Page 2 of 2 FirstFirst 1 2
Results 26 to 43 of 43
  1. #26
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Dec 2012
    Posts
    82
    Quote Originally Posted by NateHawk View Post
    this issue you're posting about is probably the exact reason they aren't available in the US.
    Of course.....

  2. #27
    Rep Power: Infinity
    Reputation: NateHawk's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2003
    Posts
    12,711
    Quote Originally Posted by larsd View Post
    Of course.....
    basic product safety. b!tch however much you want about how the US regulates some things too much, but we're picky on product safety over here for a reason. it's hard enough for bike shop employees to teach the masses how to use a basic Shimano QR correctly, and in spite of their best attempts, many people never get it. Add this design which allows you to "tighten" the QR lever into the spokes or the brake rotor and you have a recipe for disaster.

    that lever is a bad design. expensive products sometimes do have bad designs. suck it up and move on, princess.

  3. #28
    Front Range, Colorado
    Reputation: DIRTJUNKIE's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2000
    Posts
    21,389
    Quote Originally Posted by Fix the Spade View Post
    Those things aren't safe, send them back.

    As you describe it, it sounds like they don't have a stop, so than can loosen in either direction, that's bad.

    Send them back to wherever they came from and use Shimano skewers if you like the way internal cam designs look. They're the best anyway, XTR is light and the Deore ones are cheap, pick one and never worry about a loose skewer again.
    "they're the best anyway "
    That's a rather blanket statement. Skewers are a simple design, it's not rocket science. Sure Shimano makes some good ones but whose to say they are the best. There are plenty of companies these days making as good or better depending on who you talk to.
    ----------- __o
    --------- _`\<,_
    BRAAP(>)/ (*)
    ************^^^^^^Rock Garden
    http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qqpcBpSsj1A

  4. #29
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Dec 2012
    Posts
    82
    Quote Originally Posted by NateHawk View Post
    basic product safety. b!tch however much you want about how the US regulates some things too much, but we're picky on product safety over here for a reason. it's hard enough for bike shop employees to teach the masses how to use a basic Shimano QR correctly, and in spite of their best attempts, many people never get it. Add this design which allows you to "tighten" the QR lever into the spokes or the brake rotor and you have a recipe for disaster.

    that lever is a bad design. expensive products sometimes do have bad designs. suck it up and move on, princess.
    Yeah, we in Europe do not have any regulations at all you know. We are running around with sticks, poking each other in the streets.

    At least we do not have to print "Do not attempt to swallow" on our Mattresses over here...

  5. #30
    mtbr member
    Reputation: portnoy's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
    Posts
    268
    Most of these "design experts" are talking out of their asses. Tune is very well engineered, light, and reliable. Contact them directly. The drivel I'm reading here is amazing regarding "cheap and trash." That said, the reason to buy Tune QRs is weight and mud resistance. If that's not an issue Mavic, Hope, and may others make QRs that will work fine. And, of course, put them on correctly as others have informed you.
    I'll be along... eventually.

  6. #31
    mtbr member
    Reputation: acer66's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2010
    Posts
    396
    Quote Originally Posted by NateHawk View Post
    basic product safety. b!tch however much you want about how the US regulates some things too much, but we're picky on product safety over here for a reason. it's hard enough for bike shop employees to teach the masses how to use a basic Shimano QR correctly, and in spite of their best attempts, many people never get it. Add this design which allows you to "tighten" the QR lever into the spokes or the brake rotor and you have a recipe for disaster.

    that lever is a bad design. expensive products sometimes do have bad designs. suck it up and move on, princess.
    How about reading, understanding and following the instructions?
    Not saying that the op is not doing that but there are a lot of people over in Germany etc. using these without problems.
    I am also not saying these are fail proof or perfect you just have to put a little more effort in using these.

  7. #32
    Front Range, Colorado
    Reputation: DIRTJUNKIE's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2000
    Posts
    21,389
    Quote Originally Posted by msylvan View Post
    Most of these "design experts" are talking out of their asses. Tune is very well engineered, light, and reliable. Contact them directly. The drivel I'm reading here is amazing regarding "cheap and trash." That said, the reason to buy Tune QRs is weight and mud resistance. If that's not an issue Mavic, Hope, and may others make QRs that will work fine. And, of course, put them on correctly as others have informed you.
    Yuuup! ^^^ 100% agree.
    ----------- __o
    --------- _`\<,_
    BRAAP(>)/ (*)
    ************^^^^^^Rock Garden
    http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qqpcBpSsj1A

  8. #33
    banned
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Sep 2012
    Posts
    1,510
    Quote Originally Posted by larsd View Post
    Yeah, we in Europe do not have any regulations at all you know. We are running around with sticks, poking each other in the streets.

    At least we do not have to print "Do not attempt to swallow" on our Mattresses over here...
    It's really less about regulations and more about liability lawsuits in this country.

    ...and to be honest, I'd also be worried that the "contoured" (read pointy) lever ends could pose an impalement risk in a hard crash. So basically, if it flips inwards, it gets caught in the brake rotor or spokes. If it accidentally flips outwards slightly (or more during the microseconds of a crash) it poses a safety hazard.

    I understand that beauty is in the eye of the beholder, but some of us here would rather make safety a higher priority. Besides, are you such a weenie that 37grams makes all that difference?

    Get some new skewers, or use those that came with your Mavic wheels. They work perfectly fine.

    -S

  9. #34
    duh
    Reputation: deke505's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2012
    Posts
    6,603
    Quote Originally Posted by Hutch3637 View Post
    Just a thought... have you tried flipping the QR so the lever is on the opposite side of the disk? Example below... btw the QR in the pic is a Tune DC17.

    Attachment 748711

    Agree with everyone else though, looks to be a poor design. If you want light and don't care about price look at the DT Swiss RWS Ti if your a weight weenie or just save money and get a Shimano QR.
    ^^ this your locking lever should be on the non disk side.
    Quote Originally Posted by girlonbike View Post
    You guys have reached for a new low.

  10. #35
    pedal pusher
    Reputation: f3rg's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2007
    Posts
    2,715
    I don't get why everyone is so bent on using QRs. Seriously, you should have a 5mm wrench of some kind with you anyway, so why not just use bolt-on skewers? I get that QRs are faster to use in racing conditions, but if you're just riding for fun, then what's the point?

    I've had the same pair of Control Tech titanium bolt-ons on my bike(s) since 1999. They've lasted through 2 frames, 4 forks, and out-lasted basically every other part I've ever had. Total weight is 42 grams, there are no levers to bend or get stuck, nothing to grab on weeds, no finicky cams.

  11. #36
    banned
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Sep 2012
    Posts
    1,510
    Quote Originally Posted by f3rg View Post
    I don't get why everyone is so bent on using QRs. Seriously, you should have a 5mm wrench of some kind with you anyway, so why not just use bolt-on skewers? I get that QRs are faster to use in racing conditions, but if you're just riding for fun, then what's the point?
    I obsessively fiddle with my bike(s). Can't leave it more than a day before I do some thing or other to it, so the QR makes it easier/quicker to work on. LOL

    -S

  12. #37
    Is not amused
    Reputation: Hutch3637's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2011
    Posts
    3,768
    Quote Originally Posted by deke505 View Post
    ^^ this your locking lever should be on the non disk side.
    Because why? Some say it doesn't matter which side it's on.... but IMO for 9mm drop outs sometimes it's better to run it this way because some people find that it keeps itself tighter over time then on the disk side. Just saying... Still think you should ditch that one or call Tune.
    Yip yip yip nope nope nope

  13. #38
    mtbr member
    Reputation: acer66's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2010
    Posts
    396
    Quote Originally Posted by shibiwan View Post
    I obsessively fiddle with my bike(s). Can't leave it more than a day before I do some thing or other to it, so the QR makes it easier/quicker to work on. LOL

    -S
    What a relief, I am not alone with that urge.

    Quote Originally Posted by Hutch3637 View Post
    Because why? Some say it doesn't matter which side it's on.... but IMO for 9mm drop outs sometimes it's better to run it this way because some people find that it keeps itself tighter over time then on the disk side. Just saying... Still think you should ditch that one or call Tune.
    Not sure if the OP's model has that, but there is a model which is knurled only on one side which is the disk side.

  14. #39
    duh
    Reputation: deke505's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2012
    Posts
    6,603
    Quote Originally Posted by Hutch3637 View Post
    Because why? Some say it doesn't matter which side it's on.... but IMO for 9mm drop outs sometimes it's better to run it this way because some people find that it keeps itself tighter over time then on the disk side. Just saying... Still think you should ditch that one or call Tune.
    Well that is the way I was taught, a few reasons why is:

    1) I was told it keeps it tighter 9 never tried the other way)
    2) when you take the wheel off or on your hand will have a less likely chance of running against the disk.
    3) it looks a little less cluttered on one side.

    But like I said it was the way I was taught, so I guess I thought that was the way is was suppose to go, never really questioned it.
    Quote Originally Posted by girlonbike View Post
    You guys have reached for a new low.

  15. #40
    Front Range, Colorado
    Reputation: DIRTJUNKIE's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2000
    Posts
    21,389
    [QUOTE=f3rg;10018723]I don't get why everyone is so bent on using QRs. Seriously, you should have a 5mm wrench of some kind with you anyway, so why not just use bolt-on skewers? I get that QRs are faster to use in racing conditions, but if you're just riding for fun, then what's the point.



    Ummm because it's all about the levers....I mean..
    Cosmo Kramer invention #3 - YouTube
    ----------- __o
    --------- _`\<,_
    BRAAP(>)/ (*)
    ************^^^^^^Rock Garden
    http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qqpcBpSsj1A

  16. #41
    Rep Power: Infinity
    Reputation: NateHawk's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2003
    Posts
    12,711
    I have personal experience with a particular crappy skewer (Specialized Skraxle) loosening when the lever was on the disc side. It can happen, but it has not occurred on any shimano, salsa, or mavic skewers I've used since.

    Now I run the lever on the non disc side to keep my fingers out of the rotor for the most part. Wish that worked for the rear but I think that is a case of lesser of two evils

  17. #42
    Front Range, Colorado
    Reputation: DIRTJUNKIE's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2000
    Posts
    21,389
    Quote Originally Posted by NateHawk View Post
    I have personal experience with a particular crappy skewer (Specialized Skraxle) loosening when the lever was on the disc side. It can happen, but it has not occurred on any shimano, salsa, or mavic skewers I've used since.

    Now I run the lever on the non disc side to keep my fingers out of the rotor for the most part. Wish that worked for the rear but I think that is a case of lesser of two evils
    I have tried Shimano and Salsa both work fine. But I have always ran my lever on the left side, same side as the brake rotor. It has always been that way and would feel unnatural if I switched. One good thing about running it on that side, is when tightening the lever you can use the rotor for leverage with your fingers.

    Oh and another thing I have always done is to run the lever so it folds to the back of the bike. This is to keep it from catching on a branch or something and opening up. It also folds nicely under the bottom of the fork.
    ----------- __o
    --------- _`\<,_
    BRAAP(>)/ (*)
    ************^^^^^^Rock Garden
    http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qqpcBpSsj1A

  18. #43
    banned
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Sep 2012
    Posts
    1,510
    Quote Originally Posted by DIRTJUNKIE, View Post
    Oh and another thing I have always done is to run the lever so it folds to the back of the bike. This is to keep it from catching on a branch or something and opening up. It also folds nicely under the bottom of the fork.
    Yes, that's what I've been doing all this time too... like this:



    -S

Page 2 of 2 FirstFirst 1 2

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •