cranks on the 2x10, and the cost is about the same as the SRAM part. I figure I can just swap the rings out and see how it works, if I like it, and can look at dropping the small ring and the shifter, and using the FD as a guide until I upgrade/replace/wear out the RD and/or cassette and upgrade those to clutch and 11 speed.
  • 11-12-2013
    jkirkpatri
    Free bump for you, Cotharyus. I don't see an issue with your plan. The 2x10 has great chain lines already, so replacing your 39 big ring with a 36 and dropping the granny should be pain-free. I would have done this on my bike myself, but I need the granny when it's time to pull the chute on longer rides.

    Any thoughts on trying Race Face's narrow/wide chain ring? Maybe they don't make a 120 BDC ring, but just a thought to put out there.
  • 11-12-2013
    stevland
    Quote:

    Originally Posted by Cotharyus View Post
    Drivetrain question:

    Anyone with a 2x10 tried going to a 1x10 with a 36 tooth front ring? I've been threatening to do it, and I need a new chain and new large front ring. Wolftooth makes a 36 tooth ring that will fit the SRAM 120 BDC cranks on the 2x10, and the cost is about the same as the SRAM part. I figure I can just swap the rings out and see how it works, if I like it, and can look at dropping the small ring and the shifter, and using the FD as a guide until I upgrade/replace/wear out the RD and/or cassette and upgrade those to clutch and 11 speed.

    Renthal makes a 36t 120bcd. You have to run a chainguide with it. i made the switch right as narrow-wide was making it's debut and I still haven't seen any of those in a 120.
    If you can snag a wolfcreek in 120, that would be the preferred setup.
  • 11-12-2013
    Cotharyus
    Quote:

    Originally Posted by stevland View Post
    Renthal makes a 36t 120bcd. You have to run a chainguide with it. i made the switch right as narrow-wide was making it's debut and I still haven't seen any of those in a 120.
    If you can snag a wolfcreek in 120, that would be the preferred setup.

    120 BCD x 36T Chainrings | wolftoothcomponents.com

    That's the ticket as far as I'm concerned. I checked RaceFace and they don't make a 120 BDC. I'd likely keep the FD on as a "guide" until I replace the RD with a type 2, when I break or wear out the X7 that's there.
  • 11-20-2013
    morkys
    I have contemplated this myself. I won't do it without going down to a 34 or 32 front chainring. I am also thinking of going with a 42 year cog or a General Lee adapter for Shimano or SRAM. I think that is the ultimate way to go 1 x 10.
  • 11-20-2013
    GT5050
    I had a 1x10 setup on my Anthem previously, but before the narrow/wide chainring thing came along so I had to run an MRP guide that I had to space out to work with the Shimano chainline. I found the 34t chainring to be ideal for my riding, so much so that going back to a 38/26 combo felt awkward at first as I was rarely in the middle of the cassette with range either direction like I was with the 34. Went back because my guide broke. Anyway, got my Raceface narrow/wide and XT Shadow+ waiting for me at the shop for when I get back from a work trip. It's also good for some weight savings, a fair bit actually.

    In fact, now that I have my Mavic SLR's on, my X1 size medium is surprisingly svelte. The only other thing I've got that's not stock is an Easton carbon bar. Current weight is 26.1. Measured several times. I expect, with the weight I've saved before going to 1x, that when I do go back it'll get me between 25.2-25.4. Not bad for a full suspension aluminum 29er.

  • 11-21-2013
    Cotharyus
    Nice. It sounds more and more like I'm going to try this. My other ride being a single speed, I'm not afraid of the 36 tooth front, especially not now that I'm away of the General Lee adaptor, should I need that (thanks Morkys).
  • 12-07-2013
    GT5050
    2013 Anthem X 29er anybody?
    Well, just to update, I've converted to 1x10 by using a Raceface 34t narrow wide chainring, Shimano XT shadow+ rear derailleur, and no chain guide. Several rides, all kinds of trails, roots, jumps, etc.

    No issues at all, not even a hint of wanting to drop a chain, and the clutch derailleur keeps things quiet too! Weight now of my bike is 25.3lbs. Size medium.
  • 12-08-2013
    Placek
    How about spacers - were any needed when swapping from 2x10 to 1x10?
    Asing because i've alreasy ordered "narrow/wide" and want to do proper setup.
  • 12-08-2013
    Anthem1
    A little late to the party but I built my Advanced up this summer as a 1 x 10 with a bling ring on a set of X0 cranks and a e13 xcx guide. Last month I went all in and mounted a wolftooth 36T direct mount and dropped the guide with a standard non type 2 X0 shorty, results have been perfect.
  • 12-08-2013
    GT5050
    2013 Anthem X 29er anybody?
    Quote:

    Originally Posted by Placek View Post
    How about spacers - were any needed when swapping from 2x10 to 1x10?
    Asing because i've alreasy ordered "narrow/wide" and want to do proper setup.

    Not sure where you are referring to, but I used no spacers anywhere
  • 12-08-2013
    Lefty2341
    Just purchased 2014 Anthem Advanced 29er. Doing an XT swapout for X01 (1x11) components. Keeping XT Brakes. Swapping on Crest Rims w/ Maxxis IKONs. Pics to come.......
  • 12-09-2013
    Placek
    Quote:

    Originally Posted by GT5050 View Post
    Not sure where you are referring to, but I used no spacers anywhere

    This is what i meant. Now i'm having XT 2x10 crankset and was wondering if any spacers are needed when placing 1x10 narrow/wide. If no than just simple swap.
  • 12-09-2013
    Cotharyus
    Ok, I've got a couple of rides on this setup now, so here it is.

    I dropped the small chain ring, replaced the large 39 tooth with the wolftooth 36 tooth narrow/wide, and picked up a type 2 X9 that was being blown out online, so that was an unexpected bonus. So far, this has been a zero issue change up. The switch was easy, no chain guide, no FD, and no drops yet. The gear range has worked for me so far, but I'm heading for Reddish Knob later this month, so that will tell the tail for sure.
  • 12-15-2013
    Cotharyus
    Anyone put a 2.4" tire on the rear of an Anthem? Is there enough clearance for it? I'm running short on tires and time, and it's time for this RaRa to go. All I have laying around is a Conti Mountain King 2.4.
  • 12-15-2013
    ha-evolution
    Yup had an Ardent 2.4 on the rear of my AX29er for winter riding until I got my fat bike - worked just fine.
  • 12-15-2013
    morkys
    I just logged on here to ask a similar question. I want to try larger tires for more cush and traction. Mainly more cush for my low back.

    The AX29'er doesn't appear to have lots of room in back with the RaRa 2.25. I'd like to try a 2.3/2.35 to 2.4 Schwalbe or other. I seldom ride in mud, but can't always avoid all of the mud all the time.

    Cotharyus,

    Searching, I found this. Not sure if the rear triangle design is 100% identical for years 2011-2013 but here is what I found:

    http://forums.mtbr.com/giant/2011-an...th-746947.html

    For a little more feedback from others...

    Thanks ha-evolution for telling us what fit on your bike. For you and anyone else running a tire 2.35 or 2.4, how is the fit? Is there much room left for mud or wheel warp? Anybody have any pictures of their AX29 with a larger rear tire than stock?

    The Fox and RS forks look like they can fit larger tires. What have you used on the front?
  • 12-15-2013
    Portland PA Rider
    Quote:

    Originally Posted by Cotharyus View Post
    Anyone put a 2.4" tire on the rear of an Anthem? Is there enough clearance for it? I'm running short on tires and time, and it's time for this RaRa to go. All I have laying around is a Conti Mountain King 2.4.

    I have a Conti 2.4 on the rear of mine. No problem!
  • 12-15-2013
    ha-evolution
    I don't recall any clearance problems at all. It was a tighter fit but worked fine.
  • 12-15-2013
    BacDoc
    I've run Racing Ralph 2.4 (arch ex wheel) on the rear of my 2013 Anthem advanced 29 with no clearance issues but don't ride mud.
  • 12-15-2013
    morkys
    Quote:

    Originally Posted by BacDoc View Post
    I've run Racing Ralph 2.4 (arch ex wheel) on the rear of my 2013 Anthem advanced 29 with no clearance issues but don't ride mud.

    This is good to hear as the 2.35 Racing Ralph or Nob Nic are the main >2.25 options I had in mind.
  • 12-16-2013
    Cotharyus
    Nice. Thanks guys, I'm going to mount up this tire and go with it then. It worked well up front for a little while last year, but I pulled it when I converted stuff over to tubeless. That conti has a sidewall like a sieve. Sealant just drips out of it. I'm going to tube this one for now and put some thought into my next rear tire.
  • 12-16-2013
    BacDoc
    Quote:

    Originally Posted by morkys View Post
    This is good to hear as the 2.35 Racing Ralph or Nob Nic are the main >2.25 options I had in mind.

    Morkys,
    You should consider the Maxxis Ikon 2.35, it's a big volume tire that I've run on the rear with plenty of room to spare. This tire feels a little more plush as a rear as it rides better at lower pressure than the Ralph. With the Ralph, there is a fine line between just rite and squirmy and feeling the rim. With the Ikon I was surprised at how low I could go without feeling the rim. Slight weight penalty with the ikon but thicker side wall and cushier ride that still rolls fast.

    Also, when your fork/shock needs service have it tuned by Push or Suspension Experts and you (and your back) will be amazed at the performance. They will get the the most out of the Fox gear.
  • 12-28-2013
    eddiebaby
    Hi guys,
    Does anyone know if the 2013 Anthem 29 alloy is drilled for a Reverb Stealth?

    thanks
  • 12-28-2013
    Silentfoe
    No. Not specifically.
  • 12-28-2013
    gvs_nz
    Quote:

    Originally Posted by morkys View Post
    I just logged on here to ask a similar question. I want to try larger tires for more cush and traction. Mainly more cush for my low back.

    The AX29'er doesn't appear to have lots of room in back with the RaRa 2.25. I'd like to try a 2.3/2.35 to 2.4 Schwalbe or other. I seldom ride in mud, but can't always avoid all of the mud all the time.

    Cotharyus,

    Searching, I found this. Not sure if the rear triangle design is 100% identical for years 2011-2013 but here is what I found:

    http://forums.mtbr.com/giant/2011-an...th-746947.html

    For a little more feedback from others...

    Thanks ha-evolution for telling us what fit on your bike. For you and anyone else running a tire 2.35 or 2.4, how is the fit? Is there much room left for mud or wheel warp? Anybody have any pictures of their AX29 with a larger rear tire than stock?

    The Fox and RS forks look like they can fit larger tires. What have you used on the front?

    You don't get a lot if any more cush going from a 2.25 to a 2.35/2.4 Ra Ra. Tire casing has as much to do with cush as anything.Geax and Michelins ride pretty smooth out the rear in a 2.2, 2.25 size. In some cases the larger volume tire bounce more. In a 2.4 the xking racesport would be my fav. Tall but narrow but I wouldn't give it the nod for much extra cush in the rear. The Ra Ra 2.25/2.4 is noticeably slower on smooth terrain.Different story again when comparing tires up front. there is usually a more distinct cush from the bigger casing. not always though. A ro ro 2.25 rides smoother than a 2.35 Ra Ra up front. It would be the smoothest front tire I've ever used.

    You'll find your lower back takes a hit on seated g outs more than anything. in which case tirs make very lttle difference. i do a lot of seated marathon rides on my ax and I've got it to ride very nicely seated over G outs. It actaully feels as good in that situation as my 130mm Kona satori.
    Run good amounts of sag, 12 to 14 mm[ ride a FSR in comparison if you think 30% + sag is too much for the AX] I set my bikes up so I can just about use all my travel when you doing 10 to 15 MPH seated over a big dip[g out]. you will use as much or more travel then as you ever will satanding descending. On a seated g out high speed comp damping does not kick in much.
    Run a 27.2 carbon seat post and a shim like a USE seatpost shim. The carbon seat post will give you loads more compliance over this sort of terrain than tires. It feels like it adds at least another 20mm more travel and takes out that sudden jolt. I couldn't ride a 29er carbon hardtail without one.
    If you lock out the rear shock on smooth climbs you will get some bob though.
  • 12-28-2013
    eddiebaby
    Quote:

    Originally Posted by Silentfoe View Post
    No. Not specifically.

    Thanks.
  • 02-13-2014
    morkys
    Quote:

    Originally Posted by gvs_nz View Post
    You don't get a lot if any more cush going from a 2.25 to a 2.35/2.4 Ra Ra. Tire casing has as much to do with cush as anything.Geax and Michelins ride pretty smooth out the rear in a 2.2, 2.25 size. In some cases the larger volume tire bounce more. In a 2.4 the xking racesport would be my fav. Tall but narrow but I wouldn't give it the nod for much extra cush in the rear. The Ra Ra 2.25/2.4 is noticeably slower on smooth terrain.Different story again when comparing tires up front. there is usually a more distinct cush from the bigger casing. not always though. A ro ro 2.25 rides smoother than a 2.35 Ra Ra up front. It would be the smoothest front tire I've ever used.

    You'll find your lower back takes a hit on seated g outs more than anything. in which case tirs make very lttle difference. i do a lot of seated marathon rides on my ax and I've got it to ride very nicely seated over G outs. It actaully feels as good in that situation as my 130mm Kona satori.
    Run good amounts of sag, 12 to 14 mm[ ride a FSR in comparison if you think 30% + sag is too much for the AX] I set my bikes up so I can just about use all my travel when you doing 10 to 15 MPH seated over a big dip[g out]. you will use as much or more travel then as you ever will satanding descending. On a seated g out high speed comp damping does not kick in much.
    Run a 27.2 carbon seat post and a shim like a USE seatpost shim. The carbon seat post will give you loads more compliance over this sort of terrain than tires. It feels like it adds at least another 20mm more travel and takes out that sudden jolt. I couldn't ride a 29er carbon hardtail without one.
    If you lock out the rear shock on smooth climbs you will get some bob though.

    Ok. I will consider what you say about tires. I may just stick with the one's I have in the end. I ordered the Morgaw seat with the rubber bushings, so that could be nice with a carbon seatpost.
  • 02-13-2014
    gvs_nz
    I find any with a flexible shell lke SDG work well. Easton 27.2 posts have a nice firm but compliant feel to them. I use the USE seat shim and a 27.2 post.
    USE Thermoplastic Shim | Chain Reaction Cycles

    The FSA had a bit too much flex.A 30.9 post gives you some flex . Just a matter of how much you want and whats too much. Maybe try a few Ebay ones first.ust watch you get enough setback if you need it. Cheaper than a new bike though.

    Easton EC70 Seatpost 27 2 Carbon New | eBay
  • 04-25-2014
    morkys
    Improving climbing.
    First ride of the year and again I'm noticing the trouble I have climbing out of the saddle. My tire could be worn after last year, but looking at it, I don't think it's worn enough to put all the blame on the tire. Climbing in the saddle is very good, it's only out of the saddle I start to lose traction more often than I would like. We're talking lose terrain here with some small rocks and roots. My only other issue is the front fork vibration, but otherwise, the bike works well.

    I'm wondering if the 18.2" long chainstays really are playing a big part. Perhaps as I stand up I lean forward and my weight goes too far from the rear wheel to the front wheel. Other bikes have shorter stays:

    Trance X 29 has 17.8"
    Niner Jet Nine and SC Tallboy LT 17.9"
    SC Tallboy having 17.5"
    KHS Prescott 17.7"
    Trek Superfly is 17.8
    Spec Epic = 17.28" (!)

    Without giving up on this platform, I am thinking of trying a slightly shorter stem to keep my weight back a bit more when standing. With my back, it's ok if I am a bit more upright. I am also going to try a more aggressive, possibly larger rear tire, but hopefully not too heavy and reasonably low rolling resistance. For comparison, I will try my 26" Brodie Mettle FS bike (with 26" tires and also with 650b) and see how climbing goes. I'll review tire suggestions in this thread and elsewhere.

    I am not at home right now to measure the stem.
    How long is the stock stem? My bike is a 13 AX29 Medium.
  • 04-25-2014
    Silentfoe
    It's all about technique. This bike is a seated climber. If you want to climb standing, you need to adjust yourself. No stem change is going to fix that.
  • 04-26-2014
    morkys
    Quote:

    Originally Posted by Silentfoe View Post
    It's all about technique. This bike is a seated climber. If you want to climb standing, you need to adjust yourself. No stem change is going to fix that.

    I'm sure technique is a big part of it. I'm wondering how my other bike climbs in comparison.

    Where do you ride, what terrain? What tire do you use on the rear?
  • 04-26-2014
    morkys
    Does your Fox EVO CTD fork flex/vibrate under braking?
    I can fine tune or improve my and this bikes climbing abilities, but I am finding that the fork may have issues that are a bigger concern to me at the moment.

    My bike is a 13 AX29 medium with stock parts except for XT brakes and a 180 mm front rotor.

    Last year after riding my bike for a few months, after I had the front fox fork serviced for a CTD control malfunction, I thought the front forks performance was bad because it was vibrating on downhills. I am almost certain I only noticed this after I sent the fork in to have it fixed.

    On my first ride this year, I paid particularly close attention to the fork on downhills and I now realize that the fork is not "jack-hammering". Instead, I notice that under braking, the front end seems to be vibrating fore and aft. It feels like it's flexing front to back repeatedly. This vibration causes my brake and shifter cables to vibrate in a regular way. It happens when I go down hills. It does not seem as though it has to be bumpy for the fork to vibrate the way it does.

    Does anybody else have a problem with their Fox EVO CTD fork vibrating fore and aft under braking?

    I am going to compare with my other bike which is a 26" FS with different Fox forks and different Deore brakes. I have checked the Giants headset and it seems like it was adjusted properly, although I re-adjusted it again to be sure. I looked at the disc surface and the pad is not wearing on the rotor spokes. My brakes do squeel a bit. I can look at the calipers closer to see if anything un-usual is happening. I wonder if something else changed during the service Fox did that causes this fore/aft vibration.

    thanks in advance for any feedback
  • 04-26-2014
    Innota
    I have the 2013 Anthem with the Fox fork as well. I experience some vibration while braking, but I thought that it was related to the brakes themselves. I still have the Elixirs (which I think are excellent by the way), and I thought that the problem was with them. But if you experience the same problem as me with XT brakes then I'm not so sure anymore...
  • 04-26-2014
    morkys
    I wonder if it's the fork by design or a faulty part, or faster than normal wear of internals parts like the bushings. It almost seems like a resonating situation.

    Have you always noticed the front end vibration while braking?
  • 04-26-2014
    Innota
    No, it started quite recently.
  • 04-29-2014
    Jfondell
    I bought a new X3 at the begingingof the season, so far I have upgraded everything except the shocks. Running full XO 2x10 setup,XT brakes, SunRingle wheels. Looking to upgrade the shocks front and rear. What Rock Shox combination do you guys recommend? What size is the rear shock? I am 6"2 and weigh 230 with all gear on. Mostly XC rides

    Thanks
  • 04-29-2014
    plupp
    If you are going RS, go for the Monarch XX and SID XX and add dual sprint remote. If not, go for the new Fox Factory

    Shock is 165x38.
  • 04-29-2014
    bikensand
    Quote:

    Originally Posted by morkys View Post
    I wonder if it's the fork by design or a faulty part, or faster than normal wear of internals parts like the bushings. It almost seems like a resonating situation.

    Have you always noticed the front end vibration while braking?

    You guys may want to try taking your rotors off and sanding them down to resurface them and change brake pads. The vibration you're describing sounds like problem with the front brake, possibly from contaminated brake pads. From my experience, the vibration is a pretty common characteristic in Avid brakes; not so much in XT brakes (though I have heard mine howling a bit lately). At least that would be a relatively inexpensive way to narrow down the problem and won't take you off your bike, like it would if you had to send your fork in, just to have them tell you nothing is wrong with it.
  • 04-29-2014
    morkys
    Good idea. I have a spare 160 mm rotor and shimano pads I can swap in just for trouble shooting purposes.
  • 07-26-2014
    Innota
    Does anyone know if the rear XT derailleur is a long or medium (or something else) cage?
  • 07-27-2014
    Cotharyus
    By rights, it should be a medium cage. Generally the defining rule is a 3x uses a long cage, 2x uses medium, and 1x uses short.
  • 07-27-2014
    GT5050
    2013 Anthem X 29er anybody?
    Quote:

    Originally Posted by Innota View Post
    Does anyone know if the rear XT derailleur is a long or medium (or something else) cage?

    Mine (2x10) 2013 AX1 was long cage