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  1. #1
    Mudder
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    Mountain Bike Lube

    It's that time to buy some new chain lube again. What is eveyone's favortite? Dry, Wet, Wax, Teflon, etc.?

  2. #2
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    I have always used Rock and Roll Gold...

    The trick with this lube is to put it on in a warm temp (or else the wax is too solidified), put it on liberally, and completely wipe it down until your chain is clean and dry. Give it a little time to dry thoroughly and you are good to go...

    SPP

  3. #3
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    29ers don't require lube.

  4. #4
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    Wet lube actually lubricates your chain much better than any wax lube can, but requires more work. But if you use it sparingly and can follow directions, it provides far superior and longer lasting lubrication. I prefer biodegradable lubricants since chain lubes are in direct contact with the environment (versus bearings grease or fork oil for instance). Pedros Chainj, Ernesto Lube, Green Oil, and Phil's Biolube come to mind for off the shelf product. I mix my own from a biodegradable bar and chain oil cut with canola oil and it has worked as well as any wet lube (bio or not) that I have ever used in 18 years of mountain biking.

  5. #5
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    +1 on the wet lube ideas above. I put it on the night before, then wipe down b4 riding the next day. It is surprising how little comes off on the rag after setting up overnight.

    Currently using Finish Line Wet, with a little brake cleaner sprayed into the bottle to thin it and help flash off the light ends, leaving the "real" lube behind, in the pins and rollers where it belongs.

    I love the idea and pure cleanliness of the dry lubes, and they work great as long as I'm not riding over an hour and a half -- which just doesn't happen very often.
    The drive towards achievement and success is the motive power of civilization.

  6. #6
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    Boeing T-9 spray. Easy to clean ... lasts a long time. Also, there's a degreaser called "El Duke" which is both a fantastic cleaner and lubricant. These are my two favorites. The T=9 is remarkable at preventing rust too on other exposed parts. Just wipe a little on things like cables and other exposed metal once in awhile and it really works. Believe me, I live in Hawaii which is ground zero for corrosion.

  7. #7
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    dumode tech

  8. #8
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    I personally use Pedro's Syn Lube and have for over a year. I have nothing but praise for it. A nice synthetic wet lube is very versatile and puts up with most any climate.

    However i will say this, proper maintanence (ie cleaning and lubing often) is infinitely more important than the lube you are utilizing.

  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by MSLKauai
    Boeing T-9 spray. Easy to clean ... lasts a long time. Also, there's a degreaser called "El Duke" which is both a fantastic cleaner and lubricant. These are my two favorites. The T=9 is remarkable at preventing rust too on other exposed parts.
    If it's good enough for aircraft parts - it's good enough for me. I love this stuff too.

  10. #10
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    I use Land 'o Lakes buttery spread. It keeps my chain rollers smiling.

  11. #11
    Vaginatarian
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    chain-l oil #5 lasts and lasts

  12. #12
    AKA Frank N. Bike!!
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    I've always used Triflow.
    My Bike: '03 Specialized HardRock FrankenBike
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  13. #13
    roll hard
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    im pretty sure i use white lightning easy lube right now..it works alot better than the grease that was on the chain when i got it..seems to work really well.

  14. #14
    willtsmith_nwi
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    Quote Originally Posted by slalomnorth65
    It's that time to buy some new chain lube again. What is eveyone's favortite? Dry, Wet, Wax, Teflon, etc.?
    Once a dry lube is displaced it stays that way. Wet lube will flow back between the rollers where it is needed.

    Actually, researchers at John's Hopkins did drivetrain efficiency tests with various lubes. Turns out that a clean chain with NO LUBE is nearly as efficient as pretty much anything else. It led researchers to speculate that the value of the lube is actually to keep out impurities.

    After I read that, there was no more dry lube. Besides, I was going through chains way too fast with the dry and it required constant reapplication.

  15. #15
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    Was the test conducted by Dr. Hannibal Lecter?

  16. #16
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    White Lightning, my old mtb lasted me over 10 years and I never once had to clean the drivetrain or replace any of it. 300 dust filled miles on the Sultan (one year old now) also using White Lightning and drive train still is clean and quiet.

    Of course I lived in Colorado and AZ so moisture isn't a concern, don't know how it holds up to water.

  17. #17
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    "Finishline Wet (Cross Country) lube" is the best lube there is hands down. I have been mountain biking 24 years have tried almost everything. A lot lubricants have hit the trash can pretty fast because they just didn't offer the same lubricating properties as Finishline Cross country. Here is a quick review!

    http://www.bikeradar.com/gear/catego...wet-lube-28377

    Here is a "tip" for you!

    Be sure to clean your chain completely with a mechanical chain cleaner and a good degreaser. Be sure to rinse the chain clean and wipe dry. (Note: Old warn out socks are ideal for chain and derailleur cleaning. (BTW finish line has two really good youtube clips on how to clean and lube your front and rear derailleurs). Not exactly the most environmentally friendly, but hey cycling season is short. And no I don’t work for Finishline!)

    http://www.youtube.com/user/caeasura#g/a

    Once the chain is sparkling clean and dry. Place a drop of lube on each pin and let capilary action do its thing. Once all the pins have a drop of lubricant on them, spin the cranks for a minute or two to work the lubricant into the chain and let stand over night or longer (unless your in a hurry). Before your next ride remove all the excess lube with a clean rag by spinning the crank and chain. I ussally do this for a minimum of two minutes. As a last step I will spray some "Break Clean" into the rag just to get the excess oil of the chain links. "Break Clean" drys really really fast so it will leave the lubricant between the pin and roller where you want it. Instead of or after using the Break Clean you can apply a little Finishlines Dry Teflon lube to help reduce friction between the chain links and the cassette. It really helps make the drive train whisper quiet and shift like a hot knife through butter.

    Check out Stephans blog it's where I picked up a lot of lubricating tips. He is obviosly payed by Finishline so can take him with grain of salt. But he has a lot of good tips and great advice there.

    http://maintainthatride.blogspot.com/

    I hope that helps!

    PAX CHRISTI

  18. #18
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    ^^^^ has wayyy to much time on his hands to go through that BS

    I use regular motor oil, whatever is laying around, its a friggin lubricant which is all that matters, the only thing that really should be done with chain lube is to apply it AFTER you are done riding while the chain is somewhat warm, helps the lube adhere to the chain, It should also be applied after riding in the wet.

  19. #19
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    Thank you farmer Brown!

    And if motor oil doesn't work you can always try KY Jelly!

    (Note: Motor oil is designed to work in a hot internal combustion engine not on a bicycle chain!)

  20. #20
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    Quote Originally Posted by sopwithcamel
    And if motor oil doesn't work you can always try KY Jelly!

    (Note: Motor oil is designed to work in a hot internal combustion engine not on a bicycle chain!)
    lol yea ok their "I have to sped money on something that says specifically what its for"

    I have used it since my first peddle bike with training wheels, works just fine. My personal favorite and what hands down has worked the best as I mentioned on another thread is NAPA chain and cable lube, used it when I had the fun park and nothing lubricated the go kart chains as well (that I personally found) but IM to lazy to purchase any now

    Of note, Wd 40 not a true lube, and I personally do not use it except for cleaning one, however I know people in the motorcycle community who use it regularly and are getting 10s of thousands of miles out a chain, could be that all a person needs to do is keep their chain lubed regardless of what type they use, novel concept, but whatever makes you sleep best at night

  21. #21
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    another vote for triflo, cheap, easy and it smells like bannanas

  22. #22
    AKA Frank N. Bike!!
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    Actually, researchers at John's Hopkins did drivetrain efficiency tests with various lubes. Turns out that a clean chain with NO LUBE is nearly as efficient as pretty much anything else. It led researchers to speculate that the value of the lube is actually to keep out impurities.
    MBA did a similar test and said that the chain actually doesn't need any lube at all.
    My Bike: '03 Specialized HardRock FrankenBike
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  23. #23
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    Quote Originally Posted by Kona0197
    MBA did a similar test and said that the chain actually doesn't need any lube at all.
    Would love to see that test, but in the real world rust is of course one of your chains main enemies which is one of the main purposes of lube, to help resist that.

  24. #24
    Former Bike Wrench
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    Quote Originally Posted by Kona0197
    MBA did a similar test and said that the chain actually doesn't need any lube at all.
    The JH test were done in a (clean) lab and only tested efficiency...not wear (though efficiency measures friction which would be an indicator of wear), if all you do is ride your bike on a trainer in a sterile environment, then you probably don't need lube.

    But as the testers admitted:
    But it (lube) may contribute to energy efficiency in the rugged outdoors. "The role of the lubricant, as far as we can tell, is to take up space so that dirt doesn't get into the chain," Spicer says. "The lubricant is essentially a clean substance that fills up the spaces so that dirt doesn't get into the critical portions of the chain where the parts are very tightly meshed. But in lab conditions, where there is no dirt, it makes no difference
    Anyone who has suffered from severe chain suck as their lubricant has failed can attest to its critical role in keeping dirt out of their chain
    Last edited by mtnbiker72; 04-05-2010 at 04:40 PM.

  25. #25
    AZ
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    mtnbiker72's formula of bio-degradable chainsaw chain lube cut with Canola oil . Works awesome and nicer to Mother Nature . Thanks for the Canola oil tip .

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