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Torx bolts... really? Did some GM engineers wander into the bike world?
I just built a Jeep CJ from the frame up. I joked with some friends (Jeeps guys) that the reason I was doing it was to A) have a Jeep without rust, and B) have a Jeep without Torx bolts. Mission accomplished.... for a year or so, until it starts to rust.
So then I got a Scalpel a couple weeks ago, and there are those little torx bolts. My first thought was that maybe torx bolts are capable of higher torque before stripping - as compared to allen bolts? But then why are they in places that require very little torque, e.g. shifter and brake lever clamps?
Did the TBAA (Torx Bolt Association of America) higher a new lobbyist?
And if this is old news, I apologize. I tend to only surface into the new product discussions every couple years when it's time for a new bike... then disappear again.
Mountain bikers who don't road ride are usually slow.
Roadies who don't mountain bike are usually d***s.
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I really dislike torx bolts. I have ran across them in many cars I have worked on over the years and cursed them every time. I curse them every time I have to change a brake rotor. It seems avid is a fan of these things.
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I think they're less likely to strip than an allan.
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Less likely to round out than allen heads, which is a bigger problem the smaller the bolt, which makes them a good idea for brake rotors.
The bolt head is stronger because there is more material which makes them a better choice for aluminum and probably ti bolts. This is a good idea for chainring bolts.
After that, it is just creeping in everywhere for probably no reason other than you have to use and carry less tools if your bike is all allen or all torx. I'll get used to torx eventually.
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A superior interface that should have become the standard in cycling a very long time ago.
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 Originally Posted by Dirty $anchez
A superior interface that should have become the standard in cycling a very long time ago.
Yup.
Los
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Torx bolts... really? Did some GM engineers wander into the bike world?
They seem great to me and the heads do seem less likely to round out. Bring them on.
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It may be that only car guys are jaded. Working on cars comes with rust, tight access, bigger/heavier parts with tighter bolts... The torx bits can be a pain in the ass. In a typical tool box, even a DIY mechanic will have about 10 ways to grab a 1/2" bolt - sockets (standard, deep-well), open wrenches, box wrenches, etc. With torx bits, there's usually that one set. So, assuming you can find the right size, you're good... right up 'til the bit twists (that's how they usually fail for me). I think we just learn to hate the torx heads.
Mountain bikers who don't road ride are usually slow.
Roadies who don't mountain bike are usually d***s.
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Torx bolts... really? Did some GM engineers wander into the bike world?
I can see the ops point and imagine laying under that Jeep snapping off rusty bolt heads - I've worked on old cars before and can feel the pain. I like working on bikes much better. But clean non-rusty bolts on bikes are another thing all together. Most seem to be the same size too, which helps. These are even starting to get used on stems I understand.
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 Originally Posted by SS Hack
These are even starting to get used on stems I understand.
Great... now I need a torx torque wrench ;-)
Mountain bikers who don't road ride are usually slow.
Roadies who don't mountain bike are usually d***s.
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mtbr member
Reputation:
Jsut picked up an Epic. first new MTB in over 12 years. Was stunned to see all the torx bolts as well. I know they are supposed to allwo higher torque on smaller bolt heads, but I think its a conspiracy to make me buy more tools.
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 Originally Posted by Mr moab
Jsut picked up an Epic. first new MTB in over 12 years. Was stunned to see all the torx bolts as well. I know they are supposed to allwo higher torque on smaller bolt heads, but I think its a conspiracy to make me buy more tools.
Tim Allen approves this message ... Ar Ar, Ar Ar, Ar
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 Originally Posted by Dirty $anchez
A superior interface that should have become the standard in cycling a very long time ago.
Amen, I don't like them, I LoVe them.. plus the bike thieves don't carry tools for them so far (I hope)
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 Originally Posted by OldZaskar
I just built a Jeep CJ from the frame up. I joked with some friends (Jeeps guys) that the reason I was doing it was to A) have a Jeep without rust, and B) have a Jeep without Torx bolts. Mission accomplished.... for a year or so, until it starts to rust.
So then I got a Scalpel a couple weeks ago, and there are those little torx bolts. My first thought was that maybe torx bolts are capable of higher torque before stripping - as compared to allen bolts? But then why are they in places that require very little torque, e.g. shifter and brake lever clamps?
Did the TBAA (Torx Bolt Association of America) higher a new lobbyist?
And if this is old news, I apologize. I tend to only surface into the new product discussions every couple years when it's time for a new bike... then disappear again.
No, but apparently you did recently. Amiright? 
Torx rules. They should make all bolts Torx heads. Problem is, you have to keep your tools new and in good shape or they can strip out. Thing is, you can apply way more torque to a Torx bolt than a traditional allen bolt before stripping the head out.
This is especially a big problem on rotor bolts. There isn't much clearance between the rotor surface and the leg of a fork, so you can't put tall bolts in there. The bolt heads have to be pretty low, and with traditional allen bolts that means they strip out easily. My Hope Mono Minis came with allen head rotor bolts, and I have to use my best, most precise allen wrench with a sharp/square edge, or the wrench just slips off of them. It's always a delicate operation to remove my Hope rotors.
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 Originally Posted by Dirty $anchez
A superior interface that should have become the standard in cycling a very long time ago.
bingo. they are idiot proof.
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Here's some irony (remember, i'm the OP on this thread)... last week I stripped down my old mountain bike to rebuild it as a single speed. I had LizardSkins lock-on grips on the bar. And boy where they locked on. One allen bolt on each grip stripped. I had to cut the bolts with a Dremel. Makes ya wonder... would the torx have held up ;-)
Mountain bikers who don't road ride are usually slow.
Roadies who don't mountain bike are usually d***s.
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mtbr member
Reputation:
torx is basically a spline drive...about the best torque interface that there is. Years ago I was an engineer for a company with an h logo that makes orange chainsaws. We used torx because hex rounded out tools too quickly. In a production environment, tool wear can happen rapidly and be a substantial cost. Additionally, a worn hex tool partially destroys the fastener. Assembly workers typically do not care what the inside of the recess look like after they drive the fastener, only that they get it done as quick as possible. Torx is insurance for quality.
Last edited by texancyclist; 03-14-2013 at 01:15 PM.
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 Originally Posted by OldZaskar
Here's some irony (remember, i'm the OP on this thread)... last week I stripped down my old mountain bike to rebuild it as a single speed. I had LizardSkins lock-on grips on the bar. And boy where they locked on. One allen bolt on each grip stripped. I had to cut the bolts with a Dremel. Makes ya wonder... would the torx have held up ;-)
I had the same problem the other day with a lock on grip. The end of that tiny bolt went flying when I cut it through, sounded like a bb hitting something ... somewhere .. glad it wasn't glass it hit.
If in doubt, assume sarcasm
Canfield Nimble 9 * WTB Phoenix * Salsa Big Mama
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 Originally Posted by wv_bob
I had the same problem the other day with a lock on grip. The end of that tiny bolt went flying when I cut it through, sounded like a bb hitting something ... somewhere .. glad it wasn't glass it hit.
Ha! Exact same thing here "PING!!!" Never found the end of one of the bolts.
Mountain bikers who don't road ride are usually slow.
Roadies who don't mountain bike are usually d***s.
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The only downside of Torx bolts is that you need the right tool, which isn't a big one.
Funny how some people complain about buying Torx keys, but are happy to buy a new set of allen keys every once in a while when they are worn out.
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Torx bolts... really? Did some GM engineers wander into the bike world?
I didn't think anyone "bought" allen wrenches... thought you just collected them from all the Ikea furniture. ;-)
Mountain bikers who don't road ride are usually slow.
Roadies who don't mountain bike are usually d***s.
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I sharpen the end of my torx when they get worn or use it on a suspect screw. I do prefer nutted heads on stuff that will see corrosion like auto brake hardware, especially with the air wrench and a 6 point socket.
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 Originally Posted by OldZaskar
I didn't think anyone "bought" allen wrenches... thought you just collected them from all the Ikea furniture. ;-)
LMAO... how spot-on is that?
Then again, Ikea uses really cheap steel in their wrenches. They wear pretty fast when you use them more than a few times.
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On the upside you're more likely to damage the PoS tool rather than the bolt head.
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Good tools makes the diff, on a jeep you buy a Mac or Snapon T45 3/8 drive for around $22.On a bike I am using a VIM T25 in 1/4 drive.These are tools that last a lifetime and do not strip the bolts(when correctly used). For all the rest of the sizes I feel most any other brand is fine(not Harbor Freight)
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