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  1. #1
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    Greasing suspension bearing pockets??

    I have a strange potential solution to a popping sound I often hear while pedaling.

    My Yeti ASR-5 has performed flawlessly for 18 months other than an annoying popping/cracking/crunching sound I hear pedaling. I think I've narrowed it down to the main pivot point on my carbon fiber swingarm. I determined that by basically taking the whole frame apart aside from the main pivot and moving the swingarm side to side. The pop can be heard then. It's not a crack, as far as I can tell. I figured it's a worn bearing.

    But then I noticed something else. The sound is almost always completely gone after a stream crossing.

    Could water around the bearing cause the sound to stop? If that's the case, could greasing the pocket in the carbon fiber swingarm where the bearing sits eliminate the popping sound? Does anyone lube these pockets?
    I live with fear and danger every day. And on the weekends she lets me go mountain biking.

  2. #2
    Front Range, Colorado
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    Sorry your post reminded me of this.
    https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=N-i9GXbptog
    ----------- __o
    --------- _`\<,_
    BRAAP(>)/ (*)
    ************^^^^^^^Rock Garden

  3. #3
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    Ha! Love Jim Gaffigan! He's playing Atlanta in October...gotta go see him.
    I live with fear and danger every day. And on the weekends she lets me go mountain biking.

  4. #4
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    lubing bearing pockets

    Yes, I was tortured by clicking under pressure on my Niner. Tried everything, BB, etc., then pulled all the bearings and lubed the pockets. Reassembled and noise gone forever.

    Chris

    Quote Originally Posted by KevinGT View Post
    I have a strange potential solution to a popping sound I often hear while pedaling.

    My Yeti ASR-5 has performed flawlessly for 18 months other than an annoying popping/cracking/crunching sound I hear pedaling. I think I've narrowed it down to the main pivot point on my carbon fiber swingarm. I determined that by basically taking the whole frame apart aside from the main pivot and moving the swingarm side to side. The pop can be heard then. It's not a crack, as far as I can tell. I figured it's a worn bearing.

    But then I noticed something else. The sound is almost always completely gone after a stream crossing.

    Could water around the bearing cause the sound to stop? If that's the case, could greasing the pocket in the carbon fiber swingarm where the bearing sits eliminate the popping sound? Does anyone lube these pockets?

  5. #5
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    By pocket are you talking about where the bearing presses into? A lot of installations call for Loctite or similar locking compounds.

  6. #6
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    Yes, pockets or "bearing seats". I checked some Niner specs. and there was no reference to Loctite or similar. Somehow I suspect that the loctite bond couldn't hold up to the repeated impacts and lateral loads. Those rear suspension bearing definitely creaked in their pockets before my fix. Chris.

  7. #7
    > /dev/null 2&>1
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    Re: Greasing suspension bearing pockets??

    Asr5 manual calls for loctite on the bolts (well, certain ones) but does not walk you through a bearing replacement so it doesn't specify whether grease should be used. I used grease when I replaced mine, after watching several bearing replacement vids for different bikes - grease was called for more often than not. Also the asr5 has some tight areas for install, where it's difficult to fully support the the piece being pressed into. . . Compared to some frames with more space or with bearings pressed directly into frame. So I felt grease was necessary to minimize stress on the two protruding arms on the lower pivot and the protruding arms in the wishbone link during press.

    Also removing the existing bearings will trash them because the bearing rests against small flanges or stops on the triangle and the wishbone. These stops mean you can't use the spec'd drift to extract, and you've gotta hammer out the bearing using pressure on the inner bearing surface, which damages it. So you'll need to replace them with new from yeti, the wishbone bearings are not available after market. If you just replace the lower pivot bearings you can use regular enduro max for those.

  8. #8
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    agreed. I did in fact reuse my bearings (after flushing and regreasing) I did carefully knock them out/in with drifts, socket heads etc.., and no doubt did some long term damage to them, but they felt smooth and the pivots felt good after assembly so we'll just see what happens. Chris.

  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by Procter View Post
    Also removing the existing bearings will trash them because the bearing rests against small flanges or stops on the triangle and the wishbone. These stops mean you can't use the spec'd drift to extract, and you've gotta hammer out the bearing using pressure on the inner bearing surface, which damages it. So you'll need to replace them with new from yeti, the wishbone bearings are not available after market. If you just replace the lower pivot bearings you can use regular enduro max for those.
    Thanks! How tough are those lower pivot bearings to extract? I found the Enduro Max replacements for far less than the full Yeti rebuild kit but I'm worried about being able to get them out. Do I have to remove the entire swingarm to do it or can I just take the linkage and crank off?
    I live with fear and danger every day. And on the weekends she lets me go mountain biking.

  10. #10
    > /dev/null 2&>1
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    Re: Greasing suspension bearing pockets??

    Quote Originally Posted by KevinGT View Post
    Thanks! How tough are those lower pivot bearings to extract? I found the Enduro Max replacements for far less than the full Yeti rebuild kit but I'm worried about being able to get them out. Do I have to remove the entire swingarm to do it or can I just take the linkage and crank off?
    You'll probably want to remove the entire swingarm so that you can support it properly with some scrap wood and get good leverage on it with your press or your bolts and washers . I think I used a mix of tapping out and sockets + bolts +washers , since the standard drift won't fit (blocked by the stop / flange). If you need to tap it out, go to your local auto parts store and get a pack of assorted woodruff keys. These semi circular pieces can be placed across the inner diameter of the bearing to provide a good tapping surface which is in line with the axis of the bearing. Safer than tapping around the edge, which always creates some angle between the bearing and the bearing pocket.

    See here for an example :

    http://youtu.be/1YfBoroIc_A

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