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  1. #26
    I Tried Them ALL... Moderator
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    Un-press(punch) out those straight steer tube adapters.....done. Step-away from the boring press.
    "The mind will quit....well before the body does"

  2. #27
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    Even with 54mm ID the wall thickness would be just above 5mm, sounds like plenty - will have to verify that somehow

  3. #28
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    Quote Originally Posted by Zachariah View Post
    Un-press(punch) out those straight steer tube adapters.....done. Step-away from the boring press.
    Thats isnt an adaptor, its the cup

  4. #29
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    Punch out the current headset cup and have a look around to see what's going on there, if the headtube really is one piece or there's an adapter pressed in.

    If you do decide to go ahead with the bore, and you really really want a zero stack headset, you should know that FSA makes a zs49/40 bottom cup. So there's no need to bore all the way to the zs56 standard, going from 44 to 49 seems quite safe to me considering the wall thickness seen in the photos.

    FSA Gravity 2 ZS49/28,6 - ZS49/40 Steuersatz gŁnstig online kaufen - bike-components

  5. #30
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    Modifying it makes it worthless...

    Quote Originally Posted by Danielmessem View Post
    Thats isnt an adaptor, its the cup
    That is a lot of work, for that frame. I say sell it and buy something with dedicated tapered headset. Appears the frame has a tapered "reinforcement" outer head tube, which is still probably 80-90% as stiff. Lots of bikes compete with and exceed this Scott model.
    "The mind will quit....well before the body does"

  6. #31
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    Quote Originally Posted by syl3 View Post
    Punch out the current headset cup and have a look around to see what's going on there, if the headtube really is one piece or there's an adapter pressed in.

    If you do decide to go ahead with the bore, and you really really want a zero stack headset, you should know that FSA makes a zs49/40 bottom cup. So there's no need to bore all the way to the zs56 standard, going from 44 to 49 seems quite safe to me considering the wall thickness seen in the photos.

    FSA Gravity 2 ZS49/28,6 - ZS49/40 Steuersatz gŁnstig online kaufen - bike-components
    Oh nice find, thanks!

  7. #32
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    Quote Originally Posted by Zachariah View Post
    That is a lot of work, for that frame. I say sell it and buy something with dedicated tapered headset. Appears the frame has a tapered "reinforcement" outer head tube, which is still probably 80-90% as stiff. Lots of bikes compete with and exceed this Scott model.
    That just wouldnt be as much fun

  8. #33
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    Quote Originally Posted by Danielmessem View Post
    From the manual the same headtube comes with either 44mm or 54mm bore...
    on that note, i redact my previous statement and apologize for going there...


  9. #34
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    What are the IDs and ODs you're quoting?

    I thought the OD for a 1-1/8" steer tube was 1-1/8". And for tapered, it necks up to 1.5" at the bottom. Which is still about 38 mm, so less than 44 mm. I think you need to pull your headset and see what's going on in there.

    Personally, I'd be disinclined to do this. Fit specs are often very tight-tolerance, so unless you're set up to ream and hone too, and you can get really good concentricity, I see a lot of ways for this to work out poorly. I'd be more inclined to make an adapter or my own bearing arrangement.
    "Don't buy upgrades; ride up grades." -Eddy Merckx

  10. #35
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    The tolerance is tight, but 0.05mm is ok on a mill

    The 44mm I'm refering to is the ID of the headtube lower

  11. #36
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    Quote Originally Posted by AndrwSwitch View Post
    What are the IDs and ODs you're quoting?

    I thought the OD for a 1-1/8" steer tube was 1-1/8". And for tapered, it necks up to 1.5" at the bottom. Which is still about 38 mm, so less than 44 mm. I think you need to pull your headset and see what's going on in there.

    Personally, I'd be disinclined to do this. Fit specs are often very tight-tolerance, so unless you're set up to ream and hone too, and you can get really good concentricity, I see a lot of ways for this to work out poorly. I'd be more inclined to make an adapter or my own bearing arrangement.
    Good try Man. This bird is gonna fly. There's no stopping this kid.
    How can anyone who's been riding as long as I have, be so slow???

  12. #37
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    Quote Originally Posted by Danielmessem View Post
    The tolerance is tight, but 0.05mm is ok on a mill

    The 44mm I'm refering to is the ID of the headtube lower
    Are you ever planning on selling this frame after you make chips? Are you going to disclose that you hacked up this frame on your lunch hour at work?

    Like I said at the start of this thread, I understand what you are trying to do, I just don't understand why?
    How can anyone who's been riding as long as I have, be so slow???

  13. #38
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    Would not sell the frame, and if I did would fully disclose

    So the idea is to fit a zero stack / internal headset rather than a traditional / cup one

  14. #39
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    OP, the company did not lie, the HT is a tapered capable one, just not an internally capable one, but an external 44 cup will allow the use of a tapered steerer fork, which you seem dead set against. Looking at your pics it does look like the HT is very thick and it's very possible what you say about it coming bored 2 different ways from the factory, still I wouldn't go doing it myself, not with the tolerances and alignment needed or end up having it not line up with the upper cup and not without confirmation from the manufacturers or consulting a reputable frame builder.

    I observed a similar occurrence the other day on a straight steerer Reba fork, it has the crown the size that would fit a 1.5" steerer, so was also wondering if to save cost they only produce one size crown, designed to fit a 1.5" steerer and just machine to suit what steerer is being pressed in. Sure does make it not look so funny if you had a straight HT frame and one of these forks and then bought a frame with tapered HT, but didn't want to buy a new fork.
    One day your life will flash before your eyes, will it be worth watching??
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  15. #40
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    Not as fun and might give you fewer options for thr fork down the road, but you might get the height you want with an external lower cup, cutting the steerer tube down and using a stem with a low stack height? I think riders go for these lower height stems when the st is too short, but it might also get you close to where you want to be.

    Low Stack Stems

  16. #41
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    Re: Boring a Tapered headtube bottom flange to taper?

    Good call. Adding 8mm under the headtube will slack the head angle out less than .5 degree. Take out one spacer under the stem & call it done.
    No moss...

  17. #42
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    Just knock out the bottom cup and put in new cup for a tapered steerer. No need to bore the frame. The bottom cup that is currently in your frame is designed to adapt a tapered steering tube to a straight steerer. You just need a Cane Creek ZS56 lower headset and crown race.

  18. #43
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    No, that is not what he needs, if he got a ZS56 (ZS stands for zero stack) he would need a HT designed for a fully internal cup to run a 1.5" steerer, which this isn't, what he needs is the EC44 lower cup or the EC49 depends on how it's currently bored.
    Quote Originally Posted by JB51 View Post
    Just knock out the bottom cup and put in new cup for a tapered steerer. No need to bore the frame. The bottom cup that is currently in your frame is designed to adapt a tapered steering tube to a straight steerer. You just need a Cane Creek ZS56 lower headset and crown race.
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  19. #44
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    If you have the ability and experience to machine the headtube, you should be able to best answer this by yourself taking a few simple measurements. If you can't make this call by yourself, then you shouldn't be attempting it.

    I modified a carbon road frame from an english threaded bottom bracket, to PF30 on a milling machine, and it works perfectly fine. No different than a factory designed frame. It didn't require multiple internet opinions.
    It's either possible or it isn't. A dial caliper doesn't lie.

  20. #45
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    Quote Originally Posted by turbogrover View Post
    If you have the ability and experience to machine the headtube, you should be able to best answer this by yourself taking a few simple measurements. If you can't make this call by yourself, then you shouldn't be attempting it.

    I modified a carbon road frame from an english threaded bottom bracket, to PF30 on a milling machine, and it works perfectly fine. No different than a factory designed frame. It didn't require multiple internet opinions.
    It's either possible or it isn't. A dial caliper doesn't lie.
    Correct you are!
    Posted this hoping that someone else had done something simular, and now I have the answer.
    Also wanted to find out if there are considerations or assumptions which I was forgetting, which there were none, although I will certainly be taking more time for this operarion on the mill.

    Will order a 54mm zs bottom cup today, and bore sometime next week - I will post the results here, accepting that there are risks, and treating this as an experimental hack

  21. #46
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    Quote Originally Posted by LyNx View Post
    No, that is not what he needs, if he got a ZS56 (ZS stands for zero stack) he would need a HT designed for a fully internal cup to run a 1.5" steerer, which this isn't, what he needs is the EC44 lower cup or the EC49 depends on how it's currently bored.
    Scott tapered head tubes take 54mm not 56mm bottom ZS cups

  22. #47
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    Do they actually use a cup, or do they do the drop in Campy style headset? Can't think I'd want balls any smaller than in a normal headset and with a cupped 54mm you'd have to reduce ball size for it to work unless it is a drop in one. Have had ZERO luck with these new Campy style drop in headsets, just don't seem to have good enough seals or maybe it's SpecialED using inferior ones, but have had 5 go on them and 3 Giants with ZS tapered lowers.

    Quote Originally Posted by Danielmessem View Post
    Scott tapered head tubes take 54mm not 56mm bottom ZS cups
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  23. #48
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    Quote Originally Posted by LyNx View Post
    Do they actually use a cup, or do they do the drop in Campy style headset? Can't think I'd want balls any smaller than in a normal headset and with a cupped 54mm you'd have to reduce ball size for it to work unless it is a drop in one. Have had ZERO luck with these new Campy style drop in headsets, just don't seem to have good enough seals or maybe it's SpecialED using inferior ones, but have had 5 go on them and 3 Giants with ZS tapered lowers.
    They use a cup, just a slightly different size, hope sell both sizes of bottom cup

  24. #49
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    I keep expecting to check this thread and see pictures of the frame on a mill followed by a picture of it all assembled with the new tapered fork, but so far all I see is a lot of talk... I say do it and post pictures or let the thread die.

  25. #50
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    Quote Originally Posted by BobbyWilliams View Post
    I keep expecting to check this thread and see pictures of the frame on a mill followed by a picture of it all assembled with the new tapered fork, but so far all I see is a lot of talk... I say do it and post pictures or let the thread die.
    Will do it and post pics as soon as its all setup - hopefully this week, but thats dependent on the boring bars arriving

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