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  1. #1
    MC MasterShake
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    Time ATAC ROC S vs. Time ATAC XS

    My 06 XS pedals are worn out and I'm looking to replace them. I liked the XS but I prefer the feeling of the older Time Pedals. I also liked that the old ones were durable while I seem to go through the XS pedals every 2 years. Does anyone have any riding time on the ROC's? Supposedly they have a bigger platform, is it noticeable?

  2. #2
    local trails rider
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    How do you break your XS? Or what goes wrong with them?

    Mine are from 2005 and I think I just need to replace the cleats.

  3. #3
    MC MasterShake
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    The bars get loose. Tightening them down with the adjustment screws helps for about a year then they loosen with the adjustment screw set all the way tight. They still work but there's a lot of play in them when you pull up. The old style never loosened up.

    I ride a lot of rock gardens so the pedals get slammed against rocks a lot.

  4. #4
    local trails rider
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    So your's is not just the cleats wearing out?
    The cleats are relatively soft and my old pair looks pretty different from the spare set I have.

  5. #5
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    worn out times

    I have similar problems with worn out Atacs. My retaining bars are bent up and worn to the point of being somewhat diamond shaped in profile rather than the rectangular original. I ride lots of rocks, but also get on and off the bike a lot. I've replaced cleats every 6 months or so, and new cleats just aren't fixing the problem anymore.

    The real kicker is that it appears that new bars are $25 apiece through LBS/QBP, making replacement of both sides of both pedals a $100 proposition. While nothing else seems to need replacement immediately, I imagine the springs are worn, and certainly the bodies reflect the rocks and shoe-related wear. Sucks to have a set of $200plus Ti models and have to spend $100+ to "rebuild" them after a couple of years. I like the feel/action on the Times enough that I will probably just buy the Carbons and either swap out my Ti spindles and/or figure on replacing the pedals every couple of years.

    Does anybody have better info/pricing on new retaining bars? I have learned that they are steel across all models.

  6. #6
    Jesus loved the dinosaurs
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    I have a couple of pairs of the older ATAC pedals (yellow rectangular ones), and when I built my new bike, I used the newer ATAC's.

    I liked the older design better. It seemed to engage and unclip more "confidently", and the cleats lasted longer. I've been considering switching back when this newest set of cleats wear out.

  7. #7
    May contain nuts
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    Yeah the bars do wear quite a bit, leading to a bit of slop. Anyone got a better price on them?

  8. #8
    MC MasterShake
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    Quote Originally Posted by benlineberry
    I have a couple of pairs of the older ATAC pedals (yellow rectangular ones), and when I built my new bike, I used the newer ATAC's.

    I liked the older design better. It seemed to engage and unclip more "confidently", and the cleats lasted longer. I've been considering switching back when this newest set of cleats wear out.
    I tried the older design and while I do like it better I had problems with the right shoe unclipping for some strange reason. The bars are tighter and much more secure but there is more side to side play.

    I think I've had enough. I'm going to jump ship and try the Crank Brothers Acid pedals. It's too bad because I've always loved the feel of Time pedals but they don't seem to be concerned about any sort of progress. Every year you get the same basic pedal w/a different name on it. I think they have 6 models that are based on the XS pedal with only minor differences???

  9. #9
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    Wow I'm glad i found this thread searching. I have a set of old Time Atac Z's that are just about wore out. I have over 1400 miles on them and the cleats. The left pedal has a tiny click on the upstroke that just started about 150 miles ago.. I love these pedals and was thinking about getting the new version, but now I think I will buy the round bar type. Don't want to mess with success!
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  10. #10
    local trails rider
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    Quote Originally Posted by Haggis
    Yeah the bars do wear quite a bit, leading to a bit of slop.
    I believe now...

    I recently got a pair of Roc Carbons and they feel much tighter than the old XS pair that is still on the other bike. The Roc also seems to make entry easier, at least with my shoes.

  11. #11
    a e i o u and sometimes y
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    diggin up this old thread.. Can anyone tell me if the ROC pedals have bars that connect top to bottom? IE, will smacking a rock knock me unclipped?

    I currently run the XS with the tension adjusting pin. After bashing it on rocks for a while, I've knocked the pin to the point where it will not stay put in the highest tension... I had to drive screws in to hold it in place. As such, I'm looking to get the non-adjustable ROC ATAC S... but in all the pics, it appears to have an adjusting pin with the " ---- + " tension graphic.

    Can someone with the ROC S confirm and/or give me a review of the pedal and amt of tension in the clip?

    Thanks !
    America eats its young.

  12. #12
    MC MasterShake
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    Quote Originally Posted by Brizn
    diggin up this old thread.. Can anyone tell me if the ROC pedals have bars that connect top to bottom? IE, will smacking a rock knock me unclipped?

    I currently run the XS with the tension adjusting pin. After bashing it on rocks for a while, I've knocked the pin to the point where it will not stay put in the highest tension... I had to drive screws in to hold it in place. As such, I'm looking to get the non-adjustable ROC ATAC S... but in all the pics, it appears to have an adjusting pin with the " ---- + " tension graphic.

    Can someone with the ROC S confirm and/or give me a review of the pedal and amt of tension in the clip?

    Thanks !
    I'm pretty sure they don't connect top to bottom. When I hit rock I don't get unclipped. That used to always happen to me with Crank Bros. pedals.

    I too went through the Atac XS pedals way too quickly. I'd get maybe a season out of them if I was lucky. My ROC does not have a tension adjust but you don't need it. The ROC has the same design as the old school atac's which never lost their tension. I ride the ROC's on my XC bike and the Z pedals on my AM/FR bike. They both have the old school design and the tension never loosens up even after years of use. I have broken the bars on these pedals but that's after size-able pedal strikes and years of use. To me there is no other pedal. I've burned through Crank Bros and Shimano pedals and I always come back to the Times.

  13. #13
    a e i o u and sometimes y
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    Quote Originally Posted by woodyak
    My ROC does not have a tension adjust
    ... right, but in every pic i see of it online, there's still the adjusting pin. does yours have a pin of some sort?
    America eats its young.

  14. #14
    local trails rider
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    The Carbons have the 1, 2, 3 adjustment anyway. I just check they are both at "1" and forget about it.

    (2 summers, and some winter riding, gone on ROC Carbons now: no issues)

  15. #15
    Its got what plants crave
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    This thread makes me sad.. I have two pairs of ATAC Carbons from back in the day that I'm still using, but the bearings are developing play
    Ocala Mountain Bike Association - www.omba.org

  16. #16
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    Yeah, me too. Just broke the spring in two on my trusty atac carbons from 8 or 9 years ago, and I don't like what I'm reading. Maybe I just need to look into rebuilding these.

  17. #17
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    Quote Originally Posted by Brizn
    ... right, but in every pic i see of it online, there's still the adjusting pin. does yours have a pin of some sort?

    they all have tension adjustment now except for the aluminums and the z control
    they all have the top to bottom bar/ spring too so they unclip when struck from the bottom
    except the aluminums and zcontrol
    in my opinion except for the old style, aluminum and zcontrol they all suck now, very similar design to the crank bros. which also suck

    Im still using z control and aluminums on my winter rides because NOTHING is better in mud or snow. But for normal use Ive gone to shimano

  18. #18
    mnt bike laws of physics
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    FWIW, I just switched back to Time after years with the eggbeaters.
    I started with the old ATAC Times which I still have. I like the New (to me) EX model which they don't make anymore but are still available through Nashbar and other places. They are the non-adjustable version of the SX. I've only been usin them a month or so, but they are super stable...much more than the eggbeaters. And I haven't released prematurely yet which happened all the time with the eggs.

    I think some of the problem with the looseness could be the shoes. Pedals rely on the soles as a platform and when the soles wear out, any pedal will get sloppy.

  19. #19
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    Quote Originally Posted by dan0
    they all have tension adjustment now except for the aluminums and the z control
    they all have the top to bottom bar/ spring too so they unclip when struck from the bottom
    except the aluminums and zcontrol
    in my opinion except for the old style, aluminum and zcontrol they all suck now, very similar design to the crank bros. which also suck

    Im still using z control and aluminums on my winter rides because NOTHING is better in mud or snow. But for normal use Ive gone to shimano
    Roc ATAC (without XS) have the same round bar/spring as the Z-Control, so no unexpected release.The Zs are relatively cheap and confortable with more casual shoes.
    Roc ATAC XS are more similar to CB. Im using these in a road bike, hopefully theyll not hit the ground.
    STFU and HTFU. - Fo, circa 2009

  20. #20
    Its got what plants crave
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    Quote Originally Posted by doismellbacon
    Yeah, me too. Just broke the spring in two on my trusty atac carbons from 8 or 9 years ago, and I don't like what I'm reading. Maybe I just need to look into rebuilding these.

    If you do, will you let me know where you got the parts or if they're available at all? My springs are fine, but my bearings are getting dangerously close to being wasted.


    Edit: I searched Qbike and it brought up a few Ebay auctions for ceramic bearing kits in the 50 dollar range. Still they say they are for road riding or "relatively clean" riding conditions, and I don't fit either of those classifications. But it tells me that they are at least replaceable.
    Ocala Mountain Bike Association - www.omba.org

  21. #21
    Its got what plants crave
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    Here is the response from Time customer service regarding my bearings.

    Hello,

    The bearings are common size and can be ordered from various bicycle or bearing suppliers

    The cartridge bearings can be replaced by a shop or the end used. The internal needle bearing is not replaceable.

    RXS, Impact and 2nd generation ATAC (with threaded aluminum ring)


    Dimensions: I.D. 12mm / O.D. 21mm / thickness 5mm



    QBP part # BB8801

    BTI part # AB-6801



    Note: Internal needle bearing is not replaceable.


    Thank you

    Time Sport USA

    Not sure what they mean by internal needle bearing, as I have never actually opened the pedals myself.
    Ocala Mountain Bike Association - www.omba.org

  22. #22
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    I rode the old school ATAC since ~1998. When the bearings finally went, I got the cheapest ROC model. They feel just like the old ones, maybe even a little more secure. Could be that the spring was getting a little weak on my old pair.

    My ROC does have the tension adjust. Any difference in the platform is not noticable, since the bars are in the way anyhow.

    The clips are not interconnected on both sides of the pedal. Rock strikes do not cause it to release like the Crank Bros design.

    In my opinion, anyone who loved the old style ATAC or Alium will be just as happy with the ROC. Although it remains to be seen how the bearings will hold up (have 1 full year on mine so far).

  23. #23
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jim311
    Not sure what they mean by internal needle bearing, as I have never actually opened the pedals myself.
    If you pull the spindle out, the end closest to the crank will have a regular cartidge bearing clipped onto it. This is the replaceable one. The other end of the spindle is like a smooth cylinder that rolls on needle bearings embedded deep in the pedal body.

    Your needle bearings are probably ok, since they are less exposed to contaminants.

  24. #24
    Its got what plants crave
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    Quote Originally Posted by spsoon
    If you pull the spindle out, the end closest to the crank will have a regular cartidge bearing clipped onto it. This is the replaceable one. The other end of the spindle is like a smooth cylinder that rolls on needle bearings embedded deep in the pedal body.

    Your needle bearings are probably ok, since they are less exposed to contaminants.

    Cool, I will probably clean and grease them if possible. It looks like Jenson has the Enduro Max bearings that will fit for about 5 bucks each, I just need one for each side right?
    Ocala Mountain Bike Association - www.omba.org

  25. #25
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    Yeah, one bearing per pedal. Not sure if you will need special tools. They're held on with a C-clip, which could be tricky to get off. The bearing may be pressed on as well. Not sure, as I have never taken the bearing off the spindle.

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