Short steer tube. Is it safe???
My steer tube was cut too short on a used yelli screamy that I bought by the previous owner . It worked with his small stem but I needed a stem with more rise and the new stem is about 40 mm high while the steer tube is about 30. So the second bolt on the stem is just over the end of steer tube. But the headset does fit fine on top and cover it. It's tight and not moving. I bashed it around outside and it's tight
Just want to see what you guys think. Most impacts should push down on it so it should be fine right?
Not an expert but from what I've heard its not recommended to have the top bolt of stem above the steer tube. Maybe find the similar stem you were using before with the rise you need.
^^^^ he's right, the top bolt should be over/border the tip of the steer tube. This question comes up
every month or every 3 weeks. Anyways try this stem, I bought 3 of them because they are low profile at 35mm tall. Good luck
Race Face D2 Stem > Components > Handlebars and Stems > Stems | Jenson USA Online Bike Shop
meanwhile other threads among dozens about this:
Steerer tube little too short?
Looking at it again th bolt is barely above the tube. Maybe 2 mm. Looks worse because the stem continues for another 5 to 8 mm
Still not perfect though I guess
if its barely above the tube then it should ok, the clamp should be secure, the rest of the hollow part of the stem to the top cap is meaningless
Get a single bolt stem like the Kore Race. The single bolt sits in the middle of the stem, so it'll definitely be below the top of your steerer tube.
You could get one of these if your worried about a loose headset while running that stem.
Sette RS-D230 Headlock at Price Point
Is it possible you could swap in your old stem that fit and get the height you need using a riser bar? Just a thought.
I don't like to compromise on the stem/steerer interface. I like 100% contact and run one spacer above the stem in order to achieve that.
The cost of being wrong, IMO, definitely outweighs any thought of using it like that. Seriously, if that were to fail during a jump or at speed, we might not see you again.
Not safe - as everyone has said.
Originally Posted by surftime
Best to get your bars up via riser bars and stick to a stem with the 30mm of length that clamps to the steerer tube (hunt and search for another similar stem with the degree of rise you need). You should be able to find a stem/bar combo that will get the bars where you need them compared to the previous owner. Other than that - you'll have to get a new fork (or at least new uppers with an uncut steerer tube).
Here is a picture - top bolt is right there actually after tightening up
Thanks for the tips guys
Its a two bold stem, so one bolt at the bottom is fine ofcourse and then one at the top is just at the steer tube. In that case why would a one bolt stem be better?
How about a longer headset bolt? Doesnt that bolt give that extra support to the top?
Look at the pic below to gt an idea of how it looks - looks better to me now that the headset is tightened down.
Its a somewhat different short high rise stem to get me the right positioning
It could hold. It might not hold.
Best bet would to get a lower profile stem.
"...like sex with the trail." - Boe
I'd look for a different stem.
Originally Posted by surftime
I don't have an engineering answer for you on why a one bolt stem that clamps below the top of the steerer tube is better than your set up with the lower bolt o.k. and the top bolt questionable but my opinion would be that a one bolt stem is designed to securely clamp with one bolt. A two bolt stem (presumably) is designed for both bolts to be functioning for it to clamp correctly. Again, just my opinion. Like someone else said, it might hold....it might not...
I'm what Willis was talkin' about
hard to tell from the picture, but the way it looks to me i'd run it no problem. the stem bolts don't just pinch in the immediate area of the bolt, there is some amount of area that is pinched and IMO 2mm would be in that safe zone.
again - i'm just a guy on the net looking at a not great picture so don't take it for the gospel...but i've run plenty of setups where the top of the steer is really close to the top bolt...i'm running one now on my AM bike (it's about 2mm from bolt center to steer tube) and i personally have no worries at all.
what would rainbow unicorn do?
Again got to ask your self if a broken face, arm, leg is really worth it. If it is go ahead and use it. But it is definitely not OK. Might work, might not, but it will be a big problem if it does not work out. Assure it will costs more in medical bills then a different fork or stem would.
i believe that's an alternative to star nuts and expansion plugs. it is not an alternative to a properly installed stem.
Originally Posted by Kona0197
to the OP. obviously that's not good and the proper solution is to use a smaller stack stem, shorter headset, or replace the fork. of course, replacing the fork is cost prohibitive, and it looks like the frame uses an internal headset, so you pretty much have a single recourse.
if you have to sacrifice stem angle for proper fork clampage, you can get back to your bar height with a hi rise bar. ideally, the steerer actually extends beyond the stem and proper compression is acheived with a 5mm spacer on top of the stem. of course, that's tough here, so your target should be to at least get the tops of the steerer and stem to be flush.
here's a thread with a couple 30mm stack height stems.
fwiw, ymmv and all that......
thanks, im going to dig around for some different stems
Originally Posted by vqdriver
There are a few 1-1/2" to 2" riser bars out there if you need to get the bars up with a low rise or zero rise stem.
I am currently running a Chromag Ranger 0 degree rise stem with a 30mm riser bar on my Nimble 9 to get the bars where I need them. FYI, the Ranger is only 28mm from the bottom to the top of the top bolt.
It also looks pretty!
Its not so much of an issue with the stem just flying off as it is letting the steer tube twist inside of it while your still holding the bars in the direction you want to go. This happened with the Thompson Elite stem and steel fork while going in to a rocky creek crossing, never knew what hit me till I looked at the bike and the wheel was turned 90* to the bars. I'm still using the same fork and haven't had a problem since I put the Chromag on.