Page 1 of 2 1 2 LastLast
Results 1 to 25 of 26
  1. #1
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    May 2013
    Posts
    37

    2000 Gary Fisher $200 I think I found a keeper

    I found a "2000 specialized Hardrock Comp A1" FS on craigslist for $150. From the pictures it seems to be in good condition, however the owner doesn't seem to know what size frame it has. He lives 45mins away from me so unfortunately it wouldn't make sense to just go check it out unless I'm ready to buy it. He says it rides good and shifts good and has no problems.

    Now to give you guys some helpfully background info. I'm 25, 5'11, and have been researching buying my first "real" bike for about a month now. The last bike I had was a full suspension huffy when I was 16, I know. I'm looking for a bike I could use to get around campus as well as the occasional trail riding. I've never been trail riding but it sure looks fun, better late then never i guess. I was this close from buying a schwinn from wallmart because I quickly realized I couldn't afford any entry level mountain bikes from my LBS( Giant revel 29er, trek 3500, specialized hardrock ect...), but I figured I'd check craigslist first. So what do you guys think?

    BTW, I know a bike from wallmart is breaking the first commandment around here but I honestly would rather have a wallyworld bike I could get started on riding now, then to wait until I saved up enough for a "decent" bike. Besides IDK how long a beautiful Giant 29er would last at my campus....
    Last edited by EricBE2013; 05-13-2013 at 06:34 AM.

  2. #2
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    May 2013
    Posts
    37
    Removed.
    Last edited by EricBE2013; 05-10-2013 at 04:02 PM.

  3. #3
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jan 2013
    Posts
    321
    Ask him to measure the seat tube between the top where the seatpost comes out and the bottom bracket where the cranks/chainrings connect to the bike. That will tell you size. At 5'11" you could probably fit on a 17" frame but a 19" frame would be better.

    If the bike is in very good shape -- no wear and tear on the chains or tires, good shifting, etc. -- then it is a fair price IMO.

    Good idea to look on Craigslist.

    JUST SAW THE PICS: Is that a lot of rust on the two stem screws? Not a deal breaker, but it would make me suspicious about how the bike was maintained.

  4. #4
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    May 2013
    Posts
    37
    Pictures removed.

  5. #5
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    May 2013
    Posts
    37
    Quote Originally Posted by Gregon2wheels View Post
    Ask him to measure the seat tube between the top where the seatpost comes out and the bottom bracket where the cranks/chainrings connect to the bike. That will tell you size. At 5'11" you could probably fit on a 17" frame but a 19" frame would be better.

    If the bike is in very good shape -- no wear and tear on the chains or tires, good shifting, etc. -- then it is a fair price IMO.

    Good idea to look on Craigslist.

    JUST SAW THE PICS: Is that a lot of rust on the two stem screws? Not a deal breaker, but it would make me suspicious about how the bike was maintained.
    Thanks for quick reply! He measured and he said 21", would that be too big? Also good eye, it looks like it is rusty... I also just noticed the front wheel isn't a quick release, which sucks because I have a hatch and know for sure I would have to remove the wheel for it to fit( dont have bike rack money yet)

  6. #6
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jan 2013
    Posts
    1,345
    Quote Originally Posted by EricBE2013 View Post
    Thanks for quick reply! He measured and he said 21", would that be too big? Also good eye, it looks like it is rusty... I also just noticed the front wheel isn't a quick release, which sucks because I have a hatch and know for sure I would have to remove the wheel for it to fit( dont have bike rack money yet)
    Well, for it's price those problems are nothing. Seems like a good deal to me...

  7. #7
    Diggity Dog
    Reputation: ShinDiggity's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2010
    Posts
    414
    Quote Originally Posted by EricBE2013 View Post
    Thanks for quick reply! He measured and he said 21", would that be too big? Also good eye, it looks like it is rusty... I also just noticed the front wheel isn't a quick release, which sucks because I have a hatch and know for sure I would have to remove the wheel for it to fit( dont have bike rack money yet)
    21" would be too big for someone 5'11". If the front wheel is a bolt on then it is a replacement.

  8. #8
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    May 2013
    Posts
    37
    Quote Originally Posted by OhGee View Post
    21" would be too big for someone 5'11". If the front wheel is a bolt on then it is a replacement.
    I figured, well that sucks. Well I did find a 2011 Trek 3500 18" also for $140. But the owner said it has been sitting for the past year and has a rusty chain... bike is an hour away, worth the drive?

  9. #9
    Diggity Dog
    Reputation: ShinDiggity's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2010
    Posts
    414
    That's quite a bit of rust. Very well might need new chain and cassette. What else it might need you won't know until inspection. Plan on at least $100 worth of work. Storing a bike outside can really hurt the value. Proceed with caution.

  10. #10
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jan 2013
    Posts
    151
    That Trek looks like its going to need work. Looks like you have rust issues plus looking at the rear wheel it looks like the valve is crooked. Sure sign the tires were flat. Check the tires for dry rot issues. New chain and tuneup maybe tubes and tires your looking at over a $100.

  11. #11
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jan 2013
    Posts
    321
    Jeez, entry level bike prices in NYC are ridiculous! I looked at your profile, and I think that's where you are. People are asking $150 for a bike with no rear wheel! Another wanted $225 for a bike with no front wheel and no seat!

    If this is in perfect shape, it's only a little expensive. It's old. Definitely negotiate.
    ☮ TREK 820 Mountain Bike 18" Frame - WILL DELIVER- (credit cards ok!)

    This is expensive, but maybe he'll negotiate. Looks decent, but it's old.
    Specialized Hardrock Sport - and other bikes for streets of New York

    Do any LBSs near you have a for sale corkboard? That might be a good place to start. If you are a student, someone should be trying to sell their bike right about now.

    Watch eBay, too.

    Good luck.

  12. #12
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    May 2013
    Posts
    37
    Quote Originally Posted by Gregon2wheels View Post
    Jeez, entry level bike prices in NYC are ridiculous! I looked at your profile, and I think that's where you are. People are asking $150 for a bike with no rear wheel! Another wanted $225 for a bike with no front wheel and no seat!

    If this is in perfect shape, it's only a little expensive. It's old. Definitely negotiate.
    ☮ TREK 820 Mountain Bike 18" Frame - WILL DELIVER- (credit cards ok!)

    This is expensive, but maybe he'll negotiate. Looks decent, but it's old.
    Specialized Hardrock Sport - and other bikes for streets of New York

    Do any LBSs near you have a for sale corkboard? That might be a good place to start. If you are a student, someone should be trying to sell their bike right about now.

    Watch eBay, too.

    Good luck.

    Thanks for the help! but I would really like a bike with front shocks. I'll be on the look out around campus for any FS signs.

  13. #13
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    May 2013
    Posts
    37
    Quote Originally Posted by Nods Dad View Post
    That Trek looks like its going to need work. Looks like you have rust issues plus looking at the rear wheel it looks like the valve is crooked. Sure sign the tires were flat. Check the tires for dry rot issues. New chain and tuneup maybe tubes and tires your looking at over a $100.
    Hmm if what you and OhGee are saying is true, I'm probably better off expanding my budget a little more to get a bike in better condition. Thanks for all the help guys the search continues...

  14. #14
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    May 2013
    Posts
    37
    Just found a 2009 Trek 3700 for $175. Research seems to show its a decent beginner bike that many wish had a bit more suspension travel. Is this a good deal for $175? owner says no cracks or rust or damage of any kind.
    Last edited by EricBE2013; 05-11-2013 at 09:25 AM.

  15. #15
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    May 2013
    Posts
    37
    I also found a 2006 Trek 3700 18" frame for $140. Specs wise its very similar to the 2009 above (which i got the price down on the 2009 to $175 BTW) but I did notice the 2009 lists its headset as 1 1/8" thread less where as the 2006 shows "Aheadset Slimstak". Also the 2006 has a RST fork vs 2009 Suntour, and 2009-Alpha white aluminum vs just aluminum in the 2006. What do you guys think, I'm leaning towards the 2006 and saving the $35 since it seems to be basically the same bike?

  16. #16
    mtbr member
    Reputation: J.B. Weld's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2012
    Posts
    2,647
    Those aren't great pictures but both of them, especially the bottom one, look like they have led pretty hard lives. If maintenance has been neglected (likely) then just getting the basics in order can quickly exceed their value.

    There is really no substitute for seeing them in person and checking out their condition. Drivetrain wear is a good indicator.

  17. #17
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    May 2013
    Posts
    37
    I'm a complete newbie and will be checking out these bikes in person later, what exactly should I be looking for?

  18. #18
    mtbr member
    Reputation: J.B. Weld's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2012
    Posts
    2,647
    The first thing I look at is the general condition and how the owner took care of it. On the red one I can see that the chain has jammed in between the chainring and the chain stay, probably damaging the chain. The pedal bearing cap is missing on the R pedal and the paint is pretty beat up and weathered looking.

    The second thing I do is measure the chain and look at drivetrain wear. A new chain will measure exactly 12 inches from dead center of one pin to dead center of another, anything beyond 1/16th inch over this indicates trouble. People commonly neglect the drivetrain and when they do so for too long it necessitates the replacement of all the drivetrain components instead of just the chain.

    Finally I would check the bearings (should roll smooth with little noise and no side play), trueness of the wheels (check for loose or damaged spokes), brakes, gears, etc. Test ride it.


    I've just seen too many bikes like that that have lived their whole lives indoors, obviously never ridden and in basically new condition for me to be chomping at the bit for either one of those, based on the pictures anyway.

  19. #19
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    May 2013
    Posts
    37
    Quote Originally Posted by J.B. Weld View Post
    The first thing I look at is the general condition and how the owner took care of it. On the red one I can see that the chain has jammed in between the chainring and the chain stay, probably damaging the chain. The pedal bearing cap is missing on the R pedal and the paint is pretty beat up and weathered looking.

    The second thing I do is measure the chain and look at drivetrain wear. A new chain will measure exactly 12 inches from dead center of one pin to dead center of another, anything beyond 1/16th inch over this indicates trouble. People commonly neglect the drivetrain and when they do so for too long it necessitates the replacement of all the drivetrain components instead of just the chain.

    Finally I would check the bearings (should roll smooth with little noise and no side play), trueness of the wheels (check for loose or damaged spokes), brakes, gears, etc. Test ride it.


    I've just seen too many bikes like that that have lived their whole lives indoors, obviously never ridden and in basically new condition for me to be chomping at the bit for either one of those, based on the pictures anyway.
    So I checked out the 2006 Trek and you were right on the money, It was in rough shape not even worth my time. Lesson learned.

  20. #20
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    May 2013
    Posts
    37
    Here is a 2006 Trek 4300 18" for $225 firm and is willing to meet me halfway(hour drive for each of us). Says he has the bikes original paper work and manual. This is the absolute top of my budget and only worth my time/driving if you guys think its a good deal.

  21. #21
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Aug 2008
    Posts
    1,875
    Looks pretty good ,seems over priced tho,check bikepedia for prices .I'd wonder about the routing of the computer wire. I think those were around 500$new.

  22. #22
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jan 2013
    Posts
    321
    Looks better than the other bikes you've seen. Anywhere else, I would agree with Ranger Rider Dave, but seeing other NYC Craigslist ads, it looks in the ball park.

    Worth looking at. Look for rust. Make sure it shifts well. Make sure tires aren't cracked.

    JB Weld has good advice for inspection.

  23. #23
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    May 2013
    Posts
    37
    2000 Gary Fisher Tassajara in "excellent original condition, garage kept" $200 The only thing I'm worried about is the reliability of these 13 year old parts. I did read somewhere that Manitou offers a fork upgrade program.

  24. #24
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jan 2013
    Posts
    321
    Quote Originally Posted by EricBE2013 View Post
    2000 Gary Fisher Tassajara in "excellent original condition, garage kept" $200 The only thing I'm worried about is the reliability of these 13 year old parts. I did read somewhere that Manitou offers a fork upgrade program.
    Age is less important than miles and maintenance. I have a 17 year old mountain bike with (mostly) 13 year old components that rides great. Shifts fine. Brakes well. Of course, none of the cables, chain, pads, or cassette are 13 years old. I'd still be riding it if my 40 year old body could handle the aggressive mid-90s riding position.

    Heck, I thought about trying to sell it to you, but you're about 3" too tall and about 1500 miles too far away.

    No fork on a $200 bike will be great. Buy the bike in front of you and not the bike it could be with upgrades.

    What happened to the Trek 4300? You need to look at these bikes as they show up and not wonder about the next one to come along. If one in front of you is rust free and in good shape, then buy it and STOP LOOKING.

  25. #25
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    May 2013
    Posts
    37
    Quote Originally Posted by Gregon2wheels View Post
    Age is less important than miles and maintenance. I have a 17 year old mountain bike with (mostly) 13 year old components that rides great. Shifts fine. Brakes well. Of course, none of the cables, chain, pads, or cassette are 13 years old. I'd still be riding it if my 40 year old body could handle the aggressive mid-90s riding position.

    Heck, I thought about trying to sell it to you, but you're about 3" too tall and about 1500 miles too far away.

    No fork on a $200 bike will be great. Buy the bike in front of you and not the bike it could be with upgrades.

    What happened to the Trek 4300? You need to look at these bikes as they show up and not wonder about the next one to come along. If one in front of you is rust free and in good shape, then buy it and STOP LOOKING.

    Trek 4300 sold (buyer was local to the seller). The two bikes I have looked at I passed on because of rust/damage. So I have yet to see a bike without rust. My real dilemma is finding a good bike locally, because all the bikes that appear clean/maintained have all been at least 45min-2 hours away. If I'm going to travel that distance for a $200 dollar bike it better be a dam good one, or at least a good deal. Which is why I post all my findings here to hear your opinions on the deal. The good news about this whole process is I'm getting the hang of judging these deals for myself and I have a feeling I will have a bike soon!

Page 1 of 2 1 2 LastLast

Similar Threads

  1. 2010 Specialized Hardrock Sport worth upgrading?
    By 00ChevyScott in forum Specialized
    Replies: 15
    Last Post: 08-23-2012, 07:40 AM
  2. Is a 2004 26" Specialized Hardrock worth $200?
    By cdj588 in forum 27.5 - 650b
    Replies: 1
    Last Post: 07-17-2012, 01:46 PM
  3. What's a 2008 specialized comp stumpjumper worth?
    By DBLDEE20 in forum All Mountain
    Replies: 7
    Last Post: 05-24-2012, 07:38 PM
  4. 2000 RM Vertex worth?
    By w98seeng in forum Rocky Mountain
    Replies: 10
    Last Post: 11-03-2011, 05:52 PM
  5. 2000 Mantra Comp
    By bhyman1088 in forum All Mountain
    Replies: 2
    Last Post: 10-02-2011, 02:05 AM

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •