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  1. #1
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    Just curious, how much would you spend to drop 2.5 lbs off your bike...

    Assuming all things (ride, etc) are equal. Random question, but I am in the process of building up a new bike and I am starting to question myself.

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    Just curious, how much would you spend to drop 2.5 lbs off your bike...

    Except for wheels and tires, where a major benefit arrises from the weight loss, not much. My opinion is that the focus on the bike should be suspension performance and wheels and tires. Anything at or above Shimano SLX or SRAM X7 offers very little change in performance. The difference is mostly weight loss and in some cases better durability.
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    ridiculous question IMO. if all things are going to be equal, why would you spend any money at all?


  4. #4
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    Interesting responses so far. People spend incredible amounts of money to drop the weight of their bikes. I know the rolling weight of the wheel is of most importance, but I can say that riding bikes that are generally lightweight vs. bikes that are chunks, you notice a huge difference in effort exerted and how the overall bike feels (taking jumps, bunny hopping over logs, etc.).

  5. #5
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    It depends on how much the bike weighs to begin with. If it weighs 35 lbs then I wouldn't expect to pay too much (relatively) to loose 2 lbs. If the bike weighs 21 lbs then I would expect to pay a lot more. It also depends on the quality of the bike.

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    Quote Originally Posted by jlmuncie View Post
    It depends on how much the bike weighs to begin with. If it weighs 35 lbs then I wouldn't expect to pay too much (relatively) to loose 2 lbs. If the bike weighs 21 lbs then I would expect to pay a lot more. It also depends on the quality of the bike.
    Good response. Going from 26.5 to 24.

  7. #7
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    Going from 26.5 to 24 can usually be done for a couple hundred bucks depending oh what your getting. getting under 24 pounds is when it starts really costing you.
    2011 Niner EMD
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  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by LaLD View Post
    Going from 26.5 to 24 can usually be done for a couple hundred bucks depending oh what your getting. getting under 24 pounds is when it starts really costing you.
    That depends on what's been done. If a few hundred have already been spent to get from 29 to 26.5, then getting to 24 can still be pricey.

    My trail bike is sitting at 26.0 and it would cost a bunch to get it to 24.

  9. #9
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    If you really want to drop in one go, changing your suspension fork out to a Niner rigid carbon fork ought to do the trick.

    Or cut the drive train down to a single speed.

    If you want to keep all of the bike's current function, that's going to start adding up quickly.
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  10. #10
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    Depends on your budget. You can slowly find good deals over time or you can just go all out.

    For instance.
    sold my m317 wheelset for XT wheelset ~520g dropped -$40
    Mountain King 2.2 tires for Nobby Nic Evo tubless ~ 400g dropped - $50
    - 2 tubes ~ 240g dropped - $0
    swapped Aluminum bars for Used Answer Carbon bars ~ 100g dropped - $25
    Selle Italia Carbonio saddle ~ 100g dropped - $45
    Foam grips instead of lockons ~ 80g dropped - $20

    Thats about 3 lbs lost on my bike and mostly rotating mass and it cost me less than $200. I just had to look for deals.

  11. #11
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    How in the world did you get an XT wheelset for only $40 more than the m317?

    Also, where did you buy your Evos and how much were they?

  12. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by chrismtnman View Post
    How in the world did you get an XT wheelset for only $40 more than the m317?

    Also, where did you buy your Evos and how much were they?
    Bought the XTs for 190 shipped off ebay. Sold the m317s for 150 on cl.

    I got the Evos from Crosslakesales on ebay for $40 plus 10 for shipping.

    Schwalbe Nobby NIC EVO TL UST Tubeless 26" x 2 25" Pair Mountain Bike Tires New | eBay

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    Quote Originally Posted by moefosho View Post
    Bought the XTs for 190 shipped off ebay. Sold the m317s for 150 on cl.

    I got the Evos from Crosslakesales on ebay for $40 plus 10 for shipping.

    Schwalbe Nobby NIC EVO TL UST Tubeless 26" x 2 25" Pair Mountain Bike Tires New | eBay
    Ahhhh, the 26". Need the 29ers. I do like Crosslake though. Have bought other stuff from them.

  14. #14
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    The idea that only the rolling weight matters is crap. Static weight - the bike or your body or your Camel back or your bottles... absolutely "counts". But, how and why it counts is up to you.

    In 2010, a friend and I did some power calculations (using a power meter) on the way home from a race. Using the top 3 finishers' (I was 3rd) times, we determined that if my combined bike, body, gear, etc. weight were 5 pounds lighter, I'd have finished 2nd - assuming the same power output. It would've taken 13 pounds to get the first place spot. These calc's were based on static weight - not wheels/tires/tubes.

    But as LaLD already said - lightening up is very dependent on your start point. Getting my old LX-equipped GT with WTB wheels lighter was cheap. Shaving weight off my Cannondale Carbon Scalpel 1 will cost a bit more. Well, now that I swapped out the comically heavy tubes in favor of some Stans. So, in that case, I dropped .75 lbs off a $7,000 for about $2.00. I'd venture to say that's an anomaly.
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    Quote Originally Posted by OldZaskar View Post
    The idea that only the rolling weight matters is crap. Static weight - the bike or your body or your Camel back or your bottles... absolutely "counts". But, how and why it counts is up to you.

    In 2010, a friend and I did some power calculations (using a power meter) on the way home from a race. Using the top 3 finishers' (I was 3rd) times, we determined that if my combined bike, body, gear, etc. weight were 5 pounds lighter, I'd have finished 2nd - assuming the same power output. It would've taken 13 pounds to get the first place spot. These calc's were based on static weight - not wheels/tires/tubes.

    But as LaLD already said - lightening up is very dependent on your start point. Getting my old LX-equipped GT with WTB wheels lighter was cheap. Shaving weight off my Cannondale Carbon Scalpel 1 will cost a bit more. Well, now that I swapped out the comically heavy tubes in favor of some Stans. So, in that case, I dropped .75 lbs off a $7,000 for about $2.00. I'd venture to say that's an anomaly.
    Agreed that static weight is still weight. It makes the bike feel more nimble, makes it easier to control, and easier to climb with. It is also important for me to cut fat off my body (have lost 12 lbs with diet and exercise in the last 5 months) because it doesnt help me.

  16. #16
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    Quote Originally Posted by OldZaskar View Post
    The idea that only the rolling weight matters is crap. Static weight - the bike or your body or your Camel back or your bottles... absolutely "counts". But, how and why it counts is up to you.

    In 2010, a friend and I did some power calculations (using a power meter) on the way home from a race. Using the top 3 finishers' (I was 3rd) times, we determined that if my combined bike, body, gear, etc. weight were 5 pounds lighter, I'd have finished 2nd - assuming the same power output. It would've taken 13 pounds to get the first place spot. These calc's were based on static weight - not wheels/tires/tubes.

    But as LaLD already said - lightening up is very dependent on your start point. Getting my old LX-equipped GT with WTB wheels lighter was cheap. Shaving weight off my Cannondale Carbon Scalpel 1 will cost a bit more. Well, now that I swapped out the comically heavy tubes in favor of some Stans. So, in that case, I dropped .75 lbs off a $7,000 for about $2.00. I'd venture to say that's an anomaly.
    I know theoretically the weight you shave off your body should be a 1:1 ratio of benefit when compared to shaving off your bike weight, but I just have a hard time believing it is true. When I started biking seriously 1 year ago, I dropped 30lbs. I was wayyyy to skinny. I then added back on 10lbs from trying to jump up my caloric intake. I can tell you that there is a big difference in riding experience with being my current weight and riding a 20lb bike vs my previous low weight and a 30lb bike. The lighter bike you can maneuver better, jump better, etc.

    And taking that to the extreme, I know that if I tried to ride a 56.5 pound bike (if such existed) now vs. riding my current 26.5 lb bike before I lost weight would not be the same experience.

    I don't know why all that is, but I swear it is true.

  17. #17
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    One dollar per gram. Or I go on a diet.

  18. #18
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    Quote Originally Posted by chrismtnman View Post
    I know theoretically the weight you shave off your body should be a 1:1 ratio of benefit when compared to shaving off your bike weight, but I just have a hard time believing it is true.
    I don't know why all that is, but I swear it is true.
    I don't disagree. These discussions are tough - we don't live in a lab. We're working with different bodies and different bikes.

    At my current weight. I probably don't have much weight to lose. Dropping 5 pounds would be very tough to do - ensuring I'm only dropping fat. Contrast that with dropping weight on a bike - as long as you're not eliminating parts or jeopardizing strength - weight is weight.

    So, yeah - there's definitely a scenario where you're better off dropping weight from the bike. But, the guy who's carrying 15 extra pounds of fat, who drops 1 pound of fat... that's going to be the same as dropping 1 pound of (static) bike weight.
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  19. #19
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    Just curious, how much would you spend to drop 2.5 lbs off your bike...

    Quote Originally Posted by chrismtnman View Post
    I know theoretically the weight you shave off your body should be a 1:1 ratio of benefit when compared to shaving off your bike weight, but I just have a hard time believing it is true. When I started biking seriously 1 year ago, I dropped 30lbs. I was wayyyy to skinny. I then added back on 10lbs from trying to jump up my caloric intake. I can tell you that there is a big difference in riding experience with being my current weight and riding a 20lb bike vs my previous low weight and a 30lb bike. The lighter bike you can maneuver better, jump better, etc.

    And taking that to the extreme, I know that if I tried to ride a 56.5 pound bike (if such existed) now vs. riding my current 26.5 lb bike before I lost weight would not be the same experience.

    I don't know why all that is, but I swear it is true.
    That is because the bike is in many respects unsprung weight. For a straight seated climb on a smooth road, it wouldn't matter if it was on the bike or you. For everything else, you are moving the bike relative to your body so the additional weight can be felt and it takes more energy.
    Riding slowly since 1977.

  20. #20
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    Spend the money on a coach or training plan.

    Wheels and tires matter, but I would not be dropping cash on a carbon Easton seatpost to save weight. Now, if you busted something, then consider the upgrade.
    Lead by my Lefty............... right down the trail, no brakes.

  21. #21
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    Quote Originally Posted by CDMC View Post
    That is because the bike is in many respects unsprung weight. For a straight seated climb on a smooth road, it wouldn't matter if it was on the bike or you. For everything else, you are moving the bike relative to your body so the additional weight can be felt and it takes more energy.
    ^^^
    This. Any weight taken off the bike will give you more performance compared to weight taken off your body.

  22. #22
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    At a point, you start giving up a lot of performance to go lighter. At 26 pounds on most mountain bikes, you're more than likely buying unreliability and flexy parts trying to hit 24, or tires with no traction and questionable rims.

  23. #23
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    Quote Originally Posted by Dirty $anchez View Post
    One dollar per gram. Or I go on a diet.
    Son of a gun, I was gonna say that! But not the diet thing.

  24. #24
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    Quote Originally Posted by One Pivot View Post
    At a point, you start giving up a lot of performance to go lighter. At 26 pounds on most mountain bikes, you're more than likely buying unreliability and flexy parts trying to hit 24, or tires with no traction and questionable rims.
    ^That^ had to be captured and preserved as one of the all-time best comments. Part of me hopes you were kidding... but that part is overshadowed by the rest of me... that well... thinks you weren't.

    My 29" full suspension mountain bike weighs 22.7 pounds. It is the stiffest, quickest, crispest handling bike I've ever ridden. Oh, it's also an extra large too.
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  25. #25
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    I guess all of you who say 2.5lbs doesn't matter have never backpacked. It does matter. All things being equal, 2.5lbs lighter means you're gonna go up hills faster and be less tired at the end of the day.

    Simple math says it takes X amount of energy to propel you forward. You+bike equals mass. Mass divided by energy equals speed. Now is it worth it, cost-wise to go lighter? that my friends, only you can answer.

    There is a reason why the racer boys go light.

    Quote Originally Posted by One Pivot View Post
    At a point, you start giving up a lot of performance to go lighter. At 26 pounds on most mountain bikes, you're more than likely buying unreliability and flexy parts trying to hit 24, or tires with no traction and questionable rims.
    Nope. My 24lbs HT is more solid than most off the shelf 29lbs bike loaded up with cheapo crap. Low end wheels, low end forks are heavier. What you are saying is that XT stuff is gonna break before Deore. I think not.

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    my tallboy ltc is 26.5 pounds right now. The dropper post weighs 560g, vs 200g for my thompson masterpiece. My saddle was 285g, could get it down to about 150g.

    XX1 would save about 1.5 pounds over my current slx/XT drivetrain for about 1K. So for maybe 1.2K I could save 2.5 pounds.

    It doesnt seem worth it...

  27. #27
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    To make the biggest differnce, a lot of money, since wheels are expensive. To make a smaller, but more noticeable differnce than other components (besides the wheels) reducing the seat and post weight shouldnt cost too much.

    From my experience, (not my knowledge of physics because I really don't know that much about it, so anyone who does please chime in to correct) the two best places, that will make the most noticeable difference, to drop weight on a bike is the rims/tires and the seat/post.

    Dropping the wheel weight will have a bigger impact than dropping the same weight anywhere else because not only is the wheels mass moving along with the bike frame and all other components, but since the wheel is also spinning, it has more (i think about double the) kinetic energy than the frame/components, which I believe means it takes twice as much work per lb to get up to speed. Which I also think means that weight taken off the wheels will have twice the weight loss effect than taking it off the frame/components. Also, heavier wheels rotating at high speeds will feel heavier to steer due to greater gyroscopic or centrifical (not really sure which one) forces. Lighter wheels means more agile turns and better control. (not sure if reducing the hub weight would have as much as an effect as reducing the rim or tire weight, I have only changed out complete wheels.)

    The second best (and less expensive) place to lose the weight is the seat/post, since this is the highest point on the bike. Reducing weight here will help to lower the center of gravity and more importantly, make the bike feel more nimble and quicker to shift around especially when standing. (this is why I do not like heavy seats and try not to use seat bags or dropper seat post when I do not have to. Too much weight too high up, although I do admit I will use a seat bag if i need to carry a little bit of stuff [i avoid the backpack when i can since it puts the weight even that much higher] and dropper seat posts are very convenient)

    This is from my experience of tweaking with bike weight in different places since I started mountain biking as a wee lad in '89. Thats my experience, not knowledge of physics, so the bigger differnce in weight loss i felt from just these two places might just be all in my head and it might not matter where you drop the weight, but I am pretty sure it does.
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    Quote Originally Posted by One Pivot View Post
    At a point, you start giving up a lot of performance to go lighter. At 26 pounds on most mountain bikes, you're more than likely buying unreliability and flexy parts trying to hit 24, or tires with no traction and questionable rims.
    I was hoping to read this !!
    To light for rider/style does equal a whimpy/broken bike, and wasted money.

  30. #30
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    Get a loan , call up ENVE and order . Problem solved .

  31. #31
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    Know where the "porker" components are. On lower end bikes, things like the cassette, handlebar, saddle, and wheels are usually the main culprits.

    Things like the seatpost, pedals (except if you switch to basic eggbeaters), stem, headset, derailers, brakes, and actually, wheels, are extremely cost inefficient to replace and save weight.

    Only the crankset if it's a real low end bike or you are thinking about going to 1x10/1x11.

    I put wheels in both categories because high end hubs with aluminum/titanium freewheel mechs are extremely expensive. On the other hand, it's only about 100g for the rear hub that you'd usually be saving and the front hub is usually within a few grams of a "high end" model to start with. If you lay down $300 for some chinese carbon rims you can save a bunch of weight, but you'll need spokes and nipples and the real cost efficient way to do this is build your own, rather than have someone else build or buy a 600+ wheelset.

    Otherwise, when your bike has a front derailer think about switching out the rear cassette for a road 11-28t version, realize that most people never use the 1:1 combo because the gearing is so low, and you can usually train and easily overcome any lack of gearing in this way (because singlespeeders ride the same trails and have no gearing at all!), and then a light carbon handlebar, light ti or carbon railed saddle, and so on...
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  32. #32
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    Again, it depends on where you start and what you have already done. Cranks are a great place to save weight. Many are anchors and no one notices.
    I don't rattle.

  33. #33
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    For all those wondering about how much difference 2.5 lbs of non-wheel weight matters, here is the test:

    Fill two water bottles with 40 oz of water. That's not even two small (22 oz) bottles filled.

    Go for a ride and see if you notice the difference with them full or empty. If you seriously think you can tell the difference, then have a friend swap out full and empty bottles that you can't see inside of and see if you can tell which is which. I seriously doubt most folks would guess correctly more than 50% of the time. Perhaps on an 17 lb road bike you could tell, but not on most 26 lbs bikes.

    I'm sure that measured over a long distance, there will be some difference in either speed or exertion, and this matters in a race. That said I am highly skeptical of predictions based on wattage calculations. Total Wattage to average speed is not some linear relationship in a bike race. I would be surprised if it is even on most climbs other than a relatively smooth and steady one.
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    Quote Originally Posted by kapusta View Post
    For all those wondering about how much difference 2.5 lbs of non-wheel weight matters, here is the test:

    Fill two water bottles with 40 oz of water. That's not even two small (22 oz) bottles filled.

    Go for a ride and see if you notice the difference with them full or empty. If you seriously think you can tell the difference, then have a friend swap out full and empty bottles that you can't see inside of and see if you can tell which is which. I seriously doubt most folks would guess correctly more than 50% of the time. Perhaps on an 17 lb road bike you could tell, but not on most 26 lbs bikes.

    I'm sure that measured over a long distance, there will be some difference in either speed or exertion, and this matters in a race. That said I am highly skeptical of predictions based on wattage calculations. Total Wattage to average speed is not some linear relationship in a bike race. I would be surprised if it is even on most climbs other than a relatively smooth and steady one.
    I get what you are saying. I suppose if you are riding somewhat smooth singletrack that static weight wont have much of an impact. But when you are doing drops, bumps, jumps, etc it comes more in to play.

    I just dropped about 2lbs off my wheels/tires/tubes. Not only has this improved the rotating mass characteristics (accelerating, braking) but it has also made the bike much more nimble and flickable.

    Get a 2.5ft stick and attach 15 lbs on the end. swing it around. Now add 2 more lbs on the end. It will become noticeably harder and less controlled. I think frame weight is the least important area because it is the centralized part of the bike. The further from the center, the harder it becomes to control.

    Just my .02 from racing motorcycles.

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    Just weighed my new 29er (well new frame and fork, rest was from old bike) - less pedals it is 23.5 lbs. I can still drop the tubes. Already have everything I need (don't need Stan's tape on Mavic Crossmax wheels), so I wonder how much that will save in weight.

    I just can't seem to bead the tire. Need to figure that one out.

  36. #36
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    Quote Originally Posted by chrismtnman View Post
    Just weighed my new 29er (well new frame and fork, rest was from old bike) - less pedals it is 23.5 lbs. I can still drop the tubes. Already have everything I need (don't need Stan's tape on Mavic Crossmax wheels), so I wonder how much that will save in weight.

    I just can't seem to bead the tire. Need to figure that one out.
    Are they UST tires?

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    Quote Originally Posted by moefosho View Post
    Are they UST tires?
    UST Wheels, not tubeless tires. Supposedly can still go tubeless on them.

  38. #38
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    Just curious, how much would you spend to drop 2.5 lbs off your bike...

    How much would I spend to drop 2.5lbs? If I couldn't get at least 2 of those pounds from a wheels/tire upgrade I would probably look to buy a lighter bike.

  39. #39
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    Quote Originally Posted by chrismtnman View Post
    UST Wheels, not tubeless tires. Supposedly can still go tubeless on them.
    I've mounted many a non-UST tire on 26" CrossMax wheels. This:

    made life much easier. At Sears for $17.99
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  40. #40
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    High performance parts have a shorter life span, how shorter will depend on use.

    Fork, wheels, tires and cranks are the worse offenders but if you're gram counting replacing Al for Carbon on certain parts helps a little but replacing steel for Al or Carbon helps a lot; this happens on the cockpit mainly on entry level bikes.

  41. #41
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    Quote Originally Posted by DiRt DeViL View Post
    High performance parts have a shorter life span, how shorter will depend on use.

    Fork, wheels, tires and cranks are the worse offenders but if you're gram counting replacing Al for Carbon on certain parts helps a little but replacing steel for Al or Carbon helps a lot; this happens on the cockpit mainly on entry level bikes.
    Where are you guys coming up with this crap? "High performance parts have a shorter life span", "Light parts are flexy". Seriously guys. You are sooooo off base here and worse - people might believe you.

    XT, XTR, XO, XX... this stuff is light, strong, extremely high-performance and will last for *#&$ing ever if you do even the most minimal maintenance.

    My 21 lb 1995 GT Zaskar was raced for years. It's still going strong - NEVER broke a part on it!
    My 16 pound Scott Addict SL (road bike) has over 20,000 miles on it. The carbon hasn't exploded, the drivetrain has survived countless 1400 + watt sprints, the Mavic wheels have crossed thousands of pot holes, train tracks, ruts... and are laser straight.

    I swear, you guys sound like the geeks who say "Good looking girls are all meanies".
    Mountain bikers who don't road ride are usually slow.
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    ^ Yes

  43. #43
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    Quote Originally Posted by OldZaskar View Post
    Where are you guys coming up with this crap? "High performance parts have a shorter life span", "Light parts are flexy". Seriously guys. You are sooooo off base here and worse - people might believe you.

    XT, XTR, XO, XX... this stuff is light, strong, extremely high-performance and will last for *#&$ing ever if you do even the most minimal maintenance.

    My 21 lb 1995 GT Zaskar was raced for years. It's still going strong - NEVER broke a part on it!
    My 16 pound Scott Addict SL (road bike) has over 20,000 miles on it. The carbon hasn't exploded, the drivetrain has survived countless 1400 + watt sprints, the Mavic wheels have crossed thousands of pot holes, train tracks, ruts... and are laser straight.

    I swear, you guys sound like the geeks who say "Good looking girls are all meanies".
    I totally agree. XT/XTR lasts longer than Deore or Alivio. Save weight, lasts longer and yes, costs more. My guess is that most of these people don't know the difference between 5000, 6000 and 7000 series aluminum alloys. Heck they probably didn't even realize such alloys even exist.

    Back in the day some guy (can't remember his name) Strong, light, cheap-pick two.

  44. #44
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    Quote Originally Posted by moefosho View Post
    I get what you are saying. I suppose if you are riding somewhat smooth singletrack that static weight wont have much of an impact. But when you are doing drops, bumps, jumps, etc it comes more in to play.

    I just dropped about 2lbs off my wheels/tires/tubes. Not only has this improved the rotating mass characteristics (accelerating, braking) but it has also made the bike much more nimble and flickable.

    Get a 2.5ft stick and attach 15 lbs on the end. swing it around. Now add 2 more lbs on the end. It will become noticeably harder and less controlled. I think frame weight is the least important area because it is the centralized part of the bike. The further from the center, the harder it becomes to control.

    Just my .02 from racing motorcycles.
    Yes, that is why I was specifying "non-wheel" weight. 2.5 lbs on a tire or rim is going to be noticeable.
    15mm is a second-best solution to a problem that was already solved.

  45. #45
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    I am amazed at how many people can't just accept the hypothetical premise of the question and answer it.

    These days, for non-rotating weight, I think I would spend about $0.50 per gram of weight loss. I used to go about $1 per gram, but I've got different priorities for the bike these days.
    15mm is a second-best solution to a problem that was already solved.

  46. #46
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    Quote Originally Posted by kapusta View Post
    I am amazed at how many people can't just accept the hypothetical premise of the question and answer it.

    These days, for non-rotating weight, I think I would spend about $0.50 per gram of weight loss. I used to go about $1 per gram, but I've got different priorities for the bike these days.
    Doing the math by your figures it would cost $560 to drop 2.5lbs. Well worth it IMO.

    Truth be told, don't buy an off the shelf bike. Build it yourself and save weight and money...if you have the skills

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    Quote Originally Posted by Mr5150 View Post
    Doing the math by your figures it would cost $560 to drop 2.5lbs. Well worth it IMO.

    Truth be told, don't buy an off the shelf bike. Build it yourself and save weight and money...if you have the skills
    Bought a good deal on a used bike, took apart everything, bought a new frame and front shock, selling old frame and fork, and got to 23.5 for a grand. The wheels are $800 new. Pretty happy with it all.

  48. #48
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    For some numbers, I dropped 2.5lbs from my new fat bike by switching to a light 160g carbon bar, ultegra cassette, ti railed saddle, and light (standard) tubes.

    Cost to drop 1lb (bar, cassette, saddle) $310

    Cost to drop the additional 1.5lbs (tubes) $20

    The stock tubes were absolutely insanely heavy. Must be motorcycle tubes or something crazy!

    It varies so much by bike though. I calculated to drop the same amount on my new bike that hasn't arrived yet will be $650, which includes ditching the front shifter and derailer, converting to tubeless (those things are essentially free), carbon cranks, another ultegra cassette, another carbon handlebar and light saddle. This bike starts out much lighter (or the frame is heavier and it already has lightish components), and it gets hard to save weight when it is lighter already, and you get very marginal gains with upgrades, yet that's the only way to get those gains. More than twice as much to save the same amount of weight is a little ridiculous. If you've ever wondered how people end up with 22-23lb XC FS bikes and 26lb 6" travel bikes, well you've got to go high end on most everything, XTR or XX1 cranks, carbon rims, high end DT swiss or other hubset, XTR derailer, and so on. The price of just a few components added together can quickly equal more money than you paid for your bike.

    So it can be done, you can do it in certain ways that keep price down and make you compensate a little (road cassette, lightweight saddle, eggbeaters, no front derailer, tubless) but you can't always do that, and the "other way" is usually very expensive.
    "It's only when you stand over it, you know, when you physically stand over the bike, that then you say 'hey, I don't have much stand over height', you know"-T. Ellsworth

    You're turning black metallic.

  49. #49
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    Just curious, how much would you spend to drop 2.5 lbs off your bike...

    Quote Originally Posted by Mr5150 View Post
    I totally agree. XT/XTR lasts longer than Deore or Alivio. Save weight, lasts longer and yes, costs more. My guess is that most of these people don't know the difference between 5000, 6000 and 7000 series aluminum alloys. Heck they probably didn't even realize such alloys even exist.

    Back in the day some guy (can't remember his name) Strong, light, cheap-pick two.
    Keith Bontrager and it is still true today.
    Riding slowly since 1977.

  50. #50
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mr5150 View Post
    Doing the math by your figures it would cost $560 to drop 2.5lbs. Well worth it IMO.
    Yes, that would be well worth it. Unfortunately it is seldom doable once you have a decent sped to start with. Easier to do when you already need to buy a part, and then you are just looking at the cost difference between the lighter and heavier parts. Buying new parts to replace working ones just to loose weight is a much more expensive way to go.

    Keep in mind that the OP is specifying "all things equal". In other words, lighter with zero compromises. I could EASILY loose 2.5 lbs off my 31 lb bike for well under $560, but I am not willing to make the compromises.

    Truth be told, don't buy an off the shelf bike. Build it yourself and save weight and money...if you have the skills
    As someone who built too many bikes to count, I agree that it can be lighter (or whatever you want it to be).... but cheaper? Usually not.

    Yes, you can be patient and find great deals on discounted and used stuff and build custom for cheaper than many people realize, but if you put that same energy into looking for discounted or used complete bikes, you will get it even cheaper.

    However, the price comparison is a little beside the point, because you are likely not building the same bike you would buy complete. I build custom because it is the only way to get exactly what I want, or because I already have a lot of the needed parts (so in that sense it is cheaper).
    15mm is a second-best solution to a problem that was already solved.

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