Page 1 of 2 1 2 LastLast
Results 1 to 25 of 41
  1. #1
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jul 2011
    Posts
    352

    Pedros Ice Wax 2.0 -- moved from frustrated to IMPRESSED! see page 2

    After costing me a brand new chain, let's see if I've got this right. This stuff doesn't seem to last more than 1 ride, and given a typical ride for me is 1-2 hours with squeaks mid-ride, it's feeling like the longevity of one application is HALF a ride (for me practically speaking)! Am I doing/understanding something wrong here? For this lube to work, I have to clean the chain after EVERY ride, and lube the chain after EVERY ride? IF that's true, anybody have any better alternatives (still environmentally safe?) with some reasonable longevity? Or ... does "apply liberally" for this product mean "drown the chain in this or it simply won't work after 10 minutes of riding"?

    I ride in all kinds of conditions (dry, mud, wet, snow), but mostly dry/dusty. Appreciate any help.
    Last edited by weekendthrasher; 03-29-2012 at 07:55 AM. Reason: no longer appropriate

  2. #2
    canuck
    Reputation: Aaron D's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2005
    Posts
    707

  3. #3
    A guy on a bike Moderator
    Reputation: TobyGadd's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2009
    Posts
    903
    Boeshield T-9 has worked well for me (although it's not very green). So has Squirt (which I think is pretty green). Apply the night before riding.

  4. #4
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    May 2006
    Posts
    10,971
    Quote Originally Posted by weekendthrasher View Post
    After costing me a brand new chain, let's see if I've got this right. This stuff doesn't seem to last more than 1 ride, and given a typical ride for me is 1-2 hours with squeaks mid-ride, it's feeling like the longevity of one application is HALF a ride (for me practically speaking)! Am I doing/understanding something wrong here? For this lube to work, I have to clean the chain after EVERY ride, and lube the chain after EVERY ride? IF that's true, anybody have any better alternatives (still environmentally safe?) with some reasonable longevity? Or ... does "apply liberally" for this product mean "drown the chain in this or it simply won't work after 10 minutes of riding"?

    I ride in all kinds of conditions (dry, mud, wet, snow), but mostly dry/dusty. Appreciate any help.
    Works for me...If I remember correctly the "Wax" is in solution with ethyl alcohol...your apply and let it soak in then wipe off the excess....no need to clean the chain...

    I bought it first cause I thought it was for Ice and snow etc.....That is the only time I use it, seems to seal out the crap pretty good....but seems to be a little "thick" for summer riding.

  5. #5
    Elitest thrill junkie
    Reputation: Jayem's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2005
    Posts
    18,505
    Quote Originally Posted by weekendthrasher View Post
    After costing me a brand new chain, let's see if I've got this right. This stuff doesn't seem to last more than 1 ride, and given a typical ride for me is 1-2 hours with squeaks mid-ride, it's feeling like the longevity of one application is HALF a ride (for me practically speaking)! Am I doing/understanding something wrong here? For this lube to work, I have to clean the chain after EVERY ride, and lube the chain after EVERY ride? IF that's true, anybody have any better alternatives (still environmentally safe?) with some reasonable longevity? Or ... does "apply liberally" for this product mean "drown the chain in this or it simply won't work after 10 minutes of riding"?

    I ride in all kinds of conditions (dry, mud, wet, snow), but mostly dry/dusty. Appreciate any help.
    Dry lubes typically work best in dry conditions, and have to be applied before hand of course, wet lubes typically work well in wet conditions, and attract more junk. Dumonde Tech is kind of in-between, a "polymer-based" lube that should still be applied ahead of time, but it seems to span both areas and if applied ahead of time, doesn't attract much junk either. As soon as your "dry lube" is exposed to a creek crossing or a little mud, it usually becomes ineffective pretty fast. Wet lube can make it look gunky as heck, but works better in these situations. Best is to carry a little bottle of wet lube with you (they make the little sample-sizes and these are perfect, in fact, just fill it up with some mobile 1 synthetic or something, doesn't need to be anything special).
    "It's only when you stand over it, you know, when you physically stand over the bike, that then you say 'hey, I don't have much stand over height', you know"-T. Ellsworth

    You're turning black metallic.

  6. #6
    Mountain Man Dan
    Reputation: ProjectDan35's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2010
    Posts
    2,181
    Chain L No. 5

    End of story. Lasts multiple rides, but does take a bit more effort to apply.
    The bike is nothing more then circles turning circles, It's the human motor that makes it elegant.

  7. #7
    mtbr member
    Reputation: Tystevens's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2011
    Posts
    1,448
    T9 works for me. Seems to last multiple rides, my chain stays much cleaner than it was with Triflow.
    '11 Specialized Enduro Expert for the trails
    '13 Felt Z4 for the road

  8. #8
    MoJo Moto
    Reputation: motopail's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2008
    Posts
    229
    Yea... I tried the Pedro's Ice Wax also.

    I could get 8 miles before my chain was noisy. And I don't do mud.


    So I went to the reviews and ended up with Prolink.... Runs clean.
    Ride Hard or Ride Home Alone.

  9. #9
    mtbr member
    Reputation: mtbzarg's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2011
    Posts
    236
    Quote Originally Posted by Aaron D View Post
    +1

    It's the best!

  10. #10
    Air Pirate
    Reputation: Bokchoicowboy's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2007
    Posts
    843
    I have tried most of the Dry or Wax base lubes and have never been happy with their performance or longevity. It just does not seem to get in between the plates of the chain links as well as the wetter lubes. I have had good luck with the Finish Line dry lube (red bottle), as it seems to be a bit "wetter" than the other dry lubes. The F.L. wet lube (green bottle) is pretty good, but not too much different than Triflow, which is an old standard I return to a lot. I just make sure that after I soak the chain in any lube I wipe off everything I can, since any visible lube only catches dirt and crud and does nothing else.
    "You're messing with my zen thing, man!"

  11. #11
    ouch....
    Reputation: Shark's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2006
    Posts
    4,212
    Finish line teflon dry here, can go 40+ miles no squeaking.
    Riding.....

  12. #12
    High Gravity Haze
    Reputation: Spec7's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2000
    Posts
    404
    Another vote for Boeshield T-9 here. Been using it for years after using Tri-Flow, Pedro's ICE wax, Finish Line Teflon and a few others. The T-9 has been the longest lasting and most dependable, though the most expensive as well.

  13. #13
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jul 2011
    Posts
    352

    ice wax chemical smell?

    in the past i've lubed my bike with the ice wax 2.0 in the driveway. was not intentional, it's just the way it's worked out. the reason i bring this up is i finally got around this past weekend to setting aside some working area in the garage for our bikes. so ... lubed in the garage last night, with cardboard underneath to catch any excess flow. opening the garage this morning to get the car almost knocked me over with the chemical smell. i had never come across this before. is this common? particular to this lube or does Finish Line wet have similar after effect? how long does it last?

    is it proper (better?) protocol to just lube at the trail after a ride?

  14. #14
    DynoDon
    Reputation: manabiker's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2010
    Posts
    1,667
    Finish Line Ceramic Wax works great for me in all conditions, it keeps things CLEAN, last a couple rides, I guess its green, easy to use, no chance of overspray to brakes.
    Four wheels transport the body,

    Two wheels transport the soul !!!!

  15. #15
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jul 2011
    Posts
    352
    do you degrease the chain to clean it before relubing, or just rub dry with a clean towel then relube, or just relube as needed without any prep for chain?

  16. #16
    DynoDon
    Reputation: manabiker's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2010
    Posts
    1,667
    I just relube with Finish Line Ceramic Wax, lube, let set a few minutes, wipe with rag, reapply after a few rides, I haven't tested it to see how long I can go before it squeeks, I have gone 50 miles or so though with no squeeks. I live in Michigan and ride in all conditions. I clean the cassette with a Park brush once a month or so. People who see my driveline always ask what I use.
    Four wheels transport the body,

    Two wheels transport the soul !!!!

  17. #17
    mtbr member
    Reputation: OneEyeMan's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2005
    Posts
    608
    Here's all you need to know about chain lubing:
    - buy one of those cheap plastic clamp on chain cleaner things
    - buy ProLink chain lube
    Use them regularly.
    ProLink cleans and lubes the chain, and totally dries.
    Doesn't attract any dirt.
    I strain the dirty ProLink after use using a funnel and a wadded up piece of rag stuffed in it.
    Pretty much lasts forever this way.
    I've also used Boeshield which is quite good also.
    Lenny

  18. #18
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jul 2011
    Posts
    352
    understood, and ProLink appears to be well recommended. some confusion with respect to wax based lubes on my part. since it runs clean some say there's no need to degrease before relubing, just wipe chain clean. while others have told me it needs to be degreased to get rid of any wax coating still on the chain to properly absorb new wax based lube. i'm just trying to straighten this out so i can give the lube an honest-go for my personal experience of gauging how it works for me ... before switching to ProLink or Finish Line wet.

  19. #19
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Mar 2008
    Posts
    448
    i like the wax as it definitely runs cleaner. I try to reapply the night before every ride and degrease every 3rd or 4th ride because by then it's noticeably less smooth.

  20. #20
    mtbr member
    Reputation: dhmtbj's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2009
    Posts
    19
    weekendthrasher, sorry to hear about your frustrating experience with Ice Wax 2.0. My name is Jay and I am the product manager and engineer at Pedro's. Hopefully I can help you get the most of out your Ice Wax 2.0. First, I want to make sure you don't have one of the bad bottles of Ice Wax 2.0 from a batch of bad Ice Wax 2.0 we had in 2010 that thickened over time due to improper manufacturing causing reactions with the natural ingredients. If you think you have a bottle from this batch we are happy to replace it. The correct formula is pretty thin and was designed this way for two reasons. The first is to help Ice Wax 2.0 penetrate into the chain where it is needed. The second is that Ice Wax 2.0 has a detergent action when applied and binds with contaminants and then helps push them out of the chain. Assuming you have the correct, thinner formula, please try the following approach:

    1. Degrease your chain and let dry.
    2. Apply Ice Wax 2.0 to the rollers of the chain (directly down the center looking from the top). This is the only part of the chain where you want lubricant.
    3. Wait a few minutes to let the lubricant penetrate.
    4. Surround the chain with a rag or towel and wipe away any extra lube from the outside surfaces of the links and the outer roller surfaces. This should leave plenty of lubricant on the internal surfaces of the chain where you want it, and a thin protective layer of lubricant on outer surfaces to help prevent dirt and ingress from reaching the inner surfaces. If there was some dirt or ingress left in the chain after degreasing, you may notice that the rag is a bit dirty after wiping the chain. If this is the case, you can repeat steps 2-4 applying a second lighter coating of lubricant.
    5. Lastly, allow time for the Ice Wax 2.0 to dry and set up on the chain. Ideally, you would lube your chain at least an hour or so before riding, but even 15-30 minutes will help the lubricant set up and help it last longer.
    6. Ride! Ice Wax 2.0 should last for a few mountain bike rides at the very least, but the telling sign is how the chain feels. After letting it set up and before heading out for a ride, touch the chain rollers between your fingers and notice that you can feel the wax on the chain. it should feel just a little tacky. When reapplication is needed, you will no longer feel this coating on the surface of the chain. Assuming you havenít been riding in extreme mud or rain, you should be able to use steps 2-5 only, no longer needing to degrease as often, using the Ice Wax 2.0 to push out contaminants each time you reapply.

    Please let me know if I can help any further!

  21. #21
    mtbr member
    Reputation: dhmtbj's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2009
    Posts
    19
    Quote Originally Posted by weekendthrasher View Post
    in the past i've lubed my bike with the ice wax 2.0 in the driveway. was not intentional, it's just the way it's worked out. the reason i bring this up is i finally got around this past weekend to setting aside some working area in the garage for our bikes. so ... lubed in the garage last night, with cardboard underneath to catch any excess flow. opening the garage this morning to get the car almost knocked me over with the chemical smell. i had never come across this before. is this common? particular to this lube or does Finish Line wet have similar after effect? how long does it last?

    is it proper (better?) protocol to just lube at the trail after a ride?
    Ice Wax 2.0 does have a fairly strong fragrance compared to some lubricants but it is the wax that you are smelling and it is harmless. From my experience many other wax lubricants have a strong smell due to the high alcohol content used. Ice Wax 2.0 is water based so you should only be smelling the wax.

  22. #22
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jul 2011
    Posts
    352

    dhmtbj

    greatly appreciate you taking the time to give me the feedback. as you can probably discern, i'm not quick to leave a product until i'm sure i've done it justice. my chain runs clean, but efficiency has been lacking though in all honesty it doesn't look like i maintained it the best way possible for the lube and riding i was doing. however, that being said, i'm doing that now, BUT i wouldn't describe the lube i have as 'thin'. is there a product code range i could check to know whether or not i have one from a bad batch? if not, would you be willing to send me a bottle that you know is current and proper? i live in Toronto, Canada, and just want to be sure. would be fair to describe both mine and my wife's bikes as high-end so would love the peace of mind that i'm not being counterproductive by doing the right things with the wrong bottle per se. i've already had to replace a brand new chain after 2 mths of riding.

  23. #23
    mtbr member
    Reputation: dhmtbj's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2009
    Posts
    19
    Quote Originally Posted by weekendthrasher View Post
    greatly appreciate you taking the time to give me the feedback. as you can probably discern, i'm not quick to leave a product until i'm sure i've done it justice. my chain runs clean, but efficiency has been lacking though in all honesty it doesn't look like i maintained it the best way possible for the lube and riding i was doing. however, that being said, i'm doing that now, BUT i wouldn't describe the lube i have as 'thin'. is there a product code range i could check to know whether or not i have one from a bad batch? if not, would you be willing to send me a bottle that you know is current and proper? i live in Toronto, Canada, and just want to be sure. would be fair to describe both mine and my wife's bikes as high-end so would love the peace of mind that i'm not being counterproductive by doing the right things with the wrong bottle per se. i've already had to replace a brand new chain after 2 mths of riding.
    The batch that thickened generally got to the point where it would come out of the bottle like thick mustard or grease. While the correct formula is much lower viscosity than the problem batch, it is still thicker than a typical oil chain lubricant. If possible, please squeeze a small amount onto a table or other similar surface, take a photo, and send it to tech@pedros.com. I should be able to tell you if you have the correct formula and offer further help. Thanks.

    Jay

  24. #24
    No good in rock gardens..
    Reputation: Sideknob's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2005
    Posts
    3,784
    Quote Originally Posted by natrat View Post
    i like the wax as it definitely runs cleaner. I try to reapply the night before every ride and degrease every 3rd or 4th ride because by then it's noticeably less smooth.
    That's my routine in dry conditions too. I'm running Rock N Roll and Finish Line wax. If it's wet and muddy I clean the chain every ride.
    My Cannondale Lefty keeps failing....

  25. #25
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jul 2011
    Posts
    352

    dhmtbj/Jay

    Jay, that description of thickness ("thick mustard") doesn't sound like it applies to me, but I will send pictures tonight nonetheless. I'd best describe it as looking like skim milk, so sounds like I should be fine and issues are probably borne by less diligence on my part than was required. Again, appreciate the help and look forward to any feedback after I send the pictures.

    Regarding your earlier instructions, could you help with some extra details:
    1. "Degrease your chain and let dry" -- Would you allow 10 minutes air-dry or fair to assume a few wipes with a towel is sufficient?
    3. "Wait a few minutes to let the lubricant penetrate" -- How many times should I cycle the chain backwards after the full chain is lubricated or should I not cycle it at all?
    6. "... Assuming you havenít been riding in extreme mud or rain, you should be able to use steps 2-5 only, no longer needing to degrease as often, using the Ice Wax 2.0 to push out contaminants each time you reapply" -- Does this mean aside from wet/muddy conditions, I should be able to simply reapply the lube after a couple rides (in dry/dusty conditions) without degreasing the chain and still get maximum usage? Would degreasing be better or simply wasting money and time if I'm using Ice Wax as my main lube?

    Lastly, to be clear, which lube would be better suited to snow/muddy conditions -- Ice Wax or Pedros Synlube or ...?

    Thanks for any help.

Page 1 of 2 1 2 LastLast

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •