Page 3 of 7 FirstFirst 1234567 LastLast
Results 101 to 150 of 326
  1. #101
    mtbr member
    Reputation: alshead's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2007
    Posts
    1,562
    @Deef: Stop teasing. Do you have something to show us?

  2. #102
    4 Niners
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Dec 2008
    Posts
    2,113
    I don't have no stinking warranty issues. Both my Fox's are out of warranty anyway. I am interested in either system that can be marketable. etch, did you weld the cable stop on the back of the fork? If so, is there a way around that?

  3. #103
    mtbr member
    Reputation: andyaustin's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2007
    Posts
    9

    Mongo want!

    Me want. Where can buy? Me have paypal (and a woody)

  4. #104
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Mar 2011
    Posts
    6
    alshead ...dont think there will be any warranty issues as it can all be removed and the original manual lever refitted if required......the torsion spring needs to fixed in two positions one in the underneath of the top cap and the other fixing made so that the spring does not just rotate without tensioning the spring ......i did this by making a bush which is pressed over the central shaft you can see when the topcap is removed.
    I tried to make several topcaps from aluminium stock but the octagonal shape in the center is quite hard to get right thats why i ended up using the original topcap .
    I would have to look how much it would cost to get topcaps made now i have all the dimensions......the springs are less than a pound and i paid 26 for the poploc and cable i really didnt think there would be a market for this! just wanted to convert mine cuz i have some rockshox remote lockout forks on my other bike and wanted the same for my Anthem.
    I suppose price of machined topcaps would be dependant on volume.
    Yourdaguy......the cable stop is not welded to the fork it is held in place with a taper locking bush which fits up inside the steerer tube.........the type that holds front mudguards in place

  5. #105
    Rod
    Rod is offline
    mtbr member
    Reputation: Rod's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2007
    Posts
    4,840
    That looks awesome and I would love to have one. If you guys get something for the market send me a pm.
    There is not much choice between rotten apples.

  6. #106
    4 Niners
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Dec 2008
    Posts
    2,113
    PM hell! Subscribe to the thread and they will announce. These guys are too busy inventing to send every interested party a PM

  7. #107
    Purveyor of Trail Tales!
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Aug 2005
    Posts
    1,128
    Quote Originally Posted by yourdaguy
    PM hell! Subscribe to the thread and they will announce. These guys are too busy inventing to send every interested party a PM
    Ok, I'm subscribed!

    Thanks,

    Michael
    If you can't keep the rubber side down......at least smile for the camera!

  8. #108
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Mar 2011
    Posts
    21
    Hi all forum Users

    Alshead and Deef You have done very interesting projects. I am also currently working on implementing the concept of remote control for my Fox. But there is one problem. Most of the homemade construction is based on the use of RockShox Pop Lock shifters. But this is an effective pitch shifter links 17 mm. In this position, the Fox lockout lever fork IMHO seems to be too strong compression, especially for XC riding. Full turn Fox lockout lever is about 50 mm and shifters RockShox Pop lock is not able to handle it. Have You ever wondered how to solve this problem?

  9. #109
    4 Niners
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Dec 2008
    Posts
    2,113
    robothack: according to the Fox manual the lever does basically nothing for most of its travel. It completely locks in the last 5 mm or so. It is not a variable lever. It is either on or off. Basically you only partially open it from the locked position but this has no effect on performance. I believe this was mentioned earlier in this thread.

  10. #110
    mtbr member
    Reputation: alshead's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2007
    Posts
    1,562
    Yes- the Fox lever is either on or off (no increase in compression or anything like that in a Rock Shox- the lockout is actually a lockout). The swing to get it to open is less than 15mm- often less than 90 degrees from lockout.

  11. #111
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Aug 2008
    Posts
    4,688
    Quote Originally Posted by etch
    Hi new to this site and stumbled across this thread , i made a remote lockout for my RL fox forks and thought i would share it with you this has been on my Anthem for around 3 months and works like a dream.........using the rockshox lockout idea and a poploc i converted the fox lever by removing the lug and machining a aluminium ring to press fit around it ,then added a cable guide piece.......it returns via a torsion spring situated under the lockout ....(you dont want exposed springs which can get caught or full of dirt!) i have added a couple of pics and will add a video of the lockout working when i can.

    Why does the rebound knob turn with the lockout?

  12. #112
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Mar 2011
    Posts
    21
    I have a fork Fox 32 F-Series RL 120 Trawel produced at the end of 2009. Change the location of the lockout lever will increase compression and rotate the lever clockwise Fully lockout the fork.
    yourdaguy: According to the Fox manual

    "... the blue compression lockout lever is located below the red rebound adjuster knob. It Allows the rider to close the compression damping circuit in the fork. This keeps the fork at the top of its travel, making it harder to compress. Rotate Fully clockwise the lever to lockout the fork ... "

    There is a need to Fox lockout lever could move about 180 degrees but it is difficult to implement.
    Last edited by robothack; 03-29-2011 at 01:56 PM.

  13. #113
    mtbr member
    Reputation: alshead's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2007
    Posts
    1,562
    @Robothack: I've never seen this to be true. The only compression adjustment on the 32mm Fox forks are on RLC's and RLT's and it's a separate dial. I imagine there might be some minor bit where the valve isn't all the way released and it might affect the compression a little, but if you look at the internals of these forks, you'll see what I mean.

  14. #114
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Mar 2011
    Posts
    6
    the-one1.......the rebound dial turns with the lockout because of thre spring arrangement i use underneath the lockout, this does not effect the rebound in any way as you basically set the rebound as you would with the lockout off and your not using rebound when the forks are locked out.
    Robothack...there is no compression setting on the RL fork......The RLC fork does have compression setting and has a seperate dial for this underneath the lockout lever.
    I have found that on the RL fork the lockout lever needs very little movement to go between on/off lockout..........less than 15degrees of movement so the rockshox poploc levers are ideal for this purpose ,like i have said i have been using my lockout system for the last 3months without any problems.

  15. #115
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jan 2011
    Posts
    10
    Wow... a lot of things seem to have been changed since I last checked!

    Anyone have any ideas for an RLC version yet?

    Also I'm based in the UK and I'm sure there would be a lot of interest over here- I have friends Stateside you could post to and I could receive on this end.

  16. #116
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Mar 2011
    Posts
    21
    Alshead in my fork so it works. Change the location of the lockout lever Will Increase compression and rotate the lever clockwise Fully lockout the fork. In this position, is completely blocked.
    Yes, the RLC's and RLT's have a separate dial, but it is adjusting the Low-Speed ​​Compression it is similar to ProPedal function.
    Soon I should finish my project so I will tell how it works.

  17. #117
    mtbr member
    Reputation: alshead's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2007
    Posts
    1,562

    Manual?

    Quote Originally Posted by robothack
    Alshead in my fork so it works. Change the location of the lockout lever Will Increase compression and rotate the lever clockwise Fully lockout the fork. In this position, is completely blocked.
    Yes, the RLC's and RLT's have a separate dial, but it is adjusting the Low-Speed ​​Compression it is similar to ProPedal function.
    Soon I should finish my project so I will tell how it works.
    I'm not trying to be a contrarian, but I just don't think that's how the fork is designed. You mentioned earlier that it says something about it in your manual/ instructions. All of Fox's manuals/ instructions are online and there's nothing in there about the blue lever on an RL serving as a compression damping lever- only lockout (http://www.foxracingshox.com/fox_tec...09_OM_eng.htm).

    I am aware that between fully locked out and about 90 degrees open, there might be some "sense" of compression, but I don't think it serves to moderate compression otherwise.

  18. #118
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Mar 2011
    Posts
    21
    According to the Fox manual page 74 http://www.foxracingshox.com/fox_tec...9EnglishOM.pdf

    "... the blue compression lockout lever is located below the red rebound adjuster knob. It Allows the rider to close the compression damping circuit in the fork. This keeps the fork at the top of its travel, making it harder to compress. Rotate Fully clockwise the lever to lockout the fork ... "

  19. #119
    mtbr member
    Reputation: alshead's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2007
    Posts
    1,562

    Locked out= harder to compress.

    Quote Originally Posted by robothack
    According to the Fox manual page 74 http://www.foxracingshox.com/fox_tec...9EnglishOM.pdf

    "... the blue compression lockout lever is located below the red rebound adjuster knob. It Allows the rider to close the compression damping circuit in the fork. This keeps the fork at the top of its travel, making it harder to compress. Rotate Fully clockwise the lever to lockout the fork ... "
    Again, not trying to be argumentative- but I read this as "WHEN you close the compression damping circuit (meaning, locked out), it keeps the fork at the top of its travel."

    Both the way I read it, and from my experience riding many Fox forks and overhauling probably 50 of them, the blue lever does not have a graduated effect on the damping circuit. It is locked out or not locked out. Again, totally open to being wrong, but this is my experience and my understanding of how this circuit works.

  20. #120
    mtbr member
    Reputation: alshead's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2007
    Posts
    1,562
    FWIW, the remote kit throws the lever either on or off. No adjustable compression. I know this doesn't "prove" anything... I'm just sayin'

  21. #121
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Mar 2011
    Posts
    21
    According to my subjective feelings (I have no way to measure it ) for me it works like this
    Attached Images Attached Images  

  22. #122
    4 Niners
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Dec 2008
    Posts
    2,113
    robothack if you look at the parts of the fork taken apart it would be apparent that your impressions are not true. The way it works the port is either open or closed and it only closes in the last few degrees. Your picture could be right at 70% and lockout, because right before the port is closed, it is partially blocked. The 30 and 50 % areas are no compression areas.

  23. #123
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Feb 2008
    Posts
    17
    Update: almost al the parts are ready. Including a new type cap for the air valve!
    Soon there will be pictures.
    My lockout is working on a smaller radius. So when you use the RS lever there is enough rotation for full unlock/no compression.

  24. #124
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Mar 2011
    Posts
    21
    Hi Bikers i finished my project version 1 a remote lockout for my Fox 32 F 120 RL fork. Conception is based on the rockshox poploc lockout, modified the Fox blue compression lockout lever by hole for cable and cable bolt nut, the hole for the spring and modified rope handle and spring from Manitou MILO Adjuster Knob Kit. The torsion spring situated under the lockout lever. The system operates satisfactorily but i discussed earlier this is an effective pitch shifter links 17 mm and in this position, the Fox lockout lever fork IMHO seems to be too strong compression for XC. Perhaps in the next version of the system will operate in full adjustment needed.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Remote Lockout Fox RL-robot_remote_fox_1.jpg  

    Remote Lockout Fox RL-robot_remote_fox_2.jpg  

    Remote Lockout Fox RL-robot_remote_fox_3.jpg  

    Remote Lockout Fox RL-robot_remote_fox_4.jpg  


  25. #125
    mtbr member
    Reputation: alshead's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2007
    Posts
    1,562
    @ Robothack: Looks awesome- I'd love to see a picture of the spring setup inside. I liked your graphic, but I agree with @yourdaguy. I think there is some partial closing that you can feel between 75-100% (90 degrees, FWIW), but beyond 75% (I'd say more like 80% on my forks), there is no effective compression. The port is open.

    @yourdaguy: Yeah- what he said

    @Deef: Looking forward to it! Will your design work with an RLC? You're going to have a lot of interested folks if you can price them right.

    @Everyone else: I have two remote lockout levers (Rockshox Poploc) for sale if you want to try your own tinkering...

  26. #126
    mtbr member
    Reputation: alshead's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2007
    Posts
    1,562
    FWIW- from Eric at PUSH:

    The Float RL has rebound and lockout. The lockout lever only needs to be moved about 90 degrees to engage the lockout. There is no external compression control on the RL model. The RLC model adds the external low speed compression as well as a threshold adjust for your lockout.

    Eric M.
    PUSH Info
    1520 Taurus Court
    Loveland, CO 80537
    ph. (970) 278-1110 ext.308
    www.pushindustries.com

  27. #127
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Mar 2011
    Posts
    21
    Alshead my patented (license GPL) spring system is very simple. I used 22 mm seger ring to attach the spring and control its forces. I made a hole in the lever for the spring. The hard part is selecting the diameter of the spring and its strength but this problem can be partially offset seger ring. I'll do a few more shots of the interior soon. How does it work? Review the film.

    <object width="425" height="344"><param name="movie" value="http://www.youtube.com/v/zKuGZuYNPio?hl=pl&fs=1"></param><param name="allowFullScreen" value="true"></param><param name="allowscriptaccess" value="always"></param><embed src="http://www.youtube.com/v/zKuGZuYNPio?hl=pl&fs=1" type="application/x-shockwave-flash" allowscriptaccess="always" allowfullscreen="true" width="425" height="344"></embed></object>

  28. #128
    mtbr member
    Reputation: andyaustin's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2007
    Posts
    9
    My 2010 RL locks out with within 1/4"-1/8" movement. The whole lockout moves 90+ degrees but it has no affect for 90% of the rotation. It's just a very small rotation (10 degrees?) that the shock goes from full suspension to complete lockout.

  29. #129
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Mar 2011
    Posts
    6
    Alshead........i will post pics of my torsion spring setup when i can but it is very simple basically you need to first press a bush over the central shaft you can see when you remove the lockout lever this is a split bush and is made so the outside dia is a tight fit so when you push it on it contracts the inner hole dia to clamp it tight around the shaft(hope this makes sense) this bush has a hole in it to hold one end of the torsion spring , i made my bush from aluminium but i am experimenting with a plastic one at the moment. the other end of the torsion spring is held by drilling a hole on the underside of the lockout lever.
    The spring itself is very simple i had many attempts at making a spring and eventually found you only need a one coil spring, it needs to be left wound as the lockout revolves in a clockwise direction and the spring has a dia of 18mm approx. (1.2mm wire dia)
    The rest of my setup you can see in my video in previous post , like i say i will post pics of the spring and split bush when i can.........i also think you need a cable guide round the lockout to locate the cable properley and it looks better.
    My personal feelings is that anyone who has access to a lathe/workshop can produce a lockout that will work for them......i have no interest in producing these to sell but will help anyone who needs pics /dimensions etc to have a go at making their own.
    I have "field tested" my setup now for three months without any issues .

  30. #130
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Oct 2008
    Posts
    27
    Do you think that is possible to use the same method on a RLC removing the compression bezel? (Obviously once that is properly set!)

  31. #131
    mtbr member
    Reputation: alshead's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2007
    Posts
    1,562
    @ Robothack: Thanks- yes, I've seen the video, but I would love to see the internals. I don't totally understand how you have the seger ring situated.

    @ Etch: Nice- same thing- I'd like to see the internals. I agree about the topcap routing, but don't think it's necessary. Now we just need to find someone on this forum who has access to a lathe/ workshop who wants to mass-produce some of this stuff. That guy's not me .

    @ Matte X.0: The way these guys have it set up, it should work on an RLC- when you take the blue lever off, there's still a bunch of space below to put in a bushing or Seger ring (though I don't totally understand how that one works).

  32. #132
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Mar 2011
    Posts
    21
    Alshead unfortunately, I do not have pictures yet but the idea is really simple. Seger ring is placed under the Blue Fox lockout lever using special pliers. Elastic properties of seger ring cause it to block inside. Using these pliers can seger ring turn to set the spring force. Sieger ring has two holes one of them I use to attach the torsion spring whose other end is anchored in a hole made in ​​lockout lever.

  33. #133
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Mar 2011
    Posts
    6
    Remote Lockout Fox RL-lockout.jpg

  34. #134
    4 Niners
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Dec 2008
    Posts
    2,113
    Can you provide links to places to buy the parts so we get the correct sizes, etc.?

  35. #135
    mtbr member
    Reputation: alshead's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2007
    Posts
    1,562
    Etch- thanks. The Seger ring you're showing has tabs on the outside, which makes more sense as to how you got it to stick inside the topcap. Thanks for showing that.

    Yourdaguy- he said earlier it was a 22mm Seger ring- now we just need some info on the spring...

  36. #136
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jan 2011
    Posts
    10
    Etch are you in the UK?

    If so if you've got spare equipment then I'd be happy to buy some off you- don't really have much time to fiddle but have got a RLC fork and your method seems to be the only one that could work with an RLC setup.

    Is there any chance you could test it on a RLC fork and that way I can know if its feasible to begin work on a setup.

    Cheers, Fram

  37. #137
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Mar 2011
    Posts
    21
    Seger ring shown in Etch's picture is outer ring. He must have an internal diameter of around 13-14 mm. I applied the inner ring. He has an external diameter of 22 mm just like in this picture
    Attached Images Attached Images  
    Last edited by robothack; 04-06-2011 at 01:22 PM.

  38. #138
    mtbr member
    Reputation: alshead's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2007
    Posts
    1,562
    Etch and Robothack- I don't mean to be difficult, but a picture of your internals would be worth a thousand threads. You guys are confusing- partly because there seems to be some bit of a language barrier.

    Robothack- what do you mean outer ring? You applied the inner ring? Where? really, just show us some pictures...

  39. #139
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Mar 2011
    Posts
    21
    I mean that the seger inner (internal) ring is used inside the tube while the outer (external) ring, such as Etch, might apply to a cylinder. The real photo soon.
    Attached Images Attached Images  

  40. #140
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Apr 2011
    Posts
    1
    Is there any solution fo rlc/rlt shocks? I have one and it is really pain in the ass to reach down and turn the knob.

  41. #141
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jan 2011
    Posts
    10
    Quote Originally Posted by lampee
    Is there any solution fo rlc/rlt shocks? I have one and it is really pain in the ass to reach down and turn the knob.

    +1

    I had a rockshox recon before with remote- and it is indeed a pain.

  42. #142
    mtbr member
    Reputation: alshead's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2007
    Posts
    1,562
    I don't see why a design like etch's - with the cable routed behind the fork- couldnt work on an rlc.

  43. #143
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Mar 2011
    Posts
    23
    any news on the final versions alshead?

  44. #144
    mtbr member
    Reputation: alshead's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2007
    Posts
    1,562
    Deef- seriously. You started this thread in 2008 promising a product that nobody ever saw again, then you show up a month or so ago and say you've got something even better coming out, then you go quiet again. The masses are getting restless...

  45. #145
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jan 2011
    Posts
    10
    Absolutely, I'm really getting restless! Keep us in the loop man! Give us some sort of info!

  46. #146
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Mar 2009
    Posts
    15
    ya, this is something we'll all need to just do ourselves I think, waiting is killing us but these guys are probably busy.... SO, I'm trying to get this done.. and I'll document part numbers used and URL to buy them on-line along with pictures of the build as it comes together - it's going on a Klein Palomino XX with Fox F120RL model year 2009.

    So far I have purchased:
    1) Manitou MILO remote parts (this is hard to fit on top of the fork leg, needs modification)
    2) A 22mm Seeger Ring (Snap Ring) that I need to see if it fits inside the shaft and doesn't spin
    3) 4 different variations of Torsion springs coming in the mail today that I'll need to modify

    I hope this works!!
    Last edited by fish2live; 04-21-2011 at 03:54 PM.

  47. #147
    mtbr member
    Reputation: alshead's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2007
    Posts
    1,562
    @fish2live- let us know how it goes and where you ordered your stuff from. I've tried finding Seeger rings locally and keep striking out.

  48. #148
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Mar 2009
    Posts
    15
    I've bought everything so far from www.grainger.com. The 22mm Seeger (snap) ring had to be filed down a slight bit on the inner part (by the holes) as it was getting hung up in the slot for the small bearings used by the blue lockout ring. I don't have torsion springs yet, they are shipping from Granger and hope to see them today... and I'll need to see which one works (or not) and if I have to modify it. There is still quite a bit more work to do on this puppy...

    More to come as parts arrive but it will still be at least a week until I can get this rolling...

  49. #149
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Mar 2009
    Posts
    15
    one torsion spring arrived yesterday, 3 others are back ordered, crap... its the right diameter for sure, so that's good.. but its too tall so I'll need to cut it in half about, then bend the ends vertical... it seems to have about the right torque now with about 10 coils, but with torsion springs the fewer the # of coils the stronger (more torque) it takes to turn them, so hopefully making this shorter, to about 4 coils, doesn't make it too hard to turn... trial and error I guess.. more to come..

  50. #150
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Feb 2008
    Posts
    17
    Here is a photo from the complete new CNC 5-axis milled aluminum parts.
    Some other part like springs screw etc are not ready.
    The aluminum parts are getting at this moment nice colors by anodizing.

    You can also see the knob for the left side of the fox fork. So you dont need bleu parts on your bike from now!!


Page 3 of 7 FirstFirst 1234567 LastLast

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •