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  1. #76
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    here's hoping it's good

    Rainman

    just applied to my chain after fully stripping off the old lube (combo of ProLink & Dupont teflon/molybdenum/wax spray)
    applied largish drop of squirt to each link
    lube seemed to sit there and not soak or run into rollers etc
    lube seems too thick
    maybe air temp a bit cold, 12 degree's C
    worked the lube into rollers and over side plates with fingers and this seemed to work OK
    let dry for 5 minutes and went for short spin up & down road
    seems nice and quiet and smooth
    came back, heated chain up a bit with heat gun to dry completely and maybe get wax to flow a bit
    probably not hot enough really
    whilst chain still bit warm, applied another dose of squirt and went thru process of working lube into rollers etc

    next application, i plan to sit the bottle of lube in some hot water for a while
    this should thin the lube so it flows better and may also speed up the drying time

    will post comments after a couple of rides
    here's hoping i can be as happy with the lube as you are

    cheers

  2. #77
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    Good job!

    Well, Squirt lube is being used here on all the bikes we ride, and it is still doing a great job on my test bike.
    I hope it does as well for you....but if you don't like it, just go back to your old lube.


    Rainman.
    It is inevitable ...

  3. #78
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    Quote Originally Posted by gooserider
    Rainman

    just applied to my chain after fully stripping off the old lube (combo of ProLink & Dupont teflon/molybdenum/wax spray)
    applied largish drop of squirt to each link
    lube seemed to sit there and not soak or run into rollers etc
    lube seems too thick
    maybe air temp a bit cold, 12 degree's C
    worked the lube into rollers and over side plates with fingers and this seemed to work OK
    let dry for 5 minutes and went for short spin up & down road
    seems nice and quiet and smooth
    came back, heated chain up a bit with heat gun to dry completely and maybe get wax to flow a bit
    probably not hot enough really
    whilst chain still bit warm, applied another dose of squirt and went thru process of working lube into rollers etc

    next application, i plan to sit the bottle of lube in some hot water for a while
    this should thin the lube so it flows better and may also speed up the drying time

    will post comments after a couple of rides
    here's hoping i can be as happy with the lube as you are

    cheers
    I bought some the other day. Cleaned the crap out of the chain and let it dry. Ran a heat gun over the chain as well to dry it out before applying the lube.
    I have to agree that the lube was thicker than I expected and didn't seem to flow into the chain very well. Rock n Roll Extreme flows very well but the chain does build up gunk. It stays quiet though even with the gunk.
    So I applied the lube twice and did a ride a couple hours later.
    I didn't notice any deviation in drivetrain noise. So that was good. Shifting is nominal.
    The chain did pick up a decent film of dust. I have since done 2 days in Fruita and the lube seems to be doing a decent job of keeping quiet. But it does get dirty.

    I will be doing a side by side comparison against R&R extreme lube on another bike so I will post up my impressions at a later date.

  4. #79
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    I wish someone with a single speed would fix it up with 2 chainwheels the same size and 2 chains and 2 sprockets the same size. It would be easy to do and then maintain 2 chains for several thousand miles with 2 brands of lube. At the end of the test, mesure both chains for stretch over the entire length of the chain and declare a winner.

  5. #80
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    Quote Originally Posted by yourdaguy
    I wish someone with a single speed would fix it up with 2 chainwheels the same size and 2 chains and 2 sprockets the same size. It would be easy to do and then maintain 2 chains for several thousand miles with 2 brands of lube. At the end of the test, mesure both chains for stretch over the entire length of the chain and declare a winner.
    Probably wouldn't work. As soon as one of the chains stretches a little more than the other, it'll be under less tension and thus receive less wear, so that the 'less stretched' chain will start wearing faster and catch up to it. The two chains would never get very far apart from one another in terms of stretch.

  6. #81
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    Good point!

  7. #82
    one chain, two sprockets
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    Funny, I just stumbled upon a "Squirt" web endorsement the other day, and now I found this thread.

    Anyway, Squirt is not available though any of my local sources, so I am not be able to test it. For the record, I've used Finish Line Wax lube (w/Krytox) for years and love it. My experience is that a wax lube can be 'slightly' noisier than a wet lube like triflow, but I have not experienced increased wear. Also, any build-up on the rings/cogs easily sloughs-off with your thumb-nail behind a dry rag...

    Seems like Squirt is after this market...but I wonder if the are really up to the task (being eco-friendly, water-based-carrier and all?

    Tom P.

  8. #83
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    Quote Originally Posted by one piece crank
    Funny, I just stumbled upon a "Squirt" web endorsement the other day, and now I found this thread.

    Anyway, Squirt is not available though any of my local sources, so I am not be able to test it.
    Tom P.

    How hard is it to go on their website and buy a bottle online like I have.

  9. #84
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    it seems there is only one online seller in USA:

    http://www.likinbikin.com/Products/lubes_cleaners.html

  10. #85
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    Quote Originally Posted by alex_k
    it seems there is only one online seller in USA:

    http://www.likinbikin.com/Products/lubes_cleaners.html

    Go to http://www.squirtlube.com/orders/index.php and buy it there. Not EVERYTHING HAS to be bought in the USA. I am from Canada. Paypal paid and received the next week. What's the big deal? It will cost about $18.00 CND.

  11. #86
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    Quote Originally Posted by gdl357
    Go to http://www.squirtlube.com/orders/index.php and buy it there. Not EVERYTHING HAS to be bought in the USA. I am from Canada. Paypal paid and received the next week. What's the big deal? It will cost about $18.00 CND.
    I tried but did not find paypal option.

    btw i'm a big fan of CRC

  12. #87
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    Quote Originally Posted by alex_k
    I tried but did not find paypal option.

    btw i'm a big fan of CRC

    You are correct. There is no option for paypal. You must pay with a credit card online. I did it a few months ago, and I still have the same depts. HAHA so no fraud from Squirt. .
    Last edited by gdl357; 06-08-2009 at 06:50 AM.

  13. #88
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    If you live in San Diego, Ca you can find Squirt at UC Cyclery.

  14. #89
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    Good job! Squirt Lube: 6 Month Review....

    It's been about six months since I started testing the Squirt lube, so this is my final report on this product.

    I've tested this lube under all conditions, from really dry and dusty to soaking wet and muddy trails.
    In all these conditions, the lube did the job it was designed to do, and did it very well indeed.
    There has been some wax buildup around the drive train, but it's fairly minimal, and the old dried out wax flakes off by itself anyways, so there is absolutely NO NEED to degrease your chain ever again. Do you see how cool that is? No more degreasing of a dirty oily chain for the life of the chain! I used to *never* look forward to the task of degreasing my drive chains on my mountain and road bikes, but with Squirt, that's history now.

    No more degreasing .... ever!

    As far as lubrication goes, the Squirt makes the chain quiet and slippery, all without collecting lots of dirt and crud. The chain remains clean and bright, with only minimal wax buildup.

    To tell you the truth, I really like this Squirt lube. It does such a good job of keeping the chain working well, all without any fuss. My small bottle supplied to me by Over the Edge Sports in Australia is still half full. The lube is efficient, the chain shifts beautifully up and down without any hassles or grinding sounds, everything works very smoothly.
    If I had to nit-pick anything, I would say that it is in wet weather conditions that this lube shows it's only slight weakness. But even this slight weakness is offset by the application of a new lot of lube after the chain is dry and before your next ride.

    This Squirt lube is Bio-degradable, it doesn't impact the environment like the usual oil-based jobs do. So, here we have a bio-friendly lube that doesn't require degreasing, works super-well in all conditions, is cheap, long-lasting, quiet, self-cleaning, and lubricates your chain and cogs to minimise wear whilst gathering virtually no dirt or crud. What's not to like?

    I am very impressed with this lube, I have changed over to using it on all the bikes I own, as well as my sons bikes. I've let customers try it out after servicing their bikes, and every one of them was happy with the results.

    It's not too often that you come upon a product that just excels at what it was designed to do, but this is one of those products. After six months of hard testing this lube I am happy to recommend it to anyone who rides a bicycle.
    I put in a LOT of miles on bikes, so do my sons, and we really can't fault this stuff. It just works, and it does it without any drama or fuss.

    Try it for yourself...i'm sure that you won't be disappointed.

    In conclusion, I give this squirt lube a solid 10 out of 10 points. It's damn good stuff!


    Rainman.


    [As always, I have no affiliations or interests in the company who produces this product.]
    Last edited by Rainman; 06-08-2009 at 02:27 PM.
    It is inevitable ...

  15. #90
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    This almost sounds like and advertizement.

  16. #91
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    whilst it might appear as an advertisment for Squirt, having used Squirt for a while now myself, what Rainman writes/reports is on the mark

    it's a good product, better than any chain lube i have used before and i too will continue to use it

  17. #92
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    chainlube

    I started using it on one bike several months ago as a test. I live in a dry area and was tired of wet lubes picking up a lot of dust, even with fastidious wipe down after every wet lube application. I removed the chain, and totally cleaned the used chain just like I clean a new chain, let it dry and put the Squirt on. I was so super happy with the quiet and clean running chain that all 14 bikes in my garage from my kids FIT dirt jumper to road bikes are running Squirt. The stuff works as claimed, except where I got lazy and did not totally clean the old wet lube off on a couple of the bikes. Then it is less than Squirt clean, but still collects less dust than straight wet lube, I will pull those chains in time, totally clean them and start with fresh Squirt. I hit the drive train with a super stiff nylon bristled grout cleaning brush every so often to really clean the pulleys, cogs and outer plates, then re apply. No more removing greasy chains to remove the oily mud of wet lubes!

    David Turner

  18. #93
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    Quote Originally Posted by gooserider
    whilst it might appear as an advertisment for Squirt, having used Squirt for a while now myself, what Rainman writes/reports is on the mark :thumbsup:

    it's a good product, better than any chain lube i have used before and i too will continue to use it
    I just tried it for the first time and am also concerned about how thick the product is, does it work its way inside the rollers, or do you have to knead it in by hand?

  19. #94
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    Good job! Warm it up...

    Although the temperatures here in AU have been quite low lately, i've been using the Squirt lube straight from the bottle for testing purposes.

    However, if you find that because of lower temps your Squirt is a little thick, standing it in a pot of warm water will help to make the lube more "runny" and easier to apply.

    When I use the lube I apply it to the bottom run of the chain and rotate the chain as I apply. When the chain has gone one full revolution on the cogs, I shift up and down through the gears a couple of times whilst slowly turning the pedals to apply the lube right across the cassette and front chain rings.
    Then I leave it to "set" and dry out properly before riding. In six months of using the Squirt, I never once cleaned the chain, cassette or chain rings, nor the derailleur cogs. I did clean the mud off the rest of the bike, but never touched the drive train at all. The chain remains clean and bright.

    We have had days of drizzle and some heavy showers here, the trails are muddy, it's winter. After my last ride the Ibis test bike looked like it was coated in mud instead of paint. However, the chain remained clean compared to the rest of the bike.
    To this day, I have still not cleaned the drive train at all. I just apply a new coat of Squirt lube to the chain and ride. So then, warm up that Squirt in warm water, apply, let it dry .... and go ride.


    Rainman.



    Quote Originally Posted by LWright
    I just tried it for the first time and am also concerned about how thick the product is, does it work its way inside the rollers, or do you have to knead it in by hand?
    It is inevitable ...

  20. #95
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    Just to add another persons experience.

    I got some little sample bottles in January 2008. I didn't follow the instructions to the tee, used it on and off in all conditions but had some very promising results.

    In March I was preparing my bike to head overseas and asked the LBS to get some in for me. New chain/cassette/cables/jockey wheels...Degreased, and 'Squirt'ed.

    So 12 weeks later I'm back from Europe and preparing the bike for sale having used only Squirt lube. In those 12 weeks I've done

    - Oceania Championships
    - Munsingen German National Round
    - Offenburg World Cup Round
    - Houffalize World Cup Round
    - Dalby Forrest British National Round
    - Haubach Bundesliga German National Round
    - Madrid World Cup Round
    - All road and mtb training km's (no road bike while travelling)

    While travelling bikes have a hard life. From bone dry dust and sand to clogging clay to rain and English slop. No degreasing and plenty of jetwashing. All the drivetrain got was the occasional running of the chain through a rag. After wet rides/races and jetwashes I did run the chain through a towel to avoid rusting so can't comment on that matter.

    While in Europe I enjoyed a clean, smooth and quite drivetrain the whole time but didn't keep tabs on the wear rate. I came home expecting to replace at least chain and cassette. Upon inspection there was no sideways slop and roller action was smooth. Squirt had made its way inside the rollers, stayed there and kept all the nasties out. I didn't even bother with a chain clean as that would just remove lube from the rollers, produce sideways slop and give an opportunity for gunk to get in. Measuring wear produced nothing of note, less than 1/16th of an inch over 12inches...I've seen new chains measure more than that. All I did was give the outside of the linkage plates a good wipe with a rag so it looked clean and shiny. Drivetrain still performed quietly and smoothly.

    It's definitely all I'll use on a mtb from now on. For the road bike I'll be using something a little thinner (Prolink Pro Gold) for racing as I do think Squirt adds a little more resistance to the drivetrain. Like the grease on a new chain it feels more 'gluey' than thin chain lubes.

    To those that are worried that the chain looks very dry and lacks a 'protective' coating on the outside of the chain consider this. The protective coating on the outside of the chain that you feel is so important to slowing drivetrain wear may do more harm than good. The wear on cassettes/jockey wheels/chainrings is mostly caused when the chain links no longer fall onto the teeth perfectly, rather it clips the front of the tooth and very quickly wears it away. We all know this is due to what is, perhaps inaccurately, termed chain 'stretch'. Nothing actually stretches rather there is a slight grooving of the pins where the links 'cut' into them. Dust/sand/mud is what increases the rate of this grooving.

    The lube on the outside of the chain that forms your 'protective' coating does reduce friction between two metal surfaces rubbing on each other, but it also attracts more of the trail and speeds up the process of chain 'stretch' which causes much quicker wear to your drivetrain. 0.1mm is about the depth of a groove that will mean time to replace the chain. Ask if you want the maths or how to measure it but I don't want to go too OT.

  21. #96
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    Its winter and cold here.

    I have been thinning Squirt out with water 2/3 squirt & 1/3 water

    Apply across each link and watch the lube get drawn into the roller/pin void. Undiluted, the lube tends to sit there going nowhere.

    Need to apply twice and takes a bit longer to dry but i know the lube is getting to where it needs to go.

    ProLink stinks. My bike lives in the back of my car and when ProLink is used car stinks. Not sure if this is a health hazard.. Squirt is odorless.

  22. #97
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    Quote Originally Posted by gooserider
    Its winter and cold here.

    I have been thinning Squirt out with water 2/3 squirt & 1/3 water
    ProLink stinks. My bike lives in the back of my car and when ProLink is used car stinks. Not sure if this is a health hazard.. Squirt is odorless.
    Guess I was wondering if the thickness was normal or if the batch my bottle came from was a little off
    No concerns about water rusting the chain? I was a little worried about Squirt being mixed with water and not solvent. Has anyone tried thinning with solvent? which one?
    And Chain-L really stinks!

  23. #98
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    Squirt is a water-based wax lube. That's why it is eco-friendly. Do NOT try to thin it down with anything but some warmth ... or maybe a little water if you want to experiment like gooserider has.

    Rainman.
    It is inevitable ...

  24. #99
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    as Rainman advises, i would not thin the lube out with any solvents

    as it's a water based carrier lube (40% wax/60% water out of the bottle) i figure a bit more water being no problem other than needing to lube a bit more often and taking a bit longer to dry
    i am doing this as it's 15 degrees C where i am
    when it's 35 degrees, thinning may not be required

    as for rusting the chain, so far my chain (KMC Z-9900) shows no signs
    the chain has a bright finish, some sort of coating so maybe this helps
    seen some chains which seem to rust simply due to moisture in the air

    figure once squirt has coated the chain, water does not contact metal
    subsequent applications hopefully just top up the wax layer

    the first lube i suggest you go a bit overboard with the lube, especially on a completely clean chain (stripped of all old lube which is optimum) so that the whole chain gets a wax coating
    thereafter, concentrate on lubing the rollers/pins and where the side plates rub against one-onother

  25. #100
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    Well after 2 years of great success using Squirt on a fully equipped Shimano drivetrain I have just completed a strip down of a brand new bike. I can apply the same test using Squirt but this time using it on a fully equipped SRAM drivetrain. I doubt brands would play any role in Squirts ability but at least it will broaden my own personal opinion and experience with this stuff.

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