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  1. #201
    davidcarson48
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    Quote Originally Posted by strangedezign View Post
    The only thing I don't like about the 2013 AX1 is the paint job. Is it better in person?
    I think the Anthem X 1 looks great in person, but not everyone who has seen it agrees. Personal preference, obviously.

  2. #202
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    Quote Originally Posted by davidcarson48 View Post
    I think the Anthem X 1 looks great in person, but not everyone who has seen it agrees. Personal preference, obviously.
    Opinions of the bike in person can vary, but there is one thing for sure...the picture on the website is a bit misleading. The yellow accents you see on the Giant website picture are somewhat neon, sort of pastel like, as are the grey parts, but in person, or even in photo's, the yellow looks better, it looks sharper. It may be the pure white background on the website, but either way, its a relief that the yellow looks snappier in person, rather than the glowy look on the website. Even my photos don't show the real look you see in person because it was night in my house and I used a flash.

  3. #203
    davidcarson48
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    Re: 2013 Anthem X 29er anybody?

    Quote Originally Posted by morkys View Post
    Opinions of the bike in person can vary, but there is one thing for sure...the picture on the website is a bit misleading. The yellow accents you see on the Giant website picture are somewhat neon, sort of pastel like, as are the grey parts, but in person, or even in photo's, the yellow looks better, it looks sharper. It may be the pure white background on the website, but either way, its a relief that the yellow looks snappier in person, rather than the glowy look on the website. Even my photos don't show the real look you see in person because it was night in my house and I used a flash.
    Yep, I agree. It looks great in natural light.

  4. #204
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    I got the 2013 Anthem X 1 just three weeks ago here in Puerto Rico. It looks great! The yellow makes a nice contrast with the black, and the grey gives the illusion of raw aluminum. I get nothing but compliments on my ride. But the most important thing is the performance of the bike. This bike wants to go fast. On the flats, you hammer on the pedals and it responds. It climbs like a goat, and it has enabled me to climb technical sections where my 26er was ready to bail and send me to the ground. But this bike excels on the descends. It makes trails filled with roots, loose gravel, and rocks (all combined) feel like paved road. The Maestro suspension works well with the Fox CTD shocks. Definitely an XC feeling, not a trail bike feeling. The only modification I have done is swapping grips to specialized contour grips. The bike had a weight of 28 lbs for a size L, and right now stands at 29 lbs with basic shimano SPD pedals and plastic bottle cage. But don't let the weight fool you, it is a quick bike and handles extremely well on single tracks. I really recommend it, and I think is best to go for the complete bike and the X1 model.

  5. #205
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    I'm pretty much sold on the color of the X1, but I'm wondering if I should save some money and go with the X2 since I would be swapping out the wheelset and brakes anyway. I could use the $500 difference to upgrade the drivetrain. Do you think the Fox CTD is that much of an upgrade over the Rockshox suspension?

  6. #206
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    I have no experience with the Reba/Monarch, but I have heard from others that the performance is similar. In fact, the X0 women's model comes with Reba and Monarch. The X1 and X2 have the same frame and Maestro suspension, so both sets of shocks should do the job. It makes sense to go X2 if you plan on swapping brakes and wheels (they are heavy). Make sure you swap shifters and front derailleur. I would stick to a 2x10 drivetrain, which is easier and crisper than 3x10 (I had 42/32/22). The thing to note is whether you want 39/26 (as in the X2) or 38/24 (as in the X1). 38/24 is great, and I always find the right gear. I have heard from others that 26 is too heavy for quickly passing steep, technical climbs. Of course, it depends on your skills and physical condition ...

  7. #207
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    Re: 2013 Anthem X 29er anybody?

    Quote Originally Posted by strangedezign View Post
    I'm pretty much sold on the color of the X1, but I'm wondering if I should save some money and go with the X2 since I would be swapping out the wheelset and brakes anyway. I could use the $500 difference to upgrade the drivetrain. Do you think the Fox CTD is that much of an upgrade over the Rockshox suspension?
    Go with the X2 and upgrade the parts you want and save some cash. I'm glad Manuel likes his bike with the Fox CTD stuff but IMO the bike rides better with Rock Shox. A new wheel upgrade and a switch to tubeless will be awesome. Good luck!
    I'm a mountain bike guide in southwest Utah

  8. #208
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    I chose the X1 because I prefer starting with as much bicycle as I can afford and the X1 came lighter than the X2 to start with. It's light enough that I won't bother upgrading the wheels for a while. Also, I prefer the 24/38 gearing and as for the fork and shocks, I hear the FOX are a bit more compliant, cushy and the RS are a bit more firm and race oriented, and that is fine with me for my back and knees. All I need is to personalize saddle and handlebar width/choice, and consider a CTD remote (although this looks like a problem upon researching). I will try the saddle on there, but I usually really like saddles with a gap in the centre.

    My AX 29'er came with 2.25 Racing Ralph which I think is a good size, but I'm wondering about bigger tires. It doesn't look like there is an aweful lot of room for larger tires. I am ok with 2.25 or similar tires, but I am curious, are any AX 29'er owners running larger tires? What is the largest tire people are running?
    Last edited by morkys; 03-07-2013 at 10:59 AM.

  9. #209
    davidcarson48
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    Quote Originally Posted by strangedezign View Post
    I'm pretty much sold on the color of the X1, but I'm wondering if I should save some money and go with the X2 since I would be swapping out the wheelset and brakes anyway. I could use the $500 difference to upgrade the drivetrain. Do you think the Fox CTD is that much of an upgrade over the Rockshox suspension?
    No, I don't think the Fox bits are much of an upgrade. Just different. The Fox will be more plush, the RS more firm and racy.

    If you are swapping out the wheelset and brakes, the X 2 may make more sense. Although the SLX drivetrain on the X 1 is far better than the SRAM X5 stuff, it's certainly not worth $500.

  10. #210
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    Does the drivetrain make the X1 lighter? Are the brakes heavier on the X2? Ok performance though?

    I am sure I will eventually build myself an upgraded (lighter) set of wheels for my X1 so then my bike will be even lighter still. Again, the X1 was set up the way I liked. Drivetrain and shocks I like and it's lighter so maybe I spend more than I should have, but oh well...I am ok with what I got for the most part. Although the fork and shock may not be the absolute best, but should be ok.

  11. #211
    davidcarson48
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    I'm sure the SLX/XT bits are a little lighter than the X7/X5 mix. Then add a little bit for the cockpit items, a little bit for the brakes, and a little bit in the rims. Oh and a lighter saddle on the X 1. Add all of them up and you have a bike that's probably a pound lighter overall.

    Again, if you are going to change out the wheelset, saddle, and brakes anyways, it doesn't really matter. If you are going to run the bike totally stock, than MAYBE it's worth considering.

    The brakes on both the X 1 and X 2 are "ok". You may be lucky and be happy with them. But there are alot of complaints on them as well.

    The Fox stuff isn't bad, it's just different. Are you planning on racing? If not, than the Fox stuff will work great for trail rides. I ride the Advanced 1 and my buddy rides the Aluminium X 1 and we both have fun on the trails. My bike is lighter and rides more firmly, but he loves his just as much as I love mine.

  12. #212
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    The rims on the X1 are lighter than the X2? I didn't see that in the specs, but I see now they are different. The Advanced comes with even lighter rims I see.

    I didn't research enough and the evolution (non-trail adjust) forks and non-remote rear shock aren't what I would have wanted. I may swap/sell the rear shock for the remote capable shock. The evolution fork doesn't have the three trail modes, but it can at least be modded to accept the remote. The rear evo shock cannot. I may have to swap a few things around, but at least not many. Also, I may upgrade my wheels, but except for the remote option, I don't plan to do anything to my bike for at least a year/season. I may "race" it eventually, but I am sure the FOX stuff can be raced, even if they aren't the best. The RS stuff on the X2 probably isn't the equal of the Advanced. There's always better parts.

    Does anybody know if the stock shocks on the X1 are valved / tuned specific by Fox for the Giant AX 29'er frame? What happens if you order a Factory CTD rear shock?

  13. #213
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    One question morkys: have you done any extensive riding on the X1 yet? I wanted to have the remote, but the more I ride the less I feel I need it. Here is my impression so far on the fox CTD shocks/fork:

    1) Climb - I only use it when riding on the road on my way to the trail. Virtually no pedaling bob (it's not a hardtail ... ).

    2) Trail - I use it most of the time on the trails I ride, whether it is single track, fire roads, or an XC race course with sudden climbs followed by quick descends, tight turns, roots, etc. If it gets a bit complex, I set the Descend only on the fork to get a more plush feeling on the front of the bike.

    3) Descend - Only used on moderate downhills (don't do any stunts), or in technical terrain with climbs that require going over rocks and use of the 24T front ring.

    So, I ride most of the time on trail mode. So far, the folks on the hardtails have not dropped me. I don't think the Fox CTD will make your ride slow.

  14. #214
    davidcarson48
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    Re: 2013 Anthem X 29er anybody?

    Quote Originally Posted by morkys View Post
    The rims on the X1 are lighter than the X2? I didn't see that in the specs, but I see now they are different. The Advanced comes with even lighter rims I see.

    I didn't research enough and the evolution (non-trail adjust) forks and non-remote rear shock aren't what I would have wanted. I may swap/sell the rear shock for the remote capable shock. The evolution fork doesn't have the three trail modes, but it can at least be modded to accept the remote. The rear evo shock cannot. I may have to swap a few things around, but at least not many. Also, I may upgrade my wheels, but except for the remote option, I don't plan to do anything to my bike for at least a year/season. I may "race" it eventually, but I am sure the FOX stuff can be raced, even if they aren't the best. The RS stuff on the X2 probably isn't the equal of the Advanced. There's always better parts.

    Does anybody know if the stock shocks on the X1 are valved / tuned specific by Fox for the Giant AX 29'er frame? What happens if you order a Factory CTD rear shock?
    Yes, the rims on the two bikes are slightly different. X2 being slightly heavier. The hubs are the same.

    Yes, the Advanced 1 has a totally different wheelset than the Aluminum bikes. Much lighter, straight pull spokes, and hubs with DT internals. Also tubeless ready (although the bikes you are looking at do convert reliably enough).

    Yes, the Advanced 1 RS fork is stiffer and lighter than the X2, but the X2 is still valved more firmly than the X1.

    I have zero interest in having remotes, so I'm no help there.

  15. #215
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    Quote Originally Posted by manuelr417 View Post
    One question morkys: have you done any extensive riding on the X1 yet? I wanted to have the remote, but the more I ride the less I feel I need it. Here is my impression so far on the fox CTD shocks/fork:

    1) Climb - I only use it when riding on the road on my way to the trail. Virtually no pedaling bob (it's not a hardtail ... ).

    2) Trail - I use it most of the time on the trails I ride, whether it is single track, fire roads, or an XC race course with sudden climbs followed by quick descends, tight turns, roots, etc. If it gets a bit complex, I set the Descend only on the fork to get a more plush feeling on the front of the bike.

    3) Descend - Only used on moderate downhills (don't do any stunts), or in technical terrain with climbs that require going over rocks and use of the 24T front ring.

    So, I ride most of the time on trail mode. So far, the folks on the hardtails have not dropped me. I don't think the Fox CTD will make your ride slow.
    Excellent feedback. Much appreciated.

    So you did not get the remote and feel less and less interested in it as you ride your bike more and more?

    You obviously have the evo fork and therefore do not have the 3 extra trail slow speed compression settings?
    How is the performance of the fork in general? You don't miss the Trails extra 3 slow speed compression settings of the Factory fork?

    I have done zero riding. I bought the bike at the Spring Bicycle show, rode it home from the train on the road.

    Sounds a little like 3 pro-pedal settings instead of 4, where they are spread out more. As in, the Descent mode is more like Pro-Pedal OFF.

    The Climb function for the road sounds great. I used my RLC 32 and RP23 like that, except that I was able to fine tune the lockout. It doesn't sound like you can do that with the Climb mode. Also sounds like the Climb mode can never equate to full lockout like I got with the RLC32, but then again, it sounds like it's still good enough that people find it works for the road. I hope to ride from my house up to Durham Forest this year and that means 40 min to an hour on the road, so that is definitely useful.

    Quote Originally Posted by davidcarson48 View Post
    Yes, the rims on the two bikes are slightly different. X2 being slightly heavier. The hubs are the same.

    Yes, the Advanced 1 has a totally different wheelset than the Aluminum bikes. Much lighter, straight pull spokes, and hubs with DT internals. Also tubeless ready (although the bikes you are looking at do convert reliably enough).

    Yes, the Advanced 1 RS fork is stiffer and lighter than the X2, but the X2 is still valved more firmly than the X1.

    I have zero interest in having remotes, so I'm no help there.
    Good info and feedback.

    If I could have afforded it, I would have figured out a way to get an Advanced 1. I would never spend the $8K for the Advanced Zero, but in Canada, I don't see the Advanced 1 available for us here.

    Again, if the RS shocks are valved more firmly than the Fox Float equipment I have, that's ok. Besides, I am fine to tweak.

    I understand not wanting a remote because it's added weight and complexity etc. I always thought about putting one on my Brodie Mettle with its RLC 32 and RP23 but I never did and I basically use the lockout and propedal exactly as manuelr417 states...for road going. With this setup, I simply wanted to try it out with a remote to see how I liked it.

    I also noticed that somebody in the Shocks and Suspension forum commented in the "Adding a remote to a Fox CTD shock" thread that once you add the remote to the fork, you lose the 3 trail adjustments. That seems odd.

    One thing's for sure, with a lot of time and ingenuity, a custom remote setup could be macgyvered (custom homemade).

  16. #216
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    Quote Originally Posted by morkys View Post
    Excellent feedback. Much appreciated.

    So you did not get the remote and feel less and less interested in it as you ride your bike more and more?

    You obviously have the evo fork and therefore do not have the 3 extra trail slow speed compression settings?
    How is the performance of the fork in general? You don't miss the Trails extra 3 slow speed compression settings of the Factory fork?

    I have done zero riding. I bought the bike at the Spring Bicycle show, rode it home from the train on the road.

    Sounds a little like 3 pro-pedal settings instead of 4, where they are spread out more. As in, the Descent mode is more like Pro-Pedal OFF.

    The Climb function for the road sounds great. I used my RLC 32 and RP23 like that, except that I was able to fine tune the lockout. It doesn't sound like you can do that with the Climb mode. Also sounds like the Climb mode can never equate to full lockout like I got with the RLC32, but then again, it sounds like it's still good enough that people find it works for the road. I hope to ride from my house up to Durham Forest this year and that means 40 min to an hour on the road, so that is definitely useful.



    Good info and feedback.

    If I could have afforded it, I would have figured out a way to get an Advanced 1. I would never spend the $8K for the Advanced Zero, but in Canada, I don't see the Advanced 1 available for us here.

    Again, if the RS shocks are valved more firmly than the Fox Float equipment I have, that's ok. Besides, I am fine to tweak.

    I understand not wanting a remote because it's added weight and complexity etc. I always thought about putting one on my Brodie Mettle with its RLC 32 and RP23 but I never did and I basically use the lockout and propedal exactly as manuelr417 states...for road going. With this setup, I simply wanted to try it out with a remote to see how I liked it.

    I also noticed that somebody in the Shocks and Suspension forum commented in the "Adding a remote to a Fox CTD shock" thread that once you add the remote to the fork, you lose the 3 trail adjustments. That seems odd.

    One thing's for sure, with a lot of time and ingenuity, a custom remote setup could be macgyvered (custom homemade).
    I have the evolution ctd fork and the basic ctd shock. There are only 3 settings on each.The factory models have 3 extra settings when you run on trail mode, to make the trail mode more firm or more plush. The remote cannot handle these three settings. Honestly, I wanted the remote at first, but as I kept on riding I realized I was better off leaving the suspension alone to do its job. So the remote became a non-issue. I think you should not be too concern with this remote stuff. Hit some trails when you get the chance and you will see why this bike has won so many good reviews.

  17. #217
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    Fair enough. It's just an annoying distraction. You get a feature called CTD and yet you can't fully use it remotely, even if you want to add something later. I guess the three slow speed compression settings for the trail mode are nice but probably not that big a deal. I just figured because you don't have variable compression dampening adjust like on the older forks, it would be nice to have at least 3 settings, but it seems coarse enough not to matter. I wouldn't be surprised if I had the 3 trail settings and left it in the middle. Of course I then came across Boost Valve and that sounds like more expense for diminishing gains. Ok, thanks again for the feedback.

  18. #218
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    Quote Originally Posted by manuelr417 View Post
    One question morkys: have you done any extensive riding on the X1 yet? I wanted to have the remote, but the more I ride the less I feel I need it. Here is my impression so far on the fox CTD shocks/fork:

    1) Climb - I only use it when riding on the road on my way to the trail. Virtually no pedaling bob (it's not a hardtail ... ).

    2) Trail - I use it most of the time on the trails I ride, whether it is single track, fire roads, or an XC race course with sudden climbs followed by quick descends, tight turns, roots, etc. If it gets a bit complex, I set the Descend only on the fork to get a more plush feeling on the front of the bike.

    3) Descend - Only used on moderate downhills (don't do any stunts), or in technical terrain with climbs that require going over rocks and use of the 24T front ring.

    So, I ride most of the time on trail mode. So far, the folks on the hardtails have not dropped me. I don't think the Fox CTD will make your ride slow.
    Another quick question about the CTD. Do you find the Climb mode is effective? Does it work on some bumps and yet avoid pedal bob? I have heard the opposite from some folks. Doesn't react to bumps but has some pedal bob.

    While I would like to just go ahead and ride it, I find this CTD stuff a step backwards. With my previous fork, a 32 RLC, I had all I needed. Slow speed compression and rebound adjustment which I fiddled with enabling me to fine tune my regular performance. For road or long smooth climbs I used the lockout, which I could adjust the threshold of. Quite frankly I find this new setup less tunable. Yes, I will eventually try it out, but I don't understand why I have lost a complete lockout, and adjustable lockout, and also lost low speed compression adjustment.

  19. #219
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    Since I won't be riding this bike in a while, I am second guessing my choice based on the suspension. I am find to upgrade the front rotor to bigger and see if I like the brakes, but the suspension isn't looking like what I thought it would be. The trouble is, swapping out the Fox Evo for the Factory forks and shocks only gives me 3 trails settings, the Kashima and the "FIT" technology. I am wondering if I should just forget it and ride it as is, or change the fork and shock to the Factory parts, or say the older RLC 100 fork and an RP23 if I could find them, or swap for rock shox parts. Whatever I did, it would probably be expensive. I was thinking I may inquire if I can add the 3 trail settings to the Evo fork much like you can add the lockout parts. The rear shock is easy enough to swap/sell/trade for something else if I need to, but the fork is a bigger concern. It's a potentially very costly swap.

    This is one thing that is annoying about the Giant AX 29'er lineup. It's all RS except the X1 aluminum bike. The X4 has a recon. The X2 has a Reba RL and the Advanced 2 has the Reba RL the Advanced 1 has the SID RL and the 0 has the SID RCT3. And the rear shocks very from the Monarch R to the RL to the RT3. In the US the Advanced frame comes with the RT3 rear shock and the Alum frame comes with the RL. So the Fox fork and shock on the X1 is a weird anomaly. I don't know about other years.

    I wish you could special order which fork and shock came on a particular model. Same would be nice for wheels, but I'm talking suspension here. Sure, there are loads of different parts like drivetrain etc, but it would be nice to special order suspension and wheels. I wish I could contact Giant and ask to swap the fork and shock for the RS bits that are on the Advanced 1 at least. If I try to do that myself, the buying and selling will add quite a bit of cost to my new bike.
    Last edited by morkys; 03-09-2013 at 05:01 PM.

  20. #220
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    Quote Originally Posted by morkys View Post
    Since I won't be riding this bike in a while, I am second guessing my choice based on the suspension. I am find to upgrade the front rotor to bigger and see if I like the brakes, but the suspension isn't looking like what I thought it would be..
    What is it about the suspension that you are not liking?

  21. #221
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    Quote Originally Posted by strangedezign View Post
    What is it about the suspension that you are not liking?
    I don't like the lack of low speed compression adjustment and lockout threshold adjustment on the fork. Similar for the rear shock. I realize that the AX1 frame is such that bob won't be a major problem, but the CTD stuff seems like a step backwards. I'd rather have a propedal type platform on the rear shock, and a similar option up front when I need it.

    Who knows. For all it's worth, it may work fine, but I was disappointed when I found out the shortcomings of the CTD fork and shock, and particularly the Evo vs the Factory parts.

    I am making a decision now because the bike is brand new practically un-ridden so the fork and shock are virtually un-used. Once I ride it a few times, their value will go down. If I would like different suspension, I should swap it now before I use the bike next month. Brake rotors and brakes aren't a major issue. I can upgrade those as needed, but the suspension is a big expensive portion of the bike. Rear shock is not such a big deal bc I could swap it without much added cost. Even getting the Factory CTD at least adds 3 more trail settings for not much more cost, but to do that buy and sell with the fork may be more costly. I could swap the rear shock for an RP23 but some have said they like the new shock despite the CTD vs propedal, so maybe it would be better with the 3 trail settings. I also wonder if I'd rather have the older RLC or RS forks.

    If I find out Fox can supply me the parts to add the 3 trail adjust knob of the Factory fork for the same or less in parts as the lockout parts, then I could just do that to the fork and be done with it for better or for worse, if it's cheaper than swapping for the Factory. At least I'd have a bit more tweakability. I was interested in the remote earlier, but it's not as important. The Climb or lockout I wouldn't use as often, mostly for the road. Plus it would be fun to DIY Macgyver a remote later some day as a project.

    Maybe I just run what it came with because it's more complicated and expensive to change it than it is to make it work as is...lol...
    Last edited by morkys; 03-09-2013 at 05:51 PM.

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    Ok, maybe this could simplify things a bit more. I guess I am used to using Pro Pedal setting 2 on my RP23 on my 26" 100 mm xc mtb and only locking out the fork for the road. Will I be ok to use the trail setting on the shock for everything but road work?

    Those of you with AX1's with the Fox EVO CTD fork and shock, how are they working?
    How do you use the fork and shock it and how are they performing for you?
    Do you use the Climb mode for climbing or is it too firm?
    Are you able to use the Trail mode for climbing without pedal bob?
    Have you compared an AX1 with Fox CTD vs a RS equipped AX_ ?

    I've heard from a couple people. If others have feedback, let me know. Maybe the Fox CTD isn't ideal but perhaps I am worrying too much about the lack of ProPedal like platform adjustments on the shock and lack of low speed comp and lockout adjust on the fork. Maybe it's not perfect, but it works good enough as is.

  23. #223
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    Think of it this way...the CTD has 3 platform settings. That's all they are. You'd be just fine running the shock/fork in the trail setting most of the time. I think that you are over thinking this. Over time you may learn to appreciate what you've bought. It's still a great bike.
    I'm a mountain bike guide in southwest Utah

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    Quote Originally Posted by morkys View Post
    Ok, maybe this could simplify things a bit more. I guess I am used to using Pro Pedal setting 2 on my RP23 on my 26" 100 mm xc mtb and only locking out the fork for the road. Will I be ok to use the trail setting on the shock for everything but road work?

    Those of you with AX1's with the Fox EVO CTD fork and shock, how are they working?
    How do you use the fork and shock it and how are they performing for you?
    Do you use the Climb mode for climbing or is it too firm?
    Are you able to use the Trail mode for climbing without pedal bob?
    Have you compared an AX1 with Fox CTD vs a RS equipped AX_ ?

    I've heard from a couple people. If others have feedback, let me know. Maybe the Fox CTD isn't ideal but perhaps I am worrying too much about the lack of ProPedal like platform adjustments on the shock and lack of low speed comp and lockout adjust on the fork. Maybe it's not perfect, but it works good enough as is.

    On climb mode (both fork and shock) the bike feels pretty stiff. I also own a road bike so I can compare. Of course, FS won't be as stiff as hardtail. The other day I sprinted out of the saddle to 50 km/h on a flat road with my Anthem X1 for a few minutes (wind on my back). I felt virtually no bob, meaning I could not sense it. Perhaps a rider with many years of experience on a hardtail or with the RP23 might feel the bob. I can't. I can sustain 30 km/h on longer distance. I used trail mode on the road once, and the bob was pretty clear. I just came from a 26er hardtail, so the full-suspension business is rather new to me. Honestly, I think the CTD is a hell of a system, but I have no saddle time on the old RP23 to compare. With respect to my 26er hardtail, my current bike lets me run so much faster on more complicated terrain by smoothing the trail. I tell my friends that I am cheating because with the Anthem X1 now I got a "road bike" that runs on MTB trails.

    A friend has the Specialized Epic Comp 29er aluminum. The fork is a Rockshox Reba and the shock is a custom Fox with the brain sensor. The brain sensor automagically adjusts the shock, and he runs the fork on fully open position. We run local XC and endurance races, and he did not want to deal with the suspension during a race as it was too dangerous. Given the fast pace of an XC race, it is better to focus on the trail and the right gears for the terrain ... That is why I feel trail mode to be a good all around setting. I use descend on the complex stuff only, so I don't bounce around.

    Can you go and try a bike with the CTD system that has the extra 3 settings (called Trail Adjust)? Seems to resemble more the RP23. It would be better to swap brand new versus used.

  25. #225
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    Thanks for the genuine feedback guys. I'll figure it out. I have been over thinking things. I'll make a list during the next few weeks before I hit the trails.

    I don't expect to change settings while riding off road. Only Lockout or Trail/Climb for the road. I am simply after fine tuning to make the fork and shock work best for me. Dial it in and ride it until I need to fine tune again months later.

    Also, I think I am mis-reading some feedback. I have to remember that the 130 mm plus travel forks have gone to an even a flatter spring rate this time, and, I think folks with the longer travel forks (up to 160 mm) are having a different experience with CTD vs previous.

    #manuelr417

    So you set both fork and shock the same for the Trail and Climb for the road? You never set one different from the other? On my previous bike I always used ProPedal setting 2 on the shock and ran the fork open except for the road. It sounds like you don't need or don't like the Climb setting for hills.

    In answer to the 3 Trail settings, yes, I could try a fork and/or shock with those. The 3 Trail Adjust settings either don't seem to cover a wide enough range, or cover a wide range but are too coarse for fine tuning. Still, it would be nice to have any more tunability. I saw an example graph showing that the 3 Trail Adjust settings just expanded the Trail setting low speed comp a little bit one way or the other from "medium". On the other hand, since some people convert their Factory shocks to remote, they choose which Trail setting to set before installing the remote.

    The Climb setting is also preset to firm in the Evolution and some Factory shocks. Perhaps a Medium Climb setting could work better for climbs, but then you'd have less of a lockout for the road? Or maybe the firm Trail Adjust setting would work better for Climbs? Not sure. It would at least be nice if the 3 Trail Adjust settings could be added to the fork in the same way you can convert to remote. I inquired with Fox about adding the 3 Trail Adjust settings.

    Maybe PUSH or Hippie Suspension could take the 3 trail adjust settings and expand them, and/or alter the Climb settings. Hopefully next year Fox will at least revert back to a minimum of one of their forks and shock having settings like the previous parts did.

    I will make a decision in the next few weeks before I hit the trails. Thanks again guys.
    Last edited by morkys; 03-10-2013 at 07:34 AM.

  26. #226
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    Quote Originally Posted by morkys View Post
    Thanks for the genuine feedback guys. I'll figure it out. I have been over thinking things. I'll make a list during the next few weeks before I hit the trails.

    I don't expect to change settings while riding off road. Only Lockout or Trail/Climb for the road. I am simply after fine tuning to make the fork and shock work best for me. Dial it in and ride it until I need to fine tune again months later.

    Also, I think I am mis-reading some feedback. I have to remember that the 130 mm plus travel forks have gone to an even a flatter spring rate this time, and, I think folks with the longer travel forks (up to 160 mm) are having a different experience with CTD vs previous.

    #manuelr417

    So you set both fork and shock the same for the Trail and Climb for the road? You never set one different from the other? On my previous bike I always used ProPedal setting 2 on the shock and ran the fork open except for the road. It sounds like you don't need or don't like the Climb setting for hills.

    In answer to the 3 Trail settings, yes, I could try a fork and/or shock with those. The 3 Trail Adjust settings either don't seem to cover a wide enough range, or cover a wide range but are too coarse for fine tuning. Still, it would be nice to have any more tunability. I saw an example graph showing that the 3 Trail Adjust settings just expanded the Trail setting low speed comp a little bit one way or the other from "medium". On the other hand, since some people convert their Factory shocks to remote, they choose which Trail setting to set before installing the remote.

    The Climb setting is also preset to firm in the Evolution and some Factory shocks. Perhaps a Medium Climb setting could work better for climbs, but then you'd have less of a lockout for the road? Or maybe the firm Trail Adjust setting would work better for Climbs? Not sure. It would at least be nice if the 3 Trail Adjust settings could be added to the fork in the same way you can convert to remote. I inquired with Fox about adding the 3 Trail Adjust settings.

    Maybe PUSH or Hippie Suspension could take the 3 trail adjust settings and expand them, and/or alter the Climb settings. Hopefully next year Fox will at least revert back to a minimum of one of their forks and shock having settings like the previous parts did.

    I will make a decision in the next few weeks before I hit the trails. Thanks again guys.
    Trail mode bobs on the road, specially when out of the saddle. Only use climb (both fork and shock) for the road. Tried climb/climb on the trail and didn't like it (too harsh). I have experimented with climb on fork and trail on shock for climbing, but prefer trail/trail setting.

  27. #227
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    Quote Originally Posted by manuelr417 View Post
    Trail mode bobs on the road, specially when out of the saddle. Only use climb (both fork and shock) for the road. Tried climb/climb on the trail and didn't like it (too harsh). I have experimented with climb on fork and trail on shock for climbing, but prefer trail/trail setting.
    Gotcha. So Climb on the shock and Trail on the fork probably no better for you either? It seems if Climb is too stiff for most people for climbing, you're left with the Trail modes platform, whatever it is. Basically similar to running no Propedal, or perhaps like the Propedal setting #1 out of three.

    I looked at my rear shock and noticed that it says "Compression Tune L" and then on the other side it says "Climb Tune Firm". I wonder if that means the equivalent of the Trail Adjust setting is set to Low?

    Changing the subject...

    Ohhh...Maaahhhh....Gaaawwwshhh

    These bars are WWIIIIDDDEE!

    29 inches wide? Wow. My last two mtb had 22.25" and 25.5" wide bars. I think I may have to make the bars a liiiittle bit narrower if I want to fit between the trees on the trails...lol..
    Last edited by morkys; 03-10-2013 at 01:58 PM.

  28. #228
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    Try the bars a few rides before you cut them. I felt the same way and never ended up cutting them.

    The stem is shorter than my last ride and the chainstays are a little longer, so after a few rides, the bars seemed perfect. But when I first jumped on (at the demo trailer), I thought someone was playing a practical joke!

  29. #229
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    I guess I can try them, but my concern isn't that they won't work. I literally think I will hit the trees on some trails! Instead of cutting them, I can get another bar and try that instead.

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    Does anyone know if the Reba on the X2 can be easily converted to 120mm of travel? I know I can with my older Reba Race. I've read quite a few posts from people saying they like 120mm on the Anthem.

  31. #231
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    What is it about the Avid Elixir 5 brakes that people don't like?
    Is it the lower Elixir brakes that people had issues with or also the 5's?

    I was thinking of upgrading the rotor from 170 to 180 mm but would like to just try the brakes as is otherwise. Sure it would be nice to have XT or XTR or other brakes, but if these work well enough I will just use them.

  32. #232
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    Avid brakes as a whole have a reputation for being hit or miss. They either really suck or work just fine. But not spectacular even when they are working. The nice thing? They are super easy to bleed and adjust. If you have issues, let your LBS fix them up and you should be fine. I think a lot of it is that Avid brakes are found on many lower price point bikes and people expect too much from them. I have used many bikes with lower end models and I've been riding XX and XX World Cup brakes for the last two plus years without issue. I have also used Magura Marta SL's which were better than any of the Avids and I'd say that Shimano XT and XTR aren't any better than XX and I also hate their uber short levers.
    I'm a mountain bike guide in southwest Utah

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    Fair enough. I guess I can flip a coin. Take a chance they work ok, or get em off there and upgrade now.

  34. #234
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    Quote Originally Posted by morkys View Post
    What is it about the Avid Elixir 5 brakes that people don't like?
    Is it the lower Elixir brakes that people had issues with or also the 5's?

    I was thinking of upgrading the rotor from 170 to 180 mm but would like to just try the brakes as is otherwise. Sure it would be nice to have XT or XTR or other brakes, but if these work well enough I will just use them.
    Mine are working fine so far. But, I can hear the noise made my those used by some of my friends (Elixir 1 on XTC Composite and Elixir 9 on Scalpel). Lots of people switching to Magura. I plan on using mine as long as they hold up.

  35. #235
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    The Elixir 1's on my wife's bike have never been a problem. The front Elixir 1 on my Anthem was a problem from day one, but it turns out that it was part of a batch that had an undersized o-ring in it, and SRAM put a service bulletin out on it. When I took it to my LBS and pointed out the service bulletin, they contacted SRAM, went through the trouble shooting procedure SRAM wanted, confirmed the problem (which I had told them from day one something was up, but neither me nor the shop could put a finger on what it was!) and SRAM promptly sent me a SET (pair, full front and rear) of XO silvers to replace my Elixir 1's. I've had zero issues from the XO's.

    Now, obviously there was a problem with my Elixirs, but I think they more than took care of me. It's REAL hard to argue with a manufacture that will send you $500 worth of parts to replace $200 worth of parts that they only screwed up $100 worth of, but the point is they screwed up and they knew it. I'm not sure why people can't seem to deal with Avid brakes, but most of the people I know personally and ride with don't really have any issues with them. The only legitimate complaint I've heard about them is that they use DOT fluid and mineral oil is more environmentally friendly. I say give the Avid's a fair chance, honestly if you have the right setup (ie at 205lbs I NEEDED a 180 up front) they should work fine for you.

  36. #236
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    Gotcha. Thanks for the feedback.

  37. #237
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    I had a couple year old set of elixer 5's on my Fuel. They were fine for the most part. No bleeding issues. But after I used a set of Shimano SLX I was hooked. The SLX/XT have a better feel....more modulation. People really like the ice tech pads and rotors.
    2017 Fuel EX 9

  38. #238
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    The hubs/rotors on my 2013 AX1 29 are 6 bolt correct? I am not at home right now so I can't check.

  39. #239
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    Correct...6-bolt.

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    Well, just pulled the trigger on a 2013 Anthem X1! Can't wait to take it out, looks like I'm gonna let 'er rip tomorrow.

    But first I want to get it dialed in and I'm having a bit of a tough time finding appropriate sag settings for the suspension, what I've come up with so far is 8-10mm for the rear and 15-20mm for the front. Anyone have real world experience/suggestions on a "sweet spot"? And if so, approximately what % of body weight in terms of psi gets you close? This bike has the Fox CTD fork and shock on it, I'm assuming I set sag in "descend"?

  41. #241
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    Open all the settings if you want to start from scratch. You didn't say how much you weigh which is the information we really need if we're going to e-diagnose your suspension settings. On the Anthem, it's easiest to start with your body weight in the rear shock and then play with it from there to get your personal feel.
    I'm a mountain bike guide in southwest Utah

  42. #242
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    I'm at 190 w/kit but was looking for a good starting guideline which you gave me, so thanks! Took it out for the first ride today and it felt pretty good overall, biggest thing that always strikes me about the Anthem is that it makes formerly difficult climbs rather painless. As for the suspension, I feel I went a bit soft on the fork. I ran both shock and fork in "trail" today (set sag in "descend"), and the rear actually felt about right at body weight, but I went 50% body weight on the fork and I think I'm going to bump that up a bit.

    Awesome bike though, very happy and I feel right at home on it almost right away. I may also cut the handlebar a little bit. I like a fairly wide bar, but I may start by cutting .75" off each end to get it closer to 695mm as I felt the 730mm stock width was a wee bit wide.

  43. #243
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    Quote Originally Posted by Silentfoe View Post
    Open all the settings if you want to start from scratch. You didn't say how much you weigh which is the information we really need if we're going to e-diagnose your suspension settings. On the Anthem, it's easiest to start with your body weight in the rear shock and then play with it from there to get your personal feel.
    I have the Advanced 1 with the RS SID RL and Monarch RL. I'm 205 ready to ride. Suggestions on pressures? I've had some difficulty with the sag markings on the suspension as it feels too soft with 25% sag and I bottom out the fork more than once or two a ride.

  44. #244
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    Quote Originally Posted by GT5050 View Post
    I'm at 190 w/kit but was looking for a good starting guideline which you gave me, so thanks! Took it out for the first ride today and it felt pretty good overall, biggest thing that always strikes me about the Anthem is that it makes formerly difficult climbs rather painless. As for the suspension, I feel I went a bit soft on the fork. I ran both shock and fork in "trail" today (set sag in "descend"), and the rear actually felt about right at body weight, but I went 50% body weight on the fork and I think I'm going to bump that up a bit.

    Awesome bike though, very happy and I feel right at home on it almost right away. I may also cut the handlebar a little bit. I like a fairly wide bar, but I may start by cutting .75" off each end to get it closer to 695mm as I felt the 730mm stock width was a wee bit wide.
    As for the bars, I put the 730 on my wife's AX29w. I am using the Race Face Atlas at 780, with a 70mm contact SL stem. Now the front is not so twitchy.
    You might continue to ride with the bars uncut a few more time before cutting them. Change always feels, well, different. Once cut...
    Enjoy.

  45. #245
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    @ DavidCarson

    I run my Monarch at 185psi and my Fork at 115+ and 120- pressure (I have the dual air, love it!). I weigh exactly as much as you do. The fox rear shocks take more pressure and the forks take a lot less. I haven't played with RS solo air forks too much so I'm no help there.

    I also cut my 730mm handlebar down to 690. I felt like I was driving a Mack truck. There is a section on Gooseberry Mesa where a wide handlebar won't fit. My 690 did but I had to scrape it through. Same on many trails I'm sure. This isn't a DH bike and it doesn't need a short stem and wide handlebar. If that's what you have, fine, but I think that's more suited to the Trance or Reign.
    I'm a mountain bike guide in southwest Utah

  46. #246
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    Quote Originally Posted by Silentfoe View Post
    @ DavidCarson

    I run my Monarch at 185psi and my Fork at 115+ and 120- pressure (I have the dual air, love it!). I weigh exactly as much as you do. The fox rear shocks take more pressure and the forks take a lot less. I haven't played with RS solo air forks too much so I'm no help there.

    I also cut my 730mm handlebar down to 690. I felt like I was driving a Mack truck. There is a section on Gooseberry Mesa where a wide handlebar won't fit. My 690 did but I had to scrape it through. Same on many trails I'm sure. This isn't a DH bike and it doesn't need a short stem and wide handlebar. If that's what you have, fine, but I think that's more suited to the Trance or Reign.
    True, the TX29 was not out yet when I got my AX, I wanted full suspension 29er and I really like my bike.
    However my next bike will be more Trail/AM.

  47. #247
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    Quote Originally Posted by GT5050 View Post
    I'm at 190 w/kit but was looking for a good starting guideline which you gave me, so thanks! Took it out for the first ride today and it felt pretty good overall, biggest thing that always strikes me about the Anthem is that it makes formerly difficult climbs rather painless. As for the suspension, I feel I went a bit soft on the fork. I ran both shock and fork in "trail" today (set sag in "descend"), and the rear actually felt about right at body weight, but I went 50% body weight on the fork and I think I'm going to bump that up a bit.

    Awesome bike though, very happy and I feel right at home on it almost right away. I may also cut the handlebar a little bit. I like a fairly wide bar, but I may start by cutting .75" off each end to get it closer to 695mm as I felt the 730mm stock width was a wee bit wide.
    I might cut mine. I fell to the ground today while descending on a rocky singletrack section because the handler bar touched a tree I though I had cleared ... . Minor scratches, but a bunch of rocks were awfully close.

    I think the Anthem is an awesome bike, but the Racing Ralphs tires are just too weak. Already gashed the sidewall of my rear tire on a not-so bad rocky trail (replaced with Specy Ground Control) and today I got a cut on the front tire which Stan's had a hard time closing down. Perhaps I should go and buy another Ground Control for the weekend ...

  48. #248
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    2013 Anthem X 29er anybody?

    As for the bars, clearance is a bit of an issue so far but not huge, my main motivation in considering cutting them is simply where my hands naturally fell in the grips, which was always heavily skewed inwards. I don't want to go crazy narrow - my former Trance always felt too narrow for me at 26" and I wore out the outsides of the grips - I just want it to be where I would hold it anyway, which won't affect the leverage for steering quickness.

    For me the tires feel great for grip and the like, obviously I have no indication yet of how they'll hold up to my trails and terrain..

  49. #249
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    Re: 2013 Anthem X 29er anybody?

    Quote Originally Posted by Silentfoe View Post
    @ DavidCarson

    I run my Monarch at 185psi and my Fork at 115+ and 120- pressure (I have the dual air, love it!). I weigh exactly as much as you do. The fox rear shocks take more pressure and the forks take a lot less. I haven't played with RS solo air forks too much so I'm no help there.

    I also cut my 730mm handlebar down to 690. I felt like I was driving a Mack truck. There is a section on Gooseberry Mesa where a wide handlebar won't fit. My 690 did but I had to scrape it through. Same on many trails I'm sure. This isn't a DH bike and it doesn't need a short stem and wide handlebar. If that's what you have, fine, but I think that's more suited to the Trance or Reign.
    Thanks for the info!

  50. #250
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    Waiting for my Advanced 1 frame to arrive so I can start the build. Frame has the Monarch RL, Sid RL and Shimano BB. Thinking of running 1X10 using Shimano drive train. 32 up front with 11-36 cassette is plenty of gears for my trails. Got an XT cassette on an Arch EX with Hope hub but need a crank. Got a SLX with 22/32/bash and was thinking of using this crank with the 32 and BBG bashwich.

    Frame supposedly has a shimano press fit BB and was hoping this would work. For shifter/derailleur I'm thinking of using the Zee combo. Comments and suggestions on this set up?

    Looking for feedback especially from Silent Foe.

  51. #251
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    Re: 2013 Anthem X 29er anybody?

    Ha. I'm flattered. If it's Shimano parts across the board, you shouldn't have any issues. Honestly I'm curious as to how you have an Anthem Advanced 1 frame on the way. The only frame I know of is the 0. You must have a hook up or someone is selling a stripped down bike. Your build sounds like it'll be a great bike! Post it in the carbon anthems thread when you're done. Good luck!
    I'm a mountain bike guide in southwest Utah

  52. #252
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    So today I had the bike out again, loving this thing! Played with the suspension some more and it felt pretty dialed today, I'm gonna run it where I now have it (15mm sag on fork and 9mm on shock) and start fine tuning from there but I feel like I have a good baseline. Also cut the handlebar a bit, didn't want to take too big a chunk at once so I cut 10mm off each end, now it's sitting at 710mm or just shy of 28". Actually felt just about where I wanted it.

    I haven't weighed the bike yet, but it feels surprisingly light for basically out of the box (only change is tubeless conversion) - my Trance X weighed 27.5 w/pedals and this feels lighter. Not that it shouldn't be lighter, but I was expecting it to be about the same weight.

    Next upgrade because it's cheap and easy is to go 1X10. Don't really need the granny gear for my FL "mountains". After that I'll go to a carbon handlebar (mainly for feel), and eventually a lighter wheel set along the lines of some Mavic SLR's. I feel these are the key things that will make a big impact on the ride and with these simple changes it should be a very respectable weight. Any other thoughts on that logic?

    Anyway, here it is - I must say I agree with the others who say the X1 looks much better in person:

    2013 Anthem X 29er anybody?-7512d64f-6359-4e64-ad12-89b518293f16_zpsd951321b.jpg

  53. #253
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    Quote Originally Posted by Silentfoe View Post
    Ha. I'm flattered. If it's Shimano parts across the board, you shouldn't have any issues. Honestly I'm curious as to how you have an Anthem Advanced 1 frame on the way. The only frame I know of is the 0. You must have a hook up or someone is selling a stripped down bike. Your build sounds like it'll be a great bike! Post it in the carbon anthems thread when you're done. Good luck!
    This is why I asked for your feedback, you seem to have detailed working knowledge of the new Advanced bikes.

    It's a stripped down 2013 Advanced 1 XL supposedly in "new" condition. Comes with the RL fork and shock, Shimano BB, headset and 110 contact stem. My concern is crankset as I have built up several bikes and have always used threaded 68/73 BB. With those I could always get the chain line dialed with spacers. My current bike, AX 1 aluux has the press fit but the 2X10 was already there.

    Another concern is the OD2 head set and fork and stem. Think the Sid will work but I had my Fox fork Pushed with travel increased to 120 and this worked great on my aluux Anthem. If I want to change fork or stem looks like a problem. The carbon stem looks great but I would like to try a shorter one to dial fit.

  54. #254
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    QUOTE=BacDoc;10291102]This is why I asked for your feedback, you seem to have detailed working knowledge of the new Advanced bikes.

    It's a stripped down 2013 Advanced 1 XL supposedly in "new" condition. Comes with the RL fork and shock, Shimano BB, headset and 110 contact stem. My concern is crankset as I have built up several bikes and have always used threaded 68/73 BB. With those I could always get the chain line dialed with spacers. My current bike, AX 1 aluux has the press fit but the 2X10 was already there.

    The Anthems use a BB92 BB and the crank obviously has the axle attached. The only issue I could think you might run into is if the Q factor of your cranks is somehow too narrow. This is not likely. You can still use spacers with a press fit BB so if it is too loose, or if you don't like the spacing of the crank arms to the chainstays, add a spacer on that respective side.

    Another concern is the OD2 head set and fork and stem. Think the Sid will work but I had my Fox fork Pushed with travel increased to 120 and this worked great on my aluux Anthem. If I want to change fork or stem looks like a problem. The carbon stem looks great but I would like to try a shorter one to dial fit.

    You can still use your old fork, you'll just need to find a new top bearing for your OD2 headset. The outside diameter of the Giant headtube is the same as any other brands tapered HT. With OD2 they just use a smaller bearing to increase the inner diameter. Talk to your LBS to order one, they aren't expensive. [/QUOTE]
    I'm a mountain bike guide in southwest Utah

  55. #255
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    Thanks Foe! Might look you up in the future, got some riding buddies and we are looking to get some riding in Utah.

    Gt5050,
    I'm in Fl too and will post some pics once I get my 1X10 built. Enjoy your new ride!

  56. #256
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    2013 Anthem X 29er anybody?

    Quote Originally Posted by BacDoc View Post
    Thanks Foe! Might look you up in the future, got some riding buddies and we are looking to get some riding in Utah.

    Gt5050,
    I'm in Fl too and will post some pics once I get my 1X10 built. Enjoy your new ride!
    What part of FL? On the 1x10 topic, where I ride and the experience so far on this bike will probably have me sticking to the 38, or perhaps going to a 36 as a chainring. I don't feel a need for a shorter ratio anywhere I ride than my current big ring provides, which is a 38

  57. #257
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    Quote Originally Posted by BacDoc View Post
    Thanks Foe! Might look you up in the future, got some riding buddies and we are looking to get some riding in Utah.

    Gt5050,
    I'm in Fl too and will post some pics once I get my 1X10 built. Enjoy your new ride!
    Hey, anytime. I run Adventure Earth and do guided rides but I suck at it because I never charge anyone. I just like to ride with people. Like my page on facebook and if you're ever in the area, I'd be glad to show you all the goods.
    I'm a mountain bike guide in southwest Utah

  58. #258
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    GT, I'm in Vero Beach and the trail in Ft. Pierce is about 20 mi from my house and i ride there a lot - pretty cool single track and an " outlaw trail" a block from my front door.

    Been riding my 2011 Anthem 29 2X10 on these trails as well as Boyette and Santos and don't need all these gears. I lived in Santa Cruz for 4 years ( MTB heaven) and would even go 1X10 there. With 32 up front and 11-36 rear I can climb anything rideable (for me!) and can go low 20's before I spin out.

    The maestro Anthem design has been getting it done and I'm anxious to try the monarch on this carbon frame to see how the ride is.

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    2013 Anthem X 29er anybody?

    I'm a bit south of there but maybe I'll make it up that way sometime. I was thinking about the 1x10 a bit, and here's where I'm at - the 38 big ring on the bike now works anywhere I ride, I never touch the left triggers. However, it keeps me in the top half of my cassette for basically most of the time, and while the 38-36 combo gets me up any climb I hit, I may go smaller on the chainring when I go 1x. My reasoning is to keep my normal range of gears closer to the middle of the cassette w/ reserve on either end, and also to have a straighter chain line in my most frequently used gears. Does that sound like a good plan of attack?

  60. #260
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    Exactly! Find the gears you use most and build around that chain line. We need you! I ride with 3 others and usually travel north or west for riding opportunities but need some local knowledge on trails in your area. I will pm you for info.

    Enjoy that new bike!

  61. #261
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    The only problem with relying on a big ring only on the Ax29er is that the designs anti squat is based around having a small ring. You loose most of your antisquat in the big ring.I run 1 x 10 but with a 26 ring.All our downhill is technical and can't spin out even with a 26T. Can on the fire road but they are for climbing not descending.Even so, i'm still cracking a good pace spinning out a 26T.

  62. #262
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    gvs_nz,

    Thanks for the input! Please explain how the size front ring affects "anti squat". Rode my 2011 as 2X10 for 2 yrs and couldn't feel suspension diff big or small.

    Most of the time my ideal gearing on power strokes(for my trails) was big/big or small small and didn't like the look of the chain line in these gears. I ran 11-36 and 39/26 or what ever the SRAM 2X crank set is.

  63. #263
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    Braodly speaking the anti sqaut varies depending on chain posn relative to the pivot.
    The Ax29er has still got reasonable antisquat in 32T ring but your loosing a lot in anything much bigger.

    When I Endurance race I find that I am never out of the 24T ring on the trails we ride, so 26T or 27T was a good trail riding choice for me. But I don't do any road riding besides up long fire road climbs. Any flat trails are always still reasonably technical. As often as I can I'll trail ride for 4 to 6 hrs so conservative ring size to me is better than who can pull the biggest ring contest. My strength is cardio, not power.

    Here's data on antisquat values at 25% squat with different chainring combos.
    Attached Images Attached Images  
    Last edited by gvs_nz; 04-05-2013 at 03:35 PM.

  64. #264
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    2013 Anthem X 29er anybody?

    What Mountain Bike Trail Bike of the Year runner up is the Anthem X!
    http://youtu.be/FXhR9j1Hjo8

  65. #265
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    Quote Originally Posted by gvs_nz View Post
    Braodly speaking the anti sqaut varies depending on chain posn relative to the pivot.
    The Ax29er has still got reasonable antisquat in 32T ring but your loosing a lot in anything much bigger.

    When I Endurance race I find that I am never out of the 24T ring on the trails we ride, so 26T or 27T was a good trail riding choice for me. But I don't do any road riding besides up long fire road climbs. Any flat trails are always still reasonably technical. As often as I can I'll trail ride for 4 to 6 hrs so conservative ring size to me is better than who can pull the biggest ring contest. My strength is cardio, not power.

    Here's data on antisquat values at 25% squat with different chainring combos.
    Cool! But how do I interpret this? For example, my 1x10 with 32 up front and 11-36 cassette, I'm using the 15, 17 and 26, 30 cogs on the cassette 90% of of the time. At the extremes the % is 113%@11 and 90%@34- how does that equate to feel or performance?

    I'm thinking not much? I don't race but I like being dialed in with my gear and performance.

  66. #266
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    Quote Originally Posted by GT5050 View Post
    What Mountain Bike Trail Bike of the Year runner up is the Anthem X!
    Giant Anthem X29 - Trail Bike Of The Year 2013 Contender - YouTube
    Nice! And looks just like your bike!

  67. #267
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    Quote Originally Posted by BacDoc View Post
    Cool! But how do I interpret this? For example, my 1x10 with 32 up front and 11-36 cassette, I'm using the 15, 17 and 26, 30 cogs on the cassette 90% of of the time. At the extremes the % is 113%@11 and 90%@34- how does that equate to feel or performance?

    I'm thinking not much? I don't race but I like being dialed in with my gear and performance.
    Like I said not much using a 32t ring but others are talking about 38, 39T single ring set ups.

    Note 90% is still more than the TX 29er and most other longer travel 29ers have using 24T.

    But many other mfg also have moved to optimise there suspension for 28t rings. Something Giant hasn't done yet.

  68. #268
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    Quote Originally Posted by BacDoc View Post
    Nice! And looks just like your bike!
    And there's plenty of naysayers on these forums who keep on saying the Ax is only a xc bike.

    Obviously don't have their bike setup correct IMHO. Mine also has the F100 fork but RT3 shock.Only shortfall I can find as a trail bike is seated cush over bike G outs. Descending it can keep up with my 6" travel 26" bikes on most trails.

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    2013 Anthem X 29er anybody?

    On the 1x10, the discussion here as well as some quick math made me come to the conclusion that I will not be simply going to a 38 but something quite smaller. Thanks guys!

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    For those looking through the forums and wondering what an Anthem X1 weighs, I weighed my Medium 2013 X1 and it came to 26.6 without pedals, 27.38 with XT pedals on. That's with my Computer on, but I don't think that makes a huge difference. Going 1x10 on it soon just waiting for the parts to land - I don't have any lofty expectations of huge weight savings but it should help a bit.

    I will state that my bike is set up tubeless, though the shop did it and they used the yellow Stan's tape, which I recall reading probably doesn't get me any net weight savings over running the tubes. I think Silentfoe was talking about that somewhere else, I'll let him weigh in if he sees this post. Either way, I'm pretty happy with the "out of the box" weight on my bike. There are certainly a few good and easy opportunities for some weight savings without going into weenie mode, my only planned changes after the 1x10 are a carbon bar and lighter wheelset down the line as I'm pretty happy with the overall spec. Yes even the brakes.

  71. #271
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    Large Anthem X1 2013 came 27 lbs out of the box with no pedals. 27.8 lbs tubeless and Shimano PD-M520L Pedals (these are heavy pedals). Add one more pound for under-the-seat bag with CO2, tools, and supplies. But, the bike climbs hard and I don't feel it to be heavy. For comparison, the lightest bike I considered was a Specialized Stumpjumper hardtail. It came at 25 lbs for large.

  72. #272
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    2013 Anthem Advanced ZX1:



    1X10 Zee shifter and RD, SLX crank with 32 ring and BBG bashwich in these pics. Just installed a Wolf 34 but haven't ridden the bike with this yet.



    Head tube on the carbon frame is massive. Stem is 110 and would like to try 90 or 100.



    Zee RD and 11-36 XT cassette



    XT brakes work great



    Still need to trim cables and fine tune but so far very impressed with this bike.

  73. #273
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    BacDoc:
    This is one beautiful bike!!! Enjoy!

  74. #274
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    2013 Anthem X1 fork steerer tube and shock eye to eye length and stroke

    Ok, for my 2013 Anthem X1 29'er. What is the deal with the overdrive 2? Are my forks 1.5 tapered with some sort of Giant Overdrive 2 headset or a unique Giant Overdrive 2 steerer tube size and headset?

    Will my fork fit on another bike with 1.5 tapered?
    Do I need to order special Giant steerer tube shocks for my bike?

    What is the eye to eye length and stroke of the rear shock?

    thanks


  75. #275
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    delete post
    Last edited by morkys; 05-11-2013 at 02:37 PM.

  76. #276
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    Quick suggestions for rear shock and fork air pressure for a 195 # + rider? 2013 Anthem X1 29. Original Fox CTD fork and shock.

  77. #277
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    Re: 2013 Anthem X 29er anybody?

    80psi in the fork, 180 in the back.
    I'm a mountain bike guide in southwest Utah

  78. #278
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    Thanks. I need to recheck it before my next ride. I think I may not have had enough in the fork and shock this time. Still, it rode very well. I will check psi in shocks before next ride and give some more feedback. I am hoping possible low psi did not give me a false impression, but this bike is quick handling. As quick or quicker than my 26" Brodie Mettle FS bike. The AX1 29 is stock except for XTR pedals and XT brakes.

    2013 Anthem X 29er anybody?-untitled-1.jpg

    This is the rewarding view after a fairly long climb from the creek valley trail below.

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    2013 Anthem X 29er anybody?

    I am about the same weight and came up with very similar numbers to what silentfoe suggested, and it puts me right at the suggested sag. I also downloaded Fox's iPhone App (Fox Intelligent Ride Dynamics), and it also came up with similar numbers.

    For reference suggested sag is:
    Front: 15-19mm
    Rear: 8-10mm

  80. #280
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    2013 Anthem X 29er anybody?

    On a related note - I don't know about everyone else but I found it a bit troubling that my shop couldn't give me this setup info but rather I had to seek it out myself. To me this is a big gap in costumer service. Not all shops are this way, but man if you're selling bikes of this level or higher regularly (and they are) it baffles me that they wouldn't know how to set them up.

  81. #281
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    Agreed it's surprising they couldn't have given you at least a starting point or some guidelines on how to setup your suspension. My shop asked me my weight and dialed in my suspension before I left with my bike. Got it pretty much dead on also.

  82. #282
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    Quote Originally Posted by GT5050 View Post
    I am about the same weight and came up with very similar numbers to what silentfoe suggested, and it puts me right at the suggested sag. I also downloaded Fox's iPhone App (Fox Intelligent Ride Dynamics), and it also came up with similar numbers.

    For reference suggested sag is:
    Front: 15-19mm
    Rear: 8-10mm
    I like to use all my travel and run at least 12mm sag in the rear. The front is set so I just use all the travel onj the big hits. I'm 160lbs and use about 55 psi in the front[2011 F100RLC] and about 145psi in the rear. If i need to i'll run with mid platform or some propedal or in trail etc. That way you have a firmer initial feel but it will blow through on the bigger stuff to use all the travel. Much more capable trail bike that way.If you've only got 100mm of travel, best to use it all most of the time.

  83. #283
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    Climb mode on my CTD has failed. No resistance and then bangs into dampening 2/3-1/2 way down. 80 PSI in fork and rebound set to half-way. Anybody else have this problem? [CORRECTION] Trail mode seems "OK" as does descend mode, although they both have a change of feel part way down, past 1/2 travel. F100 RLC 26" fork does not have this. I wish I had an F100 RLC 29'er fork on this bike. Instead, I am entertaining the idea of an RS RLT or RCT3.

    Still, with the FOX CTD in Trail mode, I felt the bike climbed, turned and decended well. I am un-sure of what people mean by less than sharp handling. I tried to turn sharply into turns and through a switch back and didn't have any issue with the long chainstays. The bike tracked sharp and true. If anything, the stability reduced necessary body english. I like the feel of the long bars, but, they are an issue in tight turns with close trees, branches, and going through narrow sections. I am considering narrowing my bars a bit, but not much. I am not a big manual'er but with some pedal force and effort on the bars I could lift the front end up when needed, albeit, not catwalk high. BB height seemed ok. I tested fate rolling over some drop ruts on downhills, but remembered that the smaller chainring of the 2 x protected me there, plus I am used to timing my pedal strokes anyways. I don't know if its because the new bike seat is, well, new, but it felt really good, better than I thought since it doesn't have a split design. I rode my 26" yesterday and couldn't deal with sitting, the seat is that bad. I need a new seat for that bike.

    Overall experience on first ride (except for noticing the disappointing failure of Climb mode) was very positive.

    Anyone else have a Fox CTD with failed Climb mode? Can I keep riding it in Trail mode without fear of Trail mode self-destructing? I don't want to send this fork in and be without a bike for the long weekend.
    Last edited by morkys; 05-16-2013 at 09:40 AM.

  84. #284
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    Are there any local shops that do fox rebuilds? On my current bike everything's fine (2013 Anthem X1), but on my last bike the Fox Fork had issues on my second ride with it. I sent it to Fox for repair - though it was a quick turnaround and I was happy with everything, I found out later that there are some local shops who could have handled the work.

  85. #285
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    Quote Originally Posted by morkys View Post
    Climb mode on my CTD has failed. No resistance and then bangs into dampening 2/3-1/2 way down. 80 PSI in fork and rebound set to half-way. Anybody else have this problem? Trail mode seems the same as does descend mode, although they both have a change of feel part way down, past 1/2 travel. F100 RLC 26" fork does not have this. I wish I had an F100 RLC 29'er fork on this bike. Instead, I am entertaining the idea of an RS RLT or RCT3.

    Still, with the FOX CTD in Trail mode, I felt the bike climbed, turned and decended well. I am un-sure of what people mean by less than sharp handling. I tried to turn sharply into turns and through a switch back and didn't have any issue with the long chainstays. The bike tracked sharp and true. If anything, the stability reduced necessary body english. I like the feel of the long bars, but, they are any issue in tight turns with close trees, branches, and going through narrow sections. I am considering narrowing my bars a bit, but not much. I am not a big manual'er but with some pedal force and effort on the bars I could lift the front end up when needed, albeit, not catwalk high. BB height seemed ok. I tested fate rolling over some drop ruts on downhills, but remembered that the smaller chainring of the 2 x protected me there, plus I am used to timing my pedal strokes anyways. I don't know if its because the new bike seat is, well, new, but it felt really good, better than I thought since it doesn't have a split design. I rode my 26" yesterday and couldn't deal with sitting, the seat is that bad. I need a new seat for that bike.

    Overall experience on first ride (except for noticing the disappointing failure of Climb mode) was very positive.

    Anyone else have a Fox CTD with failed Climb mode? Can I keep riding it in Trail mode without fear of Trail mode self-destructing? I don't want to send this fork in and be without a bike for the long weekend.
    I'd just ride it in descend mode all the time until you can get it sorted.
    I ride my RLC wide open anyway. Just fine tune it with air pressure.On a 100mm fork, brake dive etc is just not an issue. Don't need all that other rubbish.Usually it just causes spiking anyway.

  86. #286
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    Any other AX1 29 riders with Fox CTD issues, particularly in Climb mode?

    I could try descend mode. I didn't find the fork very plush to begin with in Trail mode, not that it was bad. It could be faulty though. I read something on the singletrack forums where there was a recall, but it sounded more to do with the remote setup. I emailed Fox and have heard nothing back yet. I may check oil level at the very least. Is it easy enough for a person to check oil level?

  87. #287
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    Even though they have changed the air curves again, the descend mode should be the same as the pre CTD normal mode that uses factory set shimmed compression damping. Any trail , climb, ls compression etc is just introducing a type of platform system. Usually with a basic variable orifice. IMHO they all introduce some level of spiking.I haven't ridden any CTD forks though.

    WebHelp

    lower bath oil may, but I doubt cartridge oil level would be wrong.
    Check fork service info, possibly for a gen 3 O/B unless you have a FIt cartridge fork. The last part of the service will detail how to fill forks with oil. it's acomplete drain and refil process though, not a linear measurement.

    Best to put up a thread in the Suspension Forum to see if someone has had similar symptoms or if it's normal.

  88. #288
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    Thanks. I will check that link. I did put up thread, no reponses yet.

    OEM Fox CTD fork malfunctioning in Climb mode.

    My fork is oem and therefore OB not FIT.

    EDIT

    I phoned the shop and they say the fork would have to be sent in but I should be able to use it in Trail and/or Descend mode for now. If it doesn't have enough oil, hopefully my using it for a few days won't harm it, but, then again, it's not my fault it was sent this way and the shop did tell me it's ok to ride it for a few days, so...what can I do?

    One way I know something is wrong with the fork is that if I put it in Climb mode and then back to Trail, the Trail mode has a strange feeling mid-stroke, almost like a vague ghost of the feeling I had in Climb mode. If I then put it in Descend mode and pump the fork up and down, and back to Trail, the Trail mode feels better. Putting it in Climb mode always results in odd behavior.
    Last edited by morkys; 05-17-2013 at 08:05 AM.

  89. #289
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    Brough my bicycle into the shop. My forks will be sent away. One guy said 4 to 6 weeks and the other guy said 2 to 4 weeks. Not exactly the service I was hoping for with a brand new bike ridden 3 times. Some people have said the turn around could possibly be sooner, like less than 2 weeks, so here is hoping.

  90. #290
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    My experience with Fox is this is the peak season and they are very busy. I had my shock sent off on my last bike in the off season (January). Fox hooked my up with a red tag expedited service because the shock was only a couple weeks old. The service only took about 3 days but with shipping I was out about 2.5 weeks. Fox second day shipped back to me from CA to GA. Good luck. I hope your shop got you some sort of expedited service.
    2017 Fuel EX 9

  91. #291
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    Quote Originally Posted by morkys View Post
    Brough my bicycle into the shop. My forks will be sent away. One guy said 4 to 6 weeks and the other guy said 2 to 4 weeks. Not exactly the service I was hoping for with a brand new bike ridden 3 times. Some people have said the turn around could possibly be sooner, like less than 2 weeks, so here is hoping.
    This is why I have switched everything to Rock Shox. Super simple for shops to wok on so no need to send out plus they are in Chicago so if I have an issue turnaround would be way faster than shipping all the way to California.

  92. #292
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    I bought a 2013 AX1 in September last year and only road it a few times until this year when I started noticing a clunk like the fork was topping out. Took it to the shop and the Fox rep happened to be there. He took one look at the fork and said the damper units in that model were faulty. He grabbed a new one, the shop mechanic installed it and everything is fine.
    Just letting you know there are some bad Fox parts out there.

  93. #293
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ranger Pride View Post
    This is why I have switched everything to Rock Shox. Super simple for shops to wok on so no need to send out plus they are in Chicago so if I have an issue turnaround would be way faster than shipping all the way to California.
    This is not a complexity issue at all. I am sure someone can work on the Fox as well as RS. The issue here is warranty. If it were RS it would have to be sent out just like the Fox stuff. Giant or Giant dealer does not perform the warranty repair on Fox or RS.
    2017 Fuel EX 9

  94. #294
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    Quote Originally Posted by stygz1 View Post
    This is not a complexity issue at all. I am sure someone can work on the Fox as well as RS. The issue here is warranty. If it were RS it would have to be sent out just like the Fox stuff. Giant or Giant dealer does not perform the warranty repair on Fox or RS.
    Gotcha. Warranty issue is definitely what it is right now. It would be nice to get a replacement plain and simple right off the bat.

  95. #295
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    Too bad your suspension failed. I have been riding (sometimes abusing) mine for the past couple of months with no issue (I'll keep fingers crossed).

  96. #296
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    Quote Originally Posted by stygz1 View Post
    This is not a complexity issue at all. I am sure someone can work on the Fox as well as RS. The issue here is warranty. If it were RS it would have to be sent out just like the Fox stuff. Giant or Giant dealer does not perform the warranty repair on Fox or RS.
    I guess for me it is just faster to get warranty work taken care of with Rock Shox because they are only one state over from me. For a Fox warranty I would be shipping across the country.

  97. #297
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    Fixed and back on my bike at the shop in 9 days. Replaced a bunch of parts. All seems good. Works waaaay better so far just by feel. Climb mode is a nice full lockout. Trail seems smoother and descend seems plusher. Kudo's to the store and the rep for taking Fox fork and zipping it out, getting it fixed and back to the shop pretty quickly considering. I will ride tomorrow (well, later today after I wake up) and report back.

  98. #298
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    Rode the bike and all is good with the Fox CTD fork. All modes work as they should. I like the Climb mode for riding on the road to the trail as the platform threshold is high and the bike doesn't squish at all. Trail mode seems to feel better. I tried Descend mode on some downhills and it felt like there was more of a difference this time vs Trail mode.

    Thanks to the bike store D'ornellas, the distributor and/or Fox rep and Fox for getting this fixed and back literally in about a week.

  99. #299
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    A few questions for Anthem X 29 riders. I have the X1.

    1) My Fox Shox performance has changed. It was fine for a while after getting it back from being repaired, but now it seems on bumpy downhills the fork is overwhelmed and overly bouncy. I am about the same weight and have been using the same PSI in fork and shock. I have been playing with rebound to see if it helps but it doesn't seem to. Has anybody had a change or decrease in Fox fork and/or shock performance?

    2) Has anybody upgraded to XT brakes? If so, were you able to combine your SLX shifters with the XT brake levers? There is an i-spec system and it's confusing.

    3) On climbs when I am out of the saddle I seem to be losing traction more often than I'm used to. Is this because of the longer chainstays? I may try a slightly shorter stem or different tires. The Racing Ralph don't have a whole lot of bite. In search of improvement here, I am not saying this bike is terrible at climbing.

  100. #300
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    What psi are you running? How much do you weigh? Yes, you can combine slx and xt. Climbing is all about technique. Adjust to your bike and learn where it likes you to be to get the best bite. The Anthems are much better seated climbers BTW.
    I'm a mountain bike guide in southwest Utah

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