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  1. #201
    davidcarson48
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    Quote Originally Posted by strangedezign View Post
    The only thing I don't like about the 2013 AX1 is the paint job. Is it better in person?
    I think the Anthem X 1 looks great in person, but not everyone who has seen it agrees. Personal preference, obviously.

  2. #202
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    Quote Originally Posted by davidcarson48 View Post
    I think the Anthem X 1 looks great in person, but not everyone who has seen it agrees. Personal preference, obviously.
    Opinions of the bike in person can vary, but there is one thing for sure...the picture on the website is a bit misleading. The yellow accents you see on the Giant website picture are somewhat neon, sort of pastel like, as are the grey parts, but in person, or even in photo's, the yellow looks better, it looks sharper. It may be the pure white background on the website, but either way, its a relief that the yellow looks snappier in person, rather than the glowy look on the website. Even my photos don't show the real look you see in person because it was night in my house and I used a flash.

  3. #203
    davidcarson48
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    Re: 2013 Anthem X 29er anybody?

    Quote Originally Posted by morkys View Post
    Opinions of the bike in person can vary, but there is one thing for sure...the picture on the website is a bit misleading. The yellow accents you see on the Giant website picture are somewhat neon, sort of pastel like, as are the grey parts, but in person, or even in photo's, the yellow looks better, it looks sharper. It may be the pure white background on the website, but either way, its a relief that the yellow looks snappier in person, rather than the glowy look on the website. Even my photos don't show the real look you see in person because it was night in my house and I used a flash.
    Yep, I agree. It looks great in natural light.

  4. #204
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    I got the 2013 Anthem X 1 just three weeks ago here in Puerto Rico. It looks great! The yellow makes a nice contrast with the black, and the grey gives the illusion of raw aluminum. I get nothing but compliments on my ride. But the most important thing is the performance of the bike. This bike wants to go fast. On the flats, you hammer on the pedals and it responds. It climbs like a goat, and it has enabled me to climb technical sections where my 26er was ready to bail and send me to the ground. But this bike excels on the descends. It makes trails filled with roots, loose gravel, and rocks (all combined) feel like paved road. The Maestro suspension works well with the Fox CTD shocks. Definitely an XC feeling, not a trail bike feeling. The only modification I have done is swapping grips to specialized contour grips. The bike had a weight of 28 lbs for a size L, and right now stands at 29 lbs with basic shimano SPD pedals and plastic bottle cage. But don't let the weight fool you, it is a quick bike and handles extremely well on single tracks. I really recommend it, and I think is best to go for the complete bike and the X1 model.

  5. #205
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    I'm pretty much sold on the color of the X1, but I'm wondering if I should save some money and go with the X2 since I would be swapping out the wheelset and brakes anyway. I could use the $500 difference to upgrade the drivetrain. Do you think the Fox CTD is that much of an upgrade over the Rockshox suspension?

  6. #206
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    I have no experience with the Reba/Monarch, but I have heard from others that the performance is similar. In fact, the X0 women's model comes with Reba and Monarch. The X1 and X2 have the same frame and Maestro suspension, so both sets of shocks should do the job. It makes sense to go X2 if you plan on swapping brakes and wheels (they are heavy). Make sure you swap shifters and front derailleur. I would stick to a 2x10 drivetrain, which is easier and crisper than 3x10 (I had 42/32/22). The thing to note is whether you want 39/26 (as in the X2) or 38/24 (as in the X1). 38/24 is great, and I always find the right gear. I have heard from others that 26 is too heavy for quickly passing steep, technical climbs. Of course, it depends on your skills and physical condition ...

  7. #207
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    Re: 2013 Anthem X 29er anybody?

    Quote Originally Posted by strangedezign View Post
    I'm pretty much sold on the color of the X1, but I'm wondering if I should save some money and go with the X2 since I would be swapping out the wheelset and brakes anyway. I could use the $500 difference to upgrade the drivetrain. Do you think the Fox CTD is that much of an upgrade over the Rockshox suspension?
    Go with the X2 and upgrade the parts you want and save some cash. I'm glad Manuel likes his bike with the Fox CTD stuff but IMO the bike rides better with Rock Shox. A new wheel upgrade and a switch to tubeless will be awesome. Good luck!
    I'm a mountain bike guide in South West Utah

  8. #208
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    I chose the X1 because I prefer starting with as much bicycle as I can afford and the X1 came lighter than the X2 to start with. It's light enough that I won't bother upgrading the wheels for a while. Also, I prefer the 24/38 gearing and as for the fork and shocks, I hear the FOX are a bit more compliant, cushy and the RS are a bit more firm and race oriented, and that is fine with me for my back and knees. All I need is to personalize saddle and handlebar width/choice, and consider a CTD remote (although this looks like a problem upon researching). I will try the saddle on there, but I usually really like saddles with a gap in the centre.

    My AX 29'er came with 2.25 Racing Ralph which I think is a good size, but I'm wondering about bigger tires. It doesn't look like there is an aweful lot of room for larger tires. I am ok with 2.25 or similar tires, but I am curious, are any AX 29'er owners running larger tires? What is the largest tire people are running?
    Last edited by morkys; 03-07-2013 at 09:59 AM.

  9. #209
    davidcarson48
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    Quote Originally Posted by strangedezign View Post
    I'm pretty much sold on the color of the X1, but I'm wondering if I should save some money and go with the X2 since I would be swapping out the wheelset and brakes anyway. I could use the $500 difference to upgrade the drivetrain. Do you think the Fox CTD is that much of an upgrade over the Rockshox suspension?
    No, I don't think the Fox bits are much of an upgrade. Just different. The Fox will be more plush, the RS more firm and racy.

    If you are swapping out the wheelset and brakes, the X 2 may make more sense. Although the SLX drivetrain on the X 1 is far better than the SRAM X5 stuff, it's certainly not worth $500.

  10. #210
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    Does the drivetrain make the X1 lighter? Are the brakes heavier on the X2? Ok performance though?

    I am sure I will eventually build myself an upgraded (lighter) set of wheels for my X1 so then my bike will be even lighter still. Again, the X1 was set up the way I liked. Drivetrain and shocks I like and it's lighter so maybe I spend more than I should have, but oh well...I am ok with what I got for the most part. Although the fork and shock may not be the absolute best, but should be ok.

  11. #211
    davidcarson48
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    I'm sure the SLX/XT bits are a little lighter than the X7/X5 mix. Then add a little bit for the cockpit items, a little bit for the brakes, and a little bit in the rims. Oh and a lighter saddle on the X 1. Add all of them up and you have a bike that's probably a pound lighter overall.

    Again, if you are going to change out the wheelset, saddle, and brakes anyways, it doesn't really matter. If you are going to run the bike totally stock, than MAYBE it's worth considering.

    The brakes on both the X 1 and X 2 are "ok". You may be lucky and be happy with them. But there are alot of complaints on them as well.

    The Fox stuff isn't bad, it's just different. Are you planning on racing? If not, than the Fox stuff will work great for trail rides. I ride the Advanced 1 and my buddy rides the Aluminium X 1 and we both have fun on the trails. My bike is lighter and rides more firmly, but he loves his just as much as I love mine.

  12. #212
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    The rims on the X1 are lighter than the X2? I didn't see that in the specs, but I see now they are different. The Advanced comes with even lighter rims I see.

    I didn't research enough and the evolution (non-trail adjust) forks and non-remote rear shock aren't what I would have wanted. I may swap/sell the rear shock for the remote capable shock. The evolution fork doesn't have the three trail modes, but it can at least be modded to accept the remote. The rear evo shock cannot. I may have to swap a few things around, but at least not many. Also, I may upgrade my wheels, but except for the remote option, I don't plan to do anything to my bike for at least a year/season. I may "race" it eventually, but I am sure the FOX stuff can be raced, even if they aren't the best. The RS stuff on the X2 probably isn't the equal of the Advanced. There's always better parts.

    Does anybody know if the stock shocks on the X1 are valved / tuned specific by Fox for the Giant AX 29'er frame? What happens if you order a Factory CTD rear shock?

  13. #213
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    One question morkys: have you done any extensive riding on the X1 yet? I wanted to have the remote, but the more I ride the less I feel I need it. Here is my impression so far on the fox CTD shocks/fork:

    1) Climb - I only use it when riding on the road on my way to the trail. Virtually no pedaling bob (it's not a hardtail ... ).

    2) Trail - I use it most of the time on the trails I ride, whether it is single track, fire roads, or an XC race course with sudden climbs followed by quick descends, tight turns, roots, etc. If it gets a bit complex, I set the Descend only on the fork to get a more plush feeling on the front of the bike.

    3) Descend - Only used on moderate downhills (don't do any stunts), or in technical terrain with climbs that require going over rocks and use of the 24T front ring.

    So, I ride most of the time on trail mode. So far, the folks on the hardtails have not dropped me. I don't think the Fox CTD will make your ride slow.

  14. #214
    davidcarson48
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    Re: 2013 Anthem X 29er anybody?

    Quote Originally Posted by morkys View Post
    The rims on the X1 are lighter than the X2? I didn't see that in the specs, but I see now they are different. The Advanced comes with even lighter rims I see.

    I didn't research enough and the evolution (non-trail adjust) forks and non-remote rear shock aren't what I would have wanted. I may swap/sell the rear shock for the remote capable shock. The evolution fork doesn't have the three trail modes, but it can at least be modded to accept the remote. The rear evo shock cannot. I may have to swap a few things around, but at least not many. Also, I may upgrade my wheels, but except for the remote option, I don't plan to do anything to my bike for at least a year/season. I may "race" it eventually, but I am sure the FOX stuff can be raced, even if they aren't the best. The RS stuff on the X2 probably isn't the equal of the Advanced. There's always better parts.

    Does anybody know if the stock shocks on the X1 are valved / tuned specific by Fox for the Giant AX 29'er frame? What happens if you order a Factory CTD rear shock?
    Yes, the rims on the two bikes are slightly different. X2 being slightly heavier. The hubs are the same.

    Yes, the Advanced 1 has a totally different wheelset than the Aluminum bikes. Much lighter, straight pull spokes, and hubs with DT internals. Also tubeless ready (although the bikes you are looking at do convert reliably enough).

    Yes, the Advanced 1 RS fork is stiffer and lighter than the X2, but the X2 is still valved more firmly than the X1.

    I have zero interest in having remotes, so I'm no help there.

  15. #215
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    Quote Originally Posted by manuelr417 View Post
    One question morkys: have you done any extensive riding on the X1 yet? I wanted to have the remote, but the more I ride the less I feel I need it. Here is my impression so far on the fox CTD shocks/fork:

    1) Climb - I only use it when riding on the road on my way to the trail. Virtually no pedaling bob (it's not a hardtail ... ).

    2) Trail - I use it most of the time on the trails I ride, whether it is single track, fire roads, or an XC race course with sudden climbs followed by quick descends, tight turns, roots, etc. If it gets a bit complex, I set the Descend only on the fork to get a more plush feeling on the front of the bike.

    3) Descend - Only used on moderate downhills (don't do any stunts), or in technical terrain with climbs that require going over rocks and use of the 24T front ring.

    So, I ride most of the time on trail mode. So far, the folks on the hardtails have not dropped me. I don't think the Fox CTD will make your ride slow.
    Excellent feedback. Much appreciated.

    So you did not get the remote and feel less and less interested in it as you ride your bike more and more?

    You obviously have the evo fork and therefore do not have the 3 extra trail slow speed compression settings?
    How is the performance of the fork in general? You don't miss the Trails extra 3 slow speed compression settings of the Factory fork?

    I have done zero riding. I bought the bike at the Spring Bicycle show, rode it home from the train on the road.

    Sounds a little like 3 pro-pedal settings instead of 4, where they are spread out more. As in, the Descent mode is more like Pro-Pedal OFF.

    The Climb function for the road sounds great. I used my RLC 32 and RP23 like that, except that I was able to fine tune the lockout. It doesn't sound like you can do that with the Climb mode. Also sounds like the Climb mode can never equate to full lockout like I got with the RLC32, but then again, it sounds like it's still good enough that people find it works for the road. I hope to ride from my house up to Durham Forest this year and that means 40 min to an hour on the road, so that is definitely useful.

    Quote Originally Posted by davidcarson48 View Post
    Yes, the rims on the two bikes are slightly different. X2 being slightly heavier. The hubs are the same.

    Yes, the Advanced 1 has a totally different wheelset than the Aluminum bikes. Much lighter, straight pull spokes, and hubs with DT internals. Also tubeless ready (although the bikes you are looking at do convert reliably enough).

    Yes, the Advanced 1 RS fork is stiffer and lighter than the X2, but the X2 is still valved more firmly than the X1.

    I have zero interest in having remotes, so I'm no help there.
    Good info and feedback.

    If I could have afforded it, I would have figured out a way to get an Advanced 1. I would never spend the $8K for the Advanced Zero, but in Canada, I don't see the Advanced 1 available for us here.

    Again, if the RS shocks are valved more firmly than the Fox Float equipment I have, that's ok. Besides, I am fine to tweak.

    I understand not wanting a remote because it's added weight and complexity etc. I always thought about putting one on my Brodie Mettle with its RLC 32 and RP23 but I never did and I basically use the lockout and propedal exactly as manuelr417 states...for road going. With this setup, I simply wanted to try it out with a remote to see how I liked it.

    I also noticed that somebody in the Shocks and Suspension forum commented in the "Adding a remote to a Fox CTD shock" thread that once you add the remote to the fork, you lose the 3 trail adjustments. That seems odd.

    One thing's for sure, with a lot of time and ingenuity, a custom remote setup could be macgyvered (custom homemade).

  16. #216
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    Quote Originally Posted by morkys View Post
    Excellent feedback. Much appreciated.

    So you did not get the remote and feel less and less interested in it as you ride your bike more and more?

    You obviously have the evo fork and therefore do not have the 3 extra trail slow speed compression settings?
    How is the performance of the fork in general? You don't miss the Trails extra 3 slow speed compression settings of the Factory fork?

    I have done zero riding. I bought the bike at the Spring Bicycle show, rode it home from the train on the road.

    Sounds a little like 3 pro-pedal settings instead of 4, where they are spread out more. As in, the Descent mode is more like Pro-Pedal OFF.

    The Climb function for the road sounds great. I used my RLC 32 and RP23 like that, except that I was able to fine tune the lockout. It doesn't sound like you can do that with the Climb mode. Also sounds like the Climb mode can never equate to full lockout like I got with the RLC32, but then again, it sounds like it's still good enough that people find it works for the road. I hope to ride from my house up to Durham Forest this year and that means 40 min to an hour on the road, so that is definitely useful.



    Good info and feedback.

    If I could have afforded it, I would have figured out a way to get an Advanced 1. I would never spend the $8K for the Advanced Zero, but in Canada, I don't see the Advanced 1 available for us here.

    Again, if the RS shocks are valved more firmly than the Fox Float equipment I have, that's ok. Besides, I am fine to tweak.

    I understand not wanting a remote because it's added weight and complexity etc. I always thought about putting one on my Brodie Mettle with its RLC 32 and RP23 but I never did and I basically use the lockout and propedal exactly as manuelr417 states...for road going. With this setup, I simply wanted to try it out with a remote to see how I liked it.

    I also noticed that somebody in the Shocks and Suspension forum commented in the "Adding a remote to a Fox CTD shock" thread that once you add the remote to the fork, you lose the 3 trail adjustments. That seems odd.

    One thing's for sure, with a lot of time and ingenuity, a custom remote setup could be macgyvered (custom homemade).
    I have the evolution ctd fork and the basic ctd shock. There are only 3 settings on each.The factory models have 3 extra settings when you run on trail mode, to make the trail mode more firm or more plush. The remote cannot handle these three settings. Honestly, I wanted the remote at first, but as I kept on riding I realized I was better off leaving the suspension alone to do its job. So the remote became a non-issue. I think you should not be too concern with this remote stuff. Hit some trails when you get the chance and you will see why this bike has won so many good reviews.

  17. #217
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    Fair enough. It's just an annoying distraction. You get a feature called CTD and yet you can't fully use it remotely, even if you want to add something later. I guess the three slow speed compression settings for the trail mode are nice but probably not that big a deal. I just figured because you don't have variable compression dampening adjust like on the older forks, it would be nice to have at least 3 settings, but it seems coarse enough not to matter. I wouldn't be surprised if I had the 3 trail settings and left it in the middle. Of course I then came across Boost Valve and that sounds like more expense for diminishing gains. Ok, thanks again for the feedback.

  18. #218
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    Quote Originally Posted by manuelr417 View Post
    One question morkys: have you done any extensive riding on the X1 yet? I wanted to have the remote, but the more I ride the less I feel I need it. Here is my impression so far on the fox CTD shocks/fork:

    1) Climb - I only use it when riding on the road on my way to the trail. Virtually no pedaling bob (it's not a hardtail ... ).

    2) Trail - I use it most of the time on the trails I ride, whether it is single track, fire roads, or an XC race course with sudden climbs followed by quick descends, tight turns, roots, etc. If it gets a bit complex, I set the Descend only on the fork to get a more plush feeling on the front of the bike.

    3) Descend - Only used on moderate downhills (don't do any stunts), or in technical terrain with climbs that require going over rocks and use of the 24T front ring.

    So, I ride most of the time on trail mode. So far, the folks on the hardtails have not dropped me. I don't think the Fox CTD will make your ride slow.
    Another quick question about the CTD. Do you find the Climb mode is effective? Does it work on some bumps and yet avoid pedal bob? I have heard the opposite from some folks. Doesn't react to bumps but has some pedal bob.

    While I would like to just go ahead and ride it, I find this CTD stuff a step backwards. With my previous fork, a 32 RLC, I had all I needed. Slow speed compression and rebound adjustment which I fiddled with enabling me to fine tune my regular performance. For road or long smooth climbs I used the lockout, which I could adjust the threshold of. Quite frankly I find this new setup less tunable. Yes, I will eventually try it out, but I don't understand why I have lost a complete lockout, and adjustable lockout, and also lost low speed compression adjustment.

  19. #219
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    Since I won't be riding this bike in a while, I am second guessing my choice based on the suspension. I am find to upgrade the front rotor to bigger and see if I like the brakes, but the suspension isn't looking like what I thought it would be. The trouble is, swapping out the Fox Evo for the Factory forks and shocks only gives me 3 trails settings, the Kashima and the "FIT" technology. I am wondering if I should just forget it and ride it as is, or change the fork and shock to the Factory parts, or say the older RLC 100 fork and an RP23 if I could find them, or swap for rock shox parts. Whatever I did, it would probably be expensive. I was thinking I may inquire if I can add the 3 trail settings to the Evo fork much like you can add the lockout parts. The rear shock is easy enough to swap/sell/trade for something else if I need to, but the fork is a bigger concern. It's a potentially very costly swap.

    This is one thing that is annoying about the Giant AX 29'er lineup. It's all RS except the X1 aluminum bike. The X4 has a recon. The X2 has a Reba RL and the Advanced 2 has the Reba RL the Advanced 1 has the SID RL and the 0 has the SID RCT3. And the rear shocks very from the Monarch R to the RL to the RT3. In the US the Advanced frame comes with the RT3 rear shock and the Alum frame comes with the RL. So the Fox fork and shock on the X1 is a weird anomaly. I don't know about other years.

    I wish you could special order which fork and shock came on a particular model. Same would be nice for wheels, but I'm talking suspension here. Sure, there are loads of different parts like drivetrain etc, but it would be nice to special order suspension and wheels. I wish I could contact Giant and ask to swap the fork and shock for the RS bits that are on the Advanced 1 at least. If I try to do that myself, the buying and selling will add quite a bit of cost to my new bike.
    Last edited by morkys; 03-09-2013 at 04:01 PM.

  20. #220
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    Quote Originally Posted by morkys View Post
    Since I won't be riding this bike in a while, I am second guessing my choice based on the suspension. I am find to upgrade the front rotor to bigger and see if I like the brakes, but the suspension isn't looking like what I thought it would be..
    What is it about the suspension that you are not liking?

  21. #221
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    Quote Originally Posted by strangedezign View Post
    What is it about the suspension that you are not liking?
    I don't like the lack of low speed compression adjustment and lockout threshold adjustment on the fork. Similar for the rear shock. I realize that the AX1 frame is such that bob won't be a major problem, but the CTD stuff seems like a step backwards. I'd rather have a propedal type platform on the rear shock, and a similar option up front when I need it.

    Who knows. For all it's worth, it may work fine, but I was disappointed when I found out the shortcomings of the CTD fork and shock, and particularly the Evo vs the Factory parts.

    I am making a decision now because the bike is brand new practically un-ridden so the fork and shock are virtually un-used. Once I ride it a few times, their value will go down. If I would like different suspension, I should swap it now before I use the bike next month. Brake rotors and brakes aren't a major issue. I can upgrade those as needed, but the suspension is a big expensive portion of the bike. Rear shock is not such a big deal bc I could swap it without much added cost. Even getting the Factory CTD at least adds 3 more trail settings for not much more cost, but to do that buy and sell with the fork may be more costly. I could swap the rear shock for an RP23 but some have said they like the new shock despite the CTD vs propedal, so maybe it would be better with the 3 trail settings. I also wonder if I'd rather have the older RLC or RS forks.

    If I find out Fox can supply me the parts to add the 3 trail adjust knob of the Factory fork for the same or less in parts as the lockout parts, then I could just do that to the fork and be done with it for better or for worse, if it's cheaper than swapping for the Factory. At least I'd have a bit more tweakability. I was interested in the remote earlier, but it's not as important. The Climb or lockout I wouldn't use as often, mostly for the road. Plus it would be fun to DIY Macgyver a remote later some day as a project.

    Maybe I just run what it came with because it's more complicated and expensive to change it than it is to make it work as is...lol...
    Last edited by morkys; 03-09-2013 at 04:51 PM.

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    Ok, maybe this could simplify things a bit more. I guess I am used to using Pro Pedal setting 2 on my RP23 on my 26" 100 mm xc mtb and only locking out the fork for the road. Will I be ok to use the trail setting on the shock for everything but road work?

    Those of you with AX1's with the Fox EVO CTD fork and shock, how are they working?
    How do you use the fork and shock it and how are they performing for you?
    Do you use the Climb mode for climbing or is it too firm?
    Are you able to use the Trail mode for climbing without pedal bob?
    Have you compared an AX1 with Fox CTD vs a RS equipped AX_ ?

    I've heard from a couple people. If others have feedback, let me know. Maybe the Fox CTD isn't ideal but perhaps I am worrying too much about the lack of ProPedal like platform adjustments on the shock and lack of low speed comp and lockout adjust on the fork. Maybe it's not perfect, but it works good enough as is.

  23. #223
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    Think of it this way...the CTD has 3 platform settings. That's all they are. You'd be just fine running the shock/fork in the trail setting most of the time. I think that you are over thinking this. Over time you may learn to appreciate what you've bought. It's still a great bike.
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    Quote Originally Posted by morkys View Post
    Ok, maybe this could simplify things a bit more. I guess I am used to using Pro Pedal setting 2 on my RP23 on my 26" 100 mm xc mtb and only locking out the fork for the road. Will I be ok to use the trail setting on the shock for everything but road work?

    Those of you with AX1's with the Fox EVO CTD fork and shock, how are they working?
    How do you use the fork and shock it and how are they performing for you?
    Do you use the Climb mode for climbing or is it too firm?
    Are you able to use the Trail mode for climbing without pedal bob?
    Have you compared an AX1 with Fox CTD vs a RS equipped AX_ ?

    I've heard from a couple people. If others have feedback, let me know. Maybe the Fox CTD isn't ideal but perhaps I am worrying too much about the lack of ProPedal like platform adjustments on the shock and lack of low speed comp and lockout adjust on the fork. Maybe it's not perfect, but it works good enough as is.

    On climb mode (both fork and shock) the bike feels pretty stiff. I also own a road bike so I can compare. Of course, FS won't be as stiff as hardtail. The other day I sprinted out of the saddle to 50 km/h on a flat road with my Anthem X1 for a few minutes (wind on my back). I felt virtually no bob, meaning I could not sense it. Perhaps a rider with many years of experience on a hardtail or with the RP23 might feel the bob. I can't. I can sustain 30 km/h on longer distance. I used trail mode on the road once, and the bob was pretty clear. I just came from a 26er hardtail, so the full-suspension business is rather new to me. Honestly, I think the CTD is a hell of a system, but I have no saddle time on the old RP23 to compare. With respect to my 26er hardtail, my current bike lets me run so much faster on more complicated terrain by smoothing the trail. I tell my friends that I am cheating because with the Anthem X1 now I got a "road bike" that runs on MTB trails.

    A friend has the Specialized Epic Comp 29er aluminum. The fork is a Rockshox Reba and the shock is a custom Fox with the brain sensor. The brain sensor automagically adjusts the shock, and he runs the fork on fully open position. We run local XC and endurance races, and he did not want to deal with the suspension during a race as it was too dangerous. Given the fast pace of an XC race, it is better to focus on the trail and the right gears for the terrain ... That is why I feel trail mode to be a good all around setting. I use descend on the complex stuff only, so I don't bounce around.

    Can you go and try a bike with the CTD system that has the extra 3 settings (called Trail Adjust)? Seems to resemble more the RP23. It would be better to swap brand new versus used.

  25. #225
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    Thanks for the genuine feedback guys. I'll figure it out. I have been over thinking things. I'll make a list during the next few weeks before I hit the trails.

    I don't expect to change settings while riding off road. Only Lockout or Trail/Climb for the road. I am simply after fine tuning to make the fork and shock work best for me. Dial it in and ride it until I need to fine tune again months later.

    Also, I think I am mis-reading some feedback. I have to remember that the 130 mm plus travel forks have gone to an even a flatter spring rate this time, and, I think folks with the longer travel forks (up to 160 mm) are having a different experience with CTD vs previous.

    #manuelr417

    So you set both fork and shock the same for the Trail and Climb for the road? You never set one different from the other? On my previous bike I always used ProPedal setting 2 on the shock and ran the fork open except for the road. It sounds like you don't need or don't like the Climb setting for hills.

    In answer to the 3 Trail settings, yes, I could try a fork and/or shock with those. The 3 Trail Adjust settings either don't seem to cover a wide enough range, or cover a wide range but are too coarse for fine tuning. Still, it would be nice to have any more tunability. I saw an example graph showing that the 3 Trail Adjust settings just expanded the Trail setting low speed comp a little bit one way or the other from "medium". On the other hand, since some people convert their Factory shocks to remote, they choose which Trail setting to set before installing the remote.

    The Climb setting is also preset to firm in the Evolution and some Factory shocks. Perhaps a Medium Climb setting could work better for climbs, but then you'd have less of a lockout for the road? Or maybe the firm Trail Adjust setting would work better for Climbs? Not sure. It would at least be nice if the 3 Trail Adjust settings could be added to the fork in the same way you can convert to remote. I inquired with Fox about adding the 3 Trail Adjust settings.

    Maybe PUSH or Hippie Suspension could take the 3 trail adjust settings and expand them, and/or alter the Climb settings. Hopefully next year Fox will at least revert back to a minimum of one of their forks and shock having settings like the previous parts did.

    I will make a decision in the next few weeks before I hit the trails. Thanks again guys.
    Last edited by morkys; 03-10-2013 at 07:34 AM.

  26. #226
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    Quote Originally Posted by morkys View Post
    Thanks for the genuine feedback guys. I'll figure it out. I have been over thinking things. I'll make a list during the next few weeks before I hit the trails.

    I don't expect to change settings while riding off road. Only Lockout or Trail/Climb for the road. I am simply after fine tuning to make the fork and shock work best for me. Dial it in and ride it until I need to fine tune again months later.

    Also, I think I am mis-reading some feedback. I have to remember that the 130 mm plus travel forks have gone to an even a flatter spring rate this time, and, I think folks with the longer travel forks (up to 160 mm) are having a different experience with CTD vs previous.

    #manuelr417

    So you set both fork and shock the same for the Trail and Climb for the road? You never set one different from the other? On my previous bike I always used ProPedal setting 2 on the shock and ran the fork open except for the road. It sounds like you don't need or don't like the Climb setting for hills.

    In answer to the 3 Trail settings, yes, I could try a fork and/or shock with those. The 3 Trail Adjust settings either don't seem to cover a wide enough range, or cover a wide range but are too coarse for fine tuning. Still, it would be nice to have any more tunability. I saw an example graph showing that the 3 Trail Adjust settings just expanded the Trail setting low speed comp a little bit one way or the other from "medium". On the other hand, since some people convert their Factory shocks to remote, they choose which Trail setting to set before installing the remote.

    The Climb setting is also preset to firm in the Evolution and some Factory shocks. Perhaps a Medium Climb setting could work better for climbs, but then you'd have less of a lockout for the road? Or maybe the firm Trail Adjust setting would work better for Climbs? Not sure. It would at least be nice if the 3 Trail Adjust settings could be added to the fork in the same way you can convert to remote. I inquired with Fox about adding the 3 Trail Adjust settings.

    Maybe PUSH or Hippie Suspension could take the 3 trail adjust settings and expand them, and/or alter the Climb settings. Hopefully next year Fox will at least revert back to a minimum of one of their forks and shock having settings like the previous parts did.

    I will make a decision in the next few weeks before I hit the trails. Thanks again guys.
    Trail mode bobs on the road, specially when out of the saddle. Only use climb (both fork and shock) for the road. Tried climb/climb on the trail and didn't like it (too harsh). I have experimented with climb on fork and trail on shock for climbing, but prefer trail/trail setting.

  27. #227
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    Quote Originally Posted by manuelr417 View Post
    Trail mode bobs on the road, specially when out of the saddle. Only use climb (both fork and shock) for the road. Tried climb/climb on the trail and didn't like it (too harsh). I have experimented with climb on fork and trail on shock for climbing, but prefer trail/trail setting.
    Gotcha. So Climb on the shock and Trail on the fork probably no better for you either? It seems if Climb is too stiff for most people for climbing, you're left with the Trail modes platform, whatever it is. Basically similar to running no Propedal, or perhaps like the Propedal setting #1 out of three.

    I looked at my rear shock and noticed that it says "Compression Tune L" and then on the other side it says "Climb Tune Firm". I wonder if that means the equivalent of the Trail Adjust setting is set to Low?

    Changing the subject...

    Ohhh...Maaahhhh....Gaaawwwshhh

    These bars are WWIIIIDDDEE!

    29 inches wide? Wow. My last two mtb had 22.25" and 25.5" wide bars. I think I may have to make the bars a liiiittle bit narrower if I want to fit between the trees on the trails...lol..
    Last edited by morkys; 03-10-2013 at 01:58 PM.

  28. #228
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    Try the bars a few rides before you cut them. I felt the same way and never ended up cutting them.

    The stem is shorter than my last ride and the chainstays are a little longer, so after a few rides, the bars seemed perfect. But when I first jumped on (at the demo trailer), I thought someone was playing a practical joke!

  29. #229
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    I guess I can try them, but my concern isn't that they won't work. I literally think I will hit the trees on some trails! Instead of cutting them, I can get another bar and try that instead.

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    Does anyone know if the Reba on the X2 can be easily converted to 120mm of travel? I know I can with my older Reba Race. I've read quite a few posts from people saying they like 120mm on the Anthem.

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    What is it about the Avid Elixir 5 brakes that people don't like?
    Is it the lower Elixir brakes that people had issues with or also the 5's?

    I was thinking of upgrading the rotor from 170 to 180 mm but would like to just try the brakes as is otherwise. Sure it would be nice to have XT or XTR or other brakes, but if these work well enough I will just use them.

  32. #232
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    Avid brakes as a whole have a reputation for being hit or miss. They either really suck or work just fine. But not spectacular even when they are working. The nice thing? They are super easy to bleed and adjust. If you have issues, let your LBS fix them up and you should be fine. I think a lot of it is that Avid brakes are found on many lower price point bikes and people expect too much from them. I have used many bikes with lower end models and I've been riding XX and XX World Cup brakes for the last two plus years without issue. I have also used Magura Marta SL's which were better than any of the Avids and I'd say that Shimano XT and XTR aren't any better than XX and I also hate their uber short levers.
    I'm a mountain bike guide in South West Utah

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    Fair enough. I guess I can flip a coin. Take a chance they work ok, or get em off there and upgrade now.

  34. #234
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    Quote Originally Posted by morkys View Post
    What is it about the Avid Elixir 5 brakes that people don't like?
    Is it the lower Elixir brakes that people had issues with or also the 5's?

    I was thinking of upgrading the rotor from 170 to 180 mm but would like to just try the brakes as is otherwise. Sure it would be nice to have XT or XTR or other brakes, but if these work well enough I will just use them.
    Mine are working fine so far. But, I can hear the noise made my those used by some of my friends (Elixir 1 on XTC Composite and Elixir 9 on Scalpel). Lots of people switching to Magura. I plan on using mine as long as they hold up.

  35. #235
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    The Elixir 1's on my wife's bike have never been a problem. The front Elixir 1 on my Anthem was a problem from day one, but it turns out that it was part of a batch that had an undersized o-ring in it, and SRAM put a service bulletin out on it. When I took it to my LBS and pointed out the service bulletin, they contacted SRAM, went through the trouble shooting procedure SRAM wanted, confirmed the problem (which I had told them from day one something was up, but neither me nor the shop could put a finger on what it was!) and SRAM promptly sent me a SET (pair, full front and rear) of XO silvers to replace my Elixir 1's. I've had zero issues from the XO's.

    Now, obviously there was a problem with my Elixirs, but I think they more than took care of me. It's REAL hard to argue with a manufacture that will send you $500 worth of parts to replace $200 worth of parts that they only screwed up $100 worth of, but the point is they screwed up and they knew it. I'm not sure why people can't seem to deal with Avid brakes, but most of the people I know personally and ride with don't really have any issues with them. The only legitimate complaint I've heard about them is that they use DOT fluid and mineral oil is more environmentally friendly. I say give the Avid's a fair chance, honestly if you have the right setup (ie at 205lbs I NEEDED a 180 up front) they should work fine for you.

  36. #236
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    Gotcha. Thanks for the feedback.

  37. #237
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    I had a couple year old set of elixer 5's on my Fuel. They were fine for the most part. No bleeding issues. But after I used a set of Shimano SLX I was hooked. The SLX/XT have a better feel....more modulation. People really like the ice tech pads and rotors.
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  38. #238
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    The hubs/rotors on my 2013 AX1 29 are 6 bolt correct? I am not at home right now so I can't check.

  39. #239
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    Correct...6-bolt.

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    Well, just pulled the trigger on a 2013 Anthem X1! Can't wait to take it out, looks like I'm gonna let 'er rip tomorrow.

    But first I want to get it dialed in and I'm having a bit of a tough time finding appropriate sag settings for the suspension, what I've come up with so far is 8-10mm for the rear and 15-20mm for the front. Anyone have real world experience/suggestions on a "sweet spot"? And if so, approximately what % of body weight in terms of psi gets you close? This bike has the Fox CTD fork and shock on it, I'm assuming I set sag in "descend"?

  41. #241
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    Open all the settings if you want to start from scratch. You didn't say how much you weigh which is the information we really need if we're going to e-diagnose your suspension settings. On the Anthem, it's easiest to start with your body weight in the rear shock and then play with it from there to get your personal feel.
    I'm a mountain bike guide in South West Utah

  42. #242
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    I'm at 190 w/kit but was looking for a good starting guideline which you gave me, so thanks! Took it out for the first ride today and it felt pretty good overall, biggest thing that always strikes me about the Anthem is that it makes formerly difficult climbs rather painless. As for the suspension, I feel I went a bit soft on the fork. I ran both shock and fork in "trail" today (set sag in "descend"), and the rear actually felt about right at body weight, but I went 50% body weight on the fork and I think I'm going to bump that up a bit.

    Awesome bike though, very happy and I feel right at home on it almost right away. I may also cut the handlebar a little bit. I like a fairly wide bar, but I may start by cutting .75" off each end to get it closer to 695mm as I felt the 730mm stock width was a wee bit wide.

  43. #243
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    Quote Originally Posted by Silentfoe View Post
    Open all the settings if you want to start from scratch. You didn't say how much you weigh which is the information we really need if we're going to e-diagnose your suspension settings. On the Anthem, it's easiest to start with your body weight in the rear shock and then play with it from there to get your personal feel.
    I have the Advanced 1 with the RS SID RL and Monarch RL. I'm 205 ready to ride. Suggestions on pressures? I've had some difficulty with the sag markings on the suspension as it feels too soft with 25% sag and I bottom out the fork more than once or two a ride.

  44. #244
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    Quote Originally Posted by GT5050 View Post
    I'm at 190 w/kit but was looking for a good starting guideline which you gave me, so thanks! Took it out for the first ride today and it felt pretty good overall, biggest thing that always strikes me about the Anthem is that it makes formerly difficult climbs rather painless. As for the suspension, I feel I went a bit soft on the fork. I ran both shock and fork in "trail" today (set sag in "descend"), and the rear actually felt about right at body weight, but I went 50% body weight on the fork and I think I'm going to bump that up a bit.

    Awesome bike though, very happy and I feel right at home on it almost right away. I may also cut the handlebar a little bit. I like a fairly wide bar, but I may start by cutting .75" off each end to get it closer to 695mm as I felt the 730mm stock width was a wee bit wide.
    As for the bars, I put the 730 on my wife's AX29w. I am using the Race Face Atlas at 780, with a 70mm contact SL stem. Now the front is not so twitchy.
    You might continue to ride with the bars uncut a few more time before cutting them. Change always feels, well, different. Once cut...
    Enjoy.

  45. #245
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    @ DavidCarson

    I run my Monarch at 185psi and my Fork at 115+ and 120- pressure (I have the dual air, love it!). I weigh exactly as much as you do. The fox rear shocks take more pressure and the forks take a lot less. I haven't played with RS solo air forks too much so I'm no help there.

    I also cut my 730mm handlebar down to 690. I felt like I was driving a Mack truck. There is a section on Gooseberry Mesa where a wide handlebar won't fit. My 690 did but I had to scrape it through. Same on many trails I'm sure. This isn't a DH bike and it doesn't need a short stem and wide handlebar. If that's what you have, fine, but I think that's more suited to the Trance or Reign.
    I'm a mountain bike guide in South West Utah

  46. #246
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    Quote Originally Posted by Silentfoe View Post
    @ DavidCarson

    I run my Monarch at 185psi and my Fork at 115+ and 120- pressure (I have the dual air, love it!). I weigh exactly as much as you do. The fox rear shocks take more pressure and the forks take a lot less. I haven't played with RS solo air forks too much so I'm no help there.

    I also cut my 730mm handlebar down to 690. I felt like I was driving a Mack truck. There is a section on Gooseberry Mesa where a wide handlebar won't fit. My 690 did but I had to scrape it through. Same on many trails I'm sure. This isn't a DH bike and it doesn't need a short stem and wide handlebar. If that's what you have, fine, but I think that's more suited to the Trance or Reign.
    True, the TX29 was not out yet when I got my AX, I wanted full suspension 29er and I really like my bike.
    However my next bike will be more Trail/AM.

  47. #247
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    Quote Originally Posted by GT5050 View Post
    I'm at 190 w/kit but was looking for a good starting guideline which you gave me, so thanks! Took it out for the first ride today and it felt pretty good overall, biggest thing that always strikes me about the Anthem is that it makes formerly difficult climbs rather painless. As for the suspension, I feel I went a bit soft on the fork. I ran both shock and fork in "trail" today (set sag in "descend"), and the rear actually felt about right at body weight, but I went 50% body weight on the fork and I think I'm going to bump that up a bit.

    Awesome bike though, very happy and I feel right at home on it almost right away. I may also cut the handlebar a little bit. I like a fairly wide bar, but I may start by cutting .75" off each end to get it closer to 695mm as I felt the 730mm stock width was a wee bit wide.
    I might cut mine. I fell to the ground today while descending on a rocky singletrack section because the handler bar touched a tree I though I had cleared ... . Minor scratches, but a bunch of rocks were awfully close.

    I think the Anthem is an awesome bike, but the Racing Ralphs tires are just too weak. Already gashed the sidewall of my rear tire on a not-so bad rocky trail (replaced with Specy Ground Control) and today I got a cut on the front tire which Stan's had a hard time closing down. Perhaps I should go and buy another Ground Control for the weekend ...

  48. #248
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    2013 Anthem X 29er anybody?

    As for the bars, clearance is a bit of an issue so far but not huge, my main motivation in considering cutting them is simply where my hands naturally fell in the grips, which was always heavily skewed inwards. I don't want to go crazy narrow - my former Trance always felt too narrow for me at 26" and I wore out the outsides of the grips - I just want it to be where I would hold it anyway, which won't affect the leverage for steering quickness.

    For me the tires feel great for grip and the like, obviously I have no indication yet of how they'll hold up to my trails and terrain..

  49. #249
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    Re: 2013 Anthem X 29er anybody?

    Quote Originally Posted by Silentfoe View Post
    @ DavidCarson

    I run my Monarch at 185psi and my Fork at 115+ and 120- pressure (I have the dual air, love it!). I weigh exactly as much as you do. The fox rear shocks take more pressure and the forks take a lot less. I haven't played with RS solo air forks too much so I'm no help there.

    I also cut my 730mm handlebar down to 690. I felt like I was driving a Mack truck. There is a section on Gooseberry Mesa where a wide handlebar won't fit. My 690 did but I had to scrape it through. Same on many trails I'm sure. This isn't a DH bike and it doesn't need a short stem and wide handlebar. If that's what you have, fine, but I think that's more suited to the Trance or Reign.
    Thanks for the info!

  50. #250
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    Waiting for my Advanced 1 frame to arrive so I can start the build. Frame has the Monarch RL, Sid RL and Shimano BB. Thinking of running 1X10 using Shimano drive train. 32 up front with 11-36 cassette is plenty of gears for my trails. Got an XT cassette on an Arch EX with Hope hub but need a crank. Got a SLX with 22/32/bash and was thinking of using this crank with the 32 and BBG bashwich.

    Frame supposedly has a shimano press fit BB and was hoping this would work. For shifter/derailleur I'm thinking of using the Zee combo. Comments and suggestions on this set up?

    Looking for feedback especially from Silent Foe.

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