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  1. #1
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    Thomson vs Easton EA 50 Stems

    The easton's is 40% less in price.
    What will u choose?

  2. #2
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    search Thomson on the boards

    you will find out that the thomson stem is the best...made from a chunk of Al, no welds or bolts protruding.
    Keith Bontrager: "Strong, light, cheap pick any two."

    "Something strong and light ain't gonna be cheap. -That's what I call bling.

    And cheap and strong ain't gonna be light. -That ain't bling."
    -----[SIZE=3]locoman
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    [SIZE=2]"That said, I never deal with bike shops for the same reasons. I am a ebay and mail order whore and I don't care"[/SIZE] -----[SIZE=3]yetisurly[/SIZE]

  3. #3
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    Generally, you get what you pay for.

  4. #4
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    but its a stem.. how many people have broken a stem?

  5. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by ohvina
    The easton's is 40% less in price.
    What will u choose?
    For XC riding, the choice of a stem does not typically involve strength. It's usually just looks and weight.

    The Thomson is a beautiful stem with great machining. Will it perform better than the Easton? Nope. The Thomson stem is highly regarded mostly due to the "bling" factor

    In fact, when it comes to clamp strength....Chris King headsets do NOT recommend using stems with the Thomson-style clamp. They recommend the standard 2-bolt wrap around clamp..found on most stems.

    If money were not an issue, I'd go for a Hope stem. I've had issues with Thomson stems (most people don't, btw). If money were an issue, I'd buy a Bontrager stem, or a Raceface (I use Thomson, Raceface and Bontrager stems on my bikes).

  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by toyota kawasaki
    but its a stem.. how many people have broken a stem?
    Funnily enough, I have bent one, destroyed the fork at the same time, but the stem definitely bent.

    And as for the modern stems, the general rule of thumb is the more you pay, the less it will weigh.

    Blueshorts is right though, the Raceface and Bontrager stems are a nice option too.

  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by ohvina
    The easton's is 40% less in price.
    What will u choose?
    First off most any stem will get the job done, the exception are the stupid light roadie weight stems that even the roadies break but they are made purely for racing or weight weinies and not meant to last more than one season.

    In theory a $15 one-piece, mass produced, cold forged stem will be stronger than a cnc'd stem. So strength shouldn't be an issue here. Where I find find the difference between the "cheap" stems and the pricier stems is in the flex I feel at the bars. The flex is from the way the bar clamps to the stem. 2-bolt bar clamp stems can not hold the bar near as well as a 4-bolt. This probably isn't true across the board but generally holds true when comparing stems.

    Thomson stems and seatpost, like King headsets and hubs have a lot of bling factor. Are they worth it? That's mostly up to you.

    If i had the money to spend definitely a Thomson or Raceface Deus

  8. #8
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    go for easton stem.

    If you need to save money, you should buy the Easton stem. Both brand names produce high qualilty stem. The decision of purchase rest upon the user personal preference rather than strength or durability.

  9. #9
    wg
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    I went with Thompson because of quality and the lack of protruding bolts. I've smacked my knee a few times on other stems' bolts and the small price diff to go up to a Thompson was worth it to me. Its a set it and forget it component. Not something you ever want to worry about. Bikeman has them for about $65.
    Don't harsh my mello

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    To me, factors including strength, durability, weight and cost are more significant than just the "look".

    Comparing the easton and thomson stem,

    Easton: lighter, cheaper, traditional clamp on steer tube, but 2-bolt clamp on handlebar
    Thomson: look, beautiful machining, 4-bolt clamp on handlebar but innovative clamp on steer tube

    Is there any singificant difference in respect of strength and durablity?

  11. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by ohvina
    To me, factors including strength, durability, weight and cost are more significant than just the "look".

    Comparing the easton and thomson stem,

    Easton: lighter, cheaper, traditional clamp on steer tube, but 2-bolt clamp on handlebar
    Thomson: look, beautiful machining, 4-bolt clamp on handlebar but innovative clamp on steer tube

    Is there any singificant difference in respect of strength and durablity?
    I'm not sure which Easton Stem you are referring to. I know it's the EA 50....but which year? Is it on closeout?

    With everything else beig equal (which they rarely are), a heavier stem will most likely have more strength. I've never seen them compared...so we really don't know. Having said that.....the Easton stem will be plenty strong. 2-bolt vs 4-bolt is just preference. I ride with both and don't care which I use. In fact, 2-bolt hb clamps are recommended for carbon bars.

    2 of my favorites are RF Deus (4-bolt hb clamp) and Bontrager (2-bolt). The EA 50 (current model..forged) looks like a fine stem.

  12. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by ohvina
    The easton's is 40% less in price.
    What will u choose?
    What size are you trying to get? I have a new Race Face Prodigy 120mm that I would be willing to sell for real cheap.

  13. #13
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    I am refering to the Easton EA50 model. It seems to be the current model. No weld. Forged. Black handlebar clamp.

  14. #14
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    Torque....

    not enough average joe's have torque wrenches.

    Blue Shorts
    2-bolt vs 4-bolt is just preference. I ride with both and don't care which I use. In fact, 2-bolt hb clamps are recommended for carbon bars.
    On a 2 bolt handlebar binder the bolts are torqued 175-250 inch/pounds a four-bolt thomson only 48 i/p

    Blue Shorts
    In fact, when it comes to clamp strength....Chris King headsets do NOT recommend using stems with the Thomson-style clamp. They recommend the standard 2-bolt wrap around clamp..found on most stems.
    On a pinch type 2 bolt steerer tube binder the torque is 100-150 i/p a thomson is 48 i/p. Without a torque wrench overtightening is easy leading to carbon and al handlebar and steerer tube failure.

    I have seen plenty of pictures of broken stems and to me it looks like it could only take one to ruin your day.
    Keith Bontrager: "Strong, light, cheap pick any two."

    "Something strong and light ain't gonna be cheap. -That's what I call bling.

    And cheap and strong ain't gonna be light. -That ain't bling."
    -----[SIZE=3]locoman
    [/SIZE]

    [SIZE=2]"That said, I never deal with bike shops for the same reasons. I am a ebay and mail order whore and I don't care"[/SIZE] -----[SIZE=3]yetisurly[/SIZE]

  15. #15
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    Quote Originally Posted by wg
    I went with Thompson because of quality and the lack of protruding bolts. I've smacked my knee a few times on other stems' bolts and the small price diff to go up to a Thompson was worth it to me. Its a set it and forget it component. Not something you ever want to worry about. Bikeman has them for about $65.
    WG has hit the "stem" on the head as it were. This is the reason I would spend the extra cash for the Thomson stem, I too have hit my knee on the bolts of normal stems and it hurts like hell and makes the price diff well worth it to me.
    One day your life will flash before your eyes, will it be worth watching??
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  16. #16
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    Quote Originally Posted by LyNx
    WG has hit the "stem" on the head as it were. This is the reason I would spend the extra cash for the Thomson stem, I too have hit my knee on the bolts of normal stems and it hurts like hell and makes the price diff well worth it to me.
    Others, including Bontrager make stems with recessed bolts.

  17. #17
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    Quote Originally Posted by Blue Shorts
    I've had issues with Thomson stems (most people don't, btw).
    would you care to elaborate on that point?

    broken stem = very possible & very nasty.
    To air is human, to dig is divine.

  18. #18
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    Some time ago, in some forum (ooohhh, sooo specific), someone posted pictures from the Thompson factory. iirc, they posted a picture of a broken Easton stem, broken on testing equipment there... That said, I ride my Easton stem and don't worry about it. I can't imagine putting it through that much stress.

    (am I being dumb?)
    Take the long cut, we'll get there eventually.

  19. #19
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    Quote Originally Posted by vermont
    On a 2 bolt handlebar binder the bolts are torqued 175-250 inch/pounds a four-bolt thomson only 48 i/p.
    The specs vary by manufacturer. Race face recommends 65 in-lbs per bolt (2-bolt steerer clamp) Where the heck did you find that 175 - 250 number? It's bogus.




    Quote Originally Posted by vermont
    On a pinch type 2 bolt steerer tube binder the torque is 100-150 i/p a thomson is 48 i/p. Without a torque wrench overtightening is easy leading to carbon and al handlebar and steerer tube failure.

    I have seen plenty of pictures of broken stems and to me it looks like it could only take one to ruin your day.
    It's far easier to over-torque a Thomson handlebar clamp thahn it is to over torque a 2-bolt handlebar clamp. WIth 4 bolts, half the torque/ bolt will apply the same force as a 2-bolt clamp with twice the torque.

    The Thomson steerer clamp has a smaller contact area than a pinch type clamp. It takes less force to damage the steerer.

    You appear to have it all backwards. I's easier to damage a steerer with the Thomson clamp...and easier to damage bars with a 4-bolt handlebar clamp as compared to a 2-bolt clamp.

    Do you make this stuff up?

  20. #20
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    yes

    Quote Originally Posted by Blue Shorts
    The specs vary by manufacturer. Race face recommends 65 in-lbs per bolt (2-bolt steerer clamp) Where the heck did you find that 175 - 250 number? It's bogus.
    from the park.com torque guide
    http://www.parktool.com/repair_help/torque.shtml




    Quote Originally Posted by Blue Shorts
    It's far easier to over-torque a Thomson handlebar clamp thahn it is to over torque a 2-bolt handlebar clamp. WIth 4 bolts, half the torque/ bolt will apply the same force as a 2-bolt clamp with twice the torque.

    The Thomson steerer clamp has a smaller contact area than a pinch type clamp. It takes less force to damage the steerer.

    You appear to have it all backwards. I's easier to damage a steerer with the Thomson clamp...and easier to damage bars with a 4-bolt handlebar clamp as compared to a 2-bolt clamp.



    Do you make this stuff up?
    i am agreeing with you that it is easier to overtorque a 4-bolt and a thomson style steerer clamp.

  21. #21
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    Quote Originally Posted by vermont
    from the park.com torque guide
    http://www.parktool.com/repair_help/torque.shtml





    i am agreeing with you that it is easier to overtorque a 4-bolt and a thomson style steerer clamp.
    Oh. Nevermind

    I read your post a few times, but wasn't sure what points you were trying to make.

    I saw the information on the Park site. I've yet to see any manufacturer specify those super high torques. Maybe the older and heavier type stems used to require more torque.

  22. #22
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    Quote Originally Posted by chuffer
    would you care to elaborate on that point?

    broken stem = very possible & very nasty.
    The issues that I had with the Thomson stem were NOT breakage issues. The steerer clamp would not hold and I had to constantly loosen the steerer tube bolts, re-tighten the headset and re-torque the Thomson steerer tube bolts. I had no other issues with the Thomson.

    I spent a rediculous amount of time trying to solve the issue. I really wanted to use the Thomson stem. I talked with Mr. Thomson about the issue. I measured the clamps, steerer tube. I used precision micrometers. Nothing was ever out of spec. I increased the torque from 48 in-lbs to 60 in-lbs at Mr. Thomson's suggestion. I even purchased another Thomson stem and I had the same issues. I was never able to resolve them. My gut feelings were that it wasn't the stem...that it was the headset. I was never able to prove it though. Other stems always worked with no issues. I swapped stems so many times it got plain rediculous.

    When I used ANY other stem on the bike....no issues at all. I now have that Thomson stem on another one of my bikes and am having no issues.

  23. #23
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    Quote Originally Posted by Blue Shorts
    Others, including Bontrager make stems with recessed bolts.
    Cool ,never seen any in my looking online at the more major online retailers for hidden stems other than Thomson. I'm running a Bontrager Race Light HB and stem right now and am happy with it, but would still like to get a hidden bolt designed stem for just the reason I mentioned.

    Thanks for the info Blue, will check the actual manufacturer sites and see what I find.
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  24. #24
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    Quote Originally Posted by Blue Shorts
    Others, including Bontrager make stems with recessed bolts.
    It appears that Bontrager has stopped making the recessed bolt model. I forget if it was the Race or the Race light, but I have a 110 x 7 degree (may be 5 degree) stem at home I bout it a couple of years ago.

    I can't find it on the Bontrager site....Most of the Bontrager stems are now OS. What a shame.

    EDIT: UPDATE: Cambria Bike has the Bontrager stem that I was talking about...only they call it "Famous Maker Race Stem" It looks exactly like the Race stem I was talking about....and it's $19.95. I paid around $60 for mine Cambria says the MSRP was 39.95.

    6061 T6 Aluminum. Forward-mounted binder bolts to avoid the knee-bashing thing. Dual-Bolt clamp. All have 7 degree rise

    It's a shame that Bontrage doesn't make them any more.

  25. #25
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    Quote Originally Posted by Blue Shorts
    The issues that I had with the Thomson stem were NOT breakage issues. The steerer clamp would not hold and I had to constantly loosen the steerer tube bolts, re-tighten the headset and re-torque the Thomson steerer tube bolts. I had no other issues with the Thomson.

    I spent a rediculous amount of time trying to solve the issue. I really wanted to use the Thomson stem. I talked with Mr. Thomson about the issue. I measured the clamps, steerer tube. I used precision micrometers. Nothing was ever out of spec. I increased the torque from 48 in-lbs to 60 in-lbs at Mr. Thomson's suggestion. I even purchased another Thomson stem and I had the same issues. I was never able to resolve them. My gut feelings were that it wasn't the stem...that it was the headset. I was never able to prove it though. Other stems always worked with no issues. I swapped stems so many times it got plain rediculous.

    When I used ANY other stem on the bike....no issues at all. I now have that Thomson stem on another one of my bikes and am having no issues.
    strange!

    what kinda of fork was on the bike that you were having troubles with?
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