|
-
should I remove my front derailleur - 30x to 10x - Advantages and Disadvantages.
I have gotten much stronger as a rider and lately I find myself using the middle chainring exclusively. I have nice XO front der but ...
1. I find I really don't havet to shift the front der for my rides.
2. I find front shifting kind of akward, the rear is much smoother
3. I am tired of the adjustments I have to make in the front der.
SO, seems to me like I could shed some weight, complexity and get a cleaner look by just losing the extra chainrings, cables and shifter.
Am I missing something?
-
I ditched my triple about two years ago. For the stuff I ride I really don't need a granny and very rarely is there an area in which to use the big ring. I love riding single up front.
Just FYI you'll probably need a device up front to keep your chain on though. I use the Paul Components Chain Keeper. $50, looks good, made in the USA, local (to me), super rad, etc.
-
Awesome thanks man.
I guess that would also help you keep the chain on the chunky stuff.
-
 Originally Posted by metalaficionado
I have gotten much stronger as a rider and lately I find myself using the middle chainring exclusively. I have nice XO front der but ...
1. I find I really don't havet to shift the front der for my rides.
2. I find front shifting kind of akward, the rear is much smoother
3. I am tired of the adjustments I have to make in the front der.
SO, seems to me like I could shed some weight, complexity and get a cleaner look by just losing the extra chainrings, cables and shifter.
Am I missing something?
Try it! Just leave the front derailleur in place. Block it into the right position for the center chainring. Get shorter chainring bolts. Remove two chainrings, shifter, and cable. No problem.
"Head injuries are pretty high-consequence" - AndrwSwitch
-
The 1X set-up is my favorite - especially 1X10. Even on the most grueling climbs, I see no reason to have to get into the granny chainring. ALL my bikes (except one) are set up this way.
I'm actually thinking about switching over my 26" bike from a 1X9 (32 X 11-34) to 1X10 (32 X 11-36). On my 29'er, I am running a 2X9 set-up, and by my gear inch calculations, I've figured this:
29'er while in 22T X 30T cog = 21.2 gear inches
29'er while in 22T X 26T cog = 24.5 gear inches
26'er while in 32T X 36T cog = 22.9 gear inches
When climbing my 29'er, I am NEVER in the 34T granny cog (I kinda dance between the 7th and 8th gear on climbs). Therefore, a 26'er 1X10 with a 11-36 cassette will be very close to what I feel comfortable with climbing on the 29'er set up as a double.
Personally, I hate the front derailleur. My cyclocross bike is a 1X10 38T X 11-36 and it climbs just about anything with those light, skinny wheels. My "commuter" bike is set up 1X8 (36T X 12-30). No need for a double up front!
I have a Paul ChainKeeper on two of my bikes, my other bikes with the 1X set up have a N-Gear Jump Stops and chain guards (bash guards). I think the N-Gear Jump Stop and bash guards work the best (and cheaper, too).
-
 Originally Posted by Dion
The 1X set-up is my favorite - especially 1X10. Even on the most grueling climbs, I see no reason to have to get into the granny chainring. ALL my bikes (except one) are set up this way.
I'm actually thinking about switching over my 26" bike from a 1X9 (32 X 11-34) to 1X10 (32 X 11-36). On my 29'er, I am running a 2X9 set-up, and by my gear inch calculations, I've figured this:
29'er while in 22T X 30T cog = 21.2 gear inches
29'er while in 22T X 26T cog = 24.5 gear inches
26'er while in 32T X 36T cog = 22.9 gear inches
When climbing my 29'er, I am NEVER in the 34T granny cog (I kinda dance between the 7th and 8th gear on climbs). Therefore, a 26'er 1X10 with a 11-36 cassette will be very close to what I feel comfortable with climbing on the 29'er set up as a double.
Personally, I hate the front derailleur. My cyclocross bike is a 1X10 38T X 11-36 and it climbs just about anything with those light, skinny wheels. My "commuter" bike is set up 1X8 (36T X 12-30). No need for a double up front!
I have a Paul ChainKeeper on two of my bikes, my other bikes with the 1X set up have a N-Gear Jump Stops and chain guards (bash guards). I think the N-Gear Jump Stop and bash guards work the best (and cheaper, too).
That's great info !
I see so the chain is guided by bash guard on one side and jump stop on the other?
the chainkeeper, probably controls the slap?
-
The chainkeeper basically covers the chain on the chain ring, preventing it from coming off the ring for any reason. Before I had one my chain would randomly pop off the chainring while riding (after a bump, sometimes not very big depending on the tension on the chain).
-
 Originally Posted by metalaficionado
That's great info !
I see so the chain is guided by bash guard on one side and jump stop on the other?
the chainkeeper, probably controls the slap?
It's all there to keep the chain from dropping off the chainring. I've had my chain get stuck in the chain keeper, and took some all-out brute force to get it out (that really sucked). I prefer the N-Gear Jump Stop and bash guard because it's easy to dial in. You may have to spend a little time fiddling with the Paul Chain Keeper to keep it from rubbing on either side.
Just did a quick calculation using a 29'er base.
If you feel comfortable climbing in the 22T X 26 Cog, the gear inches is nearly identical to a 32T X 36 Cog. So before you start fiddling with it, try your local climbs in the 7th gear while in the 22T chainring. It's just around the same with a 26" wheel, as well. This will give you a sense of how a 32T X 36 cog will feel.
-
Until recently I had the same sentiment. I was using only the big ring on my 2x10 and thought that I should go 1x10 on my new build. Then, recently, I started riding a lot more and started using the small ring again. The reason is simply that my legs are often tired from the previous day's ride but I still want to go and hit the trails but I do so in a less aggressive manner. Basically make it a recovery ride. So I spin up hills in the small ring and resist the temptation to push.
A friend who is a retired racer has also been lecturing me about doing much more low level riding to build up endurance and prevent plateauing. I am giving that a shot as well.
Lastly, being over 50, I am keeping a good eye on my knees. I know too many people my age who have had to have knee surgery. Minor knee pain for me is only an issue if I haven't ridden for a while after winter weather or travel. But when my knees act up I now make sure to gear down.
Bottom line, 1x10 setups are great but there are reasons to have a small ring available once in a while. Multiple bikes solve that problem but if you only have one bike I'd stick with 2x10.
-
 Originally Posted by borabora
Until recently I had the same sentiment. I was using only the big ring on my 2x10 and thought that I should go 1x10 on my new build. Then, recently, I started riding a lot more and started using the small ring again. The reason is simply that my legs are often tired from the previous day's ride but I still want to go and hit the trails but I do so in a less aggressive manner. Basically make it a recovery ride. So I spin up hills in the small ring and resist the temptation to push.
A friend who is a retired racer has also been lecturing me about doing much more low level riding to build up endurance and prevent plateauing. I am giving that a shot as well.
Lastly, being over 50, I am keeping a good eye on my knees. I know too many people my age who have had to have knee surgery. Minor knee pain for me is only an issue if I haven't ridden for a while after winter weather or travel. But when my knees act up I now make sure to gear down.
Bottom line, 1x10 setups are great but there are reasons to have a small ring available once in a while. Multiple bikes solve that problem but if you only have one bike I'd stick with 2x10.
I agree, but that's why I am setting up ten speed over single speed
-
 Originally Posted by Dion
It's all there to keep the chain from dropping off the chainring. I've had my chain get stuck in the chain keeper, and took some all-out brute force to get it out (that really sucked). I prefer the N-Gear Jump Stop and bash guard because it's easy to dial in. You may have to spend a little time fiddling with the Paul Chain Keeper to keep it from rubbing on either side.
Just did a quick calculation using a 29'er base.
If you feel comfortable climbing in the 22T X 26 Cog, the gear inches is nearly identical to a 32T X 36 Cog. So before you start fiddling with it, try your local climbs in the 7th gear while in the 22T chainring. It's just around the same with a 26" wheel, as well. This will give you a sense of how a 32T X 36 cog will feel.
I haven't use the granny for 2 weeks. I think I am ready for big boy gears !
-
I ride similar trails to you and use the full range of my triple (44-32-22 and 11-34) on my 26 hardtail. I like having the versatility of big ring for pavement spins or for fast dirt road downhills and I use 22 small ring for a lot tech climbing. My latest technique has been to do tech climbing in 22 front and use a 23 /26/ 30 in the rear. I will say that my 22F /23 rear is the same as 32f 34 rear combo, but I hate feeling there is no place to in case I need a lower gear.
The 22 / 34 is bit spinny, but it perfect for super steep smooth climbs where I need break and just need get my butt over the darn climb. I would much rather have "bailout" gear than to be stuck and have walk it. I use my middle ring for most use, but will drop to granny ring for steep or long climbs to give my full use of rear cogs. On descents i will tent to use the big ring to tighten the chain to reduce slap and of course for big speed. I like being able power a 23 mph pedal rather than having to overspin at that speed.
Personally don't give a rats ass what gears I am using as long as I can get up a climb faster.
Joe
2003 KHS Alite 4000 26" Hardtail - XC, All mountain, blah blah blah.. I just ride.
-
I would love to convert to 1x10 on my 29er, but for me, the gear range isn't quite wide enough. I find that any way I set it up, I would be missing a needed gear on either the low end or high end (11-36/22-32-44). If I was in better shape, I'd probably be able to put a 34T on the front and call it a day. But on some of the many steep hills in my area, 34T in the front just wouldn't cut it for me.
One day, there will be a 11-38/40 cassette for me and I'll go 1x10....one day...
-
 Originally Posted by Shibby
I would love to convert to 1x10 on my 29er, but for me, the gear range isn't quite wide enough. I find that any way I set it up, I would be missing a needed gear on either the low end or high end (11-36/22-32-44). If I was in better shape, I'd probably be able to put a 34T on the front and call it a day. But on some of the many steep hills in my area, 34T in the front just wouldn't cut it for me.
One day, there will be a 11-38/40 cassette for me and I'll go 1x10....one day...
I saw a kid with SRAM's 10-42 cassette at the last race I did. He said that the cost of the upgrade (crankset, cassette, derailleur, shifter, etc.) cost $1,500. Yikes.
-
should I remove my front derailleur - 30x to 10x - Advantages and Disadvantages.
 Originally Posted by Dion
I saw a kid with SRAM's 10-42 cassette at the last race I did. He said that the cost of the upgrade (crankset, cassette, derailleur, shifter, etc.) cost $1,500. Yikes.
Yeah, no way am I switching to the XX1 system - that's a huge chunk of the cost of my bike!!!!
That's why I'm anxiously waiting for a slightly wider range 10-speed cassette (and it better not cost $400!). Someone's gotta come out with one eventually, right?
-
 Originally Posted by JoePAz
I ride similar trails to you and use the full range of my triple (44-32-22 and 11-34) on my 26 hardtail. I like having the versatility of big ring for pavement spins or for fast dirt road downhills and I use 22 small ring for a lot tech climbing. My latest technique has been to do tech climbing in 22 front and use a 23 /26/ 30 in the rear. I will say that my 22F /23 rear is the same as 32f 34 rear combo, but I hate feeling there is no place to in case I need a lower gear.
The 22 / 34 is bit spinny, but it perfect for super steep smooth climbs where I need break and just need get my butt over the darn climb. I would much rather have "bailout" gear than to be stuck and have walk it. I use my middle ring for most use, but will drop to granny ring for steep or long climbs to give my full use of rear cogs. On descents i will tent to use the big ring to tighten the chain to reduce slap and of course for big speed. I like being able power a 23 mph pedal rather than having to overspin at that speed.
Personally don't give a rats ass what gears I am using as long as I can get up a climb faster.
2 months ago I don't think I could live without 22T. For the past month or so I was experimenting with SS gearing and realized that although I am not quite ready for SS - I could easily do it all with ten speed.
In fact my climbing difficult, technical terrain became easier. Tiring? Sure, but I also get to the top quicker - by rolling over obstacle quicker and more power my climbing became more efficient - so overall I exert less energy for the same climb. Less wheel spin and getting bogged down.
If you have ever ridden Deem Hills - there is an initial climb from east trailhead with tons of rocky steps. I tried the low gears for that and I was miserable. Couldn't generate enough speed to get over obstacles and got hung up on the rocks. With higher gear I pick up more speed and stand up and power through. It's like night and day. For rest I coast wherever I can.
29 inch wheels help as well, with traction and rolling over. It's harder on my 26.
-
Hmmm, yeah 34t maybe a bit tough... but 33t - good idea
 Originally Posted by Shibby
I would love to convert to 1x10 on my 29er, but for me, the gear range isn't quite wide enough. I find that any way I set it up, I would be missing a needed gear on either the low end or high end (11-36/22-32-44). If I was in better shape, I'd probably be able to put a 34T on the front and call it a day. But on some of the many steep hills in my area, 34T in the front just wouldn't cut it for me.
One day, there will be a 11-38/40 cassette for me and I'll go 1x10....one day...
-
 Originally Posted by metalaficionado
In fact my climbing difficult, technical terrain became easier. Tiring?
...
If you have ever ridden Deem Hills - there is an initial climb from east trailhead with tons of rocky steps. I tried the low gears for that and I was miserable. Couldn't generate enough speed to get over obstacles and got hung up on the rocks. With higher gear I pick up more speed and stand up and power through. It's like night and day. For rest I coast wherever I can.
29 inch wheels help as well, with traction and rolling over. It's harder on my 26.
I understand what you are saying. I learned some this climbing Mormon and National when I had rear dérailleur cable probem that kept me out of my largest 3 cogs. So I get the concept and have be working on it, but I like having the wide range so my bike is more versatile. I have never ridden deem, but there are some steep stuff in Sonoran north which is not tech just steep. That is good for granny and the big cog if you are tired and just need to climb it.
Joe
2003 KHS Alite 4000 26" Hardtail - XC, All mountain, blah blah blah.. I just ride.
-
I have been riding a 1x10 for the last year...love it. Before that, I was on a SS. You just need a chain guide, a SS chainring, and you should really get a short cage r. derailleur but what you have will probably work. Have fun. If you need more gear...stand up...if you start to spin out...pedal faster
Geologist by trade...bicycle mechanic (former) by the grace of God!
2012 Specialized Stumpy EVO 29 HT
-
 Originally Posted by metalaficionado
I haven't use the granny for 2 weeks. I think I am ready for big boy gears !
The only time I can conceive of needing the 22/34 granny (or 22/36 granny!) is if the climb is some ridiculously steep fire road. Aside from that, if you have a nice set of relatively light wheels, you really shouldn't need a granny. We did a Sea Otter race course ride the other day, and I did it on my 26" 1X9. There were some areas I had to mash it out, and one area that I actually had to hike a bike (most have to hike a bike there in Cat3), but the long fireroad'y stuff was no problemo.
In fact, I would argue that spinning in granny - unless absolutely necessary - can cause traction issues on more technical climbs. Even on the most steep stuff, I rarely ever get into that big cog while in the small chainring.
-
I need the granny for the really steep stuff. I use all my gears.
-
 Originally Posted by TiGeo
I have been riding a 1x10 for the last year...love it. Before that, I was on a SS. You just need a chain guide, a SS chainring, and you should really get a short cage r. derailleur but what you have will probably work. Have fun. If you need more gear...stand up...if you start to spin out...pedal faster 
This is where I am headed. I have one of my 2 FS bikes set-up for a SS and the other is 3x9. I tend to select "geared" or "SS" depending on the place I am going to ride. But, sometimes if I am waiting for a part on the geared bike, I have no choice. And sometimes SS and the destination just aren't a good match.
So, I think I'm going 1x9 since I have some of those parts on hand. I figure I'll be ecstatic to have 8 more gears.
It's all a matter of where you are coming from. When you have 30 gears you get nervous and say "Can I live with only 10?" When you've been riding with 1 gear, 8 more seems like endless possibilities. And yes, I will still be using gear 10 = WALK.
-
I just did ride today and needed my 22/34 granny gear. Not everywhere, but it was very hand hitting a super steep spot when totally gassed out. I had no energy stand, but could spin it in my 22/34 or 22/30. I am never getting rid of this ratios.
Joe
2003 KHS Alite 4000 26" Hardtail - XC, All mountain, blah blah blah.. I just ride.
-
 Originally Posted by huffster
This is where I am headed. I have one of my 2 FS bikes set-up for a SS and the other is 3x9. I tend to select "geared" or "SS" depending on the place I am going to ride. But, sometimes if I am waiting for a part on the geared bike, I have no choice. And sometimes SS and the destination just aren't a good match.
So, I think I'm going 1x9 since I have some of those parts on hand. I figure I'll be ecstatic to have 8 more gears.
It's all a matter of where you are coming from. When you have 30 gears you get nervous and say "Can I live with only 10?" When you've been riding with 1 gear, 8 more seems like endless possibilities. And yes, I will still be using gear 10 = WALK.
Very very true..you freak out when you go SS from gear and its really not a big deal at all. When I got my current ride, I couldn't believe how cool it was to have 10 gears!
Geologist by trade...bicycle mechanic (former) by the grace of God!
2012 Specialized Stumpy EVO 29 HT
Similar Threads
-
By jut8 in forum 29er Bikes
Replies: 45
Last Post: 12-28-2012, 01:23 PM
-
By PixieChik in forum Yeti
Replies: 10
Last Post: 12-02-2012, 12:12 PM
-
By dstorjoh in forum XC Racing and Training
Replies: 8
Last Post: 07-12-2012, 06:29 PM
-
By sandyeggo in forum Beginner's Corner
Replies: 17
Last Post: 05-06-2011, 10:47 AM
-
By TeddyBallGame in forum General Discussion
Replies: 3
Last Post: 05-02-2011, 03:16 AM
Posting Permissions
- You may not post new threads
- You may not post replies
- You may not post attachments
- You may not edit your posts
-
Forum Rules
|