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  1. #201
    103
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    Quote Originally Posted by alshead View Post
    Nice work 103! Where did you get the strip if aluminum? I also realized one could use a star (more permanent) or compression nut (from a headset) to use as a plug for the bottom cable routing/ stop. Is that just standard surgical tubing? I tried some anklet rubber tubing when we were playing with different options, but it would bind and catch on the cable... Looks like the regular sized stuff would've done the trick. Bet you can get it in black .
    Got all the supplies from Ace Hardware and Pep Boys. I had to go with the rubber expansion plug since my headset is tapered. I don't think anyone makes a star nut big enough for the bottom of the steerer tube with is 1 3/8". Gonna test this setup for a month. If it works without any problems, I'll re-do the bracket to make it look cleaner, use blue surgical tubing and a anodized blue ferrell cap.

  2. #202
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    1.5 star nut

    Quote Originally Posted by 103 View Post
    Got all the supplies from Ace Hardware and Pep Boys. I had to go with the rubber expansion plug since my headset is tapered. I don't think anyone makes a star nut big enough for the bottom of the steerer tube with is 1 3/8". Gonna test this setup for a month. If it works without any problems, I'll re-do the bracket to make it look cleaner, use blue surgical tubing and a anodized blue ferrell cap.
    FWIW- they do make 1.5 star nuts. I also have a tapered steerer RLC and am going to try to mimic what you did for the housing, but with the retention ring and internal spring setup... I'll post when I get around to it.

  3. #203
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    positioning of lockout lever

    Quote Originally Posted by yourdaguy View Post
    Good job 103!.

    Just a few follow up notes. I drilled the first lever on the shock and I did my RLC yesterday and decided to drill it off the shock. One of those little ball bearings fell out and I spent 30 minutes looking for it. If you take the blue lever off, be very careful not to lose any of the bearings. Also, if you do take it off, I used a small dab of grease to hold the bearings in place and when I reattached it, it seemed to be silky smooth.

    Also, I think I forgot to mention both of my blue levers are rotated one position in a clockwise direction from stock. In other words, my lever closes at the 7:00 o'clock position looking down from the bike. If you notice 103's pictures, that is the stock closing position 5:00 o'clock. This works without binding from the front position I am coming from. 103 solved the problem by coming from the rear. His solution is tidier looking but does require minimal fabrication.

    Also, the pop-locks that alshead sold me were one left and one right. I have now used both of them and can verify that either position works with the stock cables on my medium Niners. Taller riders might need to have slightly longer cables in order not the have a lot bend. The one on the RLC has a slightly shorter, stronger spring and it is perfect. The original one on the RL works great, I am just saying there is a difference of springs and if yours is not working to your satisfaction, you might try a different spring. The one I likes was aprox. 1.5" long .2" diam. and fairly strong.
    FWIW, the lockout levers can be moved, but they're not always going to be in the same position- the lockout is relative to how the entire damper assembly threaded in to your fork- This was part of the problem we encountered when trying our setup last winter- if you use an external spring, it was always going to be slightly different for different setups- great if you're doing it yourself, but not great if you're trying to sell a solution. Even when new forks come from the factory, they're at different places- one might be at 6 o'clock, one at 6:10, one at 5:45.... 7...

    And, yes, I think I mentioned the same tips about the little ball bearings a while back- those things are impossible to find

  4. #204
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    Alshead, I thought that might be the case since the position of my RL and RLC are different. So between any 2 forks there could be as much as 60 degrees of difference as to where the furthest clockwise the lock position will occur. Still I recommend the furthest possible clockwise position for using my method. I guess I just got lucky on the ball bearing find. They never came out when I took my RL apart and I kinda thought they might be slightly pressed in. As soon as I took my RLC apart, one popped out.

  5. #205
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    ^ I suppose it's less than 60 degrees since you can move the topcap/ lever- it sits on a hex piece, so you can adjust every 45 deg. Either way, it's part of why the retaining ring (and whatever Deef came up with, which I still don't totally understand) are great solutions, because you can adjust where the spring is anchored in rotation. I just picked up the aluminum, some snips and some surgical tubing at ACE and the compression/ expander from PepBoys- same parking lot. I have a 1.5 star nut on order from my LBS that I'll use when it comes in instead of the expander- has to be quite a bit lighter and maybe a little more secure... I'll update when I've set it up.

  6. #206
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    Wouldn't it be 60 degrees? 360 divided by 6. There are 360 degrees of rotation of the hex head and you can adjust in 60 degree increments. So if you rotated the hex anything less than 60 let's say 59 degrees there would still be no way to achieve the same position, but if you rotated it 60 degrees one movement on the hex would put you at the same place.

  7. #207
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    Quote Originally Posted by yourdaguy View Post
    Wouldn't it be 60 degrees? 360 divided by 6. There are 360 degrees of rotation of the hex head and you can adjust in 60 degree increments. So if you rotated the hex anything less than 60 let's say 59 degrees there would still be no way to achieve the same position, but if you rotated it 60 degrees one movement on the hex would put you at the same place.

    My bad. I think it's actually an octagonal piece. So 45 deg increments.
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  8. #208
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    Alshead, you picture in post 193 shows 6 sides.

  9. #209
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    I think that picture is a tough angle/ bad light. Check out Deef's parts in 191. 8 sides .

  10. #210
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    You are right! And under my magnifier, I can see 8 on your picture too. Guess I am going to have to think about glasses.

  11. #211
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    My RLC lever position isn't like yours 103...Is there a way to move the cartrage to position the lever to lock/unlock where you want it to?

  12. #212
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    That is what alshead and I have been discussing. You can get in a 45 degree range. Use a number 2 hex to take the top bolt out while holding the adjustment knob still. Then lift up the knob and the hex screw. You will see 3 set screws that take a number 1 hex. Loosen each one only about a turn and a half. Until you can easily lift the blue lever up. There are 3 ball bearings on the bottom **be very careful not to lose them and if they fall out dab a little grease in the hole to hold them in. You only have to lift the lever up about 1/4 inch to move it to a different location on the 8 sided nut. Make sure you can move the lever clockwise enough to lock the fork. Gently retighten the set screws while making sure the lever is not turning hard. Reinstall the top cap and screw.

  13. #213
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    Quote Originally Posted by yourdaguy View Post
    That is what alshead and I have been discussing. You can get in a 45 degree range. Use a number 2 hex to take the top bolt out while holding the adjustment knob still. Then lift up the knob and the hex screw. You will see 3 set screws that take a number 1 hex. Loosen each one only about a turn and a half. Until you can easily lift the blue lever up. There are 3 ball bearings on the bottom **be very careful not to lose them and if they fall out dab a little grease in the hole to hold them in. You only have to lift the lever up about 1/4 inch to move it to a different location on the 8 sided nut. Make sure you can move the lever clockwise enough to lock the fork. Gently retighten the set screws while making sure the lever is not turning hard. Reinstall the top cap and screw.
    Pretty sure it's a 1.5mm hex for the 3 set screws
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  14. #214
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    So does this relocate the lock position too? Or is this basically just move the unlocked lever position closer to the lock point? I guess I need to just take it apart and play. I have my RLC design drawn up and the parts list figured out, now I just need the parts. Broke as a joke...

  15. #215
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    Alshead, I am sure you are correct. The size is so small, I can't possibly read it. It is the one that is smaller than 2 that I have.

    Gokart2. The lock position moves in 45 degree increments as you put the lever on different facets of the nut. Generally, I would go as far clockwise as you can go without the lever hitting the back of the crown.

  16. #216
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    deef lock

    Hello

    I leave in france, can i buy the deef lock for my fox and where ?

    Thanks

  17. #217
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    I asked deef for the same thing but i didn't get any answer.....

  18. #218
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    Ya ... typical no reply Deef. If you want to buy ... he won't reply. Either the product is non-existant or he has NO customer relations skills. He is great at raising expectations and then making people feel stupid. Who would buy anything from him?

  19. #219
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    http://alshub.com/

    click on the top right corner for the tutorial
    "Nothing compares to the simple pleasure of a bike ride." - John F. Kennedy

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  20. #220
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    Hey guys, I've read a few people have been successful in remolding this remote lockout to be compatible with they're fox forks. I havn't tried it though it seems like it might be your best bet, and its only $30. It's quite hard to do though, so don't say you weren't warned! Hope that helps
    "Nothing compares to the simple pleasure of a bike ride." - John F. Kennedy

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  21. #221
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    On Page 3 of this thread, RobotHack used the Milo kit you're talking about- looks like quite a bit of work for the cable stop, but can definitely work. Still doesn't solve the RLC issue.

    Man, for the life of me, I can't understand how Deef's system works internally. Anyone have any ideas? I'm hoping to talk to a machining guy this week and see what he says about putting something together...

  22. #222
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    Hope this helps, different perspective:

    http://rafcryns.pinkbike.com/album/DEEF-lock-out/
    "Nothing compares to the simple pleasure of a bike ride." - John F. Kennedy

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  23. #223
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    Thanks. That is awesome to see some different perspective...and to just see that SOMEONE has actually received one. I seriously still don't understand how that anchor piece that sits inside keeps from spinning... and what's the black conical washer thingie?

  24. #224
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    I honestly don't understand how someone could spend $300, which can get you a new bike, for a little piece of metal so you don't have to bend down while riding...

    I understand with the rear shock but the front...seriously?
    "Nothing compares to the simple pleasure of a bike ride." - John F. Kennedy

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  25. #225
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    It seems that our efforts would be better spent trying to get Fox to produce a solution, since none of you fabricators seems to want to take this to scale.

    I personally don't care about lockout on the front (never use it - that's what the platform setting is for), but I would like to be able to flick the TALAS between 110 and 140 mm travel on the fly (2012 FOX 32 TALAS 140 FIT RLC), and be able to flip ProPedal on/off for the RP23 without reaching down. The RP23 seems like the low-hanging fruit here. Come on, Fox!

  26. #226
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    Fox is not remotely interested in helping you (pun intended). They want you to buy a new fork that has the lockout built in.
    Full rigid SS, Hardtail SS, Hardtail Geared, Full Suspension Geared.

  27. #227
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    Quote Originally Posted by goto11 View Post
    since none of you fabricators seems to want to take this to scale.
    Not a lack of want- a lack of time. Just a dad w a job and a family who likes bikes and likes to tinker. I hope to pick the project back up thus fall / winter.

    I personally don't care about lockout on the front (never use it - that's what the platform setting is for),
    if you have an rl, there is no platform setting
    "There are two kinds of mountain bikers in the world: those who are faster than me, and me."

  28. #228
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    Message for Robothack:

    Hi,

    I have seen your lockout modification firstly on youtube then on this forum. I must congratulate you, it's so simple and easy using parts already available from rockshox and manitou instead of all the bother of trying to invent/manufacture something from scratch as others seem to be doing all which looks totally proffesional but not achievable by all.

    I am looking at buying the complete MILO lockout kit incl lever (available for £26 at CRC in UK) and trying it myself. If you have the time, I have a few questions I would like to ask.

    1. Did the black ring, with the cable stop, require any modification before fitting and if so to what level?

    2. Was it possible to use the spring that comes with the MILO kit or is it too small or large?

    3. Did you need to seat anything below the circlip (seeger ring) to keep it engaged with the spring or is it held in place by its own tension?

    4. How did you fit the grub screw that secures the cable in place?

    5. Any other thoughts you have to make the job easier?

    Well many thanks for reading this, hope you have time to reply. I wil let you know how I get on and post some pictures on the forum if it works out

    thanks again.

  29. #229
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    als, I share your frustration for not understanding how deef's solution works. I don't even have a Fox but I keep thinking of it and how the ring could be kept in place

    Could it be that it's just pushed in with a rubber mallet? Would this require too tight tolerances?
    Then the two threaded holes could be used for removal: thread in two screws and the ring pops out. Don't know... just trying to apply some lateral thinking

  30. #230
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    @frenk: Thanks for jumping in the foray. I suppose that's possible- if you're doing the rubber mallet, it would have to be using a deep socket or the like to get around the center cylinder. For some reason, I'm skeptical that that's what's going on, but it sure would be great to hear from someone who actually has one or to see installation instructions from Deef.

    @naylor343: I'm sure RobotHack will answer at some point, but I can answer a few of your questions:

    1. Yes, it required modification- I think he talked about this earlier in this thread- and that it wasn't particularly easy modification either. I've put Milo kits together and the top cap is a bit smaller than the Fox one.

    2. I don't think you can use the spring from the Milo kit. I could be wrong and it's been a while since I worked on it, but I'm fairly certain it won't work.

    3. No, you don't need to seat anything below the internal retention clip- it holds itself in place.

    The rest is up to RH.

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    Quote Originally Posted by frenk View Post
    als, I share your frustration for not understanding how deef's solution works. I don't even have a Fox but I keep thinking of it and how the ring could be kept in place

    Could it be that it's just pushed in with a rubber mallet? Would this require too tight tolerances?
    Then the two threaded holes could be used for removal: thread in two screws and the ring pops out. Don't know... just trying to apply some lateral thinking
    frenk & als. Maybe you two guys have exceded your tinkering level. If you can get your hands on a external snap ring and find a shaft to slip the external snap ring over that has a minus factor of about 2mm, you will find that after sliping the external snap ring over the shaft and then trying to spin the snap ring, one of the two holes will let the snap ring spin like you think it will. However, if you try to spin the snap ring, using the other hole, it will force the snap ring to grab onto the shaft and not spin. I hope this helps you guys understand and get some sleep.

  32. #232
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    hmmmm.

    Quote Originally Posted by doralswheels View Post
    frenk & als. Maybe you two guys have exceded your tinkering level. If you can get your hands on a external snap ring and find a shaft to slip the external snap ring over that has a minus factor of about 2mm, you will find that after sliping the external snap ring over the shaft and then trying to spin the snap ring, one of the two holes will let the snap ring spin like you think it will. However, if you try to spin the snap ring, using the other hole, it will force the snap ring to grab onto the shaft and not spin. I hope this helps you guys understand and get some sleep.
    Hmmm- I'm not sure you get what we're talking about? The internal piece on Deef's setup isn't a snap ring- not an internal nor external ring, nor does it have those two holes like on a snap ring. I am very familiar with what you're saying as I've been running a remote with the internal retention (snap) ring for a few months with no problems, but we were talking about Deef's internal anchor for the spring.

  33. #233
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    @alshead: Many thanks, I will keep the thread updated as to how it progresses, works/fails, hope it's the former.

  34. #234
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    lockout fox rl

    deef would it be possible to buy the fork parts only as i have a lockout lever ready to use
    Last edited by brianlang; 10-12-2011 at 01:30 PM.

  35. #235
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    If you are trying to buy the lever, Rock Shox has pretty much stopped selling them as a part and now sells the adjustable one. However, if you have a fork that came with that part, you can order the replacement part for that fork. My wife's fork came with the left lever and it is the: Rock Shox Recon Silver TK 26er fork. You should be able to order a replacement lever for that fork and get what you want.
    Full rigid SS, Hardtail SS, Hardtail Geared, Full Suspension Geared.

  36. #236
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    remote lockout fox rl

    tried emailing deef no response yet will try again

  37. #237
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    Deef is not interested in helping any of us. He made 4 sets and sold them for over $200 each and he is done.
    Full rigid SS, Hardtail SS, Hardtail Geared, Full Suspension Geared.

  38. #238
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    I just stumbled on this thread.....lots of great ideas....anyone else other than Deef selling any kits?

  39. #239
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    Hello.
    I can install any remote on my fox vanilla 32 r 2008?
    10x

  40. #240
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    is deef died? fox killed him!!!!!

  41. #241
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    I recently finally got around to trying to put my kit together for the RLC, but it's not going to work- you can't put in the internal spring as the compression knob seals off that part of the top cap and makes it impossible. I'd love to see other solutions from folks using an external spring or the like. If you're toying around and trying stuff, keep posting here- this thread picks up in the winter time .

  42. #242
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    i want one deef kit....what i have to do?

  43. #243
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    Deef is dead

    Quote Originally Posted by arnaldo View Post
    i want one deef kit....what i have to do?
    Nothing. People have been trying to contact Deef for over two years. You're better off trying to put together your own solution.

  44. #244
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    ok alshead....i can product a kit fo you...do you have msn or skype to talk?

  45. #245
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    sorry but you have to geve me msn or skype...becouse i can't send you PM!

  46. #246
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    arnaldo only has 4 posts so he can't pm yet. arnaldo, do a few more posts, but the sad fact is that Deef is not selling kits, and according to him, he only made 4 kits and sold them for about what it would cost to buy the new internal parts from Fox to add a remote. Also of note, we have never heard from any of Deef's 4 customers so I am still thinking "vaporware" and that the parts Deef showed never actually worked as alshead has questioned.
    I am doing my simple light solution as seen around page 4 and have been very happy for many miles. The other solution with a fabricated bracket attached to a starnut in the bottom of the steer tube is even more robust although I have had no issues with my setup except that at around 4 months the cable or crimped end stretched enough that the fork had a little play when locked. (this was probably 400 miles and many many locks) and all I had to do was put a new crimp piece on the end. The other bike (RLC) with over 400 miles (I ride it more) is still going strong and it was my 2nd effort and probably more precise.
    Full rigid SS, Hardtail SS, Hardtail Geared, Full Suspension Geared.

  47. #247
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    ok, i hope to have soon a new kit...at the moment i'm studying the procedure to make it, but i'm sure that i can make a simply remote kit...for rl fork....and then for rp2/23

  48. #248
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    Excellent- Arnaldo- thanks for trying to hit me up on Skype- e-mail is definitely better as I'm in front of my computer usually in spurts. I'd love to chat through ideas/ designs/ concepts, and I think many of the other tinkerers on here would love to be a part of that as well. Like I said before, I'm most interested in there just being a decent solution and would love to come up with something that could be used with an RLC as well as an RL. If you're talking about fabricating pieces, I'm down to help with measurements, drawings, sketch ups, and overall design if you can do the machining. I was thinking a combination of many of the designs we've seen on this board. A fabricated lockout lever that replaces the existing one but has small cable-routing holes with set screws for anchoring the cable (like Deef's). Either a cable stop like 103's (that secures into the bottom of the steerer tube) or one like Deef's that anchors around the top cap, but with a cable stop that is further out (like 103's) to be able to use surgical tubing or a spring to allow for use with either the RL or RLC (so, no internal spring).

  49. #249
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    Just what needs to be done to get a MILO Lockout to fit onto the fork? Does anyone have experience with this mod?

  50. #250
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    RobotHack, p.3

    Quote Originally Posted by squirlyvt View Post
    Just what needs to be done to get a MILO Lockout to fit onto the fork? Does anyone have experience with this mod?
    Squirly- go back to page 3 in these forums. RobotHack did the Milo adaptation. Haven't heard from him in a little bit, but it appeared that he had to do some pretty significant dremel work/ filing to get the piece to fit around the Fox top cap. Again, this mod won't work with an RLC.

    I have copied what 103 did and it's working flawlessly on an RLC. I am working with a buddy to try to mass-produce something like this out of plastic- a lower steerer-tube anchor/ cable guide of sorts. Hope to have something in production within about a month or so- definitely by spring . The only pics I have are before I routed the cable, but I have a spring with small surgical tubing inside for the release, a RS Poploc lever, and it works like a charm.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Remote Lockout Fox RL-img_0246.jpg  

    Remote Lockout Fox RL-img_0251.jpg  


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