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  1. #1
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    e thirteen srs+ 32t chainguide with 33t chainring or bigger = possible?

    Simple question:

    Can you put a bigger chainring than the chainguide is design for?

    In my case I have a 32t e.thirteen chainguide but I want to put a bigger chainring. I can see that there is some more room (millimetres) in there to put a 33t or even a 34t chainring considering that between a 32t and a 33t chainring there is only half a centimeter diameter difference. I was just wondering if someone have ever done something like that?

    I just don't want to buy the chainring and find out this is not possible.



    ''Thatís right, I am. But we all well know that the reason that most of us are here is because of ourÖ affinity for disobedience''. -Morpheus
    Last edited by CHINOTAKER; 12-06-2012 at 05:11 PM. Reason: change question

  2. #2
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    pictures



    I can see half a centimeter gap there ....




    I can file this one to get more room ....




    plenty of clearance here.

  3. #3
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    If I am looking at this correctly, you are judging the gap between the bash guard and the chain guide. Isn't it set up like a standard bash guard where it is mounted to the third chain ring position? If so, you would be switching out your second chain ring so the space between the bash guard and guide would remain unchanged.

    **NOTE** I don't have a chain guide set-up so if I am way off base, sorry.
    Apathy will get you exactly what you deserve

  4. #4
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    I was actually talking about the distance between the chain and the top retainer. Like in the first picture
    Last edited by CHINOTAKER; 11-26-2012 at 06:22 PM. Reason: change my mind

  5. #5
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    Come on really?!?!?!?!

    Come on guys are you going to tell me that no one bought a chainguide (any size actually) and put a bigger chainring than specs?

    Do I have to be the first one to try?

    Also have anyone explain why single (specific) chainrings are better than the ones than comes with the cranks? I know they have bigger teeth but any other advantage?

  6. #6
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    I'm not sure how close different manufacturers make the chainguide to the size of the chainring.

    I just installed this bashguard that I made to just barely clear a 32T ring. I installed it with a 33T chainring and you can see the chain exposed slightly.



    So, how much extra room is there with the 32T ring? It looks like you will have clearance issues at the top of the guide.

  7. #7
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    Dude this bashguard really looks badass!!!

    about the chainring the more I think about it the more I think it might be a bad idea. I am exploring the option of getting a shorter crank arm to get the same effect. Also I like to roll with a low seat

  8. #8
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    I think I already commented in another thread...but I love your bash, kinda mean looking:thumbup:

  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by CHINOTAKER View Post
    Come on guys are you going to tell me that no one bought a chainguide (any size actually) and put a bigger chainring than specs?

    Do I have to be the first one to try?

    Also have anyone explain why single (specific) chainrings are better than the ones than comes with the cranks? I know they have bigger teeth but any other advantage?
    Chainrings on a typical triple front crankset have ramps and pins which are designed to allow easier front shifting. That means that the chain can more easily move off of the chainring to the next one. This is not desirable behavior if the front chainring is a single.

  10. #10
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    Chainrings on a typical triple front crankset have ramps and pins which are designed to allow easier front shifting. That means that the chain can more easily move off of the chainring to the next one. This is not desirable behavior if the front chainring is a single.
    But will I notice any difference?

  11. #11
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    I'll take a shot...

    C: circumference, measured in the unit Teeth, T, which if you want to measure in real life would be roughly the distance from the tip of one tooth to the next. I think this may even be a bicycle standard, like 0.5 in.?

    r: the radius of the chainring. This is important because the difference in the radius from the 32T chainring to the 33T is how much clearance to the upper guide you will lose.

    P: pi, ~3.14

    C1= 32T
    C2 = 33T

    Cdifference = C2 - C1 = 33T - 32T = 1T. The difference in circumference is 1 tooth, obviously.

    C = 2Pr, formula for circumference given a radius r
    Cdifference = 2Prdifference

    Solve for rdifference

    r = C/(2P)

    Substitute 1T (one tooth) for the Cdifference and 3.14 for P

    r = 1T/6.28.

    You will need one tooth divided by 6.28 extra clearance, because that is how much bigger the 33T ring will be.

    If 1T = 0.5 in. = 12.7 mm

    Then 12.7/6.28 = 2.02 mm reduced clearance

    I honestly started off wanting to help, but now I'm not sure I'm not trolling. Good luck!

  12. #12
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    i've got a 34 on an e-13 something or another made for a 32 and haven't had any issues. been running it for years as well...


  13. #13
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    really..?

    i've got a 34 on an e-13 something or another made for a 32 and haven't had any issues. been running it for years as well...
    really???? finally some light at the end of the tunnel!!!

    can you send some pics please?
    Last edited by CHINOTAKER; 12-04-2012 at 02:38 PM. Reason: spell

  14. #14
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    C: circumference, measured in the unit Teeth, T, which if you want to measure in real life would be roughly the distance from the tip of one tooth to the next. I think this may even be a bicycle standard, like 0.5 in.?

    r: the radius of the chainring. This is important because the difference in the radius from the 32T chainring to the 33T is how much clearance to the upper guide you will lose.

    P: pi, ~3.14

    C1= 32T
    C2 = 33T

    Cdifference = C2 - C1 = 33T - 32T = 1T. The difference in circumference is 1 tooth, obviously.

    C = 2Pr, formula for circumference given a radius r
    Cdifference = 2Prdifference

    Solve for rdifference

    r = C/(2P)

    Substitute 1T (one tooth) for the Cdifference and 3.14 for P

    r = 1T/6.28.

    You will need one tooth divided by 6.28 extra clearance, because that is how much bigger the 33T ring will be.

    If 1T = 0.5 in. = 12.7 mm

    Then 12.7/6.28 = 2.02 mm reduced clearance

    I honestly started off wanting to help, but now I'm not sure I'm not trolling. Good luck!
    awesome job man! but still confused

  15. #15
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    Quote Originally Posted by CHINOTAKER View Post
    awesome job man! but still confused
    If the math is right (and I think it is), then the 33T chainring will be about 2 mm closer to the upper guide. You said in the first post that it looked like about 5 mm clearance to the upper guide. So I think it will fit.

  16. #16
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    I just did it IT IS POSSIBLE !!!!

    I think even a 34 tooth chainring would be possible now because the increment is really tinny. It would only rub when the big ring is engaged in the back but that little bit will worn out with time (I mean in the top retainer) . With the 33 tooth chainring there is a millimetric space free in the big ring but they don't touch at all.




    For all the haters just keep doing what the marketing people say to sell you stuff ...

  17. #17
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    Quote Originally Posted by CHINOTAKER View Post
    really???? finally some light at the end of the tunnel!!!

    can you send some pics please?
    sorry, i didn't see this before, but you've obviously found out that it, in fact, does work...


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